# When Starting a New Tapered Band on A New Sheet ... How do You Cut the Angle Without Waisting A Lot of Material ?



## wll (Oct 4, 2014)

Getting some flat material in .. How do you guys start the process of cutting the first taper without wasting a lot of material ?

wll


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## SteveJ (Jun 24, 2020)

watching, I just started cutting the taper with the straight edge , maybe I should be throwing the first cut away


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## High Desert Flipper (Aug 29, 2020)

This video gives a good demo on cutting tapers. Can be done with any ruler, but the adjustable guide he uses is really helpful. I got one of these guides and love it, although very careful marking with a ruler gets the job done as well.


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## vince4242 (Jan 11, 2016)

I have the taper ruler shown in the video, which works very well the cut individual tapers. I also have the taper templates that let you cut the entire width of the latex. You are stuck with a certain taper so you want to know exactly what you use but it is ridiculously fast and works really well.

Honestly I was pleasantly surprised at how well the taper ruler works. I haven't locked in for quarter inch steel at 15 x 10 taper with .5 simple shot latex


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## wll (Oct 4, 2014)

Yes, I have the taper ruler also, but on your VERY FIRST CUT, must you trim the one side to the angle of your taper don't you ?

wll.


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## Island made (Aug 14, 2019)

There’s no need to trim the first band. Just cut your taper using the straight edge of the elastic. You may think there will be one side tapered and one side straight, but it don’t work like that. You can cut the top and bottom of your band on a slight angle to make the both sides “even” but it’s unnecessary. If this makes any sense….


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## High Desert Flipper (Aug 29, 2020)

wll said:


> Yes, I have the taper ruler also, but on your VERY FIRST CUT, must you trim the one side to the angle of your taper don't you ?
> 
> wll.



If you want to have perfectly symmetrical tapers you will have to trim the edge of the latex to half of the taper and then start in with the ruler. But I don't think the symmetrical tapers make a big difference- I think several have tested this and found no detectable difference between symmetrical tapers (both sides of band taper) vs asymmetrical tapers (one side of band square, other side tapered). 

If you use this ruler with latex the way it comes your tapers will have one straight edge and one tapered edge and this is just fine.

If you get really serious about symmetrical tapers where both edges of the band taper, you can take a half taper wedge off the elastic before using the ruler or order some plexiglass cutting templates. And yes, then you will lose some elastic, or rather, you will have some elastic that doesn't make it into bands.

The extra elastic isn't necessarily wasted tough- the stuff that doesn't get into bands can but cut into strips and used to tie the bands to the forks. This is what I do.

For starting out, I wouldn't worry about it and just go with asymmetrical tapers. They will do just fine and if you want to get really precise about it there are ways to get that done.


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## wll (Oct 4, 2014)

High Desert Flipper said:


> If you want to have perfectly symmetrical tapers you will have to trim the edge of the latex to half of the taper and then start in with the ruler. But I don't think the symmetrical tapers make a big difference- I think several have tested this and found no detectable difference between symmetrical tapers (both sides of band taper) vs asymmetrical tapers (one side of band square, other side tapered).
> 
> If you use this ruler with latex the way it comes your tapers will have one straight edge and one tapered edge and this is just fine.
> 
> ...


Thank you very much High Desert Flipper, just the kind of Info I was looking for ; - )

wll


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## Booral121 (Jan 6, 2019)

I 110% recommend a band cutting template my friend .they are the best thing on the market 👌in under 10 seconds you can cut yourself between 3 and 6 perfectly tapered sets 👌


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## Grandpa Grumpy (Apr 21, 2013)




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## treefork (Feb 1, 2010)

I use the " Btoon " band jig .
The key is to alternate your taper measure . Example : Using a 25 mm x 20 mm taper .
Mark your 25 mm on one side and 20 mm on the other . Cut band . Now mark your 20 mm first and 25 mm on the other end . Now you cut two bands leaving your remaining stock square . Continue alternating in the fashion . You end up with one small piece of stock which can be used for wrap and tuck or BB shooting bands . No waste this way .


