# Making Lead ammo



## Slingshots rule (Apr 5, 2011)

Hey guys
My dad just got me some lead







from some tiere weights and i would like some tips on how to cast it. Also does anyone have a mould for sale. Pls help because i really need some tips
Thanks
SR


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## THWACK! (Nov 25, 2010)

Slingshots rule said:


> Hey guys
> My dad just got me some lead
> 
> 
> ...


I might sell mine. I'm probably finished making as many .495 balls as I need. Of course I would sell it with the special pot and the ladles. Where are you located?


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## Pro-Shot (UK) Catapults (Apr 21, 2010)

Hi we sell a 10 gang 16mm mould if you are intrested www.milbroproshotuk.com


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

There is some pretty decent information on Youtube ... search on "casting bullets". These are not bad:











Rather than casting balls , you may be able to just cut the wheel weights into chunks using a band saw or bolt cutters. While not as precise, it is a lot easier and gives good plinking or hunting ammo.

Cheers ........... Charles


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## THWACK! (Nov 25, 2010)

Mine, BTW, is dual cavity - you can make two balls at the same time - slower, but safer to use, than more multiple cavities.

Safety is primary. Must have good ventilation (NOT INDOORS UNLESS YOU'RE IN A VENTILATED GARAGE/SHED). Should be covered in clothing long sleeved, long pants and not
made of any synthetic material which can melt into your flesh (yuck). Should wear leather boots, eye protection and welder's gloves. Plenty of how-to instruction is on the net.

Most important is to be safe from burns! And don't inhale the toxic fumes!


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## Slingshots rule (Apr 5, 2011)

THWACK! said:


> Hey guys
> My dad just got me some lead
> 
> 
> ...


I might sell mine. I'm probably finished making as many .495 balls as I need. Of course I would sell it with the special pot and the ladles. Where are you located?
[/quote]
Australia


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## Slingshots rule (Apr 5, 2011)

Hogancastings said:


> Hi we sell a 10 gang 16mm mould if you are intrested www.milbroproshotuk.com


 Sorry thats a bit out of my price range. i can not afford to pay $70 SORRY


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## THWACK! (Nov 25, 2010)

Who said $70????

I said I have about 70# of wheel weights.

You're in Australia, mate?

Ummmmmmmmm, can you row?


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## Slingshots rule (Apr 5, 2011)

no thats for hogans casting


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## Slingshots rule (Apr 5, 2011)

how much to post it over here THWACK


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## bootneck (Feb 20, 2011)

just stick your fingertip in some moist sand and pour the molten lead in if you dont want to wait, it works very well too


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## Slingshots rule (Apr 5, 2011)

wont that explode


bootneck said:


> just stick your fingertip in some moist sand and pour the molten lead in if you dont want to wait, it works very well too


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## Pro-Shot (UK) Catapults (Apr 21, 2010)

Hi Thwack your first comment below are you implying that the moulds we make are not SAFE? please be more specific i have over 35 year in the foundry industry
if you care to take a look at my post on our moulds you will see that at all time i have said that the moulds we make are with safety in mind??? sorry if i have got the wrong end of the stick! its just we have spent a lot of time /money and effort getting these mould in the shop window and a general open post like this can cores confusion with the less knowledgable thanks and all the best Pete


THWACK! said:


> Mine, BTW, is dual cavity - you can make two balls at the same time - slower, but safer to use, than more multiple cavities.
> 
> Safety is primary. Must have good ventilation (NOT INDOORS UNLESS YOU'RE IN A VENTILATED GARAGE/SHED). Should be covered in clothing long sleeved, long pants and not
> made of any synthetic material which can melt into your flesh (yuck). Should wear leather boots, eye protection and welder's gloves. Plenty of how-to instruction is on the net.
> ...


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## THWACK! (Nov 25, 2010)

Hogancastings said:


> Mine, BTW, is dual cavity - you can make two balls at the same time - slower, but safer to use, than more multiple cavities.
> 
> Safety is primary. Must have good ventilation (NOT INDOORS UNLESS YOU'RE IN A VENTILATED GARAGE/SHED). Should be covered in clothing long sleeved, long pants and not
> made of any synthetic material which can melt into your flesh (yuck). Should wear leather boots, eye protection and welder's gloves. Plenty of how-to instruction is on the net.
> ...


