# Linseed oil soak



## The Gopher (Aug 25, 2010)

OK, for all of you guys who soak their slingshots in linseed oil as a finish, how long do you let the item soak? And, can this be used on multiplex, or will it effect the glue? 



Thanks, Dan.


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## flippinout (Jul 16, 2010)

I prefer danish oil for a soak. I have soaked port orford cedar arrow shafts for up to 8 weeks and gained 70gr after they fully dried. I prefer danish oil because it goes deep into the wood and polymerizes the wood cells. I am sure it would be good for frames too. Either way, if you can create a vacuum it will go deeper, quicker. For frames I bet you could use a kitchen type vacuum sealer. Not sure how the bag would hold up to danish, but linseed should not be a problem. Just give it time to dry thoroughly, up to a week in a warm area, or you will get oil al over you when handling it.

Keep us posted


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## HiCS (Aug 11, 2010)

2 days in a sealed bag in a warm to hot place (I use my car's trunk or even on the dashboard of my truck since my office's parking place is under the sun).


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

I just keep giving it a flood coat every day until the wood won't take any more, then I rub it into a nice lustre with a tee shirt or something. Perry finished my PS-2 made out of multiplex with linseed oil at my request and it's holding up beautifully.


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## lucifer93 (May 4, 2010)

1
Buy some boiled linseed oil.

2
Make sure the wood you are going to finish is clean and free of dust.

3
Rub liberal amounts of linseed oil into the wood with a clean, lint-free cloth. Continue applying until the wood won't absorb any more oil.

4
Buff the wood with a clean, lint-free cloth. Rub it until a finger touched on the wood doesn't pick up any oil

5
Dry the wood overnight. It should be relatively warm while drying. A temperature of 70 degrees or higher is ideal.

6
Burnish the wood with "0000" steel wool after the first coat has dried

7
Clean the surface of any dust and finish the wood again. You'll have to finish it at least 4 or 5 times.


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## CHANEKE_JOSH (Feb 10, 2010)

what i do is... mixing 50%turpetine... 50%linseed oil... and i use a brush to aply the oil... 3 coats... 1 per day; then use a 1200 grits sandpaper.

cheers mate


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## The Gopher (Aug 25, 2010)

i like the vaccuum idea, with my vaccuum sealer i actually have a canister with a special lid that i can vaccuum seal shut, i bet i could fit 3 frames in there at once!

Shhh, don't tell my wife.

Thanks guys


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

flippinout said:


> I prefer danish oil for a soak. I have soaked port orford cedar arrow shafts for up to 8 weeks and gained 70gr after they fully dried. I prefer danish oil because it goes deep into the wood and polymerizes the wood cells. I am sure it would be good for frames too. Either way, if you can create a vacuum it will go deeper, quicker. For frames I bet you could use a kitchen type vacuum sealer. Not sure how the bag would hold up to danish, but linseed should not be a problem. Just give it time to dry thoroughly, up to a week in a warm area, or you will get oil al over you when handling it.
> 
> Keep us posted


Flip, Danish oil is still linseed oil. I use raw and -- depending on the wood -- plenty of it soaks in by itself.

http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/danish.htm


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## Tex-Shooter (Dec 17, 2009)

Did you know that Linseed oiled rags in a garbage can combust? Did you know that Linseed oil holds a tremendous amount of BTUs? When I use Linseed oil, I use a small rag (about 6 by 6 inches) and burn it in an out side fire box after I am done. You will be surprised how long it will burn. I also don't let Linseed oil soak deep into the wood because of the danger. I just put on a light coat and let it dry and buff it. I learned about the dangers of linseed oil while working as a tool designer at Hercules years ago. Linseed oil looks, smells feels so safe! Don't be fooled! - Tex http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=5&sqi=2&ved=0CCYQFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fabcnews.go.com%2FGMA%2FConsumerNews%2Fsummer-safety-diy-dangers-linseed-oil%2Fstory%3Fid%3D11328546&ei=u7O9TIqkOM2r8AaU5uj5Bg&usg=AFQjCNGarC7q3usUQSSC-3rgySgKb0Z_0w


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

What about Danish oil, Tex? Must deserve the same caveats, no?


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## The Gopher (Aug 25, 2010)

Yeah, you actually need to be careful with all oil-based finishes. The "drying" is actually a reaction with air that is exothermic (releases heat). if a soaked rag is left crumpled up, the resulting reaction could create enough heat to combust.

and it's not just a "could happen" thing, one of my old bosses had his mom's house burn to the ground due to this very thing.

I don't burn the rags when i'm done, I usually lay them flat on a concrete floor (nothing around) or hang them up (with nothign around) until dry.


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## flippinout (Jul 16, 2010)

DH, i learned something new. I always liked danish over linseed as it doesn't get gummy like linseed can when doing multiple coats. Also, with the Watco brand you can purchase different colors/stains. I am sure it would be just as combustible. I do the same thing as Tex and burn the rags when i am finished and am always amazed at how long it burns.

Anybody know what Birchwood Casey Tru Oil is made from?

Also, Sam Maloof (recently deceased furniture craftsman) used a finish made up of 50% raw linseed 50% raw Tung. Those are cooked in a double boiler (outdoors with fire extinquisher handy) while adding beeswax till the mixture just starts to sheet off a cold spoon. When cool it becomes paste like and makes a really nice finish as well.


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