# Cutting Board Board Cut



## Sling-a-ling (Jun 19, 2013)

While shopping at Meijer today I found a cheap cutting board and figured I could make a quick project out of it. I took it home and used the "Mini Traditional Cut" template by Northerner (http://slingshotforum.com/files/file/54-mini-traditional-cut/) to trace it on the board before cutting it out with my band saw. It all went quick and smooth but sanding was a bit of an issue. Lower grits like 60 and 80 just tended to peel instead of sand away the plastic, but starting at 100 and then moving upwards solved the problem. The thickness is just over .25" and only seems to flex slightly while shooting. Other than that I am very pleased with this quick project.


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## Flycatcher (Jun 19, 2013)

Clever cleaver! this is a cool idea. I might give this a try this weekend.


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## treefork (Feb 1, 2010)

Nice and compact.


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## e~shot (Jun 3, 2010)

Cool!


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## Sling-a-ling (Jun 19, 2013)

Flycatcher said:


> Clever cleaver! this is a cool idea. I might give this a try this weekend.


It's fun. Probably took less than an hour to do. But once you cut it, the edges will be really jagged. I carved it off with a knife and then started at 100 grit sandpaper.


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## leon13 (Oct 4, 2012)

very nicely dun

cheers


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## ash (Apr 23, 2013)

This kind of soft plastic probably responds better to heat than to sanding smooth. Once you get is to the right shape and smooth, but a little bit hairy, you should be able to get it really smooth by rubbing it down with a hot metal bar. Perhaps a simple 10-25mm rod with a wooden handle. lay the metal rod on a stove element or in a flame to warm it up. It doesn't need to be super hot, just enough to soften the plastic, so experiment a bit.

It may also be possible to hold the frame with tongs or pliers and rotate it above a hot element, toaster, fire or whatever you have handy. The aim is to get those hairy sanding marks to met away and glaze over without melting the bulk plastic ( or yourself!). This is all a DIY variation on the idea of flame polishing.

Fire safety, burn safety, fume safety precautions apply. If you have to ask, you shouldn't try it.


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## Sling-a-ling (Jun 19, 2013)

ash said:


> This kind of soft plastic probably responds better to heat than to sanding smooth. Once you get is to the right shape and smooth, but a little bit hairy, you should be able to get it really smooth by rubbing it down with a hot metal bar. Perhaps a simple 10-25mm rod with a wooden handle. lay the metal rod on a stove element or in a flame to warm it up. It doesn't need to be super hot, just enough to soften the plastic, so experiment a bit.
> 
> It may also be possible to hold the frame with tongs or pliers and rotate it above a hot element, toaster, fire or whatever you have handy. The aim is to get those hairy sanding marks to met away and glaze over without melting the bulk plastic ( or yourself!). This is all a DIY variation on the idea of flame polishing.
> 
> Fire safety, burn safety, fume safety precautions apply. If you have to ask, you shouldn't try it.


Thanks for the tip. I actually tried a hot glue gun without glue but that didn't provide enough heat. For my next projects with the remaining bit of cutting board I will definitely keep that in mind.


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## Dr J (Apr 22, 2013)

You can also try a heat gun with adjustable settings. I use one when i make PVC SS. A soldering iron with a special tip works well also.. If it gets too hot you will defeat the purpose, so be careful


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## Sling-a-ling (Jun 19, 2013)

Dr J said:


> You can also try a heat gun with adjustable settings. I use one when i make PVC SS. A soldering iron with a special tip works well also.. If it gets too hot you will defeat the purpose, so be careful


When you use the heat gun on PVC does it release the toxic fumes? I've always wanted to make knife sheaths and slingshots with PVC but I worry about those fumes.


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## stej (Jan 16, 2013)

Nide little shooter. As it's so thin, it almost disappears in your pocket


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## Mr.Teh (Feb 28, 2012)

Yeah slingshots from cutting boards make fun, nice work :thumbsup:


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## Shahariare Jewel (Dec 24, 2016)

Make another one and attach with adhesive. It will be more strong!


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## brucered (Dec 30, 2015)

Shahariare Jewel said:


> Make another one and attach with adhesive. It will be more strong!


The OP hasn't posted on the forum in 4y.


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## Tag (Jun 11, 2014)

Looks great


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## rockchunker (Jan 1, 2017)

LOOKING GOOD


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## raventree78 (Apr 20, 2016)

I've made a slingshot like this before. It fits my hand like a glove, an embarrassingly poorly made glove. However it really is one of my go to slingshots and it shoots well for me. It is kinda neat knowing that something you made from a 3 dollar cutting board shoots as well as the 40 dollar piece you bought.


