# Aiming a TTF



## kenyaslinger (Jun 27, 2013)

Hi everyone, I had my son hold out this TTF shooter so I could take a picture and make this illustration. How exactly does one aim a TTF, gangster style, at 10 meters? Do you sight the target at point 1, 2, 3 or 4?

I've seen it said that the top fork should be used, but no one has shown (or I haven't seen) exactly where on the fork. I'm eager to learn from your wealth of experience.


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## BC-Slinger (Jan 6, 2013)

I aim from one.

Cheers

BC-Slinger


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## reset (Apr 13, 2013)

I also aim from one.


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## mattardel (May 27, 2011)

Here's Bill Hayes' video on how to shoot gangster style, and he also uses the #1 position you have indicated.






It's a great watch and also teaches you more on form and draw as well as aiming.


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## All Buns Glazing (Apr 22, 2012)

1. Is the 'correct' spot to aim when aiming through/outside the forks.

2. is for Over the Top (OTT) shooting.

3. I've used this side of the fork for aiming at long distance targets (30+ meters).

4. Used for nothing except accidentally shooting when you're learning


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## kenyaslinger (Jun 27, 2013)

Thanks guys, your comments and the video are very helpful. I have tried that position, sometimes blocking the target with the fork, sometimes just barely seeing it above the fork, giving different results, but no consistency....


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## Aussie Allan In Thailand (Jan 28, 2013)

Well I personally aim from the 1 position, then allow for the rise or fall of my ammo or shot weight, depending upon the distance fired over.

This can only be learned from practice with a given shot weight, and band strength combination; and will inevitably change, as you change band strength setups, or draw lengths.

So there are many variables, which one needs to make as consistent as possible for accurate shooting.

I trust this helps, but with all skills sets in life, practice makes perfect.

The pros at any sport make it look easy, why,..... because of years of practice.

Cheers Allan


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## kenyaslinger (Jun 27, 2013)

Aussie Allan In Thailand said:


> Well I personally aim from the 1 position, then allow for the rise or fall of my ammo or shot weight, depending upon the distance fired over.
> 
> This can only be learned from practice with a given shot weight, and band strength combination; and will inevitably change, as you change band strength setups, or draw lengths.
> 
> ...


Well said Allan.... I will keep practicing this till I get it right!


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## Tube_Shooter (Dec 8, 2012)

#1 and with focus on these points: slingshot should always be square to the target draw length should be the same each time and most importantly the release should be smooth as any jerky release will effect where the ammo goes.


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## steveh6883 (Aug 10, 2013)

Do these points change if you shoot upright?


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## Tube_Shooter (Dec 8, 2012)

steveh6883 said:


> Do these points change if you shoot upright?


NO! shooting upright sitting or laying down the points remain the same


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## Aussie Allan In Thailand (Jan 28, 2013)

Depends if you mean holding the slingshot upright, or gangster style, as pictured and as the esteemed Mr Bill Hays hold it.

I always hold it as Mr Hays holds it, never as Y, ok.

And left handed, as my right eye is my master eye.

Cheers Allan


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## steveh6883 (Aug 10, 2013)

Tube_Shooter said:


> steveh6883 said:
> 
> 
> > Do these points change if you shoot upright?
> ...


Sorry, didn't mean if the person is upright, meant if the frame is rotated to shoot in the upright position.


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## Tube_Shooter (Dec 8, 2012)

steveh6883 said:


> Tube_Shooter said:
> 
> 
> > steveh6883 said:
> ...


Oh sorry mate in that case I would think it would change although I have never shot in that style so could not tell you how


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## reset (Apr 13, 2013)

Yes it changes. However i cant seem to find a consistent point shooting upright so i gave up on it. Im guessing centered between the forks at about top of forks but because i cant shoot consistently that way im not sure.


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## Bill Hays (Aug 9, 2010)

Yes you just place the center right below the target and release....


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## Katman (Jun 14, 2013)

Mattardel is right. If you watch big Bubba Hays shoot you will learn from an expert. He suggest to shoot from point 1


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## Bob at Draco (Feb 18, 2013)

I aim at one. I like my forks to be narrow and anchor on the top/back of my ear. As the range increases, my anchor moves down my ear. The bottom of my ear is right at 40 yds. This only works with a narrow fork as the impact point would be behind the top fork with a high anchor and you would have to anchor lower to see the target. A pipe shooter, I've figured out, can be bent in more or straightened out more to actually sight in the sling shot in the vertical plane.


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## All Buns Glazing (Apr 22, 2012)

bc slinger shoots with a vertical slingshot, maybe he can chime in with his experience?


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## BC-Slinger (Jan 6, 2013)

I aim very similar to Master hays. The way I would like to explain it if it makes sense is.... I get my ammo pouched then get it comfortable and twist it thumb facing myself. Then my arm holding the slinger I make sure to have dead stright and anchored so there is no deviation in my shot. I have a small line in the center of the band towards the fork tip like many have mentioned before, IMO a very nice way to simulate a iron sight. I then focus on the line of the slinger then on my target back to the slinger momentarily then focus on what I want to shoot on the target and realease gently.

A few pics to help demonstrate what I mean.

 

Hope this helps a bit.

Cheers

BC-Slinger


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## All Buns Glazing (Apr 22, 2012)

Sorry BC, did I misrepresent your shooting style? I thought I saw a video of you the other day, shooting vertically, with a very short draw? Was that you, or someone else? I think it was for the 10m badge? I'll take a look.

Edit: Found it!


