# January 2018 Slingshot Build Challenge



## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

It's a new year, ladies and gentleman.

I hope you were able to accomplish everything you set out to do in 2017.

A new year warrants a visit back to the basics. Board cuts are some of the most dead simple frames to make.

I am personally fond of them because there's not much by way of quality forks down here in South Florida, but a lovely piece of hardwood can be had at the lumber shop for a decent price. I can head to a Ross or a Walmart and get an inexpensive laminated cutting board easily. (I might be a little biased.)

I first got the making bug about two years ago when I made a frame for a family friend who lost his wife and needed an easygoing hobby to keep his spirits up. Mark is still thumping cans at least every other day, and I have gone on to make literally dozens of bomb-proof, basic bamboo/HDPE shooters for friends and family - and really anyone who asks, if I'm being honest.

I've also realized that though board cuts might be one of the simplest expressions of slingshot framing, it can be deceptively deep. A 3/4" board can be cleverly beveled and shaped to feel much more substantial than it is. If you've ever handled a Chalice with a skinny waist and awed at just how solidly you can still grip it, you know what I mean! Many a time, a half-complete shooter surprised me with it's ergonomics after I beveled only one sides' edges.

*So for January 2018, Slingshot Forum, I challenge you to build a Board-Cut frame.*

Laminates are 100% acceptable. Banded or not, attachment hardware or not - makes no difference! Woods, plastics or anything in between, show me what you can do!

I'm currently working on a laminate myself that I should be able to submit soon!


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## mattwalt (Jan 5, 2017)

Sweet - will see what I can knock up. Scateboard decks OK?


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## Abenso (Apr 28, 2017)

I've never made a board cut but I am excited to see what my new dremel can do.

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## Ibojoe (Mar 13, 2016)

Here we go!!


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## mattwalt (Jan 5, 2017)

Saw a reddish hardwood plank (maybe cherry) on the street corner - may go foraging later.


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## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

A friend gave me 2 scraps of iron wood. each is just big enough for a slingshot. I'm skeptical about cutting it out with a coping saw or jig saw. My best bet would be to find someone with a band saw to cut it for me. I know that way, I would not mess it up. I know I can handle the rasping and sanding .Maybe a cabinet shop???? Any suggestions????


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

Why not check to see how a metal hacksaw blade will cut it?


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## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

flipgun said:


> Why not check to see how a metal hacksaw blade will cut it?


Thanks, I will give that a try. After all it is called Iron Wood.


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## mattwalt (Jan 5, 2017)

Yeah JR - what Flipgun said. Some hard woods can be quite easy to work with, and each can have its unique quirks. I'd probably use plastic/metal working tools to start with, and take it slow. I have used a wood blade in my coping saw to cut micarta which worked fairly well...


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## Hobbit With A Slingshot (Mar 14, 2017)

If I finished the frame in late December, but only got the pictures up today, is it still admissible to this contest?


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## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

Hobbit With A Slingshot said:


> If I finished the frame in late December, but only got the pictures up today, is it still admissible to this contest?


Don't ask, Don't tell


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## mattwalt (Jan 5, 2017)

LOL - this isn't a contest. But add it to the January SSOTM (Its acceptable there no problem - as its debuted only now)


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## Can-Killa (Feb 2, 2015)

First board-cut. Fugly but it was a good learning experience. Borrowed jigsaw with a dull blade made it fun to cut.
3/4 plywood with a mahagony veneer which I ruined when filing so decided to remove all of it. I used a rub-on woodstain to try to hide the plywood but it didn't really work. I have a few more to make that have the veneer and will be more careful. I also have some Birdseye maple hardwood that I'll get to soon and submit another. Thanks for challenge and inspiration!


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## Slingster (Apr 13, 2016)

I have a few in the works. Also have some homemade micarta that I have been working on. Hopefully that will get done soon, but it will have its own thread. I plan to head out to the shop tonight to make one of Bill's Sm OTT Rangers. If I get that done I will post it here.


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

When using that type of ply, rasp from the center out and use sandpaper to knock the edges down a bit.


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## MIsling (Sep 7, 2017)

Got some progress on this chunky little fella. Still a lot left to do though.
















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## Hobbit With A Slingshot (Mar 14, 2017)

I've got two here, both cut out of a 3/8" thick cutting board (made by Oneida, if that means anything to you, and it feels incredibly stiff and pretty dense), and both designs that I've been wanting to try for some time now. One is a Bill Hays Micro Hammer, the other is a kestrel that I made by modifying Gopher's GS-12 template. *A big thank you to Bill and Gopher for posting their templates for all to use!* Pictures (man it is nice having access to a good camera):

The Micro Hammer:





















The Kestrel:















**Essay alert!** :neener:

Yes, they both need lanyards, and I should probably do some more smoothing of the fork tips. I had bulked up the fork on the micro hammer, and as a result, it's not as comfortable as I would like it to be (but still perfectly shootable). I plan to make another fork where the arms have more of a pronounced upwards curve (inspired by the core's renditions of the micro hammer and SERE), and where the finger and thumb ramp thingies follow the original template, so that should solve the slight ergonomics issue but it will prevent that fork from fitting in the tin with the handle. Oh well, it's a trade off I'm willing to make. The bands on the micro hammer are just stuck in the front of the slot and wrap around the outside of the fork, it actually works pretty well for single layer TBG, and as long as you don't pull off to the side it remains secure (the bandset shown is 3/4" wide, I only tested up to 1"--and I saw little to no flex with the 1", unlike when I pulled on the assembled frame with my bare hands alone, so it might be able to go higher, who knows?). The slot is whatever width the blade on the coping saw cut. The whole thing fits nicely into the tin, with a bandset, and there's room left for ammo.

