# Wood rasps



## Sean (Nov 17, 2011)

Being new to this hobby, I found myself today with my first board cutout and thinking I'd be safer
using hand power rather than power tools for shaping the template into form, I dug into my modest
tool chest and found I really had only two wood rasps a round one, and a really aggressive semi-
round.

I was wondering which rasps you guys find you use often and if you want to include a picture of
some go ahead. I should go and grab a couple more I think I might find it easier on some of the
shapes. Thanks.


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## M.J (Nov 1, 2010)

I almost always use a 4-in-hand rasp. Agressive on one side, mill file on the other, flat and hemispherical .








Interesting note: if you type "4 in hand rasp" into Google images one of the top results is a picture from this forum


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

Look no further, MJ is correct. All you really need.


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## pop shot (Sep 29, 2011)

trade you some of those maple forks for a 4 in 1... that and some sandpaper is all you need.


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

... and a folding saw, a knife, and a piece of broken glass.


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## Sean (Nov 17, 2011)

pop shot said:


> trade you some of those maple forks for a 4 in 1... that and some sandpaper is all you need.


Hey, Tell you what, pm me with your name and address and I'll send you some Maple forks on the house.
Don't worry about the 4 in 1 because it will probably cost you a fair bit for shipping. I'll pick
one up at the hardeware store locally.









And thanks guys for your help. Love this forum.

Sean


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## Karok01 (Jan 26, 2012)

I'll be asking for one of those 4-1 rasps for my birthday, I think!


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

might sound odd but, after my rasp work i use my regular half round file to do finer filing because the rasps are so aggressive.


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## bbshooter (Jun 3, 2010)

A person can use sandpaper, in different grits, wrapped around any shape, round to square to achieve their sanding/wood removal needs. At the present time I am using 100 and 220 grit sandpaper. A rat tail wood rasp and a chain saw file for cutting the grooves for the band tie down completes the set.


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## Litebow (Dec 17, 2011)

newconvert said:


> might sound odd but, after my rasp work i use my regular half round file to do finer filing because the rasps are so aggressive.


It doesnt sound odd to me. Thats the same thing I do. First the rasp, then the mill file, then 60 sandpaper. Of course, before I started making slingshots a few months ago I never did any woodworking. So if mill files are not suppose to be for wood, I was not hindered by such knowledge. I will say that never having done woodworking before, I am enjoying rasping and filing away at a piece of wood and turning it into something that feels good in my hand. Smells good too! Its been a nice addition to my retirement activities.

Dave


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

Litebow said:


> might sound odd but, after my rasp work i use my regular half round file to do finer filing because the rasps are so aggressive.


It doesnt sound odd to me. Thats the same thing I do. First the rasp, then the mill file, then 60 sandpaper. Of course, before I started making slingshots a few months ago I never did any woodworking. So if mill files are not suppose to be for wood, I was not hindered by such knowledge. I will say that never having done woodworking before, I am enjoying rasping and filing away at a piece of wood and turning it into something that feels good in my hand. Smells good too! Its been a nice addition to my retirement activities.

Dave
[/quote]100% agree


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## Gwilym (Dec 9, 2010)

IK would strongly reccomend the shinto saw rasp. Its got a rough and a fine side and is brilliant for making forks


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## pop shot (Sep 29, 2011)

u gotta try the iwasaki medium wood file. the cut is like a mill file but more aggressive, and leaves a planed surface if the grain direction is right.


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## Rockape66 (Dec 18, 2011)

For walking sticks, staves, and anything I need to really remove wood (sic..log built SS), I use a farriers rasp. Then clean up with a 4-in-1 and sandpaper.


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## akmslingshots (Mar 2, 2012)

i use a BAHCO second cut rasp and love it so much made a leather pouch for it! then a set of files followed by sanding


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## Iryman (Feb 12, 2012)

They way I do it is, in order: Saw, knife, half-round and round rasp, sandpaper 60 through to 240 grit. Works well enough for me, and not too costly either.


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## The Gopher (Aug 25, 2010)

being a bowyer i am quite familiar with rasps and have a fairly biased opinion on them. I don't like 4 in 1 or 4 in hand rasps. I should say i don't like them now, they used to be a lot better. First of all you need to think of a rasp as one of the most useful woodworking tools you will own, not a dispensable tool like sandpaper. Once you get around this then go ahead and buy a nicholson #49 or #50 half round wood rasp and take care of it. Like someoen else mentioned, if you really want to hog off wood use a farriers rasp, and for detail work use a half round double cut, with these three you can conquer the slingshot world! If you are interested here is an article I wrote on rasps for an archery magazine.


