# Anyone Use Hardwax Oils?



## Btoon84 (Nov 22, 2011)

about to order a 250ml can of this Fiddes Hardwax Oil.
http://www.environme...l-pr-16137.html
smallest size i can find and it cost about 30$ with shipping.

I've been wanting to try a wax based finish as opposed to the multiple polly coats i have been doing. i'm finding the polly coats are just too slippery for my liking.
From what i have read, this seems like it would be great for slings....


According to the site---
"A blend of natural oils & waxes offering exceptional durability & resistance for internal natural wood flooring, kitchen worktops (wood) and areas subjected to a high degree of wear.
Produces a quick drying, natural satin / matt water repellent, tread-fast finish that will not peel or flake. Easy application, no sanding between coats."

any input is awesome

Thanks
Brandon


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

that is very expensive! wow! you live in Fl. why order on line, go to a decent hardware "store" and look around, ask questions, you can find equal or better for cheaper, plus its a great way to learn about alternatives.


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## BIG PAPA (Nov 15, 2011)

If you're serious about trying something worthwhile in a wax finish, give Butchers Bowling Alley Wax a try.....it's inexpensive and gives any wood a wonderful finish...comes in several different sheens. Should be able to find it at just about any good hardware store.


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## Jim Williams (Jul 6, 2011)

I use hard wax oil on all my catapults now.


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

better yet! advice from your friendly neighborhood fellow forum members. good stuff, this is interesting to me. you guys i am guessing have used other finishes? what is your reason for changing?


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## Jim Williams (Jul 6, 2011)

I changed from using danish oil because I found my work catapults went quite dull in colour after a few weeks of use. That and a hard wax oil finish is waterproof, scratch and dirt proof.


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

Sling Jim said:


> I changed from using danish oil because I found my work catapults went quite dull in colour after a few weeks of use. That and a hard wax oil finish is waterproof, scratch and dirt proof.


interesting, i will have to look into this also, hmmm lots of info all te time


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## Btoon84 (Nov 22, 2011)

Thanks gents. Some good suggestions. Newconvert, only wax in local hardwares is in the form of shellac and I don't want that. I have definatly searched for all things wood finish in my local surroundings... Other stuff has to be ordered...And things are usually more expensive IN the store than online... my experience anyway. So I have nothing against an online purchase. Just curious about the product. Thanks


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## Jim Williams (Jul 6, 2011)

Here's how I apply it:
I sand throughout the grits and then wipe my work down with white spirit to clean any remaining dust from the wood. It can be applied by cloth or by using a squirrel brush, after the first coat I'll do a light sand with an 800 grit wen 'n' dry abrasive paper and then I clean my work with a tack cloth. I'll then apply another coat, I find if you put any more than two coats on it will sit on the surface of some woods and leave your work tacky.

Hope this helps


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## The Gopher (Aug 25, 2010)

i use johnson paste wax, and like it but would like to try others. I am new to using waxes like this. after buffing does applying a second coat add any value?


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## Jim Williams (Jul 6, 2011)

I find using a liberon wax buffed on gives a much shinier appearance than just the microcrystalline wax I use.


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## Btoon84 (Nov 22, 2011)

Thanks Jim and gopher! Can't wait to try it!


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

I don't want to elevate one wax or oil finish over another here. All I want to say is that using polyurethane and other varnish finishes -- which I do myself sometimes -- is not compatible with the core slingshot mentality, which should be that a slingshot is an outdoor tool/weapon. As such, it should not be compared to a piece of fine furniture. The same finishes are not appropriate to each. Outdoor tools need to be water-resistant, and sometimes "grippy". Furniture has to be lustrous or shiny (it really doesn't have to be).

But sometimes _shiny _is a drawback to field tools. (1) Shiny means not grippy. And (2) Shiny means "hard", and hard means chipping can be problematic. If a hard finish chips it lets the enemy, moisture, in. Once moisture gets in under a hard shell, it can cause lots of damage before it's detected. A thing of beauty that's actually rotted from within... well, that's the stuff of legend isn't it?


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## Btoon84 (Nov 22, 2011)

I agree DH. The multiple poly coats, make the slingshot LOOK real nice... But a lot of the practicality is lost. Once my hands get the slightest bit of sweat on them, these slingshots with the poly just start slippin n slidin in my hand. Not practical at all.


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

anybody for bee's wax?


