# Clone with Chinese tubes



## Darwins Child (Sep 30, 2021)

Yesterday evening I received a Chinese clone of an American-designed slingshot that most people here will probably recognize. The unit came with one 1mm flat band and what is I believe what one calls a double loop of what I think is 1745 tube, with an active length of approximately 6-3/4". 









As you can see, I decided on a TTF set-up (with tubes held securely in place by clips on the target-side of the fork) that is really close to the top of the forks. (This was my first experience shooting a TTF.)

My length of pull is roughly 33+" , so 33 divided by 6.75 is approximately 4.9 times the active length of the FOUR tubes. 

This was the very first time that I had experienced tubes, let alone a double loop, and, in short, YIKES!

The long story is that the force required for my fingers to pull back the pouch/ball is far more that my fingers are capable of pulling and holding without spreading apart (I think, but my life didn't depend on it, so I really don't know for sure). To do the job I used a release device, and I also had to put my left holding-hand's thumb on the lower, angled inner surface of the fork, rather than use my usual wrap-around grip, which I found impossible to employ on this occasion. 

Unlike flat bands which require minimal force at first and then build evenly, I found that the effort required to stretch the tubes started off pretty hard and only got harder the longer the stretch. My left thumb and the bottom of my forefinger were easily able to withstand the force of the pull.

Frankly, I did not dare use a 3/8" steel ball for fear that it would severely damage my thumb if the ball's route of flight didn't go according to plan and it made an unanticipated crash-landing on my thumb. The clays were propelled by the tubes PDQ, but I would think that this kind of set-up would be ideal for hunting or pulverizing whatever with large steel balls. 

Contrary to what I expected, after locking my left arm, I found that it was easier to keep the frame on target than it is with an easier pull. But regardless of this, I found this set-up less than pleasant to shoot. To enjoy it more I would have to figure out some kind of effective armor to protect my thumb.

But back to the tubes. 

If I had some kind of spring scale, I would meaure the force required to draw the pouch back to my length of pull, but I don't. Do any of you tube experts have a good idea what the theoretical pull would be with the above statistics?

Thanks.


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## Reed Lukens (Aug 16, 2020)

I would take that tube, untie it and then tie a 3" loop on one end with the rest of the tube used as a single strand back to the pouch on both sides. It will be a comfortable shooter this way.


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## Valery (Jan 2, 2020)

Reed correctly wrote, those Chinese loops that come with slings are usually very short, so they are uncomfortable to use. It's better to convert them to pseudo cones right away.


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## ukj (Jan 10, 2021)

Why not use the hole for the screw clip to thru attach looped tubes, if I am not mistaken its made for?
And as much as I treid to like tubes can and could not, they feel slow and combersome, I tested many 2040 setups, single, looped, double loops, different draw ratios, never felt as good as bands.
Does anyone use tubes in world class competions? 
All the vids I have seen shoot bands.
Imho flat bands win out in most all
Ways except longevity.
Got 4 of those copy hdpe frames, after mods enjoy them a lot, with bands.
May I suggest drilling a hole in handle bottom for lanyard saftey.
Besides being ergo,strong and light, this frame can accept thru hole looped tubes, Ttf and ott, maybe why is one of the most shot frames.
ukj


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## Valery (Jan 2, 2020)

ukj said:


> May I suggest drilling a hole in handle bottom for lanyard saftey.


There is a hole in the handle for the knob.


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## KawKan (May 11, 2013)

My approach would be much like @Reed Lukens , but I'd probably use 1 inch loops and start with a tie-to-tie length of about 8 or 9 inches. Should be plenty of power for plinking with 3/8 steel. I always have a couple of tube set-ups in my rotation. Usually light tubes, and usually butterfly.


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## MOJAVE MO (Apr 11, 2018)

I avoid anything cloned. Always. I got burned buying a bottle of Cloned Canadian Maple Syrup out of Mexico a few years back. It tasted like boiled bandages but at least I saved $11usd. Seriously though. If there is an inclusion in that cloned fork and it snaps and rips your ear off who are you gonna call? Are you gonna ask Dr. Clone (who is really a Vet Dentist) to sew your ear back on? Summary: I don’t work for Simple-Shot but I do support companies that own their intellectual property and invest back into the slingshot forum and the slingshot community.


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## Darwins Child (Sep 30, 2021)

Reed Lukens said:


> I would take that tube, untie it and then tie a 3" loop on one end with the rest of the tube used as a single strand back to the pouch on both sides. It will be a comfortable shooter this way.


Is the following what you had in mind?









If it is, here are some dimensions. 
Overall length of each looped tube (after it is unlooped) is 14.5"
Circumference of a 3" circle is approximately 9.4". 
Therefore, after the new 3" circle is formed, there will be 14.5 minus 9.4 equals 5.1" of single-tube length remaining. 

In the above photo there is about 5" from my fingers to the joint, and approximately 9-1/4" from the top inside corner of the fork to the phony scotch tape "half-pouch" that I am holding. Therefore there is apporximately 4 inches of tube from the union to the top inside corner of the fork. 

In the prsent arrangement the distance from the top inside corner of the fork to the tie-end of the pouch is approximately 7". 

I assume that the 5" length of single tube to the union is going to pull "twice as easy" as the two lengths of tube from the union to the fork. 

I think that the new arrangement will indeed be much easier to pull back. However, here's the present pouch:









The two ends of each loop go through separate holes in each end of the pouch and then the two ends are tied together, rather than separately. If I go with the new arrangement, in order to have the pouch work evenly, am I going to have to, essentially, make a tiny loop in the tube where it enters the pouch? Put differently, will I have to pass the tube through one hole, then loop around, pass it back through the other hole, then tie the end of the tube to itself (and by so doing form a small loop at the pouch? Now that I think about it, when one ties flat band to the pouch one effective creates a loop, so I guess this would not be that much different, but maybe I'm missing something. (While I'm on the pouch, it seems to me that the pouch was installed with the rough side of the "leather" oriented the wrong way. If I grab the rough side, the ends of the tubes might interfere with ball travel. What do you think?)

In response to ukg's question about going through the empty hole with the folded tube and then pulling the fold over the fork and shooting. I tried this process, but the result was much shorter tubes (more length devoted to making the journey around the fork, etc.). The way shown in the original photo maximizes available length of tube. 

There is indeed a hole in the handle for a lanyard. 

So far I like the unit very much, especially its size compared to the tiny SS unit that I own.









Thanks.


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## Darwins Child (Sep 30, 2021)

I guuess what I need to do is make what is referred to in slingshot-jargon as a "pseudo-taper". (Why not use narrow strips of latex band to tie instead of string? Wouldn't that be the best of all methods described in the video?)


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## Reed Lukens (Aug 16, 2020)

Looks like you have it dialed 😀


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## KawKan (May 11, 2013)

I like latex strips or amber belt for securing tube loops (pseudo or not). For me, they fight slippage better than string. I due use a constrictor hitch on most of my pouches, although I have used the amber belt there recently also.


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