# DIY slingshot Dueling Tree design idea collaboration.



## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

Ok guys, designers , engineers, tinkerers, come one, come all. This thread is for sharing ideas and testing design elements to develop a DIY slingshot dueling tree. Let's keep it focused and create a design that is fun and easily repeatable. This idea was born here. http://slingshotforum.com/topic/36984-saco-2-by-saunders-archery/


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

Thanks a lot....there goes my free time tomorrow :neener: :rofl: .


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

Here is a start by Rayshot from the aforementioned thread.

I am still running construction methods and details through my head, perhaps like the targets Todd made for the tourney we can share ideas and come up with an easy effective DIY dualing tree. I'll start.

One architectural aspect that can be employed is that the tower leans forward some so the target will fully set forward. I can think of issues that may be related to the lean that would have to be assessed whether the DIY can stay simple enough to not be hampered due to the lean.


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## JonM (Aug 17, 2013)

My .22 dueling tree has 3 spikes in order to keep it stable & standing. It pins thru holes in the base, landscape spikes would also work. I like the idea of a ramped rotation opposed to springs for tension.


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

I have been thinking about theses for a while and it seems to me the idea that the paddles have to go from one side to the other is more movement than necessary. I have been thinking that if the 2 target arms were made at a 90 degree angle and pivoted at the join, each paddle would only have to travel half the distance rather than requiring enough force to knock it all of the away around.


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

As for helping the targets to face forward, if a pipe nipple is used as a means of allowing the target to swivel, the pipe can be cut at an angle. Then gravity will take over and help the target to face forward. The trick will be finding the right amount of angle for all variables. It if it too steep, then light bands might not get the target to move to the other side, and if it's not enough, then the target could stop half way around or, if heavy bands are used, come back to the original side.

It's possible that instead of pipe, pvc might be used. I'll try to do some testing tomorrow and see if it will hold up.









Magnets could be used to help hold the target in place, but it's another cost and more of a hassle to build.

Todd


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

They have started putting those angles on the hinges for doors that want to be self closing. we have sme at work. I'll see if I can check the angle.


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

flipgun said:


> They have started putting those angles on the hinges for doors that want to be self closing. we have sme at work. I'll see if I can check the angle.


 if you could take some pictures that may be helpful.


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

Beanflip said:


> flipgun said:
> 
> 
> > They have started putting those angles on the hinges for doors that want to be self closing. we have sme at work. I'll see if I can check the angle.
> ...


Will see what I can do.


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## EddieCar (Jun 30, 2010)

I believe the reason for the angle on a dueling tree is meant to minimize ricochets.

There is a mechanism built into the pivot that helps to keep the plate from rebounding back.

For the target I am trying something new to me that might work.

I got a thick piece of thick leather cut it into circles and backed it with a thin piece of sheet metal and covered it with duck tape.

The jury is still out on the targets. I want to see how they hold up.


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## Wingshooter (Dec 24, 2009)

This is what I am thinking about. The top piece where the target is attached will be a pvc 90. If I can find the right sizes for the pipe stand and pvc I may see if this will work. I am sure the trick will be to get the swells between the upper and lower piece of pvc at the right angle so they will rotate that will be trial and error.


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

Wingshooter said:


> This is what I am thinking about. The top piece where the target is attached will be a pvc 90. If I can find the right sizes for the pipe stand and pvc I may see if this will work. I am sure the trick will be to get the swells between the upper and lower piece of pvc at the right angle so they will rotate that will be trial and error.


That's a great start Wingshooter! 3/4" cpvc may fit inside 3/4" PVC fittings fairly well and allow them to rotate.


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

Here is one option.

3/4" Cts (copper tube size) CPVC OD .875
3/4" SDR 21 PVC pipe Avg. ID .91
I found these in the garage. 














Maybe a 3/4 tee would work as the moving part to attach the flipper target to.


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## Cjw (Nov 1, 2012)

I think I'll just buy one of the SACO 2 by Saunders. I don't have the time to build something . Rather spend the time shooting.


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)




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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

Cjw said:


> I think I'll just buy one of the SACO 2 by Saunders. I don't have the time to build something . Rather spend the time shooting.


 .
Thanks anyway. We will press forward and develop something we can all produce inexpensively.


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## Cjw (Nov 1, 2012)

I think it's great you guys are doing it. But with work and my 10 meter club just don't have the time.


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

What is everyone thinking for target size? My first thought is a 3" circle with a 1" to 1 1/2" wide strip. The strip extending the target 3" away from where it attaches to the tee. I would rather see some kind of thinner rod to attach the target, but that would leave a nut on one side that could cause wild ricochets.

I'll have to get some more belting and do some playing.









