# Making your own bands from latex milk (teaser..)



## Melchior (Dec 27, 2009)

Hey Guys,

Who of you didn't think about vulcanizing your own latex bands?

I'm in the process of doing it..after all, that's what a chemist is there for! The first test batch is not yet in the proper shape for real bands, but the material has very promising properties. Its elongation before break is well over 800%, and it can be molded in any thickness I like. A canted glass plate would give bands with varying thickness, so a "3D" tapering could be possible.

I'll keep you informed on the process..


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## Metropolicity (Aug 22, 2013)

Melchior said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> Who of you didn't think about vulcanizing your own latex bands?
> 
> ...


The possibilities are endless!!


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## myusername (Oct 5, 2013)

isnt it difficult to remove the air bubbles and get it to an even thickness/consistency?


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## Melchior (Dec 27, 2009)

Getting even thickness ans consistency is quite easy, all you need is a glass plate to cast the rubber on. The air bubbles are an issue, but they can be minimized by a number of precautions.


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## Greavous (Sep 29, 2013)

if you were to use glass or plexiglass and make your mold with a top, bottom and one side you could pour into the mold and fill it above the wall surface relying on the surface tension of the latex to prevent spilling over. Once cooled you could use the top of the form/wall as a trimming guide. The mold would then create both tapers.


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## Imperial (Feb 9, 2011)

Greavous said:


> if you were to use glass or plexiglass and make your mold with a top, bottom and one side you could pour into the mold and fill it above the wall surface relying on the surface tension of the latex to prevent spilling over. Once cooled you could use the top of the form/wall as a trimming guide. The mold would then create both tapers.


time for the cnc guys on here to help out with a mold.


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## Melchior (Dec 27, 2009)

That does not work, the latex must be cast in a plate that allows evaporation of water.


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## Sunchierefram (Nov 16, 2013)

Do you think that this will actually work? And do you think the end rubber will be good?


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## Melchior (Dec 27, 2009)

Well, the rubber sits right in front of me, and looks pretty good.


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

This sounds really cool!!!! I am very anxious to hear more about the process. Where are you getting the latex milk??? I wonder how hard it would be to get it here in Canada.

By all means do keep us posted.

Cheers .... Charles


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## Imperial (Feb 9, 2011)

Charles said:


> Where are you getting the latex milk??? I wonder how hard it would be to get it here in Canada.


latex cows :rofl: :neener: (i wanted to be mr. obvious)


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## Flatband (Dec 18, 2009)

Go get em Mel!!!! We talked about it years ago-pouring our own liquid latex and polymer bands. Get ready for 12-1300% elongation! Can you say 800fps? We love chemists!!!!! :king:


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## ash (Apr 23, 2013)

Liquid latex is easy to get at an art, craft or costume supplier. It could be an expensive way to get bands, though.

Latex works best when applied in very thin layers, so I would suggest applying it with a squeegee or roller and getting your taper my applying subsequent layers over a diminishing proportion of the surface as you go. It may even be possible to reinforce the tie areas with tissue paper or fibreglass strands or just an increased thickness of latex.


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## Deano 1 (Oct 11, 2013)

I played with this many years ago when I worked with it, we had a tank that held round 12 barrels, that's about 600 UK gallon I think. We used to dip dry plaster master figures in for set times, and the latex would thicken on the plaster while it was submerged. We used to leave the majority in for six hours and we'd end up with a rubber jacket about 7mm, which would shrink to about 5mm on drying. Because I had an endless supply of this wonderful liquid I played, played and played some more, I probably even re-invented the wheel. I did make some descent 6mm and 8mm square by routing out a block of plaster ( Herculite no.2 ) with the appropriate router bit and depth, allowing for around 10% shrinkage, but I had to do it in layers because if I just filled the mould, the liquid would take hold of the plaster and shrink away from the middle, leaving a horrible hole in the middle of the elastic.

If you want tapered tubes, just dip a dowel or a s/steel rod like you would a candle, letting each coat dry first and the rubber will be thicker at the bottom. Don't use copper or anything with copper in it because it instantly rots the liquid and sends it green.

I hope this has helped and I'll keep my eye on this one to see if I can help any more :nerd:.


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## wombat (Jun 10, 2011)

Deano 1 said:


> I played with this many years ago when I worked with it, we had a tank that held round 12 barrels, that's about 600 UK gallon I think. We used to dip dry plaster master figures in for set times, and the latex would thicken on the plaster while it was submerged. We used to leave the majority in for six hours and we'd end up with a rubber jacket about 7mm, which would shrink to about 5mm on drying. Because I had an endless supply of this wonderful liquid I played, played and played some more, I probably even re-invented the wheel. I did make some descent 6mm and 8mm square by routing out a block of plaster ( Herculite no.2 ) with the appropriate router bit and depth, allowing for around 10% shrinkage, but I had to do it in layers because if I just filled the mould, the liquid would take hold of the plaster and shrink away from the middle, leaving a horrible hole in the middle of the elastic.
> 
> If you want tapered tubes, just dip a dowel or a s/steel rod like you would a candle, letting each coat dry first and the rubber will be thicker at the bottom. Don't use copper or anything with copper in it because it instantly rots the liquid and sends it green.
> 
> I hope this has helped and I'll keep my eye on this one to see if I can help any more :nerd:.


Yeah I had a go at making my own bands too with pure latex, but without the added vulcanization, it just wasn't worth it. But I did consider using chopsticks as a mandrel for dipping. A chopstick is about the right length and is tapered, so if you're patient after a dozen or so dips you could end up with a custom made tapered tube!!


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## Melchior (Dec 27, 2009)

@Gary: We both knew it would happen one day!

There's no good in using "normal" liquid latex, as it is pre-vulcanized and usually compunded with vulcanizing agents that don't give us the desired physical properties. One must start from scratch, with pure latex milk, accelerators and sulfur.