On the kestrel, those are spent .22lr shells filled with a dowel serving as band plugs, and they work great! I'd noticed that in the pictures of Gopher's kestrels, there seemed to be something of a tradition of band plugs going on, and I'd been wanting to try it out anyways, so why not? It's not quite small enough to fit in the altoids tin, but I can always shrink my template down.

I'm really liking this cutting board so far, and I want to try some sort of top slot, but I figure I'd best test if it's thick enough (and if I can do it by hand without screwing it up) on some scraps first. I may also go for the storm trooper look using gorilla tape and Simple shot black latex...

Thanks for putting up with the rambling, and I hope you enjoy the pictures!


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## Can-Killa (Feb 2, 2015)

Can-Killa said:


> First board-cut. Fugly but it was a good learning experience. Borrowed jigsaw with a dull blade made it fun to cut.
> 3/4 plywood with a mahagony veneer which I ruined when filing so decided to remove all of it. I used a rub-on woodstain to try to hide the plywood but it didn't really work. I have a few more to make that have the veneer and will be more careful. I also have some Birdseye maple hardwood that I'll get to soon and submit another. Thanks for challenge and inspiration!


Design = Tom's Ergo
Thanks indeed to all that post their templates for all to use


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## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

Couple of really cool board cuts so far, guys. We're picking up speed!

Can-Killa - that's all you really need! The beauty is in the simplicity. Stain worked out well if you ask me. Excited for the next one!

Ethan - is that the Lucky Seven? Proportions look great. I'd love to see how you work that curve into the final product.

Hobbit - I'm a big fan of the cutting board slingshot myself. How did you finish them? I like to sand to 220 and leave it there, I feel like that's a good mix of grip and softness.


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## MIsling (Sep 7, 2017)

SlingNerd said:


> Couple of really cool board cuts so far, guys. We're picking up speed!
> 
> Can-Killa - that's all you really need! The beauty is in the simplicity. Stain worked out well if you ask me. Excited for the next one!
> 
> ...


It is a template from the templates section on here. It's called the Derringer. Very similar to the Lucky Seven in size though. I am still not sure exactly what I am going to do with the fork tips. The curve could be problematic for ott, and while it lends itself to ttf, the gap is pretty small.
Next to my lucky seven.









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## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

MIsling said:


> SlingNerd said:
> 
> 
> > Couple of really cool board cuts so far, guys. We're picking up speed!
> ...


You could drill holes to make it a tube shooter and take advantage of the curve. Of course this would make it a BB shooter given the size and all.


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## MIsling (Sep 7, 2017)

Good point, up until now I had only been thinking about flatbands. I want to go with something that won't be super limiting, and It's plenty thick, so holes are a good idea 

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## raventree78 (Apr 20, 2016)

Hobbit With A Slingshot said:


> I've got two here, both cut out of a 3/8" thick cutting board (made by Oneida, if that means anything to you, and it feels incredibly stiff and pretty dense), and both designs that I've been wanting to try for some time now. One is a Bill Hays Micro Hammer, the other is a kestrel that I made by modifying Gopher's GS-12 template. *A big thank you to Bill and Gopher for posting their templates for all to use!* Pictures (man it is nice having access to a good camera):
> 
> The Micro Hammer:
> 
> ...


Nice looking work there Hobbit. I've never had such good results from a cutting board. Just curious, do you make your own lanyards? If you'd like I can whip up a few for you


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## Hobbit With A Slingshot (Mar 14, 2017)

SN-So far I've just rounded the edges a little with my pocketknife, used some 100 and 180 grit sandpaper. and a file in a couple spots. I do plan to hit them with some 220 grit though, I'll see how that goes. The pocketknife is fine, but it's a little akward in places, and I feel like sandpaper would be a better choice for rounding and smoothing in a lot of areas. I may wrap the handle in gorilla tape, or I might make another handle. I made a slightly modified head, with the same band slots as before, but a little taller so that it'll accept my favorite 1" flats, and the finger/thumb ramp follows the original template. What with having two heads and one handle, I may just make another handle for the new head and drill it for a takedown pin, so that it more closely follows the original SERE model... these little takedown models are starting to feel a little addictive. :naughty: I'll probably make more out of this board and other materials...

Raventree78--Yes, I do make my own lanyards, usually just a single strand of paracord is fine. I did weave one for my rambone that doubled as a stabilizer, but the single strand is more than sufficient for what I do. As for the results, I think the board has more to do with it than me: as I noted in the post, the board seems fairly dense for its thickness, and it's stiff enough that I just had to bulk the original template up to just over 3/8 on the head, so it's a rectangular cross section. Thanks for the kind words and generous offer though 

MIsling--I'm interested to see how your derringer turns out. Did you use some larger PVC pipe as a core?

Now off to sand, fuse, and tie....


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## MIsling (Sep 7, 2017)

It's two layers of 3/8 thick large diameter pipe that I posted about in this thread. http://slingshotforum.com/topic/98529-jackpot/?hl=jackpot

I glued them together with pvc cement.


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## MIsling (Sep 7, 2017)

I was able to devote most of the day to working on this shooter, so I have it sanded to 220 I made the forks so that I can use flats in either ott or ttf, looped or tapered tubes, and possibly single tubes. On a thinner frame this would be very weak, but because of the thickness of this frame it is plenty strong for typical bands.

