# Any benefits to paste wax after wipe-on poly?



## sjslinger (Jul 22, 2010)

I've been bitten by the slingshot bug again. 

Yesterday I started finishing up a slingshot I began a couple years ago (red oak boardcut). I finish sanded to 600 grit, then started with a couple coats of dewaxed shellac, followed by 4 coats of Minwax Wipe-on Gloss Poly scuffed with steel wool in between. I read that the Minwax stuff doesn't build until you have a good 8-10 coats on, so I'll do that. Do you have suggestions for a poly that is still relatively easy to apply and would build in fewer coats?

After this, I plan on achieving a smooth satin sheen - most likely with 1200 grit sandpaper.

I have some carnauba paste wax I bought at the hardware store from a previous project. I hear that paste wax needs frequent conditioning on items frequently handled, but I read of many slingshot makers using it. Would there be a benefit to applying paste wax afterward?

I'll post up the slingshot when it's finished of course!

Thanks all.


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## Cr2O3 (Aug 30, 2014)

I suspect paste wax would be beneficial to the grip as well as the contact point with the bands. The wax fills in and lubricates the micro-abrasions caused by steel wool. It would also increase the friction between the hand and the surface of the slingshot which I assume would be a good thing for the grip.

If you are looking for a better finish I would recommend a commercial tung oil finish. Minwax and Waterlox both make finishes they call tung oil but it is mostly shellac. The tung oil is a component of the finish and it helps provide a penetration to the wood. This finish thrives on a final pass of 0000 steel wool with a paste wax top coat rub. I've used this often for my projects for a tough waterproof satin finish and the tactile quality of the finish is top notch.

The downside is the drying time. Waterlox can be applied every hour or two and will cure completely within a day or two. When it comes to the minwax tung oil you're in for a good wait. For thick heavy coats of Minwax, each coat needs to dry until no longer tacky, if it's dry, you can get away with an hour or two between coats. If it is humid, you're looking at an overnight dry time between coats. The final drying or curing place it outside in the heat of summer for about a week. Once this is completely cured it's durable, flexible and waterproof.


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## Cr2O3 (Aug 30, 2014)

You could also use epoxy as an alternate finish. A pour on epoxy such like envirotex or system three could give you the heavy build up you want without the constant application of layers.

When building up layers for finish, it is not always necessary to sand or steel wool between layers of finish. There is some merit to sanding after the first coat since the wood fibers will raise up or some of the sanding dust will leave the resulting surface bumpy. After the initial coat is sanded, you may want to try layering your finish without sanding between applications. This will provide a heavier build up of the finish with fewer coats.


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## Greavous (Sep 29, 2013)

ive done a number of slingshots using water based poly and a nice wax job which includes a ride on the buffer. When I cut checkering into the grip areas I only finish those areas with wax and later a tooth brush for the buff part otherwise the checkering fills with polyurethane and the feel gets lost. Carnauba seems to get harder than say Johnsons's Paste Wax too.


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## Knoll (Nov 10, 2011)

It smells good.


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## kwinpr (Sep 25, 2014)

Personally, I've only applied paste wax over oil finishes (tung, lindseed, TruOil). I've never seen the need for it on top of poly finishes since the grain gets sealed. That's just me and I'm certainly no finishing expert.


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