# Surgical Tubing Hunter



## CBob

I plan to make a heavy duty surgical tubing slingshot something like frogman has pics of on his website. Anyone have a recommendation on tubing size and a source for the tubing.


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## jmplsnt

I think he's using something larger than the old standby 3/8", though I do remember a four-banded monster of his that might have worn 3/8".

I don't shoot tubing much anymore (gone over to chained rubber bands) but he's a great reminder that old school round tubing never stopped working when everyone got onboard the Theraband train.


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## Nico

Hi CBob,

If you have a LOWES around where you live you can as jmp said the exact measurement its labeled as latex hose with a 3/8" OD and 1/4" ID this tubing works very well with heavy ammunition. Get yourself a good pouch that can accomodate 1/2" hexnuts and stones cos you never when you will need them







Also this tubing works well with heavier ammo like the 3/4oz lead egg sinkers *OUCH* that smarts







That will stop most any prey you shoot with it









My father swears by this stuff.. Personally I use chained bands but I have had my experiences with heavy tubes like these and they absolutely get the job done without struggle. The plus being great longevity..

Let us know how it turns out and do post kill pics









Note: I asked the clerk at LOWES if they had surgical tubing and she directed me to plumbing where they had hoses and thats where I found the latex hose which I feel will give you the most satisfaction in your tube style hunting slingshot.


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## shot in the foot

I sometimes use the 20x40 chinese tubes 8 strands and it takes rabbits no bother, it takes 6mm to 16mm no bother, jeff


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## frogman

The tubing I use is 1/4IDX3/32inch wall. cut them a little longer than your normal length. If they are too short they can have too much hand shock. Deep draw also is the call on that. I had an old friend drop by the other day. He is an Army Ranger and stays in the field alot. He pulled out the sling I made him and it is still shooting serious power after three years. Of course he doesn't leave it out, he stores it in a dark place when not in use. I asked him if I had rebuilt it for him in the past, he said it was the exact same one and I am sure it's been at least three years plus. The draw gets alot easier after about 200 shots. Let me know If I can help you with developement.....Frogman


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## mceinsb

Hi Guys,
What do you find to be the best method for attaching the tubing to the pouch? I've only tied up gum rubber flatbands to date.

Thank you for any advice,
Mike


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## philly

shot in the foot said:


> I sometimes use the 20x40 chinese tubes 8 strands and it takes rabbits no bother, it takes 6mm to 16mm no bother, jeff


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## philly

Great looking flip there, nice work SIF.
Philly


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## frogman

Remember bigger than the measurements that I posted won't work, unless you make the bands 2ft. for something like a siege machine. You can use thicker tubing, but it has to be longer than is useable for the normal draw length. So 1/4IDX3/32Wall is about as big as you can go and still maintein speed and power........Frogman


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## jmplsnt

Hmmmm........I sense the old school tubing is about to make a comeback! I love the chained bands but anyone who likes simple things should appreciate these elastics. My reasoning in getting into the chains in the beginning was I didn't want to deal with the (to me) complicated process of cutting bands to spec. With the tubes it's a pretty simple matter.

I think I will make a tubing band and strap up one of my gypsies......I've got a hickory fork in the process that Frogman's posts have had me thinking of banding with the tubes. I will also check Lowe's out next time I'm in town.


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## frogman

if you need need some help let me know


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## BaneofSmallGame

This is yet another interesting thread about "new old stock" bandset options that are practical and effective.









It also sounds like something I'd love to try with my ever growing collection of quite large river stones. I'll just have to find some time to head up to Lowes to have a look. Anything that will shoot my stones well is high up on my list as I can consistently gather them for free........and their weight and tumbling affect certainly packs a punch.

I have one question concerning the tubes at this point....how is the draw on them Frogman?....or anyone else that has used them? They look quite monstrous but you never can tell these days ( at least they look/sound like they'll last forever)!

Thanks - John


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## frogman

They are tough to draw. At first, but, after they have been broken in 150- 200 shots they get really smooth. They are rather soft after that, while still packing the power. If they are well taken care of they can shoot 5000 shots without breaking. At that point I have lost count. I won't deny you are giving up some speed, but, how much speed? Not more than a few FPS. If I am makeing kill shots out to 150 200ft how much more speed do I need? Good on you my friend


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## Nest Buster

frogman said:


> They are tough to draw. At first, but, after they have been broken in 150- 200 shots they get really smooth. They are rather soft after that, while still packing the power. If they are well taken care of they can shoot 5000 shots without breaking. At that point I have lost count. I won't deny you are giving up some speed, but, how much speed? Not more than a few FPS. If I am makeing kill shots out to 150 200ft how much more speed do I need? Good on you my friend


You said it write Frogman the more you shoot them the better they feel, but you cant be a candy when it comes to shooting them better have a strong grip an draw deep or your wasting your time. If it was easy everyone would be shooting them?


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## dhansen

CBob said:


> I plan to make a heavy duty surgical tubing slingshot something like frogman has pics of on his website. Anyone have a recommendation on tubing size and a source for the tubing.