[/quote]

Hi, Pete

What we're addressing here is apparently a young lad whose daddy gave some wheel weights to cast. I'm assuming that he is rather young; he lets us know that he has zilch experience with what we know can be a dangerous undertaking if the proper precautions and procedures are not met, so it just seems to me that starting off on a smaller scale would be safest for him, until he gains more experience. I don't need to sell my equipment, nor did I plan to, he asked and I figured if the price is agreeable, perhaps I'll sell my equipment. What you should be noticing was my insistence that he engage in SAFETY while fabricating, with which I'm sure you'll agree. I don't care whose equipment he uses, and I wasn't knocking your equipment or offer.

And, yes, definately, I accept your apology, for I have also been guilty of misinterpretation on (hopefully rare) occassions. : )


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## Pro-Shot (UK) Catapults (Apr 21, 2010)

I Would total agree that first and formost SAFTY must all ways come first when entering into the black art of self casting.I am a member of a few slingshot forums
and crindge at some of the self proclamed casting experts who dish out advice on HOW TO.casting metal into wood moulds? pore metal into damp sand?
casting metal into a mould dont get me wrong its not rocket science but a hole heap of common sense is a must.


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## slingshot_sniper (Feb 20, 2011)

I'll attest to that today i got a mold yes I did ask for advice but none was forthcoming,anyway I cast a few balls and with what molten lead was left I deposited on a spoon...well it crackled and popped,which got me thinking molds have to be completely DRY!!!..good job I read what Pete posts


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## THWACK! (Nov 25, 2010)

slingshot_sniper said:


> I'll attest to that today i got a mold yes I did ask for advice but none was forthcoming,anyway I cast a few balls and with what molten lead was left I deposited on a spoon...well it crackled and popped,which got me thinking molds have to be completely DRY!!!..good job I read what Pete posts


Yes, even one drop of water in your molten pot of lead will cause an explosion, and, my friend, you don't want any part of your body/face near it. That's why, when I mold (always outside), I always wear a bandana on my forehead to keep sweat from dripping into the pot, and I also wear a see-through face shield (HarborFreight.com).


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## slingshot_sniper (Feb 20, 2011)

Thanks THWACK.I now pre heat my mold


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## THWACK! (Nov 25, 2010)

slingshot_sniper said:


> Thanks THWACK.I now pre heat my mold


I lay a corner of my mould on the (gas) burner at the same time the burner is heating the pot. It's always ready to take the lead and form it perfectly.


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## mckee (Oct 28, 2010)

i thought they stoped lead for wheel weights and replaced them for something safer?


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## THWACK! (Nov 25, 2010)

Hogancastings said:


> I Would total agree that first and formost SAFTY must all ways come first when entering into the black art of self casting.I am a member of a few slingshot forums
> and crindge at some of the self proclamed casting experts who dish out advice on HOW TO.casting metal into wood moulds? pore metal into damp sand?
> casting metal into a mould dont get me wrong its not rocket science but a hole heap of common sense is a must.


Yes, Pete, that's why it's good for folks to seek advice from established pros such as yourself rather than from some self-proclaimed "expert" who has been lucky enough not to be scarred or blinded for life. We see a lot of these types of guys on YouTube, giving "tutorials" of every kind, which can really whack them in the butt with personal injury/liability lawsuits resulting from injury which could have been avoided. Unfortunately, there's no "policing" of the vids in that respect. Viewer beware!


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## THWACK! (Nov 25, 2010)

mckee said:


> i thought they stoped lead for wheel weights and replaced them for something safer?


Environmentalists are doing their thing to get rid of lead. Some other substances have been introduced to phase out the lead, such as Zinc (Zn). Here in the states, one has to pick through what he receives (free!) from the auto repair shops to make sure that he is melting only lead.


