# pouchless bow string attachment ideas?



## MikmaqWarrior (May 12, 2014)

Hi...I am currently modifying a Barnett Cobra and it is my first mod. I purchased Theraband Silver Tubing and some Dloop...but, I don't want to use the leather pouch. I want to use a cheap method to attach paracord 550 to my tubes (safely) so the Dloop will be connected directly.
I've seen a video using a needle and an actual bow string, but it won't work with paracord.
I'm assuming there are other ways because I've seen a lot of slingbows using paracord, and attached to the tubes using some sort of inserts...I'm thinking of using wooden dowels, or the plastic practice shot that came with the cobra slingshot...but I'm concerned about safety...especially when using theraband silver...it's will be very powerful. I don't want any injuries.
Any help is greatly appreciated. 
MikmaqWarrior


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

I mainly use Theratube Silver on my slingbows and the 'knot in tube' method works just fine.

What is 'Dloop' ?


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

Hi Mikmaq and welcome to the forum.

I'm assuming that you are going to use some type of mechanical release. Here is what I have been using..









It allows me to use my fingers instead of a release. you could leave out the leather and make the D-loop smaller for a release. I use serving string for the connections and reinforce it with some super glue. So far, they have not slipped on me

I hope this helps.

Todd


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## Metropolicity (Aug 22, 2013)

ruthiexxxx said:


> I mainly use Theratube Silver on my slingbows and the 'knot in tube' method works just fine.
> 
> What is 'Dloop' ?


D-loop is a type of high strength cord used for the D-Loop on a bow string for a release.


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

Ah...silly me !  I think I could do with some of that. I've started using a mechanical release on one of my slingbows and with 4 bands a side of TBG I'm hoping the paracord can take it !!


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

Ruthie...the paracord will handle it, no problem. True paracord comes in different ratings. The green in the picture is rated at 95 pounds. The most important think you can do when making the D-loop it to make sure the ends are really mushroomed out. Go slow and don't let the paracord burn....just melt it and mushroom it then repeat 2 or 3 times. If you burn the cord, it can become brittle and break later.

There are some really good videos on youtube for making the D-loops.

With the amount of pull, I'm more concerned on the attachment loops and them not slipping. If you use something like I did, make sure you let the glue dry well before pulling on them. Maybe make one and test it in a vise before hooking up the bands...just in case.

Be careful no matter what you do....I'm sure you will come up with something that will work well

Todd


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

GrayWolf said:


> Ruthie...the paracord will handle it, no problem. True paracord comes in different ratings. The green in the picture is rated at 95 pounds. The most important think you can do when making the D-loop it to make sure the ends are really mushroomed out. Go slow and don't let the paracord burn....just melt it and mushroom it then repeat 2 or 3 times. If you burn the cord, it can become brittle and break later.
> 
> There are some really good videos on youtube for making the D-loops.
> 
> ...


Thanks for that Todd. It's not the real 550 but it seems pretty good stuff. I'm afraid I leave making the D-loops to The Boss 'cos he's great with paracord and knots. And you're right to be concerned about the attachment. One fork came undone after a few shots. I'd threaded them through the ringbols and used the stretchy (animal making) balloon rubber for the tie. I shall redo them with TBG strips and make sure they're really tight this time !! I'd just been contemplating taking it up to 5 a side but may hold back on that. I'm really pleased and surprised that the mechanical release held up as it was a cheap one and don't want to push my luck.


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## MikmaqWarrior (May 12, 2014)

GrayWolf said:


> Hi Mikmaq and welcome to the forum.
> 
> I'm assuming that you are going to use some type of mechanical release. Here is what I have been using..
> 
> ...


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

Len...the tubes are doubled and are tied at the frame. The black tube you see is to hold the tubes in place. I'm not a real fan of using a ball or something else to hold a single tube in place. I have never really had much luck with that style...they always want to slip.

I hope you have better luck.

Todd


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## MikmaqWarrior (May 12, 2014)

GrayWolf said:


> Len...the tubes are doubled and are tied at the frame. The black tube you see is to hold the tubes in place. I'm not a real fan of using a ball or something else to hold a single tube in place. I have never really had much luck with that style...they always want to slip.
> 
> I hope you have better luck.
> 
> Todd


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## MikmaqWarrior (May 12, 2014)

MikmaqWarrior said:


> GrayWolf said:
> 
> 
> > Len...the tubes are doubled and are tied at the frame. The black tube you see is to hold the tubes in place. I'm not a real fan of using a ball or something else to hold a single tube in place. I have never really had much luck with that style...they always want to slip.
> ...


