# Received Pocket Predator Seal Sniper Poly Today.



## gonene1 (May 24, 2015)

I Received Pocket Predator Seal Sniper Poly Today.

Until now i was using only wrist braced slingshots.

before today I did not believe that a regular slingshot can be more comfortable and easy to hold than a wrist braced slingshot.

But i stand corrected , this slingshot is so much more easy to hold, and i felt no stress on my hand.

when i used the lanyard that was attached to it , i could even hold it with just two fingers.

It is very light and nice looking , there where no steal balls in the package but i did find that one indestructible target was added in the shipment for free.

It was the first time i used flat bands as well...

here i must say , that the bands felt like a 1745 tube , more or less the same pull, easy to draw as the 1745, and if felt like the same speed.

I can't verify the speed , but it's really not an issue for me , as long as it hits on the target i am happy no matter if it gets there at 200fps or 150fps.

about accuracy , we all know this slingshot is very accurate , but again if i talk about the flat bands , they where harder to aim correctly.

because the flats are wide and to the eye the higher band will look larger then the lower band , i found that the bands will look like one band even if i tilt the slingshot 2mm to each side.

with tubes they are so thin that it is harder to miss the place where the bands are exactly one over the other.

even though i never used flats and regular slingshot, i managed to hit a soda can consistently from 10m (after about 10 practice shots)

The slingshot has a universal fork but i think i will just attach a tube to it as you'd attach a regular flat band.

I see no reason to start cutting my own flat bands when i can just cut tubes to the proper length with a pair of scissors.

All in all, i love this slingshot , though i would use it with tubes rather then with flats .

It arrived in about two weeks , which it the average time for any order to get from the US to Israel.

PS: About the lanyard , before i tried it i was afraid that a lanyard will cut into my hand, but it was like it wasn't there at all.

It was even better than the wrist brace slingshot , because the wrist brace on my older slingshot was fixed to one place where it stop. and with the lanyard, you can make it shorter or longer to fit to your individual hand just the way you like it.


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## Imperial (Feb 9, 2011)

pics or it didnt happen


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## gonene1 (May 24, 2015)

Maybe tomorrow , I'll attach 1745 single tube to it and take some photos , perhaps also a video if i get the time.


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## treefork (Feb 1, 2010)

Congratulations ! Excellent choice .


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## bigron (Nov 29, 2012)

there is a reason he sells so many they are awesome


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## oldmiser (Jan 22, 2014)

Nice slingshot that sealsniper..you will have hours of great joy shooting..Best too you~AKAOldmiser


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## gonene1 (May 24, 2015)

OK i don't understand how to properly attach a tube to this slingshot .

I made a band set with a single (one per side) 1842 tube .

when i try to attach it like a regular band it just slips (not enough contact area with the tie band .

if i loop it , it falls one of the hole and also needs to straighten for each shot so there is an equal length of band for each side of the loop.

I can't get the consistency that i got with the flat bands or that consistency that i have with tubes in a native to tube slingshot (ball in tube attachment) .

I get some very accurate shots but also many flyers , when i had almost none with my old tube slingshot.

I am sure that the tube is not properly attached to the frame . as a single it just slips and detach from the frame, if connected as loops it slips sideways and i can't get the middle of the tube in the middle of the fork had, get unequal tension, and flyers.

I just don't understand how to make this slingshot work with a single 1842 tube set :-(

Maybe i should drill a hole through the middle of the fork ?


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## JediMike (Jan 1, 2015)

Just buy some bands bro, they;re usually about 1/3 the price of tubes anyway...


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## oldmiser (Jan 22, 2014)

Ok for tying a tube set~~~first make a couple wraps with a strip of your elastic band materail..(this give some thing to help hold the tubing

from slipping)after you wrap the fork a couple times..now lay your tube over the material on your fork& wrap the tube set real tight

then tie it...do the same on the other fork..That should work better for you..~AKAOldmiser


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## calinb (Apr 4, 2015)

gonene1 said:


> if i talk about the flat bands , they where harder to aim correctly.
> because the flats are wide and to the eye the higher band will look larger then the lower band , i found that the bands will look like one band even if i tilt the slingshot 2mm to each side.
> with tubes they are so thin that it is harder to miss the place where the bands are exactly one over the other.