First I flattened the target side of the forks to give myself a reference to work from. 








Holes drilled








Slots cut and roughly shaped.








Wet sanded to 220.





























It fits the hand really well, I am going to give it a test run, and then clean it up and finish sand it.

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## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

MIsling said:


> I was able to devote most of the day to working on this shooter, so I have it sanded to 220 I made the forks so that I can use flats in either ott or ttf, looped or tapered tubes, and possibly single tubes. On a thinner frame this would be very weak, but because of the thickness of this frame it is plenty strong for typical bands.
> 
> First I flattened the target side of the forks to give myself a reference to work from.
> 
> ...


That's an amazing final product for what was previously simple, lowly PVC pipe!

Great stuff Ethan.


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## VAshooter (Feb 10, 2015)

You guy's are making some amazing frames. What's coming next?


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## mostho (Mar 28, 2017)

Sweeeet!!


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## Tag (Jun 11, 2014)

I agree 100% with VAshooter


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## Slingster (Apr 13, 2016)

I just finished building a Small Ranger ott from Bill's pattern. I really like this pattern and for some reason see, to be much more accurate with it then other frames. This one I made out of a nice straight grain piece of Cherry that I had left over from when I trimmed out the house I have been building.





  








Cherry Small Ranger




__
Slingster


__
Jan 10, 2018


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1



This is a Cherry slingshot I made from Bill Hays Small Ranger pattern. I really love this frame...


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## VAshooter (Feb 10, 2015)

I wonder if the cherry wood will darken with time as most cherry furniture and gun stocks do. Cherry usually takes on a very nice dark reddish color as time passes.


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## MIsling (Sep 7, 2017)

Looks great!

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## Slingster (Apr 13, 2016)

Thanks guys. I like the way it turned out. I need to get out to the shop and make the micarta. I had a design I have been developing that I was planning to make in micarta, but now I am thinking of making this small ranger in micarta as I think hat would be super cool.


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## Slingster (Apr 13, 2016)

I just came in from shooting my new frame about 40 times tonight at dark. It was around 32F with is really warm this time of year and went out walking the woods and shooting at night with a head lamp. I am just really impressed with Bill's frame. I have never been an OTT person, but this little frame is so accurate and fun to shoot. If you ahve not built one on the Small Ranger OTT template I would encourage that you do.


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## Tag (Jun 11, 2014)

You did one amazing job making the Ranger It’s a nice simple design, yet it has a high end appeal. Can’t wait to see your micarta version.


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## VAshooter (Feb 10, 2015)

Slingster said:


> I just came in from shooting my new frame about 40 times tonight at dark. It was around 32F with is really warm this time of year and went out walking the woods and shooting at night with a head lamp. I am just really impressed with Bill's frame. I have never been an OTT person, but this little frame is so accurate and fun to shoot. If you ahve not built one on the Small Ranger OTT template I would encourage that you do.


I haven't learned to shoot the slingshots I have now and you are convincing me that I need another one. How will it be possible to learn to shoot them all.


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## Hobbit With A Slingshot (Mar 14, 2017)

Okay, quick update on the micro hammer (not to :hijack: or anything)...

While testing it this morning, I had one band slip out of its slot after the shot, but that was due to me not keeping the bands straight while drawing, so the attachment is solid. I'd shimmed the fork with gorilla tape to get a better fit, and that helped reduce some minor movement. All in all, it was (yep, past tense, I'll get to that soon) a very comfortable frame. Well, I got a fork hit, and it shattered the outer edge bit of the slot on the fork, and a piece of the handle, rendering the handle and fork useless (and dangummit, I liked that frame :cursin: ). Little PSA here: the Oneida cutting board I used was High Density Polypropylene, which shatters upon fork hit, instead of denting like the HDPE that Bill Hays or Can Opener here on the forum use... So while the stuff is strong enough for the bands I used, it shatters when hit, so I will be relegating this board to fast prototyping only, and will not be giving away any frames made from it. Grrrr. Pics of the damage below. One possible upside of this expirience is that the scraps I have will make some fun reactive targets....









I'm fine, and I was wearing safety glasses at the time, so I guess it could've been worse.

Edit: that black band in the middle of the fork head there is the gorilla tape shim.


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## raventree78 (Apr 20, 2016)

Well that stinks for you Hobbit  that was a sharp little frame.


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## VAshooter (Feb 10, 2015)

I hope you make a new one with better material that is stronger and more reliable. I would not give up on the design.


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## Hobbit With A Slingshot (Mar 14, 2017)

Thanks guys  I think I'll reuse the original fork and make a handle drilled for a takedown pin, I've been itching to try it since I got the board.


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## mostho (Mar 28, 2017)

Hobbit With A Slingshot said:


> Okay, quick update on the micro hammer (not to :hijack: or anything)...
> 
> While testing it this morning, I had one band slip out of its slot after the shot, but that was due to me not keeping the bands straight while drawing, so the attachment is solid. I'd shimmed the fork with gorilla tape to get a better fit, and that helped reduce some minor movement. All in all, it was (yep, past tense, I'll get to that soon) a very comfortable frame. Well, I got a fork hit, and it shattered the outer edge bit of the slot on the fork, and a piece of the handle, rendering the handle and fork useless (and dangummit, I liked that frame :cursin: ). Little PSA here: the Oneida cutting board I used was High Density Polypropylene, which shatters upon fork hit, instead of denting like the HDPE that Bill Hays or Can Opener here on the forum use... So while the stuff is strong enough for the bands I used, it shatters when hit, so I will be relegating this board to fast prototyping only, and will not be giving away any frames made from it. Grrrr. Pics of the damage below. One possible upside of this expirience is that the scraps I have will make some fun reactive targets....
> 
> ...


