# Hunting Competency Test



## Sam

Hey guys, before anyone goes hunting I recommend that they practice on these excellent targets first:
My link
My link
My link
My link

I would suggest that you attempt to take your quarry from no further than you can successfully hit all four targets in a row, and would recommend that you use metallic, spherical, projectiles with a mass of no less than 7 grams. With a minimum draw length of 28" and weight of 15lb... What do you guys think?









Here are some more from the same website, this time they imitate specific species:
Squirrel
Rabbit
Corvid

An extremely talented of mine is even working on similar targets, made from high-resolution photographs of real animals, with the area of vital organs highlighted in red for me, and I may distribute them, _pro bono_, as per request.


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## Martin

I do all my rabbit hunting at about 10 metres or less, with practise it is easy to accurately judge distance.

Unless you have the ability to get within range to humanely dispatch your target, you should not be hunting.

Great links Sam.

Martin


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## Sam

Got my first pigeon today, it was a small feral, used a 9.525mm ball bearing shot from a PS-2 with "Gold Winner" flatbands. I'd never witnessed the idiom: 'fell like a stone' before, I'm pretty sure it was dead before it hit the ground, it didn't so much as flinch. When I approached it, it wasn't breathing, or bleeding, so I put my hand to its chest - cardiac arrest! My ball bearing was entirely embedded under its skin; just above and slightly to the left of its right eye. There was barely any blood.


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## whipcrackdeadbunny

I know this website, I'll print some out and see what I think of the size. Good idea though.


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## Sam

Martin said:


> I do all my rabbit hunting at about 10 metres or less, with practise it is easy to accurately judge distance.
> 
> Unless you have the ability to get within range to humanely dispatch your target, you should not be hunting.
> 
> Great links Sam.
> 
> Martin


That's sensible, looking at the ballistic coefficients of most contemporary hunting rigs that's where velocity starts to taper off. 
What ammunition and band-sets are you using for your hunting mate?

I'm thinking of getting my hands on some 0.44" lead, from Perry, I want to see what 44.3% more density does!


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## Martin

I cast my own 12mm lead shot, its a little rough but it works, I will also be casting 8mm as well.
As for bandsets at the moment I'm trying silver theraband and experimenting with different tapers on my homemade slingshots.
Martin.


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## Sam

Martin said:


> I cast my own 12mm lead shot, its a little rough but it works, I will also be casting 8mm as well.
> As for bandsets at the moment I'm trying silver theraband and experimenting with different tapers on my homemade slingshots.
> Martin.


Awesome, I wish I could cast my own lead - my ignorant







father won't let me, on account of it being "Dangerous and bad for the environment."







Unfortunately 1.27mm steel doesn't always guarantee a clean kill, I'm just not convinced that it's dense enough, I'm going to purchase some 1.12mm lead from Perry, I can't wait to see what a 44.3% increment in density does to my steel and aluminium sheets!


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## bunnybuster

I`m partial to .375 lead balls for hunting rabbits


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## Dayhiker

I think rabbits are easy to kill. I have only killed one. It was a big one, too. I shot him in the head at under 10 yds with a stone that was less than a half inch in diameter. The elastic I was using at the time was Trumark RRT tubes. I was trying to just thump the bugger with marbles to get him out of my veggie garden (had done it several times before). I had just put these tubes on the slingshot the day before, and because I was listening to too much b.s. here on the forums about how powerful your bands had to be for hunting, I thought these tubes would never kill anything. Anyway, I broke the poor creatures foot with my last marble, and he just stood there licking it. It had to be dispatched quickly now for a wounded rabbit would end up easy prey for the dogs and whatnot in the area. So I picked up this small stone and let fly. As I said, it was a head shot. The bunny jumped straight into the air and came down dead -- instant kill. There are many people here who are way over powering their slingshots in my opinion. Shot in the foot (Jeff), here on the forum takes the most game of anybody I know of and he says single-layered tapered thera-band gold and 7/16th steel balls is enough to kill birds and bunnies. I am no hunter, but I think he is correct.

