# Pouch-topic



## Frodo

Hey everybody,

I' think the pouch is one of the most important factor's wich make a good shooter. I'm interested in all your different pouch styles.

Post them in here.






That is my favorite pouch. pretty light weight and it can easily manage 1/2 steel (or lead).

I use a jig for scribing:








Regards Friedrich


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## ZDP-189

I agree it seems important to me. I have heard many theories about pouch design and my own designs are constantly evolving. I like your taper idea.

I did some really light bands once. I'll have to look for the photos. They were under half a gram.


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## ZDP-189

Nylon mesh and 120lb test nylon cord 0.4g (0.014oz)










Nylon mesh and cotton thread stitching 0.2g (0.007oz)


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## Skit Slunga

ZDP-189 said:


> Nylon mesh and 120lb test nylon cord 0.4g (0.014oz)
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nylon mesh and cotton thread stitching 0.2g (0.007oz)


Do these super lightweights outlast the bands? - what's the life span? Questions from a cheapskate ...


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## ZDP-189

I started some tests and got distracted as the Chrony _still_ hasn't come. I think it's to early to call. In any case, I wouldn't shoot anything like this unless like me, you're just curious what would happen if the pouch was ridiculously light.


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## baumstamm

this is my best pouche. making it lighter with more holes dosn´t center the ball so good! but this need excelent lether!


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## Frodo

Yes, Baumstamm! It is a great pouch-style . I've got one and i copied it a few time!

And ZDP: I like your nylon pouch but are they nice to the touch? I think thats important, too!


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## Skit Slunga

ZDP-189 said:


> I started some tests and got distracted as the Chrony _still_ hasn't come. I think it's to early to call. In any case, I wouldn't shoot anything like this unless like me, you're just curious what would happen if the pouch was ridiculously light.


I've made a few of thin nylon webbing pierced with a large hot nail and reinforced with superglue ...and actually prefer them over leather. 
Not purty but functional and seems to have outlasted 2 sets of bands- still going strong after 1200 shots thusfar. The webbing is from a freebie neck key chain.





Have about 15# combined of 3/8" & 7/16" ball on this dankung 4 hole leather pouch...




I use biopsy punches for the center hole( 3.5mm and lightning holes use a 2mm) and washers for the ball form.


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## Guest

Skit Slunga said:


> I started some tests and got distracted as the Chrony _still_ hasn't come. I think it's to early to call. In any case, I wouldn't shoot anything like this unless like me, you're just curious what would happen if the pouch was ridiculously light.


I've made a few of thin nylon webbing pierced with a large hot nail and reinforced with superglue ...and actually prefer them over leather. 
Not purty but functional and seems to have outlasted 2 sets of bands- still going strong after 1200 shots thusfar. The webbing is from a freebie neck key chain.





Have about 15# combined of 3/8" & 7/16" ball on this dankung 4 hole leather pouch...




I use biopsy punches for the center hole( 3.5mm and lightning holes use a 2mm) and washers for the ball form.
[/quote]

actually the pouch with 4 holes is for 8 strands tube, the size is bigger.
we prefer to use the pouch with 2 holes if you use 4 strands tubes,1 hole for each size. so minimize the pouch size and heavy.


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## dgui

I have pouch envy.


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## Flatband

I use Double Cupped ,Single Cupped , straight, all cowhide and all between 4 -6 ounces. Some stiff leather,some soft leather. I've tried nylon,different fabrics,screening,poly mesh, but I always come back to leather. I guess it's just the feel of good old leather. My favorite right now is a Double cupped pouch. No other pouch has a better grip ( that I've tried). Flatband


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## pelleteer

Lots of good stuff here.







I usually use Trumark pouches that I mold into double cups and shorten a bit. I chop them off just behind where the factory holes are and then punch new holes of my own. I can also just punch for small holes for Dankung type tubing. I also have a couple of Baumstamm's pouches and they are excellent, very small and nearly weightless! Danny, I like the idea of nylon webbing. I've thought of it before, but I didn't know if it would hold up, so I haven't tried it.


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## Guest

nylon webbing material is good idea,maybe it is soft for me ,i like a little hard surface material.


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## JoergS

I really like the plastic pouches you find on the Saunders slingshots. They have a great grip, are really light and the attachment is truly elegant.

