# Your best tool tip



## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

OldSchool said "

It would be nice to have a 1 stop thread dedicated to tools and tips to make our hobby easier and even more enjoyable."

I think that would be great. A chance to discover wonderful new tools that our fellow SS makers have discovered. Perhaps if we each gave one recommendation at a time combined with a mini review.

I'll kick off with the SHINTO SAW RASP. It' widely available and reasonably priced. Made up from several hacksaw blades, it removes wood as fast as anyone can wish, with its course side ,and has a finer side too (also pretty effective). Apart from power tools I don't think there's anything else on the market as effective as this for shaping. Perfect for working on naturals.


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

ooops 'coArse side' !


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## bigron (Nov 29, 2012)

thats pretty sweet but just like other things i have seen that you own kind of scary


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

bigron said:


> thats pretty sweet but just like other things i have seen that you own kind of scary


well, they certainly need to be handled with care Ron. A graze from one of these takes off a lot of skin !


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## MagicTorch100 (Jun 4, 2013)

That looks pretty useful Ruthie. I may have to invest once I've topped up Paypal.

I like the post idea, afraid I only use 2 items at the moment (don't include sand paper).

I'll post a new thread though and also add a few notes.


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## pop shot (Sep 29, 2011)

a card scraper and flex rasp


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

pop shot said:


> a card scraper and flex rasp


a flex rasp sounds interesting. Do you have a pic ?


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## NicklePanda (Feb 17, 2013)

I may have to invest in that Shinto saw rasp. Sounds promising. Especially since I have some hefty forks that I'll be working on. Any good site for em, Ruthie? Thanks in advance. 
-Leo


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

NicklePanda said:


> I may have to invest in that Shinto saw rasp. Sounds promising. Especially since I have some hefty forks that I'll be working on. Any good site for em, Ruthie? Thanks in advance.
> -Leo


Amazon have got them


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## ash (Apr 23, 2013)

My tool tips of the week are about sandpaper.

These are the dry sandpaper grits I use:

P80 - Rarely used, but it a useful substitute for a blade, rasp or file when glued to a flat board or stick.

P120 - Usually my first sanding step. Light shaping and cleaning up tool marks from rasps, knives and routers.

P180 - Refining shapes and curves, removing 120 grit scratches.

P240 - Removing 180 grit scratches, softening edges and corners, making everything smooth.

P320 - Removing 240 grit scratches, usually the last step before a sprayed finish.

P400 - Occasionally used for woods that look like they could use a bit more care.

P600 - Last dry sanding grit before oiling begins. Sometimes you can skip P400.

Sandpaper over P400 is usually of the wet or dry type. I use:

P600 - on metal or when I can't find P600 dry.

P800/1000 - An intermediate stage in metal polishing only.

P1200 - I go straight to P1200 when polishing sprayed lacquer. Intermediate oil finish coats are wet sanded with oil and P1200 two or three times.

P1500/2000 I almost never use these, I go to buffing compounds straight from P1200.

If you only want to buy a few grades, I'd suggest P120, 220, 320 for general woodwork needs and P600 + 1200 for oil finishing.

If your sandpaper doesn't have the "P" before the grit number, it it probably a CAMI grading system. More or less the same under 600, slightly different above that. Google has more info.

Use a sanding block wherever practical. Cork or firm foam are best. Cut packing foam to whatever shape you need.


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## NicklePanda (Feb 17, 2013)

ruthiexxxx said:


> NicklePanda said:
> 
> 
> > I may have to invest in that Shinto saw rasp. Sounds promising. Especially since I have some hefty forks that I'll be working on. Any good site for em, Ruthie? Thanks in advance.
> ...


Thanks Ruthie I went and pulled the trigger. I hope to see these barks fall off the fork at the site of this saw rasp. Hahah. *fingers crossed* ????
-Leo


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## All Buns Glazing (Apr 22, 2012)

My best tool tip is: keep your tools sharp, keep your fingers clear.


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

NicklePanda said:


> ruthiexxxx said:
> 
> 
> > NicklePanda said:
> ...


I think you'll be pleased


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## studer1972 (Mar 17, 2013)

Foam sanding blocks. Great for getting into tight nooks and crannies and for that last "make sure there's no splinters" before I run my fingertips around the edges to make sure there's no splinters.

