# Anchor point when you pull past your anchor point?



## Byudzai (Aug 31, 2013)

Hey guys,

Newbie sort of question here, but I keep looking and not finding a really good answer.

Anchor point seems important for side-shooting style aiming, but everybody pulls past their anchor point for greater speed, either straight past the cheek or into full or half butterfly.

My amateur shooting is, so far, suffering horribly from any efforts to aim while pulled past my anchor point. I'll get in a sweet spot for a bit but then lose it completely. I see Bill and others a) sighting along the top band and b) making sure the top and bottom bands are aligned and c) that the top band lines up beneath the target like a lollipop, but is that enough?

Btw, got a red Scout today. Great slingshot! (Am I a poser if I call it a "Catty" here in America?)


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## Oneproudmeximan (May 20, 2013)

Shoot shoot shoot and more shooting that's the only way you'll find your anchor point make a nice catch box you'll get it tuned in now worries


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## Bill Hays (Aug 9, 2010)

Start with an anchor, the lollipop and so forth... then as you get more comfortable and more accurate, you can start lengthening out your draw some. As you pull farther and farther your sight picture will change a little, just give your brain time enough to compensate and in no time you'll be doing great.


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## treefork (Feb 1, 2010)

Well there you have it.


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## Susi (Mar 3, 2013)

The idea is to hit the target in my humble opinion, not so much speed. I do envy the full butterfly guys who are spot on accurate. Maybe 100.000 rnds later I can? Since the draw hand has nothing to reference to in a half or full btrfly mode, it would take a huge amount of practice for me to ever master it. I doubt I'll spend the time to do that and will be content with just aiming then increasing instinctive but with an anchor point. Again, I'm, more interested in just hitting the target than speed. I don't hunt so speed for me is immaterial. Chuck's power SSs are something else and I keep telling him to back off the pull strength to increase his accuracy (hand jiggle due to muscle stress holding the 45 lb pull). His bow is 60 but with the mass of the bow to calm down the muscle jiggle, that's fine but a light weight SS is another matter, there's no mass to calm down muscle jiggle under stress. He's watching me write this so he agrees, one of his SSs will be backed off to say 30 lbs to see what that can do. He has this psychological need for power that he's got to quench a bit I think.

By the way, his SS rifle is working, the working parts (sear) needs polishing but the Bill Hayes carbine is now working. We can't get the clamps Bill uses here for the release mechanism, no one's ever heard of them, so Chuck made a Jeorg Sprag model out of steel parts instead of wood to duplicate the finger release using PVC over steel bushing rollers. When it's done we'll post it. Lathe and welder got a workout on the rifle project. We don't see any advantage it has over a hand held SS, in fact, several major disadvantages, it's terribly slow to load and it's big, but good accuracy. We used tubes on this just because we had some tube laying around, later when they break we'll swtich to flat bands. I think SS rifles are more of a novelty than practical. Maybe a mod to make it shoot arrows would be legit?


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