Sorry...I'm not much of an artist


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

This fitting, instead of the tee, would provide a space to add some weight opposite the flipper. ( like the SACO)


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## erniepc1 (Jun 7, 2014)

2 targets mounted at 90' degrees to each other on the same collar. Target would only have to move 90' to make the other target show on the opposite side. just my 2cents.


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

GrayWolf said:


> What is everyone thinking for target size? My first thought is a 3" circle with a 1" to 1 1/2" wide strip. The strip extending the target 3" away from where it attaches to the tee. I would rather see some kind of thinner rod to attach the target, but that would leave a nut on one side that could cause wild ricochets.
> 
> I'll have to get some more belting and do some playing.
> 
> ...


 That's a good drawing Graywolf. 
I think the arm between target and the pivot could be more substantial because it could be covered by the post. ?


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

Beanflip said:


> That's a good drawing Graywolf.
> I think the arm between target and the pivot could be more substantial because it could be covered by the post. ?


That leads to the next question(s)...what material for the post, and how wide. For use with a hand gun, the post would be angle iron and most likely 1/4" thick. That would be overkill for us. Looking at the Saco 2...it looks like it's about 12" wide. A 2 x 12 will definitely add weight and stability and easy to mount into an H style base, similar to the one for the cowbell target at the MWST.


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

http://weaponcollector.blogspot.ca/2012/03/how-to-make-resetting-air-rifle-pistol.html






Cheers ..... Charles


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

Okay. I borrowed wingshooter's fine illustration to show what I was talking about.









By adding another paddle to the swing collar, each paddle only has to got through 90 degrees of rotation instead of 180.

Top view.









Also, if the paddles are at a slight angle, the shots will be directed down and the impact would lift the pad to help get it over the connector angle.

Or so I think. :twocents:


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

Here is a suggestion for a horizontal orientation, instead of a vertical one. Have a look at the following video:






Put a number, say 10, of theses in a row ... divided by a marker down the middle, 5 to each side. Two contestants line up. The event is timed. Each contestant tries to knock down his own targets AND reset the opposition targets. At the end of the time (perhaps one minute) the one with the most targets down is the winner. Instead of timing it, you could provide each contestant a fixed number of pieces of ammo ... when both sides are out of ammo, the contest ends.

Or you could decide that the first to get all 5 of his/her targets down at once is the winner. Thus in addition to working on your own, you will have to try to prevent the opposition from getting all 5 down at once. If you wanted to be nasty, you could just reset the opposition target every time a target was knocked down ... could last a loooong time!!!

So in any case, there is a bit of strategy ... knock down my own, or reset the competition???

This type of target seems to me to be much easier to build than a vertical tree.

Cheers ... Charles


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

Here is more along the lines of what I have been thinking.....but with lighter targets.






The target attachment is very easy. Pvc could even be duct taped to the angle iron to save money. It wouldn't be pretty, but it could be effective.

Todd


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## Jack739 (May 30, 2013)

Really nice!! i dig the idea with the two targets on a 90° angle, that can swing from one side to the other. Maybe add a small magnet on the swinging arm, that holds the target in place.









What do you think about drilling two holes in a target and tighten it with bolts and nuts on the swinging arm? So if a target breaks we dont have to build a new swinging arm, only a new target?

Errrm like so? :blink:









"armend" means arm-end


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

Great ideas everyone! Keep it up!


GrayWolf said:


> Here is more along the lines of what I have been thinking.....but with lighter targets.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The simplicity of this design is very appealing. I think the length of the arm and the type of material used, could be altered to "tune" the design.


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

Using the metal swing arm and attaching the conveyor belt material like in the drawing, hits on the bolts and nuts should be kept to a minimum.


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## scheme-sport (May 6, 2014)

Good luck
Guys....

There is a device in the UK for air rifles.... It's called "the plinkshot duelling tree"....

A lot taller than the ones yous are showing and have a lot more/smaller targets.

May help somebody.


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

scheme-sport said:


> Good luck
> Guys....
> 
> There is a device in the UK for air rifles.... It's called "the plinkshot duelling tree"....
> ...


I contacted Plink-Shot about a month ago because the price is pretty good. The only problem is that the shipping was a lot more than the dueling tree price.


