# Carbon Cougar Custom Catty



## ZDP-189

Dayhiker asked me to repolish the fork hits out of his Cougar. Inspired by Joerg's own Desert Ironwood modified Cougar, he had me stick some slabs on it as part of the refurbishment project.

I thought I'd share some pics before I post it back.





































I would have liked to bring the carbon fibre up the fork arms to make a more ergonomically fitted handle, but that would have required covering up the logos and Bill had asked me to "make it like Jörg's". I used very thick carbon fibre slabs and spacers too, so the resulting handle is about 1.1" thick. It's polished smooth but offers plenty of grip.


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## JoergS

Fantastic work! I am much honored that my design is already getting customized.

I have never seen carbon fiber boards that thick! Thickest I get here is 5 mm. And if I round it, the edges look nothing like the original top. I think they put on some kind film to make it looking more sleek.

BTW, my "Desert Ironwood" Cougar is on its way to Tom (Bunnybuster), who wanted it so much that I could not say no. I don't do that very often, but for Tom, I am happy to make an exception.

Regards

Jörg


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## ZDP-189

The carbon fibre fabric in these sheets are very expensive. Many suppliers use carbon only for the face sheet as a decorative veneer; the lower sheets are probably Micarta or at best G10. I was lucky to get a couple of sheets of this stuff from another maker who had super thick sheets of pure carbon fibre. This stuff is both structurally rigid and carves to show layers and layers of carbon. You can tell it's real because it conducts heat better than G-10. The main drawback is it really destroys saw blades. A cut 7mm is all I can get out of a fretsaw blade before all the teeth are gone. A bandsaw blade lasts maybe 14mm. The only way to cut it is with a carbide tipped circular saw or sanded on an abrasive belt. It destroys belts too. Drilling isn't a problem, as long as you have a sharp bit, do it wet and clamp the piece down really hard to a sacrificial back to prevent blow out at the back. There is no cure for the carbon itch, though. Your skin gets these invisible and impossible to remove micro-splinters. I get black snot too, even when I wear a mask. You're in trouble if you get fibres in your eyes too. The veneer stuff isn't quite so nasty and is best for applications where strength is not so important and you don't see the edge, like inlays.


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## ZDP-189

BTW Jörg, how did you attach the slabs? I believe pins are necessary unless you cut the wood block to fill the voids. My process:


Rough shape the slabs
Epoxy (3-ton rating) on spacers
Predrill the slabs
Pre-shape the top of the slabs on a belt sander
Radius the top with a 10mm radius
Flatten the tang
Sand tang to a 40-grit finish to key it
Attach one slab
Fill the voids with epoxy and cure for a bit
Re-flat the tang
Re-drill the holes with a step drill
Epoxy the second slab in place
Re-drill the first slab and seat the holes with a step drill
Seat the holes in the second slab
Clean up excess epoxy with a brass scraper
Epoxy and screw in the Corby bolts
Sand the Corby bolts flat taking care not to over heat them
Sand the handle profile
Radius and shape the handle
Finish working up the grits and polish


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## ZDP-189

More images:


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## fish

bloody **** thats sweet!


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## JoergS

Love it!

I simply filled the holes in the steel frame with epoxy putty, then roughened the steel surface with sand paper and epoxied the grips to the frame.

Of course I used clamps to really press the grips on.

This seems to hold very good, maybe because of the epoxy clay. I tried to loosen them with the rubber hammer, but they held on.

Regards

Jörg


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## Sam

Beautiful slingshot, it will last a lifetime!


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## ZDP-189

Yes, epoxy putty is a good way to fill the voids.

One thing I'd recommend though, is that if people who are reading this are gluing slabs onto a tang (be it on a knife or slingshot) do not clamp too hard or you'll push out all the glue from the gap and the join will lack strength. Jörg's used epoxy putty which forms a connecting layer between the sides and even then it would be better if the clamp was firm but light.


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## Pro-Shot (UK) Catapults

Like the look of that one could you do this on a cast one? say like a flat face milbro?


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## ZDP-189

It's just the same. Look up Bells of Hythe. http://www.bellsofhythe.com/products.asp?catid=111


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## hawk2009

Wow great job


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## Dayhiker

Great work, Dan!!! This is amazing -- Can't wait to get my hands on this. I'm amazed at your work, and your taste is impeccable. I can't find the words to thank you enough.


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## ZDP-189

Thanks, Bill. I'm just glad you like my choice of materials, seeing as I deviated from the spec. I guess that's what I meant by "Desert Ironwood, subject to whim."

Anyway, it's in the post (I caught the post office closing by 5 seconds! LOL. Let us know how you find it.


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## Papa Total loss

If I wanted to buy this beautiful sling shot ........ what would be the price ?

Have Fun 
PTL


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## baumstamm

look great!!!!


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## Dayhiker

Papa Total loss said:


> If I wanted to buy this beautiful sling shot ........ what would be the price ?
> 
> Have Fun
> PTL










You would have to be willing to let me adopt you. Then I would leave it to you in my will.









Can't you see I'm in love?


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## Bugar

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!







!!!!


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## A+ Slingshots

ZDP you have really shown your skill and experience again!!!! Fabulous!!!


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## ZDP-189

PapaTL, you can always make Bill an offer! If I was in the business of doing this, I'd want upwards of $50 for the modification.

Personally, I'm a fan of your work and am open to trades for finished work or billets of carbon fibre. You certainly have the skills to fit it yourself.


