# How to laminate naturals (Part 3)



## Tom Kretschmer (Apr 4, 2013)

Hi Fellows,

here's the third and last part of my laminating-tutorial http://slingshotforum.com/topic/24454-how-to-laminate-naturals-part-1/

I'm tired today, so i will start quickly without beating around the bush.

To give this catty more stability i'll add a laminatet spacer trough the whole fork. For this i make a 5-layer laminate with one 3mm strong beech-wood in the middle and four 0,8mm veneers of different woods and stick them crosswise together. I make it a bit bigger than the catty's dimensions.



















Now i cut it into halves and sand the surfaces plane.



















I stick one half with the dried spacer together and wait about an hour. Then i cut out the approximate shape and mill it on an improved router-table. For this i used a copy milling cutter in a router, upside down.

*Take care of your fingers!!!*




























Now i do the same thing with the other part. In the picture below you can see the result beside another project.










Next step is the (pseudo)-pinning. Pseudo, because there is not really a pinning function. It's just an eyecatcher. I drilled some holes, as pins i used brass pipes. To glue them, i sand them a bit, cleaned it with acetone, then i take some 2K-Epoxy and applied it with a toothpicker direct into the holes. If you do this on the pins, the epoxy will stay outside the holes by putting them in.

Now use a small hammer to gently tap them into the holes. It's necessary to make some small chamfers on the pipes, otherwise there could be the risk, that some pieces of wood split away on the downside.

If the epoxy has hardened, grind the overlapping pins.




























I mill some grooves for the band attachement, with a 4mm Dremel ball cutter on the drill press. Here i used an steel bar as guide rail.



















On the router again, i used a bullnose endmill for the curvature.










Everyone should figure out, what follows as next: sandig, sanding and sanding again 
I sand it up to 240 grit, make it wet, let it dry (with this procedure, little fibres of wood gets erected :question: ) It's not, how it sounds like :nono: .
240 grit again and then i use some 320 abrassive fleece.










At least i will apply a few layers of hard-waxoil and polish it using a rotating cloth-covered wheel. (not happened yet)
I don't know why, but i don't like high-gloss vanish on wood, i like it more "natural".

So, that's it. I hope it was reasonably understandable and informative. I'll go to bed now and i'm afraid i'll dream in bad english tonight 

So, happy slingshot making and God bless you, my friends.

And remember: We don't make mistakes here, we just have happy accidents.

Kind Regards,
Tom


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## stej (Jan 16, 2013)

Awesome tutorial series. It looks so easy. Just do this and that, saw, drill, ok.. now some pins.. and you are done. Would be great if it was so easy in real life. Also with such great results


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## Tom Kretschmer (Apr 4, 2013)

It's easy. If it is difficult for you, then you're doing something wrong 

"Bob Ross"

Seriously, this one takes about 20 hours of work, without the finishing.

I still have luck to have all this machines at work. without them, it would take a bit longer.

And its really not so difficult. I build slingshots since about three months. Normaly i'm a metal-worker. It' s a learning by doing process.


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## stej (Jan 16, 2013)

scarfaceTom said:


> It's easy. If it is difficult for you, then you're doing something wrong
> 
> "Bob Ross"
> 
> ...


Sure, I know. Sometimes the most difficult part is to decide to try it


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## Btoon84 (Nov 22, 2011)

Thanks for taking the time to put these up. Priceless info, obvious to some, but to others a huge help. As stated before, many people learn by seeing. and just simply seeing how you did this will surely help someone! You do great work sir.


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## Imperial (Feb 9, 2011)

i really enjoyed this tutorial of yours, lots of information. BOB ROSS would be proud of you, as happy as a happy tree.


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## trobbie66 (May 13, 2012)

Absolutely awesome tutorial. It was neat watching it evolve from a fork and checkerboard bits n pieces of wood into one of the most beautiful cattys I have seen! Your work is as good as the best craftsmen here. Glad you caught the bug!!!!


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## ash (Apr 23, 2013)

Amazing creativity. I love the ladder motif on the other shooter. You're going to force me to think harder about design and complexity.


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## bigron (Nov 29, 2012)

someone has a new slingshot crush :wub: :wub:


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## Mister Magpie (Apr 10, 2013)

now that is German engineering!


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## NoobShooter (Sep 15, 2012)

4mm Dremel ball cutter is on my shopping list. I hate making Band grooves.. Nice work Tom..


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## leon13 (Oct 4, 2012)

well another dream catcher,u really rock

ps:3month and u have that outcome,wonder what we see in a year.

Cant wait !!!!!!!!


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## e~shot (Jun 3, 2010)

NoobShooter said:


> 4mm Dremel ball cutter is on my shopping list. I hate making Band grooves.. Nice work Tom..


that is the exact bit I'm looking for... I tried with 3mm drill bit bot no good results. Dremel bits are very expensive.. I'm looking at this one now linky


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## alfshooter (May 11, 2011)

The technique and patience, is the mother of science.

thanks,,,, Alf


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## Danny0663 (Mar 15, 2011)

Amazing work! wow ... thanks for the detailed tutorials.


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## Mr.Teh (Feb 28, 2012)

Wow this slinga is just perfect laminat work,

and thank you for this awesome tutorial, a lot of good infos.

you rocks Tom :headbang: you rocks....!!!


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

Thank you for taking the time. I learned a lot.


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## f00by (May 18, 2010)

Steel bar rail guide with the dremel ball on your dp is a nice idea i may have to steal


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