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## Wingshooter (Dec 24, 2009)

I have taken some of the ideas and incorporated them in my tree. I eliminated the pipe stand and just drilled a hole in the plywood base. The top part of the swing attachment will be a tee and I think I have seen them with a threaded I/2 opening. I think I will use the 2 inch webbing I have from the army surplus store it lasts forever. I will move the piece in front back as close as I can get it to protect the swinging mechanism and where it bolts to the extension so all that shows is the target itself. By putting a simple wedge under the rear of the plywood base you can tilt it forward slightly. The front protection piece will take abuse but if it gets to bad you can replace it simple enough it is held in place with 4 screws. I wanted to keep to the simple cheap (ugh) inexpensive model that can be built with hand tools and all parts from the local home center. I hope to have a working model in a few days I am down in the back right now so have to take it easy for a while.
3/4" Cts (copper tube size) CPVC OD .875
3/4" SDR 21 PVC pipe Avg. ID .91
This is just what I need.


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## ryguy27 (Nov 8, 2013)

flipgun said:


> Okay. I borrowed wingshooter's fine illustration to show what I was talking about.
> Target tree.png
> By adding another paddle to the swing collar, each paddle only has to got through 90 degrees of rotation instead of 180.
> Top view.
> ...


I Like The Idea Of The 90 Degree Rotation, But With Wingshooter's "Hills And Valleys" System, A 90 Degree Turn Would End Up With Two Hills Together Instead Of A Hill And A Valley. That Would Mean That With Only 90 Degrees Instead Of The Full 180 It Would Rise Up, But Then Bounce Back To The Beginning Again. I Hope I Made Sense With The Whole Hills And Valleys Description.


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

A quick mock up for testing. Without any provisions to assist the target to complete the flip and or remain upon flipping, it showed promise. Worked sometimes and sometimes not. 














I cut the flipper out with care only that it would wedge into the CPVC. I cut a slice off a CPVC fitting to top the pipe and provide a surface for the PVC ton ride on. The slice of fitting was a little bigger OD than the PVC pipe so I spaced it off the pole with a scrap of belting. I had a one hole strap for conduit so I used it to mount.


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## oldmiser (Jan 22, 2014)

Your mock up looks ok..you may want to bevel the tan pipe say 45* degrees...on the flag post going in to the pipe..

you may want to sand the edges ..just to knock off the corners...that may help to spin more freely.....Hey but what do I know..Nothing~AKAOldmiser


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## ash (Apr 23, 2013)

The larger the diameter of the pivot, the more friction there will be. The pivot could be as simple as a 6" nail and would allow the target to rotate more freely.


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)




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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

Beanflip said:


> A quick mock up for testing. Without any provisions to assist the target to complete the flip and or remain upon flipping, it showed promise. Worked sometimes and sometimes not.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Beanflip....that is a good start!

Here is an unproven (I haven't had a chance to get to the hardware store) idea....









Cut all the way through the larger diameter pipe at an angel...I don't think more than a 20 or 25 degree angle is needed...then cut the top piece only at the same angle from the opposite side, creating a V. That will allow the target to rise then fall into place on the other side.

The bottom of the V may need to be rounded a little bit to help the target turn easier and not tear up the plastic.

Todd


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## oldmiser (Jan 22, 2014)

ash said:


> The larger the diameter of the pivot, the more friction there will be. The pivot could be as simple as a 6" nail and would allow the target to rotate more freely.


Yes your are correct..I had a no think moment there......OM


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## ryguy27 (Nov 8, 2013)

Beanflip said:


>


It's Looking Good So Far, Keep On Developing!


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## Jack739 (May 30, 2013)

Whay Guys awesome how this Thing gets better and better with every post! Beanflip that looks pretty nice, the flipper runs smoother that i thought!
I still stick with the 90 degree angle target idea, what about adding a second flipper by cutting slots in them and stuck them together? This would add (i think) 2 benefits:
- more surface for the pvc pipe to run eventually even smoother
- reduces the way a target has to move, if it is then hold in place by a small magnet it should work fine imho.

I'll add a drawing later  i have to try this too this weekend!

Keep going, this will turn out very nice!


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

Maybe something like this could be used with an angle cut pipe nipple....

http://www.mcmaster.com/#framing-bracket-connectors/=thhlrf

A target could be connected to the bracket easily....and at this price, I would keep a variety of targets handy to keep thing interesting.

Menards has them in stainless steel, but the price goes up quickly with stainless. They may have sell expensive ones in the store...I'll have to take a look over the weekend.

Todd


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## Jack739 (May 30, 2013)

Okay for the Flippers i thought about this, maybe you can try this Beanflip?









I just give the targets some thoughts and Leon13 and his stuff jumped into my mind!

At a Slingshot meeting at BeMaHoney´s Place he brought some of his targets made from truck tarp and some sort of cloth filling.. i dont know what exactly, but they are really durable and i think i will try to make some and attach them to the flippers.. maybe i can persuade him to send me some of his :naughty:

I think they would make really nice targets, you dont have to attach them at an angle and for the purpose, that they swing around i think they would be awesome!


