# Fork questions



## Morocoy (Jul 8, 2014)

Hi guys just a question on how I can go about knowing the right lengths of my fork? I have gotten one today which I cut and it seems a bit short. Will it work as a proper slingshot? Check the picture attached


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## Lacumo (Aug 18, 2013)

Looks good to me. I'm just starting to take the bark off of some forks I cut 6 months ago, and it surprises me how small a commercial slingshot frame is by comparison when you hold it up next to a good beefy natural fork that I cut.


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## August West (Jan 21, 2012)

I use my first two fingers to measure the forks, 4 fingers for the handle. I always have my measuring tools with me.


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## S.S. sLinGeR (Oct 17, 2013)

Just shape it till it feels nice for you. That's the fun of it. And when it's done caress that baby!


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## Morocoy (Jul 8, 2014)

Here she is barked and set to dry while I get sandpaper etc tomorrow.


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## Barky Bow (Jun 14, 2014)

That is looking good already. Just remember that it is your piece and it is what is comfortable for you. I try to get a picture in my head and then let the wood dictate the finer details.


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## Morocoy (Jul 8, 2014)

Thanks for the encouragement guys, this is my first time making or even owning a slingshot as an adult. I will post more updates as the project goes on.


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## oldmiser (Jan 22, 2014)

Welcome too the SSF Forum....That looks good debarked...Like others pointed out..shape the shooter till you

like how it feels for you ...Have fun shooting..May your ammo fly straight~~AKAOldmiser


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## Morocoy (Jul 8, 2014)

Hi guys, I have a qustion about choosing my finishing for the fork. Now I noticed that you guys use Tru Oil or linseed oil (these two I noticed are more promiment among others) to use as finishings to preserve the life, enhance the color and to really bring out the artistic beauty of the slingshots. Now here in Trinidad I have quite limited cost effective options.

1) The small Chinese shops do in fact sell linseed oil (which they use for cooking) which is processed and sold in a bottle. Is this adviseable to be used?

2) Also, I am familiar with a "sanding sealer" which I usually use on my doors which I have recently sanded down. This prevents moisture from entering the doors and gives it a nice tanned color. Right now I am partial to this method as I am familiar with the product.

I would really love to go with #1 as I'm all for the more natural products, but I am skeptical that linseed oil made for cooking is the same used to apply to my fork. Looking for some guidance


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## ChapmanHands (Oct 14, 2013)

I can't say for linseed oil as I have never uses out, but coconut oil makes a pretty nice finish, especially when mixed with some beeswax


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## August West (Jan 21, 2012)

I would use what you used on your door. Sounds like it will do a fine job.


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## Morocoy (Jul 8, 2014)

My tools (dont laugh) and a picture of my fork after heaviest grit sandpaper...I have to say I'm getting a proud feeling


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## Y+shooter (Sep 10, 2013)

Looking great!


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## Samurai Samoht (Apr 6, 2013)

Looks good man! Try the product that you are familiar with if you think it will work.

I have always been directed to use Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO), not just regular Linseed Oil, but maybe the better craftsmen can weigh in on that. I usually soak the frame in BLO for several hours, and after it has thoroughly dried I will apply several coats of Tru-Oil since it dries hard and buffs up nicely.

Can't wait to see the finished product.

Tom


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## tommyg899 (Jul 10, 2014)

joerge uses pretty low forks it is good the slingshot looks great man


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## Morocoy (Jul 8, 2014)

Opening up the groove for the rubber just about 1/4 of a centimeter, i noticed a split in my fork at the bottom of the handle and on top of either side of the fork. Is splitting normal for the wood while working it into the slingshot?


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## MagicTorch100 (Jun 4, 2013)

On the treatment theme Boiled Linseed oil is normally favoured as it has additives that allow it to penetrate and dry more quickly than raw linseed oil. You can use raw linseed oil, I used to for cricket bats, but it takes a lot longer to dry and needs a lot of work buffing / rubbing etc to avoid a gummy finish.

It sounds like the stuff you put on your doors would do the trick, or you can't go wrong with some bees wax, a few coats will seal the wood nicely.

Good first shooter by the way


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## monoaminooxidase (Jun 20, 2011)

Morocoy said:


> Opening up the groove for the rubber just about 1/4 of a centimeter, i noticed a split in my fork at the bottom of the handle and on top of either side of the fork. Is splitting normal for the wood while working it into the slingshot?


sadly, it is quite normal. splits often happen when wood is drying. depending on the kind of wood and the moisture you started with, a wood fork may split, usually at the end of fork or handle.

Some tricks to avoid it are to let it dry before you cut the forks to length, drying in a microwave, sealing the ends, these might be the basics - browse the forum, drying wood is a science.

on the finish: I've used raw linseed oil (the kind used for cooking) before, it was ok, took longer to dry, but it works.

I have to say, thats a real nice start in slingshot making, all the more considering the tools you've had - respect!


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## Morocoy (Jul 8, 2014)

Ok guys, my fork is fully dried, shaped, sanded and waiting to be sealed. I have been scouting around my island looking for rubber, its slim pickings but I'm sure I will find something ideal soon! Will keep you posted.


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## Sharpshooter II (Apr 15, 2014)

Looks good to me !

just make both the forks he same size and that'l be a buety


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