HDPE is well strong enough. But your design requires a stronger tensile material or thicker/wider HDPE.

As far as I can see that deep cut where the forks are going to be is a huge stress point.

In addition its square cut.

That leads many stress goes towards the corners. I think again that a wider and thicker HDPE will not crack as this one. So it's a matter of force direction.

In addition, let's imagine for instance, a 12mm/1/2" thick HDPE will withstand any abuse and almost setup even the little Axion Champ.

But there are in this design no cuts, no slots where the band force can act, also imagine that a wall of 12mm thick and wide is going to resist to a band.

Design for the materials matters IMO.

Again with respect, IMO my2c


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## Tag (Jun 11, 2014)

That not good, glad you weren’t hurt seriously


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

Bump! I ain't working this hard to let this die. You have time! Get your ass to work!

I...uh... might be drinking, But, you can't prove it. :drinkup:

Ignore that emoji! It could be anyone.


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## VAshooter (Feb 10, 2015)

The little guy looks pretty happy to me. Looks like a Texan wetting his whistle.


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

Texans don't wet their whistle. They drown the damned things! :banana:


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## Abenso (Apr 28, 2017)

I gotta get a saw horse or something. I have all the materiels tools and design but haven't anything to clamp and cut on.

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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

Abenso said:


> I gotta get a saw horse or something. I have all the materiels tools and design but haven't anything to clamp and cut on.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk


http://slingshotforum.com/topic/25165-coping-saw-table/?hl=flipgun#entry318218


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## 31610 (Aug 20, 2017)

Pfs allowed in this ?


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## Ukprelude (Apr 17, 2016)

Port boy said:


> Pfs allowed in this ?


If it is in sure dgui would have this in the bag haha

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## Ukprelude (Apr 17, 2016)

Ukprelude said:


> Port boy said:
> 
> 
> > Pfs allowed in this ?
> ...


Whoops wrong thread thought this was the competition thread haha

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## 31610 (Aug 20, 2017)

Ha all good


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

Technically a board cut.









































Most of us have encountered a fork that Just would not get along with us. This was one, you either give up for a while or destroy them trying to make them comply. I gave up. Crape Myrtle that won the first round and I threw it in the flower bed for about a year. I dug it out and it had that nasty rubbery fungus growing on it. I put in the vice and using my reciprocating saw, cut a slab and worked out a pattern. The character marks are from where I had to load punky spots with CA. I used an oil that I got from Braziviking a few years ago to bring out the grain. I went down to 400 grit and #0000 steel wool. Oiled and waxed with beeswax mixed with mineral oil. Coated in 5-6 layers of Tru-Oil and buffed between layers. I still did not win. It wants to hold upside down to what I think it should. Sigh. At least I got it done before the middle of February.

Thanx for lookin'.


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## Can-Killa (Feb 2, 2015)

flipgun said:


> Technically a board cut.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Cool shape, I love the "imperfections", great character.

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## VAshooter (Feb 10, 2015)

Wow! What a piece of wood.


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## Can-Killa (Feb 2, 2015)

Here's my second attempt ever at a board-cut. Same 3/4 ply with mahagony veneer. It's my take on a Mule. With the exception of the borrowed jigsaw with dull blade it was done using rasps and sand paper. Difficult to get perfect round edges without a router, but again an awesome learning experience. Despite my carefulness I managed to get a chip on the veneer. Finished with 4 coats of Tru oil. It's banded up with tbb and manged to put a few hundred rounds into the catch box. Shoots well, I like it very much and I want one made out of non-ply, maybe even at an 80% scale. Thanks to all who share their templates so that knuckleheads like myself can butcher their art.


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## flatcap (Jan 12, 2018)

Can-Killa said:


> Here's my second attempt ever at a board-cut. Same 3/4 ply with mahagony veneer. It's my take on a Mule. With the exception of the borrowed jigsaw with dull blade it was done using rasps and sand paper. Difficult to get perfect round edges without a router, but again an awesome learning experience. Despite my carefulness I managed to get a chip on the veneer. Finished with 4 coats of Tru oil. It's banded up with tbb and manged to put a few hundred rounds into the catch box. Shoots well, I like it very much and I want one made out of non-ply, maybe even at an 80% scale. Thanks to all who share their templates so that knuckleheads like myself can butcher their art.


Nice Mule there. For rounding edges, I have found that draw filing works well. It allows for greater control as well as less chance of chipping.


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## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

C-K, you really made that veneered ply work for you this time. It's fickle stuff, I know. The Mule is an excellent frame and yours looks great. Should last forever! Awesome board cut.

I'm still slowly working on my entry for this month. My brand new saw broke. Very sad. Back to analog!


