# .31 caliber lead round ball bandset



## mr.joel (Dec 21, 2009)

We've talked to no end about how to smash things to bits. Now I thought I'd change gears. What do you guys think would be best bandset and pouch for this small caliber some of us cast in Do-It molds.

I've shot this ball with what I consider decent penetration, and still would consider it a viable, but limited projectile for small game. It is the .22(well, OK, .22 short) round of slingshots, IMO. It is seemingly far more specialized in order to be done right, however.


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## USASlingshot (Feb 25, 2010)

i dont no the exact size of the .31 but i use 3/8" steel ball bearing (probably about the same) and that gives good enougn penetration for hunting. i dont feel the need to use .44 cal lead or steel, to me it is a waist of money unless you a going to hunt every day. 3/8 is perfect for target shooting and minor hunting


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## smitty (Dec 17, 2009)

17-45 stretched where you can only pull it about an inch past your anchor point in a four strand rig. This set-up will send that ammo right where you want it and fast the way you like it.
Second choice would be Theraband gold cut 1&1/2" at the fork and cut 1" at the pouch. Only reason the gold is second choice is because of the loud noise it makes when released. You might get a second shot with the 17-45.
Third choice is 20-40 in eight strands. This would be my first choice except for the fact that it is eight strands and some people like to keep it down to four strands. I actually like 20-40 better because it is more versatile for me to use.


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## mr.joel (Dec 21, 2009)

3/8 is about .38 caliber, although in steel I bet a similar trajectory and performance.

Smitty, isn't that bandset a little on the stiff side for this bullet? If you think it's ok, I'll do it, but from what I've read you gain little from increased power bands with small bullets. I'm concerned about band life on this setup...you really think it's OK? I am new to making bands, and want the most efficient combination for this underrated lead ball.

Wouldn't this be the same as double tapered 3/4"-1/2" bands? I was thinking this in Thera Silver. Smitty wants a .31 magnum! I like the idea, but is that practical?

How about:

-double Thera silver 1" tapered to 1/2?

-Thera blue? maybe this more sensitive material is better suitable given the lighter lead slingshot bullet?

seriously this ball would make a fine bullet for a squirrel gun on Joerg's slingshot x-bow platform or Tex's Nova Star.


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## pelleteer (Dec 19, 2009)

I agree. I think that's too much horsepower for a .31 lead ball. A .310 lead ball weighs about 45 gr. which is about 10 gr. lighter than a 3/8" steel. I'd go for something similar to Tex's target bands at most.


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## mr.joel (Dec 21, 2009)

I like the spirit of what Smitty was saying, though. I'd like to optimize the power of the small ball. So what does that translate into Theraband? Say, one strip of silver tapered, two or three blue, maybe?


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## Tex-Shooter (Dec 17, 2009)

If you shoot them too fast the bands won't last very long. My Target bands will kill small game and should shoot that ball about 190 fps from a classic. -- Tex


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## smitty (Dec 17, 2009)

Try the small diameter tubes if you haven't done it yet. I think you will be very happy with that lead pill smacking the holy crap out of anything it hits. I am no expert though like Tex and several others on here are. I know that the lead will hit like a dead blow hammer with less of a tendency to bounce off than steel, so it ain't just how much it weighs. The lead will transfer more of its' energy into the target. Sure wish I could be there with you to test all this stuff out. It is my favorite thing to play with. That's why I am working on a slingshot to be able to change bands quickly so that I don't have to have a bag full of slingshots rubbered up all the time.
Here is a good idea too: PM Tex and Flatband for sure and any others you would want to and go with what the majority have to say. Guys that know a lot more than me say a taper ratio of 3 to 2 is the best for speed and long life. Joerg says that Thera black can be configured to shoot very well and very fast with lots of power. If I wanted to go with flat bands I would just rig up several slingshots with the same bands, same taper. First slingshot would have one layer, second has two layers, third three layers, etc.. Then I would just go outside and shoot until I found the combination I liked the best.


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## mr.joel (Dec 21, 2009)

Well, that's part of why all the copies: try several bands on the same frame instantly. I have found tourniquets work better than locally sold rubber for slingshots. Sold in blue 1" x 1.5 foot @ 35 Pisos (70 or so cents) a band, it looks promising for this in a single band.

Tex, I reckon your target bands would be the about the best considering my luck with your field bands using .38 lead. However, I do wonder about the large pouch with this ball, and I was thinking it was optimal perhaps with a smaller fork as well. Neither of these may be true however, just a thought.

I presently have no access to the Chinaman tubes, I'd love to try some though.


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## Tex-Shooter (Dec 17, 2009)

I can make smaller pouches with a 3/8 dimple. I have a die! -- Tex


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## mr.joel (Dec 21, 2009)

Tex-Shooter said:


> I can make smaller pouches with a 3/8 dimple. I have a die! -- Tex


Farrr out! So using a 3/8 dimple is optimum for .31 or .38 balls? We will definitely get some horse trading done...


