# Gluing Theraband Gold



## mcchase (Dec 14, 2012)

Evening all,

Long time browser of the site - first time poster, I have a question that hopefully someone may be able to shed some light on;

I have bought myself a new slingshot recently which came attached with the Chinese style 'loop' bands (that I'm not a big fan of). My plan was to replace the bands by looping some theraband gold strips inside the rings of the forks and fix the theraband to itself with a latex based thermoset adhehsive - however, so far I'm struggling to find a decent solvent glue that fits this purpose. I'm starting to wonder if theraband isn't 'pure' latex which is causing me the trouble or I am simply using the wrong adhesives. Has anyone given this a try before and could suggest a brand of adhesive that works well?

Thanks in advance,

Chase.


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

Hello, mcchase, and welcome to the forum. I don't think gluing theraband is something that has been explored very much . . . whatever you discover in your inquiry, please keep us informed.


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## superman365 (Dec 5, 2012)

I would bind it together with thin strips of Theraband gold.....stretch the two surfaces tight before wraping though....I would just attach it to the slingshot as gamekeeper atttaches the pouch in this video


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## mcchase (Dec 14, 2012)

Ill be sure to keep you informed if I ever crack it Dayhiker!

Thanks for the video demonstration Superman, I've tied all my other slingshots before - and although a great fixing, I was really after a 'flat' band that stays flat from fork to pouch rather than the inevitable curved affair you obtain by tying.


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## superman365 (Dec 5, 2012)

I dont have nothing...havent ever heard of gluing them....sorry...good luck and inform us on any success!!


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## mcchase (Dec 14, 2012)

I will do, thanks for the help anyway!


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## orcrender (Sep 11, 2010)

I have tried this. Use a rubber cement to connect a loop and then soft cotton twine to do a constrictor knot over the glued area, but waxed string also works. This came from Jack's (Kingcat I think) book. Seems to work fine for my light pulls.


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

I have two suggestions for you.

1) Try an acetone based contact cement. It is basically just latex dissolved in acetone. READ THE DIRECTIONS ON THE CONTAINER. Coat each surface with the glue and let it dry ... at least 15 minutes. Then press the two surfaces together ... they will bond instantly and cannot be repositioned. Being latex, the cured contact cement remains pretty flexible. I do not know how well it will stand up to the stretching and abuse inherent in your application.

2) Try crazy glue. One of the early applications of crazy glue was for emergency surgery, instead of using stitches, to join flaps of skin together. I have used crazy glue to make odd rubber bands for special magic apparatus. But again, I do not know how well it will stand up in your application.

Cheers ..... Charles


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## mcchase (Dec 14, 2012)

orcrender said:


> I have tried this. Use a rubber cement to connect a loop and then soft cotton twine to do a constrictor knot over the glued area, but waxed string also works. This came from Jack's (Kingcat I think) book. Seems to work fine for my light pulls.


Again, I'm trying to avoid tying on this method, I really want the bands to remain flat from the pouch to the forks. I appreciate I'm probably not explaining this too well! So I'll try and upload a picture soon.


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## mcchase (Dec 14, 2012)

Charles said:


> I have two suggestions for you.
> 
> 1) Try an acetone based contact cement. It is basically just latex dissolved in acetone. READ THE DIRECTIONS ON THE CONTAINER. Coat each surface with the glue and let it dry ... at least 15 minutes. Then press the two surfaces together ... they will bond instantly and cannot be repositioned. Being latex, the cured contact cement remains pretty flexible. I do not know how well it will stand up to the stretching and abuse inherent in your application.
> 
> ...


Thanks Charles, do you know a brand name I can try? I've been using a solvent (acetone) adhesive, though it's debatable if it's latex based (could be PVC?)


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## Henry the Hermit (Jun 2, 2010)

I'm a bit confused. Why not just cut the TB for twice the length you want and tie the loose ends at the pouch? You have to tie on a pouch in any case.


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

Henry in Panama said:


> I'm a bit confused. Why not just cut the TB for twice the length you want and tie the loose ends at the pouch? You have to tie on a pouch in any case.


Henry, the reason I'm interested in gluing theraband is for experimenting with half-tapers. Mine either slip or break at the tie.


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## Henry the Hermit (Jun 2, 2010)

Dayhiker said:


> I'm a bit confused. Why not just cut the TB for twice the length you want and tie the loose ends at the pouch? You have to tie on a pouch in any case.


Henry, the reason I'm interested in gluing theraband is for experimenting with half-tapers. Mine either slip or break at the tie.
[/quote]

That makes sense. I was replying to the op. I guess if what you have is pre-tied bandsets with double bands, my solution isn't workable. I agree with Charles. If anything will work it's contact cement. Just make sure you have your pieces where you want them before you touch them together.


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)




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## orcrender (Sep 11, 2010)

Barge Rubber cement is a named brand I have heard on the forum. It is listed on Amazon.


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## Berkshire bred (Mar 4, 2012)

just bind it with some thin strips of thera band then use the wrap and tuck method to secure it.


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## superman365 (Dec 5, 2012)

Berkshire bred said:


> just bind it with some thin strips of thera band then use the wrap and tuck method to secure it.


he wants the bands completely flat


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

mcchase said:


> I have two suggestions for you.
> 
> 1) Try an acetone based contact cement. It is basically just latex dissolved in acetone. READ THE DIRECTIONS ON THE CONTAINER. Coat each surface with the glue and let it dry ... at least 15 minutes. Then press the two surfaces together ... they will bond instantly and cannot be repositioned. Being latex, the cured contact cement remains pretty flexible. I do not know how well it will stand up to the stretching and abuse inherent in your application.
> 
> ...


Thanks Charles, do you know a brand name I can try? I've been using a solvent (acetone) adhesive, though it's debatable if it's latex based (could be PVC?)
[/quote]

Locally (Victoria, B.C., Canada) I use Lepage Pres-Tite Blue Contact Cement, Heavy Duty. Personally I have not tried it on latex. I have used it to bond aluminum and plexiglass, camping foam to PVC pipe, and rubber pond liner to camping foam. I have also used it to bond leather to leather.

There are versions of contact cement that are "water clean up". You do NOT want that stuff, as it is very light duty.

Cheers ...... Charles


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## mcchase (Dec 14, 2012)

Thanks for all the support guys, I'm taken back by all the answers I've been given. I will keep everyone posted with the progress on this. Thanks again for everyones time, much appreciated.

Chase.


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