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## raventree78 (Apr 20, 2016)

Yeah I just shoot asymmetrical tapers and go on.  best of luck with your band cutting endeavors.


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## Pebble Shooter (Mar 29, 2014)

Here is how I proceed to cut tapered flat bands to maximize the use of available rubber:

With the sheet of rubber cut to the needed length *placed vertically *on the cutting board on front of me, I place a (finger safety enhanced) metal cutting ruler *vertically* on the sheet of rubber, and then use a foldable wood measuring ruler placed *perpendicularly* (90 degrees) against the vertically placed and held down metal cutting ruler to measure the required tapered width at the very *top and bottom* of the sheet of rubber for each separate flat band prior to cutting, and then *invert* the wider section of each flat band section from top to bottom for every new band section, and measure again as mentioned above.

*To keep it simple, you start out by measuring, say* *20 mm taper width at the top, and 12 mm taper width at the bottom for the first band, and then measure 20 mm width at the bottom 12 mm at the top for band number two.* Once you have cut one set of two tapered bands, the side of your sheet of rubber should be straight again. There is no need for marked off measurements using a ballpoint pen or other tedious preparation with this simple approach. You will obtain accurate widths and tapers this way. Please refer to the image attached.

I use a 45 mm "Olfa" brand rotary cutter to cut my bands. With standard rubber exercise bands, or the "Precise" brand rubber from China, I can normally cut 3 band sets per 15-16 cm wide rubber section, with a straight remnant of "left-over" rubber approximately 10-15 mm wide at the end of the process. This I use either to cut wrap & tuck strips, or to make band sets suitable to shoot .177 cal. BB's. Thus, nothing is wasted.

Hope all this makes sense.


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## Karloshi (Apr 6, 2021)

asymmetrical band cutting like Pebble Shooter's image shows doesn't waste any material and I don't notice any difference in accuracy. Also I think the wear in more evenly distributed. There is a detailed post somewhere about it but i can't find it now.


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## Trap1 (Apr 12, 2020)

I agree with all above even although I always cut a half taper + 1mm @ the start (..20/12 = 4mm +1mm). 

The reason I do this is I've found that some rolls may have a slight wavy edge/s (throughout the 2M length) & are no entirely straight when laid flat. Although this edge curvature can be slight..when I straighten this out by hand against the rule I've found my 2nd/3rd cuts across the width may exhibit this waviness also & so on.. I ken this is minor but it p*ss*d me aff when it happened a couple of times. So noo I just auto pilot a strip cut & dont worry if edges are straight/parallel or exactly 90° The most important thing in cutting bands that I've found is marking your active length correctly ie the waste should be approx. equal both ends. Mark your 1st waste end & draw your first line across your (150mm std) width, measure & mark your active length from this line. Dont measure in from both ends (as this assumes parallelism between both marked lines,) you want to keep any variables to your waste lengths. Hope this makes sense.. I'm curious if others have encountered this?


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## cromag (Jan 17, 2021)

I should not get into this but the only thing that matters is the distance between the ends. Both edges will taper to each other regardless of how square they are to the ends which is of little importance even after attachment to the forks. If a band is 20mm on one end and 15mm on the other it makes no difference how the sheet was oriented when you start. You could cut two bands at any angle on the sheet of latex and as long as they are the same dimensions it makes no difference how you start out. The only way it would make a difference is if the latex had a"grain" that affected it's performance.

Island Made has it right.


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## wll (Oct 4, 2014)

*Great info from all you guys and very much appreciated. This info gives me the knowledge to cut the flats the correct way.

Thank you all very much,*


wll


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## SteveJ (Jun 24, 2020)

treefork said:


> I use the " Btoon " band jig .
> The key is to alternate your taper measure . Example : Using a 25 mm x 20 mm taper .
> Mark your 25 mm on one side and 20 mm on the other . Cut band . Now mark your 20 mm first and 25 mm on the other end . Now you cut two bands leaving your remaining stock square . Continue alternating in the fashion . You end up with one small piece of stock which can be used for wrap and tuck or BB shooting bands . No waste this way .


