# Aiming Question



## RonanMcLlyr (Jan 12, 2022)

Hey I'm curious, I just made this slingshot a week ago and it's my go to shooter now. I'm really consistent on normal can size and in and around a 3" circle on paper, all at 10m. The question is how do I aim at smaller targets? I don't know if you can see in the pics but I have a .22 plinking steels that go from 3" to 1". I can hit the 1" but it's kind of a guess with ott but specially with this type of ott. With ttf's I can see the target.
Any thoughts?


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## S.S. sLinGeR (Oct 17, 2013)

Can’t help you much here. I shoot at at 45* and I twist my pouch 180* and I shoot instinctive so I do not aim. Lots of good shooters here aim though so I’m sure you will get your answer. Good luck.


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## brucered (Dec 30, 2015)

Yup....aim small, miss small.

I generally hold my OTT frames at a big it an angle, so have a reference point for aiming.


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## karaolos (Jan 12, 2014)

Do you hold the slingshot sideways with the bands on top of one another? Is the target obscured behind the forks of the slingshot?


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## Karloshi (Apr 6, 2021)

When I was hitting 10cm target regularly I moved down to 7cm and then gradually moved down to 3cm where I am at now. What I thought was happening was I was just inconsistent with my technique (pouch hold, elbow up, forks level...). What I eventually noticed was that my aiming reference point at the tip of the fork wasn't small enough. I started aiming at the exact point at which the bands meet the tip of the fork, along the edge of the bands. Basically aiming at the band tip and not the fork tip. As I am shooting 0.50 bands that means the aiming reference is half a mm. I may be wrong but it is working for me. Basically if you have to aim very small to hit very small. 

Also going to a smaller target takes a while to get the shooting averages up but if you then go back to the larger target you will start to see how closer your groupings are.


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## RonanMcLlyr (Jan 12, 2022)

karaolos said:


> Do you hold the slingshot sideways with the bands on top of one another? Is the target obscured behind the forks of the slingshot?


Yeah, I have no problem with 3" circles or the cans, just smaller than 2".


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## karaolos (Jan 12, 2014)

So when aiming, you should be seeing 3/4 of it, and 1/4 obscured by the fork tip, correct?









Some good advice in earlier posts. Maybe shoot at some paper, see what's happening...


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## RonanMcLlyr (Jan 12, 2022)

karaolos said:


> So when aiming, you should be seeing 3/4 of it, and 1/4 obscured by the fork tip, correct?
> View attachment 366930
> 
> 
> Some good advice in earlier posts. Maybe shoot at some paper, see what's happening...


 this is essentially the fork tips. They are rounded. With the way the bands fold over my aim is about a 1/4 of the way down the tip. When I shoot at really small targets they are almost completely obscured. I'd it was a flat top like a Sparrow I don't have an issue. Lol. Just keep working at it. 😄


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## hoggy (Apr 17, 2017)

RonanMcLlyr said:


> this is essentially the fork tips. They are rounded. With the way the bands fold over my aim is about a 1/4 of the way down the tip. When I shoot at really small targets they are almost completely obscured. I'd it was a flat top like a Sparrow I don't have an issue. Lol. Just keep working at it. 😄
> View attachment 366936


those 50lb tool hooks make some nice frames.


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## Biker_Bob (Mar 26, 2020)

The fork tip gap affects the impact point. If the gap is narrower the ball will hit higher and if the gap is wider the ball will hit lower (assuming you use a fixed anchor and a tip-of-the-fork aiming point). It sounds like your forks are just a little too wide to shoot at the range you're shooting, you can see the top of the larger targets but the smaller target disappears behind the fork tip.


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## StringSlap (Mar 2, 2019)

No adjustable sights, so you're going to have to use Kentucky windage. Draw a 3" circle and shoot 10 shots at it. If your shots tend to cluster towards the top of the target, you will have to hold low for smaller targets. If they cluster towards the bottom of the circle, you need to aim a bit high on smaller targets. If your shots are centered, but hitting left or right, then you have to adjust in the same manner as above, just left or right. I do not recommend changing your anchor for smaller targets or different distances. May work for some, but seems counter intuitive to me. A slingshot will only be dead on at a small window of distance (example 10 - 12 yards). Everything else (closer, farther, smaller, uphill, downhill, etc) with have to be compensated for.


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## David D (Oct 20, 2020)

What brand and weight of rubber is that you are using? Thanks


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## Biker_Bob (Mar 26, 2020)

StringSlap said:


> No adjustable sights, so you're going to have to use Kentucky windage. Draw a 3" circle and shoot 10 shots at it. If your shots tend to cluster towards the top of the target, you will have to hold low for smaller targets. If they cluster towards the bottom of the circle, you need to aim a bit high on smaller targets. If your shots are centered, but hitting left or right, then you have to adjust in the same manner as above, just left or right. I do not recommend changing your anchor for smaller targets or different distances. May work for some, but seems counter intuitive to me. A slingshot will only be dead on at a small window of distance (example 10 - 12 yards). Everything else (closer, farther, smaller, uphill, downhill, etc) with have to be compensated for.


Spot on this, everything you need to know is right here.
I know I keep banging on about my adjustable width slingshot, but goodness it makes life a lot easier for me!


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## Adonis (Jun 19, 2020)

My suggestion to you, practice on paper and see how you are hitting it. After that just practice practice practice to develop memory muscles.

peace


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## RonanMcLlyr (Jan 12, 2022)

David D said:


> What brand and weight of rubber is that you are using? Thanks


Snipersling .45mm taper cut 20-12.


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