# Fork width vs. Anchor point ... epiphany



## snydes (Jan 9, 2021)

I have 3 slingshots with different fork widths (40, 45 & 50 mm). I've been having the hardest time switching between them - always took me a while to get my center dialed in. So after taking some time & actually THINKING about what was going on ... I was able to figure it out. I shoot the 45 mm gap most often & have the hold point dialed in. I never thought to change the hold point relative to the fork width, as the larger the width, the HIGHER the top corner aiming point will be (at least on mine where the thickness of the forks is about the same). DUH. :banghead: So, what I learned & then proved by trial and error is that the wider the fork width, I have to anchor quite a bit lower. Reverse holds for the narrow 40mm frame. It's like clockwork, works every time (as long as I do my part). I understand now why some of the target slingshots have adjustable fork widths - makes sense if you want to not alter your anchor point once you decide on it. Of course, all this goes out the window when you vary the length / tension of your bands - have to have the same tension / band length to prevent ammo drop. This whole thing is quite an enjoyable process to figure out - suits the analytical side of me.

So, it seems I will be paying more attention to the fork width when looking at new slingshots - some will work inherently better for whatever anchor point I'm using ...


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## Reed Lukens (Aug 16, 2020)

That's right, so use your widest fork for the 10m target and then go narrower on fork width, the farther out you shoot. The more they narrow, the higher or farther the shot :headbang:


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## Harry Knuckles (Sep 28, 2020)

I started out shooting frameless and the common thing to do is widen your fingers when shooting a target close and put them closer together when shooting farther out. The changing of your finger width allows you to keep the same reference point.


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