# Question about using slot as band retention method



## CafeenMan (Jan 8, 2016)

I did a search to find out how wide the slot should be and came across this link that says the slot should be half the thickness of the bands.

http://slingshot-shooting.de/construction/bandframe/bandframe.html

(Scroll down to the Match Stick retention method)

That was my first question. Reading the "Disadvantages" listed gave me a second question.

Before I ask that question, does anyone disagree with that answer for slot thickness? If so then what's a better answer?

Second question:

The con is, "Fork ends often obstruct the view to the target."

Is there any reason why I can't have the stick in back of the slingshot and wrap the bands around the outside to work the same as a typical TTF setup that's tied on? Then I have a clear line established by the bands.

Thanks,

- Paul

Edited to correct where to scroll to on linked page.


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## Peter Recuas (Mar 6, 2014)

Hi my friend, I could tell you better tie the bands or make a top slot but that's not what you are asking, so . . .

Is there any reason why I can't have the stick in back of the slingshot and wrap the bands around the outside to work the same as a typical TTF setup that's tied on?

R: that's the best solution, besides that way you reduce the slippage of the band thanks to the extra friction.

regarding gape of the slot, the bands can be stretched to 500% and may decrease its thickness to 1/5 of the original, for a wider groove you can use tar to increase friction or use more layers of latex to fit the groove and prevent slipping, you'll know just experimenting, thats the way many of us have learned new and best ways to improve our hobby.

The lazy man works twice . . . But maybe invent something new

Good luck and take care


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## CafeenMan (Jan 8, 2016)

Thanks, Peter.

I have a Bernes miniature table saw and have some very thin slitting saw blades for it. Those blades are made for machinists, not for wood-working. When used with wood of any thickness beyond veneer they burn the wood but they will work as long as I work my way to the end depth through multiple cuts - e.g. a LOT of cuts.

So I can cut a slot as thin as 1/32" if I want to and make it dead perpendicular to the end of the forks. That's the way I would do it but of course I would make some test cuts first.

I'm really liking the Van Helsing slingshot by Tom Kretschemer.


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## Viper010 (Apr 21, 2012)

CafeenMan said:


> Thanks, Peter.
> 
> I have a Bernes miniature table saw and have some very thin slitting saw blades for it. Those blades are made for machinists, not for wood-working. When used with wood of any thickness beyond veneer they burn the wood but they will work as long as I work my way to the end depth through multiple cuts - e.g. a LOT of cuts.
> 
> ...


I wish I had a little table saw like that man... I have my first yew natural in the sanding stages now... Wanting to do the top slots, but very very fearful of screwing it up after some twenty hours of carving...

I think I'm gonna save up for one of those fine Japanese pull saws. Thinking that'll be my best bet on a limited budget.

As for the width of the slots... I think anything between 1 and 2 mm (1/25-1/12") should work, as long as it's sanded nice and smooth inside. 
The real retention comes not from the slot, but from the little roll of latex stuck in the borehole at the bottom of the slot.


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## CafeenMan (Jan 8, 2016)

I'm very lucky that my hobby pays for itself, Viper. I never thought I'd be able to afford the tools I have now but I came up with a tool that I did a How-To on my site and was giving away the plan for. People kept asking me to make it for them so it became a small business for me and because of that I ended up with a very well-equipped shop.

I don't understand what you're talking about when you say "small roll of latex". ???


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## Viper010 (Apr 21, 2012)

With the top slots, a small hole (2-3mm) is drilled at the bottom of the slot. 
To fasten the bands, you roll up the end of the band (the little roll of latex comes into being here), stretch it, insert through the slot into the drilled hole. When you let go of the band, the latex retracts and the thickness expands, so it's nice n snug n secure.


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## CafeenMan (Jan 8, 2016)

Thanks. I'd have to see it. That's a different method than the one I referenced in my first post, right?


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## CafeenMan (Jan 8, 2016)

This is it?

http://slingshotforum.com/topic/14592-the-ott-no-tie-no-tools-band-attachment-method/


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## Viper010 (Apr 21, 2012)

Yes, sorry, my bad... It's in deed a different configuration than match stick slots. A little more difficult to make, also, I think.

But I think it's one of the cleanest looking band attachments. Changing bands is very quick, and no tools or tiny components that can fall in the grass when you're swapping band sets in the field.


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## CafeenMan (Jan 8, 2016)

I like it. I just like TTF better. Seems a more natural way to shoot a slingshot to me - like a way a slingshot wants to be shot. I'm a complete novice shooter. I haven't even shot the slingshot I just finished yet except to fire one cigarette butt with it because I haven't built a backstop yet and I live in a residential neighborhood. The butt was on the ground so I picked it up and fired it. I'm pretty sure the blade of grass it hit was mortally injured. 

I do plan to carry a few extra sticks for the matchstick method so if I do drop one or four in the weeds I won't be up the creek.


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