The bands don't need to be exactly one over the other. The important thing with lining up the bands and your sight picture is consistency. You can very accurately line up the left edges of the top and bottom bands or the right edges of the bands, or you can try to line-up their centers (which is difficult, as you've noted). It's up to you. The slingshot will still shoot fine regardless, as long as you do it consistently. Using the right edges will give you a parallax shift in one direction and using the left edges will give you a parallax shift in the other direction. I often use the parallax shift to my advantage, even! You can try it too. If your point of impact (POI) is left of the bullseye, try lining up the right edges of the bands. If your POI is right of the bulleye, try lining up the left edges of the bands. I like to first decide whether to align the right or left edge (whichever gets me closer to the bullseye) then I "move" my "front sight" aim point (the center of the band or "lollypop" stick, as Bill Hays calls it). If you are aiming using the the center of the top band on your target and the POI is still to one side or the other, just note where the POI is on the band and draw a line on the band with a ball point pen to coincide with the POI. After shooting a few rounds to establish a POI "group," you can just draw the bands, and aim at the bullseye, while noting where the POI falls. That's the point on the bands (or whatever reference on the SS that you wish to use) that you'll want to use as your "front sight" aim point. Done! You and your SS are now "zero-ed-in." The other thing you can change is your anchor point (moving it right or left) but I like to pick a very definitive anchor point and change what I use on the slingshot or bands as my "front sight" to move my POI.



gonene1 said:


> PS: About the lanyard , before i tried it i was afraid that a lanyard will cut into my hand, but it was like it wasn't there at all.
> It was even better than the wrist brace slingshot , because the wrist brace on my older slingshot was fixed to one place where it stop. and with the lanyard, you can make it shorter or longer to fit to your individual hand just the way you like it.


I'm a dedicated fan of a tight match sling for rifles and a tight lanyard for SSs! I have my SS lanyards so tight that 550 paracord does bite in a bit much. I run a string through tubing and use it to pull the 550 cord through the tubing. The tubing grips my wrist better than bare 550 paracord and it improves my comfort. (I cut up my yellow Daisy SS bands for this purpose! ) I have some Black Dankung 40-70 tubing on order from Dankung to use as lanyard cushions, but I have been waiting one month and it turns out the 40-70 is backordered. I have also made some Cobra knotted lanyards, which are very secure and also very comfortable, because they are quite wide. I think you probably saw my bi-color green cobra knot lanyard (attached to my aluminum PP side shooter) on my band (cheapskate) re-use thread.


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## calinb (Apr 4, 2015)

gonene1 said:


> Maybe i should drill a hole through the middle of the fork ?


I think oldmiser suggested a great solution (I plan to try it with my Seal Sniper and some tubes too) but, if you want to use the configuration you're accustomed to shooting (ball in tube attachment) then a hole at about the midpoint of the TTF/OTF flatband tie groove looks about right to me too.

I've been shooting my new Torque with looped (Chinese) tubes recently and I agree that sometimes the tubes are a bit of a pain to re-position after a shot. (I haven't tried The Torque with flatbands yet and I haven't tried my Seal Sniper with tubes.) Unfortunately all the thumb bracing I've been doing with The Torque and my Seal Sniper has my arthritis acting up in my thumb so I'm going to go back to shooting my ergo pinch/choke grip designs from Bill Hays for awhile.


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## gonene1 (May 24, 2015)

OK after i played with if for a couple of hours, I found a quite easy way to attach the tube to the fork.

it is also very accurate and secure IMO.

I am uploading a video for it now, i showed how i do it, and after that go do some shooting with it.

(My English in speech is not as good as my writing , i am reading and writing in English all the time , but never speak it, strangely enough The words don't come to me when i speak.)

I also attaching a step by step photos , of screens from the video .

here is the video

this is the first video tutorial that i made so i am sorry if i took the slingshot out of the picture from time to time.

if you still don't see it then give it some time for youtube to finish processing it , upload now is only at 80% BTW


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## calinb (Apr 4, 2015)

gonene1 said:


> here is the video


Thanks for sharing, gonene2! It looks like your tie method and the Seal Sniper are working very well for you!


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## gonene1 (May 24, 2015)

You're welcome calinb , it does work well for me , but it should take some repetition to make it fast and snappy, as you might have noticed in the video, the first time i made the "little lasso" i thought i made it the wrong way, even at the second time i was not sure it was just as i made it before the video.

I needed that "little lasso" without twisting the tube around backwards , but i think it came out fine this time as well.