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## Jim Williams (Jul 6, 2011)

Dayhiker said:


> I don't want to elevate one wax or oil finish over another here. All I want to say is that using polyurethane and other varnish finishes -- which I do myself sometimes -- is not compatible with the core slingshot mentality, which should be that a slingshot is an outdoor tool/weapon. As such, it should not be compared to a piece of fine furniture. The same finishes are not appropriate to each. Outdoor tools need to be water-resistant, and sometimes "grippy". Furniture has to be lustrous or shiny (it really doesn't have to be).
> 
> But sometimes _shiny _is a drawback to field tools. (1) Shiny means not grippy. And (2) Shiny means "hard", and hard means chipping can be problematic. If a hard finish chips it lets the enemy, moisture, in. Once moisture gets in under a hard shell, it can cause lots of damage before it's detected. A thing of beauty that's actually rotted from within... well, that's the stuff of legend isn't it?


This is exactly why I have started using a hard wax oil. I don't like using a poly due to it being shiny, and also the feel it gives to woods. Using a hard wax oil makes the wood water resistant and doesn't chip like other finishes as with it being an oil it soaks into the wood rather than sitting on the surface.


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## Rockape66 (Dec 18, 2011)

I made my own blend. Melted beeswax and added BLO, 70/30. First I used it as bowstring wax, now I use it as a final finish on wood. I aply BLO until it doesn't absorb anymore, and wipe off excess. After it is well cured; I rub on this wax like it was a crayon, and hand rub it in. Final buff with an old T-shirt or cotton diaper. It gives a beautiful satin finish, but has a nice grippy feel.


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## zamarion (Mar 22, 2012)

i use olive oil


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

Rockape66 said:


> I made my own blend. Melted beeswax and added BLO, 70/30. First I used it as bowstring wax, now I use it as a final finish on wood. I aply BLO until it doesn't absorb anymore, and wipe off excess. After it is well cured; I rub on this wax like it was a crayon, and hand rub it in. Final buff with an old T-shirt or cotton diaper. It gives a beautiful satin finish, but has a nice grippy feel.


ive wondred about the bee's wax. now i know thanks RA.


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

zamarion said:


> i use olive oil


The ony thing about olive oils Z is that over a short period of time it goes rancid, it might have an overal effect on something you might want to keep.


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## inkspot (Dec 27, 2011)

The only stuff I've used on my SSs and carvings is tung oil and min wax .The oil has a tendency to darken the wood and the min wax just adds a little luster,the wood seals up nicely and I only have to re oil the outside carvings about once a year.


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## Setarip (Mar 27, 2012)

My recent ss was finished with Danish oil, and the final finish was carnauba wax. I applied 3 coats of wax after the oil dried (which ALOT of coats were applied! The thing just kept drinking oil) And I used a dremel with a buffing bit to get a nice shine. The wax gave it a nice luster without making it overly shiny, and there seems to be a ton of grip! Not that it matters, but it also smells really good!
Also as far as price goes, you can purchase a quart of danish oil, and a large can of carnauba wax for less than $30 combined! I would say there is enough in each to finish many hundreds of SS's.


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## Btoon84 (Nov 22, 2011)

Rockape66 said:


> I made my own blend. Melted beeswax and added BLO, 70/30. First I used it as bowstring wax, now I use it as a final finish on wood. I aply BLO until it doesn't absorb anymore, and wipe off excess. After it is well cured; I rub on this wax like it was a crayon, and hand rub it in. Final buff with an old T-shirt or cotton diaper. It gives a beautiful satin finish, but has a nice grippy feel.


this sounds nice. i love BLO. have plenty of that...just need to get some beeswax in this case. any will do? when you say "cure" how long are we talkin?


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## Rockape66 (Dec 18, 2011)

Btoon, curing is almost more art than science. Temperature, humidity, and other factors all affect curing time for BLO. Generally I just handle and smell the piece. When it feels hard and not tacky I'll work the piece over with 600 grit then 0000 steel wool, or a synthetic steel wool finishing pad. If i don't have any spots where the steel wool drags and the finish feels hard I will wipe it down with a micro fiber rag to remove any remaining dust. Then work the wax into the piece with 0000 steel wool, or the synthetic, give it a thorough rub down with my hands, then buff with an old clean T-shirt or cotton diaper. this gives a finish similar to satin poly, but with more grip.


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