# Should beginners train with very light balls + bands?



## Pedroito (Aug 22, 2021)

Hello,

I use 8mm steel and 1836 bands (not like i know what it means lol). Also have 1842 but I think they are the heaviest of the two.

I have read that chinese shooters use lighter bands and 6mm steel.

1) Is it a good idea to train as a beginner?
2) If so, where should I order some? (i'm in france)
3) And finally, does the frame matter much for using lighter bands? or if a slingshot can handle heavy bands, then it can handle light bands too?

ty


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## SteveJ (Jun 24, 2020)

Pedroito said:


> Hello,
> 
> I use 8mm steel and 1836 bands (not like i know what it means lol). Also have 1842 but I think they are the heaviest of the two.
> 
> ...


Im sure much more knowledgeable folk than me will follow up, but as a 1.5 year shooter , I can tell you what worked for me. It looks like a lot of good shooters use 8mm and the tubes your using I believe would correspond well w/your ammo weight. A couple months with lighter bands will probably help your shooting, and be easy on your body, bbs .177 or 1/4 is what I used. I think they have helped me , Im doing mostly 8mm and 1/2 clay now. I like flat bands. If you google Slingshot bands , try snipersling bands, I bet you come up w/ a lot of places that can supplyyou. Keep shooting your tubes, then start watching youtube for how to cut flatbands , til you get some. So much info its great. I can honestly say , this has been the best hobby /fun Ive found since I was a much younger man. Have fun!


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## Booral121 (Jan 6, 2019)

I say start as you mean to go on .use what your going to use if your hunting once your ready go with a set up for that keeping everything the same no alterations means less changes in your shooting you will proceed to a higher level quicker .then once your a confident consistent shot then mix it up a bit because you will understand your ammo weights your distances a bit better and therefore find the allowances you need to incorporate in your shooting to allow for these factors .I think anyway but first I would recommend finding your correct fork width to suit your comfortable anchor and reference points 🎯👊👍👌 (again these are just my thoughts)


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## Talaman (Sep 13, 2019)

This is an interesting thread and difficult for me to answer. As above, I can only tell you my experience. I started with 9.5mm ammo and Thereband gold. I switched to 8mm and newer band rubbers after a month or so and I am still shooting and enjoying catapults (oops! sorry, slingshots) A new friend from the forum introduced me to 6mm, I want to like this for targets only shooting but am finding the small size harder to release smoothly and accept it may be my bad technique but I am experiencing far more unexplained flyers with the 6mm, so am not yet convinced I should go that way?


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## rowbow (Jul 12, 2021)

I use 6mm and 8mm steel for the target shooting, .8 flat bands ott, the pouch should match the size of ammo, double dimple pouches give you a good ball location = fewer fliers.


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## Booral121 (Jan 6, 2019)

Wh


rowbow said:


> I use 6mm and 8mm steel for the target shooting, .8 flat bands ott, the pouch should match the size of ammo, double dimple pouches give you a good ball location = fewer fliers.


What taper are you using for 0.8 with 6mm and 8mm ammo 🎯 is that not a bit heavy for that ammo


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## HOE (Nov 13, 2010)

I started with bike innertube and office rubber ring chains and shot rocks before Mr. Flatband gave me some real latex flat bands and proper pouches, no idea of the size or whatever code nowadays latex bands have, just cut to the size that is suitable for the weight of ammo I use, lead balls...

Get a wide fork. Whatever frame you choose or make, make sure it's safe. A strong fork is better for any kinds of bands regardless of draw weight. Better safe than getting a piece of broken wood, plastic or metal to the face.


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## High Desert Flipper (Aug 29, 2020)

The 0.8 bands are likely over powered for 6 and 8mm ammo. If you try 0.5 bands you will likely find the ammo flies just as fast, or maybe even a bit faster, with around half the draw weight.


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## prototypicalDave (Jun 1, 2021)

I would say that it's a good idea to learn to shoot starting with lower power setups, yes.
It's a lot like learning to play a musical instrument. It's better to start out slow and make sure you get everything right before you speed up. Otherwise you're just learning to suck at high speed.
For this reason I've been using mainly 1632 tubes with 8 and 9.5 mm steel set up in a single tube per side config. I don't have a clue about ammo speed, but they produce enough velocity with 8mm balls that ammo drop is negligible at 10 meters. Due to the ease with which I can hold these tubes at full pull, I find that I can focus on different aspects of my technique and really take time to woodshed each part in isolation. The shot is also slow enough that I can feel each individual stage of it unfolding. From the release to the recoil of the tubes retracting back through the forks after the ammo is released. There's a definite rhythm to it that I believe is important to be able to feel. This has allowed me to learn how all of the various bits of technique contribute to hitting the target by learning what a good shot feels like. This is an important channel of information that I didn't have with high power bands. With higher power rubber, everything just happens too fast to really notice the feel of the shot. Also smaller ammo demands more precision with less energy expenditure. More precision means better shooting. Less energy means longer lasting gear.
As I progress, I'm sure that I will want to start using heavier bands, but I want to be able to drop at least 8 of 10 shots into 30mm circles before I worry about how much energy I'm missing my target with 😁 .
Also, I second the dimpled ball locator pouch advice for preventing fliers and fork hits.


