# Aiming Question



## truthornothing (May 18, 2015)

I started shooting with a Small HTS and with this shooter at 10 meters, My top fork( I shoot Gangsta) is my aiming point. Its the same with my current favorite the Scout. I was injured and am restricted to what weight my arm can draw. Currently that is about 2lbs which is bb band territory. I ordered a Dead ringer from Nathan at simple shot since it is a dedicated BB shooter but man what a difference in where my aiming point is in reference to my top fork. I have to aim about 6 low, give or take

Because of that I've hooked BB bands to my Scout(and every other frame I own) and I am still dead on with BB's using my top fork to aim. My question is, is there a rule of thumb for aiming adjustment reference fork width and any tipd on compensating? I love the Dead Ringer and currently banded up my Axiom Champ. But the adjustment is difficult for me. I can smack cans well enough, but zeroing in on my focus targets has been difficult. Any thoughts / help will be appreciated.


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## truthornothing (May 18, 2015)

Nobody?


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## treefork (Feb 1, 2010)

Raise your head/dominant eye up a bit more than you do with the Scout . Now you will need to raise the slingshot hand up to line up the fork with target . This will raise the point of impact for the BB shooter . As you get more experience your brain will automatically make adjustments .


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## truthornothing (May 18, 2015)

Thanks Treefork, I will give it a try. As I said i can make the big adjustment but when i try to zero it in for my 1" target I am either high or low by a smidge. Fine tuning to the hardest.


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## Northerner (Nov 9, 2010)

Try using a variable anchor point aiming system. Sounds good, eh? I have been using this system for a few years now and it works great. I hold gangsta style, aiming with my top fork, and varying the anchor positions on my ear. My thumb knuckle is what I use to anchor. For short distances I will anchor at the top of the triangular ear flap. For medium distances I anchor right on the flap. For long distance I will anchor on my earlobe. For very long distance I anchor at the bottom of the lobe. You need to experiment to figure out your anchor points for each distance. You will quickly get the feel for each position on the ear.


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## truthornothing (May 18, 2015)

Northerner said:


> Try using a variable anchor point aiming system. Sounds good, eh? I have been using this system for a few years now and it works great. I hold gangsta style, aiming with my top fork, and varying the anchor positions on my ear. My thumb knuckle is what I use to anchor. For short distances I will anchor at the top of the triangular ear flap. For medium distances I anchor right on the flap. For long distance I will anchor on my earlobe. For very long distance I anchor at the bottom of the lobe. You need to experiment to figure out your anchor points for each distance. You will quickly get the feel for each position on the ear.


Thank you I currently anchor at the corner of my mouth. I will give it a try next band change, I may have to increase band length to accommodate. How do your hold the pouch ?


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## Northerner (Nov 9, 2010)

I twist the pouch 90* so the thumb knuckle is pointing towards my ear. You will gain a couple inches of draw length and also some speed when moving from the mouth anchor to the ear. I find that it feels more natural to look down the bands when they are higher up on my face.


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## truthornothing (May 18, 2015)

Cool, that is how I hold so at least I won't have to adjust that


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## Urban Fisher (Aug 13, 2014)

Man Northerner....you have a pretty ear!


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## Samurai Samoht (Apr 6, 2013)

Sorry to hear about your injury! I agree with what has been said already. Your fork width will determine the height of your anchor point when using a reference point on the fork. My bb shooter requires that my bands be drawn so that they graze just below my eye, whereas my wider RH slingshot requires that the bands be drawn so that they graze just below my cheekbone. Essentially the higher you have to raise your slingshot the higher you have to raise your anchor point.

Cheers,

Tom


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## PorkyRay (Nov 9, 2015)

I'm glad to see this topic being discussed as I, too, am experiencing the same issue with the Dead Ringer. I will give the suggestions provided here a try, thanks!


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## truthornothing (May 18, 2015)

SamuraiSamoht said:


> Sorry to hear about your injury! I agree with what has been said already. Your fork width will determine the height of your anchor point when using a reference point on the fork. My bb shooter requires that my bands be drawn so that they graze just below my eye, whereas my wider RH slingshot requires that the bands be drawn so that they graze just below my cheekbone. Essentially the higher you have to raise your slingshot the higher you have to raise your anchor point.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Tom





PorkyRay said:


> I'm glad to see this topic being discussed as I, too, am experiencing the same issue with the Dead Ringer. I will give the suggestions provided here a try, thanks!


Thanks Tom, I will give it all a whirl and see how it goes. Porky Ray, glad its not just me.


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## lunasling (Apr 5, 2015)

I have issues with aiming as well your not alone


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## JediMike (Jan 1, 2015)

Are you letting your cheek touch the band on each frame? Does a lot to account for differences in frame and angle to tarhet.


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## Northerner (Nov 9, 2010)

Hi truthornothing,

Last night I rigged a 3" wide BB shooter with single 1632 tubes. With a high ear anchor I was hitting center or close to it from 10 yards. Very mild draw weight too.

A few years ago I changed to the *variable anchor point aiming system* and had to go with narrow frames to make it work for me. With my 4 1/2" wide frames I had to use my earlobe at 10 metres when shooting 3/8" steel at 190-195fps. I started making my frames with 3" to 3 1/4" widths and the various parts of my ear became anchor points for various distances. Distances could be increased while still maintaining a solid anchor. My favourite DanKung frames are also narrow and shoot with the same ear anchor points. When I'm considering purchasing a new frame I always find out the outside fork width to make sure it fits my aiming style. I can still shoot other frame widths but I prefer the narrow frames so I an use the same reference points.


