# Question: To The Effective Hunting Setup...



## badger (Jan 24, 2011)

hey guys,
i have one question...

in august i will go to the uk to visit a friend. and i would like to do some slingshot hunting over there, because my buddy has a big farm with a lot of rabbits, doves...

i don´t know why but i'm the most accurate with 9.5mm (3/8'') steel, normaly i shoot a tapered tbg setup for that which will not last extremly long, thats why i would like to try some tubes on the catty i will take hunting.

could you help me with the dankung tubes? which one should i buy to get a good single tube per side hunting setup?! i'm not using a dankung style slingshot, i only shoot naturals thats why i dont like to use multiple tubes per side...

thanks
badger


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

have you tried looped tubing, or pseudo tapers, single tubes are great, but for hunting you might want the added power of the additional tubing.


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## akmslingshots (Mar 2, 2012)

other guys no better but i have had good results with looped 1745's, if tied to the fork properly you don't notice there is 2 strands on each side at all and thats with 9.5mm steel and .38 cal lead


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## badger (Jan 24, 2011)

i have never really tried tubes before... only different kinds of flatbands, because my prefered catty is an over-the-top shooter.
i want to setup the tubes in an over-the-top-style too, by adding groves to the tip of the forkends in which the tubes will rest during the stretch.
i think chaines or some sort of tapering technic will become quiet difficult in an over-the-top fashion... but as i said i've never really tried it before.

do you think gipsy style attachment behaves like over-the-top? maybe that would be an option?!


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

I strongly second the suggestion of using 1745 tubes in a half-doubled configuration (what is called pseudo-tapered). Yep, Gypsy tabs for half-doubled tubes would work. But if you pull the end of the doubled part through a larger diameter tube, you can tie the half doubled tubes in an over the top configuration just like normal flat bands. Here is a photo:










If you do not use the short section of larger diameter tube, the 1745s will pull out of the ties, no matter how tightly you tie them. But with that short piece of larger diameter tube, they do not pull out. And the larger diameter tube will help to prevent abraision of the 1745s where they come across the fork tips. Here is another photo with contrasting colors to help illustrate the point.










With 3/8 steel or lead, those pseudo-tapered tubes give a lot of speed. I even use them with my hunting slugs, which weigh 140 grains. Personally, I would use the heavier ammo for rabbits. If you opt for the lighter ammo, take head shots only, and be prepared to run up on your downed game and dispatch it by hand if need be.

Cheers ...... Charles


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## whipcrackdeadbunny (May 22, 2010)

I use Tb singles non-tapered all the time, I get about 500 shots with my 9.5 steels, that should be plenty; it's the taper that makes it break quickly (as well as the draw length; if you fully extend every time, you'll get a lesser amount of shots) Have a look at my hunting vids in the hunting set-ups thread, it's exactly what you're talking about.


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## badger (Jan 24, 2011)

I have allready watched your vids...








Yes, as i said i normally use tbg too, but i would like to try tubes on my hunting catty. i think i will order some 1745 tubing an experiment with an pseudo tapering setup...
to which length would you cut the tubing? my draw is around 80cm (31.5'') and how long should be the second short band?
if you would compare the tuping with tbg, which dimensions would the tbg have to get the same power?


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## whipcrackdeadbunny (May 22, 2010)

badger said:


> I have allready watched your vids...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ok; I can't get exact comparisons I'm afraid, but I suggest you just take a length of tubing and stretch it until you find a length you like. And the 'tapered' tubes, I just curl one end round, tie it to the main stem. Try it, should be fine, but I can't tell you the exact details I'm afraid.


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## Berkshire bred (Mar 4, 2012)

why dont you just make a bandset that lasts and then take a few spare sets with you?


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## whipcrackdeadbunny (May 22, 2010)

Berkshire bred said:


> why dont you just make a bandset that lasts and then take a few spare sets with you?


hehehe


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

I know there is a lot to go through, but most, if not all, of your questions about tubes will be answered in this thread:

http://slingshotforum.com/topic/13242-testing-chinese-tubes

If you take the time to read through the results of Tex's tests, you will be MUCH further ahead.

Cheers ..... Charles


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## Performance Catapults (Feb 3, 2010)

2040 looped tubes will spit 3/8" steel fast enough to humanely harvest small game. Trust me, I know! The pull weight is around 11 - 13 lbs. I have chrony'd the speeds, and 2040 shoots 3/8" steel faster than 1842's, that pull at 15+lbs. The warmer the ambient temp, the better. The results will not be the same in cold weather however.


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## badger (Jan 24, 2011)

@charles: I have now read the whole thread you mentioned... but there's one thing i didn't get out of the thread.
Is there a general rule of how to find the right lenght of unstreched tubing?
Let's say I have 33'' of draw, then divide it by for example 4 and I have the right lenght?!?!

I will try a pseudo taper setup, with a 4:3 ratio, tied to the fork over-the-top-style with a larger tubing around the 1745.
But as I said, to realise a 4:3 setup for my draw length I have to know the length of unstreched tubing that I should use... or can I figure it out by taking 1'' of the tubing and strech it to its max?!

I know a lot of questions... sorry guys, that's only because I have never really used tubing....


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

Getting the tubing length just right is a bit of trial and error. Take an uncut length of tube, and hold one end in your fork hand. Grip the tube with your draw hand about 7 inches from your fork hand. Draw to your anchor point. If it feels too tight (it will sort of stop stretching and get hard to pull), then try grasping at about 7.5 or 8 inches. If it pulls easily to your anchor, try grasping it a bit shorter, say 6.5 or even 6 inches. You should be able to narrow things down pretty well this way. Then just figure out how much extra you need to add for the tie at the fork and at the pouch. If you run the doubled tube through a larger diameter tube for the tie at the fork, you can just make the whole band a bit long and try it. If it is too long, you can just re-do the fork tie to make the band a bit shorter, just as you would when dealing with flats.

Cheers ..... Charles


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## badger (Jan 24, 2011)

@charles: allright, cheers buddy. I think I try a single band setup first just to find the right lenght of tubing, then add the pseudo-taper-piece afterwards...

thanks to you all for helping me...


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