# A Recipe On Beeswax



## Quercusuber

Greetings SlingshotForum friends!!!

Today I'm going to show you a recipe on natural beeswax that can be useful for finishing wooden slingshots. This recipe is very easy and with few ingredients. It was given to me by a friend who works on a traditional furniture shop.









Here are the ingredients: a *sheet of natural beeswax* (in some shops, BW is sold in a shape of a cube or quadrangle or even in flakes), a *bottle of turpentine* and a *bottle of linseed oil* ...Ah! and, of course, a more or less handsome *natural slingshot*!! 















Here's the natural beeswax.















Next, you break the wax into little bits, and put them inside a glass jar. The jar goes into a pot or pan with boiling water until the wax reaches a melted state.















The melted wax.















Next, the secret he told me:

Mix *equal parts* of turpentine, linseed oil and beeswax on the jar. The 3 parts must have the same amount, and to do that with some precision, you can mark (with a permanent pen) some dots on the glass jar to divide the levels. Or you can use a graduated jar, those ones that are used on culinary.

And here's the final mix!! Wait about *1* or *2* hours to let it solidify to a paste

See ya on the 2nd part!!!! :wave:


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## Quercusuber

Hello again fellow slingers!!!

And here's the 2nd part of this recipe on natural beeswax.









As you can see, the finished paste presents the familiar yellowish hue of natural waxes. After some hours in a cool place, it hardens a bit, but not to a great extent. So, it is easily applicable and it is readily absorbed by the wood. For a better protection of your slingshot, I recommend to give it 3 or four coats of the wax, buffing them with a cotton or wool cloth in between.

Hope you liked these tips!!!





















Cheers ...Q


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## Charles

This is really great information. I would like to move these down to the tutorials section so they will not be so easily lost, but will do so only with your permission.

Cheers ..... Charles


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## Quercusuber

Charles said:


> This is really great information. I would like to move these down to the tutorials section so they will not be so easily lost, but will do so only with your permission.
> 
> Cheers ..... Charles


By all means sir!!!!

You can move them, the first and second part!!

And thanks for watching 

Cheers ...Q


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## e~shot

Hey Q, same way I did but, I put everything together on pot.


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## e~shot

Nice tutorial Q.


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## Quercusuber

e~shot said:


> Nice tutorial Q.


Thanks my friend!!!!

I'm glad you've liked 

Cheers ...Q


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## Btoon84

Lovely! Thanks for sharing. I'm lucky enough to get mine all mixed up. It's a mellow beeswax that steinway pianos use.


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## Btoon84

Awesome looking wax, and an AMAZING shooter you have there! :bowdown:


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## Quercusuber

e~shot said:


> Hey Q, same way I did but, I put everything together on pot.


Thanx for watchin'!!

The heat is needed only to melt the wax. After the wax is melted, You must add the other elements very quickly.

One can change these steps or even the material, as long as the final result is a paste.

I'm curious to see your method too!!! 

Cheers ..Q


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## Quercusuber

Btoon84 said:


> Lovely! Thanks for sharing. I'm lucky enough to get mine all mixed up. It's a mellow beeswax that steinway pianos use.


Awesome!!!

This recipe is used on traditional furniture and wooden handicraft here in Portugal!!!

Thanks for watching, my friend!!! :wave:

Cheers ...Q


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## Quercusuber

Btoon84 said:


> Awesome looking wax, and an AMAZING shooter you have there! :bowdown:


Thanks sir!!!!

Recognize the end cap?? The darker wood was given by YOU ...I'm still digging in your tiny bits, sir 

Cheers ...Q


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## Charles

I merged the two topics into one, and I have moved them down here to the tutorials section. But I left a link in the General section where they were originally posted. This is great information ... folks often ask how to use beeswax as a finish. Now there is somewhere to which we can point them.

Cheers ...... Charles


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## funkysod

Thank you very much for sharing this info. Good call copying it to tutorials!


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## mr. green

Thank you for sharing, Q. Awesome slingshot by the way, beautiful.


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## Quercusuber

Charles said:


> I merged the two topics into one, and I have moved them down here to the tutorials section. But I left a link in the General section where they were originally posted. This is great information ... folks often ask how to use beeswax as a finish. Now there is somewhere to which we can point them.
> 
> Cheers ...... Charles


Thanks a lot for your interest!!!