(Having said that, I have a mold for .45 caliber lead, and that is what I will use for hunting, because I'm not that good of a marksman yet, so it might take me a couple of shots to get a kill; and maybe an administering of last rights, as well







)

P.S. And I do own a fully powered Fish Hunter Ergo2 as well. But I don't feel it is necessary for a really good marksman. I do, however, think this kind of fire power is required to kill groundhogs and raccoons, which is what I started making slingshots for in the first place.


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## Sam

Dayhiker said:


> I think rabbits are easy to kill. I have only killed one. It was a big one, too. I shot him in the head at under 10 yds with a stone that was less than a half inch in diameter. The elastic I was using at the time was Trumark RRT tubes. I was trying to just thump the bugger with marbles to get him out of my veggie garden (had done it several times before). I had just put these tubes on the slingshot the day before, and because I was listening to too much b.s. here on the forums about how powerful your bands had to be for hunting, I thought these tubes would never kill anything. Anyway, I broke the poor creatures foot with my last marble, and he just stood there licking it. It had to be dispatched quickly now for a wounded rabbit would end up easy prey for the dogs and whatnot in the area. So I picked up this small stone and let fly. As I said, it was a head shot. The bunny jumped straight into the air and came down dead -- instant kill. There are many people here who are way over powering their slingshots in my opinion. Shot in the foot (Jeff), here on the forum takes the most game of anybody I know of and he says single-layered tapered thera-band gold and 7/16th steel balls is enough to kill birds and bunnies. I am no hunter, but I think he is correct.
> 
> (Having said that, I have a mold for .45 caliber lead, and that is what I will use for hunting, because I'm not that good of a marksman yet, so it might take me a couple of shots to get a kill; and maybe an administering of last rights, as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> P.S. And I do own a fully powered Fish Hunter Ergo2 as well. But I don't feel it is necessary for a really good marksman. I do, however, think this kind of fire power is required to kill groundhogs and raccoons, which is what I started making slingshots for in the first place.


Wow...


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## bunnybuster

My favorite setup for bunnies...
1/2 inch x 1/16 , pure gum rubber flatbands.
Using a .375 lead ball, it will put down any bunny on the planet, at 25 yds. or less.
I have taken them out to 28 yds....with clean kills.
You can have the most powerful bands, or tubes in the world...but if you cannot control, and hit your quarry`s vitals..... stick with shooting cans and jellotin bricks.
Hunting game with any weapon , must be taken seriously. It is not a ``sport`` like football or baseball.
You owe it to the animal , to make clean shots, and know your ability...or don`t take the shot.
The real skill in hunting...is to get as close as you can, without detection from your quarry. One on one....
Know your limits, before you decide to hunt game.


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## Flatband

Boy, no one I've seen has said it better the Tom just did. Well said Bud! Flatband


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## A+ Slingshots

Dayhiker , Bunnybuster, and Flatband. Well said guys!!!!


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## Sam

bunnybuster said:


> My favorite setup for bunnies...
> 1/2 inch x 1/16 , pure gum rubber flatbands.
> Using a .375 lead ball, it will put down any bunny on the planet, at 25 yds. or less.
> I have taken them out to 28 yds....with clean kills.
> You can have the most powerful bands, or tubes in the world...but if you cannot control, and hit your quarry`s vitals..... stick with shooting cans and jellotin bricks.
> Hunting game with any weapon , must be taken seriously. It is not a ``sport`` like football or baseball.
> You owe it to the animal , to make clean shots, and know your ability...or don`t take the shot.
> The real skill in hunting...is to get as close as you can, without detection from your quarry. One on one....
> Know your limits, before you decide to hunt game.










Took the words right out my mouth there buddy,







Glass has a density of 2.5 g/cm[sup]3[/sup], Steel 7.86[sup] [/sup]g/cm[sup]3[/sup], Lead 11.34 g/cm[sup]3[/sup], even with steel you will only achieve clean kills with clean head-shots...