I don't expect to make a rubber that is superior to the current "Hytone" latex sheetings. But I hope to match that quality, with bands of 1.5mm (0.06") thickness and a higher overall band life.

Attached is a picture of the first slingshot test rig. The bands are not suited for butterfly shooting  but they work pretty darn good for their short length. Now I have to evaluate their lifespan, and cast some real, full length bands.


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## leon13 (Oct 4, 2012)

oh and don`t forget to put, for me, some bill hays accuracy in it ;-)

cheers

ps : so cool this forum really rock


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## Deano 1 (Oct 11, 2013)

I couldn't help myself. I dug out some 5 year old latex liquid and it was still perfect like the day I stuck in the back of the cupboard. Here's a set of bands in the making, There's a few tiny air bubbles on the surface because I couldn't be bothered to dig out the degasser as well.

It's just poured on to a mirror.


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

Just keep going, guys ... I really want to see how this works.

Cheers ...... Charles


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## Melchior (Dec 27, 2009)

Ok guys, the first test shows the rubber to be too soft, it breaks after ~100 shots. But the power ist great. Let me modify the compounding formula...


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## Mr.Teh (Feb 28, 2012)

It's good to have a chemists on board, I wish you good succeed


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## Deano 1 (Oct 11, 2013)

Deano 1 said:


> I couldn't help myself. I dug out some 5 year old latex liquid and it was still perfect like the day I stuck in the back of the cupboard. Here's a set of bands in the making, There's a few tiny air bubbles on the surface because I couldn't be bothered to dig out the degasser as well.
> 
> It's just poured on to a mirror.
> 
> ...


Well my latex finally dried, I cut them to 20mm straight and fitted them to my new micarta slingshot. I've just shot around 150 12mm lead balls non stop, the power is mental and there is no wear what so ever, they still look brand new.


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## Viper010 (Apr 21, 2012)

Very very interesting in deed fellas! Please, keep developing and keep us posted!


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## Melchior (Dec 27, 2009)

Deano1, I presume you used prevulcanized latex? Can you tell me what type of latex you used exactly?


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## Deano 1 (Oct 11, 2013)

Melchior said:


> Deano1, I presume you used prevulcanized latex? Can you tell me what type of latex you used exactly?


It is just bog standard dipping rubber. I'm not even sure what vulcanizing is.


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## Melchior (Dec 27, 2009)

...update: I have managed to find an excellent recipe for slingshot rubber. Great extension, high elasticity and long flex life...a full sized sheeting will be made this week. This rubber, custom tailored to our slingshooting needs, has the potential to become the next big thing. Hey, oldtimers may remember..I brought you Theraband, Linatex and played my part in bringing Chinatube to the West..now I'm going to make the perfect slingshot rubebr myself, and have reached the limit of what's possible :king:


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## Mr.Teh (Feb 28, 2012)

Hey hallo Melchior,

i wanna contact you but your mailbox is full, i try it tomorrow again,

regards mr.teh :wave:


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## Tex-Shooter (Dec 17, 2009)

Hey Mel, maybe you need a African on board I have a friend from there that tells me that there is some there that still do it. Cheers -- Tex :cookie:


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## Melchior (Dec 27, 2009)

Tex, I'd love to know more about that!


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## Tex-Shooter (Dec 17, 2009)

So would I Mel! -- Tex


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## Melchior (Dec 27, 2009)

The first real-scale batch is ready. Bands on the slingshot are still older test bands. The ongoing trials will tell us what the rubber can do. So far I believe it to be superior to any other type of rubber. Lets see how many shots it lasts!


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## Dr J (Apr 22, 2013)

Excellent, how about the cost? I could send you a few hundred rubber trees but unfortunately they are Tropical,so would never survive. LOL


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## Flatband (Dec 18, 2009)

Looks a little like Vulkollan Mel. Hope it works Bud! I know with you filling the beakers and test tubes,something good is going to happen!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Deano 1 (Oct 11, 2013)

Deano 1 said:


> Deano 1 said:
> 
> 
> > I couldn't help myself. I dug out some 5 year old latex liquid and it was still perfect like the day I stuck in the back of the cupboard. Here's a set of bands in the making, There's a few tiny air bubbles on the surface because I couldn't be bothered to dig out the degasser as well.
> ...


I've shot 50 to 100 balls every day since, except for 2 days when I've been too busy, that's 12 days, around 700 shots, and the bands still look new. I've just poured 4 more sheets.


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## Deano 1 (Oct 11, 2013)

1100 to 1200 shots and they finally gave up.















And here we are back in business again, just a little shorter.









Here's a little of the damage done by these home made bands.


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## Melchior (Dec 27, 2009)

That looks like the bands from prevulcanized dipping latex are a viable alternativ. Nice find!


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## Sunchierefram (Nov 16, 2013)

Over a thousand shots! And looks like good shoots too. You sure did a fine job with this!


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## beanmachine (Nov 17, 2013)

so when are these bad boys gonna be available for the public


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## myusername (Oct 5, 2013)

beanmachine said:


> so when are these bad boys gonna be available for the public


whenever you make your own


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## Deano 1 (Oct 11, 2013)

myusername said:


> beanmachine said:
> 
> 
> > so when are these bad boys gonna be available for the public
> ...


They couldn't be simpler, just pour liquid dipping latex onto some glass which you have made a barrier to contain the liquid. I used para cord taped down with masking tape. You have to be patient and let it dry for a few days, then peel it off and put it on a radiator to cure, it goes translucent almost, then just treat it like any other bands.


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## leon13 (Oct 4, 2012)

hy some "brand" advice would be nice,or a link to the vendor,i would like to give this a try !

thanks for al the info

cheers


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