# Multiplex, Aluminium cores etc.



## Brendan O'Brien (Feb 2, 2017)

Hi all.

Ok, next newbie question............................

Starting off making 11 of the templates on here in hardwood. Happy thus far, getting me on the road to making them, as I love variety in my work, and thoroughly enjoy shooting.

But................ most makes I see people aren't using hardwood at all. I'll leave naturals out of this, as it's almost another catagoury, I've got some lovely forks drying at moment.

Most frames I see are using Muliplex ply. Fair enough, is this considered stronger than hardwood frames? Or is it just a cheaper option than hardwood blanks? I suspect it is due to strength?

Also, aluminium core, then with added scales. Strength again? Planning on buying some sheets, I've got one of my bandsaws for cutting this, I'll designate it just for metal. Then, experiment with scale materials.

Interested to find out what is considered the general consensus on types of frames and strengths.

One last question, has any of you guys that have been doing this for years ever written or thought about writing a book on the subject? Sure there is a big market for it? If there is, can you point me in the right direction?

Thanks for taking the time to read,

Boggy.


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## treefork (Feb 1, 2010)

Understand the unidirectional grain pattern in all wood. It provides extreme strength and weakness if not understood when applied to slingshot design . The plywood provides the multi directional placement of the grain through out the layers . That's why it's stronger and more reliable than a single piece of hardwood . The aluminum core makes up for the grain weakness so the wood scales are really more for decoration than strength . The problem with a single layered board cut is the risk of breakage where the forks meet the handle . The weak spot due to the weak grain orientation and force in that area . You don't want a fork propelling back at your eye . Fork hits can easily break a board cut depending on the design and how much strength/material is in the weak spot .


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## Ibojoe (Mar 13, 2016)

Nicely put Treefork! Well said


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## wombat (Jun 10, 2011)

You might want to take a look here. This is how I do it. http://kookaburrakatties.blogspot.com.au/p/streng.html

Also don't forget, that just because it's a hard wood, doesn't mean it will make a good catty. http://kookaburrakatties.blogspot.com.au/p/long-grain-testing.html

Another way to strengthen your forks is with a brass pin drilled down from the top of the fork.


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## mattwalt (Jan 5, 2017)

Also should point out that Certain materials like diamondwood ( used for knife handles / gun stocks ) and similar tend to have grain running in the same direction (even though 'reinforced'stabiliased with resin) - these too are known to break at the same point as mentioned above, especially for fork hits. And also worth mentioning certain plastics that are generally tough may not be all too impact resistant ( Perspex ) - strong enough to take the strain forces but garbage after a hit... So you need to understand the principals and materials involved...

There are a few materials around to consider... Tufnol (fairly inexpensive - blocks available on Ebay, I'd probably want the cloth over paper) / Micarta (you can make your own quiet easily) / G10 - The way I see it is Catty construction has quite a lot in common with knife making and bow making (within reason), a lot of guys seem to use similar techniques and materials.

There are also a number of plastics that can be used as cores...

Books - look for Jack H. Koehler


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## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

Just signed up and read your response Jack. Regarding strength of slingshot materials, you hit the Jack Pot with

the Alley Cat, Flat Cat Pro and The Beaver. The polished aluminum forks on these slingshots are bomb proof. I saw

pictures of several mishaps on here last night, and they ain't pretty. The Alley Cat was my first slingshot purchase. I

could have or should have stopped right there but didn't. I did break a fork on one eBay beautiful Zebra wood slingshot

on the first pull of the bands. Not a fork hit, I hadn't let er fly yet. Not gonna happen on my Alley Cat. I've also nicked a

couple of nice wood slingshots. Not gonna happen on my Alley Cat.

Since this post is about making slingshots, now if I or you Jack could figure out how to make an Alley Cat that is flat band

friendly. Something that requires no band tying and the flat bands just slip in like the tubes do on your slingshots. I could have

saved a lot of $$$ by just being satisfied with my Alley Cat because I have just spent a week of shooting every slingshot I

have bought attempting to pick out that one special shooter that will be my go to slingshot of choice...turns out it is the Alley

Cat....provided I can figure out how to attach flat bands to it. Or modify the design and make my own version. Perhaps the

Bob Cat, Cougar or Cheetah.


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