# My first but not my last



## shane Wink (Aug 30, 2014)

I had some G10 laying around the shop and decided to build an SS from it. I laminated a billet, researched here for a couple days and made 20 something templates before I finally got one to fit right. I ordered some clips from Mr Hays and will get them mounted when they arrive.

I am not sure which bands to choose or even how to go about choosing the correct band and ammo size for my draw and strength. so any help there is welcomed

Also if you see a flaw in the design please point it out and I will try to fix it.

5 3/4 long

5/8's thick G10

2 3/8ths between the forks

1" fork width

sanded to 1k then worked in a coat of teakwood oil and will ad a few more after the clips arrive the holes drilled.


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## you'llshootyereyeout (Apr 5, 2014)

There is one MAJOR flaw. That being this shooter is not already in MY possession! Good grief that's the coolest looking thing I've seen in a minute! I am on the edge of my seat to see what you do next.


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## shane Wink (Aug 30, 2014)

Wow , Thank you! Once the clips come in I will look at them. I have some titanium tubing and think when I drill the holes out for the clips I will instal the ti tubing , flare it so I can use it for bands or tubes as I dont know which I will even like yet


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## Nelson (Jul 13, 2014)

SPECTACULAR. Greetings :bowdown:


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## quarterinmynose (Jan 21, 2012)

Outstanding! She looks a dream.

If you have the stuff to make your own bands then try some TBG or .030 latex at 400% elongation or so, with a taper of 1" to 3/4". That's a good starting point. Soooo many options to try though. If you don't have the stuff to start making your own maybe buy a couple bandsets from simpleshot or one of the other vendors to get your feet wet.


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## shane Wink (Aug 30, 2014)

I am planning to buy the sets but at some point will learn to make my own.


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## Flatband (Dec 18, 2009)

Flaw? Shane, you nailed it Bud! That frame reeks coolness!!!!!!!!


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## Btoon84 (Nov 22, 2011)

Very nice! Excellent first one dude!!! I'd love to see a pic of it in your hand if that's not too much trouble  I know you gave dimensions, just sorta size reference. Looks fantastic :thumbsup:


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## JonM (Aug 17, 2013)

That's one of the best looking G10 frames I've seen in a long while. Well done :wave:


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## shane Wink (Aug 30, 2014)

Thank yall very much for the kind words. Its very easy to work with G10 with basic tools and I would be happy to help anyone that ask.

Here are the pics you asked for Btoo84


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## stinger (Jul 6, 2014)

It's awesome! Love the blaze orange core! It's a really nice shape Shane. Well done


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## VillageSniper (Jan 22, 2013)

Very nicely done. It looks futuristic or straight from the movie Tron. An Area 51 appeal to me. I like it.

Vs


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## J Stacy (Aug 7, 2014)

Excellent craftsmanship! Those complex surfaces look almost molded they are so perfect. Congrats on a great job.


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## e~shot (Jun 3, 2010)

Cool!


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

A very Artistic machine.


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## Samurai Samoht (Apr 6, 2013)

Man that looks awesome!! I like everything about it. Great job!

Tom


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## PorkChopSling (Jan 17, 2013)

Awesome!


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## wombat (Jun 10, 2011)

I just noticed some of your other work in the intro section. No wonder this came out so nice. Looking forward to some more.


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## Creakyboy (Feb 15, 2014)

Beyond beautiful, and with a level of craftsmanship that I can only dream of, It makes feel like a bit of a d%#k for saying this but to avoid potential band wear You might want to soften the inside edges of the fork tips....the only reason I even noticed was from just staring at it for so long (yes I admit it I was drooling )  genuine expert level of finish and a great design :thumbsup:


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## carboncopy (Jan 14, 2014)

WOW, that looks superb!

Great job!


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## S.S. sLinGeR (Oct 17, 2013)

Real nice job on that!


