# Which slingshot is perfect for a novice?



## Rolex

Criterias:

Suitable for my small hand. Measured across the hand indoor area, including Forefinger and pinky is 3.25 inch or from the tip of the middle finger to the first crease of the wrist, is 7.4 inch. 
Hit accuracy would be great. 
A target device I would appreciate for constant shooting, intuitive shooting is secondary. 
Be used occasionally for hunting. 
Semi-Butterfly shot technique (side shooting style) seems reasonable to me for range and speed. 
Not more expensive than necessary, but quality or beauty can have its price. 
Which slingshot is to choose ?

For target shooting and hunting I intend to use the same ammunition, which ball size is reasonable and which tape should be mounted (bodyforce corresponds to the hand size...) ?


----------



## Individual

Hex nuts are cheap and effective ammo

M8's should take small game easily.

There pretty accurate.

And have less penetration that steel balls.

Steel balls cost more.

If you're in the UK, then drop a forum member named eggy22 a message asking about his prices for 3/8 steel balls.

With double tapered TBG 3/8 steel balls should take small game. I would use lead ammo though, bigger than 3/8 minimum.

However.

As you're a novice, Dont try and hunt until you're almost 99% accurate with power at range.

Only shoot what you will eat... 
I like 3/8 for regular use, But if you wanna make sure its a kill then go for the lead ammo

Now it would be useful if you let us know what type of slingshot you want, You noted side shooting so i would reccomend a hathcock from pocket predator if your in the US

Or spend the extra money for the metal cast from milbro if your in the UK
If you need to know any more i'd be happy to help 

TBG = Thera band gold. I reccomend you also go HERE: http://slingshotforum.com/topic/11772-slingshot-glossary-and-slang/

As we use a lot of different words, You wont learn them all instantly and it will take time and as you talk and read more on here. It will come naturally.

Also with the aiming, Its 95% practice, The more you practice the more accurate you will get 

Oh, and welcome to the forum


----------



## Henry the Hermit

The unaswerable question. What is right for me might not be right for you, or anyone else. Fortunately, slingshots are cheap so it doesn't cost a lot to experiment with different models. I don't recommend the standard Wal-Mart style wrist braced wire frame slingshot, though.

If you can make your own, it gets a lot cheaper, and the Forum has many templates and instructions on how to do so. If you can't, I recommend either a stainless steel model from Dankung or a polymer frame from one of our Vendors. The reason for this is that you will experience fork hits, and either type will survive with minimal damage. It would be a crying shame to spend a big chunk of money on a really nice SS and destroy it with a fork hit. Choose a style that will accept either looped tubes or flats. For novices, I recommend looped 2040 tubes. These perform very well and will last a long time.

Good luck.

http://slingshotforum.com/forum/36-site-vendors-forum/

http://www.dankung.com/emart/dankung-slingshots-c-90.html?zenid=kasnqqsqdtni6g1e0djgfng6b1


----------



## Rolex

Individual said:


> Now it would be useful if you let us know what type of slingshot you want


Hehehe, that's my main question :what:

Slingshots of this type I would like to avoid: how-to-avoid-fork-and-hand-hits

The "Hathcock Target Sniper" seems to be such a dangerous type, or not... and built rather for a big hand,

however there is still the "Pocket Hathcock"... and I like the notch for aiming. Like the appearance of the "SEAL Sniper" too, but the size ...?

The "milbro´s" looks even nicer and the selection is huge...



Henry in Panama said:


> If you can make your own, it gets a lot cheaper, and the Forum has many templates and instructions on how to do so. If you can't, I recommend either a stainless steel model from Dankung or a polymer frame from one of our Vendors. The reason for this is that you will experience fork hits, and either type will survive with minimal damage.


DIY is rather out of the question.

Hmm, fork hits should be considered, therefore no alu from "milbro"...


----------



## Individual

Mibros get pretty expensive, I'm sure if you pm lexlow here on the forum or search for Major slingshot on ebay.co.uk, He'd be happy to sell one to you.

He makes them out of recycled HDPE which is as strong as bricks, I know he does many designs and he may do a custom. Dont take my word though, you'd have to speak to him. I own a hathcock style from him. I know you said you dont like this style but before christmas i was he had 5 or 6 different models up.

If you look in the template forums or if you want me to try and make you something i could send a template.