And the topic is fine as it is, sir!! 

This is not a very difficult recipe to make for everyone. Gives good protection to woods, though it is a little bit dull compared with a shellac finish.

Cheers ...Q



funkysod said:


> Thank you very much for sharing this info. Good call copying it to tutorials!


Thanks for watching, my friend!!!

Cheers ...Q



mr. green said:


> Thank you for sharing, Q. Awesome slingshot by the way, beautiful.


Thank you Mr. Green!!!

I'm glad you've liked the tutorial and the slinga!!!

Cheers ...Q


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## alfshooter

Gracias Maestro . fantástica pócima Querculiana.

Un abrazo


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## Quercusuber

alfshooter said:


> Gracias Maestro . fantástica pócima Querculiana.
> 
> Un abrazo


Muchas gracias amigo Alfredo!!!

Saludos hasta Madrid!!

Q


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## dan ford

Thanks Q I wondered how to make my own instead of using shop brought wax now I know thank you for sharing  
Is there any chance of a short tutorial on your olive oil and shellac finish pretty please ? Its a stunning finish and I'd love to give it a try if you don't mind .
Sweet fork by the way !!


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## flicks

Great tutorial and useful information Q. Thank you very much!


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## Quercusuber

dan ford said:


> Thanks Q I wondered how to make my own instead of using shop brought wax now I know thank you for sharing
> Is there any chance of a short tutorial on your olive oil and shellac finish pretty please ? Its a stunning finish and I'd love to give it a try if you don't mind .
> Sweet fork by the way !!


Thanks for watching, my friend!!!

Sometimes industrial wax can be more easily obtained than natural beeswax. Nevertheless, the natural product is always better (in my opinion) to finish in a traditional style.

Certainly I will post in the future something about oil and shellac finish. It never occurred me because it is so easy and available!!

Please be free to send me a PM on that, my friend, if you so desire 

Cheers ...Q



flicks said:


> Great tutorial and useful information Q. Thank you very much!


My friend Flicks!!!

Thanks for watching. I hope I'm being useful 

Cheers ...Q


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## Flycatcher

cool. i have a bunch of bees wax. ill have to give this a try.


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## leon13

Certainly I will post in the future something about oil and shellac finish. It never occurred me because it is so easy and available!! 
I woud like 2learn that 2 ????. Cheers and thanks again for charing


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## Quercusuber

leon13 said:


> Certainly I will post in the future something about oil and shellac finish. It never occurred me because it is so easy and available!!
> I woud like 2learn that 2 . Cheers and thanks again for charing


Thanks so much for your interest, my friend!!

Working with shellac is indeed cheap and easy, nevertheless has its subtleties.

Cheers ...Q


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## leon13

Quercusuber said:


> leon13 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Certainly I will post in the future something about oil and shellac finish. It never occurred me because it is so easy and available!!
> I woud like 2learn that 2 . Cheers and thanks again for charing
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks so much for your interest, my friend!!
> 
> Working with shellac is indeed cheap and easy, nevertheless has its subtleties.
> 
> Cheers ...Q
Click to expand...

so i am willing to lern. a video ? or tutorial ? obrigado


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## y.o.r.k

How long does it last to cure?


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## Quercusuber

y.o.r.k said:


> How long does it last to cure?


Are you referring to shellac or beeswax, my friend??

Cheers ...Q


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## y.o.r.k

It is the beeswax I am asking for


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## Quercusuber

y.o.r.k said:


> It is the beeswax I am asking for


It can depend on several conditions, as weather, type of wood and degree of polishing/sanding.

But normally, after the oil has penetrated and cured, I give it a coat. After 2 hours I buff it up a little and then I repeat the operation more 2 or 3 times. By the third time, you notice that the wax dries more quickly and you can polish it more properly. Sometimes, I apply all the 3 coats with intervals of 1 hour between them, let cure for a night and in the next day, I buff the piece.

Cheers ...Q


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## y.o.r.k

I will try this.


