# Knock Down Target system



## NoobShooter (Sep 15, 2012)

I had been working on making this setup for a little while.

I contacted people on the forum and got the measurements of the target size and proper distances from the ground and whatnot.. I cut the discs out of 1/4 inch HDPE sheeting and mounted them using heavy duty hinges and stainless hardware. The setup is made so you can remove the leg supports and fold it up to store when not in use and a welding blanket is being used as a back drop for now. Watch the video and leave a comment.. A thumbs up would also be much appreciated. Thanks to the gentlemen who helped me in this process..


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## chuckduster01 (May 30, 2015)

Nice setup, I like it alot. The slingshot is gorgeous too.


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## leon13 (Oct 4, 2012)

Thanks for showing looks good 
whoop whoop 
Cheers


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## fsa46 (Jul 8, 2012)

Outstanding job. Thanks for sharing.

I forgot what a pain it use to be to keep my ammo in my pocket until watched the video. Bought a ammo pouch and never looked back.....Love it.


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## 4WDX (Aug 27, 2015)

I just bought one of these for about $15 on eBay. I'm now working on a similar frame to yours to catch the slingshots. Your's looks good and is very similar to my design. Here's the resettable target I bought. You reset it by hitting the top single target.


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## devils son in law (Sep 2, 2014)

I like it Noobs!! All you need is a little table next to where you stand, for ammo and beer! : )


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## oldmiser (Jan 22, 2014)

Great job on the build for knock down targets..some nice shootings as well...Yeah that last one just did not want you

to put it down was all.....thanks for sharing.....Yup I like it

~AKAOldmiser


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## The Pocket Shot (Sep 28, 2014)

Nice. Wish I had one of those.  Now all you need is a remote control to put them up so you don't have to walk up there at all.


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## Sanch (Jun 24, 2015)

Nice now fab a reset using a pull cord and a spring to bring the reset to home position!


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

Very good looking set up! Please keep us updated on how the HDPE holds up over time, as well as how much the ammo bounces back out to the front instead of following and ending up in the backstop (I'm always looking for new materials for my practice setup).

Hopefully, this means we will see you at the MWST next year.

Todd


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## 4WDX (Aug 27, 2015)

Mine's all but finished now. Just about to install the curtain at the back now and then give it a little touch up with the sander. I'll be using that workbench to stand it on when I'm shooting and on it's own on the ground when my 6 y/o son has a go. Hopefully the resetting target above will arrive Tuesday and we'll be good to go! The target will sit on that middle shelf.


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

4WDX said:


> Mine's all but finished now. Just about to install the curtain at the back now and then give it a little touch up with the sander. I'll be using that workbench to stand it on when I'm shooting and on it's own on the ground when my 6 y/o son has a go. Hopefully the resetting target above will arrive Tuesday and we'll be good to go! The target will sit on that middle shelf.


Nice!! Being able to use it at different heights is always a plus.

Please be careful with the steel targets as they are known for sending ammo back in a hurry. You might be able to glue some leather on the face of the targets or prop the back leg up a little to angle the targets so the ammo goes down instead of straight back.

That target does look like a lot of fun.

Todd


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## 4WDX (Aug 27, 2015)

> Nice!! Being able to use it at different heights is always a plus.
> 
> Please be careful with the steel targets as they are known for sending ammo back in a hurry. You might be able to glue some leather on the face of the targets or prop the back leg up a little to angle the targets so the ammo goes down instead of straight back.
> 
> ...


Thanks for that, Todd, good advice! I'll take a look at it when it arrives and see if I can mod it.

Here it is with the curtain installed. I used a strip of wood plus two bolts with wing nuts that will allow me to quickly attach or remove the curtain if I want to just leave it outside. Am going to treat it with some outdoor wood preserver next.