Just talk to lexlow if you're interested 

To find what style you like, try going to the template section, and printing out a few different styles.

Hammergrip, pinch, side shooter, I wouldn't recommend a PFS for someone new to shooting.

Print them out, and then cut them out on cardboard so you can see if that style feels the most natural.

You may be interested at looking through dankung selection: http://www.dankung.com/emart/dankung-slingshots-c-90.html

Go for a milbro if you want, but dont be surprised by there prices 

Another good place to go for europe is the slingshot channel store,
They have 2 types currently but both are fantastically made and designed

I think a lot of the newer shooters own scouts, which they sell here for europe. Or at simple-shot.com for US

http://www.the-slingshotchannel-store.com/

http://simple-shot.com


----------



## Lacumo

1---The HTS isn't "dangerous." Mine is one of my first-level go-to slings. It is however for a large hand.

2---You're likely going to end up trying a number of different frame sizes/styles before you can determine what fits, feels and works best in your hand.

3---For a modestly priced starter frame, the FlippinOut Scout from SimpleShot is a safe, good bet.

Good luck with your research and shopping.


----------



## Gunnar

There are so many different answers. My first slingshot was a trumarks ws-1 I love it you should try it out. hope this helped


----------



## studer1972

Trumark seconded.


----------



## TimR

For a beginner, and knowing you will eventually own 30 to 50 slingshots,

start with a ringshooter Ferret Hunter board cut. Do this yourself with a coping saw. Don't worry about looks or smoothness.

Put rings on top and use Alliance file bands from walmart. No cutting, tying, measuring, etc. Just loop through the pouch and through the rings.

and get shooting. Beans until you're convinced you won't hit your thumb, then marbles or rocks.


----------



## harpersgrace

Basically you'll get as many answers as there are members. Myself I'ld say the best slingshot for a novice is a natural, come in all different sizes and shapes....but to each his own. 
As for aluminum from Milbroproshot or any from Pete they are tough as nails. Good luck on your search.


----------



## studer1972

If you can find the right Y shaped branch, a natural can have high, wide forks and can be shot hammer, choke, or finger braced.


----------



## Rolex

@ all: Thanks for all your input !

Prefer not to buy many Slingshot, but narrow down on a model that looks a bit nicer, a slingshot is not a really expensive toy. Among all the offers I like the fork of "Pocket Hathcock " or "SEAL Sniper" best, because I can detect in a notch (aiming device). Unfortunately, these slingshots seem to be too big for my hand, so I 'm going to throw a second eye on Milbro, because I think there more likely to find a model for my small hand (have to check this again...). However, I have understood "Henry in Panama" so, that caststeel, suppose aluminum also, can be easily destroyed by a fork hit ...

The "FlippinOut Scout from Simple Shot" I also find interesting, visually and price, unfortunately I can not find a notch (aiming device), as in the PocketPredator models. Given this lack of aiming device, I also think the other simple models are not so exciting.

Will now calmly investigate all information and then inform you of my decision.


----------



## All Buns Glazing

Henry in Panama said:


> The unaswerable question.


I say it's answerable. A poly Axiom from Simple-Shot!


----------



## Tex-Shooter

I said this in another post, but I will say it again. There is no perfect slingshot! There are no perfect bands either. -- Tex


----------



## Charles

Tex-Shooter said:


> I said this in another post, but I will say it again. There is no perfect slingshot! There are no perfect bands either. -- Tex


AMEN!!!!!

Cheers ..... Charles


----------



## Bill Hays

With a 7.4 inch hand, your's is a medium Men's size... which fits the SEAL Sniper, SEAL, Ranger, and G10 Hathcocks very well.

The regular sized Hathcock in cast resin will fit you as well, but it is more of a stretch than you might be used to.

Pretty much everybody has their own preferences and sizes... but I have worked quite extensively on trying to make models that will fit pretty much anybody and everybody... an example of that is the one below, which pretty well fits all the requirements you ticked off above.

Custom and semi-custom models start at less than $100 and can be made from solid G10... which means they are super strong and have a weight and feel that just feels "right" in the hand.

This one is unnamed and it's the same one I used in the Drunken Gambler shot... if I get the Drunken Gambler done in a few days from now with this slingshot... I'm sure I'll come up with a name for it!















If you're interested in one like this, the cost would be around $100, and it will be ready in about 2-3 weeks after ordering.