CBob,

I was inspired by Frogman and I made myself a natural fork slingshot using latex tubing that I bought at Lowes. Lowes sells it by the foot and Home Depot sells it in 10 ft. lengths, pre cut. The fork is Oak. I let it dry about a month before cutting it down to size and driling 5/16 in. holes for the tubes. I attached the tubes to the pouch the same way as commercial slingshots are attached, by inserting the tube through a small hole in itself. I coated the fork with tung oil to help protect it from moisture. The slingshot shoots very well, is powerful, and the Y shape is very comfortable to hold. It will take any small game. The tubing that Frogman uses is much thicker than surgical tubing and is harder to draw. It is however better and more powerful. Hope this helps.

Here's a photo of my slingshots that have tubes attached. From left to right: Small Dankung that I like, my Frogman Inspired sling that i made with surgical tubing (shoots real accurate), a Maxi Power wood frame slingshot by Frogman that I recently purchased (my favorite), and a commercial slingshot with tapered tubes that shoots very well. I plan on making a few with Theraband Tubing since it comes in different weights. Tubes are great. I really like flat bands, but I prefer tubes.

happy trails


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## Nico

shot in the foot said:


> I sometimes use the 20x40 chinese tubes 8 strands and it takes rabbits no bother, it takes 6mm to 16mm no bother, jeff


That's a great looking catty Jeff.. You have some impressive slingshot making skills..


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## Henry the Hermit

Here are a couple I just made. Both are intended for hunting and both are lacking the black heat-shrink tubing which will cover the forks. The tubes are Theraband Green and pull in the neighborhood of 20 pounds. For all you old geezers like me, l suggest starting with 11 inch long cuts, which will results in a bit over 8 inches from fork tip to pouch. You can always shorten the tubes if that proves too easy a draw. These are intended to shoot .45 caliber lead balls.

The pouch attachment is clearly seen and I have found it to be very secure. I use snap-ring pliers to open the retaining band for assembly. The frames are 5/16 inch aluminum rod. One is wrapped with OD paracord and the other has a simple Fimo handle. I hope someone will find this useful.


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## dhansen

Henry in Panama, 
I like your slingshots. Good work. I like the green look and the way you attached the tubes to the pouch; very cool. I like the paracord wrapped one a lot. Years ago I tried to make one out of a 1/4 in. thick aluminum rod but I didn't bend the forks equally and messed it up.

Shot In Foot,
I like that slingshot you made. Those small Chinese tubes are fast. Bet it shoots real well. Nice work.


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## ZDP-189

Henry in Panama said:


> the other has a simple Fimo handle. I hope someone will find this useful.


Well, I'm certainly finding it useful, Henry. Thank you. I've found it a little heavier than I've become used to recently, but it has power aplenty and seems less sensitive to projectile size; a desireable attribute if used in the field where ammo resupply means a dry stream bed.


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## JoergS

Nice slingshots.

Henry, I think the pouch is overkill for .45 lead balls. You would gain serious additional speed if you would use a pouch half that size.


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## Henry the Hermit

JoergS said:


> Nice slingshots.
> 
> Henry, I think the pouch is overkill for .45 lead balls. You would gain serious additional speed if you would use a pouch half that size.


You are correct Joerg, as usual.







These pouches are a bit over 3 inches end to end and 7/8 inch wide. I have tried shorter and narrower pouches and they do indeed work better with .45 balls, but not with the 5/8 inch glass marbles that I also shoot. I decided on this size as a good compromise for inexperienced shooters and different sized ammo, including rocks. When I get back home and have access to my tools and raw materials, I plan to work out a combo that will work best with .45 and .50 lead.

As always, your advice is highly appreciated.

For those who don't know, it was one of Joerg's videos that turned me on to Fimo. And I'll take this opportunity to thank Smitty for getting me started with bent rods. Also, I'm pretty sure it was Tex who first posted about the pouch attachment method I'm using. If I'm wrong someone can correct me.


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## Brewman

That's all the power you need for most game. We might have to work a trade for this one. How do you like that connection method to the prongs?


shot in the foot said:


> I sometimes use the 20x40 chinese tubes 8 strands and it takes rabbits no bother, it takes 6mm to 16mm no bother, jeff


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## shot in the foot

Brewman said:


> I sometimes use the 20x40 chinese tubes 8 strands and it takes rabbits no bother, it takes 6mm to 16mm no bother, jeff


[/quote]

That slingshot was given to the farmer for letting me hunt on his land for the last 20 years, he also lends me his shotguns, a very good friend now, the screw part of the rings go,s the full lenith of the forks and are glued in with glue that you use to glue metal, ive never had a ring pull out yet, the ring has a gap to just slide the tubes on, like the Dankung, jeff


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## ruthiexxxx

I've got some of the surgical tubing that a friend kindly sent. It's a half inch outer diameter. A bit heavy for slingshots but fine for slingbows. Not the easiest of draw though!


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## Nicholson

If your shooting big tubes you kinda have to be in shape the long draw for long shots are kinda tough. my dad is 66, he could shoot good with them but he says its too much for him. I have a triple band theraband gold slingshot I wanna try I get way more speed. I only got one kill with big tubes. pretty impressive tho but they arnt meant for target style, you need to be instinctive. I have no experience with other tubes except for the black luped tubes that come with performance catapult slingshots they are pretty good with 1/2 inch steel. In the cold theraband gold works good enough, tubes kinda suck in the extreme cold


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