Thats it thanks , that what Ive been doing , keeps the sheet pretty square, but thought I may have been missing something.. I hadnt got my numbers nailed down enough to get a jig


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## treefork (Feb 1, 2010)

SteveJ said:


> Thats it thanks , that what Ive been doing , keeps the sheet pretty square, but thought I may have been missing something.. I hadnt got my numbers nailed down enough to get a jig


I've been doing it this way from the beginning . It works . Minimal to no waste . Symmetrical would be nice but at what cost to time and money .


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## wll (Oct 4, 2014)

The guy that does our engraving made me a couple guides that are 22mm x 17mm x 187mm long --- just what I wanted. He also cut a 6" x 7 3/8" piece that I will use to cut the OAL of the bands, he did a great job, When my Thera Band Gold comes in today I will make a couple of sets ;- )











wll


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## treefork (Feb 1, 2010)

wll said:


> The guy that does our engraving made me a couple guides that are 22mm x 17mm x 187mm long --- just what I wanted. He also cut a 6" x 7 3/8" piece that I will use to cut the OAL of the bands, he did a great job, When my Thera Band Gold comes in today I will make a couple of sets ;- )
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm curious if the new Thera Gold is the same as it was a few years ago . I was good band . Where did you order it from ?


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## wll (Oct 4, 2014)

treefork said:


> I'm curious if the new Thera Gold is the same as it was a few years ago . I was good band . Where did you order it from ?


Ordered from Amazon, have not got it yet, will send you guys the info when Amazon arrives ... their shipping has been horrible lately !
------------------
Just got it in, it is .025 thick, the roll is 6' long by 5" wide. I will make my flats tomorrow and report back


wll


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## wll (Oct 4, 2014)

I cut4 73/8long sections and made 24 bands or 12 band sets, took very little time. I then made a band set using a 48mm dimpled pouch and attached it to one of my F-16'susing 2mm rubber tie material. 

I have never pulled back Thera Band Gold but it seems pretty smooth with my 22mm x 17mm x 187mm Long bands. I'm very much looking forward to trying it with 5/16" and 3/8" steel tomorrow and seeing how they fly.


















Will report back tomorrow on these bands and the 107 rubber band set up ;- )


wll


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## High Desert Flipper (Aug 29, 2020)

Welcome to the beginning of the rest of your obsession! I hope you enjoy it as much as the rest of us!


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## wll (Oct 4, 2014)

Had my guy make a 24mm x 18mm size and a 20mm x 14mm size also to go along with the 22mm x 17mm I have ... I think I'm pretty well set ;- )

wll


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## wll (Oct 4, 2014)

It's a pretty cool 72ﾟ out here at 5:15 in the morning, the wind is blowing a little bit so I put up the chronograph and start to test the 107 bands and the Thera Band with 5/16" steel. I turn ion the chronograph and start to test ---- the Thera Band is shooting 278fps, the 107 are shooting 217fps, It's only 72ﾟ out here not the 85°+ that it has been. I shot a few shots using the TBG and 3/8" steel and got ~249fps. The 3/8" were not screamers but they flew straight around the 35 yard area and hit hard. This new TBG I think is OK ,IMHO. The 107's I could not pull all the way back ... it was very tough !

The cut I'm using with TBG is 22mm x 17mm and 187 long, the active length is ~6.25" and the draw is 32.5". The thickness measures .025".

Being the fork width is wider on the F-16 then my Chinese slingshots I've been shooting, I'm shooting a bit low so I have to hold a little bit higher, no big deal, use to it already :- ) I'm also pulling straight back (no twist and tweak) and have had no problem, anchor is on the Jaw bone with the thumbnail up just touching at the lobe of the ear.

