# Dankung tube info



## nutthrower (Dec 18, 2011)

ok, well, maybe more for my info then yours - have learned so much in a short period of time but still need to pay more attention, my thought on tube sizes were the larger the number (17*45 - 20*40) meant stronger /faster , ................NOT

contacted Dankung to ask for there opinion on this according to what I ordered. this was the answer

from least to the strongest: 17*45, 20*50, 50*80, 

from fastest to the slowest: 17*45, 20*50, 50*80

so the 1745 is the fastest but with least power itself, this is why we make the 4-strand 1745 band.

 4-strand 1745 band is strong with fastest speed.

sooooo maybe someone can explain why the 50*80's being strongest are not the fastest? would this be due to mass?


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

Yes due to mass. You are not only accelerating the weight of the ammo, but the pouch and the bands as well.

In saying that, the ammo weight still has a lot to do with performance. If you were shooting heavier ammo, you might find that the strongest bands are in fact faster.

It's all about matching the right bands to the ammo you use.


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## nutthrower (Dec 18, 2011)

hey thanks Hrawk, getting to understand , just alot more to this then when I was a kid - many moons ago I might add


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

Hehe, I'm still a kid. The only thing that changed as I got older is the price of my toys.

When it comes to tubes, I like to use 4 strand 1745's. They provide good speed for 9.5mm steel up to 12mm lead.


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

There are many other factors that affect band speed ... in particular, surface area is a big factor. Within reason, the more surface area to volume, the faster the rate of contraction. So thin bands in general retract faster than thicker bands. But as Hrawk pointed out, the weight of the ammo makes a big difference as well. The thinner bands will not be as strong. It is much like watching a boxing match ... those fly weight guys are very fast, generally faster than the heavy weights. But the heavy weights really pack a punch! So if you try to shoot heavy ammo with thin bands, you will not get very good speed. As Hrawk points out, you have to match the bands to your ammo, or your ammo to your bands.

You might want to check ZDP's blog about bands and speed if you require a more technical account.

Cheers .... Charles


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## nutthrower (Dec 18, 2011)

hey charles, ya I'm beginning to get it, just have to spend more time reading these entries and I'll get there, slow but surely, use to be so easy, cut up a tire tube tie it on a forked stick and put some rocks in the ol pocket and off we went ....... I enjoy this alot more ..........


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## ssssSnake (Nov 29, 2011)

NO thisssssss is great info as I am a newbie as well to a lot of the technicalities of ssssslingshots. Thanks for posting that nut "chucker"! I am gonna order sssssssssome Dankung bands here shortly so the timing was perfect!

Where are you in WA? Pm if you like.

ssssssSnake


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## hawk2009 (Dec 30, 2009)

Their are many ways to to develop different strengths and speed, I shoot fixed and you can make a two strand four strand and six strand set up using different tube sizes ie: 1745* and 2040* you have six different strengths right their, adjusting the length of the tubes from the ear to half butterfly to full butterfly you have even more variations you need to play around with it a little to find what suits you. My personnel set up is four strand 1745* shooting 9.5mm steel the length of the tubes from the pouch to the bearing in the tube is 16cm 18cm in total length. this set up hits very hard and has very good speed.


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

photos???


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## Henry the Hermit (Jun 2, 2010)

I just finished running a series of speed tests on 1842 tubes. Since these are very similar (lighter pull) to 1745, you might find some of that information useful. For example, I found I could get better speed with light ammo using a tapered configuration rather than doubled. Here's the thread. http://slingshotforum.com/topic/13242-testing-chinese-tubes/


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## pgandy (Aug 15, 2011)

I have found a new anchor point that is working. This has increased my draw from 28” to 31” with an increase in velocity, as expected. I am now cutting new bands and experimenting as everything I have was set to work with the 28” draw. I have just begun, and no doubt there is a combination out there that I haven’t found but the 28” draw with the thinner green/silver/silver band still has a velocity edge over the thicker gold/gold bands at 31”.


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

Henry in Panama said:


> I just finished running a series of speed tests on 1842 tubes. Since these are very similar (lighter pull) to 1745, you might find some of that information useful. For example, I found I could get better speed with light ammo using a tapered configuration rather than doubled. Here's the thread. http://slingshotforu...-chinese-tubes/


Henry, I am not surprised at your results. We all (or at least most of us) know that tapered bands shoot faster than single straight cut bands. Further, pseudo tapered bands made by half doubling shoot faster than doubled bands. I think you posted some tests on that, as did I. It was great that you have gone into so much detail to determine what seems to be the optimum doubling ratio, and also I really appreciate your work with the tubes. I had made up some half doubled band sets with 1745 to test, but had not yet gotten to it. Now you have saved me the trouble!

Cheers ..... Charles


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## nutthrower (Dec 18, 2011)

ssssSnake,

liv'n here in Vancouver, (ya the other Vancouver)







.......what bout you?


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## ssssSnake (Nov 29, 2011)

nut thrower said:


> ssssSnake,
> 
> liv'n here in Vancouver, (ya the other Vancouver)
> 
> ...


We are neighbors then! PM me if you like. I take my neighbors kids down to the end of Vancouver Lake on ocasssssion to lob marbles at unsuspecting sssssssssssoda cans.


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