Rotary cutting tool for bands. It doesn't even feel like it's making a cut, but the cuts are laser precise when I'm finished (and I'm a 10 thumbed lug).

Grinding and rasp drill bits. A lot easier than sanding and filing for the coarse post saw shaping. Saves wear and tear on the wrists and fingers.

Round file. Only way I can make the band attachment grooves on the fork tips.


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## ceedub (Apr 22, 2013)

I have a half round bastard rasp that works just as good on brass and aluminium as it does on wood. If you work it with the grain right you almost done even half to sand. I couldn't do much of anything without it.


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## NicklePanda (Feb 17, 2013)

Well I just received my Shinto Saw Rasp and tested it out a bit. It definitely works a lot better than any of the rasp that I have. The forks that are waiting to dry are currently shivering in fear!!! Hahah. Thanks again Ruthie for introducing me to this lovely tool!!! ????
-Leo


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

NicklePanda said:


> NicklePanda, on 28 Jul 2013 - 07:24 AM, said:
> Well I just received my Shinto Saw Rasp and tested it out a bit. It definitely works a lot better than any of the rasp that I have. The forks that are waiting to dry are currently shivering in fear!!! Hahah. Thanks again Ruthie for introducing me to this lovely tool!!!
> -Leo


glad you like it... it does make life easier !


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## JetBlack (Mar 9, 2012)

How does it do(Shinto) with plastics or other materials?


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

JetBlack said:


> How does it do(Shinto) with plastics or other materials?


I'll give it a try and get back to you


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

ruthiexxxx said:


> ruthiexxxx, on 29 Jul 2013 - 07:11 AM, said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've just tried it on a couple of different types of plastic ( a chopping board and a tool handle) and it dealt with them very effectively. I suspect one could use it on soft metals too although how that would affect blade life I don't know)


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## JetBlack (Mar 9, 2012)

Thanks chopping boards prob hdpe that's what I was hoping for, going to get one next week


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

Here's another option. I'm not overly fond of power tools...but I'm not overly fond of hard, monotonous work either.

Confronted with a fat billet of some tropical hardwood (reclaimed!) I dug out a couple of things from when I sculpted in wood, both for use in a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder.

The one on the right is called an 'ARBOTECH'. Basically it is a triple rotating chisel and it removes wood SCARY FAST (sending off a stream of woodchips to the acute discomfort of anyone standing to the right of it! ). There are several versions including one with replaceable tungsden carbide chisels and a miniature version that goes in a special adaptor for the angle grinder.

The other , shown in the angle grinder, is a doughnut of steel with little tungsden carbide grains bronze sintered to it. It also removes wood fast but more manageably for finer shaping than the Arbotech.

I hate screaming machines but with these two I don't have to put up with it for long!


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

It has been awhile since anyone posted something here so I thought I kick it once.

I am working on a little project and I reached the stage in sanding where I started to do something that barely think about. I reached into my box of stuff and got my pack of emery boards. I thought, "Wait a minute. I haven't told anyone about this." I usually go to the Dollar store and buy the 36 piece pack of emery boards for my fine sanding. They range from about 1/4" to 1/2" wide, Vary from coarse fine and are double sided. You can just about polish the wood with them. Cheap, effective, versatile.

Thought I would share.

Happy Shootin'!


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## JetBlack (Mar 9, 2012)

I'm in line waiting for a pizza so here's a quick one, crazy glue thin strips of sandpaper to old wooden dowels of different diameterand you have sanding sticks, Very useful I promise


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## JetBlack (Mar 9, 2012)

Here's a pic I had, holding glued strips with mini pony clamps


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

I use pencils and pens for small curves and roll newspaper into various sizes and wrap them in sandpaper from 60 grit to 1200. You can have a rasp in any size you like Paint stirrers wit any paper around it makes great flat rasps. Flat to make round and round to make flat.


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## eggy22 (Feb 3, 2013)

a nice topic


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## MagicTorch100 (Jun 4, 2013)

Useful stuff guys. I do similar with 60, 120 and > 300 grit paper. I like the emery board idea, I'll have to give that ago.