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## Pedroito (Aug 22, 2021)

prototypicalDave said:


> I would say that it's a good idea to learn to shoot starting with lower power setups, yes.
> It's a lot like learning to play a musical instrument. It's better to start out slow and make sure you get everything right before you speed up. Otherwise you're just learning to suck at high speed.
> For this reason I've been using mainly 1632 tubes with 8 and 9.5 mm steel set up in a single tube per side config. I don't have a clue about ammo speed, but they produce enough velocity with 8mm balls that ammo drop is negligible at 10 meters. Due to the ease with which I can hold these tubes at full pull, I find that I can focus on different aspects of my technique and really take time to woodshed each part in isolation. The shot is also slow enough that I can feel each individual stage of it unfolding. From the release to the recoil of the tubes retracting back through the forks after the ammo is released. There's a definite rhythm to it that I believe is important to be able to feel. This has allowed me to learn how all of the various bits of technique contribute to hitting the target by learning what a good shot feels like. This is an important channel of information that I didn't have with high power bands. With higher power rubber, everything just happens too fast to really notice the feel of the shot. Also smaller ammo demands more precision with less energy expenditure. More precision means better shooting. Less energy means longer lasting gear.
> As I progress, I'm sure that I will want to start using heavier bands, but I want to be able to drop at least 8 of 10 shots into 30mm circles before I worry about how much energy I'm missing my target with 😁 .
> Also, I second the dimpled ball locator pouch advice for preventing fliers and fork hits.


Exactly what I thought.

What is that "dimpled ball locator pouch" tho??

I also feel like 8mm is already very small for my hands, so 6mm would be troublesome to handle, but lighter bands 1632, why not??

ty all


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## prototypicalDave (Jun 1, 2021)

Pedroito said:


> Exactly what I thought.
> 
> What is that "dimpled ball locator pouch" tho??
> 
> ...


Here's one example.








GZK Pit Locating Pouch Brand-new Super Fiber Pouch 10 pcs


GZK Pit Locating Pouch Brand-new Super Fiber Pouch 10 pcs



trade.onloon.net




I got one with a random amazon latex tube order last month and it's become my favourite.

I shoot 9.5mm steel with single strand 1632 all the time with good results, so I can't think of any reason why you shouldn't.


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## Pedroito (Aug 22, 2021)

oh i saw this too and thought it must be very good to use such pouch


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## rowbow (Jul 12, 2021)

Booral121 said:


> Wh
> 
> What taper are you using for 0.8 with 6mm and 8mm ammo 🎯 is that not a bit heavy for that ammo


I find it soots my style of shooting, 20/15 taper


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## Booral121 (Jan 6, 2019)

Even 


rowbow said:


> I find it soots my style of shooting, 20/15 taper


at that do you not still get hand slap


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## rowbow (Jul 12, 2021)

No, everything is good, just keep your aiming hand still after the shot.


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## Booral121 (Jan 6, 2019)

Ah me personally I don't use any higher than 0.65 in any brand of elastic unless its snipersling yellow then I use 0.70 👌👊


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## Tobor8Man (Nov 19, 2020)

Shoot clay! Forgiving of different band set ups, should minimize harm from fork hits, environmentally safe, will survive several shots into a catch box and lots of fun for targets of opportunity.


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## vince4242 (Jan 11, 2016)

I started shooting 9.5 mm Steel and have slowly gone down in size to 6 mm or quarter inch steel and that's where I shoot all my Target now. I did shoot 1632 s with my lights set up but have really liked my .5 flats at a 10 x 15 taper. It does a great job with 8 mm and 6 mm steel at 15 M are closer.
Another thing to remember is that you can go between hunting ammo and the very small ammo as long as your fork width is the same for both. I shoot superlite ammo but I can grab my hunting slingshot and have the exact same aiming and anchor points but with a much heavier draw. I like the light stuff because you can shoot it all day and when it's cold outside it takes less latex to send it down range at speed.


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## Pebble Shooter (Mar 29, 2014)

Slingshot shooting shares certain aspects with archery, where one generally starts out with a recurve bow in the 25 pound draw weight category to learn proper techniques right from the beginning. Likewise, a band set (or tubes) with a light draw weight calibrated for smaller steel ammo in the 6 to 8 mm diameter will make it far easier for novice slingshot shooters to gradually acquire correct slingshot holding, aiming, and pouch release techniques. 