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## Slingshots rule (Apr 5, 2011)

i read some where that you can make a mould with plaster paris? does this work?
Does anyone have an old mould for sale or trade that i can get for not much money cos im on a limedt buget
Thanks


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## THWACK! (Nov 25, 2010)

Slingshots rule said:


> i read some where that you can make a mould with plaster paris? does this work?
> Does anyone have an old mould for sale or trade that i can get for not much money cos im on a limedt buget
> Thanks


Trade for what?


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## mr.joel (Dec 21, 2009)

- Sort your wheelweights: the shiny clean ones that don't oxidize(not meaning new ones) have aluminum and/or other metals which will ruin your casts. They are obvious, they look unlike your usual colored weights as they look like they were made of aluminum. The square ones that look like sections of a chocolate bar are pure lead which is a bit more difficult to cast by itself. The tin in the clip type weights makes the alloy more forgiving so alloy them together.

- You should preheat your mold blocks to dissipate any moisture, but also you won't get clean castings with cold blocks. Do this carefully and not directly in your heat source.

- If you want to really do it right get a #2 or #3 Rowell ladle. http://www.theantimo....com/ladles.htm

- A casting thermometer is a nice thing to have. If not, don't start pouring casts until the melt has a purplish hue on the surface of the melt, then it is hot enough.

- flux every 15-20 minutes with parrafin, beeswax, or preferably a good casting flux. Marvelux from Brownells is OK for wheelweights. http://www.midsouths...=00048083030050 Flux before you remove the clips as this facilitates the dross clinging to them making the job of initial dross removal easier. Sometimes when fluxing you have to scrape the sides of your pot as oxides build up...I find a street sweeper blade good for this as it is springy, scrape downward only using the tip and wrap the handle portion with a bit of leather. Be careful as the springy blade can launch drops of molten lead if you're reckless with it.

- use a fan, if using a fire get two, one to blow on the fire to speed things up and the other to blow the fumes away from you.

- If your bullets are sticking in the mold, use a Q tip with a little DRY lubricant in the cavity,NEI Mold Prep is good, not much or it will deform the ball...don't forget to lubricate the pivot of the mold every time you use it. NEI also makes some of the finest molds in the world in any round ball size from .30-1.18 inches and wad cutters as well if you want go that route. Spendy, but world class molds. http://www.neihandto...om/catalog.html

Pete's molds are easier to use as there is no sprue cutter to deal with and teflon coated to alleviate the problem of bullets sticking in the cavities. Iron mold blocks have less tendency for this than aluminum, but will rust quickly if not lubricated between uses. Molds with sprue cutters do save your lead a bit as the the spures are smaller and therefore less material to be re-cast. You lose %20-%30 of the material every time you melt it down, so smaller sprues mean less waste. In a humid environment aluminum blocks definitely have an advantage in this regard. Iron holds heat longer, but takes longer to heat up. If looked after they tend to outlast aluminum, but both work good. Like anything, you get what you pay for, a cheap China made LEE mold won't last nearly as long as a RCBS or Lyman set of mold blocks.


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## Slingshots rule (Apr 5, 2011)

i dont know
they could choose


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## Slingshots rule (Apr 5, 2011)

mr.joel said:


> - Sort your wheelweights: the shiny clean ones that don't oxidize(not meaning new ones) have aluminum and/or other metals which will ruin your casts. They are obvious, they look unlike your usual colored weights as they look like they were made of aluminum. The square ones that look like sections of a chocolate bar are pure lead which is a bit more difficult to cast by itself. The tin in the clip type weights makes the alloy more forgiving so alloy them together.
> 
> - If you want to really do it right get a #2 or #3 Rowell ladle. http://www.theantimo....com/ladles.htm
> 
> ...


wow thanks this is a good help

can i make a mold out of plaster


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## mr.joel (Dec 21, 2009)

NO...it's been done, but don't go there. If you're really on the cheap just get a LEE mold for about 25-30US$


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## bootneck (Feb 20, 2011)

Slingshots rule said:


> just stick your fingertip in some moist sand and pour the molten lead in if you dont want to wait, it works very well too


[/quote]

I used to do this all the time and never had any problems myself, if the sand was wet rather than moist I'll bubble and not really work, if i remember correctly the romans did it to make expiediant bullets for there slings.