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## y.o.r.k

I mixed it! Tomorrow I'll apply it on my natural. The smell is a little strange ;-)


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## Quercusuber

y.o.r.k said:


> I mixed it! Tomorrow I'll apply it on my natural. The smell is a little strange ;-)


Good sir!!! Please show results 

About the smell, I kinda like it!! But don't inhale to much the uncured mixture, due to the turpentine 

Cheers ...Q


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## Quercusuber

y.o.r.k said:


> I mixed it! Tomorrow I'll apply it on my natural. The smell is a little strange ;-)


I applied this recipe on this one. You can take a look on the overall aspect.

http://slingshotforum.com/topic/25231-slimwaist-natural-slingshot/

Cheers ...Q


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## y.o.r.k

This is a slingshot I carved in my holiday. I like the tracks of the knife so I didn't sand this fork.
Now it's 3 times varnished with your beeswax-receipt. The last application needs to get a final polishing.


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## y.o.r.k

finished.

The final polish is still a little bit sticky, is this normal?


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## Quercusuber

y.o.r.k said:


> finished.
> 
> The final polish is still a little bit sticky, is this normal?


Nice natural!!!!! :thumbsup:

Yes, the final polishing may be a little sticky for some time. That means you can give it another couple of coats. Natural beeswax needs to be applied several times, depending on the absorbing capacity of the different woods.

But fine sanding helps a lot in making a good beeswax finish. I advice the following grits: 80, 220, 280, 350, 600, 1200.

Cheers ...Q


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## y.o.r.k

I tried a new (for me)setup. Double Theraband Gold, 20cm, tapered (2,5cm to 1,5cm) --> my heaviest Slingshot, 8,5 kg draw weight ;-)
And it's also my first waxed one.


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## matthiasdaues

Hello Q, thanks for the hint. Just one question regarding the proportions: Is it 1:1:1 in volume or in weight?

Cheers, M.


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## y.o.r.k

I did it "in volume" an this worked fine.


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## Withak

So, does it have to be turpentine? I've tried a recipe like this before, and based on my reaction to the turpentine, I suspect I am allergic to it - severe headache and nausea just getting a small whiff of the stuff. Could you possibly substitute another solvent product like mineral spirits?


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## Quercusuber

matthiasdaues said:


> Hello Q, thanks for the hint. Just one question regarding the proportions: Is it 1:1:1 in volume or in weight?
> 
> Cheers, M.


Hi Matthias!!

It is 3 equal parts in volume. Not in weight, because we are talking of different mass substances.

Cheers ...Q



Withak said:


> So, does it have to be turpentine? I've tried a recipe like this before, and based on my reaction to the turpentine, I suspect I am allergic to it - severe headache and nausea just getting a small whiff of the stuff. Could you possibly substitute another solvent product like mineral spirits?


I really don't know, but perhaps is possible to mix another product other than turpentine.

Nevertheless, I must say that inhaling turpentine does make some headaches and nausea, even for non-allergic people. So, your reaction might be normal. But you have to check!

Have a try at different products and tell us what you've found!!!

Cheers ...Q


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## tradspirit

Thank you for sharing my friend. A rustic and beautiful finish.


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## DukaThe

I don't know why I didn't see this topic earlier Very helpful, thank you!


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## Dr J

Thanks for sharing, sorry I missed it, great stuff!


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## AmmoMike

Thank you!

Mike


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## faca

That's can be used for leather?


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## parnell

Q,
I tried your recipe with a small variation. I didn't have any linseed oil so I used tung oil. It seems to have worked well. Here are my first results with it. http://slingshotforum.com/topic/30989-my-natracuts-from-forum-templates/?hl=natracuts


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## noah013

Can I use Boiles linseed oil?

Greetings, Noah013


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## Whitewolf

Thanks for the info!!

Dennis


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## leon13

Quercusuber said:


> matthiasdaues said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello Q, thanks for the hint. Just one question regarding the proportions: Is it 1:1:1 in volume or in weight?
> 
> Cheers, M.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Matthias!!
> 
> It is 3 equal parts in volume. Not in weight, because we are talking of different mass substances.
> 
> Cheers ...Q
> 
> 
> 
> Withak said:
> 
> 
> 
> So, does it have to be turpentine? I've tried a recipe like this before, and based on my reaction to the turpentine, I suspect I am allergic to it - severe headache and nausea just getting a small whiff of the stuff. Could you possibly substitute another solvent product like mineral spirits?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I really don't know, but perhaps is possible to mix another product other than turpentine.
> 
> Nevertheless, I must say that inhaling turpentine does make some headaches and nausea, even for non-allergic people. So, your reaction might be normal. But you have to check!
> 
> Have a try at different products and tell us what you've found!!!
> 
> Cheers ...Q
Click to expand...

