# Sandpaper on HDPE



## you'llshootyereyeout

Here is one I finally got around to finishing. I carved this one out of a thick block of poly. Shaped it with sanders, belt/drum and a dremel tool. Had to finish sand by hand. Turns out it's time consuming.


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## leon13

But looks worth it


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## Bob Fionda

Great slingshot,. I like shapes and the colors!


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## Dayhiker

Well, if you're not trying to make multiple copies of the same frame it's not too time consuming. If you only want to make one for yourself once in a while it can be enjoyable work, a chance to keep your hands busy while you drink a pot of coffee (or pitcher of iced tea) and listen to some good music, or an audiobook.

Nice fork. You really got it goin' on with the hdpe, Matt. I love mine!


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## devils son in law

Diggin' it!!!!


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## bigdh2000

Yes, HDPE can be sanded but only up to a point. No matter how much you try there will always be scratches because the material is naturally soft. I have tried a wide range of things to remove the scratches with limited success. I use an oscillating sander down to 320 grit (slap a little water on the disk toward the end) before a loose cotton buffing wheel set to about 2000 RPM (any faster and you melt the HDPE). The blue polishing compound seems to be the best, however, it dirties up all the scratches on dark colored HDPE (wash it with dish soap and then give it a final clean cloth hand polish). It is the most perfect method I have found.

Wet sanding to finer grits really saw no benefit for the time expended.

I tried a hot air blower but it only worked if the two HDPE types were identical. Not all HDPE is made the same so you get uneven melting which does not work for a fine finish.

I tried the oven set really high (450 degrees F) for a minute or two in hopes of the shine returning. Same problem as the hot air blower, uneven melting.

I even tried flaming like you can do for acrylic. Let's just say, hugely unsuccessful...no further comment.

If you find something that works better folks, let me know.


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## Byudzai

beautiful work matt. always amazed at the color balances you get. bravo for championing the art of multi-color HDPE work. I think many have gazed up at that mountain and gone home.


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## Mr. P

That looks extremely comfortable. Super cool design.


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## Volp

Very nice slingshot! I really like the curvature for the palm of your hand, it looks very comfortable.

Did you tried?

Take care

Volp


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## Samurai Samoht

Turned out really nice.


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## DougDynasty

Man that's sharp. Really nice


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## Peter Recuas

Very nice 3D ergo curves


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## you'llshootyereyeout

Volp said:


> Very nice slingshot! I really like the curvature for the palm of your hand, it looks very comfortable.
> Did you tried?
> 
> Take care
> 
> Volp


Thanks man! I've been shooting it yesterday and today. I haven't even put a lanyard on it yet and it's still comfy. I started out with 3/4 butterfly 2040's shooting 1/2 steel. Switched to the large amber tubing (from simpleshot.com) pulling to just past my ear still shooting 1/2" steel. Improved my consistency and accuracy. No probs with the tube attachment on either end. Gonna put this attachment system on some of my other frames.


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## toolmantf99

Byudzai said:


> beautiful work matt. always amazed at the color balances you get. bravo for championing the art of multi-color HDPE work. I think many have gazed up at that mountain and gone home.


I went home :neener:


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## Chepo69

Muy vistoso el colorido y las formas, Excellent work!


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## Slingshot Silas

Hey YSYEO,

Very cool slingshot! Might try acetone to get out the fine scratches. I know it works on PVC. It makes the surface VERY smooth, with almost a silky feeling to it. Don't know if it works on HDPE. I don't have any acetone, or I would try it and see it it works. Might be worth a try. I would use gloves if you elect to try it, as acetone is rough on the skin. Also, be sure to use in a well ventilated area, as the fumes are not good for you either. It is also extremely flammable.

Read the label for some other warnings.

Best of luck,

SSS


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## keramos

It's very nice for the color and the shape. It seems a great slingshot indeed.