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

The Gopher said:


> being a bowyer i am quite familiar with rasps and have a fairly biased opinion on them. I don't like 4 in 1 or 4 in hand rasps. I should say i don't like them now, they used to be a lot better. First of all you need to think of a rasp as one of the most useful woodworking tools you will own, not a dispensable tool like sandpaper. Once you get around this then go ahead and buy a nicholson #49 or #50 half round wood rasp and take care of it. Like someoen else mentioned, if you really want to hog off wood use a farriers rasp, and for detail work use a half round double cut, with these three you can conquer the slingshot world! If you are interested here is an article I wrote on rasps for an archery magazine.


a published author! i am impressed. i agree with you on your article and you 3 tool strategy, once you learn how tols are used you start fing ways to make less and less tolls work to do the same things, you thin out the ones that really work from the ones that do but 1 can serve both purposes. having large supplies of tools is ok, but not necessary.


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## Jaxter (Jan 23, 2012)

The Gopher said:


> being a bowyer i am quite familiar with rasps and have a fairly biased opinion on them. I don't like 4 in 1 or 4 in hand rasps. I should say i don't like them now, they used to be a lot better. First of all you need to think of a rasp as one of the most useful woodworking tools you will own, not a dispensable tool like sandpaper. Once you get around this then go ahead and buy a nicholson #49 or #50 half round wood rasp and take care of it. Like someoen else mentioned, if you really want to hog off wood use a farriers rasp, and for detail work use a half round double cut, with these three you can conquer the slingshot world! If you are interested here is an article I wrote on rasps for an archery magazine.


Thanks for this post I read the whole thing and I don't yet have any rasps so before I buy any rasps I will read it again, thanks.


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

Jaxter said:


> being a bowyer i am quite familiar with rasps and have a fairly biased opinion on them. I don't like 4 in 1 or 4 in hand rasps. I should say i don't like them now, they used to be a lot better. First of all you need to think of a rasp as one of the most useful woodworking tools you will own, not a dispensable tool like sandpaper. Once you get around this then go ahead and buy a nicholson #49 or #50 half round wood rasp and take care of it. Like someoen else mentioned, if you really want to hog off wood use a farriers rasp, and for detail work use a half round double cut, with these three you can conquer the slingshot world! If you are interested here is an article I wrote on rasps for an archery magazine.


Thanks for this post I read the whole thing and I don't yet have any rasps so before I buy any rasps I will read it again, thanks.
[/quote]wise man, not everyone will take solid advise.


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## The Gopher (Aug 25, 2010)

If you are going to spend money on one nice woodrasp I highly recommend either the Nicholson #49 or #50, they will run about 50 bucks each. I know this sounds like a lot, but you will think it a bargain when you use one. And take care of it, don't throw it in a tool chest with other metal tools that will dull the teeth. Here are my rules of using an expensive rasp.

1. use a handle, more than safety, it keeps your oils off the rasp, wearing gloves also keeps oils off.
2. when not in use store it in an old sock. 
3. don't use a file card unless it really gets clogged, use a plastic bristle brush instead.

If you follow these rules you will enjoy many years of use from a quality rasp.


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## pop shot (Sep 29, 2011)

i splurged on a few iwasaki medium cut rasps recently, the half round and flat 150 mm (5" cutting surface) and flat and half round 200 mm full size with tang. best investment in a while. ii dipped and brushed them with linseed oil to keep rust at bay. even stainless steel will develop surface rust here. (i live 1 block from the windward facing shore of the pacific) and i keep them in their own leather roll that i made. i may check out those nicholsons though. love me some quality tools.


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## pop shot (Sep 29, 2011)

i got these, the medium cut. floats, i guess. i use the ones with the black handle and the 200 mm ones. i have a farrier's rasp, i may try that for my next monster kiawe fork.
http://thebestthings.com/newtools/iwasaki_floats.htm


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

The Gopher said:


> If you are interested here is an article I wrote on rasps for an archery magazine.


Thanks Dan. I'm interested. I like the rasp, or "the German milling machine" as some gun makers call it.


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## harson (Oct 21, 2011)

Dayhiker said:


> ... and a folding saw, a knife, and a piece of broken glass.


 Whats the glass for ?


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## harson (Oct 21, 2011)

M_J said:


> I almost always use a 4-in-hand rasp. Agressive on one side, mill file on the other, flat and hemispherical .
> 
> Interesting note: if you type "4 in hand rasp" into Google images one of the top results is a picture from this forum


Where can i buy one of these i have searched amazon in the uk where i live and some stores but cant find one


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## pop shot (Sep 29, 2011)

nicholson makes a good one. iwasaki makes a really good half round and flat float/rasp.


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## rockslinger (Nov 16, 2010)

harson said:


> ... and a folding saw, a knife, and a piece of broken glass.


 Whats the glass for ?
[/quote] Glass makes a great scraper.


