# Scroll Saw Or Table Router



## Henrygamer (Jan 31, 2012)

Alright I have come to the decision of scroll saw or a table top router. Given the fact I have a jig saw which has the most uses and would be a good buy.

Thanks
Henry


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## Thirston (Jan 14, 2012)

Both! Seriously, they're two different machines.

If you go with a scroll saw and plan on using it for any serious work, do yourself a favor and get something good. Like all tools, you get what you pay for. Delta, Dewalt and Excalibur make great scroll saws.

You already have a jigsaw so if you are limited to just one additional tool at this time... the router w/table would do more for you.

p.s. check out the forums here for scroll saw ideas in addition to Sling Shot frames . http://www.scrollsawer.com/forum/


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

Router all the way!!!

You can get perfect round overs with it as well as cut out frames from a template.

Using the router to cut out frames will give a much better finish that requires minimal sanding and is generally much quicker than a band saw or scroll saw.


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## Henrygamer (Jan 31, 2012)

All that can be done with a routing table? That's crazy, did not know that a router can cut things out.


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

You need to make a template first and attach it to the piece of wood you are cutting from. I usually use carpet tape, a cheap version of a double sided tape.

You then use a piloted flush cut trim bit with the bearing set at the right height to run along the edge of the template.


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## Henrygamer (Jan 31, 2012)

Sweet, I have been looking at some router bit prices and those things are expensive but I saw some cheap off brand bits is it OK to but these or is it better to get good bits.


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

I recommend buying say a cheap 20 piece kit until you get the feel for it and work out what bits you use most.

Then invest in some quality solid carbide bits of your choosing. Quality of the bits makes a big difference to their life span as well as finished quality.

For me it's a 1/4" roundover, 3/8" roundover, 1/4" round nose (band grooves) and a flush cut bit as pictured above.


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## Henrygamer (Jan 31, 2012)

Is is easy to use, or does it take getting used to?
Thanka for all the help by the way.


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

Fairly easy to use, practice on some scraps first. Getting the right speed is the trickiest bit. Too slow and you get rough edges, too fast and you scorch the wood. Around 15-18,000 rpm I find is the sweet spot for most of the woods I use. Acrylics I crank it right up to 30,000 rpm.

Most importantly, BE CAREFUL, they will take your finger tip off before you can even feel it.

Heaps of youtube vids out there on using them. Watch a few to get an idea of the techniques used.


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## KennyCannon (Aug 24, 2011)

Well I don't know really anything about either tool but I'll give my opinion. I just got a scroll saw on Friday. From my experience so far, it takes a lot of practice to cut out a decent frame. I thought there was something wrong with my saw when it consistently cut to the left but then I read on forums and websites that all scroll saw blades cut to the left and you have to compensate for it. It has something to do with the way the blades are stamped. Last night I managed to cut out a PFS that was somewhat straight and with a lot of work, it could be a decent shooter.

I know the scroll saw is a great tool for any workshop and can do a lot of things other saws can't, but I'm just saying it takes a lot of practice to get it right.

But I guess that goes with anything you do that's new. I was just disappointed when I found out that I can't even cut straight lines.


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## Thirston (Jan 14, 2012)

KennyCannon said:


> I thought there was something wrong with my saw when it consistently cut to the left but then I read on forums and websites that all scroll saw blades cut to the left and you have to compensate for it.
> 
> I was just disappointed when I found out that I can't even cut straight lines.


File the back right corner of the blade ever so slightly while it's running, before you start to work with it. That will help remove the burr that was left from the stamping process and help it track a little better.


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## The Gopher (Aug 25, 2010)

ROUTER TABLE!


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## jskeen (Feb 7, 2011)

I have to agree that the router table is the better tool for slingshots. A couple of hints. save money on the table and spend the extra on the router itself. A table is easy to knock together from just about anything, including salvaged furniture, ect. You don't need a fancy adjustable fence or a miter slot and such for what you will be doing on slingshots. Any smooth flat surface that you can mount the router into is fine. You also don't need a fancy machined aluminum mounting plate or height adjust mechanism. To start, drilling some holes through a tabletop or cabinet top is just fine. Once you get your router mounted solidly you can use the bits themselves to cut the center hole to the size you need. Eventually you may want to add some type of sheet steel or aluminum mounting plate to minimize the thickness of the top, and therefore use less extention on your bits, but that usually can wait too. Plenty of router bits have been used sticking up through a 3/4 inch tabletop.

General safety warnings, Never rout a small part like a slingshot by holding it with your fingers! A router bit will remove a finger right through the bone way faster than anybody can react to a kickback or catch. Routers all kick and catch, it's just the nature of the beast. Before you ever turn your new router on, make yourself at least a couple of good solid push pads and push sticks. Soft closed cell foam with adhesive on one side is available on the cheap as drawer liner or non slip backing. a 3 x 4 inch square of flat wood with a handle of some sort on the top and a layer of foam on the bottom will give you better results than holding by hand, and will ensure you can keep right on playing piano (or learn at some point) rather than having to learn to count in base 9.

As for routers, you can get a useable one for whatever money you have available. You always tend to get what you pay for, so buy the best you can afford, but then don't worry cause it's not the most expensive one out there, it will probably work just fine for a while. How long is of course, something you will find out for yourself. If you can, try to get one that takes both 1/4 and 1/2 inch shank bits. most of the cheap bits you start out with will have a 1/4 in shaft, but when you get ready to buy some good ones, 1/2 is better and not much more if you can use them. In general, a plunge router is harder to adjust the depth on while hanging under a table than one that you raise or lower by turning a collar, but is more versatile out of the table if you plan to do other stuff with it. But for a first router, you will probably get better quality for the price without the plunge feature.

show us what you end up with and we'll help out with any questions we can.


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## LVO (Sep 25, 2011)

Hrawk, 
Are you using the templates using the table router, or using the router with handles? I'm really looking forward to making some nice, clean templates so I can make faster cuts. Appreciate the help. I hope I was clear with my question. I think there's another awesome video tutorial opportunity for you!








thanks


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

I use mine as a table router. Stationary tool and moveable work piece. I find this gives much better control.


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## Karok01 (Jan 26, 2012)

Put simply Thirston gave you the answer I would give. If you do indeed have a jigsaw, then invest in the router table before the bandsaw. Your jigsaw is still gonna give you really nice roughouts as long as your stock wood you are cutting from is kept nice and steady. As for a router table, it can do a whole lot more than a bandsaw. Just be careful please! Routers can mess a hand up if you aren't careful! Safety first with those. Check this link out, Bill has a neat little tool to help him keep his fingers safe when using his router. 



Cheers,
Mike


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## XxDollarBillxX (Apr 28, 2011)

imagine that in this video he has a pattern for a slingshot
its really as easy as it looks


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## LVO (Sep 25, 2011)

Thank you! awesome link!


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## KennyCannon (Aug 24, 2011)

Thirston said:


> File the back right corner of the blade ever so slightly while it's running, before you start to work with it. That will help remove the burr that was left from the stamping process and help it track a little better.


That's a great tip Thirston. I'm going to try it out and hopefully it fixes the issue. I know a lot of guys use scroll saws to cut out slingshots so I know it can be done. I just have to figure it out. Thanks bud.


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## pop shot (Sep 29, 2011)

darn. i have that exact router and table. but not the wrench he's using. no wonder it's such a pain in the a$$


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