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## Dr Dave (Mar 16, 2014)

Absolutely awesome work! You'll love the clips Bill Hays makes. You can mount tubes with them also as is. TBG bands and 3/8" steel balls is a good starting point. I've chosen to stay with this setup.
Again, beautiful work.


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## Jolli4688 (Aug 18, 2013)

love it, the colours work well together =)


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## Byudzai (Aug 31, 2013)

Wait so what are the materials? Two pieces of laminated G10 and one piece of orange G10?


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## Chukar8 (Aug 21, 2014)

Sweeet


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## Pilgrim (May 3, 2014)

Very nice piece of work!


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## Tag (Jun 11, 2014)

Beautiful craftsmanship


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## shane Wink (Aug 30, 2014)

Creakyboy said:


> ... It makes feel like a bit of a d%#k for saying this but to avoid potential band wear You might want to soften the inside edges of the fork tips....


You are correct sir about the need to soften the edge but not about being a goob as I did ask and appreciate it. I left it hard till I decided what propulsion system I would go with and fork width. In the end Gamekeeper Jon and I went with tubes on this one and I will try the bands on the next few.

Guys if you get the layered G10 or if you lay it up in multi-layers just use the contours of the layers to show you were its uneven. The molded finished look comes from sanding to 1000 then buffing with green compound and finally a few coats of teakwood oil. I use smooth-on for the glue and dye it to match the colors I am binding so there are not any gluelines. Smooth-on is a 2 part glue that is used to build fiberglass bows and remains flexible and is the strongest glue I am aware of for bonding synthetics and naturals.

As I said before I happy to share what little I know and thank you again sincerely for the kind words.


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## shane Wink (Aug 30, 2014)

Byudzai said:


> Wait so what are the materials? Two pieces of laminated G10 and one piece of orange G10?


Yes and dyed glue.


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## Susi (Mar 3, 2013)

You could sell these to a hypnotist! I'm hypnotized looking at such a neat SS. Your innovation is excellent needless to say. I agree with the band set recommended by quarterinmynose, good starting points. The TBG recommendation is a pretty popular choice, not too stiff for target accuracy yet not wimpy either. Most of us have several band sets ready to attach, one for each usage. When you attach, go to my gallery and look at "Chuck's Croissant" and the HDPE project's slingshot. He uses simple slots to anchor the bands without tieing anything and it's fast and easy to change band sets without untieing and retieing or clipping. If you like simplicity slots are kewl. If you use different thicknesses of bands slots still work for them. If a band is too thin to catch well in the slots use a small piece of round stock (nylon monofiliment weed whacker line, copper wire etc.) to put in the band loop so it won't pass through the slot, otherwise just doubling the bands and stretch/fit to the slot is fine. Chuck uses a hack saw blade to cut the slots and sands inside of course, it's just the right width. Round off the corners so they don't abrade the bands and use the extra nubbin of the band that sticks out as a cushion on the draw side of the slot to protect the band using itself as a protectant cushion as pictured in my gallery. You can make several band/pouch setups and change them out fast 'n easy to test them this way, it's a lot easier and faster than tieing to the forks or even clips. G10 is strong enough to cut slots without compromising strength at the attachment points.

Don't get me wrong, as far as a mechanical fastener, Bill Hays' clips are in my humble opinion supurb but you don't have to go through the mechanical process to simply anchor a band and simply remove it. The bands stay flat in the slots just as with clips. As to wider bands, I use double bands rather than one wide one, and the double bands add up to one thick band as far as pull goes. If you use the recommended 1 inch to 3/4 inch taper you'll need clips and slots big enough to accomodate the 1 inch width, don't forget that...or you will have to scrunch and fold the bands to get them into clips unless Bill sends you clips that will accomodate 1 inch wide bands. That's pretty wide. You can fold the bands like I said in both slots and clips. Again, I like Bill's clips better than any other mechanical attachment but I've not used them..plenty of shooters have and they come highly recommended.

