# Favorite Band Attachment Method?



## Slingster (Apr 13, 2016)

I was just curious what your guys favorite band attachment method is. I currently just have a Ocularis Axiom with the dial a fork plug, and two wood slingshots that I made which use the wrap technique. I have a design I am working on right now that I am going to make and use my own micarta, and I am trying to decide which method to use. I really like the simplicity and variability of the dial a fork plug, but am open to other options.

What do you guys prefer for band attachment?

Thanks

Slingster


----------



## mattwalt (Jan 5, 2017)

Matchstick method, looped tubes with a section of tube 'pin' for me.


----------



## jazz (May 15, 2012)

good old wrap-n-tuck


----------



## brucered (Dec 30, 2015)

jazz said:


> good old wrap-n-tuck


Same here.


----------



## treefork (Feb 1, 2010)

Wrap-n-tuck .


----------



## KawKan (May 11, 2013)

I like anything that works!

Wrap and Tuck is my favorite for flats.

Slotted ring is my favorite for tubes.


----------



## brucered (Dec 30, 2015)

KawKan said:


> I like anything that works!
> Wrap and Tuck is my favorite for flats.
> Slotted ring is my favorite for tubes.


Same here, I'm not opposed to any method that is safe and works.

I mainly use W&T because I mainly make naturals. It's the easiest and most effective method I have found for them. I also like the clean look, I don't even use band grooves.


----------



## tastetickles (Jul 3, 2017)

After trying the Scout and Beanflip, I prefer the wrap and tuck method. The Scout's clips works really well but I find it does shorten band life in TTF as the bands strike against the circular "washer". In OTT not much issues but I prefer to shoot OTT with narrower forks slingshot.

As for the Ocularis plugs I encountered issue after prolong shooting session the bands started slipping from their prior TTF position towards the OTT position, it's a slight degrees movement and I suspect it is caused by twist of band during shooting. I'm OCD so I can't stand it, I have issue with this kind of thing... I have to get the exact 90 degrees.


----------



## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

Okay here is another opportunity for me to throw in the Pocket Predator Pro Clips as a favorite flat band no tie attachment method. They are great on the poly frames and the g10 and resign models I have. I have not tried them on wood frames yet.

I bought an Ooak Forage aluminum slingshot and I really like the attachment method on it. Just a small flat plate screwed into the frame with thumb screws. The bands hold great with that method. Not sure how it would work on wood frames.

My experience with the Occularis Plugs is they have a tendency to work their way out and you always need to be checking them and pushing them back in from time to time. Even had one in my bean flip come out while just sitting in the bag. And my worst experience was when I handed my folded up Hammer to a friend. He unfolded it backwards and pulled back pulling both Occularis Plugs out and they went flying past us as if they'd been shot out of the slingshot. So they are not idiot proof and you need to keep a watchful eye especially when handing a slingshot with Occularis Plugs to someone else.

A+ Slingshots has a neat way to attach flat bands on The Wasp. A slot in the forks with a short piece of paracord to hold when the band is doubled in the slot.

Just yesterday, I found out that a bolt through a slit in the bands and bolted to a hole in the frame works really great. Since the pull on the band is over the fork there is no pressure on the slit in the bands. I used a washer on both sides and that seems to act like the flip clip without any plastic parts to break.

I think the best might be well plugs or expansion nuts. I bought some from Stone Spear in the UK before figuring out that they are readily available in bulk on eBay.


----------



## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

tastetickles said:


> After trying the Scout and Beanflip, I preferred the wrap and tuck method. The Scout's clips works really well but I find it does shorten band life in TTF as the bands strike against the circular "washer". In OTT not much issues but I prefer to shoot OTT with narrower forks slingshot.
> 
> As for the Ocularis plugs I encountered issue after prolong shooting session the bands started slipping from their prior TI second TF position towards the OTT position, it's a slight degrees movement and I suspect it is caused by twist of band during shooting. I'm OCD so I can't stand it, I have issue with this kind of thing... I have to get the exact 90 degrees.