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## Withak (Aug 26, 2013)

flipgun said:


> It has been awhile since anyone posted something here so I thought I kick it once.
> 
> I am working on a little project and I reached the stage in sanding where I started to do something that barely think about. I reached into my box of stuff and got my pack of emery boards. I thought, "Wait a minute. I haven't told anyone about this." I usually go to the Dollar store and buy the 36 piece pack of emery boards for my fine sanding. They range from about 1/4" to 1/2" wide, Vary from coarse fine and are double sided. You can just about polish the wood with them. Cheap, effective, versatile.
> 
> ...





JetBlack said:


> I'm in line waiting for a pizza so here's a quick one, crazy glue thin strips of sandpaper to old wooden dowels of different diameterand you have sanding sticks, Very useful I promise





flipgun said:


> I use pencils and pens for small curves and roll newspaper into various sizes and wrap them in sandpaper from 60 grit to 1200. You can have a rasp in any size you like Paint stirrers wit any paper around it makes great flat rasps. Flat to make round and round to make flat.


Good ideas guys!


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

I have another. I am a TRU-oil believer. The stuff is cheap, easy, durable and looks great. But this is not about that. I like Shiny. So I was always looking for a way to make any finish brighter, Nathan @ Flippinout and others use White Diamond polishing compound. Sounds expensive and a lot of work. Maybe not. Don't care. Sounds that way. I am all about cheap and easy, (work and women) anyway: Toothpaste is both. After my finish dries and cures I will squeeze some whitening toothpaste onto a saucer. Then I will add a few drops of some oil. olive, mineral, patchouli, to the paste and make a slurry. Rub it onto your finished sling. As you rub it on it will seize up and dry to a film. Keep pushing it until it won't move. Lay the frame on a towel and start rubbing the paste off. It will grab the towel at first and suddenly give up and you can buff the rest off and get a high gloss shine. You do this a couple of times and then run water over it and buff again to get the residue off. Shines like new money!

Hope this works for you!


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## ash (Apr 23, 2013)

ruthiexxxx said:


> The one on the right is called an 'ARBOTECH'. Basically it is a triple rotating chisel and it removes wood SCARY FAST (sending off a stream of woodchips to the acute discomfort of anyone standing to the right of it! ).


I have one of those for guitar shaping. It's fantastic, but you're quite right - SCARY FAST if you get into the wood at too steep an angle. I must find and try one of the carbide loaded discs. They look like they'd be more controllable.



JetBlack said:


> Here's a pic I had, holding glued strips with mini pony clamps


I do a similar thing to make a drill-press mounted sander. A 1/2" maple dowel with a slot cut down the middle by a fine blade. Slide one end of a strip of sandpaper into the slot and bind up the free end with tape. Wrap the sandpaper around the rod and use it in the drill as a skinny drum sander. As the exposed sandpaper surface wears out you can just tear it off like toilet paper to reveal a fresh sanding surface.


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## wombat (Jun 10, 2011)

I missed this thread. but anyway my tip for the day! After you've cut your sandpaper into usable squares, put a strip of duct tape onto the back, your paper will last 10 times as long.

Okay second tip....When you think you've finished sanding, take it out into the sun. and then go back and sand all those bits that you missed!!


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## matthiasdaues (Aug 16, 2013)

Hmm. Good tips already regarding polish and sanding. Here's my tuppence worth for cutting and shaping:

1. Harvesting forks and cutting them to length - A retractable saw, like the one I have from Fiskars.

2. Shaping - Iwasaki Carving Files (search on google for their respective availability).

3. In lieu of a work bench, a simple big cutting board.

The fork is what has become "Ips, in memoriam"


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## stej (Jan 16, 2013)

matthiasdaues said:


> Hmm. Good tips already regarding polish and sanding. Here's my tuppence worth for cutting and shaping:
> 
> 1. Harvesting forks and cutting them to length - A retractable saw, like the one I have from Fiskars.
> 
> ...


Why the Iwasaki Carving Files are better then ordinary files that we all know? Is it something like rasp but finer?


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

I'm curious how they are cut too. any chance of a macro shot of the teeth ?


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## matthiasdaues (Aug 16, 2013)

stej said:


> matthiasdaues said:
> 
> 
> > Hmm. Good tips already regarding polish and sanding. Here's my tuppence worth for cutting and shaping:
> ...


