# 1745X2040 Tapered Tube Set [Open Source Project]



## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

Well my wheels are always turning though sometimes they are going backwards







This is what I am working on so far:

We all know that tapered band sets help increase the velocity of the ammo,but what do we do when we are tube users? 1. you could use the limited mass produced tapered tubes out in the marked i.e. dankung, or trumark? (one of those mass producers








).. or 2. work on making pseudo tapered tubes, which Henry in Panama has been diligently working on with some great success ( thanks, Henry. You da man).

I wanted to come up with an additional option for the speed freaks/ experimenters to work with, and hopefully progress the idea even further.

So with the slingshot materials I have, I made a "single" tapered tube with 1745 and 2040 tubes combined.

















I used my oring tool and wedged the two tubes together forming ,in a sense, a tapered tube set... I have only shot at a pillow so far, but it looks like it is worth working further on. once I get my chrony I will be doing some data gathering with this and two other sets; one with 1745 only same and the other with 2040 only to compare the differences with the three.

current set up I am working with is a 5.5 in 1745 tube wedged into a 4.5 in 2040 tube with the end result being an 8 in working length from fork to pouch.. If I see differences in my tests I will extend the work to the perfect length for optimal speed.... (this will be a long process though , due to time is working against me









If you feel like tackling this as well, feel free, and please share your results here.. I don:t mind cutting my workload with you guys.

Here is a video showing it a bit more, but basically stating the same thing with the hopes of it being clearer.






Thanks for taking your time stopping in









LGD


----------



## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

Cool Idea! I like the concept.. I shoot a lot of top slot frames and this should work well with them.

Keep us informed on the results.

Todd


----------



## crapshot (May 3, 2011)

i posted something similar using 5/16 and texs 1/4 inch inserted then tied sausage it was staggert tubes on a chief aj quik point picture 11 10 12


----------



## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

crapshot said:


> i posted something similar using 5/16 and texs 1/4 inch inserted then tied sausage it was staggert tubes on a chief aj quik point picture 11 10 12


Do you have any test data gathered? Do you think I will get good results with my set up?

LGD


----------



## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

Sorry, crapshoot... I didn't see your thread in the past. I searched through your content to see what you were talking about..

Here is the link for others http://slingshotforum.com/topic/19579-staggert-tubes/

I would like to know your findings, for sure,, it does seem like it should be promising...

LGD


----------



## crapshot (May 3, 2011)

sorry dont have any data i got this idea from hrawk when he was testing those green taper tubes on a mbbs frame from dakung wingshooter had a chrony tests on 1745singles back in the summer time if this helps


----------



## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

crapshot said:


> sorry dont have any data i got this idea from hrawk when he was testing those green taper tubes on a mbbs frame from dakung wingshooter had a chrony tests on 1745singles back in the summer time if this helps


Yeah, seeing those dankungs and Henry's drive to accomplish speed with tubes sparked the idea.. My first prototype was connecting the two tubes in a T forming a sort of double to single chain, but it was just too much of a PITA to get straight for me... I will have data up with my set up in the near future..

Thanks, no need for standard tube data... I need to make sure the lengths are similar for the comparison test to show if the extra work made a difference....

LGD


----------



## Henry the Hermit (Jun 2, 2010)

Yesterday I broke my right thumbnail and it tore off to the quick. Now I just got slapped on the sore spot for the 2d time today. First my set of 2040 tapered broke, so I tried what we talked about in the PM, except I used 2040 for the loop and 1842 for the straight section. The first warmup shot was promising at 335, but on the second shot the 1842 slipped out of the join and whacked my sore thumb. I may give the speed insanity a rest for a day or so.


----------



## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

Henry in Panama said:


> Yesterday I broke my right thumbnail and it tore off to the quick. Now I just got slapped on the sore spot for the 2d time today. First my set of 2040 tapered broke, so I tried what we talked about in the PM, except I used 2040 for the loop and 1842 for the straight section. The first warmup shot was promising at 335, but on the second shot the 1842 slipped out of the join and whacked my sore thumb. I may give the speed insanity a rest for a day or so.


THat sucks! Well maybe I will stick with zip ties for now... And quit using this set up once I get a record speed... That and ill be wearing gloves.


----------



## fsa46 (Jul 8, 2012)

Henry in Panama said:


> THat sucks! Well maybe I will stick with zip ties for now... And quit using this set up once I get a record speed... That and ill be wearing gloves.


I to tried (and posted ) something similar, and although I don't have a crony either, I like the results. I think you're on to something and wish you wouldn't give up on it. This has a lot of potential once a SAFE method of attaching is found. I'm sure it will be after a lot of testing ( and unfortunately pain ).

I used a constrictor knot with rubber band to make the connection and seemed to work fine. However, I was using a 27" draw at the time and would like it to be safe at a 37" draw.


----------



## Henry the Hermit (Jun 2, 2010)

fsa46 said:


> The first warmup shot was promising at 335, but on the second shot the 1842 slipped out of the join and whacked my sore thumb. I may .


Henry, sorry to hear the bad news, BUT, 335 fps sounds interesting. What draw length were you using when you got that speed ?
[/quote]

It was not max draw, probably about 35 inches. I draw a bit more when going for max speed.


----------



## Smashtoad (Sep 3, 2010)

This subject is very cool and intriguing. I work with a bunch of engineers, and I just asked the coolest one what he thought about a tapered tube set like this. I hope to make an 1842/1745 set pretty soon. Though I don't have a crony, The eye should be able to make a rough estimate of speed, especially with white marbles.

