# I Don't Have Access To Linseed Oil



## DaveSteve (May 16, 2012)

I don't have access to linseed oil where I live.
What would be a good alternative oil.
Would I mess up my frame with 'motor oil' or cooking 'vegetable oil', eucalyptus massage oil







?


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## worserabbit (Apr 16, 2012)

Try canola oil


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## porcelanowy (Oct 16, 2011)

Hello
Any polymerizing oil would be OK.
Don't know about motor oil







and wegetable oil will probably become rancid and smell bad








One of my axes i have sprayed with WD40 and it holds water outside pretty good.


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## All Buns Glazing (Apr 22, 2012)

I would have thought you'd be able to get some wood finishing waxes and oils in phils. Do you live in one of the cities?


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## DaveSteve (May 16, 2012)

I have to drive one hour to get to the next bigger city.
Just came from there today but I did not think about wax ect.
All in my mind was linseed oil and I could not find it there.
Next time I go there I will look in a hardware store.
I think I will find something you mentioned.
Thanks guys.


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## Henry the Hermit (Jun 2, 2010)

Never mind. I went to the website and that company only sells finished furniture.


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

You do not want to ruin a frame. I have posted this information before, but it seems another reminder is in order.

Some oils are "siccative", meaning they "dry" ... really, they oxidize and form a hard substance, rather than evaporate, so "dry" is not a good word. Anyway, so-called boiled linseed oil from the hardware store is a siccative oil. Or if you go to an art store, you can get a variety of siccative oils ... walnut, poppy, hempseed, pine nut, castor. Other oils, like standard motor oil, olive oil, canola oil, and like the mineral oil in baby oil, never "dry"; they stay runny virtually forever. Your frame may absorb a non-siccative oil, but it will always feel oily to your hand. But a siccative oil will set up to a hard finish.

The phrase "boiled linseed oil" refers to an old process of making linseed oil set up faster ... basically it involved a very careful and controlled heating and cooling process. These days, "boiled linseed oil" is made by a chemical process, with the addition of hardeners, which has the same effect.

I would seriously avoid motor oil or vegetable oil from the grocery. Go to a hardware or paint store and they should have boiled linseed oil.

As an alternative, you could use paraffin wax or bees wax. Surely you can find candles at some local store.

Cheers ...... Charles


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## DaveSteve (May 16, 2012)

Charles said:


> You do not want to ruin a frame. I have posted this information before, but it seems another reminder is in order.
> 
> Some oils are "siccative", meaning they "dry" ... really, they oxidize and form a hard substance, rather than evaporate, so "dry" is not a good word. Anyway, so-called boiled linseed oil from the hardware store is a siccative oil. Or if you go to an art store, you can get a variety of siccative oils ... walnut, poppy, hempseed, pine nut, castor. Other oils, like standard motor oil, olive oil, canola oil, and like the mineral oil in baby oil, never "dry"; they stay runny virtually forever. Your frame may absorb a non-siccative oil, but it will always feel oily to your hand. But a siccative oil will set up to a hard finish.
> 
> ...


Thanks Charles. Great info.


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## Northerner (Nov 9, 2010)

Tung oil is a good alternative to Linseed oil.


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