If you want to experiment wityh tubes, try them, plenty folks prefer tubes to flats, I prefer flats and have tried both...but afterall, to each his own here, there are no rules. For band changes with tubes the fastest method in my humble opinion is to use bevelled holes and a BB or small ball bearing in the tube to anchor it so it won't pull through the hole upon draw. Carry a nail with the point ground off to tamp the BB into the tube end with a little spit to lube it. Yes we primative natives use body fluids for our SSs! LOL. Changing the tubes is faster that way than tieing. I've seen clips used on tubes also, a fast/easy way to change elastic. Slots work for tubes also. The anchoring system depends on if you want - OTT or TTF. Tieing might be best in the experimental stage before you cut or drill your fork ends until you decide on what band, tube or flat, OTT or TTF for the holes and slots would be determined by that. Just thoughts to ponder and for the rest to critique for a rounded out commentary.

If it were mine, this gorgeous SS you made, I'd tie bands for experiments until I decide on what type of band type and attachment method I want. Say, if you drill for tubes then decide on flats and decide on slots or clips, you're stuck with that mod like it or not and you've done such good work and it took hours, you don't want to be stuck with anything.

Expanding titanium tubing my hubby Chuck says might end in splits since titanium isn't too malleable and formable. You might try this on a piece before you install it in your frame. It's better to machine the flare by touching it with an oversised drill bit or chamfering bit on the tube ends he says than try to expand the tubing. It's brittle yet hard as steel and might very well split instead of flare. Actually he recommends copper or brass tubing since it's so formable. But with G10 you can bevel the hole with an over sized drill bit or chamfer bit, a light touch in a drill press or hand do it lightly and forget a metallic insert. You might consider Bill Hays' thumb screw idea for the clips instead of allen screws for ease of use. Allens however offer a flatter profile less likely to hang up on stuff. A simple hole in the but of the handle to house the allen wrench with a very small magnet at the end of the hole to hold the allen wrench in place might be an idea if you use allen screws for Bill's clips. It wouldn't interrupt the design any, hidden really. More keyboard diarhea, LOL!

I attached an image of Chuck's slot method in a recent HDPE SS he just finished. The bands simply do not pull out yet he can stretch the part that's doubled and it slips right out for a band change. Another image, this one on a wood SS he recently finished, uses a slanted slot for an inside the fork mode instead of outside, so as to create less stress at the bend part of the attachment. If you want an outside fork attachment or otherwise slanted back toward you the shooter, angle the cut likewise. Chuck did a wide slot, filled it completely with epoxe, recut it so as to make an epoxe "guide" instead of rubber on wood to help preserve the band from abrasion. Maybe that's overkill. It turned out the red monofiliment line segment wasn't needed at all...the loop itself simply would not pass through the slot no matter how many shots were dispatched.

Click the images for larger ones. These are from my gallery.


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## shane Wink (Aug 30, 2014)

WOW SUSI! Thats is sweet ! Thanks for your time writing all the above and it wont go to waste! I would like your post twice if it could! I enjoy learning, discussing, sharing and building a lot!


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## shane Wink (Aug 30, 2014)

As for the ti it wont split as long as you flare it in the relation to its I.D. . I use a 1 ton press and dies to flare it now for mechanical attachment of handles and when building ultralight stubtang knives.


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## Arnisador78 (Apr 10, 2013)

Very hypnotizing


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## rockslinger (Nov 16, 2010)

Great looking shooter, nicely done!


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## toolmantf99 (Feb 16, 2012)

Wish my first one looked that awesome! Great job, you should be very proud of your creation!


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## Danny0663 (Mar 15, 2011)

Totally [email protected] man! really nice work.


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## J Stacy (Aug 7, 2014)

I made , ground to profile today , 14 today and I'm not going to show one of these here after that gem !! :bowdown:


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## shane Wink (Aug 30, 2014)

Thanks guys


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