Now i need to learn how to make it soot a bit higher.

my shots get just about an inch or 1.5inches too low. but if i raise the slingshot the fork blocks my view of the target.

I guess I'll have to get accustomed to a lower anchor point for this slingshot .


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## calinb (Apr 4, 2015)

gonene1 said:


> Now i need to learn how to make it soot a bit higher.
> my shots get just about an inch or 1.5inches too low. but if i raise the slingshot the fork blocks my view of the target.
> I guess I'll have to get accustomed to a lower anchor point for this slingshot .


You can also try either lighter ammo or stronger bands. My most accurate anchor points are on the side of my mouth. I can use the side of my upper lip, lower lip, or the corner of my mouth (centered between the other two). Depending on how you hold the pouch, you might also try to vary which part of your fingers you anchor. For example, for the highest POI, I would anchor my thumb (above the pouch/ball) on the side of my lower lip. If I use my index finger (below the pouch/ball) as the reference, the POI goes lower. I've done quite a bit of shooting with my ear lobe as an anchor point and it does not afford me a variety of definitive anchor points. It also requires me to tilt my head. How much I tilt my head changes the POI so you might want to experiment with the longer pull to your ear with the Seal Sniper too, if you haven't already.

It's likely that you've already figured this sort of thing out for yourself. It seems we are both pursuing the same aimed style of shooting, which I believe is the fast track to good accuracy, compared to "instinctive" shooting. Speed or "near-instinctive" capabilities will come in time (maybe after a few years of practice )!


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## gonene1 (May 24, 2015)

The tilt of the head.

I never took it into consideration this can explain much of the variation that i get while i believe that i am using the same anchor point , when in fact by the tilt i change it a bit all the time.

I'll try different anchor points though with my older sling there is a sight that allows the shooter to raise the aim without blocking the view of the target.

I was wondering if there is a way Bill might one day make a custom with a sight inside the fork , or an area in the mid of the fork made of transparent material. (if so I'd like this custom slingshot to also come with a magazine ball dispenser in the handle. )

I think instinctive shooting is better for hunters where reaction time should be minimal.

They also need to hit targets which are sometimes 3-4m away , some 10m some 15m 20m 25m and some are moving targets.

instinctive shooting or intuitive aiming has many advantages even if it costs the hunters some accuracy .


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## Oneproudmeximan (May 20, 2013)

my very first slingshot was a small seal sniper took tons of game with that thing ended up retiring it sold it to oldmiser hear its serving him well hope your new seal sniper serves you as well as mine did to me.


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## calinb (Apr 4, 2015)

gonene1 said:


> The tilt of the head.
> I never took it into consideration this can explain much of the variation that i get while i believe that i am using the same anchor point , when in fact by the tilt i change it a bit all the time.


The human body is very good at maintaining a straight and upright head position, but it's not very good at finding and maintaining a consistent head tilt angle. Hence, you might find a training aid that I devised to be useful when shooting with your head tilted (which is almost a requirement to pull beyond one's mouth or cheek while still aiming a shot). Stick a thin line of black electrical tape at an angle in the upper corner of your safety glasses (on your dominant / sighting eye side only). It will take a bit of trial and error to position the narrow line of tape but the idea is to use the tape as a reference against the horizon or other level objects in your field of view. The tape will not appear as a sharply focused line, because of its proximity to your eye, but it will be visible as a shadow. I have also used translucent Kapton tape and drawn the line on it with a Sharpie felt tip pen. Perhaps the Sharpie pen method works works best, because it is not opaque. With either implementation, you can tilt you head to make and keep the edge of the shadow level. By adjusting and re-sticking the tape and experimenting, you'll see that head tilt makes a dramatic difference in POI! Find the amount of tilt you need and shoot with the tape in the same position for a while. After a time (probably a long time), you will likely learn to accurately duplicate the desired head tilt and position without the tape.


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## calinb (Apr 4, 2015)

gonene1 said:


> I was wondering if there is a way Bill might one day make a custom with a sight inside the fork , or an area in the mid of the fork made of transparent material.