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## PorkyRay (Nov 9, 2015)

I have found the answers to some of the aiming issues I was having; now I just need to work on how to implement them. Although I am right-handed, it felt more comfortable and natural to hold the frame in my right hand, pulling the bands with my left. However, that causes me to naturally use my left eye for aiming, but I am right eye dominant. Once I switched hands and started using my right eye for aiming, I was able to shoot much, much better. :target:


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## truthornothing (May 18, 2015)

I applied the techniques of adjusting my anchor and problem solved. My thumb resting directly under my cheek bone is dead on with the dead ringer, now even more fun to shoot


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

truthornothing, I have suffered many of the same maladies as yourself and I suspect most are simply growing pains along the path of becoming better shooters. With my Scout - using the fork as my aiming point side shooting I have to aim about a tube thickness under the bottom of a can at ten meters for a good solid central hit. When I use a small HTS the frame is over top of the aiming point so I have to drop my anchor point on my face if I sight to the top of the fork as normal......very similarly to what Northerner was describing with his ear anchor points. With the Tyton frame I can hold bang on with the fork and anchor at my preferred anchor point which is with the knuckle of my thumb pointed straight into the "V" of my jaw joint.....which is what I also used in finger shooting with archery hence my comfort zone and why I like the Tyton frame so much.

Because I use my thumb knuckle into my jaw joint I too have to give a 90 degree counter clockwise twist to the pouch as Northerner also described. I really dislike having to move my anchor point when ever I change frames so I was looking for a frame where I could use my old archery anchor point and hold dead on using the upper fork. The Tyton allowed me to do this. But I have never anchored at my ear like Northerner does. I can see some advantages in doing so as you have defined points on the ear which you could repeatedly hold to for very good repeatability. When we get settled in our new house and I get a range set up I will definitely be checking this system out as it mentally holds great promise for me.


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## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

In the beginning a few months back, I considered buying a Dead Ringer from SimpleShot. I didn't do it and have thought about it since. After reading this post, I am certainly glad I didn't order one. I have a hard enough time aiming and hitting and sure don't need to add the complication of shooting a slingshot designed to miss.


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## Grandpa Grumpy (Apr 21, 2013)

Jolly Roger said:


> In the beginning a few months back, I considered buying a Dead Ringer from SimpleShot. I didn't do it and have thought about it since. After reading this post, I am certainly glad I didn't order one. I have a hard enough time aiming and hitting and sure don't need to add the complication of shooting a slingshot designed to miss.


Once again you have resurrected a post that is almost two years old to take dig at Simple Shot. What have you got against them? Do you own any of there products? The Dead Ringer was not designed to miss - it is designed to shoot .117 ammo. Any time you change fork width you are going to have make some adjustment, whether it be anchor point,ammo size or band speed or as tree fork said head position.

I have shot against truth or nothing in a couple of tournaments and let me assure he has figured it out.


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## KawKan (May 11, 2013)

@Jolly Roger,

Maybe you should have a cup of coffee and re-read the thread, buddy!

The consensus of the discussion is that if you use the fork as an aiming reference, the point of impact will change when the fork width changes. One correction is to compensate by changing the anchor point.

Regarding the Dead Ringer,Truth or Nothing originally posted:

" I ordered a Dead ringer from Nathan at simple shot since it is a dedicated BB shooter but man what a difference in where my aiming point is in reference to my top fork. I have to aim about 6 low, give or take."

Porky added: 
"I'm glad to see this topic being discussed as I, too, am experiencing the same issue with the Dead Ringer. I will give the suggestions provided here a try, thanks!"

And Truth or Nothing followed up: 
"I applied the techniques of adjusting my anchor and problem solved. My thumb resting directly under my cheek bone is dead on with the dead ringer, now even more fun to shoot."

Good discussion. I have a Dead Ringer, and it shoots as well as any other frame I have and about the same as other frames of the same fork width.

Enjoy that coffee!


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## brucered (Dec 30, 2015)

I have the Aluminum Dead Ringer, shoots fine for me too.


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## Royleonard (Jun 30, 2017)

I'm old and have spent a lot of time with the dead ringer.The chipmunks hate it irritates them and I hit them almost all the time.It took me some time to figure it out but it's time well spent.I had the time to practice,adjust and it works well for me as I don't want to kill them just irritate them.


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## RHTWIST (Jan 31, 2014)

Northerner said:


> Try using a variable anchor point aiming system. Sounds good, eh? I have been using this system for a few years now and it works great. I hold gangsta style, aiming with my top fork, and varying the anchor positions on my ear. My thumb knuckle is what I use to anchor. For short distances I will anchor at the top of the triangular ear flap. For medium distances I anchor right on the flap. For long distance I will anchor on my earlobe. For very long distance I anchor at the bottom of the lobe. You need to experiment to figure out your anchor points for each distance. You will quickly get the feel for each position on the ear.


I really like my ear anchor! I twist and put a knuckle in my ear and use different knuckles for height and general feel. I am shooting a floating anchor with pickle fork style slingshots. I see the points about set up. I do it differently and have BB only slingshots.

Not that, that is better, it's just how I do it. -CD


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