# Strength for butterfly shooting + other styles



## ARB (Dec 31, 2009)

I've been doing some experimenting with the butterfly draw. I was basically trying to see what was the strongest rubber I could handle.

I set various rubbers at 28 cm and tried to draw them out to 155 cm.

Single per side Black Theratube - I could only draw it to half butterfly, couldn't straighten my drawing arm.
Dual per side Red Theratube - I could draw to full butterfly with a big effort.

After doing this a few times I could tell that the tricep of my drawing arm had received a serious workout! With some more training I expect to be able to butterfly the black Theratube. 2 of them are about 25% stronger than 4 of the red tubes.

There are other ways to get a 155 cm draw i.e a huge fork extension and drawing only as far as the cheek. Compared to the butterfly draw, heavier rubber can be drawn but a wrist brace becomes essential even for relatively light rubber. Although maybe some of the beasts on this forum can prove me wrong by shooting a big starship without a wrist brace!

A wrist brace is not essential for the butterfly draw (I didn't use one for the tests above) The tricep of my drawing arm was the limiting factor. Whereas with an unbraced starship, the wrist strength of the slingshot arm is the limiting factor. With a braced starship drawn to the cheek, the tricep of the slingshot arm and the deltoids/bicep/lat etc. of the drawing arm are the limiting factors

Does anyone have a comment on this?


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## Gwilym (Dec 9, 2010)

if you were drawing with your finger in an empty pouch you may find that when trying to grip a ball in the pouch to shoot the limiting factor will be finger strength. This is what always limits my draw strength.


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## ARB (Dec 31, 2009)

Gwilym said:


> if you were drawing with your finger in an empty pouch you may find that when trying to grip a ball in the pouch to shoot the limiting factor will be finger strength. This is what always limits my draw strength.


I forgot about finger strength! In my case I was drawing with balls of .5 to .75 in the pouch though. A very small ball would probably be harder to grip and be a limiting factor.


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## JoergS (Dec 17, 2009)

Use a thicker ball. You will find it a lot easier to draw, plus the heavy tubes will propel them very fast at 155 cm.

I shoot 1" steel with my TB black butterfly set.

Jörg


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## mr.joel (Dec 21, 2009)

I like shooting my little .31 lead balls, they shoot flat, but I must say this is too true. It is much easier to botch the release which is a lot of why most favor larger diameter ammo.


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## John McKean (Dec 24, 2010)

A bit of supplemental band training can be terrific for adding to draw strength and extra triceps power. Jumpstretch.com in Ohio has a range of powerful exercise bands that make such home training easy, and much more convenient than fumbling with the slingshot itself. I'd suggest their "mini -monster" band,which has a draw strength of around 45# at full stretch. Check their website for free videos for further instruction, or check some of my articles on strength with bands at www.usawa.com


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## ARB (Dec 31, 2009)

After some training and shooting with the dual per side red tubes, I can now shoot single per side black theratubes and can grip pretty much any size projectile I want (smallest I've used is .45 inch lead) This draw and rubber strength is most suited to shooting balls of at least .75 inch lead up to 1 inch lead. However I'm not sure i'm going to continue with this line of experimentation as the thought of a 1 inch lead ball flying past my head at 140+ fps makes me nervous....


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## ging (Mar 27, 2011)

double gold 2cm straight cut, double red tubes, pinching strength is premium, using first joint in thumb can give you more pressure, think i saw it on a youtube about korean traditional archery. 190ish cm draw with lead up to 11mm.


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## ging (Mar 27, 2011)

props on the skills


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