# Slots for tube holes?



## eiji-the-second (Aug 8, 2012)

Hi guys i think this is in the right section.

Im about to make a looped tube shooter, but i have a question. I want the quick change hole and slot fixing ( drill a hole slice into it with a hacksaw from the side of the fork) . It will be made from a teak board or an alder (native irish species) natural. 
So here's the question.
Should i be scared of the fork snapping at the cut?
How much uncut fork should be a minimum?
Sorry this is quite cryptic i have no photos to explain
Also sorry if this has been covered 
Jamin, southern ireland


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## treefork (Feb 1, 2010)

The question is : How much material will be supporting the bands and is it adequate to support the weight ?


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## eiji-the-second (Aug 8, 2012)

treefork said:


> The question is : How much material will be supporting the bands and is it adequate to support the weight ?


Thank you for clarifying


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## eiji-the-second (Aug 8, 2012)

Doc said:


> I actually thought about this yesterday. Cutting a slice out of a natural fork tip, to just below the slot, then replacing the cut out section with another bit of wood with its grain running 90 degrees to the forks. Creating a 90/180/90 3 ply tip. Which would hopefully stop the tips snapping off along the grain.
> 
> crude pic of idea.
> 
> Image0000.jpg


Thats a good idea for reinforcement but a little too much work for my liking,


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## eiji-the-second (Aug 8, 2012)

Thanks guys for your replies


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## eiji-the-second (Aug 8, 2012)

For a bit more info i want to cut the slots from the middle like so,


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## Susi (Mar 3, 2013)

The reinforced slot idea that Doc mentioned sounds like a winner to me, use epoxy glue and make the grain crossed with the fork branch...effectively making it laminated or plywood. I would select a nice thick fork as well, that way you've plenty of room and material and presumably strength and enough room for a nice ergo handle and finger/thumb rests on the fork if you're not a hammer hold guy. Always start off with a natural fork larger/fgatter/bigger than you think you'll need, you can always whittle off wood but you can't put it back on. Just my thoughts...post when done please, we'd like to see it.

Also, if you don't use looped tubes (pseudo taper it's called) you can simply insert the tubes into holes with no slots with the aid of a hemostat or very thin wee needle nose pliers, insert a peg or ball bearing in the tube end that really fits in there tightly (spit is a good lube) and it's ready to shoot. Experiment of course with sizes of pegs, the taper or use ball bearings from a bicycle shop, free of lubricants/grease for the size tube you use. There is no formula, you have to experiment. Flat bands absolve you of all this problem, just slot the forks, double the band, stretch and insert, put a match stick or equivalent in the loop to assure firm anchoring if it seems loose. I use a hack saw blade to cut slots, sand well, round off corners, varnish inside, fine sand again the interior of the slots with 400 paper or so.


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## eiji-the-second (Aug 8, 2012)

Doc said:


> eiji-the-second said:
> 
> 
> > Doc said:
> ...


After reading about ring shooters i think thats the way to go for me with the natural, many seem to extol the virtues of them.

And i will wait till i want to step into hdpe or ply to do the hole in slot method .

Right now i have more spare teak and natural forks to know what to do with, thank you for your replies doc


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## eiji-the-second (Aug 8, 2012)

Susi said:


> The reinforced slot idea that Doc mentioned sounds like a winner to me, use epoxy glue and make the grain crossed with the fork branch...effectively making it laminated or plywood. I would select a nice thick fork as well, that way you've plenty of room and material and presumably strength and enough room for a nice ergo handle and finger/thumb rests on the fork if you're not a hammer hold guy. Always start off with a natural fork larger/fgatter/bigger than you think you'll need, you can always whittle off wood but you can't put it back on. Just my thoughts...post when done please, we'd like to see it.
> 
> Also, if you don't use looped tubes (pseudo taper it's called) you can simply insert the tubes into holes with no slots with the aid of a hemostat or very thin wee needle nose pliers, insert a peg or ball bearing in the tube end that really fits in there tightly (spit is a good lube) and it's ready to shoot. Experiment of course with sizes of pegs, the taper or use ball bearings from a bicycle shop, free of lubricants/grease for the size tube you use. There is no formula, you have to experiment. Flat bands absolve you of all this problem, just slot the forks, double the band, stretch and insert, put a match stick or equivalent in the loop to assure firm anchoring if it seems loose. I use a hack saw blade to cut slots, sand well, round off corners, varnish inside, fine sand again the interior of the slots with 400 paper or so.


Thanks for your reply,
I thought pseudo taper was 'half looped' im talking full loop not that it makes a difference.

Ive seen that slot method before looks good but im staying away from flats, too much messing about for not enough longevity.

I think im going to go for ring attachment for a change .

Thanks susi


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