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## wn4Studios (Jul 4, 2016)

Router bits work wonders on HDPE.
Flush-Trim and Rounding-Over Bits in particular, sizes of course vary depending on size of work piece.


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## MikmaqWarrior (May 12, 2014)

Nice job!

Sent from my B1-770 using Tapatalk


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## rockchunker (Jan 1, 2017)

How would one double the thickness, glue,heat,rivets,railroad spikes?


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## brucered (Dec 30, 2015)

rockchunker said:


> How would one double the thickness, glue,heat,rivets,railroad spikes?


Buy a 3/4" board and sand or plane it down to 1/2".

Or buy a 1/2" board.


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## rockchunker (Jan 1, 2017)

Obviously, but I mean using the cheap and easily obtainable but thin cutting boards...


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## brucered (Dec 30, 2015)

It's still cheaper to buy a 1/2" board, then to make one out of 2 x 1/4" boards. Not to mention, I've yet to see anyone successfully post about bonding HDPE. Let along the costs involved in the glue/eposy, pins, time and hazards of working with the bonding agents.

Boards can be picked up for cheap and you can make 7-10 frames from a cutting board or HDPE. They'll probably work out to be well under $2 a piece in 3/4".


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## RHTWIST (Jan 31, 2014)

Shahariare Jewel said:


> Make another one and attach with adhesive. It will be more strong!


Great idea, you might be able to easily make one of those OTT roll tie tops -CD


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## RHTWIST (Jan 31, 2014)

brucered said:


> It's still cheaper to buy a 1/2" board, then to make one out of 2 x 1/4" boards. Not to mention, I've yet to see anyone successfully post about bonding HDPE. Let along the costs involved in the glue/eposy, pins, time and hazards of working with the bonding agents.
> 
> Boards can be picked up for cheap and you can make 7-10 frames from a cutting board or HDPE. They'll probably work out to be well under $2 a piece in 3/4".


Ok, no good way to bond with HDPE. Does anything bond well to HDPE if you wanted to attach a little wood scale? -CD


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## brucered (Dec 30, 2015)

RHTWIST said:


> brucered said:
> 
> 
> > It's still cheaper to buy a 1/2" board, then to make one out of 2 x 1/4" boards. Not to mention, I've yet to see anyone successfully post about bonding HDPE. Let along the costs involved in the glue/eposy, pins, time and hazards of working with the bonding agents.
> ...


I have yet to see it. I'm sure there is a way though.


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## RHTWIST (Jan 31, 2014)

brucered said:


> RHTWIST said:
> 
> 
> > brucered said:
> ...


I have seen masons work with clear silicone at job sites and I have been amazed at it's strength. I don't know if silicone will bond to HDPE. It is pretty slippery stuff and why they use for

cutting boards.


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## rockchunker (Jan 1, 2017)

brucered said:


> It's still cheaper to buy a 1/2" board, then to make one out of 2 x 1/4" boards. Not to mention, I've yet to see anyone successfully post about bonding HDPE. Let along the costs involved in the glue/eposy, pins, time and hazards of working with the bonding agents.
> 
> Boards can be picked up for cheap and you can make 7-10 frames from a cutting board or HDPE. They'll probably work out to be well under $2 a piece in 3/4".


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## rockchunker (Jan 1, 2017)

brucered said:


> It's still cheaper to buy a 1/2" board, then to make one out of 2 x 1/4" boards. Not to mention, I've yet to see anyone successfully post about bonding HDPE. Let along the costs involved in the glue/eposy, pins, time and hazards of working with the bonding agents.
> 
> Boards can be picked up for cheap and you can make 7-10 frames from a cutting board or HDPE. They'll probably work out to be well under $2 a piece in 3/4".


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## rockchunker (Jan 1, 2017)

brucered said:


> It's still cheaper to buy a 1/2" board, then to make one out of 2 x 1/4" boards. Not to mention, I've yet to see anyone successfully post about bonding HDPE. Let along the costs involved in the glue/eposy, pins, time and hazards of working with the bonding agents.
> 
> Boards can be picked up for cheap and you can make 7-10 frames from a cutting board or HDPE. They'll probably work out to be well under $2 a piece in 3/4".


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## rockchunker (Jan 1, 2017)

Thanks, that was much more informative.


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