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## Rockape66 (Dec 18, 2011)

Just got the shinto saw rasp. Love the way it cuts. Careful though; it eats flesh like it does wood.


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

Rockape66 said:


> Just got the shinto saw rasp. Love the way it cuts. Careful though; it eats flesh like it does wood.


lol all tools work better on flesh than they do on wood


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## Jaxter (Jan 23, 2012)

I was searching the web for a Nicholson #49 and couldn't find one that I could buy in Australia to cut back on the bumping around in transport. anyway long story short I found these Auriou rasps and they have ones that are like the Nicholson rasps, does anyone have one if so how good are they 'cause I am looking to buy one and they are around $90 and I don't want to get one if it isn't worth it. Thanks


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## Berkshire bred (Mar 4, 2012)

i have always found that as long as you are willing to take your time you can do most things with a sharp locking knife, a flat file,a round file and some different types of sand paper this is all i have ever used and i am coping more than well.


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

Litebow said:


> might sound odd but, after my rasp work i use my regular half round file to do finer filing because the rasps are so aggressive.


It doesnt sound odd to me. Thats the same thing I do. First the rasp, then the mill file, then 60 sandpaper. Of course, before I started making slingshots a few months ago I never did any woodworking. So if mill files are not suppose to be for wood, I was not hindered by such knowledge. I will say that never having done woodworking before, I am enjoying rasping and filing away at a piece of wood and turning it into something that feels good in my hand. Smells good too! Its been a nice addition to my retirement activities.

Dave
[/quote]you are correct sir, hobbies are perfect things for whittlingaway at the day, plus i am getting in te habit of giving them to kids with their parents approval of course.


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

Berkshire bred said:


> i have always found that as long as you are willing to take your time you can do most things with a sharp locking knife, a flat file,a round file and some different types of sand paper this is all i have ever used and i am coping more than well.


yup its about skill not speed, but once you develop the skills than its natural to gain speed


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

harson said:


> ... and a folding saw, a knife, and a piece of broken glass.


 Whats the glass for ?
[/quote]scraping


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## Dr J (Apr 22, 2013)

I used a Craftsman 4 in 1 rasp for years. About a week ago I got these and their performance was outstanding. They are Tungsten Carbide. Carbide half round and flat, flat and round .


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## quemado (May 10, 2013)

Jaxter said:


> I was searching the web for a Nicholson #49 and couldn't find one that I could buy in Australia to cut back on the bumping around in transport. anyway long story short I found these Auriou rasps and they have ones that are like the Nicholson rasps, does anyone have one if so how good are they 'cause I am looking to buy one and they are around $90 and I don't want to get one if it isn't worth it. Thanks


I was reading about Auriou rasps yesterday. They are handmade in France, one of the few family tool makers still making rasps. I doubt I will ever own one as they are very expensive, almost selling by the ounce. They are handcut which is preferable to machine cut, and I understand, worth every penny if you want the best, or one of the best.


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## Underachiever (Oct 17, 2013)

Gwilym said:


> IK would strongly reccomend the shinto saw rasp. Its got a rough and a fine side and is brilliant for making forks


I´ve just purchased a Shinto Planer Type Saw Rasp and I´m looking forward to work with this Tool! Thanks for the recommendation mate!









Here´s a link to this interesting Tool: http://www.google.de/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.duckworksbbs.com%2Ftools%2Fshinto%2Franch-pics-2009-006.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.duckworksbbs.com%2Ftools%2Fshinto%2F&h=360&w=480&tbnid=ON8DCpACqVYDgM%3A&zoom=1&docid=N-nJS6l6rkj4kM&ei=tWCCVZS8BobD7gazmoHQDQ&tbm=isch&client=firefox-a&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=3910&page=1&start=0&ndsp=33&ved=0CCkQrQMwAw

All the best,

Luke


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## Slingshot Silas (Apr 4, 2013)

Dayhiker said:


> ... and a folding saw, a knife, and a piece of broken glass.


and a machine shop! I use the glass to cut my hair.


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## Metropolicity (Aug 22, 2013)

I use a couple of different ones but my main ones are a fine cut Iwasaki razor file (half round and flat), a 1/2" half round xtra fine Nicholson file and a 1/8" chainsaw file (also fine tooth)

My router does a lot of the heavy lifting.


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## tyrone8511 (May 2, 2014)

Dayhiker said:


> ... and a folding saw, a knife, and a piece of broken glass.


This is a cool thread, what is the broken glass for


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

tyrone8511 said:


> Dayhiker said:
> 
> 
> > ... and a folding saw, a knife, and a piece of broken glass.
> ...


scraping away the tool marks and the scratches from the sandpaper


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## tyrone8511 (May 2, 2014)

Oh ok cool now I learnt something new too, I would have use a knife to try that, so you can just use any piece of broken glass or should it be a certain thickness or a certain shape


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