# Single 1745 Speed (video)



## Wingshooter (Dec 24, 2009)

I have been shooting single tube setups for a while now. I tried the tapered setups and the looped tubes. For me the tapered are a pain to get setup and the loops keep getting in my way I don't know how these guys shoot them but i know they do, and well. I started shooting the single tubes with 3/8 and was getting good speed so i tried the 7/16. I cut a set of tubes to 6 1/2 and pulled them to 32 inches. I shot them that way for over a week well over a 1000 shots. I set up my crono and was pleasantly surprise at the speed I am getting with these things. I am like everybody else looking for the combo that gives me the easy draw, long life and reasonable speed. With the speed i am getting out of these things i am getting 7.5 foot pounds that just ain't to bad.


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## Rayshot (Feb 1, 2010)

Well Roger, we seem to be treading the same path lately as today I did the same thing, Chrony'd the same single tubes at 6 1/2, tie to tie. My draw is 30-32 I shoot TTF too. My draw was at the 30 mark and I would draw and pause for a fraction of a second. I was getting 195 to 200.


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## Wingshooter (Dec 24, 2009)

Rayshot said:


> Well Roger, we seem to be treading the same path lately as today I did the same thing, Chrony'd the same single tubes at 6 1/2, tie to tie. My draw is 30-32 I shoot TTF too. My draw was at the 30 mark and I would draw and pause for a fraction of a second. I was getting 195 to 200.


Ray I am glad you got the same results. when I first started shooting the singles I thought maybe my crono was off a little. I would not hesitate to take this combo hunting. Another thing I forgot to mention is how quite this setup is. I guess with the 7/16 they must use up all the energy because I don't think I ever heared a setup as quite.


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## Rayshot (Feb 1, 2010)

Yeah these small tubes are quiet.

I have had trouble with looped tubes being consitent. There is a learning curve for sure. Admittedly I haven't done extensive shooting wiht the variety of looped configurations but the full looped tubes like Jim Harris sells are the type of configuration I find less finicky.


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## Henry the Hermit (Jun 2, 2010)

I got nearly identical speeds with 6.5 inches of 1842 and .363 lead (74 grains). With 3/8 steel I got 230 fps. I'm really pleased to see others getting the same results I do with the Chinese rubber. It means I ain't making it up.


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

Nice results guys. Thanks for the report.

Cheers ..... Charles


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## Wingshooter (Dec 24, 2009)

Henry in Panama said:


> I got nearly identical speeds with 6.5 inches of 1842 and .363 lead (74 grains). With 3/8 steel I got 230 fps. I'm really pleased to see others getting the same results I do with the Chinese rubber. It means I ain't making it up.


Henry I have set of 1842 that I have been shooting. I forgot to put them in the video. I set mine up to just under 6 inches and they shoot the 7/16 (86.4 grain) at 190 to 195 consistantly. They pull easier than the 1745 and darn near as fast. That is still over 7 ft pds. I have just started shooting this set and want to see how long they will last. I know what you mean about making this up I tried to tell my neighbor about this and after he pulled the 1842 tube set you could see in his eyes he thought I was shuckin and jivin him.


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## Northerner (Nov 9, 2010)

Thanks for posting Henry. I still haven't tried the Chinese tubes but I just finished a comparison for Hygenic latex bands (.030").

I have a set of .030" bands cut to 3/4" x 8". They pull *9 lb 8.6 oz *at my 32" draw length. They shoot 3/8" steel at 183 fps.
I have a set of .030" bands cut to 7/8" x 8". They pull *11 lbs 2.6 oz *at my 32" draw length. They shoot 3/8" steel at 195 fps.

I haven't tested the straight cut Hygenic for band life but I did test TBG. With 3/4" x 8" TBG I got 1325-1350 shots before they broke (2 tests). With 1" x 3/4" x8" TBG I recently counted 1083 shots before they broke.

What kind of draw weight do you have at 32" with the 1745 x 6 1/2"?

Cheers,
Northerner


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## Wingshooter (Dec 24, 2009)

I don't have any idea what the draw weight is on my 1745 tubes but I pull them with my finger tips, very easy and the 1842's are really easy to pull.


