# Varnish dip ?



## Hunter69 (Jun 23, 2011)

Has anyone tried to dip a whole frame in varnish to save time ?

I tried it out today on an old damaged frame that was for the bin anyway but I first thinned the varnish so it was 50 / 50, I then dipped the whole thing in and l noticed very fine bubbles here and there but just blew on them and they all popped and vanished then hung upside down and left to dry, it has however come out quite well with just a couple of high spots on the fork tops which is expected as last drips fell away...

This would'nt be a problem as they can be fine papered away after and touched up with a brush but the bands will cover this anyway and because it goes on a lot thicker than wiping on you would probably only need 1 or 2 dips to complete it ...more experimenting I think


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## Rockape66 (Dec 18, 2011)

It would take a much more experienced finisher than myself to answer this, but I believe there must be a reason that craftsmen have always used multiple thin coats to finish wood. Maybe thick coats are more likely to become damaged and flake off.


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

Thick coats like that tend to dry on the outside first and prevent the inside from drying.

A member here did it recently dipping in a poly finish. 2 months later it's still soft.


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

I think Gary (Flatband) dips his. To great success, too. His method is probably highly proprietary.


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## Sean (Nov 17, 2011)

I've found applying varnish can be fickle depending what it's going on, the shape, and time of year, aka drying time. I've applied
varnish by sponge brush which I didn't have much success with as you end up with more than a thin coat on and then have
to worry about drips and uneveness. The bristle brush worked better, aka thinner coat but I still ended up sanding and applying
coat after coat to try and get things glass smooth.

The thing I would think with dipping is this. Your probably going to have to hang the piece (SS) somehow to allow it to dry without
laying it on something and having it marred. The other thing I think you'll find is that unless you check on the piece every few
minutes the varnish will form and solidify at the tips or the end and dry or however you have it hanging? You'll have to deal with
that perhaps by cutting or sanding the nodules off?
Having said this, I'm no wood finishing expert, this has only been my experience with what I've been using and how I've been applying
it to pieces I've done.
Have you tried a wipe on poly? I'm really liking this stuff so far albeit I just bought some the other day at the recommendation of I
think it was Dayhiker or Hrawk? Good luck.









sean


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## shawnr5 (Feb 16, 2011)

I don't think it would penetrate as well as a rubbed on/in finish. As far as I'm concerned, it's either Armor Seal polyurethane or Superglue. Those are the only finishes I'll use. Lately it has only been Superglue. I'm even thinking of Superglue for a pinewood derby car finish.


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

Superglue: 1. Spendy, 2. Very nasty fumeage. 3. Doesn't really enhance the appearance of some woods.


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