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

These modifications improved the mock ups operation. The strap over the top is lead. I was trying to get the target to stop at each side more consistently. I need to pick up more pipe tomorrow and some two hole straps. My one hole strap is allowing to much movement.

This test is just the one I wanted to try, please follow your own ideas and share them as well.

View attachment 65721
View attachment 65722


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

These modifications improved the mock ups operation. The strap over the top is lead. I was trying to get the target to stop at each side more consistently. I need to pick up more pipe tomorrow and some two hole straps. My one hole strap is allowing to much movement.

This test is just the one I wanted to try, please follow your own ideas and share them as well.


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

Beanflip said:


> These modifications improved the mock ups operation. The strap over the top is lead. I was trying to get the target to stop at each side more consistently. I need to pick up more pipe tomorrow and some two hole straps. My one hole strap is allowing to much movement.
> 
> This test is just the one I wanted to try, please follow your own ideas and share them as well.
> 
> ...


I'm going to the hardware store tomorrow on my way to work...is this modification worth looking into a little bit farther? If you think it is, I'll pick up some pipe and give it a go. I still have another idea I want to try as well, if I can find the parts.

Todd


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

GrayWolf said:


> Beanflip said:
> 
> 
> > These modifications improved the mock ups operation. The strap over the top is lead. I was trying to get the target to stop at each side more consistently. I need to pick up more pipe tomorrow and some two hole straps. My one hole strap is allowing to much movement.
> ...


 I think so. Tomorrow I hope to shoot a video of how it's working.


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## Montie Gear (Jul 31, 2013)

Nice to see all the collaboration and thoughts


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)




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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

I made a couple adjustments before this next video. I tilted the post forward a little more and I subtracted a little off the angle from the upper portion of the pipe. It wasn't completely reseting to the left. It was working so well after these adjustments I didn't want to stop shooting it.


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

Beanflip said:


> I made a couple adjustments before this next video. I tilted the post forward a little more and I subtracted a little off the angle from the upper portion of the pipe. It wasn't completely reseting to the left. It was working so well after these adjustments I didn't want to stop shooting it.


That's looking really good.


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## Wingshooter (Dec 24, 2009)

I can see where that will be addictive. Looking good.


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## Greavous (Sep 29, 2013)

Just read up on this and I plan to focus on this over the weekend. Looking out the window I see my portable PVC ball catch has been shot to death X2 and is looking worse than the sunburned grass in that corner of the yard. Seems like it hasnt rained in about the same time it hasnt snowed down here and that is almost 30 years. So I need a new catch box and I might as well build that around some interesting target ideas.

Comments thus far...

-Beanflips prototype sure looks not far from a done deal. The addictiveness is surely visible.

-The concept of having two targets at a 90° angle to each other sounds good but it also seem to add weight/mass to the system as well as additional parts. The additional mass would also have to be put into motion by the ammo's kinetic energy (equal and opposite reaction) which could possibly dictate what size ammo you can use and even if it would work well if you moseyed on back to the 20 meter plus zone. With two targets you would rotate the target half as much but as we can see in Mr. Beanflips video, his target isnt having any trouble making the trip left to right. On the plus side of this idea... wear and tear will be reduced by 50% on the targets and we all know there just arent too many targets which hold up to repeated smackoos.

Ill post up what happens.


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## Greavous (Sep 29, 2013)

Well, here is where ive gotten to.

I decided id reuse what I could from the old heap of ball catch out in the yard before I spent any money.

Thus far I used a standard PVC "T" fitting and some pipe (all half inch thus far).

I measured the OD of the 1/2" PVC which was basically 13/16" so I drilled out the straight/long leg of the T fitting with a 7/8" drill bit which makes for a real cozy slip fit. I then used a 3/8" drill bit and made a couple notches along the bottom edge of the T, this is where a 1/4" brass tube will fit into as a positioning pin. I then cut a 1/4" wide strip of PVC and heated that up until limp and then twisted it around the outside of a piece of 1/2" pipe and made a compression spring. The spring pushes the T fitting onto the pin when they align. For now the spring is retained with a bit of a piece of a 90° fitting I cut off to use as a collar. The arm which holds the target was a length of PVC which I heated up until soft and mashed in a vice to flatten the arm. At the end of the arm I drilled a hole and riveted on a couple 2 1/8" diameter leather disks. I chose this size because that is what I always shoot at but in hind-site this should probably be larger as my third shot was dead center elevation wise but about 2" to the right and my first true hit shot off the PVC arm and busted it into bits. SO, PVC is not the material to use for the arms!

Here are a couple food for thought pics for now. I need to come up with a better arm to hold the target (thinking wood fight now) and then back to testing. Please toss in your ideas and or thoughts.