Regarding the weight, it is really important if you shoot lightweight ammo.

A 3 Gramm pouch weighs almost the same as a 3/8 steel ball, but less than 10% of a .75 lead ball...

So when I was hunting for the maximum speed with 3/8s, a super lightweight pouch and extremely tapered bands worked really well. But then the problem of the lengthwise tearing arises. So it is questionable if optimizing the weight of the pouch beyond a certain point makes much sense anyway.

Jörg


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## fish

some fine ideas here.


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## smitty

Just my two cents worth...I think of the pouches I have actually touched...Baumstamm, Flatband and Tex make some kinda awesome pouches. I used to think the pouch didn't matter too much, but boy was I dead wrong ! Now I think the pouch is the most important contributer to accuracy. I do like a soft pouch with just a touch of stiff to it.


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## Guest

JoergS said:


> I really like the plastic pouches you find on the Saunders slingshots. They have a great grip, are really light and the attachment is truly elegant.
> 
> Regarding the weight, it is really important if you shoot lightweight ammo.
> 
> A 3 Gramm pouch weighs almost the same as a 3/8 steel ball, but less than 10% of a .75 lead ball...
> 
> So when I was hunting for the maximum speed with 3/8s, a super lightweight pouch and extremely tapered bands worked really well. . So it is questionable if optimizing the weight of the pouch beyond a certain point makes much sense anyway.
> 
> Jörg


But then the problem of the lengthwise tearing arises,

it is right ,i personly think we would be best to choose a little strong and thicker leather with light weight when we hunt,normally the hard and strong leather is best choice if use higher pull flatband or tube.cz the hard leather will become a little soft after you shoot for a while and not easy to arise lengthwise tearing also.


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## Frodo

danny said:


> I really like the plastic pouches you find on the Saunders slingshots. They have a great grip, are really light and the attachment is truly elegant.
> 
> Regarding the weight, it is really important if you shoot lightweight ammo.
> 
> A 3 Gramm pouch weighs almost the same as a 3/8 steel ball, but less than 10% of a .75 lead ball...
> 
> So when I was hunting for the maximum speed with 3/8s, a super lightweight pouch and extremely tapered bands worked really well. . So it is questionable if optimizing the weight of the pouch beyond a certain point makes much sense anyway.
> 
> Jörg


But then the problem of the lengthwise tearing arises,

it is right ,i personly think we would be best to choose a little strong and thicker leather with light weight when we hunt,normally the hard and strong leather is best choice if use higher pull flatband or tube.cz the hard leather will become a little soft after you shoot for a while and not easy to arise lengthwise tearing also.
[/quote]

I use goat leather for my pouches since a few weeks. It's very thin and lightweight stuff AND it does tear. If you punch the holes right they will last

very long. acctualy i had no pouch wich broke. I don't like those thick pouches, the don't feel right.

Everyone should decide on his own!









Friedrich


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## frosty2

Hi folks,
I thought this might be a good thread to ask a question. My problem in shooting is that I lost my entire right thumb in a commercial fishing accident so I can not pinch the pouch like the rest of you. I pinch the pouch between my first and second finger, archery style, but with no string to hang on to it seems that all my effort goes into hanging on to the pouch and my release is poor with heavy bands. I have my slingshots for hunting and shoot fairly stout bands. I am looking for a pouch, trick, technique or suggestion that might improve the situation. You folks certainly seem like problem solvers and innovators so I thought I would toss this out for your help and ideas.

Thanks, frosty2


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## Performance Catapults

frosty2, that's the technique I use for holding the pouch as well, and I did pretty good with it at the Alverton tourny this year. I use Tex Express bands and have no issues. Only advice I can give is keep doing what you're doing. It's the technique I will be taking to my grave.


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## whipcrackdeadbunny

frosty2 said:


> Hi folks,
> I thought this might be a good thread to ask a question. My problem in shooting is that I lost my entire right thumb in a commercial fishing accident so I can not pinch the pouch like the rest of you. I pinch the pouch between my first and second finger, archery style, but with no string to hang on to it seems that all my effort goes into hanging on to the pouch and my release is poor with heavy bands. I have my slingshots for hunting and shoot fairly stout bands. I am looking for a pouch, trick, technique or suggestion that might improve the situation. You folks certainly seem like problem solvers and innovators so I thought I would toss this out for your help and ideas.
> 
> Thanks, frosty2


The Butterfly shooters grip on the underside of the pouch, opposed to the top, you could try that; from a bodily strength training point of view, I can't see why you can't acheive a satisfactory pull, unless you have tendon damage; just keep practicing and maybe strength train your fingers?