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## Chuck Daehler

You did this one proud, bud! Ah yes, now you appreciate ergo with HDPE...now you can envision me rasping a blank band sawed form to shape with two rasps..one a round, other a half round, rasping again with a finer half round rasp, rough sanding, and sanding and sanding and sanding including 40 grit, 60 grit, 100 grit, 150 grit, 220 grit, 350 grit and finally being "satisfied" with that and some automotive wax. Sheesh. I found wet sanding works much better for it cools the plastic and makes it more "sandable" as well as cleaning the sandpaper of plastic dust. A day was spent sanding my super ergos and magnums alone. I was sure glad, as I imagine you were, when those HDPEs were finally done and shootin'. This is why I've stopped making super ergos from HDPE (and micarta, a bear to work with for it resists SANDING). I can see why bandsawing, routing, drilling etc. with a couple more minor steps and touch ups are the way to go for production models.

But but but, the final ergonomic masterpiece is ONE SLICK CHICK!!!!! as you so well displayed here. Nice one, Matt! If it were me I wouldn't sell this one...but SSs are your biz so it's your call obviously. The color scheme is also tops...very nice indeedy. You are the jeweler of HDPE (and other materials as well!). Count me as a 'like'.

And I like the lanyard hole appendix below the pinky hole... all so well designed and executed. And to think all those prehistoric organisms millions and millions of years ago that made petroleum made your slingshot...made of petroleum, with a few chemical sylvan interludes. And of course thanks to the giant biggie of one of the first giant hydrogen stars in the universe that exploded as a super nova, creating the gas/debris nebula of elements Earth and the rest of the solar system was made from. And thank you Matt for sharing your days of work.


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## wombat

bigdh2000 said:


> Yes, HDPE can be sanded but only up to a point. No matter how much you try there will always be scratches because the material is naturally soft. I have tried a wide range of things to remove the scratches with limited success. I use an oscillating sander down to 320 grit (slap a little water on the disk toward the end) before a loose cotton buffing wheel set to about 2000 RPM (any faster and you melt the HDPE). The blue polishing compound seems to be the best, however, it dirties up all the scratches on dark colored HDPE (wash it with dish soap and then give it a final clean cloth hand polish). It is the most perfect method I have found.
> 
> Wet sanding to finer grits really saw no benefit for the time expended.
> 
> I tried a hot air blower but it only worked if the two HDPE types were identical. Not all HDPE is made the same so you get uneven melting which does not work for a fine finish.
> 
> I tried the oven set really high (450 degrees F) for a minute or two in hopes of the shine returning. Same problem as the hot air blower, uneven melting.
> 
> I even tried flaming like you can do for acrylic. Let's just say, hugely unsuccessful...no further comment.
> 
> If you find something that works better folks, let me know.


I haven't tried it on HDPE but when i was working as a mold maker for a plastics company, one of their secrets for getting scratches out was a rub down with Brasso.


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## Chuck Daehler

I tried MEK and acetone on HDPE and it had zero effect. Both solvents COME in HDPE bottles so I didn't think they'd work in the first place else the bottles would have disintegrated. To shine using a solvent the solvent has to dissolve some of the work.

Matt, how in blazes did you get such a shiny finish? The best I can do is to sand until 500 grit (grrr) then use automotive rubbing compound then car wax and buff with a soft cloth...and that produces only a semi sheen. I really don't want a polish on HDPE anyway but I thought I'd dry. How'd you do that?

Automotive rubbing compound is also a metal polish, not as good as Brasso because its courser as an abrasive should be, rather than a polish. I have a 15 inch long piece of plywood about 8 inches across covered with one piece of leather. One side from the midline is impregnated with Brasso, the other side with automotive rubbing compound. I use it as a strop for final edging on my cutlery...first the compound, 2nd the Brasso. Makes an edge razor sharp (literally). Just thought I'd add that hint for the craftsman in you.

Again, very nice work.


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## Chuck Daehler

Matt, that tube attachment to the fork, is that just a simple slot to "stretch/insert" the tubes without pegs or BBs? I can't make it out from the photo.


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## you'llshootyereyeout

To polish I used sandpaper and a heat gun. I'm editing a video about it. Will post soon.

The attachment method is Alex's older method. The "Viper". Just stretch and insert.


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## CanH8r

Great frame Matt. Love the shape.


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## gonene1

very nice, and this tube attachment very nice indeed


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## Tag

BEAUTIFUL


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## RHTWIST

Wow, what a cool SS! So much going on and that tube attach, I don't know if I have ever seen exactly that. Saving my bottles for my first HDPE. -CD


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