This "file" is more like many tiny planes fixed on a metal plate:










This leaves a very smooth surface even when taking away a lot of material with a few strokes (rasp left, carving file right):










That's where they beat common rasps by a long stretch and it makes the sanding job a lot easier.

pictures used without license from this vendor's site: http://www.feinewerkzeuge.de/carvingfile.html


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## matthiasdaues (Aug 16, 2013)

ruthiexxxx said:


> I'm curious how they are cut too. any chance of a macro shot of the teeth ?


Here it is


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

Thank you for that. What interesting teeth ! Almost a cross between the microplanes and the handcut Italian rasps and rifflers.

Might be an idea for a xmas prezzie


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## matthiasdaues (Aug 16, 2013)

ruthiexxxx said:


> Thank you for that. What interesting teeth ! Almost a cross between the microplanes and the handcut Italian rasps and rifflers.
> 
> Might be an idea for a xmas prezzie


How are the microplanes? I have a microplane zester, but I'm loathe to try it out on wood 

Do they keep their edge?

Cheers, M.


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

Brilliantly...and they can be stropped too with care. It's the same design as the old Stanley Surform...except the microplanes cut much faster and for less effort. Some of the microplane blades are made to fit the standard Surform handles.


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## matthiasdaues (Aug 16, 2013)

ruthiexxxx said:


> Brilliantly...and they can be stropped too with care. It's the same design as the old Stanley Surform...except the microplanes cut much faster and for less effort. Some of the microplane blades are made to fit the standard Surform handles.


Well, then, I'll try it out. Should make a good job of smoothing the fork-tips, then


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## Something0riginal (Dec 30, 2014)

Hey I just found this thread died in 2013, so I guess I gotta bring it back. But yeah, I bought one of those shinto rasps for 20 bucks and its amazing, thanks for the tip. My best tool tip is make sure you have pony clamps of various sizes, they make just about everything easier. Have a good day and please post a cool trick or tip if you think of one.


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## JohnKrakatoa (Nov 28, 2013)

ruthiexxxx said:


> OldSchool said "
> 
> It would be nice to have a 1 stop thread dedicated to tools and tips to make our hobby easier and even more enjoyable."
> 
> ...


nice rasp, too bad that I cant find it anywhere here in Slovakia. Any good international sellers?


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## Something0riginal (Dec 30, 2014)

amazon


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## The Gopher (Aug 25, 2010)

I have a shinto and it is among my favorite tools for building traditional bows.

My favorite tools for naturals are far different than those for board cuts or customs.

A nice wood rasp like a Nicholson 49 or 50 is most useful.

I am beginning to fully appreciate the versatility of a dremel.

And I still love my old trusty scroll saw, it just keeps going and going.

But what about my routers and spindle sander?


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## Bali-Flipper32 (Aug 13, 2014)

I like to cut my sandpaper into one inch strips and back them with duct tape ( leaving 5 inches of tape on each end of the sandpaper). It allows for aggresive sanding and the sandpaper lasts way longer. Sanding this way is really good for rounding edges.


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## Bob E (Mar 23, 2015)

The Gopher said:


> ...But what about my routers ...?


Here's how I like to route small stuff. I got the idea years ago in a woodworking magazine.









A couple pieces of scrap board, two finishing nails and a screw. All clamped into place (the workmate is great).

You can also cut the top board into the shape of a template, and use a flush trim bit in the router :naughty:









Seat the finishing nails into the piece.









Route it holding your router in the normal way. (I like these older style routers. Simple, robust, and everybody else wants to get rid of them for the new models with all the flimsy bells and whistles : )








Normally the pin holes are left on the non show side of the piece, but with something like a slingshot you end up with them on both sides. You can use double sided tape to avoid it, but it's more of a PITA than it's worth IMHO.


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## Sanch (Jun 24, 2015)

SAFETY GLASSES #1 THEN ALL else follows


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## Toolshed (Aug 4, 2015)

Just came up with this one the other night, sorry no pics.

The sanding belt from my craftsman 6" belt sander, 'ripped' to appropriate width (this case was about a half inch), then twisted to form something of a tube. Put that through a hole and you have an INSIDE sanding rig. Just attach one end to something solid and pull the workpiece back and forth, or clamp down the workpiece and pull the rig back and forth.... I used this method to sand out holes I'd put into a new slingshot to pass the bands through.


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## JohnKrakatoa (Nov 28, 2013)

I got a shinto saw rasp finally! I found it on here:
www.dictum.com

For 17 € thid two sided rasp is a steal! Awesome tool.


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