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## NoobShooter (Sep 15, 2012)

Using the HDPE is so far a good idea. Its holding up to the abuse, the only draw back is that it sends the ammo back to me at a very high rate of speed if you hit low on the target. If you hit high, then you have about a 50% chance of it gong into the catch. As far as a reset cord. That would be something to think about for a near future change. Resetting the target every time isn't the end of the world, but it would be nice to just pull a string. I need to put a guard up on the 2x4 that holds the targets though. It looks like its going to be a problem if I dont. I also purchased some small neodymium magnets to put next to the ceramic ones to hold the hinge a little more.

Thanks Guys for the nice words and thanks Gaboxolo and Beanflip for the help..


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## 4WDX (Aug 27, 2015)

Five coats of outdoor preservative later!


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## sharp eye (Jun 3, 2014)

It looks very cool and practical. Could you give the targets and frame measurements? Thanks.


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## toolmantf99 (Feb 16, 2012)

Great Job! Knock down targets always look so fun to shoot at!!


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## NoobShooter (Sep 15, 2012)

These are the target sizes I used. Sorry for the crap picture. I took a picture of my computer screen. 








The top row of the targets rest at five feet above the ground and the bottom targets rest 7 inches under those. Frame is four foot wide between the legs. And 7 foot tall 2x4s were used for the legs. With three foot 2x4 supports at the bottom.


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## sharp eye (Jun 3, 2014)

Thank you for sharing the details, I'll give it a try.


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## BAT (Feb 26, 2015)

Nice idea!!! thanks for sharing!!


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## sharp eye (Jun 3, 2014)

@NobShooter, Do you get ricochets from the wooden frame?


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## NoobShooter (Sep 15, 2012)

Nobshooter. Lol. Not to bad from the wood. It does ricochete but not to bad. The hdpe is a lot more violent then the wood by far. I think if you use thick rubber or maybe leather for the target it would be safer. But I really like that satisfying "crack" you get from metal or the hdpe. The wood ricochet can be minimized by putting an additional layer over it. Im not sure what I'd use that's cost effective, I have a good bit of hdpe and I was thinking of installing it at an angle so it points towards the ground. I saw some rolls of 1/4" thick rubber at my work. I might see if I could get 4 foot of it and put it over the wood. I'm not to concerned so much about ricochets as I am about ruining the wood.


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

NoobShooter said:


> Nobshooter. Lol. Not to bad from the wood. It does ricochete but not to bad. The hdpe is a lot more violent then the wood by far. I think if you use thick rubber or maybe leather for the target it would be safer. But I really like that satisfying "crack" you get from metal or the hdpe. The wood ricochet can be minimized by putting an additional layer over it. Im not sure what I'd use that's cost effective, I have a good bit of hdpe and I was thinking of installing it at an angle so it points towards the ground. I saw some rolls of 1/4" thick rubber at my work. I might see if I could get 4 foot of it and put it over the wood. I'm not to concerned so much about ricochets as I am about ruining the wood.


If you have some 1/4" rubber, use that and make the targets. The actual tournament targets are made from conveyor belt. They are a little over 1/2" thick. They also give a satisfying 'thwack' when hit.

Some of the bounce back is caused by the hinge. There is just enough resistance to let the ammo bounce instead of hitting and taking the target with it into the backstop.

If you are worried about ruining the wood, turn it on edge and screw the hinge to the bottom of the board. Or, get a couple of 1/8" thick metal flat bars. It's a bunch more work, but they last forever and the bounce backs are almost nonexistent...I say almost because it can, and does still happen.


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## NoobShooter (Sep 15, 2012)

I'll ask today if I get a chance to see if I can get some.


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## 4WDX (Aug 27, 2015)

I get some ricochets from the wooden frame occasionally on mine but as above it's not bad and doesn't come back with any great speed. That said, I'm using the slingshot I bought for my son whilst waiting on a much more powerful SERE so we'll see how it works then.


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## quarterinmynose (Jan 21, 2012)

LOL. He is definitely a Nob. :rolling:

I think you just earned a nickname buddy....


