# sturdy slingshot



## Ted (May 27, 2011)

Here is a sturdy slingshot:
- Fork made from mild steel flat bar (3/16" x 1 1/4") from the hardware store, bent, drilled, filed, and sanded, inspired by Joerg's 6 circles design.
- Rubber band chain made from platinum crepe #32, inspired by Nico.
- Pouch cut from pigskin/cowhide leather from Rayshot. 
- Handle of hard maple.
- Stainless carriage bolt (5/16" x 4") to attach the fork to the handle. The bolt goes all the way through the handle. There is a nut inside the top of the handle to hold the fork tight against the bolt head, and another nut and washer in the bottom of the handle to hold the bolt tight against the handle.
- Paracord tabs for attaching the rubber band chain to the fork.

One of the photos shows the parts when disassembled. There's no epoxy; maybe later. Just under the head of the carriage bolt is square, so I filed the hole in the middle of the fork square to match. Because the fork is curved there, I cut a rectangular leather washer (to go between the fork and the bolt head) and a round leather washer (to go between the fork and the handle) to help fill the gaps.


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## flippinout (Jul 16, 2010)

Very cool take on the 'circles' design. How does it shoot?


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

Looks like a good fit to your hand, and nice low forks. Good job!

Cheers ....... Charles


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## Ted (May 27, 2011)

I've just begun to shoot it, but so far it shoots well. The round bolt head sticks up just a little from the center of the fork. If I find the pouch hits the bolt head often, I could bend the fork more (to get a smaller radius) in the vise to raise the fork height. I also thought of attaching flat bands to the ends of the fork instead of rubber band chains, and tying each band twice, through the two holes on each side of the fork, which would also raise the pouch above the bolt head a bit.


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## philly (Jun 13, 2010)

Awesome job, Ilike it alot. Nice use of easily purchased materials. You done good Bud.
Philly


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## Tex-Shooter (Dec 17, 2009)

Very interesting! -- Tex


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

Super! I love it!!!


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## PebbleShooter (Jul 6, 2011)

That is an excellent design, what a great way to attach the rubber aswell.


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## Nico (Sep 10, 2010)

I really like the design Ted! Kick ass slingshot!

You should be able to easily bag some rabbits with those chains, I know I have many times now









Very good work!

Nico


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

Ted said:


> I've just begun to shoot it, but so far it shoots well. The round bolt head sticks up just a little from the center of the fork. If I find the pouch hits the bolt head often, I could bend the fork more (to get a smaller radius) in the vise to raise the fork height. I also thought of attaching flat bands to the ends of the fork instead of rubber band chains, and tying each band twice, through the two holes on each side of the fork, which would also raise the pouch above the bolt head a bit.


Could you not use a countersunk bolt to solve the bolt head problem ?


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## mckee (Oct 28, 2010)

Brilliant job i really like this!


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## Ted (May 27, 2011)

Thanks all. Tubeman, using a countersunk bolt is a great idea. That would have saved all the filing of that square hole in the fork.

I was wondering if without epoxy the fork would rotate back and forth any while in use. But it doesn't since the nut at the bottom of the handle can be tightened pretty tight. To make sure that nut doesn't come off, I also got a stop nut with some nylon(?) inside the threads to put on the end of the bolt, but it isn't necessary.

I've shot it with 1/2" steel balls and .44 cal lead, and will try clay balls today while out hiking. I got a 10 lb. box of clay which is enough for a few hundred 3/4" balls for about 2 cents each. In the photo I put one .44 cal lead ball for comparison.


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## e~shot (Jun 3, 2010)

Very nice one


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

Ted said:


> Thanks all. Tubeman, using a countersunk bolt is a great idea. That would have saved all the filing of that square hole in the fork.
> 
> I was wondering if without epoxy the fork would rotate back and forth any while in use. But it doesn't since the nut at the bottom of the handle can be tightened pretty tight. To make sure that nut doesn't come off, I also got a stop nut with some nylon(?) inside the threads to put on the end of the bolt, but it isn't necessary.
> 
> I've shot it with 1/2" steel balls and .44 cal lead, and will try clay balls today while out hiking. I got a 10 lb. box of clay which is enough for a few hundred 3/4" balls for about 2 cents each. In the photo I put one .44 cal lead ball for comparison.


Looks like a melon baller would be good for making your clay ammo


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## Ted (May 27, 2011)

Yes, I tried that first, but the melon baller I had is deeper, so the clay stuck to the inside and I had to scrape it out. Using a teaspoon and hand-rolling worked OK.

This clay isn't messy to work with. It air dries in less than a day and the clay balls fly well when shot. And with a fork hit, they just disintegrate, no ricochet. I think heavier ammo (stones, lead) would be better for hunting.


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