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## NoSugarRob

[.


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## Dayhiker

*
Bunny Buster:*


> My favorite setup for bunnies...
> 1/2 inch x 1/16 , pure gum rubber flatbands.
> Using a .375 lead ball, it will put down any bunny on the planet, at 25 yds. or less.
> I have taken them out to 28 yds....with clean kills.
> You can have the most powerful bands, or tubes in the world...but if you cannot control, and hit your quarry`s vitals..... stick with shooting cans and jellotin bricks.
> Hunting game with any weapon , must be taken seriously. It is not a ``sport`` like football or baseball.
> You owe it to the animal , to make clean shots, and know your ability...or don`t take the shot.
> The real skill in hunting...is to get as close as you can, without detection from your quarry. One on one....
> Know your limits, before you decide to hunt game.


I know my limits, and that's why I know I'll need to pack a little extra hitting force. (for now)


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## Sam

Dayhiker said:


> *
> Bunny Buster:*
> 
> 
> 
> My favorite setup for bunnies...
> 1/2 inch x 1/16 , pure gum rubber flatbands.
> Using a .375 lead ball, it will put down any bunny on the planet, at 25 yds. or less.
> I have taken them out to 28 yds....with clean kills.
> You can have the most powerful bands, or tubes in the world...but if you cannot control, and hit your quarry`s vitals..... stick with shooting cans and jellotin bricks.
> Hunting game with any weapon , must be taken seriously. It is not a ``sport`` like football or baseball.
> You owe it to the animal , to make clean shots, and know your ability...or don`t take the shot.
> The real skill in hunting...is to get as close as you can, without detection from your quarry. One on one....
> Know your limits, before you decide to hunt game.
> 
> 
> 
> I know my limits, and that's why I know I'll need to pack a little extra hitting force. (for now)
Click to expand...

Thank you mate,


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## Henry the Hermit

I guess this sorta kinda falls into the hunting category. I was in the back yard just about sunset, shooting at a tin can with glass marbles. I heard a gnawing sound coming from the direction of one of our coconut palms. I took a look and sure enough, I saw a fluffy tail twitching where a squirrel was chewing the green husk off a coconut to get at the water and soft inside. Very carefully, I drew about half-way and aimed a few feet above the squirrel, which made him stop trying to open the coconut. It took one more shot to get him to leave the area.

I should explain that two years ago we rescued a baby squirrel that fell out of a tree during a storm. After bottle feeding and hand raising one of these pests, there just ain't no way I could shoot one, and if I did, my wife would kick me out. I guess I'll have to wait until a snake or cane toad shows up to test my hunting skills.


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## Sam

Henry in Panama said:


> I guess this sorta kinda falls into the hunting category. I was in the back yard just about sunset, shooting at a tin can with glass marbles. I heard a gnawing sound coming from the direction of one of our coconut palms. I took a look and sure enough, I saw a fluffy tail twitching where a squirrel was chewing the green husk off a coconut to get at the water and soft inside. Very carefully, I drew about half-way and aimed a few feet above the squirrel, which made him stop trying to open the coconut. It took one more shot to get him to leave the area.
> 
> I should explain that two years ago we rescued a baby squirrel that fell out of a tree during a storm. After bottle feeding and hand raising one of these pests, there just ain't no way I could shoot one, and if I did, my wife would kick me out. I guess I'll have to wait until a snake or cane toad shows up to test my hunting skills.