----------



## Rolex

Bill Hays said:


> If you're interested in one like this, the cost would be around $100, and it will be ready in about 2-3 weeks after ordering.


Bill, I am uncertain whether your Slingshot is good enough until you have accomplished the "Drunken Gambler" shot   

Seriously, your creations are most sympathetic and might therefore be "perfect" for me. In addition, I also like how you teach the art of shooting - so you got a PM...


----------



## Rolex

Wanted determine my draw length and have just noticed that my left eye is the dominant eye, even though I'm right-handed. I thought intuitive that I would hold the slingshot in my left hand, but am afraid I have to hold it in my right hand, I would not reject this, but I am unsettled... Of course, I could close the dominate eye, but unnatural solutions may attract other problems. On the other side, I could order an ambidextrous sling, but that seems like a compromise, so not like my "perfect" solution.

Right-handed, but left eye is dominant, in which hand the slingshot should be kept?


----------



## Imperial

Rolex said:


> Wanted determine my draw length and have just noticed that my left eye is the dominant eye, even though I'm right-handed. I thought intuitive that I would hold the slingshot in my left hand, but am afraid I have to hold it in my right hand, I would not reject this, but I am unsettled... Of course, I could close the dominate eye, but unnatural solutions may attract other problems. On the other side, I could order an ambidextrous sling, but that seems like a compromise, so not like my "perfect" solution.
> 
> Right-handed, but left eye is dominant, in which hand the slingshot should be kept?


use both eyes to aim with. some on here dont close an eye. if your trying to learn how to hold it on your other hand, start off with a hammer grip hold and a short draw. little by little over practice you can close an eye or keep both open and draw a little more each time your confident. then after a while if you want to shoot sideways, just slowly start using the slingshot with a few degrees tilt towards the side, until one day your a full sideways position. this is all i can suggest, hope some of it helps.


----------



## Rolex

Think you're right. After I've slept for a night, I am convinced that I have to aim with both eyes, this is natural and therefore I will hold the slingshot with my right hand.

But I would like to try semi-butterfly immediately, just as the "big guy" make it, which seems to me advantageous in range and speed :banana:


----------



## TimR

Butterfly is more expensive for the novice.

You should always wear eye protection.

When learning butterfly, occasionally you'll catch your safety glasses and they'll go down range and break. Then you have to buy new ones. Gets expensive.


----------



## Rolex

Happy to buy a few safety glasses, as long as my thumb remains intact...

Semi-Butterfly seems not so much more difficult to me, that few inches more, that will work or not :what:


----------



## Henry the Hermit

"When learning butterfly, occasionally you'll catch your safety glasses and they'll go down range and break. Then you have to buy new ones. Gets expensive."

How do you know that, Tim? LOL!


----------



## TimR

Henry in Panama said:


> "When learning butterfly, occasionally you'll catch your safety glasses and they'll go down range and break. Then you have to buy new ones. Gets expensive."
> 
> How do you know that, Tim? LOL!


There's a reason I built my first starship this weekend.

Draw length is now 43.5 inches, up from 30, and equivalent to half butterfly.


----------



## Rolex

TimR said:


> Henry in Panama said:
> 
> 
> 
> "When learning butterfly, occasionally you'll catch your safety glasses and they'll go down range and break. Then you have to buy new ones. Gets expensive."
> 
> How do you know that, Tim? LOL!
> 
> 
> 
> There's a reason I built my first starship this weekend.
> 
> Draw length is now 43.5 inches, up from 30, and equivalent to half butterfly.
Click to expand...

That's how I imagine it, although at 172 cm body size about 40 inch draw length may be sufficient.


----------



## Rolex

Actually I had already decided on the right hand as Slingshot hand, but there are also experienced voices that say "whichever hand you hold a bow with then hold the slingshot in that hand. If you do not use a bow whichever hand you throw a ball with hold the slingshot in the other hand". This would indicate back to my left hand...

In short, there is nothing left as something to tinker and observe how feel a few practice shots to me - too foggy is the theory.

In the the meantime I would like to thank Daranda and Bill Hays for their patience and values advice. While there are many beautiful slingshots, yet I see no alternative to their thoughtful and customizable products! Could I take their slingshots in hand then the decision would be much easier, so I have to research (myself) a bit more, to appreciate my final slingshot better.


----------