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## Greavous (Sep 29, 2013)

Ok, as I said in the post above the PVC arm was a problem as the steel ammo pulverized its way past it. Think of the US Civil War and all the amputations due to loss of bone. I'll admit to scabbing it back together with some duct tape but the next shot just blew it apart again, the tape just kept the mess together.

I made a new arm using some 1/4" CDX plywood and three layers of veg tan leather. I bumped the diameter up to 3" this time. Been a while since Ive done any saddle stitching and my stitch layout reflects that. Never the less, as you can see in these updated pics I added the arm still uses a stub of PVC pipe to connect to the rotation point (the T). I decided to ziptie this union as Im sure things will change in time.

This shot is the first arm which didnt last at all. Under it is the version 2.0 arm.









Making the arm shorter and the target a bit larger seemed to have sped up the switching side process and more reliable. I had a couple shots where the arm fell short of making it to the other side but this was more to do with my shooting the edge vs. the rig.









Looking from behind. The PVC spring and sliding collar above it has paid off so far. Moving the collar increases or decreases the spring pressure which plays very much into how smooth the arm swaps sides.









I'll setup a camera and shoot some video of how it works tomorrow. Just before I came in I had it dancing from side to side and I can see how much fun several of these will be. I need to build something for a catch box before I shoot at it much more as the ammo is going all over the place as it makes its way into the corner of the fence. I hate not getting my ammo back and that is what is happening every shot right now.


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

I like what you've done there Greavous. Making you're own PVC spring, very ingenious!
I can't wait to see the video.


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## erniepc1 (Jun 7, 2014)

Here's something I found while working on a new catch box, 1/2 inch pvc fittings slide over 1/2 inch steel conduit. ??? I am trying to get a video off my phone to post here in a bit. This may save some work and fit in with the ideas here.


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## Jack739 (May 30, 2013)

Maaan really nice greavous and beanflip! Cant wait to see greavous construction in action. I hope to get into a hardware store soon and build me one too, this works simply too good! 3 of them would make a great competition 

edit: well i think beanflip proved in his vid that one flipper arm performs good enough to reject the two-arm-flipper-idea completly. A two arm flipper would either break appart or bounce uncontrolable from side to side, due to the impact force. So i'll go this way too! With some pvc springs (by the way: totally awesome idea!) we could maybe adjust the resistance of the targets for different ammos and heavy or light bandsets. The leather covered targets shouldnt wear out so fast and if the construction runs as smooth as beanflips, but without the need to set it up in an angle, there are great options for ugrading this. i should hit the hay..


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## erniepc1 (Jun 7, 2014)

I haven't learned how to paste a video here yet so





 will take you to a short video on my channel that will show more info.

Not sure how but it is showing in the preview so here goes.


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## erniepc1 (Jun 7, 2014)

I forgot to add that the arms from the pvc fittings to the targets could be pieces of a broomstick cut to length and slotted on the end to take targets like Greavous made. Should last longer than pvc arms.

I haven't learned how to paste a video here yet so





 will take you to a short video on my channel that will show more info.

Not sure how but it is showing in the preview so here goes.

Oh. and for the leather circles, instead of sewing or lacing, I have been using a product call Leather Weld by Eco-Flo and sold by Tandy Leather. I glue paracord between two leather circles (2 1/2 inch) and use it for a pendulum target. It's still in testing(only 100 or so hits so far) and holding up in sun and rain so far. I used to do a little custom leather work when my hands were better. Anyway, hope some of this can be incorporated or save some work for others. More progress tomorrow.


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

I made it to the hardware store this morning and made this quick mock up tonight after work...along with the 2 revisions.






































Adding weight was the key to keep the target from bouncing back to the original side. I need to get some more conveyor belt to make more targets. 2 targets per arm is the way I'll go when I get the material. I'll also try going back to the longer arm to see if it still works. I want to keep the targets as far apart as possible and to keep them away from the center beam, in case I want to use a 2 x 4 instead of the angle iron.

More revisions to come in the next few days. Any and all comments are welcome.

Todd


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

After seeing that in action I want to try mine with just the belt target into the pipe. Nice work man! You're keeping it simple.


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## Greavous (Sep 29, 2013)

I get the feeling that GrayWolf's version will only get smoother over time. This could be a good thing or a bad thing. What im wondering/thinking is will the metal bracket smooth down the PVC tube with repeated cycles? In my mind it will shave the PVC but I get the feeling it will only shave it until it finds its happy shape and as long as the targets weight stays the same the wear could very well stop? Only one way to find out I guess.

My version does seem to be over complicated even though it isnt really. The plastic spring is kinda neat for pressure adjustment but I think we are seeing that weight and gravity can accomplish the same thing.