My policy on squirrels is: *If it ain't red shoot it dead! *


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## Nico

Dayhiker said:


> I think rabbits are easy to kill. I have only killed one. It was a big one, too. I shot him in the head at under 10 yds with a stone that was less than a half inch in diameter. The elastic I was using at the time was Trumark RRT tubes. I was trying to just thump the bugger with marbles to get him out of my veggie garden (had done it several times before). I had just put these tubes on the slingshot the day before, and because I was listening to too much b.s. here on the forums about how powerful your bands had to be for hunting, I thought these tubes would never kill anything. Anyway, I broke the poor creatures foot with my last marble, and he just stood there licking it. It had to be dispatched quickly now for a wounded rabbit would end up easy prey for the dogs and whatnot in the area. So I picked up this small stone and let fly. As I said, it was a head shot. The bunny jumped straight into the air and came down dead -- instant kill. There are many people here who are way over powering their slingshots in my opinion. Shot in the foot (Jeff), here on the forum takes the most game of anybody I know of and he says single-layered tapered thera-band gold and 7/16th steel balls is enough to kill birds and bunnies. I am no hunter, but I think he is correct.
> 
> (Having said that, I have a mold for .45 caliber lead, and that is what I will use for hunting, because I'm not that good of a marksman yet, so it might take me a couple of shots to get a kill; and maybe an administering of last rights, as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> P.S. And I do own a fully powered Fish Hunter Ergo2 as well. But I don't feel it is necessary for a really good marksman. I do, however, think this kind of fire power is required to kill groundhogs and raccoons, which is what I started making slingshots for in the first place.


Well spoken DH there is far too much b/s on the various forums about what is powerful and what isnt.
My father for years after being in the USA switched to tubes from the round solid elastics he used in his teens in Mexico and I saw him kill many animals with the surgical tubes he would acquire from the family DR. Other times he'd use the regular marksman replacement tubes on his homemades and even would remove the small pouch and replace with a stone shooting pouch. Rabbits, squirrels, doves pigeons you name it he took it with stones using surgical tubes from either of the forementioned sources.

The majority of all my prey I have killed with my chains have been with stones, minus 3 crows which I took with 44 cal lead balls I bought from fish. I really have been curious about .457 (45) cal lead balls just a little more weight than 44 and light enough for those long shots.

I wish I were close by to you DH I'd help you with the raccoon and ground hog problems


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## Nico

bunnybuster said:


> You can have the most powerful bands, or tubes in the world...but if you cannot control, and hit your quarry`s vitals..... stick with shooting cans and jellotin bricks.
> Hunting game with any weapon , must be taken seriously. It is not a ``sport`` like football or baseball.
> You owe it to the animal , to make clean shots, and know your ability...or don`t take the shot.
> The real skill in hunting...is to get as close as you can, without detection from your quarry. One on one....
> Know your limits, before you decide to hunt game.


Well spoken BB.. I think that these words should be printed and posted on the wall of any budding hunters out there. Think about these words before you start talking numbers and weights or spouting theories about velocity or types of bands you think are better, as they are true words of wisdom from an experienced man..


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## Dayhiker

[quote/]


Nico said:


> I wish I were close by to you DH I'd help you with the raccoon and ground hog problems


 [/quote]

Nick, I have been having problems for years with groundhogs eating my veggies and racoons causing damage. This year, I decided that maybe a powerful slingshot might be the answer.
. . . Strangely enough, though, we haven't seen hide nor hair of either one all season??? So now here I am with a serious slingshot jones and nothing to shoot at but tin cans.


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## ZDP-189

The groundhogs tapped into you wifi and are lurking on SSF.


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## Dayhiker

ZDP-189 said:


> The groundhogs tapped into you wifi and are lurking on SSF.












Dan, it is really weird. I actually had that thought too. Been living here 40 years and this is the first year without these critters -- and skunks, too: not a one this year. Are they all _that _afraid of slingshots? Or _are _they tapped in here?


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## Sam

Dayhiker said:


> The groundhogs tapped into you wifi and are lurking on SSF.












Dan, it is really weird. I actually had that thought too. Been living here 40 years and this is the first year without these critters -- and skunks, too: not a one this year. Are they all _that _afraid of slingshots? Or _are _they tapped in here?