We agreed (though we may be wrong) that the lighter tube should be looped, and the thicker straight. You guys agree with that? Any findings that confirm or disprove it?


----------



## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

Smashtoad said:


> This subject is very cool and intriguing. I work with a bunch of engineers, and I just asked the coolest one what he thought about a tapered tube set like this. I hope to make an 1842/1745 set pretty soon. Though I don't have a crony, The eye should be able to make a rough estimate of speed, especially with white marbles.
> 
> We agreed (though we may be wrong) that the lighter tube should be looped, and the thicker straight. You guys agree with that? Any findings that confirm or disprove it?


I am currently on hold with this project, but it is all depending.. the goal would be to have the looped portion (fork end) to have a stronger pull than the straight portion (pouch end). The tapered is effective not by looks but how the energy is dispersed during the draw. So my guess would be if the looped lighter tubes are a bit stronger than the straight heavy, you will have a tapered effect.

However, if you looped the heavier tube and it is too much for the lighter straight tube to utilize the full potential of the looped you would be wasting more energy used for the ammo.

So in a nutshell... it will take some testing to know that for sure.... How about making two sets? reversing the tubes being used as the loop... I will do this sometime in the later portion of my tests....... once I get around to it of course









LGD


----------



## Wingshooter (Dec 24, 2009)

I set up some tapered singles useing 1745 and 2050. I placed a 5mm faceted plastic bead in the 1745 and inserted it in the end of the 2050 then placed a cuff of 1745 over the end of the 2050 to help hold it in place. I shoot 7/16 steel with this setup and they really zip. I don't have my crono set up. I pull 36 inches and shoot hail mary style. I have not had a set come apart but i would not hold one end up to my face just me.


----------



## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

Thanks for partaking, Roger.

That seems to be a smart way of doing it, with the bead I mean, when I get back to testing my setup I will keep that in mind if the tiny zipties seem to be a hindrance.

LGD


----------



## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

Try using some crazy glue when you insert the one tube into the other. Early on crazy glue was used to bond skin for emergency medical treatment. I can attest that it bonds rubber bands rather well. I have used it to bond rubber bands when making some specialized gimmicks for magic routines. Just a thought.

Cheers .... Charles


----------



## Henry the Hermit (Jun 2, 2010)

Details later, I have to go to the store in a few minutes. Anyway, I finally figured out a simple way to test the idea, and first results are very promising. Comparing looped hybrid (1745/2040) to looped 1745, I got 10 fps more velocity at noticeably lighter pull. Here's a hint. This was with 12.7 mm lead. More testing is definitely in order.


----------



## Wingshooter (Dec 24, 2009)

I just put some 2050 tube into some Tex heavy tubes. I shot 1/2 inch steel for few minutes i think they will work out fine for 1/2 steel. I guess I am going to have to get my crono out and see what these combos produce. This ball in the tube with the cuff holds very well I made a short set of 1745 into 2050 and did some over stretching and they haven't come apart.


----------



## Henry the Hermit (Jun 2, 2010)

Here are some preliminary tests on the hybrid tube set made from 1745 and 2040 tube. First the how to.

Cut two lengths of 1745 nine inches long and two lengths of 2040 7 inches long. Tie the 2040 in a looped configuration to a suitable pouch. I used a many-times-shot Performance Catapults pouch. Then loop the 1745 tubes through the 2040 loops and tie the ends. See pictures for detail. Now attach the tube set to a suitable frame. I used one of my early days plywood board cuts. Please ignore the ugly. This is from before I learned how to make pretty. I used this frame because it has slots. First I secured the tubes to the frame with waxed string , then wrapped with a #64 rubber band.

Early tests are very encouraging. Using .50 cal/ 12.7mm lead, I averaged 205 fps with the hybrid set and 195 fps with the 1745. The hybrid is quite a bit lighter pull than the 1745. I also shot some 240+ fps shots with .44 cal/11mm lead. 3/8 lead got me to 260 fps, but handslap was ferocious.

Here are the pics.


----------



## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

That's cool Henry, turning two types of tubes into a tapered chain seems very promising.... I did some tests with my original set up in the first post,, and got good results, but not good enough







... I looped the fork end making the psudo-tapered hybrid, and kept the zip ties (zips seem to be a secure and acceptable fastening method for me. I am currently at work, but when I get home I will chrony it and post pics here and hopefully a vid in the "300 club"









LGD


----------



## stej (Jan 16, 2013)

Henry in Panama said:


> Here are some preliminary tests on the hybrid tube set made from 1745 and 2040 tube. First the how to.
> 
> Cut two lengths of 1745 nine inches long and two lengths of 2040 7 inches long. Tie the 2040 in a looped configuration to a suitable pouch. I used a many-times-shot Performance Catapults pouch. Then loop the 1745 tubes through the 2040 loops and tie the ends. See pictures for detail. Now attach the tube set to a suitable frame. I used one of my early days plywood board cuts. Please ignore the ugly. This is from before I learned how to make pretty. I used this frame because it has slots. First I secured the tubes to the frame with waxed string , then wrapped with a #64 rubber band.
> 
> ...


Does it affect your accuracy? Now it would be great to invent ho to attach these tapered tubes to the ring shooter


----------



## Henry the Hermit (Jun 2, 2010)

I didn't find any improvement in accuracy, and the 2040 tube broke at the point where the two tubes make contact after about 150 shots. I haven't done any more tests.


----------