Have shot maybe 50 shots and the 2mm fork tie rubber is working great, nothing has moved and the Thera Band looks in very good shape. I have not shot the 107's again as it would be easier to pull a Mack Truck :- ) I think they need a good break in period !

Hand or finger slapping has not been an issue using the TBG and 5/16" steel so far.

When I got back home I redid the F-16 with 107's on it and put Simple-Shot 22mm x18mm's on it and then did up a rubber tubed F-16 with a finger sling for the 107's, tied 107's on fork using Chinese ribbon material .... we will see how that works ? - pic below.










Until tomorrow.

wll


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## Alfred E.M. (Jul 5, 2014)

*I understand the feeling of self sufficiency and pride in cutting our own bands (similar to reloading ammo) and don't knock it even 1%. However, a few of us get a pass from cutting due to age or medical impairment and for that, outfits like SimpleShot and slingshooting.com are a blessing. Simple sells prepackaged tapers in popular sizes very reasonably, while slingshooting will cut any 2 meter roll they sell into any taper you want for $1.50 per roll! A fairly large zip-loc bag arrives full of tapers, and if they wasted any latex in the process, I couldn't care less. Without this inexpensive service, I would be very limited in using flat tapers.*


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## wll (Oct 4, 2014)

Alfred E.M. said:


> *I understand the self sufficiency and pride in cutting our own bands (similar to reloading ammo) and don't knock it even 1%. However, a few of us get a pass from cutting due to age or medical impairment and for that, outfits like SimpleShot and slingshooting.com are a blessing. Simple sells prepackaged tapers in popular sizes very reasonably, while slingshooting will cut any 2 meter roll they sell into any taper you want for $1.50 per roll! A fairly large zip-loc bag arrives full of tapers, and if they wasted any latex in the process, I couldn't care less. Without this inexpensive service, I would be very limited in using flat tapers.*


You are very, very correct and I agree 100% with your statement.

I have ordered some from slingshooting to arrive shortly and from Simpleshot also.

Thank you Ward for your response, much appreciated:- )

wll


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## wll (Oct 4, 2014)

It's 72ﾟ and a little chilly, wind is blowing and bands are a little cool. I'm out here shooting with the tapered Simple Shot 22mm x 18mm and I'm getting 293fps with 5/16" steel and 272fps with 3/8" steel. You can really feel the difference in your amount of power it takes to draw back between the TBG and the and the Simple Shot tapered bands. The Simple Shot tapered bands have more resistance for sure.

This 22x18mm taper using .7mm thick bands really works well with the 3/8" inch steel --- they are flying out of there like a tight rope and they're hitting very hard. The 5/16" are just a blur and they're there right now ----- I'm very very very happy with this setup !

I did not try anything else today because I was so thrilled with the speed I was getting. The pouch helps also, it is a AliExpress 48mm for 8.5mm ball, and is big enough for the 3/8" steel also, at $19 a hundred you can't go wrong, this is a great light pouch.

I leave that location and go to my old air gun shooting spot, I fire off a few shots and hit everything I shoot at, from an old chimney top that's about 40 yd away it's way to a roof air duct that's about 45 yd out, I then smack a piece of tin on another building some 45+ yards out that's standing up on a old barn roof --- That ball got there quick !

I head back to the "Outpost" to make up a couple more band sets and re-set up my Tubed Frame F-16 that had a 107 rubber banded set on her yesterday !
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Just tied up 3 more SS 22mmX18mm sets cut to about 187mm long. Put one on the F-16 that had 107's on it, below is a pic as that tubed F-16 sling looks now with the AliExpress pouch on her.










wll


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## wll (Oct 4, 2014)

It's lunchtime at work and I don't feel like eating as my back is killing me ---- so I make up 12 band sets using TBG, 24mm x 18mm x 187mm Long -------- This should send 3/8" like a bullet and maybe 7/16" out super quick also !!!


wll


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## wll (Oct 4, 2014)

Head back out to my spot this late afternoon to shoot a few shots. Using 5/16" with SS Bands at 22mmx18mm. Man alive these steelies are *FLYING.* Using my black rubber tubed F-16 frame with 2mm tie wraps on forks, works like a dream 

I'm shooting and that ball is pounding stuff. It's 85° and no coolness in the air. I did not shoot any 3/8" as they would have been a blur also but no need to waste them if it's not for serious business :- )

Will be interesting to see how these flats perform compared to the 24mmx18mm TBG I tied up earlier today. I'm sure though the TBG with that cut will hold its own and maybe more with 5/16" steel.