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## Can-Killa (Feb 2, 2015)

flatcap said:


> Can-Killa said:
> 
> 
> > Here's my second attempt ever at a board-cut. Same 3/4 ply with mahagony veneer. It's my take on a Mule. With the exception of the borrowed jigsaw with dull blade it was done using rasps and sand paper. Difficult to get perfect round edges without a router, but again an awesome learning experience. Despite my carefulness I managed to get a chip on the veneer. Finished with 4 coats of Tru oil. It's banded up with tbb and manged to put a few hundred rounds into the catch box. Shoots well, I like it very much and I want one made out of non-ply, maybe even at an 80% scale. Thanks to all who share their templates so that knuckleheads like myself can butcher their art.
> ...


Thanks for the advice. I don't have a shop or work space but am trying to get a small clamp-on vise that I can use on a table or something, will make sanding, filing, cutting easier and safer!.


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## Can-Killa (Feb 2, 2015)

SlingNerd said:


> C-K, you really made that veneered ply work for you this time. It's fickle stuff, I know. The Mule is an excellent frame and yours looks great. Should last forever! Awesome board cut.
> 
> I'm still slowly working on my entry for this month. My brand new saw broke. Very sad. Back to analog!


Thanks slingNerd for the kind words. 
Only shot it today and like the hell out of it! 
I have 1 more to finish up but this time it's not ply, hope to get finished and submitted soon, perhaps this weekend.


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## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

Can-Killa said:


> SlingNerd said:
> 
> 
> > C-K, you really made that veneered ply work for you this time. It's fickle stuff, I know. The Mule is an excellent frame and yours looks great. Should last forever! Awesome board cut.
> ...


It's clear you took your time on it, all the borders where the veneer meet the ply beneath are clean and even. Not knuckle headed at all, I'd say. Excited to see what you're working with now. What's your material this time?


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## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

flipgun said:


> Technically a board cut.
> IMG_1655.JPG
> IMG_1657.JPG
> IMG_1648.JPG
> ...


Needs a name as unique as it is itself. What kind of bands are you pairing with this, master Flip?


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## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

flipgun said:


> Technically a board cut.
> IMG_1655.JPG
> IMG_1657.JPG
> IMG_1648.JPG
> ...


Needs a name as unique as it is itself. What kind of bands are you pairing with this, master Flip?


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## Can-Killa (Feb 2, 2015)

SlingNerd said:


> Can-Killa said:
> 
> 
> > SlingNerd said:
> ...


I seem to learn something new with every try so that's pleasing. I'm using 3/4 birdseye maple


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## Ibojoe (Mar 13, 2016)

Always kind of wanted to try one of these "Top Shots" just never really liked plastic. This one is from five quarter hard maple.


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## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

ibojoe; that is a nice looking piece of craftsmanship. Great looking knockoff clone. Wish my woodworking skills came close to that.


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## 300BO (Jan 22, 2018)

VAshooter said:


> I wonder if the cherry wood will darken with time as most cherry furniture and gun stocks do. Cherry usually takes on a very nice dark reddish color as time passes.


You can put cherry in a window and let the ultraviolet light darken it, or you can force it. 1 tablespoon Red Devil lye (drain cleaner) in a pint of water, brushed onto the cherry will react with the tannic acid and cause it to change color (reagent). Rinse and neutralize when you get the desired color. WEAR GLOVES!


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## Hobbit With A Slingshot (Mar 14, 2017)

Jolly Roger said:


> ibojoe; that is a nice looking piece of craftsmanship. Great looking knockoff clone. Wish my woodworking skills came close to that.


Bill did post the template in the templates section of the forum, so I'm not sure if it counts as a knockoff... Maybe the word knockoff just has a more negative connotation in my mind right now, I don't know.


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## VAshooter (Feb 10, 2015)

300BO Welcome to the forum. We are all glad to have you as a member.

You obviously are knowledgeable with woodworking so you should be able to make valuable contributions to the forum.


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## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

Ibojoe said:


> Always kind of wanted to try one of these "Top Shots" just never really liked plastic. This one is from five quarter hard maple.


Finishing work is on point there Joe. How are you liking it?


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## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

Hobbit: perhaps I should have use the word clone or copy. Maybe something a bit jazzy like Rendition.


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## Hobbit With A Slingshot (Mar 14, 2017)

Granted, you did use the word clone in your post up there. But hey, whatever works.


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## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

For some reason I can't copy and paste here. I googled the definition of "Knockoff" and the first up is "A copy or imitation of an expensive or designer product". In other words, knockoff equals copy or copy is another way of saying knockoff. Semantics I guess and the positive or negative connotations or spin we chose to put on individual words or slingshots.


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## mattwalt (Jan 5, 2017)

JR - knockoff by definition - is usually considered an inferior imitation of a more expensive product. So is almost always associated as negative... Semantics. 

Plato had an interesting spin of that.

Interpretation - seems way less upsetting.


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## chuckduster01 (May 30, 2015)

Just a dead simple Baltic Birch ply laminated Chalice glued up and contoured/sculpted on the nose of the belt sander to fit my paw. One simply cannot go wrong with a Chalice......EVER in my opinion. (thank you DayHiker) I gave all the one's I had like this away over the last couple of years, so I had to make me another to fill the hole in the collection, it just happened to time out perfectly with this thread and it was all the excuse needed. :lol: It was given a couple of coats of orange tinted B.L.O then hit with some spar varnish. These and natties are the "workhorses" of my arsenal.


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## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

Nothing in any of the dictionary definitions referencing an inferior product. The common theme is a less costly or cheaper replica of the original. One dictionary did reference knockoff as an unlicensed less expensive copy. A knockoff could be a less expensive product that is also superior in quality of the original product.


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## mattwalt (Jan 5, 2017)

Thats a sweet chalice!