Three more cups of coffee and ill be back at it!

Chris


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

Something worth mentioning, the short length of the pivot tubes helps the action of my flap targets. It allows them to droop over the rim and requires more energy to move the targets. This was a happy testing accidental discovery. I thought longer pivot tubes would work better. I tried them and I was wrong.

Oh yes, Graywolf, could you come over and help me test this out properly?


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## Greavous (Sep 29, 2013)

Ok, now lets figure out how to make the target move up the pole as it swaps sides. The game would be to make it to the top in the least number of shots sort of thing. And nothing complicated!


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

Greavous said:


> I get the feeling that GrayWolf's version will only get smoother over time. This could be a good thing or a bad thing. What im wondering/thinking is will the metal bracket smooth down the PVC tube with repeated cycles? In my mind it will shave the PVC but I get the feeling it will only shave it until it finds its happy shape and as long as the targets weight stays the same the wear could very well stop? Only one way to find out I guess.
> 
> My version does seem to be over complicated even though it isnt really. The plastic spring is kinda neat for pressure adjustment but I think we are seeing that weight and gravity can accomplish the same thing.
> 
> ...


This was just a quick and easy place to start. It's a lot easier to cut the plastic a little at a time than it is with the black iron pipe that I will use when I get to my final set up. I think you are right about the plastic wearing over time. The gray pipe that I used is thicker than the cheaper pvc, but it will still wear with the metal bracket rubbing on it.

Todd


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

Beanflip said:


> Something worth mentioning, the short length of the pivot tubes helps the action of my flap targets. It allows them to droop over the rim and requires more energy to move the targets. This was a happy testing accidental discovery. I thought longer pivot tubes would work better. I tried them and I was wrong.
> 
> Oh yes, Graywolf, could you come over and help me test this out properly?


I would love to come over and test out some targets. I think that in a couple of days of shooting and building, we could come up with a pretty good model.

I'm going to work on a base over my weekend. I'm going to work from the ground up and see what I can come up with.

Todd


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

Greavous said:


> Ok, now lets figure out how to make the target move up the pole as it swaps sides. The game would be to make it to the top in the least number of shots sort of thing. And nothing complicated!


How about something like this...

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Gamo174-Plinking-Target-with-Drop-Ball/1314483.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26fsch%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Dgamo%2Btarget%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%2BProducts&Ntt=gamo+target&WTz_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products

fewest number of shots to get all the balls to the bottom. You could even have 2 person teams at a contest. Larger targets could be added to the arms. I'll be getting one of these and seeing what adjustments I can make to make it usable at a contest.

Todd


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## erniepc1 (Jun 7, 2014)

I use this model as is. It would be easy to add larger paddle targets if needed.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Gamo-Competition-Target-Deluxe-Spinning-Airgun-Target/21810201

You can shoot your own targets to go forward or shoot your opponents target and make him go backward. A little small but seemed like a good price.


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## Jack739 (May 30, 2013)

i slowly get addicted to this thread guys... so many constuctions, upgrades and new ideas... the bad thing is that my advanced education for corporate processes (woah pls shoot me) will keep me busy next week, i had literally forgotten this event but i need to focus on that to keep my boss happy...

I think i'll can only read your posts over the week, drool a little bit over my phone seeing all this beatiful working devices and spread some likes but weekend is primetime! Beanflip just build my dreamsetup, i could watch the flippers go round and round all day long.

But greavous spring and graywolfs idea with the two targets on one arm should get implemented as well. To get the movement of the flipper to the peak smooth, i would get back to the pvc pipe idea graywolf posted with the angled piece underneath the flipper, but maybe oil the pvc pipe or sand it real smooth that the pieces glide one over the other. After the flipper goes over the peak, it get pressed in place by the spring... maybe. I'll gonna test that, if not somebody will come up with a new great idea.

Woah and not to forgot the paddle and ball targets GW and erniepc1 had posted! Where should that end guys, all this ideas are too good to reject!


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## Susi (Mar 3, 2013)

Looks pretty interesting. Chuck's shop storage area yielded various PVC fittings/pipes which do fit nicely over each other for swivels. If you head PVC and cram something a little bigger in a fitting or pipe it's going to expand. Keep the item you cram into the PVC moving else it will stick when the PVC cools and tightens up/shrinks. Instead of flat PVC to hold the target disks he suggests a thick schedule tube and not the flat PVC for it, being flat, will likely break when it's hit whereas a round support would glance off the projectile unless it's hit squre on. Chuck is a metal man so likely he'd make everything out of steel except the target disks which would be metal or plastic jar lids. A simple two part wingnut tighted steel clampy dealie on the end of a 1/2" pipe would hold the jar lids.


