# Aiming At 20+ Yards?



## Northerner (Nov 9, 2010)

I'm still quite new to the whole idea of aiming a slingshot using the forks. For many years I shot instinctive with slightly canted forks. Now I'm tinkering with the gangsta style and deliberate aiming.

Shooting at 10 yards with gangsta style is not a problem. Most of the time the groups will pretty much fit onto a playing card. Once I stretch out to 20 yards the story is different. Anchoring on my ear lobe and aiming at center doesn't work. At 20 yards my POI drops about 6" below the 10 yard POI. Dropping my anchor to the bottom of my ear lobe and stretching out my draw seems to bring my POI upwards enough so that I can aim at the top of a 6" bullseye and hit close to center area. With a boardcut TTF design I can't aim above my target because the forks will block out my sight picture. I'm hoping to figure something out for tin can shooting at 20 yards.

There seems to be a big advantage to OTT design when shooting distance increases. Aiming above the target is very possible because the target is still visible. Unfortunately I seem to like TTF frames, for now.

Maybe I need more velocity for a flatter trajectory? 
Anyone else shoot gangsta _aiming style_ at 20 yards? Anchor point? Aiming point?

Cheers,
Northerner


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## smitty (Dec 17, 2009)

I use the same anchor point every time, at least I really try. I just raise or lower the slingshot depending on where the last shot hit. The fork width makes a big difference for aiming at a target when shooting gangster style. A wider fork will naturally lower the shot if the top fork is used to aim with and a narrower fork will hit higher if the top fork is on the bulls-eye.
I decided to shoot with two and a quarter inches between forks with one inch wide forks for a total of four and a quarter inches outside the forks. This puts the top of the fork on the bulls-eye at ten yards and the middle of the fork on the bulls-eye at twenty yards. Of course, this is depending on the cut and type of bands I use too. I usually use a 3/4" straight cut of Thera-Band gold and I divide my draw length by four to get the pouch tie to fork tie dimension the way I like it. I like the one inch wide forks because the target bulls-eye stays on the fork even when shooting long distance and I can keep even one inch bands easily flat on the fork tip.


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## Northerner (Nov 9, 2010)

Thanks for the reply smitty. I was starting to wonder if everyone shot at less than 20 yards...lol.









My 10 yard aiming is similar to yours (forks in middle of bullseye). I'm guessing that my velocity is less than what you are getting because I have to aim at the top of a 6" bullseye at 20 yards and also lower my anchor point. I'm enjoying the TTF shooters but I must aim with the side of the top fork rather than the end (like with OTT). This seems to be a big disadvantage for shots beyond 15 yards. I'll have to try shortening my bands a bit to see if the trajectory can be made flat enough for my needs.

Attached is a pic of a frame with gum rubber. I switched to TheraGolds a while ago. Forks are 1" wide, between forks is 2 3/8".

Cheers,
Northerner


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## Melchior (Dec 27, 2009)

What to do if your target is obstructed by the fork? I slightly tilt the fork sideways (about 5-10 degrees), this allows me to see the target next to the fork end.
You will also experience that you will shoot a little bit higher this way.


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## Northerner (Nov 9, 2010)

Melchior said:


> What to do if your target is obstructed by the fork? I slightly tilt the fork sideways (about 5-10 degrees), this allows me to see the target next to the fork end.
> You will also experience that you will shoot a little bit higher this way.


Hi Melchior,

Thanks for the suggestion.

I tilt the top fork a bit to the right to get POI hitting center (windage adjustment). With the velocity I am getting the point-of-aim has to be the top of a 6" bullseye at 20 yards. Here is a pic that might help. With this TTF design I don't aim with the fork tip. I use the side of the fork to aim. The bands wrap around the outside of the forks.

Cheers,
Northerner


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## Melchior (Dec 27, 2009)

Ah, you have the bands installed in broad slots..of course, this will obstruct a lof of your view, and you will have to rotate a lot to get clear sight again. It is exactly he reason why I prefer the over-the-top type of attachment. I suggest you either try this attachment method or adapt to a 45° shooting style.


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## Northerner (Nov 9, 2010)

Hi Melchior,

Thanks again. I never thought of trying a 45 degree shooting style. I'll give it a try and see how I do.

The attachment method is similar to Bill Hays' universal forks with the bands around the outisde and fastened to the front. No slots involved. Sometimes I groove the frame but not always.

Cheers,
Northerner


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## pelleteer (Dec 19, 2009)

smitty said:


> I use the same anchor point every time, at least I really try. I just raise or lower the slingshot depending on where the last shot hit.


Same here. I will add that my accuracy at 20 yards is not near what it is at 10, but I'm slowly getting there.


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## mckee (Oct 28, 2010)

Personnally if u can shoot instinctive dont change for the sake of it


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## Northerner (Nov 9, 2010)

*Update:
*
Canting the frame, as suggested by Melchior, works for mild bands (3/4" x 1/2 "x 8 1/4" Golds). I can use the fork tip (top corner) and get center area hits at 28'.

I think the best answer for me is to shorten the 3/4" straight cut bands for more power at 20 yards. The TheraGolds are around 8 1/4" to 8 3/8" right now and hitting 2" high at 28'. I still have to try them at 20 yards. I'm guessing that 8" or 8 1/4" should put the POI closer to center at 20 yards. I'll try it out this week.

Here is how it shot today from 28' (6 o'clock hold on the black). This is my best target yet. I used 5/16" steel. There are 25 balls in a group that measures around 2". I like when days like this happen









The TTF (around the forks) design is very sweet to shoot. I can use light ammo and get no hand slap at all.

Cheers,
Northerner


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## Bill Hays (Aug 9, 2010)

I know what you mean... the no handslap thing allows you to fully concentrate on the target and not worry about about the punishing sting from fast bands coupled with light ammo.

Aiming's pretty easy as well, just pull back under your dominant eye, keeping both eyes open and you should be able to overlay the fork over the target... if shooting from longer distances. Fastbands with flat trajectories, that's the way to go.


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