I forgot to mention that you actually can sight right through your opaque forks, but you'll have to adopt the Bindon Aiming Concept (BAC / both eyes open shooting) to do it. Not everyone seems to be successful with BAC but I think it can be learned by most people with practice. Speed is the usual motivation for using BAC but it gives you x-ray vision too! 

http://www.trijicon.com/na_en/company/unique_to_trijicon.php

Cut some thin strips of white tape (to contrast with your black Seal Sniper) to stick on your SS and make a crosshair where you need one. Like this Taurus curve pistol, which doesn't even have a complete crosshair figure on the back of the slide, because of the slide and frame architecture, yet this is the pistol's only mechanical "fixed" sight and shooters can be quite accurate in aiming it using BAC and the painted whited crosshairs, but without the built-in laser sight):

http://www.taurususa.com/images/imagesMain/Taurus-Curve-180CRV-6.jpg
http://www.taurususa.com/product-details.cfm?id=901&category=Pistol&toggle=&breadcrumbseries=

Your dominant eye will not see the target but your non-dominant eye supplies the image and your brain puts it all together (at least if it works well for you). You can practice obtaining the useful visual effect by focusing on the crosshairs with your dominant eye only and then alternately opening and closing your non-dominant eye. You should try to hold the crosshair in focus with you dominant eye but trick your brain into accepting the image from your other eye without a parallax shift occurring when you open your non-dominant eye (which would look like the crosshair jumping far away from the intended target hold point). Hopefully, your brain will "lock" onto the crosshair but "blend" the image of the target into your sight picture. Hopefully my explanation makes sense to you but there are many discussions of BAC online in firearms forums, if you care to research the technique.

As another example, when I hunt using this sight and keep both of my eyes open (BAC), the reticle does not block my image of the target at all, as depicted here:
https://seeallopensight.com/about/instructions/

The black triangle reticle and green background are opaque, but my other, non-dominant eye supplies the visual image that's covered by the opaque sight.

I normally shoot all weapons with both of my eyes open, which may or may not work for you, but you might want to try it and try to train your brain to use information from both eyes. I have a theory that shooters who don't shoot well with BAC, despite their attempts and practice, do not have a strongly dominant eye but they are in the minority.


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## gonene1 (May 24, 2015)

How could you forget to mention this?

I forgot to mention that you actually can sight right through your opaque forks, but you'll have to adopt the Bindon Aiming Concept (BAC / both eyes open shooting) to do it. Not everyone seems to be successful with BAC but I think it can be learned by most people with practice. Speed is the usual motivation for using BAC but it gives you x-ray vision too! 

I have encountered posts about both eyes open , but they did not made it clear , why would someone want to aim with both eyes open.

I disregarded this way (both eyes open shooting) and considered it relevant for instinctive shooting rougher than for aimed shooting.

I apologize that i took so long to reply, but believe me that all day long i could not get your suggestion out of my had, I was with my family at the mall and could not use my slingshot, but kept pointing my finger at various "targets" like aiming BAC, and my wife kept asking me if everything is ok with me, i bet she thought i started to go mad.

when we got back i just waited for a window to go out and test it with the slingshot.

finally after the sun set, i was left with just a bit of twilight and i had 5 minuets to test this BAC shooting for real. (i don't keep my seal sniper at the house , also my wife thinks i bought just one slingshot , she does not know that in the last couple of months i actually bought 4.)

anyway , i went out to tested this idea and... wow wow wow wow wow....

EPIPHANY !!!

when i started shooting a couple of months ago, i did not know how to wink , i did not know how to close my left eye and keep my right eye open.

It took me a lot of practice to be able to do so without much effort.

Now I am sure that with some practice I'll be able to shoot with both eyes open and get x-ray vision !

I am going to draw a sight on the seal sniper's opaque fork tip , and just aim through it. this is f**king amazing !

I must try another thing that has to do with the tilt of the head.

When i keep both eyes open i get a double image of the fork.

but when i keep both eyes open and also tilt my had i get the left image of the fork higher then the right.

I could also draw a diagonal line on the fork , that when tilting the head , will create a one line (gaped yet continuous diagonal line).

I just tried it with my finger, and it works.

now it's just a matter of finding the best angle for the tilt.

calinb i really appreciate the time that you put in helping me.

There are so many people here willing to help and give advise, and you are the one person here from whom I learned the most.

I think this BAC / both eyes open shooting should get a separate topic and be pinned , so anyone can learn about it.

Thanks and another WOW...

you totally blew my mind with these last couple of posts here.


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## calinb (Apr 4, 2015)

gonene1 said:


> When i keep both eyes open i get a double image of the fork.
> but when i keep both eyes open and also tilt my had i get the left image of the fork higher then the right.
> I could also draw a diagonal line on the fork , that when tilting the head , will create a one line (gaped yet continuous diagonal line).
> I just tried it with my finger, and it works.
> now it's just a matter of finding the best angle for the tilt.