I am not able to find a way to post an image of the attachment I am wondering about...sorry...I copied your pic and added arrows to illustrate....well, anyway...they are the black connectors on the tubes (where they are folded over, to make the space to attack the bow string) Are they just small sections of black tubing? it looks like hard plastic collars, of some sort....

* I wish I could post an attachment...but when I click on add photo...a ULR box comes up...cant find an attachment button in toolbar


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## LazarusLong (Dec 19, 2013)

MikmaqWarrior said:


> MikmaqWarrior said:
> 
> 
> > GrayWolf said:
> ...


Pretty sure you need to go to "more reply options" and add an attachment from your cpu.


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

I'll take one of my sling bows and take apart the tubes and make a video to show you what I am using and how I put it all together. If you are using Theraband Silver tubes, it will be the same as the way I do it...you will have to tie the tubes on. I will make the video when I get home tomorrow night...it will be fairly late as I work noon till 8 or 10 at night here, so it will be close to midnight before I get it uploaded and posted.

As I said earlier, the black is 1/4" tubing...NOT hard plastic collars. The black tubes are not for securing the paracord but for helping to keep the amber tubes from tangling when shooting and to keep the paracord in place. They are there for convenience only. You could easily get by not having them.

Todd


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## MikmaqWarrior (May 12, 2014)

GrayWolf said:


> I'll take one of my sling bows and take apart the tubes and make a video to show you what I am using and how I put it all together. If you are using Theraband Silver tubes, it will be the same as the way I do it...you will have to tie the tubes on. I will make the video when I get home tomorrow night...it will be fairly late as I work noon till 8 or 10 at night here, so it will be close to midnight before I get it uploaded and posted.
> 
> As I said earlier, the black is 1/4" tubing...NOT hard plastic collars. The black tubes are not for securing the paracord but for helping to keep the amber tubes from tangling when shooting and to keep the paracord in place. They are there for convenience only. You could easily get by not having them.
> 
> Todd


Please let me know when you make the video...and thanks for all the help


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

MikmaqWarrior said:


> GrayWolf said:
> 
> 
> > I'll take one of my sling bows and take apart the tubes and make a video to show you what I am using and how I put it all together. If you are using Theraband Silver tubes, it will be the same as the way I do it...you will have to tie the tubes on. I will make the video when I get home tomorrow night...it will be fairly late as I work noon till 8 or 10 at night here, so it will be close to midnight before I get it uploaded and posted.
> ...


I put the video in a pm on Friday.


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## SlingBowPro (Jul 24, 2014)

What I have always used and has worked great for me has been either a piece of bow string (if you have some lying around) make sure the arrow will nock into it, or I have simply used like a boot shoelace. I cut about a 3 inch piece and the first thing I do is mix up some epoxy. I use gorilla glue but I'm sure any would work. And just get a nice little bead on each end of it. This will be used to either slide into a tube and tie or to wrap a flat band around it and tie. I use the wrap and tuck method and have never had one slip out on my flat bands. Then I made the D loop, make sure it's nice and tight and then mix some more epoxy and put it around the two knots. Otherwise when you go to draw it back with your release the knots will want to pinch together. It's very light weight and hasn't failed me yet. I can post some pictures if anyone requests.


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## MikmaqWarrior (May 12, 2014)

SlingBowPro said:


> What I have always used and has worked great for me has been either a piece of bow string (if you have some lying around) make sure the arrow will nock into it, or I have simply used like a boot shoelace. I cut about a 3 inch piece and the first thing I do is mix up some epoxy. I use gorilla glue but I'm sure any would work. And just get a nice little bead on each end of it. This will be used to either slide into a tube and tie or to wrap a flat band around it and tie. I use the wrap and tuck method and have never had one slip out on my flat bands. Then I made the D loop, make sure it's nice and tight and then mix some more epoxy and put it around the two knots. Otherwise when you go to draw it back with your release the knots will want to pinch together. It's very light weight and hasn't failed me yet. I can post some pictures if anyone requests.


Yes, please..any pics would help...I actually thought about the dloop sliding together as it is drawn, but I was thinking of placing two brass nock markers (not sure what they are called...they pinch onto the bow string) to stop that from happening.


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## SlingBowPro (Jul 24, 2014)

Yes a string nock is what they are called, that is a good idea. I haven't tried that so I wouldn't know how strong they would hold up either.. the epoxy hasn't failed me yet. It would be minuet but I would imagine those would weigh more than some epoxy. I will post a few pictures later tonight for you! Here's a couple for now.


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## SlingBowPro (Jul 24, 2014)

Do you shoot flat bands or tubes?


