# pouch leather weight?



## TSM (Oct 8, 2013)

So, I was going to try to make some pouches out of some REAL leather. I'd been using a bag of, what's described as, leather scraps from a local hobby supply store (Hobby Lobby). I'm not convinced that what I've got is real leather, or, if it is, it's not very tough. It works well enough for pouches on light bands or tubes for target shooting. I tried it with 3/4" straight cut doubles and tore the pouch right off. So, my question is, when shopping for leather for pouches what is the ideal leather weight?


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## treefork (Feb 1, 2010)

I believe its more of an issue of quality and thickness. Leather is an organic material and subject to decay and dryness from age. You may be able to salvage your existing stock by doubling it up using contact cement. You may even just need reinforcement in the area of the band attachment.


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## August West (Jan 21, 2012)

Imo this is the hardest part of making your own gear, finding good leather for pouches. Basically good leather is where you find it. I have salvaged old purses, gloves, baseball mitts, furniture samples and everything else you can imagine. LOL The one tip I have found that makes great pouches is gluing two pieces of thin leather together with washable fabric glue or barge cement. So far this technique works the best for me. Also a member that used to be on this site, Jeff Lazerface, glued two pieces of thin leather together with a piece of silk in the middle, I have made some fantastic, low stretch pouches that way.


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## TSM (Oct 8, 2013)

I was checking online for scrap leather and saw it described as 3-4 oz or 9 oz. I imagine heavier = thicker. I hadn't thought to double the pouches. Any ideas as for adhesives?


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## TSM (Oct 8, 2013)

August West said:


> Imo this is the hardest part of making your own gear, finding good leather for pouches. Basically good leather is where you find it. I have salvaged old purses, gloves, baseball mitts, furniture samples and everything else you can imagine. LOL The one tip I have found that makes great pouches is gluing two pieces of thin leather together with washable fabric glue or barge cement. So far this technique works the best for me. Also a member that used to be on this site, Jeff Lazerface, glued two pieces of thin leather together with a piece of silk in the middle, I have made some fantastic, low stretch pouches that way.


I don't know why I didn't think of that. I've got leather all over the place, if I just look around a little.


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## August West (Jan 21, 2012)

I already mentioned barge and I have also had good luck with some washable fabric glue I bought at walmart, I'll have to check the brand, Ailleen's or something like that.


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## TSM (Oct 8, 2013)

I knew I could count on the SSF to set me in the right direction. Thanks guys!


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## August West (Jan 21, 2012)

also this may help.


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## TSM (Oct 8, 2013)

^ perfect.


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## tivo532 (Nov 20, 2013)

The ones I got from Michaels looks ok. No tear yet. Cheers!


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## Sunchierefram (Nov 16, 2013)

I use duct tape pouches because I'm too lazy to go find quality leather.


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## Flatband (Dec 18, 2009)

Go for a 4 -5 ounce leather,could be split cowhide,full grain,sueded, pigskin or Kangaroo. Look for a regular temper. They usually list the temper whether very soft ,soft, moderate,regular,firm or stiff. You can also go for layered pouches using a few layers glued together using thinner stuff. I can recommend Rayshot for this type. He makes excellent pouches. HRawk does the Kangaroo and a bunch of us do Pigskin and cowhide if you would rather purchase. Check e-bay under cowhide leather hides or sueded leather hides. You'll find something.


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## Tex-Shooter (Dec 17, 2009)

It depends on the quality of the leather. First, I would use only top grain because it is stronger. In a quality top grain boot leather, a thickness of 1.6 to 1.9 MM is Is about right. It also depends on wheather you are wet forming the the leather or not also. Top grain crome taned boot leather wet forms very nice. I am shooting only wet hand formed pouches now, because I get fliers with center holes. -- Tex


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## stej (Jan 16, 2013)

Tex-Shooter said:


> It depends on the quality of the leather. First, I would use only top grain because it is stronger. In a quality top grain boot leather, a thickness of 1.6 to 1.9 MM is Is about right. It also depends on wheather you are wet forming the the leather or not also. Top grain crome taned boot leather wet forms very nice. I am shooting only wet hand formed pouches now, because I get fliers with center holes. -- Tex


You mentioned you had filers with center holes. Can you tell how big the holes were compared to ammo? 50%, or more? I would expect that it's because the holes were too wide..

I cut the holes narrower just because I expect that wider holes = fliers on the way.


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## TSM (Oct 8, 2013)

Yeah, I stopped using center holes because of fliers, too. Just a hole for the bands/tubes and an "x" drawn on for the center.


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## Flatband (Dec 18, 2009)

Top grain is okay for some, I personally like sueded pigskin leather, split cowhide. I think Pigskin suede weighing in at around 4-5 ounces with a regular temper is the best leather of any I tried-and I tried everything from Sting ray skins to duct tape. You have to make your own decision. Some like a very soft pouch. I prefer a semi stiff pouch. I never had any problem with a small center hole causing fliers. Fliers are 90% a release issue.


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## TSM (Oct 8, 2013)

Well, it's not "all" a release issue, but I'm correcting that. The only way I had to make a center hole was with a standard paper hole punch. After a few shots I found that my 3/8" steel would start to slip through more and more. Thanks for all your help. At least now I know what to ask for instead of just "hey, y'all got any scrap leather".


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