Anyway if it makes you feel better you can put some gloves and glasses on, Im not the best to take safty advice from as i can only tell you my personal experiance's but my 'safety' equiptment was a bucket of water to put any burns i may get in so it doesnt blister up, I never really had any issues exept from the odd burn, but do your best to limit the amount of risk to yourself and use common sense i.e don't put your face near anything hot for a start!

And for gloves you can't get better than some flash proof and slash proof CQB gloves as there nice and tight so you won't be fumbling around dropping ladles full of molten lead in your lap or anything, and there great for all round hand protection (like the dirt in my garden has lots of glass shards in it for some reason so i use mine for gardening as well, and of course work).

I will apoligise as when Im saying idea's or giving advice i often assume anyone reading has enough common sense not to hurt themselves, i wouldn't want anyone hurting themselves because i did'nt tell them not to stick there face in a ladle of molten lead lol (read that humourously but also seriously)


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## slingshot_sniper (Feb 20, 2011)

Oh and just for UK guys: Lead ammo is illegal over any wetlands in Scotland and England has a no lead ammo policy on foreshores/scientific places of interest,just be careful to use steel in these areas


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## Jacktrevally (Feb 14, 2011)

Slingshot rule,

I've used plaster of paris a few times before for rough casting. It comes in powder form (mix with water to form a paste) and you get a 'lost' mould which needs to be broken after casting. I will be un realistic to make such a mould all the times. You'll have to dry it properly as well and have surface shrinkage cracks.

As, I told you before I have stopped casting lead for years now. I still have a blacksmith hand operated open furnace at my father's workshop and I remember using those long pair of heavy forged iron thongs to pour the crucible over.

I was wasn't carful at the time and what I was doing was very dangerous pouring lead directly over water to make tear drop shape ammo!!!! Don't do this!

The problem is to make sure the lead has stayed in a dry environment and no contact with water when heating it.


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## Slingshots rule (Apr 5, 2011)

i made this lead ladel

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k514/slingshotsrule2/Picture316.jpg
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k514/slingshotsrule2/Picture315.jpg
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k514/slingshotsrule2/Picture314.jpg
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k514/slingshotsrule2/Picture313-1.jpg
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k514/slingshotsrule2/Picture312-1.jpg
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k514/slingshotsrule2/Picture313.jpg
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k514/slingshotsrule2/Picture312.jpg


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## THWACK! (Nov 25, 2010)

mr.joel said:


> - Sort your wheelweights: the shiny clean ones that don't oxidize(not meaning new ones) have aluminum and/or other metals which will ruin your casts. They are obvious, they look unlike your usual colored weights as they look like they were made of aluminum. The square ones that look like sections of a chocolate bar are pure lead which is a bit more difficult to cast by itself. The tin in the clip type weights makes the alloy more forgiving so alloy them together.
> 
> - You should preheat your mold blocks to dissipate any moisture, but also you won't get clean castings with cold blocks. Do this carefully and not directly in your heat source.
> 
> ...


...and, those street sweeper blades make wonderful lock picks after you've put a file or small grinder to them... don't ask me how I know : )


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## slingshot_sniper (Feb 20, 2011)

THWACK! said:


> - Sort your wheelweights: the shiny clean ones that don't oxidize(not meaning new ones) have aluminum and/or other metals which will ruin your casts. They are obvious, they look unlike your usual colored weights as they look like they were made of aluminum. The square ones that look like sections of a chocolate bar are pure lead which is a bit more difficult to cast by itself. The tin in the clip type weights makes the alloy more forgiving so alloy them together.
> 
> - You should preheat your mold blocks to dissipate any moisture, but also you won't get clean castings with cold blocks. Do this carefully and not directly in your heat source.
> 
> ...


...and, those street sweeper blades make wonderful lock picks after you've put a file or small grinder to them... don't ask me how I know : )
[/quote]
Oh please tell I'm interested


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## mr.joel (Dec 21, 2009)

Jacktrevally said:


> Slingshot rule,
> 
> I've used plaster of oaris a few times before for rough casting.
> The problem is to make sure the lead has stayed in a dry environment and no contact with water when heating it.