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## Greavous (Sep 29, 2013)

I managed to all sorts of other things today instead of making a catch box and working on the target. I flung a dozen rounds at it today and those that hit saw the target flip every time. I just hate never seeing my ammo a second time so that was about all the shooting for the day. Still have tomorrow to make progress so im sure ill get something done, not like its going to rain.


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## SharpshooterJD (Oct 9, 2012)

Sweet thread! Oh man sorry I'm late to this thread but I have been interested in this for a while. I always thought it would be the coolest thing to have a slingshot duel with someone. Well I think I found my next project, probably won't be able to build anything for a couple of weeks but I will be watching and coming up with an idea and Ill tell you if I come up with anything different! Thanks Josh


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## Wingshooter (Dec 24, 2009)

I have not built one yet but I am still designing. This one can be expanded to any height you want and as many targets as you want. The steel base can be small and then bolt it to a large piece of plywood to be stable. Still juggling ideas. This drawing isn't to scale I mean for the magnets to be at the edge of the angle iron so they won't take a direct hit.


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

I got a little done on my version of the dueling tree over my weekend. The base is done and the upright is in place (using a 1 x 4 for this set of trials). I have the plastic pipe cut and mostly in place...I need a couple more parts....but I do know that I have to make some modifications in the pipes. I need to cut down the angle a little bit. I tried cutting a pipe in half at a 45 degree angle so that I didn't need to so as much cutting. I think a few minutes on the belt sander with each pipe and they will be ready to go.

I rough cut the conveyor belt targets tonight and need a couple of hours on the bench grinder and they will be done as well. If all goes well, I should have this version done next week.

Sorry, no pictures yet...really nothing much to see till it all comes together.

Todd


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## leon13 (Oct 4, 2012)

@Todd cant wait !!!!  cheers


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## leon13 (Oct 4, 2012)

Wingshooter said:


> I have not built one yet but I am still designing. This one can be expanded to any height you want and as many targets as you want. The steel base can be small and then bolt it to a large piece of plywood to be stable. Still juggling ideas. This drawing isn't to scale I mean for the magnets to be at the edge of the angle iron so they won't take a direct hit.


How about seatbelt material ? it's availability is endless (on car ♻ places) and durability is top notch. Cheers


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## Jack739 (May 30, 2013)

Cant wait to see what you come up with GrayWolf!

A friend of my tries to get me some pvc pipes and T-pieces ( so i dont have to spend money on that) and he will bend me some springs for my system! I really hope to get this stuff this weekend and set it up! Would be the perfect purpose to test my new catchbox


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## SharpshooterJD (Oct 9, 2012)

I actually made one with a single target made of duct tape attached to a wood rod that is set in a piece of PVC so it can spin freely it worked well bu the duct tape wasn't heavy enough and the PVC broke the first time I hit it so no pics sorry


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## Greavous (Sep 29, 2013)

Nope, PVC and steel ammo dont get along at all. I cant believe it and somewhat ashamed to admit it but I havent shot all week. Mostly due to file 13ing my old catch box system and not having anything to save my ammo. But, I just now finished shooting at my replacement box. Its actually a box I made several years ago which I lined with metal flashing and then proceeded to powder coat long odd shaped parts in. Now its re purposed and should do me well for a goodly while. Havent transplanted the flipper tree thingy into it yet but after some version 3 modifications ill get back to testing it.


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## DogBox (Aug 11, 2014)

I was looking at my local "chain-hardware" store flyer and spied a PVC Safety Bollard... The ones that are weighted at the bottom that you tie a rope or coloured plastic to 'rope-off' an area... http://www.bunnings.com.au/search/products?q=1090296&redirectFrom=Any

I thought.. 5kg base...PVC heavy upright pipe...run some thinner pipe down the middle for a hinge... cut some slots to allow flipper targets to.. ?half way there...! Yeah, I know it sounds easy from the comfort of my chair, but the Safety Bollard is the frame already made! ...?..no?... stands 1050mm tall..


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

DogBox said:


> I was looking at my local "chain-hardware" store flyer and spied a PVC Safety Bollard... The ones that are weighted at the bottom that you tie a rope or coloured plastic to 'rope-off' an area... http://www.bunnings.com.au/search/products?q=1090296&redirectFrom=Any
> I thought.. 5kg base...PVC heavy upright pipe...run some thinner pipe down the middle for a hinge... cut some slots to allow flipper targets to.. ?half way there...! Yeah, I know it sounds easy from the comfort of my chair, but the Safety Bollard is the frame already made! ...?..no?... stands 1050mm tall..


 Give it a try, love to see what you come up with. It is an attractive idea.