I second that motion. I've had the same problems with the Ocularis plugs in my bean flip and a Hammer. And you can't get me to endorse a piece of cheap plastic either.


----------



## Cjw (Nov 1, 2012)

Don't have any of those issues shooting looped tubes in an SPS.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

I'm glad you posted this much discussed topic. I'm overjoyed to know that I am not the only one on the forum who prefers a no tie band attachment method over wrap and tuck. Even though I now have the wrap and tuck figured out, I don't actually see the need when there are other more advanced methods available. I do have two (2) Pocket Predator HTS frames that have no hole for Pro Clips and I have successfully tied the bands on both of them and enjoy shooting them but in the time I can tie one band on I can put both bands on using a no tie attachment method. And it gives a much cleaner appearance.

Anyway, despite the appearance of popularity of the wrap and tuck it is nice to know there are others who can and do appreciate no tie methods.


----------



## Kalevala (Jul 20, 2014)

This is my favorite.

Have to use tool when changing bands but it's not big deal.


----------



## S.C.Daniel (Nov 7, 2017)

I like the Wrap and Tuck. It's simple and I seem to have a large stock of #64 rubber bands.

Works for me. I like Shooting OTT...

I also like shooting tubes in a Natural Rings slingshot I fashioned after seeing what Squirrel had built. Works.


----------



## Hobbit With A Slingshot (Mar 14, 2017)

Like KawKan said, anything that works is fine by me. I use wrap-'n-tuck, those clamps on the rambone 2.0, will soon try the PP buckle clamps, and am cooking a couple things up with DIY band plugs and something with top/slots... might have more on those two later, if time allows.


----------



## Samurai Samoht (Apr 6, 2013)

I definitely gravitate towards no-tie methods but have no trouble with wrap n tuck. My all time favourite is the matchstick method on Roger Henries Rotating head frames.

I really like the Flip Clip and I like it even more with a small modification using a blind rivet nut and cap screw. (video below if you're interested)

I have never had an issue with my bands slipping on an Ocularis frame but if you experience problems I recommend using a tapered silicone plug.


----------



## ShootnCoastie (Jan 26, 2015)

Ocularis.

Some here are purchased, some are hand made. I can go from TTF to OTT in seconds and it handles both flats and tubes.

I've only had one slip on me, which was with my aluminum Bean Flip, I didn't fully seat the bearing, and I also attribute the slip to Armor all on the plug and bands.

I've even shot some setups without a bearing in the plug and it's held.


----------



## BushpotChef (Oct 7, 2017)

Wrap n tuck all day. 

Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

I love the idea of Top/side slot. But I still have not broke that bronc yet. Most of the time I do W&T on flats and tabs. I'm big on tabs.


----------



## you'llshootyereyeout (Apr 5, 2014)

I mostly shoot with a binding post attachment method. Works with a small hole in the end of the band. In the years I've been using it have never had a band fail at the fork. It's clean looking and requires no tool to swap bands. I use only my thumb nail to tighten the screws.

After that I like the top slot method with a tube hole. This allows for a tool free use of flat bands, as well as single and looped tubes

I have YouTube videos showing how to use these methods.

If I was gonna buy a frame with a sweet attachment method I'd take a hard look at the FlatCat (I own a few). Super cool attachment system, but one that would be difficult to DIY.


----------



## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

H

Does anyone have experience with the bolt through a slit in the flat band attachment method. I've seen a post or two from years gone by that it works well. Seems very simple and doable if the slit does not eventually pull out. A video I saw on this stated that there is very little if any pull on the slit since most of the pull is at the point the band goes over the top of the fork.

Three days ago I banded a metal frame like this with a small bolt through the band and bolted to the frame. I've shot a couple hundred shots through it and it is holding up very well.


----------



## Ibojoe (Mar 13, 2016)

Wrap & tuck all day long. Why take chances with your eyes?