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## Sam (Jul 5, 2010)

OK, by my calculation a 0.31" or 0.787cm lead ball weighs 2.89g (to 3SF,) now we know that a 3/8" steel ball bearing weighs just less than 3.5g and this is only just suitable for hunting so I think you may be pushing it a little - you would need to achieve a higher velocity to make up for the substantial loss in mass. Although at the the same time the 0.31" lead would have a higher penetration rating than the 3/8" steel - due to their relative densities*: 11.34g/cm[sup]3[/sup] and 7.85g/cm[sup]3 [/sup]respectively. (*Please note that these figures are not entirely accurate the lead is unlikely to be pure and the steel ball bearings are typically coated in nickel for its anti-corrosion properties.)

You might be able to achieve enough velocity with a heavily optimised set-up with a butterfly shooting style, but I would definitely want to test this before testing it on live quarry. Just my two cents!


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## mr.joel (Dec 21, 2009)

I agree it is pushing the limit as a hunting projectile, but I would say they are probably more suitable than the 3/8 steel even if lighter, in terms of performance. I would only even try it at short range. A .62 lead ball with Hunter bands it will never be, understood.

Interesting question: is this a better suited bullet for butterfly, x-bows, and starships? They work to shoot fish with in any event,


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## Sam (Jul 5, 2010)

mr.joel said:


> I agree it is pushing the limit as a hunting projectile, but I would say they are probably more suitable than the 3/8 steel even if lighter, in terms of performance. I would only even try it at short range. A .62 lead ball with Hunter bands it will never be, understood.
> 
> Interesting question: is this a better suited bullet for butterfly, x-bows, and starships? They work to shoot fish with in any event,


Using a crossbow, IMO would be pointless, as for starships the fork extension would increase the velocity, but at the expense of accuracy and portability, (they're also unfortunately illegal in a lot of places.) I think the butterfly would be the most suitable. BTW if you shot a fish with a bullet how would you retrieve it?


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## mr.joel (Dec 21, 2009)

Sam said:


> I agree it is pushing the limit as a hunting projectile, but I would say they are probably more suitable than the 3/8 steel even if lighter, in terms of performance. I would only even try it at short range. A .62 lead ball with Hunter bands it will never be, understood.
> 
> Interesting question: is this a better suited bullet for butterfly, x-bows, and starships? They work to shoot fish with in any event,


Using a crossbow, IMO would be pointless, as for starships the fork extension would increase the velocity, but at the expense of accuracy and portability, (they're also unfortunately illegal in a lot of places.) I think the butterfly would be the most suitable. BTW if you shot a fish with a bullet how would you retrieve it?








[/quote]
The point is a flat shooting economical to cast and carry bullet...like a .22LR...although this point and is taken with the x-bow.

The fish...I got lucky and we found it...it was a head shot and it darted off, a buddy found it floating minutes later with the bullet hole in its head, went though the bottom. It as a difficult shot as you have to compensate for refraction of light in water. I was aided by polarized sunglasses. This was a stocked pond in Thailand, I was goofing around and it's not something that you would practice to fish(yes, we ate the fish). It was a Trumark S1 with locally obtained gum rubber flats. They were thick by our standards but cheap and interesting.

Why not target style?

Why would you lose accuracy in say, a WRP, a common starship(assuming you are using a pouch made for it instead of the .50 pouch supplied)?


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## Tex-Shooter (Dec 17, 2009)

You lose a little accuracy with the WRP, but not much. -- Tex


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## Brooklyn00003 (Feb 28, 2010)

mr.joel said:


> I agree it is pushing the limit as a hunting projectile, but I would say they are probably more suitable than the 3/8 steel even if lighter, in terms of performance. I would only even try it at short range. A .62 lead ball with Hunter bands it will never be, understood.
> 
> Interesting question: is this a better suited bullet for butterfly, x-bows, and starships? They work to shoot fish with in any event,


Using a crossbow, IMO would be pointless, as for starships the fork extension would increase the velocity, but at the expense of accuracy and portability, (they're also unfortunately illegal in a lot of places.) I think the butterfly would be the most suitable. BTW if you shot a fish with a bullet how would you retrieve it?








[/quote]
The point is a flat shooting economical to cast and carry bullet...like a .22LR...although this point and is taken with the x-bow.

The fish...I got lucky and we found it...it was a head shot and it darted off, a buddy found it floating minutes later with the bullet hole in its head, went though the bottom. It as a difficult shot as you have to compensate for refraction of light in water. I was aided by polarized sunglasses. This was a stocked pond in Thailand, I was goofing around and it's not something that you would practice to fish(yes, we ate the fish). It was a Trumark S1 with tapered bands.

Why not target style?

Why would you lose accuracy in say, a WRP, a common starship(assuming you are using a pouch made for it instead of the .50 pouch supplied)?
[/quote]

You lose accuracy because you can't control(shaking) the extended fork same much as you would with a regular.
However it all depends on you !I have a extended fork and when I shoot longer period of time with it I get pretty accurate too. Also helps alot if you are a instinctive style shooter this way shaking done's really affect you.


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## mr.joel (Dec 21, 2009)

I would think the less powerful bandset required would automatically make you shake less. Hence the "Target" vs. the "Express" style hands.


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## USASlingshot (Feb 25, 2010)

Get blue bands. Leave them standard with just add a taper, if you double layer you can hunt alot of stuff with these bands


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