# "Slim U" - New Multiplex Design



## JoergS (Dec 17, 2009)

Had to test my new saw.

So I made this new design from 18 mm multiplex... a very simple, yet daring frame.

The fork is really slim, which makes the slingshot look elegant, I think. The stability is there, it comes from the depth of the fork arms. This easily survived my vise test for the strongest bands.

It really shoots great - and no handslaps, the fork protects my hand pretty good!














































Jörg


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

Very nice indeed!

I'm curious as to what range tools you use to shape your handles? They always come out so perfect!


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## lucifer93 (May 4, 2010)

Very nice Jorg, how does it shoot ? We need to see a video of you shooting this.


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## lobodog2 (Nov 10, 2010)

Jorg...I have very much so enjoyed every video you have made. The " Slingshot Vs. Safety Glasses" by far being my favorite.. .(I love the egg) This Slingshot is something out of the ordinary, even for you!! I will be watching this one!! Nice Job!!


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## 919h (Aug 27, 2010)

Very nice !


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

Joerg, I agree that this is a very elegant and strong design. But don't you think you will get a short band life because of the concentrated stress area at the fork? I'd be interested in some shot counts with that model.


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## CB900SS (Jul 24, 2010)

That is gorgeous and very unique!!


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## ronan (Oct 19, 2010)

Very beautiful and interesting !
With this slingshot you push the low forks concept to the extreme limits.
It must be suitable for strong bands shooting
I like it very much.


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## NaturalFork (Jan 21, 2010)

I like it. The new saw looks like it works great!


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## ZDP-189 (Mar 14, 2010)

That's indeed very elegant. Your woodworking skills continue to improve. I see you have a lot of control over your cut, shaping and your sanding. It's not easy to make a thin curved taper, especially on two symmetrical forks. Well done!

Seeing as we are deviating from 'designs for everyman' that was your mantra, why not carve a twist a bit like a propeller that starts out like you have done, but gradually twists in the fork to become horizontal? If plywood can't support a thin twisted structure like that, you could laminate G10 onto the front. Now that would be a test for your new jigsaw!


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## e~shot (Jun 3, 2010)

Looks great ,first time I have seen band attachment like this.


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## A+ Slingshots (Jan 22, 2010)

Very interesting look!! Cool!!!


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## JoergS (Dec 17, 2009)

Thanks guys!

Dayhiker, I have never had a slingshot that caused the rubber to break at the fork side. Thousands of bands, all torn sooner or later at the pouch side. As long as the fork is well rounded, even a small radius does not seem to cause enough abrasion to make that point give up earlier than the pouch side. But you are right, we will see. This is a test slingshot indeed.

Dan, a long time ago I tried to carve a chain out of a piece of wood. It worked, but looked kind of ugly. A twisted fork seems much like the same kind of challenge! I don't know, I think this one, I can't master with the few tools I have.

Hrawk, the "Slim U" was made with just my new saw, a rasp, three different files and sand paper.

Jörg


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## Jaybird (Dec 20, 2009)

Jorg
Nice slingshot.We called files German planes in the gunsmith trade.


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## northern lights (Oct 31, 2010)

If i try to make that I would end up with kindling for my wood stove. Very nice sling !!!


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## Holzwurm (Nov 5, 2010)

JoergS said:


> Thanks guys!
> 
> Dayhiker, I have never had a slingshot that caused the rubber to break at the fork side. Thousands of bands, all torn sooner or later at the pouch side. As long as the fork is well rounded, even a small radius does not seem to cause enough abrasion to make that point give up earlier than the pouch side. But you are right, we will see. This is a test slingshot indeed.
> 
> Jörg


Valuable info for a newbie like me , ...........thanks for sharing







.

Very nice and unique design on this new model







, .............looks very elegant with its thin fork and matching well-shaped handle







!

greetz , Holzwurm


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## JoergS (Dec 17, 2009)

Did about 100 shots this morning, then I had to go back inside to warm up (it's really cold). No signs of wear on the fork.

It's a great shooter! I cut the bands 5 cm at the fork and 2 cm at the pouch. Really good target setup for 15 mm steel balls. In this time of the year, fast shots don't work anyway.


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## JoergS (Dec 17, 2009)

Bands tore at the pouch side, as per usual. About 500 shots, full draw.

The frame is safe! No wear at the fork side.


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## PJB21 (Nov 1, 2010)

beautiful slingshot, really makes me want to get into making them. i love the shape. would be nice to see a video about it if you havent already uploaded one. great work as normal =)


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## Norwegian Wood (Jan 12, 2010)

Thats so elegant, I have to try to make some hammergrip style slingshots. I guess that in steel, or aluminium, whit a flat bar as the top section and a round bar as the handle, it would be quite easy to make.


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## baumstamm (Jan 16, 2010)

jörg, u become a woodworking pro!!!


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## JoergS (Dec 17, 2009)

Thanks, Harald.

It is all about handling the power jig saw. I now follow my markings much more precise and there are very little corrections I have to do with rasp and file.

Working with multiplex requires some basic rules. It is easy to get splinters on the outer wood layer when you file down the saw cuts. You have to break the edge first, with a file going from the surface to the cut, not the other way round. If you get a splinter, use epoxy glue and glue it back on as fast as possible. The surface will look ugly if you don't do that.


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## Holzwurm (Nov 5, 2010)

JoergS said:


> Working with multiplex requires some basic rules. It is easy to get splinters on the outer wood layer when you file down the saw cuts. You have to break the edge first, with a file going from the surface to the cut, not the other way round. If you get a splinter, use epoxy glue and glue it back on as fast as possible. The surface will look ugly if you don't do that.


For that reason I don't like working with woodrasps too much(so far only on wooden fishing lures) , I rather prefer to work the sawcuts smooth with a 40 to 80 grit 125mm dia sanding disc chucked into my lathe motor(a power drill chucked in a table clamp would do the job as well) .

A "Dremel" with it's larger coarse sanding drum and later different grit sandpaper fixed onto a sandpaper file are taking care of the final shaping .

Sandpaper file : http://www.kavanrc.com/IndexText/0068G.html

greetz , Holzwurm


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## JoergS (Dec 17, 2009)

My experience is if you want straight edges, a file is still the best tool for the job.


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## The Gopher (Aug 25, 2010)

elegant indeed! looks so good!


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## Holzwurm (Nov 5, 2010)

JoergS said:


> My experience is if you want straight edges, a file is still the best tool for the job.


Surely you're right about that ,......... power tools for grinding require a calm hand to avoid indents or blemishes on the workpiece , but I've become pretty much used to them through years of woodworking on fishing lures , only the fine grade work I do by hand(filing/sanding) .

But every craftsman has his own experiences and preferences , I guess !

greetz , Holzwurm


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## JoergS (Dec 17, 2009)

Have put on Thera Black bands, 14cm x 5cm x 23cm. Wrapped it around the fork ends. Shoots really nice! No fork side tearing. Rubber continues to amaze me, what a material.


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## JoergS (Dec 17, 2009)

Have covered it in three coats of shellac and three coats of polyurethane, it is smooth and glossy.

This picture can not really show the overall appearance - but anyway.










A glossy surface heighlights the grain, btw. That is because most of the light is deflected by the shiny surface, much less light arrives at the wood. Hence, it lools darker.

Jörg


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## Dan the Slingshot Man (Nov 21, 2010)

cool Jeorg. Looks nice to.


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