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## BC-Slinger (Jan 6, 2013)

All Buns Glazing said:


> Sorry BC, did I misrepresent your shooting style? I thought I saw a video of you the other day, shooting vertically, with a very short draw? Was that you, or someone else? I think it was for the 10m badge? I'll take a look.


No your not mistaken my freind did not notice you said vertical lol. I recentally switched to OTF. When I did sling OTT I used the left fork tip in a similar fasion. But ultimitally found Outside the fork to be the most accurate for serious slinging accuracy in my opinion of my style. Everyone has a different style that may suit there needs and build there confidence faster.

Cheers

BC-Slinger


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## All Buns Glazing (Apr 22, 2012)

Gotcha! I was kinda amazed you could get the accuracy you were getting with your previous style, to be honest. Have you seen much of a jump in your consistency or accuracy?


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## kenyaslinger (Jun 27, 2013)

The video and the pic shows a good illustration, thanks so much guys.As master Hays says, I will keep practising this over, and over, and over,.....


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## Aussie Allan In Thailand (Jan 28, 2013)

Hi Again kenyaslinger,

Just remember, reduce the variables to absolute minimum, and you are halfway there already.

Then it is just some practice, and hey presto, you are shooting consistently, of course from the same distance, and with the same ammo weight.

A little while after, and you learn to adjust for distance, and rise and fall of ammo, for distance.

Welcome to learning curve of us slingshot enthusiasts.

Cheers Allan


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## BC-Slinger (Jan 6, 2013)

All Buns Glazing said:


> Gotcha! I was kinda amazed you could get the accuracy you were getting with your previous style, to be honest. Have you seen much of a jump in your consistency or accuracy?


Over all I would say it is more consistent and OTF aloud me to have more accuracy at distance. Both styles worked for me though, I just liked the OTF and felt more confident while slinging that way. So I switched it up and was very happy with the results after some practice.

Cheers

BC-Slinger


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## Aussie Allan In Thailand (Jan 28, 2013)

Oh, and also do not be overwhelmed by other topics on here.

There are several exceptional shooters, who are pretty much in a league of their own, who rest of can but admire.
Also posts on active shooting etc.

However, all this demands at least a basic skill set; which initially has to be achieved by aiming for a few seconds first, before releasing.

After this is mastered, then one can go on to drawing and aiming and releasing faster, until it becomes one smooth motion; which increases power and speed of shot exponentially.

But one step at a time, okay.
And none of us got to the standard we are at now, instantly, as that simply unrealistic.

So same distance, same draw, to same anchor point, same weight of shot, same sight picture at 1 on top fork; and the shot pretty much has to hit dang near the same place every time. Provided the fork is held dead vertically and not twisted somehow, and your release is smooth; as in like relaxing but almost continuing to draw, so the pouch merely slips from your hand.

Then adjust P.O.A (Point Of Aim) so that the P.O.I. (Point of Impact) is where you are aiming. And wella, you are in the game, and learning.

Cheers Allan


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## Aussie Allan In Thailand (Jan 28, 2013)

Oh I forgot.

If you are doing it all correctly, and you shot range is likely 10, 12 gram or less.

Along with your range being around 10 meters.

Then IF your shots are vertically correct, but not target (?).

Adjust as follows; if they are high, move a little forward, until they are on target, and that is the range when the ammo rises to fork top for your draw length. Which as a beginner I suggest should likely be around 300%, not including relaxed rubber.
So if your relaxed rubber is 10 inches, or 25 cm; then draw to 40 inches; and I use these figures only as guide, for the mathematics only.

More likely select your chosen anchor point, then measure the distance to where you hold the slingshot, and work backwards from there for the length of ideal rubber. As stretching to 550% as I do, would place undue strain on you for repeatable accuracy. so as i mentioned before, baby steps at first, the rest will come in time.

If they are low, they have not yet risen enough, so walk back a little, until they have risen to your fork top.

Otherwise the only time they will be low is after they have reached their max height, and begun to drop due to gravity.
Which is unlikely, depending upon ammo weight, before 25 to 30 meters min.
Which I doubt you practicing over as a beginner.

Cheers Allan and Good Luck


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## kenyaslinger (Jun 27, 2013)

This is great Allan, thanks for taking the time to post this. My relaxed rubber length is 25 cm, my draw length is 96 cm.I shoot marbles but I don't even know their weight. I'm off work the next 2 days,I'll be doing nothing else but shooting. I will practise this!


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## Aussie Allan In Thailand (Jan 28, 2013)

As I said good luck.

This is not rocket science, and with a little practice you can work out fairly easily, okay at this shot range it will not rise to fork tip, so I need to place target in center of fork, and aim like halfway to tip.

Or to at longer range to hit a soda can, I need to aim fork tip at the base of the can to hit the can dead center.

Then you progress to different ammo weight, and if you are using standard glass marbles, mine weigh exactly 5.85 grams.
Of course that depends upon the size of the marbles; and I shoot them rarely.
Preferring 15 to 35 gram home molded lead shot. Usually 20 to 30 gram.

Hence why I use such heavy draw weight bands, to give me as flat a trajectory for such heavy ammo as possible.

And have built up to draw to such a percentage of stretch, even at 55 years of age.

Cheers Allan


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## Aussie Allan In Thailand (Jan 28, 2013)

Ummm correction, when I screw up, I screw up bad.

At short range, aim below the target, with the target like half way to the top of the top of the fork.

To the point sometime complete almost line of sight, middle of forks, and you strike dead center, at close range, and depending upon band sets, and weight of ammo, this can be from like 6 meters, to almost 10 meters.

Dang, I can be the worlds worst screw up sometimes, or often, explaining what I know, but putting into typed words, ummm nah.

Cheers Allan


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