----------



## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

Just had a wrap and tuck come flying loose yesterday afternoon. I didn't tie it. The bands were tied on when I got it from the maker. Wrap and tuck isn't the cure all. There are other much better options with Pocket Predator Pro Clips being right up there on the top of the list. I have also come to trust well nuts in a fork hole as extremely trustworthy. Tony the Slinger made me a custom Scout using well nuts or more correctly Fast Fix from Stone Spear. This gives a nice clean look and holds like a Champ. My Ooak Forge slingshot with a screw down flat plate is great also.

Yes I will agree that not all no tie options are safe. I won't trust the top slots or any no tie attachment method that involves using a cheap piece of plastic to hold the bands. Those are not fail proof. And I will agree that round rubber plugs that require a ball stuck in them are far from fail proof and allow bands to slip and slide as well as come completely out while shooting. Yes, I agree that if you are not going to use wrap and tuck and opt out for a no tie attachment method you will need to do some research and experimenting to find out what works and what is dangerous as some of the mainstream no tie methods are.


----------



## Cjw (Nov 1, 2012)

Been wrapping and tucking for years and never had one come loose. Maybe it's not tight enough. 
If you look at almost all the shooters in Great Britain use wrap and tuck. And their some of the best shooters in the world. If there was a problem with it I'm sure they would change their method.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## ShootnCoastie (Jan 26, 2015)

While I don't recommend it, I just took fifteen shots on my home made Maxim Ocularis with no bearing. If installed correctly, it's a rock solid band/tube attachment. It's versatility to attach bands or tubes is what I like about the Ocularis.


----------



## you'llshootyereyeout (Apr 5, 2014)

No tool attachment


----------



## you'llshootyereyeout (Apr 5, 2014)

Binding post video


----------



## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

I just had 10 metal frames cut out with a fork hole. Today I bought bolts and thumb screw nuts for band attachments. Next batch I will use these.



you'llshootyereyeout said:


> Binding post video


----------



## Slingster (Apr 13, 2016)

Thanks everyone for the responses. I really like the look of the slot style binding method. I wonder if band life is reduced from the sharper edges of the slot? Are these just drilled and they cut on the bandsaw?

(I was going to post an image but it says that I am not allowed to do so. So here is a link instead.)

http://www.slingshotcommunity.com/attachments/next-jpg.8806/


----------



## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

Slingster said:


> Thanks everyone for the responses. I really like the look of the slot style binding method. I wonder if band life is reduced from the sharper edges of the slot? Are these just drilled and they cut on the bandsaw?
> 
> (I was going to post an image but it says that I am not allowed to do so. So here is a link instead.)
> 
> http://www.slingshotcommunity.com/attachments/next-jpg.8806/


Bill Hays made a few with Top Slots but stopped because of possible legal issues that might occur because of bands coming out of the slots. Got that info from either here on the forum or one of his videos. I'd feel more comfortable with my wrap and tuck than slots. But why not be on the safe side and use Pro Clips or Well Nuts.


----------



## Cjw (Nov 1, 2012)

Roger Henrie made top slots for years with no issues. I've had 2 of his recurve hunters with top slots and never had one come loose.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Bill Hays (Aug 9, 2010)

Slingster said:


> Thanks everyone for the responses. I really like the look of the slot style binding method. I wonder if band life is reduced from the sharper edges of the slot? Are these just drilled and they cut on the bandsaw?
> 
> (I was going to post an image but it says that I am not allowed to do so. So here is a link instead.)
> 
> http://www.slingshotcommunity.com/attachments/next-jpg.8806/


So long as you do it right, the Topslot method is actually one of the easiest and most secure ways to do it without tools or additional hardware (that's the reason I came up with it in the first place, easy to use in the field)... BUT, I don't and won't use it on a commercial model because we live in a very litigious society.

Everything I do with slingshots has a LOT of testing behind it before I release it to the general public.... So I did a lot of testing and found that with kids, it is fairly difficult for them to do it correctly and as a result the bands can more often than not be pulled out easily creating unnecessary risk.