JR - its in the definition you sent - plain as day. "A copy or imitation of (especially - missing this word) an expensive or designer product"

A better definition is this - an unlicensed copy of something, especially fashion clothing, intended to be sold at a lower price than the original.


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## Ibojoe (Mar 13, 2016)

It will be given away not sold. Plus it's not an exact copy. It's just a frame that I liked. A friend said he liked it so I built him one. It's a gift but anything but a cheap copy. ..... chuckduster that's an awesome Chalice!! Nice work buddy!!


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## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

mattwalt said:


> Thats a sweet chalice!
> 
> JR - its in the definition you sent - plain as day. "A copy or imitation of (especially - missing this word) an expensive or designer product"
> 
> A better definition is this - an unlicensed copy of something, especially fashion clothing, intended to be sold at a lower price than the original.


Less expensive does not have to mean of inferior quality.


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## mattwalt (Jan 5, 2017)

True. Though to be fair - I didn't mention quality.


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## Ibojoe (Mar 13, 2016)

Thought this post was to encourage people to build and post their builds. Why would you tear down someone's build? Just because it looks like someone else's? I will encourage and promote Slingshots shooting and building. Im done


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## Ukprelude (Apr 17, 2016)

Jolly Roger said:


> ibojoe; that is a nice looking piece of craftsmanship. Great looking knockoff clone. Wish my woodworking skills came close to that.


I think if you feel the need to deliberatly point out the someone has used someone else's template then maybe 'replica' or a similar title would be a bit of a nicer term to use rather than dangling a worm hoping people will bite!

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## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

Picky Picky. Sorry about using the wrong politically incorrect word.


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## Hobbit With A Slingshot (Mar 14, 2017)

Well, we all make mistakes, so we might as well just accept that fact of life, learn from it, and move on from here. Seems like the wisest thing to do here.

Edit: correcting minor grammar issues.


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## Jolly Roger (Aug 14, 2017)

Hobbit With A Slingshot said:


> Well, we all make mistakes, so we might as well just accept that fact of life, learn from it, and move on from here. Seems like the wisest thing to do here.
> 
> Edit: correcting minor grammar issues.


Thanks; reminds me of the book we had to read in high school. 1984 by George Orwell.


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## Hulla Baloo (Nov 25, 2017)

*War is peace. Freedom is slavery. Ignorance is strength.*


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## Abenso (Apr 28, 2017)

And we're on a slingshot forum

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## Hulla Baloo (Nov 25, 2017)

Orwell loved slingshots- with proper supervision at all times.

edit: the irony, right?


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## VAshooter (Feb 10, 2015)

In Virginia it was warm yesterday and I was able to sit on the deck and shoot my slingshot. I was shooting my everyday slingshot with new bands and things went quite well. I wasn't building a slingshot but I was shooting one.

In the winter everyone seems to get bored and pretty soon we are picking each others posts apart over little things. In the summer we are all out shooting and don't have the time or inclination to bicker. The temperature is dropping now so I'm back inside.


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## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

Steady progress on this Olive Gamma. Had to sit and think for a long time about how I wanted to shape it.

The Padouk gamma I did for Misling a while back was gorgreously colored, but the grain was very simple so I shaped it uniquely.

Decided here that fancy grain speaks for itself and am going with a soft all-around rounded theme.
















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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

SlingNerd said:


> flipgun said:
> 
> 
> > Technically a board cut.
> ...


Sorry for the late reply Chris. I very seldom name any slings, but maybe "Wormwood" might be fitting. I am going with SimpleShot black with a 7" active cut and a home made pouch.


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

chuckduster01

I am a fan of the Chalice and ply. When the pics came up I said, "Day-Um! That looks Good!".

How did you tint the BLO?


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## chuckduster01 (May 30, 2015)

flipgun said:


> chuckduster01
> 
> I am a fan of the Chalice and ply. When the pics came up I said, "Day-Um! That looks Good!".
> 
> How did you tint the BLO?


Thank you. I added three to four fluid oz' of BLO to a small jelly jar then added a blob (about the size a kid would use in toothpaste to brush their fangs) of oil based artist paint to the BLO and shook the stuffing out of it. Let it stand for a few days to settle the clay and other paint leftovers/stuff out of the mix. Decant the good stuff off the top into a big test tube or another jar and walla.................O.T.B.L.O.


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## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

flipgun said:


> SlingNerd said:
> 
> 
> > flipgun said:
> ...


Fitting! Great build. Love the SS Black too.


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## 300BO (Jan 22, 2018)

SlingNerd said:


> Steady progress on this Olive Gamma. Had to sit and think for a long time about how I wanted to shape it.
> 
> The Padouk gamma I did for Misling a while back was gorgreously colored, but the grain was very simple so I shaped it uniquely.
> 
> ...


THAT is a fabulous piece of wood. Good wood needs no stain, just an oil finish to show its beauty.


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## Can-Killa (Feb 2, 2015)

SlingNerd said:


> Steady progress on this Olive Gamma. Had to sit and think for a long time about how I wanted to shape it.
> 
> The Padouk gamma I did for Misling a while back was gorgreously colored, but the grain was very simple so I shaped it uniquely.
> 
> ...


Man that's looking good!

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## VAshooter (Feb 10, 2015)

I'll be looking forward to seeing that wood with a finish on it.


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## raventree78 (Apr 20, 2016)

Ibojoe said:


> Always kind of wanted to try one of these "Top Shots" just never really liked plastic. This one is from five quarter hard maple.


