# 1842s vs 107s on my favorite frame



## M.J (Nov 1, 2010)

I've been playing around with 107 bands again just because changing things up keeps it interesting. I shot up a few targets for comparison purposes with 107s and looped 1842s, which is what I've mostly been using since I got the Performance Catapults SPS around Thanksgiving.
This is an utterly unscientific comparison, I just wanted to see what happened if I changed it up. I have 2 months practice with the 1842 setup and less than a day with the 107s. I shot 5 shots at each target from 10 meters and 25 yards since these are the ECST distances.
Here's my targets, labled with bands and distance:




























I figured out the 25yd/107 combo better after a little more practice.
Findings? 107s are smoother to shoot and possibly more consistent but much slower than 1842s. They draw quite a bit lighter, though so that's the trade off. I'm running them at 7.5" active length for my 34" draw. I had to really aim high from 25yd to get them to work but once I did they work ok. The speed difference switching to 1842s was almost a little disorienting at first.
I'll probably keep playing with 107s this week and see what I think then


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## Rayshot (Feb 1, 2010)

MJ,

You probably like the 107s since there is no tapering needed. But if you have some to play around with try tapering them from full width (15mm) to 10mm. The fps with a 3/8 steel is around 197 with the bands tied at 7 3/4 with a 30-31 inch draw. Too, obviously a lighter pull.


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## M.J (Nov 1, 2010)

Rayshot said:


> MJ,
> 
> You probably like the 107s since there is no tapering needed. But if you have some to play around with try tapering them from full width (15mm) to 10mm. The fps with a 3/8 steel is around 197 with the bands tied at 7 3/4 with a 30-31 inch draw. Too, obviously a lighter pull.


Yep, good suggestion Ray.
I used to taper 107s when I first started shooting. Same measurement, I'm pretty sure.
The only problem is I like to shoot 7/16" and I'm not sure a set of tapered 107s could throw the heavier ammo. They're cheap enough I should just make a set and see.
And you're right, I like 107s because they're cheap and simple


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## Rayshot (Feb 1, 2010)

M_J said:


> MJ,
> 
> You probably like the 107s since there is no tapering needed. But if you have some to play around with try tapering them from full width (15mm) to 10mm. The fps with a 3/8 steel is around 197 with the bands tied at 7 3/4 with a 30-31 inch draw. Too, obviously a lighter pull.


Yep, good suggestion Ray.
I used to taper 107s when I first started shooting. Same measurement, I'm pretty sure.
The only problem is I like to shoot 7/16" and I'm not sure a set of tapered 107s could throw the heavier ammo. They're cheap enough I should just make a set and see.
And you're right, I like 107s because they're cheap and simple








[/quote]

It shoots the 7/16 at a respectable 183 apprx at above specs.


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## NaturalFork (Jan 21, 2010)

107s are my go to target band for sure. I will break out the faster stuff if I ever decide to hunt ... or if i want to show somebody a slingshots true potential. However 107s just work for me. The last a long time, are cheap and easy.

I am also under the impression that once you dial them in they can be more forgiving than the faster rubber.

I did hit a beer can at 100 yards with 107s last summer so you can still distance shoot with them ... with greater adjustments.

Thanks for the post MJ!


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## Knoll (Nov 10, 2011)

Posting a comparison of shot placements was good idea!

Been using 107's for couple months. Straight and tapered. Tapered per Henry's specs. Active length (front of fork to back of pouch) about 7 1/2". Using 3/8" steel.

Compared to Tex's light-pull latex bands, seems 107's are good bit slower.

Longevity of tapered 107's have been problematic for me. I get several hundred shots compared to double that for straight 107's. Maybe should lengthen active length for tapered sets.

On balance, am happy with 107's for everyday target shooting. If were going to do a competition, I'd want sumpin zippier to achieve flatter trajectory.


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## M.J (Nov 1, 2010)

Temperature really does make a difference! I went out again in the afternoon and had way less trouble with 25yd/107 shooting since it was 10 degrees warmer.


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

Interesting results ... thanks for posting. I find 107s to be a pleasure to shoot. I generally do not shoot beyond 10 meters, and they are fine for that distance. I did experiments some time back with tapering them ... you can get impressive speeds with extreme tapers, and they will handle some reasonable weight ammo.

http://slingshotforum.com/topic/11038-taper-by-cutting/page__hl__%2Btaper+%2Bcutting__fromsearch__1

But as always, you lose on band life. These days I just shoot them straight ... tapering is too much trouble for target shooting.

I have been fooling around with full butterfly, or pretty close to albatross syle, just to see what it is like. I have been using two cut, full length 107s for the bands, and it is fun ... and I have been able to get decent accuracy. Just something else to try .... I am getting a draw length of about 48 inches, and even when you subtract 12 inches for the slack length of the bands, that is a very good acceleration length of 36 inches. Compare that to a draw length of 34 with a slack band of 7, which gives you only an active acceleration length of 27 inches. Sooo an active draw length of 36 inches compared to 27 inches. I have not yet put it through the Chrony, but experientially there is a significant increase in speed.

Cheers ...... Charles


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## bullseyeben! (Apr 24, 2011)

Thanks for the results mj; 
Had to hand draw a target today, when ever the missus tried to print a league Target, the computer re startts? Any way i always cut my bands so that I'm shooting at about 220- 250 fps for targets at 20m, it seems to be much easier not having to correct the drop of the ball due to faster speed, so having said that good shooting and aiming up, and if it works for you thats all you need, cheers Ben


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## M.J (Nov 1, 2010)

Yeah, faster is definately easier. Shooting slower bands at that distance really makes you pay attention. It can be done since the drop is constant so you can still compensate for it.
I've used really fast Theraband sets in the past and while I enjoy the speed I don't like it enough to justify the time and expense of cutting all those bands. Mostly the time. I_ really _hate cutting and tying bands!


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## M.J (Nov 1, 2010)

Trying half-doubled 107s on the SPS today


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

I like the half doubled 107s ... except for the draw weight. But if you want the speed, hate cutting tapers, and do not mind the draw weight, that is a good way to go ... cheap and easy.

Cheers ...... Charles


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## M.J (Nov 1, 2010)

Rayshot said:


> MJ,
> 
> You probably like the 107s since there is no tapering needed. But if you have some to play around with try tapering them from full width (15mm) to 10mm. The fps with a 3/8 steel is around 197 with the bands tied at 7 3/4 with a 30-31 inch draw. Too, obviously a lighter pull.


I'm trying these out today. Just to see how easy I could make it I marked them and then cut with scissors. The thick rubber is very forgiving and you can still make a good cut with some sharp scissors. I'll get a rotary cutter someday...
They're working really well so far, much faster than straight-cut.


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## Knoll (Nov 10, 2011)

I've made bunch of the tapered 107's using scissors to do the taper cut. Have always worked fine.


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## M.J (Nov 1, 2010)

Funny how things go around.
Here's my original post on tapering 107s from just over a year ago. It sank like a stone because this was the heyday of the Tearaband Gold era and nobody was interested in office bands yet.
The set I made today is cut 8", tapered 15mm to 10mm and tied for an effective length of 7.5". They're very schmoove and fast with 7/16. A real pleasure to shoot.


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## Sean (Nov 17, 2011)

How are you guys tying the half doubled system? I've seen Henry's 
Tutorial and was just wondering if it's pretty much the same?


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