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## MikmaqWarrior (May 12, 2014)

SlingBowPro said:


> Yes a string nock is what they are called, that is a good idea. I haven't tried that so I wouldn't know how strong they would hold up either.. the epoxy hasn't failed me yet. It would be minuet but I would imagine those would weigh more than some epoxy. I will post a few pictures later tonight for you! Here's a couple for now.


Well, if the epoxy works for you, it will work for me 
How much pull does your band set have? I just bought my first roll of TB gold...haven't even cut into it yet...I bought TB silver and black tubing. I am using a Barnett Cobra frame...maybe the flatbands would work?

What is your band setup? And your draw length?


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## eggy22 (Feb 3, 2013)

i'm liking this thread.


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## MikmaqWarrior (May 12, 2014)

[quote name="SlingBowPro" post="448417" timestamp="1406235530"]Do you shoot flat bands or tubes?[/quote

Tubes...for now...I have some TB silver and black...however, I just purchased an 18ft roll of TB gold, and after seeing your four-per-side setup, I was thinking of trying the same...


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## SlingBowPro (Jul 24, 2014)

Here are a few more pictures for you... I think it's easy enough to see how I attach it to the bands from the picture. There are four different types I have tried. The middle two are made of actual bow string but they seem to let the arrow out harder so I prefer the boot string as it still holds the arrow just fine but it comes out nice and easy. And I attached a picture of how to tie a D loop. As for the bands I use 4 per side as you saw. It equals to almost a full sheet per side and I have a 32 inch draw so my bands are 6.5 inches. (Take your draw and divide by 5 to get the most out of the rubber you are using). And I also slightly tapered them, not much though as I feel a major taper has more of a benefit when shooting light ammo. I think I have like a 1.5 to 1.25 inch taper. I plan on using a full sheet next time for a little more power. I would say just make sure to stretch the bands to their max and pull as much as you can. I use heavier arrows for more of a punch on impact.


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## SlingBowPro (Jul 24, 2014)

I'm getting ready for a new band set. I will be using a full sheet or 5 inches width on each side in 5 bands that will be 5.75 inches long. I remeasure my draw length and subtracted the distance from release to where the rubber is stretching as well as where I tie the bands off at the forks and it came out closer to 29 inches that 32. I have also made my lightest sling D loop that I will use. I plan on shooting it tomorrow or Saturday and will let you know how it all works.


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## MikmaqWarrior (May 12, 2014)

Thanks...this is really helpful...and I can't wait to try out this setup...and find out how your new setup works...keep me posted, please


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

Just passing on a couple of great ideas that have come from guys on this forum. With the first of these slingbows I cut 4 bands a side of TBG...and it works beautifully. But when I too wanted to go up to 5 bands a side someone suggested just rolling the tbg sheet into a tube, thus avoiding the need to cut. This has worked well too.

As for a D-loop I started with a conventional one used with a mechanical release but have now moved to making a wider loop that has a section of rubber tubing over it. This means I can get a 3 finger draw without the need for a release at all. This makes life much simpler.


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## MikmaqWarrior (May 12, 2014)

ruthiexxxx said:


> Just passing on a couple of great ideas that have come from guys on this forum. With the first of these slingbows I cut 4 bands a side of TBG...and it works beautifully. But when I too wanted to go up to 5 bands a side someone suggested just rolling the tbg sheet into a tube, thus avoiding the need to cut. This has worked well too.
> 
> As for a D-loop I started with a conventional one used with a mechanical release but have now moved to making a wider loop that has a section of rubber tubing over it. This means I can get a 3 finger draw without the need for a release at all. This makes life much simpler.


I love your design...I have TB silver tubing (non latex thicker stuff) that would be better suited for your design...so, I think I will attempt one....any tips on what materials to use?


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

MikmaqWarrior said:


> ruthiexxxx said:
> 
> 
> > Just passing on a couple of great ideas that have come from guys on this forum. With the first of these slingbows I cut 4 bands a side of TBG...and it works beautifully. But when I too wanted to go up to 5 bands a side someone suggested just rolling the tbg sheet into a tube, thus avoiding the need to cut. This has worked well too.
> ...


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## SlingBowPro (Jul 24, 2014)

ruthiexxxx said:


> Just passing on a couple of great ideas that have come from guys on this forum. With the first of these slingbows I cut 4 bands a side of TBG...and it works beautifully. But when I too wanted to go up to 5 bands a side someone suggested just rolling the tbg sheet into a tube, thus avoiding the need to cut. This has worked well too.
> 
> As for a D-loop I started with a conventional one used with a mechanical release but have now moved to making a wider loop that has a section of rubber tubing over it. This means I can get a 3 finger draw without the need for a release at all. This makes life much simpler.