[/quote]
I'm 100% sure that pests can develop a fear of slingshots through operant conditioning, they've probably seen you in you yard shooting at cans and put 2 & 2 together! I used to have a big problem with feral pigeons in my garden, I killed one a few weeks ago and haven't seen one in my garden - or even the surrounding gardens - since!


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## philly

My new target is a golf ball on a string at 10 meters, size of a squerrel's head. Not hitting it all the time but helps to visualize the true kill zone. We owe it to the game to shoot within our limits and with proper ammo. LEAD.
Philly


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## Dayhiker

Way I figure it, the little freaks have eaten so many hundreds of my nice McIntosh apples I owe them nothin'!!


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## Sam

Dayhiker said:


> Way I figure it, the little freaks have eaten so many hundreds of my nice McIntosh apples I owe them nothin'!!


It's in their nature, the squirrel who eats my strawberries frustrates me; but I'm still going to kill him humanely.









.... Just you wait you audacious little b******!


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## NoSugarRob

.


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## Hedgewolf

Sam said:


> My policy on squirrels is: *If it ain't red shoot it dead! *


Sam - do you get many red squirrels round your way ? Never seen one here, except in the zoo...


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## Sam

Hedgewolf said:


> My policy on squirrels is: *If it ain't red shoot it dead! *


Sam - do you get many red squirrels round your way ? Never seen one here, except in the zoo...
[/quote]
I've never seen a wild one in the UK - which is exactly why I shoot the grey ones!


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## philly

We have a ton of them in upstate NY, I have 5 acres there where I do most of my squirrel hunting and the reds are plentiful. Fast as can be and never seem to sit still unless they spot you and then they get high and scald you incessantly. Cool little critters. Also have flying squirrel, small and mostly nocturnal but I see them every now and again.
Philly


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## Jaybird

The reds will drive the grays away.We kill them on sight.


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## ZDP-189

Jaybird said:


> The reds will drive the grays away.We kill them on sight.


Other way round...

(PS/ to avoid ambiguity, I meant reds vs greys, not them shooting you.)


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## Sam

ZDP-189 said:


> The reds will drive the grays away.We kill them on sight.


Other way round...

(PS/ to avoid ambiguity, I meant reds vs greys, not them shooting you.)
[/quote]
LOL, how could one possibly infer that, squirrel terrorists?


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## ZDP-189

Terrorism has been redefined to mean anyone not appreciated by the government. Hence narco-terrorists and free speech has been outlawed in some parts under the guise of incitement to terrorism and soon we will have thought-terorists. But this thread is about whacking small fluffy things with big balls.


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## ZDP-189

Not that I am particularly familiar with a groundhog's balls.


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## whipcrackdeadbunny

For a small fat bear, you are f#@+!£% funny!


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## whipcrackdeadbunny

philly said:


> My new target is a golf ball on a string at 10 meters, size of a squerrel's head. Not hitting it all the time but helps to visualize the true kill zone. We owe it to the game to shoot within our limits and with proper ammo. LEAD.
> Philly


I like this idea, aim small to hit big; if you shot in the middle of the squizzer, you're bound to hit him, and if you get really good, you can claim all the meat.


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## Sam

ZDP-189 said:


> Not that I am particularly familiar with a groundhog's balls.


And L-O-L!


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## philly

whipcrackdeadbunny said:


> My new target is a golf ball on a string at 10 meters, size of a squerrel's head. Not hitting it all the time but helps to visualize the true kill zone. We owe it to the game to shoot within our limits and with proper ammo. LEAD.
> Philly


I like this idea, aim small to hit big; if you shot in the middle of the squizzer, you're bound to hit him, and if you get really good, you can claim all the meat.
[/quote]

You would be surprised at how much it improves your visualization. I hit it about 8 times on average out of 25 but the rest of my shots are real tightly grouped.
Problem I have is that the golf ball is so dense that you never know where your shot is going to end up after the hit. I have had them come right back at me. The idea is good, perhaps the target needs to be a little softer.
Philly


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## philly

BTW, received my .375" swaged lead balls by Hornady yesterday, shoot great. Waiting for my next chance to get upstate to my property to shoot some more bushy tails.
Philly


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## Sam

philly said:


> BTW, received my .375" swaged lead balls by Hornady yesterday, shoot great. Waiting for my next chance to get upstate to my property to shoot some more bushy tails.
> Philly


I cannot wait to see some pics!


