# Tube Attached Through Hole In Natural Fork Question



## Natty Fork (Jul 18, 2012)

I created this artistic masterpiece







to illustrate a question I have about attaching tubes to a natural fork buy drilling a hole through the fork at various angles and various options of which way the tube goes back around the forks.









This is looking down at the top of forks. The single black dot is one end of the hole where you might do a bb in the tube to keep it from sliding into the hole. The other side of the forks are the tubes attached to pouches.

Not including wear and tear on the tubes from some of the methods wrapping more around the forks, I'm wondering if any of these methods are 'more accurate'? which might be more likely to cause or prevent fork hits? is flipping the slingshot necessary with tubes? or does that depend on setup?


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## capnjoe (Jun 3, 2012)

You don't need to flip it. Not even with tubes or a PF. It's just a fun and different way to do things. Fork hits are caused by one thing. Poor release. If your forks are square to the target and your pouch hand and ball is in alignment with the center of the throat you should never suffer a fork hit. At least that's what I tell myself.

As far as the very artistic diagram, I'd choose c as the most accurate. The pouch looks to open perfectly, but the width between the forks would need to be just right.


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## M.J (Nov 1, 2010)

I like your drawings!
No style is any more accurate than any other, it's just what you like best and what works best for you. Try them all!








What kind of tubes are you planning to use?


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## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

M_J said:


> I like your drawings!
> No style is any more accurate than any other, it's just what you like best and what works best for you. Try them all!
> 
> 
> ...


I agree with every word. I shoot many ways with many set-ups (some more preficient than others







) it just takes a little practice to figure out the best fork position to anchor combination for that particular set up (if you use the fork as an aiming reference that is).

I would say however that "F", "G" , and "D" would force you to ensure that you have the proper length cut when making a tube set. If you cut it too long you will have to trim it to ensure that the end of the tubes arent hindering you ammo's travel. The others will allow you to be a bit flexible on your tube lengths, giving you room to adjust your set-up.

I say this because I have slingshots that would require me to have different lenght tubes to get the get the same draw that I want to acheive. (tubes that go around the fork would require to be longer than ones that don't). To prevent me from having to pre make tube-sets of various lengths, I make them all the longest length I require, and adjust it when attaching. This way if I want I can pull that tube set off and use it on another.

LGD


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## Tex-Shooter (Dec 17, 2009)

Styles A and E will put more energy into your wrist and elbow and could be a cause for carpal syndrome over time. -- Tex


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## Wingshooter (Dec 24, 2009)

I use D. I think it allows the tubes to retract with out stacking. I have seen a lot of videos where the tubes run into themselfs on release.When attached in line. IMO and everybody has one.


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## capnjoe (Jun 3, 2012)

Wingshooter said:


> I use D. I think it allows the tubes to retract with out stacking. I have seen a lot of videos where the tubes run into themselfs on release.When attached in line. IMO and everybody has one.


Where'd you see video of bands? And don't say Mtv!!!
I'd sure like to see those if you can remember where you saw them. I've only seen one and I think it was Bill Hays' vid.


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

In your styles B, C, F, and H, the bands run through the forks. In these arrangements, the forks need to be pretty wide to avoid the bands fouling the pouch and/or the projectile. There is a lot of stuff trying to get between the forks at roughly the same time. Styles A and D are probably least prone to hand slaps because the bands tend to pile up against the forks, losing a lot of their residual energy there, rather than swinging through at full force and rebounding onto your hand.

I agree that no one attachment method is inherently more accurate than another, with the proviso indicated above that some styles require wider forks. Experimentation is the key. Find what works best for you.

Cheers ..... Charles


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## Natty Fork (Jul 18, 2012)

Thanks for the answers everyone.

I was also wondering about power. All things 'equal' except the tube placement, are any of the setups more/less powerful? Is setup G losing power because it silghtly wraps around the forks? or would the power difference between the setups be so minimal that it wouldn't matter?


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

Natty Fork said:


> Thanks for the answers everyone.
> 
> I was also wondering about power. All things 'equal' except the tube placement, are any of the setups more/less powerful? Is setup G losing power because it silghtly wraps around the forks? or would the power difference between the setups be so minimal that it wouldn't matter?


The thing that seems to matter most with respect to getting higher velocities is draw length. The greater the difference between the slack length of your bands and your draw length, all other things being equal, the higher your velocity. I suspect that 1/4 or even 1/2 inch will not be noticeable.

Cheers ..... Charles


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## tradspirit (Jul 23, 2012)

Very helpful discussion and picures. Thanks all!


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

M_J said:


> I like your drawings!
> No style is any more accurate than any other, it's just what you like best and what works best for you. Try them all!
> 
> 
> ...


very well said


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## Smashtoad (Sep 3, 2010)

I'm gonna be doing this soon with some slings I have put alot of elbow grease into, so if I am gonna be drilling holes in the forks, I gotta get it right the first time...

One will be small and have narrow forks, and the other is going to be much wider between the forks, so my hole angles may be different I suppose.


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