# Natural Forks Drying



## Aras (Apr 2, 2011)

Hello everyone,

I wanted to make a natural slingshot out of nutwood, but I got a problem. So when I was drying this fork, it split. There's about 1 - 2 mm wide hole. I wonder how could I fix this.

What should I do?

Thanks for responses,

Sorry for my English.

Aras


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## gamekeeper john (Apr 11, 2011)

[quote name='Aras' timestamp='1302695055' post='68653']
Hello everyone,

I wanted to make a natural slingshot out of nutwood, but I got a problem. So when I was drying this fork, it split. There's about 1 - 2 mm wide hole. I wonder how could I fix this.

What should I do?

Thanks for responses,

hi, you could fill it with a 2 part epoxy resin glue, i normaly put a bit of superglue on the end of my forks when drying them out, it helps to stop them splitting, i now dry all my forks out in the microwave lol, it only takes about 2 minutes and i havn't had one split in there ever, john


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## Aras (Apr 2, 2011)

Is it possible to dry them in the oven?

Edit: I've made some photos:

http://slingshotforum.com/gallery/image/751-photo1/

http://slingshotforum.com/gallery/image/752-photo2/


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## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

Aras, glad you posted this in the forum,, I feel this will help out a few people with the same questions.

I know I will keep an eye on this

LGD


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## harpersgrace (Jan 28, 2010)

I can't see your pic as I'm using my phone but generally cosmetic cracks can be filled as said above with epoxy if you want it to be less noticeable you can mix in some of the sawdust from the wood you're working with. Microwave drying works well if you do a search there are a couple thread on drying.


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## mckee (Oct 28, 2010)

put super glue in and sand


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## The Gopher (Aug 25, 2010)

I've never heard of using sand as a filler, interesting. I would fill the crack with 5 minute epoxy mixed with sawdust. You don't need the sawdust it just helps to blend the epoxy into the surrounding wood.

As far as drying. When you cut a green fork immediatly apply wood glue such as titebond 2 to the cut ends, this will seal the ends of the fork. The reason forks or logs or bow staves split when cut green is that the water is leaving the wood faster from the cut ends than the surrounding wood. By sealing the ends you are forcing the water to evaporate slowly and evenly through the bark and there will be no splits. When i am cutting wood for bows, wood turning, you name it i always seal the ends as soon as i can. This method is the only way to go as far as i'm concerned if you will be cutting enough forks so that you always have a suppply. if you only occassionally make a natural than it is hard to wait for it to dry on its own, then use the microwave.

The microwave methods works because you are heating the wood from the inside and the water is beign pushed out. Jorg had a good post on it a while back, basically, weight the fork, then heat for two minutes, let it cool and weight it. heat again for 90 seconds, let cool and weigh. heat again for 60 seconds, let cool and weigh. continue heating for 60, coolign and weighign until you are no longer losing mass. It is important to let it cool bacause it is possible to start buring wood in the microwave. I've also used the microwave for drying boards that i cut from a log, same idea.


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## Curt (Apr 7, 2011)

The Gopher said:


> I've never heard of using sand as a filler


Umm... I think it was meant as.. Put in super glue and then sand it down.

Personally, I wouldn't trust superglue, I would go with the epoxy if it seems to be a structural issue. If it is just cosmetic, you could use a wood filler.


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## dhansen (Aug 31, 2010)

Fix the crack with epoxy.

If you hadn't stripped the bark off prior to drying, it might not of cracked.

Following this method, I have never had a fork crack while drying:
I leave the bark on until after 1 month drying in a cool dark dry place.
Cut the forks longer than needed and cut down to size after drying for 1 month, just in case the ends split.
No need to glue the ends.


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## harpersgrace (Jan 28, 2010)

And in the end no mater how you dry them some forks develope cracks, I did 6 forks from the same downed tree, oak. Dried them all exactly the same, 5 were perfect one developed cracks, you just never know. Always have extra would be my suggestion.


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## The Gopher (Aug 25, 2010)

That's funny, sometimes i read to fast and don't get the context...eats shoots and leaves.

I think there is a need to glue the ends, It probably depends on season, species, and relative humidity. Dhansen, i wonder if your wood has a lower moisture content to begin with? what species do you typically use? I always leave the bark on for drying, but if i don't seal the ends I will get cracks every time, without a doubt. I'm usually cutting ash, but buckthorn, ironwood (hophorn beam), hickory, cherry, etc will all get end checks everytime if i don't seal them. I've cut a lot of forks for slingshots and even mroe wood for bows and see it almost every time.


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## jmplsnt (Jan 1, 2010)

I cut my forks about 2 inches longer than I want the finished slingshot. I then place them on a table out in my shop building and don't mess with them for about three months. I don't seal the ends with anything, just cut them and lay them out. I then let Nature do it Her way and after the drying time has completed (probably a lot longer than it has to be but I play it safe and am well ahead on material) I can do my thing.

You can cut green wood the same way and keep it in your car for a month when the weather is warm.......it will be ready to go, perfectly dry and prepared to be come a slingshot.


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## dhansen (Aug 31, 2010)

The Gopher said:


> Dhansen, i wonder if your wood has a lower moisture content to begin with? what species do you typically use?


Gopher, I use oak mainly. Real hard stuff too. Don't know about low moisture content. Here in FL we have nothing but moisture all yr long in our environment. Very humid here. I've only had one crack, and that was when I stripped the bark off while it was still green. Gonna have to try the microwave method some day. best, Dennis


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## The Gopher (Aug 25, 2010)

Because the RH in yoru area is so humid the drying process will be slower since there is a smaller moisture differencial between the wood and the air, that's why yoru forks don't crack. The worst i've seen here in MN was when i cut down an ash tree last fall for my in-laws. I was savign wood for boards, forks, and bows. This was in November so the air was already pretty dry here but the tree was still very green. After i had the tree down and all cut up i was standing in the middle of all the wood when it was quiet and it sounded like a mini fire-cracker orchestra. I could hear all the wood cracking right then. Good thing i was rough cutting the forks with the chainsaw and left them long cause a half-hour later when i got to sealing them they were all splitting (about 40 of them).


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