Roger sells(sold) pretty much strictly to adults... so topslots are just fine because most adults have the fingertip strength to pull the bands to sides properly...

And the Chinese... well I guess they don't really care if something goes wrong... what're you going to do, sue China? Let's see how that plays out..

As a result of that, it has become extremely popular in China and now abroad... but the fact of the matter is... YES, easy to do for most adults... hard to do for most kids... and that creates a legal problem if we knowingly sell something that we know has that problem.

On the other hand... tying bands on... especially using the smart tie method... most kids can do it with a little instruction, so it's still one of the safest and easiest ways to attach bands...

Now, the title of this thread... Favorite attachment method....

Mine is still Topslots for the small slingshot I carry on the farm while doing chores or tractor work....

Smart ties for some other models... and lately I"ve been using the buckle clamps with the aiming plate for target practice... and am thinking about using them on the next tournaments as well.

So long as you attach the topslots like in the video, you'll be fine.

Alternatively you can use a little piece of tubing, taco it into the band and pull it taut into the slot... but of course in the field you'd have to have tubing though...






This is how you use the smart tie method:


----------



## KawKan (May 11, 2013)

Slingster said:


> Thanks everyone for the responses. I really like the look of the slot style binding method. I wonder if band life is reduced from the sharper edges of the slot? Are these just drilled and they cut on the bandsaw?
> 
> (I was going to post an image but it says that I am not allowed to do so. So here is a link instead.)
> 
> http://www.slingshotcommunity.com/attachments/next-jpg.8806/


Thank you, @Slingster for posting such an interesting topic!

When I've made topslots, I've drilled first and then cut the slots with a handsaw - hacksaw blade seem to have about the right thickness - my pullsaw kerf cuts too thin.

A little 220 grit sandpaper can soften the edges and help with inserting the bands. It doesn't compromise the security of the attachment at all. I've used this method in several shooters and I've never had a problem with wear at the forks.

Good luck!


----------



## SLING-N-SHOT (Jun 5, 2018)

I have yet to band any up, still have 2 or 3 natties in the works, just prior to the finishing stage.

Not sure what the method is called ( ?? ), but on one, I am thinking of using the slit cut down through the middle

of the tips, with the 1/8" hole drilled through the fork at the bottom of the slit. This is where I've seen the flat

bands rolled up at the bottom, then stretched and slid down into the slots to be shot in an OTT fashion.

( I think this slotting method would also allow use of the matchstick method too ? )


----------



## stevekt (Jul 3, 2012)

I really like having a system with a clip and bolt like in the Scout or Rambone but I would prefer a thumbscrew so I don't have to grab a screwdriver or Allen wrench.


----------



## Samurai Samoht (Apr 6, 2013)

SHAGGYGA said:


> I have yet to band any up, still have 2 or 3 natties in the works, just prior to the finishing stage.
> 
> Not sure what the method is called ( ?? ), but on one, I am thinking of using the slit cut down through the middle
> 
> ...


Sounds like the top slot method.


----------



## Samurai Samoht (Apr 6, 2013)

stevekt said:


> I really like having a system with a clip and bolt like in the Scout or Rambone but I would prefer a thumbscrew so I don't have to grab a screwdriver or Allen wrench.


On my modified flip-clips I upgraded to the thumbscrew SimpleShot has for the Hammer frame. Works great!

https://slingshotforum.com/gallery/image/38908-thumb-screws-upgrade/


----------



## stevekt (Jul 3, 2012)

SamuraiSamoht said:


> stevekt said:
> 
> 
> > I really like having a system with a clip and bolt like in the Scout or Rambone but I would prefer a thumbscrew so I don't have to grab a screwdriver or Allen wrench.
> ...


That looks great.


----------



## Flatband (Dec 18, 2009)

Wrap and tuck.


----------



## papabearscout (Aug 4, 2020)

I thought this was an interesting method of using the slot method, however a little insurance against pull through.


----------