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## Martin

You have done an amazing job, it looks stunning.
Martin.


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## USASlingshot

ZDP that looks fantastic, could you PM me with the price that something like that would cost but with some type of exotic wood? that looks soo good i want one like it


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## ZDP-189

I think the cost would be prohibitive the Cougar's not cheap and nor is the carbon fibre. It burns through sawblades and abrasives too. The work only takes a few hours, but carbon gets into my skin and I'd charge more for the labour. It's best to make a slingshot yourself in materials you can get locally.


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## USASlingshot

I have a cougar already, and I don't want carbon because it's pricie. I was thinking more along the lines of an exotic wood like rosewood or something else


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## Sam

You need to make more of those!


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## Flatband

Really nice work Dan! Flatband


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## Guest

Great job,Dan.


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## Roy

Wow you took a great slingshot and totaly made is really unique. nice work.


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## smitty

All I can say is WOW! Just an incredible job.


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## Sam

Does the handle improve the comfortability? Also how much did the carbon fibre cost?


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## Dayhiker

Sam said:


> Does the handle improve the comfortability? Also how much did the carbon fibre cost?


I haven't received it yet, but when I do, Sam, I will post a review.

-- Bill


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## ZDP-189

The thick handle improved comfort for em, at least. The carbon cost Bill nothing.

Your best sources (that I know of in the UK at least) are Paul or Rick:

http://www.britishbl...5-paul-hardwick

http://www.ukbladesf...ember.php?u=380

You'll probably have to sign up to these forums in order to contact them. You can mention my screen name.

Yes the carbon was expensive but it is particularly hard and unpleasant to work.


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## Dayhiker

sorry Dan. Forgot this was your post, not mine.


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## ZDP-189

Dayhiker said:


> sorry Dan. Forgot this was your post, not mine.


Well, I consider it _our_ thread, considering it's your slingshot.


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## Gandolphin

Most beautiful slingshot I had ever seen,
good job!

is it possible to make a slingshot made entirely out of carbon fiber?
(i saw jorg's video, but it seemed as if it was too thin and not comfortable) [now hard feelings







]


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## JoergS

Did you see my second all-carbon cattie?


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## ZDP-189

Well, I've made one in 1/8" carbon. It's very comfortable to shoot and I shot it today with heavy bands.

I actually started a frame in this carbon but a bandsaw or jigsaw blade lasts only an inch and a jigsaw blade about half that so it began to get expensive. Maybe I'll complete it.


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## ZDP-189

Jörg, it goes to show how strong and light G10 is. If the CF pattern only goes 1 ply deep then the majority of the boards is glass fibre (G10, sandwiched between CF). G10 is horrible to work, but carbon takes the biscuit. Carbon splinters are still coming to the surface. This popped to the surface this morning.










I can see others working their way up. I wonder what my lungs look like. I used a N95 mask, but still got black snot.


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## ZDP-189

We've seen a few of these projects now and I bet we see more too. If you're a maker or a client, these are some of the detail points to look for:

Jörg's signature and the Dankung logo should either be completely showing or completely covered, but not partially obscured.

The slabs should be flush with the metal frame with a consistent gap.

The slabs should be symmetrical and comfortable rounded or radiused. The overall handle size and shape should be comfortable and secure for the user's hand.

The slabs should be an exhibition grade material. The material should be of sufficient hardness and durability to last as long as the frame.

Softwoods and burls should be stabilised and burlwoods and desert ironwood should have all voids filled. Hydroscopic materials like horn or woods that walk should not be used for slabs.

Grain should be bookmatched or made to run as if through the steel. Grain direction is important too.

The sides of the slab should either be ground flush with the steel or be deliberately inset with a consistent offset. There should be no overhang or sharp edges from warping/ expansion.

Ideally, some visual contrast detail should be provided such as a spacer or filework.

The slabs should be affixed securely and if there is any concern with warping then the slabs should have an additional mechanical fixings such as pins.

The surface finish should be clean and free of abrasion. If a sanded finish is desired then the handle should be brought to a near-polish and then the handle hand rubbed back to the desired finish. These finishing marks must me consistent and aligned on both sides if directional.

The tip of the slabs that do not abut the edge should be the same as the rest of the slab. The polished frame by this join should remain polished and show no sign of scratching. There should be no glue seepage or gaps (filled or unfilled).

The frame should be polished or finished without washing out the detail or edges and without streaking.

The overall look should be tasteful and in keeping with the original frame.

This doesn't mean that modifications that fail to meet thse criteria can't be beautiful and functional, but it's how a knife would likely be judged at a show and this construction is basically the same.


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## Jaybird

The carbon looks nice,but is it worth the health hazard??


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## dude101

Have just spent two days polishing the dings out of my cougar,
this is the most amazing work i have seen.............................wow


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## Dayhiker

Jaybird said:


> The carbon looks nice,but is it worth the health hazard??


Well . . . considering that it wasn't _me _who was exposed to the health hazards , , , I' say *yeah*!


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## ZDP-189

Cough cough it .... was ... worffff ... worth .. it


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## JoergS

I. vividly remember how miserable I felt last time I made a CF slingshot. No, it is not worth it UNLESS you have a full set of protective gear. A paper mask is not sufficient, you need coveralls and a true filter mask.


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## USASlingshot

i honestly do not think its worth it. all of the chemicals that goes into it seems very unsafe without the proper gear


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## christopher

I give that piece of art 4 out of 5 kitten licks.


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