# 3/8 vs 7/16 steel



## CatapultLaM

I killed some rats with both the 3/8 steel and the 7/16 steel, they don't seem to be different in killing power, instead of buying both which ammo should I buy? Any other ammo SIZE that you really recommend? And I don't and won't and can't have lead ammo, as I don't know how to make it and don't have any lead, and I don't really like it.

I have already seen the hunting setups page, didn't help me at all....


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## StretchandEat

44 cal lead or 3/8 hexnuts


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## Winnie

7/16 has more than half again as much mass as 3/8. Since blunt trauma plays a pretty big part in slingshot hunting/killing and penetration cannot always be depended on, the larger is better.

If all you are going to hunt is rats then it probably makes little difference though the larger will kill more humanly which is, of course, a hallmark of good hunting technique.

The hunting setups page does, in fact, have a huge amount of information. There is a vast amount of experience represented. It only needs to be applied.

The questions you ask and comments you make continue to confuse me.


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## CatapultLaM

Well, what I ment by it not helping me is that, it just confuses me on which ammo size I should stick to, and yes, I'd have to say that I am a rather confusing person. People say that they are quite successful using 3/8 ammo, which is the reason I don't understand to spend more money on 7/16 ammo. And I'd be hunting/killing mice,rats,pigeons,starlings, house sparrows, and squirrels.


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## SonoftheRepublic

Not that difficult really. If you're serious about hunting then buy some of both. Use the 3/8's on the "small" pests, and the 7/16's on the pigeons. As Winnie said, humanely dispatching you're prey with the appropriate ammo is important, and blunt trauma with larger ammo makes for a more humane kill.

As far as squirrels go, they're tough critters and I'd feel more comfortable with 1/2" steel (if you're stickin' with steel).

Just my 2 cents.


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## CatapultLaM

So I use the 3/8 on small pests meaning mice,rats,house sparrows, and starlings? And the 7/16 on pigeons? Although, I don't usually hunt pigeons and squirrels.


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## CatapultLaM

I hunt pigeons and squirrels to eat.


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## ghost0311/8541

5/8 marbles


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## CornDawg

Just use 7/16 all around. Hunting and target. That was your question, was it not?


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## CatapultLaM

Yes it was, would 1" straight cut at %500 elongination with that 7/16 ammo be good for overall hunting? Do you recommend any tapering?if so, what taper.


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## CornDawg

I've recently been turned on to the 1/8 inch taper. Try 7/8 x 3/4 in TBG. You'll eat well...

I don't shoot straights; the speed sucks...


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## gabeb

I agree with +CornDawg . But you will always have varying answers, the solution get both and shoot them to see which you like more. I can hit my target where I feel accurate so I use 3/8 because it is cheaper. I just got 3000 3/8 and 6 m of tbg and tbs for 80$ on Amazon. It is your choice and there is no answer that will always under every circumstance be correct.


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## Winnie

The 500% elongation is a red herring. Everyone pulls back to where the band stops. A decent discussion of bands cannot be had without including length. In this post as in your other posts you talk about 1' straight cut TBG to 500% elongation. It means nothing. A 9' band will shoot much faster than a 5'" band, as will a 13" band and each longer set will shoot successively heavier balls. You will also get significantly more speed by reducing your width and tapering your bands.

Take whatever 1" TBG band you are using now, disassemble it and take just one of the single bands and cut it into two pieces. Cut it on the diagonal so that each band is 3/8 x 5/8 (if you do it to both of the bands on your original band setup you will now have two band sets). Reassemble the bands with only one band on each side - you are now using half of your original rubber. Now shoot your 3/8 steel ball and you will get significantly more power (speed).

3/8" steel is a pretty light load for a 1" band set of any length. With latex you do not get more speed with more powerful bands if your ammo is too light. If you want to continue to use 1" then go to a heavier ball. You may even get more speed and you will definitely get more power even if you do not get more speed. A well balanced ammo/band set pulls smoothly and continuously throughout the time the ammo is in the pouch. If the ammo is too light you get a fast snap and a lot of handslap. If it is a well balance rig it pulls smoothly throughout with much more speed and no handslap.

Buy a rotary cutter at your local fabric store and some TBG and experiment. Or use the info in the hunting setups page.


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## Charles

Winnie said:


> The 500% elongation is a red herring. Everyone pulls back to where the band stops. A decent discussion of bands cannot be had without including length. In this post as in your other posts you talk about 1' straight cut TBG to 500% elongation. It means nothing. A 9' band will shoot much faster than a 5'" band, as will a 13" band and each longer set will shoot successively heavier balls. You will also get significantly more speed by reducing your width and tapering your bands.
> 
> Take whatever 1" TBG band you are using now, disassemble it and take just one of the single bands and cut it into two pieces. Cut it on the diagonal so that each band is 3/8 x 5/8 (if you do it to both of the bands on your original band setup you will now have two band sets). Reassemble the bands with only one band on each side - you are now using half of your original rubber. Now shoot your 3/8 steel ball and you will get significantly more power (speed).
> 
> 3/8" steel is a pretty light load for a 1" band set of any length. With latex you do not get more speed with more powerful bands if your ammo is too light. If you want to continue to use 1" then go to a heavier ball. You may even get more speed and you will definitely get more power even if you do not get more speed. A well balanced ammo/band set pulls smoothly and continuously throughout the time the ammo is in the pouch. If the ammo is too light you get a fast snap and a lot of handslap. If it is a well balance rig it pulls smoothly throughout with much more speed and no handslap.
> 
> Buy a rotary cutter at your local fabric store and some TBG and experiment. Or use the info in the hunting setups page.