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## Tag (Jun 11, 2014)

Cut these out of a 1/4 inch splash guard(mudflap). I was suprised how easy this rubber material cut. These are not the mud flaps that go on semis. I purchased them at NAPA, I'm sure other automotive stores carry the same type. These should last a long time the way I shoot(-:


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## Tag (Jun 11, 2014)

I made these out of 1/4 rubber from a splash guard, (mud flap( I used left angle tin snips to shape the targets. I was really suprised how well the tin snips cut the rubber.


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## Tag (Jun 11, 2014)

Well S%#£%!!!!!! I didn't think my first reply attached. Must be beer time


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## NoobShooter (Sep 15, 2012)

quarterinmynose said:


> LOL. He is definitely a Nob. :rolling:
> 
> I think you just earned a nickname buddy....


Thanks!!! 



Tag said:


> Cut these out of a 1/4 inch splash guard(mudflap). I was suprised how easy this rubber material cut. These are not the mud flaps that go on semis. I purchased them at NAPA, I'm sure other automotive stores carry the same type. These should last a long time the way I shoot(-:


Thats probably an easier rubber to cut then what I was about to ask for. I looked at the rubber again and it has an equal amount of reinforcing material as there is rubber in it.


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## Toolshed (Aug 4, 2015)

I had some hinges lying around. Made myself a little one of these. WOW, these things are dangerous at close range! haha

I used can lids as the targets. I'll be covering those with some thick leather. I'd love to be able to score some old conveyor/mudflap....Might have to stop in at the truckstop and see if they have any throw-aways.

Thanks for this idea!


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## 4WDX (Aug 27, 2015)

Toolshed said:


> I had some hinges lying around. Made myself a little one of these. WOW, these things are dangerous at close range! haha
> 
> I used can lids as the targets. I'll be covering those with some thick leather. I'd love to be able to score some old conveyor/mudflap....Might have to stop in at the truckstop and see if they have any throw-aways.
> 
> Thanks for this idea!


Scrap yards should have loads of them, I'd have though? I bet you can also find generic ones for a couple of bucks on eBay.


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## Tag (Jun 11, 2014)

When we made some targets out of conveor belting from a grain elevator. We heated up exhaust pipe on the end and then set it on the belting. Smell wasn't the best, but it works.


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## NoobShooter (Sep 15, 2012)

Tag said:


> When we made some targets out of conveor belting from a grain elevator. We heated up exhaust pipe on the end and then set it on the belting. Smell wasn't the best, but it works.


That's exactly what this rubber belt in. We took down a 100 foot grain elevator this year. And saved all the metal buckets and rubber belt. It looked like a pain to cut. I'll find out though. I have to cut some tomorrow to replace the worn rubber on the back of a bush hog.


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

For the MWST targets I scribe the circle, cut as close as I can with a scroll saw then use a bench grinder to finish shape them. It makes a huge mess of very fine rubber and canvas and turns the basement a cloudy blue haze that lasts for several hours. But the result is more than worth it. The problem with the targets is that they do bounce back (not all the way to the shooter) especially with the bigger targets and ammo 3/8" and smaller.

To keep ammo from bouncing back, the target needs to be light and have the least resistance possible at impact. Hinges are great for fast resetting and for keeping the targets the same every time. But they do increase the resistance.

Personally, I like knock down targets make out of thin gauge sheet metal. The metal is available at most Menards or Lowes or Home Depot. It can be cut with tinsnips, but a band saw with a metal cutting blade will work. Just add a small tab on the bottom of the target, bend it and use a magnet on the board or flat bar to hold them in place. The down side of the metal targets is that they are loud, and they will bend. I take a hammer to them every once in a while and they are good to go. I have used the same set for practice for well over a year and I finally have to replace one of the targets as the tab broke off...it was pretty thin when I originally cut it out.


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## Tag (Jun 11, 2014)

I used a skill saw to cut some belting I had left over. I clamped a couple boards close to where I was cutting to keep the belting from jumping (vibrating ) One word of caution when using a bench grinder to smooth the edges of the belting. It can get hot enough to catch fire. If the rubber shavings get hot enough, the air from the grinding wheel will ignite the smoldering rubber. Been there done that!!!!!!!!! A person can't keep something like that to himself.


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