Yes casting with plaster of Paris is possible, but not advisable. It will explode if any moisture or air pockets are in it. It's simply too dangerous and tedious with so many other casting options available, IMO. I'm sure in ancient times there were experts in doing this but in these days there is no need.

If the lead were wet while casting, surely the water would evaporate before it melted, although this would cause it to oxidize more than the usual creating more wasted material than using dry lead. Covering your eyes(360 degrees) and hands (with leather) are minimum protection, and this can't be stressed enough. If a drop of molten lead hits water it is like a mini molten grenade, keep any liquid at a safe distance, outside obviously keep a sharp eye for rain-this would bad...very, very bad. If you have common sense and remember the phrase, "don't be a dumbass," you should be fine.

@Twack-yeah, they make the ultimate pipe scraper too


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## THWACK! (Nov 25, 2010)

slingshot_sniper said:


> - Sort your wheelweights: the shiny clean ones that don't oxidize(not meaning new ones) have aluminum and/or other metals which will ruin your casts. They are obvious, they look unlike your usual colored weights as they look like they were made of aluminum. The square ones that look like sections of a chocolate bar are pure lead which is a bit more difficult to cast by itself. The tin in the clip type weights makes the alloy more forgiving so alloy them together.
> 
> - You should preheat your mold blocks to dissipate any moisture, but also you won't get clean castings with cold blocks. Do this carefully and not directly in your heat source.
> 
> ...


...and, those street sweeper blades make wonderful lock picks after you've put a file or small grinder to them... don't ask me how I know : )
[/quote]
Oh please tell I'm interested







[/quote]

Naughty boy! You'll probably be able to find the patterns for lock picks on a Google Image search. Might find them on locksmith supply house websites, might find them on YouTube - you'll also need a "tension wrench" which you can also have fun searching. The two tools work together. I'd YouTube "lockpicking", might even go to the library and find a book on locksmithing, might go to Palladin Press, might do lots of things...


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## slingshot_sniper (Feb 20, 2011)

THWACK! said:


> - Sort your wheelweights: the shiny clean ones that don't oxidize(not meaning new ones) have aluminum and/or other metals which will ruin your casts. They are obvious, they look unlike your usual colored weights as they look like they were made of aluminum. The square ones that look like sections of a chocolate bar are pure lead which is a bit more difficult to cast by itself. The tin in the clip type weights makes the alloy more forgiving so alloy them together.
> 
> - You should preheat your mold blocks to dissipate any moisture, but also you won't get clean castings with cold blocks. Do this carefully and not directly in your heat source.
> 
> ...


...and, those street sweeper blades make wonderful lock picks after you've put a file or small grinder to them... don't ask me how I know : )
[/quote]
Oh please tell I'm interested







[/quote]

Naughty boy! You'll probably be able to find the patterns for lock picks on a Google Image search. Might find them on locksmith supply house websites, might find them on YouTube - you'll also need a "tension wrench" which you can also have fun searching. The two tools work together. I'd YouTube "lockpicking", might even go to the library and find a book on locksmithing, might go to Palladin Press, might do lots of things...
[/quote]
Oh I know all about them and where to get them already,I was just interested in seeing yours









P.S dealsextreme do some nice sets


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

Hey .... a combo slingshot/lockpick ... What a concept!!! I'm gonna get to work on that right away!

I started making lockpicks some 50 or more years ago ... lots of stories over the years ... I usually make them from hacksaw blades. I stopped carrying them because of the severe penalties these days. You do NOT want to cross an international border or try to get on a plane and have them found during a routine shearch. You can buy nice sets these days ... apparently it is not a crimnal offense to own them. There are lockpicking clubs in many places. Youtube has some good instructional stuff. But lockpicks are usually classed as "burglars tools" and you can get into deep doodoo for carrying them ... crowbars are legal to own, but carrying one around concealed late at night might just get you a trip to the crowbar hotel ... same story with lockpicks. Have fun ... be smart ... be careful.

Cheers ...... Charles


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