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## Chugosh

Perhaps a table tennis ball would be a less dangerous target that a golf ball.

Unless you like the bounce-back effect to simulate the return fire of the armed red squirrels.

Personally, I have no business hunting anything, yet. Can't get a 3/8" ball on a coke can at twenty feet.


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## josephlys

are rabbits harder to kill or pigeons. I mean which is the toughest. ;


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## Sam

josephlys said:


> are rabbits harder to kill or pigeons. I mean which is the toughest. ;


I believe rabbits are tougher although I could well be wrong.


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## whipcrackdeadbunny

josephlys said:


> are rabbits harder to kill or pigeons. I mean which is the toughest. ;


Squirrel skin is much tougher; the American Indians (I forget which tribes) used to tear the Rabbit skin into strips, and use it to make cordage, it dries tightly and is very strong, like tendons.


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## philly

Rabbits are very thin skinned, you can tear thier skim with yoir fingers Squerrels are tough. Much harder to kill. Need head shots with lead to anchor them.


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## josephlys

So I have not tried killing pigeons with a slingshot before. So now I currently have a light slingshot around 10lbs drawweight, and use 7grams leadshots= Is this setup good enough to hunt with. Will I get consistent kills with it. My draw length is around 27'' btw. 
Just let me know what you guys think, help me out here thanks.


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## whipcrackdeadbunny

josephlys said:


> So I have not tried killing pigeons with a slingshot before. So now I currently have a light slingshot around 10lbs drawweight, and use 7grams leadshots= Is this setup good enough to hunt with. Will I get consistent kills with it. My draw length is around 27'' btw.
> Just let me know what you guys think, help me out here thanks.


Anything that leaves a nasty dent, or hole in a can should be good enough; but keep to your distances.


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## philly

Go for it, sounds fine for pigeons.


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## Sam

josephlys said:


> So I have not tried killing pigeons with a slingshot before. So now I currently have a light slingshot around 10lbs drawweight, and use 7grams leadshots= Is this setup good enough to hunt with. Will I get consistent kills with it. My draw length is around 27'' btw.
> Just let me know what you guys think, help me out here thanks.


Definitely not with such a low draw weight and length, you simply won't impart enough energy to your projectile. I would personally recommend using a band-set with a 16lb draw weight and a 30" or longer draw length for your chosen projectile.









*PS: I think Tex's Express Bands would be perfect for you! *


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## josephlys

Okay I'll see to it that my slingshot is juiced up. 16lbs you say, Bands seem to wear out pretty fast - a couple hundred shot and its draw becomes weak. How often do you change your band set?


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## Chuff

philly said:


> My new target is a golf ball on a string at 10 meters, size of a squerrel's head. Not hitting it all the time but helps to visualize the true kill zone. We owe it to the game to shoot within our limits and with proper ammo. LEAD.
> Philly


I like this idea, aim small to hit big; if you shot in the middle of the squizzer, you're bound to hit him, and if you get really good, you can claim all the meat.
[/quote]

You would be surprised at how much it improves your visualization. I hit it about 8 times on average out of 25 but the rest of my shots are real tightly grouped.
Problem I have is that the golf ball is so dense that you never know where your shot is going to end up after the hit. I have had them come right back at me. The idea is good, perhaps the target needs to be a little softer.
Philly
[/quote]

I think a squash ball would be a good alternative. A ping pong (table tennis!) ball would not last long.