Man that is beautiful, I like the look of the top shot. One of these times I will get me one  The finish on that wood looks so flawless, again very nice!


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

I had a stalled project on my desk, just cut and stuck together. It fell off of my desk and the square corner of the fork hit dead on the base of the nail of my big toe. After a few heartfelt comments,I said, "Alright Birch! We're on! I am going to fix you or fork you." I took it to the shop, fired up the belt sander and started hogging off material. I managed to pull this out of it.









































I was trash picking and found a Cedar tree that had been cut into disks about an inch to an inch and a half.

I have never worked with end grain much and did not realize how much it would soak stuff up. I used a really light oil instead of BLO, so inside light makes it look like Walnut. I think that if I had used BLO it would have looked like Ebony. There is a small Radial crack on the one face but I can live with it. Thanx for Lookin'!

(I just realized I got crud from the stand I was using on the forks in the photos. :imslow: )


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## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

flipgun said:


> I had a stalled project on my desk, just cut and stuck together. It fell off of my desk and the square corner of the fork hit dead on the base of the nail of my big toe. After a few heartfelt comments,I said, "Alright Birch! We're on! I am going to fix you or fork you." I took it to the shop, fired up the belt sander and started hogging off material. I managed to pull this out of it.
> IMG_1685.JPG
> IMG_1686.JPG
> IMG_1687.JPG
> ...


Top notch! As usual, I find myself envious of your finishing. Did you work from a template for this beauty?


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## VAshooter (Feb 10, 2015)

A great looking slingshot. I really like the pictures as well.


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

"Top notch! As usual, I find myself envious of your finishing. Did you work from a template for this beauty? "

Thank you Sir! Actually I worked with two templates. I am a fan of DayHikers classic Chalice and one his lesser known shooters, the Dragon Master. The project I mentioned was to take both of these templates, cut them in half and Frankenstein them together and see what I would get from them along with my style. This one is the cup of the Chalice and the handle of the Dragon Master. The other one is of course going to be the other way around.


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## Bill Hays (Aug 9, 2010)

Ibojoe said:


> Always kind of wanted to try one of these "Top Shots" just never really liked plastic. This one is from five quarter hard maple.


Looks nice, albeit quite a bit larger than the original.... kind of like a caveman rock hunter and topshot mix...

But I do have to object on one point though... I'd put my polycarbonate topshots strength, resiliency and ability to take abuse up against your hard maple any and every day... and I'll win every time... even though my slingshot is a lot smaller than your's!

In the years I've been involved in slingshots... I've tested just about every kind of wood, many different plastics, and all sorts of other materials looking for the perfect material to make slingshots out of... and polycarbonate is about as close to perfect as I've found...

Guys, the reason I posted so many templates in the templates section is for you to have fun and make something... it's all about promoting slingshots and the fun that's possible with them.

So make away, have fun, shoot, gift, sell or do whatever you want with what you make... I don't care... it's all about the greater.

After a while and enough differences from copy to next copy... eventually something new and different will be born.. and that too is another one of my goals and reasons for posting templates... innovate and have fun enjoying the creative process!

This applies to ALL the designs I have posted in the templates section.


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## chuckduster01 (May 30, 2015)

flipgun said:


> I had a stalled project on my desk, just cut and stuck together. It fell off of my desk and the square corner of the fork hit dead on the base of the nail of my big toe. After a few heartfelt comments,I said, "Alright Birch! We're on! I am going to fix you or fork you." I took it to the shop, fired up the belt sander and started hogging off material. I managed to pull this out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is Flippin gorgeous. I like that very much. Cool template thinking there. Hmmmmm :lol:

I was going to try to overlay some birch ply with osage endgrain but the endgrain simply exploded while drying.


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## Ibojoe (Mar 13, 2016)

flipgun said:


> I had a stalled project on my desk, just cut and stuck together. It fell off of my desk and the square corner of the fork hit dead on the base of the nail of my big toe. After a few heartfelt comments,I said, "Alright Birch! We're on! I am going to fix you or fork you." I took it to the shop, fired up the belt sander and started hogging off material. I managed to pull this out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Holly cow FG that's a nice save! Outstanding work!!


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## Can-Killa (Feb 2, 2015)

That's a beautiful piece right there! Love the circular grain!

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## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

You guys didn't think I'd flake out on my own challenge, did you?

Here's that Olive Gamma, finished last night! Sanded to 400, oiled three times. Looks like three small bottles of super glue wasn't enough to fill the empty grain inside after all.

Once I relized that this frame would still have voids in it I decided to finish it anyway as more of a piece than a frame, because it was just that pretty. Would probably still function fine as a BB shooter, or maybe one of you is a braver man than I and could do some kind of surgery to bring it up to snuff.

But boy is it pretty.


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## mattwalt (Jan 5, 2017)

SN - that is freaking awesome!!! Nice work!

How big is that bad boy? Would make an insane BB shooter.


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## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

mattwalt said:


> SN - that is freaking awesome!!! Nice work!
> 
> How big is that bad boy? Would make an insane BB shooter.


100% Gamma from our template section. It holds a little smaller though, since I rounded it off all the way around.


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## VAshooter (Feb 10, 2015)

mattwalt said:


> SN - that is freaking awesome!!! Nice work!
> 
> How big is that bad boy? Would make an insane BB shooter.


"Freaking awesome" is the best description of the grain in that wood and the slingshot built from it.