hi Q i just use linseed oil and beeswax alone and it works fine 50-50 or just by feeling ay baling

cheers

sorry to hijack just wanted to give my to pennies if people don't like to use turpentine like me


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## parnell

noah013 said:


> Can I use Boiles linseed oil?
> 
> Greetings, Noah013


BLO already has mineral spirits in it. I wouldn't mix it with turpentine. Try it with beeswax and test it out.


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## hautamak

does it matter if I dont use beeswax sheet ? oh and have anyone tested with BLO and beeswax ?


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## Quercusuber

parnell said:


> Q,
> I tried your recipe with a small variation. I didn't have any linseed oil so I used tung oil. It seems to have worked well. Here are my first results with it. http://slingshotforum.com/topic/30989-my-natracuts-from-forum-templates/?hl=natracuts


BEAUTIFUL works!!!!!!

Thanks for sharing 

Cheers ...Q


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## hautamak

hautamak said:


> does it matter if I dont use beeswax sheet ? oh and have anyone tested with BLO and beeswax ?


Tested it and results was good at 50 BLO 50 natural beeswax

http://slingshotforum.com/topic/31348-slingshot-for-a-long-time/


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## Sharker

I make it itself yesterday, very smooth and creamy result . Sad that turpentine smell is dominant, i like when it smell like bee wax.


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## Poiema

I know it's an 'OLD' thread, but THANKS for sharing Mr. Q. Are you still using this recipe, or modified it any at all*?*












Sharker said:


> I make it itself yesterday, very smooth and creamy result . Sad that turpentine smell is dominant, i like when it smell like bee wax.


I agree Sharker. I like the beeswax scent as well.


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## Teach

Hey Q, nice natural there and good tutorial. Might I add a little tip of my own? Here is something for you to try for a much deeper penetration into the wood.

Instead of buffing in between coats, take a blow dryer and heat up the surface with it. It will cause the wax paste to melt making it thinner and thus more easily taken up and absorbed by the wood. Once you arrive at a point where you determine you have enough on your fork, you allow it to cool. Place it in a cool place and then buff once it is cool to the touch.

A little heat in a gentle manor such as this makes for a deeper finish.


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## sharp eye

Great tutorial and tips, thank you for sharing.


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## tradspirit

Thank you for sharing your recipe my friend! It certainly enhances the beauty of your amazing craftsmanship!


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## Chuck Daehler

Thinning with turpentine allows the wax to penetrate the wood fibers better and linseed polymerizes inside the wood too, making a solid plastic-like composite of the wood's cell structure. Thank you MUCH for posting the mix. I've got about a half dozen naturals in various stages of drying and finishing, will give this a go. Am a firm believer in lindseed in the form of boiled...but never used it on a slingshot, only gun stocks. I think I missed the boat...it's much easier to finish off than P.U. which requires 4 coats and some steel wooling and light sanding whereas your mix doesn't...just apply, dry, buff for a grip enhanced tough finish.


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## Viper010

Quercusuber said:


> matthiasdaues said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello Q, thanks for the hint. Just one question regarding the proportions: Is it 1:1:1 in volume or in weight?
> 
> Cheers, M.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Matthias!!
> It is 3 equal parts in volume. Not in weight, because we are talking of different mass substances.
> Cheers ...Q
> 
> 
> Withak said:
> 
> 
> 
> So, does it have to be turpentine? I've tried a recipe like this before, and based on my reaction to the turpentine, I suspect I am allergic to it - severe headache and nausea just getting a small whiff of the stuff. Could you possibly substitute another solvent product like mineral spirits?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I really don't know, but perhaps is possible to mix another product other than turpentine.
> Nevertheless, I must say that inhaling turpentine does make some headaches and nausea, even for non-allergic people. So, your reaction might be normal. But you have to check!
> Have a try at different products and tell us what you've found!!!
> Cheers ...Q
Click to expand...

Yes you can also use low odor mineral spirit it will only dry a little bit slower.


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