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## Tex-Shooter

Jim Harris and sometimes I use the index/middle finger pouch grip. Jim won a tournament using this grip. I used it the last half of the 2004 tournament that I won. My 16 pound express band sets are light enough to easily shoot using that grip. -- Tex


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## JoergS

frosty2 said:


> I have my slingshots for hunting and shoot fairly stout bands. I am looking for a pouch, trick, technique or suggestion that might improve the situation.


May I suggest a slingshot release? It is not OK to use one in a tournament (even though you may get a special permission because of your accident), but for hunting it works in any case.

There is no commercial product AFAIK, but you can make your own. I have a vid with a tutorial up on youtibe. A slight variation is needed so you can operate it with your index finger.

Good luck

Jörg


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## frosty2

Thanks for all the replies. I probably should have said that I don't have a problem with large ammo -- marbles, .45 lead and such, it is 3/8 steel and arrows that give me trouble. I have went with golf tees in place of knocks but they were still hard to grip. I tried large yellow wire nuts but they hit the rest and mess up the flight (Chief AJ HFX). Has anybody ever tried to make a pouch "sticky" on the outside. I have thought about maybe a leather / rubber laminate or impregnating the outside with silicone caulk. Well thanks again and hope all your shots are bulls eyes. frosty2


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## ZDP-189

I think releases aren't allowed in competition, but if you're shooting for fun then I suggest a short cord on the pouch hooked into a ring-type archery release.

Back on the topic of pouches, I've recently received two of baumstamm's slings and his pouches are excellent. They are thin and tough.


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## Flatband

Hey Frosty,
sorry to hear about your thumb accident. I can attest to what Jim (Performance Catapults) said about his pouch holding style. A lot of credit has to be given to Jim for trying a new hold and then working with it constantly,and then winning a Tournament -all within one year! It is an excellent style and holding method and with a lot of practice you'll be as smooth and as accurate as he is-good luck Bud! Flatband


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## Frodo

Only a few pictures of my new pouch. Thin leather and a pouch influenced by Baumstamm's and Fish's pouch.

















Have fun & good luck frosty!


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## mr.joel

Sorry about your grippage issues, frosty2. On the subject of pouches...I bought a leather jacket for about $10 in an ukay ukay(used clothing) store. I skinned it already and am thinking to stretch the leather on a frame before cutting out the pouches. What do you guys think? Good idea or not? Is this going too far and I'm being ridiculous or is it beneficial? I am sure at minimum this would reduce pouch stretching.


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## frosty2

Just curious. Has anybody tried impregnating the leather right around the pouch holes with epoxy in an effort to make it last longer? I may try that when I get some new leather.
frosty2


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## mr.joel

I think your better off wrapping/sewing a whip stitch around the holes.


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## Frodo

In my opinion leather is not to epensive. It takes me 2 minutes to make a pouch. A pouch (if you make it right and don't use to powerful bands) can last more than

3 bandsets. I never had a ripped pouch.


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## mr.joel

Yes, but if your leather is crap, it will rip, even with weak bands. look for a short nap in the leather as this is the best indicator of long lasting leather. A long nap will indicate it will tear, and besides, I think it might possibly interfere with your release(I go suede side out). Try to use chrome tanned leather, its usually got that color of the Trumark pouches. However be warned, this can often also be junk, hardware store gloves often use this leather but often is not as durable as chrome tanned leather should be. Again, look at the nap: it's you best and sadly only indicator of longevity, other than cuts in the hide made during the skinning process.


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## Tex-Shooter

I have went bback to top grain leather again, even though it will wrinkle a little when bent, but it is very strong. -- Tex


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## mr.joel

Tex-Shooter said:


> I have went bback to top grain leather again, even though it will wrinkle a little when bent, but it is very strong. -- Tex


That's part of why i'm wondering if I should stretch it on a frame, the material will also be more consistent.