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## DogBox (Aug 11, 2014)

Beanflip said:


> DogBox said:
> 
> 
> > I was looking at my local "chain-hardware" store flyer and spied a PVC Safety Bollard... The ones that are weighted at the bottom that you tie a rope or coloured plastic to 'rope-off' an area... http://www.bunnings.com.au/search/products?q=1090296&redirectFrom=Any
> ...


Would love to give it a try... but already my back-burner ran outa gas...


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

Here is my latest version of the dueling tree. I already have an idea to improve on the rubber band...I hope to try that tomorrow.






I did find that the one target that bounced back in the video was a thinner rubber band...it didn't have the strength to pull on the target enough to keep it from returning.

I also had to change from my original 1 x 4 to a 2 x 4...there was too much flex in the thinner board and the targets bounced around.

Little by little, things are looking up.

Todd


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

I love it! Rubber bands! A great alternative to adding weight. We are on our way to a great system that anyone will be able to recreate! Good thinking Graywolf! 

Maybe anchor the bands to a point below the target?


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

I finally got out to do a little testing. The rubber bands didn't work as well as I had hoped. They pulled too much and didn't let the targets move. I unhooked the bands and the targets moved back and forth and didn't fly around. I think the weight and the angle of the plastic pipe are good for average target to heavy bands. In order to make it work for light bands, I will either have to lose some of the weight, or decrease the angle.

I did finish making the last 2 targets.

I think that if I take this to my fabricator, he can get a good idea of what I want and make one or 2. I think that is a winter project.






Todd


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## Greavous (Sep 29, 2013)

That is working out rather well id say. Sorry to say I havent been spending any time with my version but the more I see your working out the less I think about mine. At least I have a catch box again.


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

That's looking real good Graywolf! I like how they are turning.


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## SharpshooterJD (Oct 9, 2012)

Nice gray wolf looks really fun!


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## leon13 (Oct 4, 2012)

COOOOOL ! looks so good

cheers


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

The dueling tree finally got an appropriate testing today. It worked very well. Here's the video. You be the judge.


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## GrayWolf (May 14, 2012)

That looks like a lot of fun! I think you need to bring that to the MWST.


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

Some pics of the paint ball carnage.


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

GrayWolf said:


> That looks like a lot of fun! I think you need to bring that to the MWST.


I would love to! Everyone should try paint balls to.


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

Looks like a lot of fun!

Cheers ... Charles


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## oldmiser (Jan 22, 2014)

What a good time you guys had all afternoon shooting...Loos like it worked very well...~AKAOldmiser


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## Just An Old Kid (Mar 14, 2012)

Beanflip, enjoyed the video!

REALLY like your backyard shooting range!

Have Fun!

Randy


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## Nobodo (Nov 5, 2014)

Just today saw this thread for the first time; lot of great ideas here.

I've been thinking about how to build one of these for a while now.

I love the competition -- 4 or so targets on each side to start, the one to get rid of all the targets on his side first wins!

It looks like there's been a lot of progress on this. Has anybody actually tried using magnets like suggested earlier in the thread or using a 'hill/valley' type system like Wingshooter discussed?


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## rockslinger (Nov 16, 2010)

Too much fun! :thumbsup:


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## Kerry Cornelius (Nov 11, 2014)

I saw a HDPE target in shape of a crow with a weight on the bottom so shen it hits it will spin around and end staight back up for the next shot when done spinning.


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

A couple pics of the mechanism and another pic of the box. You can really see the paint carnage now.


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

Just An Old Kid said:


> Beanflip, enjoyed the video!
> 
> REALLY like your backyard shooting range!
> 
> ...


Thanks Randy 
It's good to hear from you!


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## Nobodo (Nov 5, 2014)

Beanflip said:


> A couple pics of the mechanism and another pic of the box. You can really see the paint carnage now.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I see you are using the hill/valley technique.

It seems from the video that sometimes the target doesn't flip and sometimes it flips and flips back.

I wonder if the hill is maybe a little too high, and if magnets on the post on each side of the pvc and on the stems of the targets might solve those issues?

Neodymium magnets might break, but not if coated in about 4 layers of plasti-dip.


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## Beanflip (Sep 11, 2010)

Nobodo said:


> Beanflip said:
> 
> 
> > A couple pics of the mechanism and another pic of the box. You can really see the paint carnage now.
> ...


I'm really satisfied with their operation. Where you hit the target is critical and I think that would be the case with any design.


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## sidecar_ (Jan 14, 2016)

Thank you for this awesome collaboration. Great results. Really cool seeing it come together. Look forward to giving it a go. Here are some pictures I took today in a local shop. Made me think of your project.


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