That's a great idea to roll a sheet of TBG! I will have to try that. It would save a lot of time for sure.. Only problem is would you be able to taper it?


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

SlingBowPro said:


> ruthiexxxx said:
> 
> 
> > Just passing on a couple of great ideas that have come from guys on this forum. With the first of these slingbows I cut 4 bands a side of TBG...and it works beautifully. But when I too wanted to go up to 5 bands a side someone suggested just rolling the tbg sheet into a tube, thus avoiding the need to cut. This has worked well too.
> ...


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## SlingBowPro (Jul 24, 2014)

Okay I will have to give it a try for my next band set. =) does it stay rolled up in the middle of the bands between ties?


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## ruthiexxxx (Sep 15, 2012)

they seem to pretty well. It's mainly a case of rolling tightly and making sure that all the layers are trapped under the 'wrap n tuck' at either end


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## ozzyizabiker (Jul 2, 2012)

I make paracord arrow knocks, they work really well:






- and here in action with power up Gold Therabands!


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## Greavous (Sep 29, 2013)

Ive never tinkered with a slingbow, yet... But when I saw the title of this thread an image came to mind.

Has anyone gone down this road? Cut a pouch with a "serving" in the center? Whipped up a quick Cad drawing to get the idea across.


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## SlingBowPro (Jul 24, 2014)

ozzyizabiker said:


> I make paracord arrow knocks, they work really well:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Cool vids ozzy! Love the homemade slingbow. I don't have any woodworking supplies so I have to cheat. =) I am working on a new modification to the marksman 3061. I should have it done in a few days.


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## eggy22 (Feb 3, 2013)

SlingBowPro said:


> Here are a few more pictures for you... I think it's easy enough to see how I attach it to the bands from the picture. There are four different types I have tried. The middle two are made of actual bow string but they seem to let the arrow out harder so I prefer the boot string as it still holds the arrow just fine but it comes out nice and easy. And I attached a picture of how to tie a D loop. As for the bands I use 4 per side as you saw. It equals to almost a full sheet per side and I have a 32 inch draw so my bands are 6.5 inches. (Take your draw and divide by 5 to get the most out of the rubber you are using). And I also slightly tapered them, not much though as I feel a major taper has more of a benefit when shooting light ammo. I think I have like a 1.5 to 1.25 inch taper. I plan on using a full sheet next time for a little more power. I would say just make sure to stretch the bands to their max and pull as much as you can. I use heavier arrows for more of a punch on impact.


Thank You For this .

This has been very Helpful as i am just starting out on slingbows


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## SlingBowPro (Jul 24, 2014)

eggy22 said:


> Thank You For this .
> This has been very Helpful as i am just starting out on slingbows


I am glad I could help you! I have enjoyed discovering this sport and love sharing it.


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## eggy22 (Feb 3, 2013)

What Diameter cord is everyone using for the nocking rig please .


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## SlingBowPro (Jul 24, 2014)

Maybe like 1/8th inch? Most boot shoelaces I have tried work fine. I guess some people use paracord as well. Or you can use an actual peice of bow string.


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## eggy22 (Feb 3, 2013)

SlingBowPro said:


> Maybe like 1/8th inch? Most boot shoelaces I have tried work fine. I guess some people use paracord as well. Or you can use an actual peice of bow string.


All the paracord i have wont fit in the nock ....


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## SlingBowPro (Jul 24, 2014)

Yeah you know I don't know too much about paracord but that is kind of what I thought when I first heard of people using it... Maybe there is a smaller size.  But I have been going into Walmart and for 2 or 3 bucks I can get enough boot shoelace for many many string nocks. I would actually take a nock off an arrow and bring it along to make sure the string would fit.


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## JohnnyAppleshooter (Aug 11, 2021)

SlingBowPro said:


> What I have always used and has worked great for me has been either a piece of bow string (if you have some lying around) make sure the arrow will nock into it, or I have simply used like a boot shoelace. I cut about a 3 inch piece and the first thing I do is mix up some epoxy. I use gorilla glue but I'm sure any would work. And just get a nice little bead on each end of it. This will be used to either slide into a tube and tie or to wrap a flat band around it and tie. I use the wrap and tuck method and have never had one slip out on my flat bands. Then I made the D loop, make sure it's nice and tight and then mix some more epoxy and put it around the two knots. Otherwise when you go to draw it back with your release the knots will want to pinch together. It's very light weight and hasn't failed me yet. I can post some pictures if anyone requests.


Watta u do when the string is pinched at full draw and pushes out one way or the other? Or have i missed something?


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