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## mattwalt (Jan 5, 2017)

Can't find that one... Looks like a diminutive Mule.

No - found it using a google search. I do like your interpretation of this - its nice.


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## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

http://slingshotforum.com/topic/2778-gamma/

Here's where I found it.

Apparently it was designed to fit perfectly in a Maxpedition Pouch. It also happens to be very comfortable and intuitive to shoot!


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## mattwalt (Jan 5, 2017)

Its actually a bit bigger than I assumed it would be - good smaller full-size frame.

I suspect scaled down like as much as 25% would make for an awesome BB shooter.


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## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

mattwalt said:


> Its actually a bit bigger than I assumed it would be - good smaller full-size frame.
> 
> I suspect scaled down like as much as 25% would make for an awesome BB shooter.


I probably should have taken a shot next to something for scale! It fills my hand, I wear XL gloves.


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## mattwalt (Jan 5, 2017)

I'm also an XL (occasionally a very large L). With conceal-ability I usually stick to 'pocketable' frames, if not micro...

Its almost like there are 3 breakpoints for gripped comfort - maybe dependent on finger joints...

I have the template now - may do some tinkering with it  - I suspect its a lot like a Mule / Wasp Deltawing / Vesa in approach and fit.


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## mattwalt (Jan 5, 2017)

Actually now I have the template - Its smaller than assumed. Its about the size I'd have liked to make it actually - good medium size frame.

75 x 105mm


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

LOvely grain and a fine execution. Olive is tough enough that it should shoot fine.


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## chuckduster01 (May 30, 2015)

SlingNerd said:


> You guys didn't think I'd flake out on my own challenge, did you?
> 
> Here's that Olive Gamma, finished last night! Sanded to 400, oiled three times. Looks like three small bottles of super glue wasn't enough to fill the empty grain inside after all.
> 
> ...


That is a beauty. I would not worry one ounce about the strength or integrity of that frame, but then again my last name ain't Sprave either.


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## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

chuckduster01 said:


> SlingNerd said:
> 
> 
> > You guys didn't think I'd flake out on my own challenge, did you?
> ...


Well thanks! I was hoping, before I had finished it and all, that I would end up with something I might be able to sell.

Got a trip coming in March and rental cars aint cheap!!


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## chuckduster01 (May 30, 2015)

SlingNerd said:


> chuckduster01 said:
> 
> 
> > SlingNerd said:
> ...


I would degrease the area of the cracks with acetone and fill them with a good epoxy (not the 5 minute crap) using a toothpick then sand it back flush. You may have to do this a few times to make it dead level. Then refinish the whole thing again. I work a lot with osage and honeysuckle and linear cracks are just part of the game with them two woods. I personally would tint the epoxy black with a small amount of oil based paint or a black powder paint and call it good. I tend to "set off" and "display" the natural things that cannot be hidden. That is just what I would do if I wanted to be dead sure about a frame that is going to another. YMMV and your opinion may well be very different from mine. Good luck and enjoy your trip. It is still a natural beauty whatever you decide.


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## Can-Killa (Feb 2, 2015)

My third board-cut ever and 2nd submission for this challenge. 
It's 3/4" Birdseye Maple. It's my take on the Deha, a template on the forum. It's smaller than anticipated but happy that it is, as I'm taking a liking to smaller frames. The Mule I made is great and shoots well but wish I made it smaller. This thing feels great in my hand and excited to shoot it. Its nice not having to worry about chipping out veneer as the 2 previous ones were veneer. I finished it with 4 coats of Tru-oil.
Thanks for setting up the challenge that has motivated so many of us to make some cool-*** shooters!


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## SlingNerd (Mar 15, 2017)

Beauuuuutiful grain on that, CK. The stripe is dreamy. 10/10


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## Can-Killa (Feb 2, 2015)

SlingNerd said:


> Beauuuuutiful grain on that, CK. The stripe is dreamy. 10/10


Thanks man!


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## Ibojoe (Mar 13, 2016)

That is an absolutely gorgeous frame!! Awesome work!!


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## flipgun (Nov 14, 2012)

That is a Truly nice piece! I really like that. Well Done!


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## VAshooter (Feb 10, 2015)

I like maple. A strong wood that is very predictable. Lots of different grain structures, curly, birds eye, some that is hard to describe.


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## raventree78 (Apr 20, 2016)

Can-Killa said:


> My third board-cut ever and 2nd submission for this challenge.
> It's 3/4" Birdseye Maple. It's my take on the Deha, a template on the forum. It's smaller than anticipated but happy that it is, as I'm taking a liking to smaller frames. The Mule I made is great and shoots well but wish I made it smaller. This thing feels great in my hand and excited to shoot it. Its nice not having to worry about chipping out veneer as the 2 previous ones were veneer. I finished it with 4 coats of Tru-oil.
> Thanks for setting up the challenge that has motivated so many of us to make some cool-*** shooters!


Hey just curious, what model of Spyderco is that in the pictures with the slingshot? thanks


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## Can-Killa (Feb 2, 2015)

raventree78 said:


> Can-Killa said:
> 
> 
> > My third board-cut ever and 2nd submission for this challenge.
> ...


It's called the Spyderco Captain.

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## Can-Killa (Feb 2, 2015)

Banded and shot! About three hundred rounds so far, very comfortable, intuitive and fun as hell. Loving these smaller frames!


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## MIsling (Sep 7, 2017)

Great looking frame, I may have to give that template a try!

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