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## Darb

philly said:


> My new target is a golf ball on a string at 10 meters, size of a squerrel's head. Not hitting it all the time but helps to visualize the true kill zone. We owe it to the game to shoot within our limits and with proper ammo. LEAD.
> Philly


I like this idea, aim small to hit big; if you shot in the middle of the squizzer, you're bound to hit him, and if you get really good, you can claim all the meat.
[/quote]

You would be surprised at how much it improves your visualization. I hit it about 8 times on average out of 25 but the rest of my shots are real tightly grouped.
Problem I have is that the golf ball is so dense that you never know where your shot is going to end up after the hit. I have had them come right back at me. The idea is good, perhaps the target needs to be a little softer.
Philly
[/quote]

Try the walnuts I mentioned in the daily scores thread. They're not only safer (no ricochets) but taste good too.


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## Darb

Sam said:


> Glass has a density of 2.5 g/cm[sup]3[/sup], Steel 7.86[sup] [/sup]g/cm[sup]3[/sup], Lead 11.34 g/cm[sup]3[/sup], even with steel you will only achieve clean kills with clean head-shots...


If you look over in this thread in Dan's blog, I posted some data on Tungsten-Carbide ballast pellets (the same stuff the military uses in fragmentation grenades), which have a density in the vicinity of 17-18[sup] [/sup]g/cm[sup]3[/sup], which is 50% more than lead, 118% more than steel, and just below gold. Dan and Aaron raised this idea months ago, and I only just ran across it today.

The trick will be trying to find it at a decent price ... but having a backstop that allows reuse will make a stiff price a lot more bearable, especially if the carbide alloy is magnetic (re: includes 10-15% cobalt).

EDIT: whoops, forgot the blog link ... hang on ...

http://slingshotforu...rojectile-size/


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## bushwacker

Sam said:


> So I have not tried killing pigeons with a slingshot before. So now I currently have a light slingshot around 10lbs drawweight, and use 7grams leadshots= Is this setup good enough to hunt with. Will I get consistent kills with it. My draw length is around 27'' btw.
> Just let me know what you guys think, help me out here thanks.


Definitely not with such a low draw weight and length, you simply won't impart enough energy to your projectile. I would personally recommend using a band-set with a 16lb draw weight and a 30" or longer draw length for your chosen projectile.









*PS: I think Tex's Express Bands would be perfect for you! *








[/quote]

my gypsy sling as only got a 10lb draw wight and thats got enuff power to put a 8 gram lead ball straight through a pigeon head so i think his set will work


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## Brooklyn00003

My thera band gold setup is only 8 pounds at 71 cm draw 9.5mm steal.I shot sparrows at 10-15 meters no problem. As we know its not about the draw weight but,

with flatbands that is not thicker then 1 mm might not be far from each other in power.


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## Brooklyn00003

Wrong post sorry


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## jmplsnt

Yeah I've seen Bushwhacker's kill shot and please allow me to state there is no doubt the pigeon in question was dead before it hit the ground.

I'm currently in the process of adjusting the draw weight of my bands down a notch or even two as I think it's costing me some precision/accuracy and as an Indian elder stated "Accuracy is its own form of power".


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## philly

Jmp, I belive you are using chains with the 5x3 you use, what draw weight do you estimate at 28" draw? I want to try them on the first natural I made. I am using Tex Express now and would like a similar weight, around 16#.


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## Slingshots rule

Sam said:


> I cast my own 12mm lead shot, its a little rough but it works, I will also be casting 8mm as well.
> As for bandsets at the moment I'm trying silver theraband and experimenting with different tapers on my homemade slingshots.
> Martin.


Awesome, I wish I could cast my own lead - my ignorant







father won't let me, on account of it being "Dangerous and bad for the environment."







Unfortunately 1.27mm steel doesn't always guarantee a clean kill, I'm just not convinced that it's dense enough, I'm going to purchase some 1.12mm lead from Perry, I can't wait to see what a 44.3% increment in density does to my steel and aluminium sheets!








[/quote]
same with me my dad wont let me do it


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