# LINSEED OIL VS BEESWAX



## Nicholson

I was into the natural look of the birch wood. The most I did on my fork was use wood stain on a couple slingshots. Now I'm almost going against my better judgement and buying every beautiful shiney slingshot I see.

So, while I was in a hurry I stopped by a fred meyer with the intention of getting linseed oil, I had to come right back out though. All they had was a beeswax finish or polish. I was in a hurry so I was unable to read it and find out what it does. I know most people use linseed oil but is beeswax just as good? Or.. is there an ultimate turn your fork into a "diamond" type polish? I'll be using some stain on the wood first I think. Maybe, maybe not. But I bought some cherry oak stain for my oak board. I'll be using mostly birch naturals for beautifacation though. So, I guess my actual question is.. what are the steps for turning my fork from a plain, dull piece. To a bright, and sharp looking Piece of art.


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## rockslinger

If you want shiney thy super glue. Flippinout gives great instructions in the tutorial section.


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## Nicholson

can you give me a tag, or how can I get there?


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## Henry the Hermit

Everyone has his preferred method. When I want a smooth, satiny finish, I sand to 600 grit, apply several coats of Watco Teak Oil (be sure to follow directions on the can) sand again, then 3 or more thin coats of spray clear lacquer. I usually sand between coats of lacquer, when I try to finish too quickly and get runs. Here's a sample.





  








RingShooter #8




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Henry the Hermit


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Nov 7, 2012


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4



Nispero, 7 inches tall 2 3/4 inches between ring tops. Finished with Teak Oil and 3 coats of...


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## ruthiexxxx

Several coats of Rustin's Danish Oil rubbing down between each coat. A final buff with some beeswax is good.


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## Caribbean_Comanche

Nicholson said:


> can you give me a tag, or how can I get there?


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## Dayhiker

Try stain then tung oil if linseed or beeswax is not shiny enough for you. Shiniest is CA glue, but it can crack whereas oils don't.


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## VillageSniper

I have some gym floor finish from work, high gloss and high traction, can be sanded to perfection after several coats. It is very durable. Linseed oil looks nice and soft. My friend has used two coats of rubbed in linseed oil on mil surp gun stocks followed by the Fin mix or Tom's 1/3 mix he came across on the web, which i believe was equal parts linseed oil, turpentine and bees wax. Makes a creamy wax that buffs into the wood. Looks soft and natural. You might look into Tru-oil which is polymerized linseed oil, which hardens as a film and can be coated as many times as you wish during process and later for touch ups, buffing with Liberon 0000 steel wool and tacking with mineral spirits when needed. Very popular in gun stock world and is applied with fingers thinnly. Will achieve high gloss unless buffed down with same steel wool to dull as final step. Tru-oil is inexpensive and pretty darn nice. Also used for guitars, lathe turned pens, you name it


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## Btoon84

Nothin wrong with beeswax bro. Very practical for a slinger. Feels great on the hands. I use Steinway Mellow Beeswax. I also love BLO.


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