If anything, starting out with band sets that have high draw weights are likely to discourage novice shooters because of the added physical effort of controlling slingshot frame and pouch alignment relative to the target: the likelihood of faulty pouch releases will affect accuracy and increase the risk of fork hits - something we all prefer to avoid for obvious reasons. A light band or tube set enables novice shooters to take their time while aiming and shooting, without the onset of fatigue linked to excessive draw weights and subsequent errors. As you increasingly master good pouch release techniques with weaker sets of band or tubes, you will gradually find it easier to handle stronger band sets. 

After all, you would not want to learn shooting handguns in .44 caliber, but rather with a low recoil .22, right?

A slingshot frame designed for strong band sets or tubes can of course be used with a weaker set of bands or tubes. In fact, this is probably better, because you will develop a certain familiarity and successful shooting style with the slingshot frame you mostly use from the beginning. 

Last but not least, I would recommend using a fixed anchor point to place the pouch holding hand (side of the mouth, cheekbone, etc). Wider slingshot fork widths require a lower anchor point, and vice-versa for narrower slingshot forks. By doing this, you will find that your accuracy will rapidly improve, and that this experience will also help you once you start shooting slingshots with a so-called "floating" anchor point i.e. where the pouch holding hand does not make contact with the side of the mouth, cheekbone, etc. and longer draw lengths to maximize power (know as the semi and full "butterfly" technique).

Have a look at this instructive video regarding correct shooting technique:






Happy shooting!


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## Pebble Shooter (Mar 29, 2014)

A good source for slingshot accessories is the reliable seller Piao Yu at Aliexpress (China): 



AliExpress.com


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## SteveJ (Jun 24, 2020)

Pebble Shooter said:


> Slingshot shooting shares certain aspects with archery, where one generally starts out with a recurve bow in the 25 pound draw weight category to learn proper techniques right from the beginning. Likewise, a band set (or tubes) with a light draw weight calibrated for smaller steel ammo in the 6 to 8 mm diameter will make it far easier for novice slingshot shooters to gradually acquire correct slingshot holding, aiming, and pouch release techniques.
> 
> If anything, starting out with band sets that have high draw weights are likely to discourage novice shooters because of the added physical effort of controlling slingshot frame and pouch alignment relative to the target: the likelihood of faulty pouch releases will affect accuracy and increase the risk of fork hits - something we all prefer to avoid for obvious reasons. A light band or tube set enables novice shooters to take their time while aiming and shooting, without the onset of fatigue linked to excessive draw weights and subsequent errors. As you increasingly master good pouch release techniques with weaker sets of band or tubes, you will gradually find it easier to handle stronger band sets.
> 
> ...


 I agree 100% Guess we all have what we believe to be true from different experiences, and I sure agree with you here,,,, thanks you for being more eloquent & informative that I am


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## JimmyRustler2244 (Sep 20, 2021)

Pedroito said:


> does the frame matter much for using lighter bands? or if a slingshot can handle heavy bands, then it can handle light bands too?


The frame's not a huge factor, but it helps to have a frame that's ergonomic. Most slingshot frames are made of Polycarbonate and the like these days too, so if anything they're more than strong enough for heavy bands and ammo 👍

It definitely helps to start with light bands and smaller ammo. It'll help with a multitude of rookie errors and bad habits, in my experience anyway.


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## Roll Fast (Sep 19, 2021)

Pebble Shooter said:


> Slingshot shooting shares certain aspects with archery, where one generally starts out with a recurve bow in the 25 pound draw weight category to learn proper techniques right from the beginning. Likewise, a band set (or tubes) with a light draw weight calibrated for smaller steel ammo in the 6 to 8 mm diameter will make it far easier for novice slingshot shooters to gradually acquire correct slingshot holding, aiming, and pouch release techniques.
> 
> If anything, starting out with band sets that have high draw weights are likely to discourage novice shooters because of the added physical effort of controlling slingshot frame and pouch alignment relative to the target: the likelihood of faulty pouch releases will affect accuracy and increase the risk of fork hits - something we all prefer to avoid for obvious reasons. A light band or tube set enables novice shooters to take their time while aiming and shooting, without the onset of fatigue linked to excessive draw weights and subsequent errors. As you increasingly master good pouch release techniques with weaker sets of band or tubes, you will gradually find it easier to handle stronger band sets.
> 
> ...


A late response to an older post for sure; but you are so correct.
I have been an archer for over 5 decades and taught hundreds of people how to shoot.
And the number one problem for most beginners IMHO - and some experienced archers - is being "over bowed".
A very fast miss is still a miss. Accuracy (precision) trumps velocity.
Thank you for your comment. Very well spoken.


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