Excellent, excellent advice.

Cheers .... Charles


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## robbo

i thought rats would be best with 5/16 steel


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## msturm

7/16 all day. You just have more options and more likelihood of killing your intended target cleanly. Tapers give you much more speed. I used to shoot straight cuts and I killed a lot of food with them, but moving from .76, 1 inch straight cuts to .72 1in-3/4 has been a game changer. With the same ammo I am getting about 20-25 fps more out of it, no hand slap and I am much more accurate as my slingshot hand is not holding a bunch of excessive draw weight and shaking.

I shoot 7/16 and 1/2 steels. Especially during duck season. I also shoot and prefer .410 cal lead (can't be used on waterfowl here). If I am after anything larger than a grouse or squirrel (muskrat, porcupine, crow, etc. its .50 cal lead and close range shooting.

I hope that helps. I too got frustrated with bands and ammo early on. I am still experimenting. I don't know what the winter temps are in "Love You" but just wait till you get to adjust everything for cold weather! lol.


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## msturm

Winnie said:


> The 500% elongation is a red herring. Everyone pulls back to where the band stops. A decent discussion of bands cannot be had without including length. In this post as in your other posts you talk about 1' straight cut TBG to 500% elongation. It means nothing. A 9' band will shoot much faster than a 5'" band, as will a 13" band and each longer set will shoot successively heavier balls. You will also get significantly more speed by reducing your width and tapering your bands.
> 
> Take whatever 1" TBG band you are using now, disassemble it and take just one of the single bands and cut it into two pieces. Cut it on the diagonal so that each band is 3/8 x 5/8 (if you do it to both of the bands on your original band setup you will now have two band sets). Reassemble the bands with only one band on each side - you are now using half of your original rubber. Now shoot your 3/8 steel ball and you will get significantly more power (speed).
> 
> 3/8" steel is a pretty light load for a 1" band set of any length. With latex you do not get more speed with more powerful bands if your ammo is too light. If you want to continue to use 1" then go to a heavier ball. You may even get more speed and you will definitely get more power even if you do not get more speed. A well balanced ammo/band set pulls smoothly and continuously throughout the time the ammo is in the pouch. If the ammo is too light you get a fast snap and a lot of handslap. If it is a well balance rig it pulls smoothly throughout with much more speed and no handslap.
> 
> Buy a rotary cutter at your local fabric store and some TBG and experiment. Or use the info in the hunting setups page.


I should have read this post before I said the same things. Winnie for president 2024.


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## StringSlap

msturm said:


> 7/16 all day. You just have more options and more likelihood of killing your intended target cleanly. Tapers give you much more speed. I used to shoot straight cuts and I killed a lot of food with them, but moving from .76, 1 inch straight cuts to .72 1in-3/4 has been a game changer. With the same ammo I am getting about 20-25 fps more out of it, no hand slap and I am much more accurate as my slingshot hand is not holding a bunch of excessive draw weight and shaking.
> 
> I shoot 7/16 and 1/2 steels. Especially during duck season. I also shoot and prefer .410 cal lead (can't be used on waterfowl here). If I am after anything larger than a grouse or squirrel (muskrat, porcupine, crow, etc. its .50 cal lead and close range shooting.
> 
> I hope that helps. I too got frustrated with bands and ammo early on. I am still experimenting. I don't know what the winter temps are in "Love You" but just wait till you get to adjust everything for cold weather! lol.


Hey msturm, great advice, but the OP hasn't been around for almost 4 years! Just sayin'! :rofl:


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## msturm

StringSlap said:


> msturm said:
> 
> 
> 
> 7/16 all day. You just have more options and more likelihood of killing your intended target cleanly. Tapers give you much more speed. I used to shoot straight cuts and I killed a lot of food with them, but moving from .76, 1 inch straight cuts to .72 1in-3/4 has been a game changer. With the same ammo I am getting about 20-25 fps more out of it, no hand slap and I am much more accurate as my slingshot hand is not holding a bunch of excessive draw weight and shaking.
> 
> I shoot 7/16 and 1/2 steels. Especially during duck season. I also shoot and prefer .410 cal lead (can't be used on waterfowl here). If I am after anything larger than a grouse or squirrel (muskrat, porcupine, crow, etc. its .50 cal lead and close range shooting.
> 
> I hope that helps. I too got frustrated with bands and ammo early on. I am still experimenting. I don't know what the winter temps are in "Love You" but just wait till you get to adjust everything for cold weather! lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey msturm, great advice, but the OP hasn't been around for almost 4 years! Just sayin'! :rofl:
Click to expand...

HA! I have a habit of not checking the OP dates... OOPS!


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