It makes me very happy to hear that you are leveraging the techniques I've talked about here and adapting them to your own needs and style, gonene1! When I became an FAA certificated flight instructor (CFI) about thirty years ago, I learned about the four levels of learning:

1) Rote
2) Understanding
3) Application
4) Correlation

You are obviously operating in the more advanced stages 3 and 4 already!

There are many learnings from the other shooting sports that can be applied to shooting slingshots. Another one that Bill Hays covers in his video is the natural point of aim (though he doesn't call it that, as I recall, and he uses a stick as an aid). If you were in the U.S., I'd highly recommend attending an Appleseed event and working to earn your "Rifleman" patch. www.appleseedinfo.org There is no better shooting program anywhere and even the military guys get a lot out of it. (Isn't everyone in Israel military trained?) It's a bargain. My wife had never even touched a firearm in her life and she had her Rifleman patch after four weekends of dedicated training (but it's really fun too). After that, she signed-up for a weekly women's handgun class and completed that program too. I was the baby sitter for our daughter while she learned to shoot and then I completed the Appleseed program too. I've been fairly involved in firearms training the last few years of my life and I founded this company with a buddy of mine from my airline pilot days:
www.smartfirearm.us

I sold my half of the company to him at the end of last year, but still do engineering consulting.

Now that I think about it, if you ever find yourself in the NW U.S. I'll loan you a rifle to shoot at an Appleseed.

Thanks for your kind words too and don't worry about the slight delay in your response. I wrote the last one late last night and we all have lives outside of this forum (I hope )!


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## gonene1 (May 24, 2015)

calinb said:


> (Isn't everyone in Israel military trained?)


Well almost everyone...

when i was young, at 18 i had some huge morality issues regarding the Israeli army (actually i am 42 now and i still do, even more so).

I am not so sure that "IDF - Israel Defense Forces" is the right name for the Israeli army.

But this is something that one day we might talk about in private, you and I .


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## calinb (Apr 4, 2015)

gonene1 said:


> calinb said:
> 
> 
> > (Isn't everyone in Israel military trained?)
> ...


I would love to do so and a PM or perhaps a chat over a beer or coffee someday would be best as it's off topic here anyway. But I will state here that I also spend a lot of time in liberty and philosophy forums. I'm a staunch believer in the non-aggression principle (NAP) and I can envision future generations' societies that will (hopefully) be based upon its widespread adoption.

"That government is best which governs not at all; and when men are
prepared for it, that will be the kind of government which they will
have." -- Henry David Thoreau


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## calinb (Apr 4, 2015)

It seems that PocketPredator poly Seal Snipers no longer come with this thumb grip divot/scallop:

http://pocketpredator.com/gallery/x130.jpg

or in G10:

http://pocketpredator.com/gallery/x133.jpg

Instead, they look like the one in this thread:

http://slingshotforum.com/topic/41346-seal-sniper-from-bill-hayes/#entry511861

I can understand how the labor cost to make it would be high on a $25 SS! Hence, I cut the thumb grip scallop myself using this cutting tool on my Dremel:









I used high speed on the tool but used very light strokes, which results in shaving the HDPE to a nice finish. Then I sanded it by hand with sandpaper to give the slippery HDPE a little bit of grip. I love the extra support that it provides to my thumb brace and I'll probably cut it even deeper, after I shoot it for a while to be sure that I want it to be deeper!

Oh yeah--I did the other side to match too.


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## calinb (Apr 4, 2015)

Deleted--double post.


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## Njones (Jan 27, 2015)

calinb said:


> It seems that PocketPredator poly Seal Snipers no longer come with this thumb grip divot/scallop:
> http://pocketpredator.com/gallery/x130.jpg
> 
> or in G10:
> ...


yeah I noticed that too. That's my shooter in the Linc there. I was a little disappointed when I got it but Im ok with it now. I love it. Very good slingshot.

Njones


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## gonene1 (May 24, 2015)

calinb said:


> It seems that PocketPredator poly Seal Snipers no longer come with this thumb grip divot/scallop:
> 
> http://pocketpredator.com/gallery/x130.jpg
> 
> ...


nicely done, this looks like it came that way.

Yah nine came that way too, but i am not sure which is better, because it is the most comfortable slingshot that I ever used, just as it is, without the thumb tent.


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