I have never shot as much bands as I have the past few weeks and I must say with the tapers I'm using, and the ammo I'm using, I'm in heaven. Lighter to pull back than tubes and faster. I must say that single 3050 is a great tube size for what I'm doing and works very, very well, but the tapered flats are the cat's meow ! I thought they would be a real pain to make, but they are pretty much "Easy Peasy" ! The only question I have is how long will they last ? My two main sizes are 22mmx17mm and 24mmx18mm, so we will see with 525% elongation. I have thickness sizes coming from .7mm to .8mm. From China Slingshot sources. For my use now I can't see myself using anything bigger. My SS Bands are .7mm but have .8mm in the frig. TBG is .025" or .635mm.

So much for today.

wll


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## wll (Oct 4, 2014)

Made a couple 24mmx18mm in TBG and SS .7mm thick elastic. Put them in my shooting bag with shooting glasses, and I'm on the road !!

May shoot a little after work if my back holds up OK, having back issues is no fun :- )

wll


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## ukj (Jan 10, 2021)

So lets think geometry for a minute.
The first cut band will have 2 90* degree ends and opposit of these will be slightly more or less.
But by carefully cutting both ends
Width wise I am thinking that a fully sym band should exist?
Meaning the angles of the corners at each end will be the same.
From then on every cut should lend full sym cuts.
I am interested enough to test with
Paper when back home soon. 
But, have a strong feeling that release is far more important than ultra presice bands.
I also question if I get better results cutting one at a time or dampining and doing two. 
Will say ajustable cutting tool
is well worth buying!
I do know that having good light, thick
Glass surface under cutting mat, sharp rollar blade, enough pressure on clear fench, often ask wife for help and sure when cutting Albatross bands as use ruler for longer.
I find cutting and tieing
Bands a fun hobby part of this pastime.
I tried many times to shoot
tubes just can not feel it at all!
Also note temperature plays a huge roll
in band performance.
Off to test sym band therory with
typing paper and protractor.
Stay safe, covid still with us, protect the vulnerable while taking care of yourself at the same time!
ukj


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## High Desert Flipper (Aug 29, 2020)

Glad to see you are enjoying this! It has become a very fun obsession and pastime for me.


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## ukj (Jan 10, 2021)

Ok so just for fun did some geometery
Tinkering with tapering. Of course straight bands have 4 90 corners.
Tapered lend a little less than this on the wide end as a little more on the narrow. If one is hard core maniac, A R if you get it, you can cut the ends to
Have the corner angles the same degrees. I was able to do this by eye with 30 cm thin metal ruler.
My paper drawn lines test using 40 mm to 10 mm to get more angles showed less than 3 degrees difference.
So if it floats your boat you can get out your protractor and experiment with cutting ends getting near perfect tapered bands.
I will do this next cut session but have a strong feeling my time is better spent shooting to get more on target.
Also imho think that bands being as close to the same as possible and most of all lengths from
Frame attatch to pouch equal!
BUT
Many even if some tweak is undecticable would still like the best set ups so if that is you have at it.
Understand that fliiping taper tool will render another two 90* corners at oppisit ends because one will have a rectangle again.
ukj


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## wll (Oct 4, 2014)

Waiting on some more flat material to come in: I have a couple roles of Snipersling black in .7mm and some Gen 3 Precise .75 and Sumeike .65 coming in from China Slingshot --- The wait is killing me ;- )


wll


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