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## whipcrackdeadbunny

mr.joel said:


> Sorry about your grippage issues, frosty2. On the subject of pouches...I bought a leather jacket for about $10 in an ukay ukay(used clothing) store. I skinned it already and am thinking to stretch the leather on a frame before cutting out the pouches. What do you guys think? Good idea or not? Is this going too far and I'm being ridiculous or is it beneficial? I am sure at minimum this would reduce pouch stretching.


I've used that leather before, I find the normal jacket leather too thin ('less it's cow-hide) but I doubled one over and sewed the edges, it's been going a long time and is very sensitive, because of the thinness. I don't think you'd need to stretch it first, but you could try.


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## whipcrackdeadbunny

mr.joel said:


> I think your better off wrapping/sewing a whip stitch around the holes.


Does whipping not move around the bands, where an epoxy would stay put?


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## whipcrackdeadbunny

frosty2 said:


> Thanks for all the replies. I probably should have said that I don't have a problem with large ammo -- marbles, .45 lead and such, it is 3/8 steel and arrows that give me trouble. I have went with golf tees in place of knocks but they were still hard to grip. I tried large yellow wire nuts but they hit the rest and mess up the flight (Chief AJ HFX). Has anybody ever tried to make a pouch "sticky" on the outside. I have thought about maybe a leather / rubber laminate or impregnating the outside with silicone caulk. Well thanks again and hope all your shots are bulls eyes. frosty2


I had an idea, have you tried pressing the pouch into your palm with your fingers, that might work, but it might make loading hard ... and I'm not sure, I have only just thought about it, but a sticky pouch might open before the release is in a suitable position, resulting in the shot going wild. Not sure though and it's a sound idea.


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## frosty2

whipcrackdeadbunny said:


> Thanks for all the replies. I probably should have said that I don't have a problem with large ammo -- marbles, .45 lead and such, it is 3/8 steel and arrows that give me trouble. I have went with golf tees in place of knocks but they were still hard to grip. I tried large yellow wire nuts but they hit the rest and mess up the flight (Chief AJ HFX). Has anybody ever tried to make a pouch "sticky" on the outside. I have thought about maybe a leather / rubber laminate or impregnating the outside with silicone caulk. Well thanks again and hope all your shots are bulls eyes. frosty2


I had an idea, have you tried pressing the pouch into your palm with your fingers, that might work, but it might make loading hard ... and I'm not sure, I have only just thought about it, but a sticky pouch might open before the release is in a suitable position, resulting in the shot going wild. Not sure though and it's a sound idea.
[/quote]

I'll give that a try. See if it affects accuracy.
frosty2


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## mr.joel

whipcrackdeadbunny said:


> I think your better off wrapping/sewing a whip stitch around the holes.


Does whipping not move around the bands, where an epoxy would stay put?
[/quote]
the epoxy would harden and end up cutting the rubber i think, i dont think the whipping would move as the rubber would lock it in place unless possibly you are using chinese tubes


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## mr.joel

whipcrackdeadbunny said:


> Sorry about your grippage issues, frosty2. On the subject of pouches...I bought a leather jacket for about $10 in an ukay ukay(used clothing) store. I skinned it already and am thinking to stretch the leather on a frame before cutting out the pouches. What do you guys think? Good idea or not? Is this going too far and I'm being ridiculous or is it beneficial? I am sure at minimum this would reduce pouch stretching.


I've used that leather before, I find the normal jacket leather too thin ('less it's cow-hide) but I doubled one over and sewed the edges, it's been going a long time and is very sensitive, because of the thinness. I don't think you'd need to stretch it first, but you could try.
[/quote]
I picked the one with the thickest leather and it is cowhide, ended up with a variety of thick and thin. I've noticed the sleeves seem to yield thicker leather on most leather jackets.


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## Paul

mr.joel said:


> Try to use chrome tanned leather...


Yup, that's what I now use. I get it from Oregon Leather, in their scrap barrels.


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## ZDP-189

If they fail, almost all pouches fail at the side of the punch hole. I could beef up that part of the pouch till it is no longer the weakest part of the bandset, but that would cost a little velocity and if a bandset is going to fail, then it's a relatively safe place to fail.

Insteadn what I'd really like is a disclosing thread or another structure similar to the coloured thread in safety harness straps that would show the user when the pouch is beyond it's useful life.


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