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## Rayshot (Feb 1, 2010)

Wingshooter said:


> I don't have any idea what the draw weight is on my 1745 tubes but I pull them with my finger tips, very easy and the 1842's are really easy to pull.


The 1745 single per side, 6 1/2 in. tie to tie pulls at apprx 10 lbs at 32 in+-


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## M.J (Nov 1, 2010)

Rayshot said:


> Yeah these small tubes are quiet.
> 
> I have had trouble with looped tubes being consitent. There is a learning curve for sure. Admittedly I haven't done extensive shooting wiht the variety of looped configurations but the full looped tubes like Jim Harris sells are the type of configuration I find less finicky.


The trick is that you can't shoot them like flats, they won't respond. Shooting looped tubes is a fully two-handed operation that seems to require a strong follow-through with the draw hand and at least a little flip of the frame to be done right.
(/end hijack)
I tried a set of single 1842s cut to 6" active length and found them to be just adequate with 7/16" steel. I much prefer looped 2040s at the same active length. They're just as easy to make, don't draw that much harder and are faster. I guess that's a different discussion, though.


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## AJW (Apr 24, 2011)

Thanks for starting this topic Wingshooter, good information.


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## Rayshot (Feb 1, 2010)

M_J said:


> Yeah these small tubes are quiet.
> 
> I have had trouble with looped tubes being consitent. There is a learning curve for sure. Admittedly I haven't done extensive shooting wiht the variety of looped configurations but the full looped tubes like Jim Harris sells are the type of configuration I find less finicky.


The trick is that you can't shoot them like flats, they won't respond. Shooting looped tubes is a fully two-handed operation that seems to require a strong follow-through with the draw hand and at least a little flip of the frame to be done right.
(/end hijack)
I tried a set of single 1842s cut to 6" active length and found them to be just adequate with 7/16" steel. I much prefer looped 2040s at the same active length. They're just as easy to make, don't draw that much harder and are faster. I guess that's a different discussion, though.
[/quote]

Agreed picking up a slingshot set up with a looped set that isn't fixed to the forks can't be shot the same. I do a flip with my intuitive shooting and I think I have a slight flip sideways shooting, so that could factor into the following.

I have shot a fair amount with looped tubes and what I keep coming up with the big factor with tubes is; they need to be "set', "reset" after each shot. IE, tubes even and in the correct place in the hole of the fork. If I do that the I can pretty much shoot it the same as flats as far as draw and release. My most consecutive hits on a 1 1/2 ball from 33 feet was with a looped 1745 shot on the Flipkung. The only thing I did different was making sure my tubes were "set" before each draw.

With much use of tubes, like most practiced things, the "setting" (restting) the tubes is second nature and done unconsciously.


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## hawk2009 (Dec 30, 2009)

Here is a an old video of mine with the results of testing fixed strand tubing, I have just purchased a general dankung looped tube shooter and have been trialing it and will post some chrony results next week, I have been a chinese tube shooter from day one about 4 years now and always said these are incredible tubes and still do, the tube sets last for what seems an eternity especially with the fixed strand as you only have to replace one band not half a set like you do with looped they are also faster than looped , Not knocking looped For accuracy I find them equal and from 33ft which is my usual target range and can sit one shot on top of another, A point mentioned when shooting looped was setting them after each shot if you are using a dankung stainless steel slingshot they sit directly on curved steel and one side can slip down giving you a flyer I remidied this by moving the rubber finger grips up on to the curve the tube now sits on the rubber unable to move giving you perfection each shot and no messing about setting it up, again I will post a video showing this next week when I get some time.


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## AZshooter (May 1, 2011)

How would you fix a single strand of tubing securely in your top-slot shooter...?


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## Wingshooter (Dec 24, 2009)

Here is a picture that shows it. Basicly just pull a tube down into the 1/8 hole and make it the length you want then fold the tail back over and pull it down into the hole also The 1745's you don't have to use the matchstick method but the others you do. I rotate mine so they are side by side not on top of each other keeps them in place better.


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