# show me how to sharpen my knife please



## NoSugarRob (Jun 3, 2010)

0o


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

They key to sharpening is to always maintain the exact same angle of the blade to the stone.

There are many systems out there that do this for you.
I own and use and recommend a Lansky system. They start at about $35 for the standard 3 stone kit and up around $99 for the deluxe diamond kit. I have the deluxe 5 stone which I paid about 50 bucks for.

I also have several of the Lansky mini sharpeners, excellent value @ $5

Check them out at http://www.lanskysharpeners.com/

Here's a vid http://www.youtube.c...h?v=KW64B0MZVOE

I'm a big fan of the wicked edge sharpener you linked and see my self owning one somewhere down the track. Not very portable though.


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## John-Boy (Oct 15, 2010)

I have a lansky mini sharpener, its in my fishing bag 24/7, very useful and cheap!!


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## philly (Jun 13, 2010)

Spydeco has a great kit for around $50, my son just bought one and it is very simple. Comes with a brocure and DVD showing how to. Fifty bucks may seem like alot but you can use it for many years to come.
Philly


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## bunnybuster (Dec 26, 2009)

Mostly I use a double sided diamond stone. Coarse and fine.
I also like the india oil stone.
I was taught by one of the best, many years ago. It took me awhile to get the knack..but now it is second nature to me.
Keeping the exact angle..constantly..is key. Good quality steel is also key.


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## Bill Hays (Aug 9, 2010)

The best thing I've found to use when sharpening a knife is a lapidary wheel. The type used for making facets on rock or even diamonds... but those can be pricey.

There is something you can use that can give you the same results, it just takes longer... and that is a Time Shaver sanding block. It can use regular sized sanding sheets that are cut to fit the face.
Using wet dry papers starting at 100 grit all the way to 2000 grit (for auto paint polishing) you can put a razor edge on almost any knife in about 5 minutes. 
There's cheaper brands, but I've found the Time Shavers are about the best. So for around $30, you can get the sanding block, the papers and a piece of leather for a finishing strop.

When you sharpen the knife you start with the edge facing you, and push away from yourself with a semicircular motion. Sharpen both sides of the blade an even number strokes, alternating every couple of strokes.


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## NoSugarRob (Jun 3, 2010)

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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

NoSugarRob said:


> @ Hrawk - John-boy .......... would this be ok ? its very simlar to the Smiths one I broke. Thanks to all for the advice.
> 
> http://www.lanskysha...s.com/LCSTC.php


I have owned one of those and gave it away. Same with a very similar model from buck knives.

The ceramic rods in that one are fixed in place. They wear in the same spot all the time and are next to impossible to clean the built up metal from.

Go for the mini http://www.lanskysha...s.com/LCKEY.php

The rods can be easily rotated, slide up and down (about 7mm) taken out and turned upside down offering much much more usable sharpening surface. Not that these ceramic rods wear very quickly, but if you are always presenting an edge to the exact same spot, it doesn't take long to create build up of metal particles on the rod as well as creating a flat spot there.

You can also remove them and clean with an old toothbrush and warm soapy water to keep them free of metal dust. I also like the smaller groove as it fits most knives exceptionally well and helps maintain a perfect angle when drawing the knife. Only on very thick blades do I use the larger opening.

Another bonus is the ability to use it as a fish hook or dart sharpener. You take the rods out and sit them in a groove on the side, holding them parallel and tightly together, running your pointy thing up and down the groove formed between them. Works REALLY well. One of these has a permanent position in my fishing tackle box.

It may not look as nice, but I think the mini is a much superior product. Hey, and its a buck cheaper too!

When you first start sharpening a knife with this sharpener, it may take many pull through with the knife until the angle on the blade is fitting the sharpener perfectly. I used it to sharpen a 4" folder which had a horrible factory edge. It probably took about 50-60 pulls through the sharpener to set the edge and get it razor sharp. Once this is done though, now for a quick touch up, only 4 or 5 pulls are necessary.


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## NoSugarRob (Jun 3, 2010)

nice one


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## John McKean (Dec 24, 2010)

Rob, The best I've ever used and a site with inexpensive TEACHING material for true razor edge knives is at : http://www.razoredgesystems.com/ Good luck!


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## Tex-Shooter (Dec 17, 2009)

Getting the knife sharp is one thing getting the knife sharp without taking the temper out of the blade edge for 1/000 back can be another. That is why cooling lubricant is used with bench stones. Diamond on metal stones may be used dry if you are carful. Even if sharpening with a diamond on metal stone, you must take your time, because a fast cutting stroke will heat the very edge of the blade removing the temper. If the edge temper is maintained at during the sharpening process the knife will stay sharp longer. I have sharpened 1000's of knives in several different ways, but I still prefer to use 3 bench stones that I have. It takes a lot of practice and acquired skills to sharpen a knife on bench stones though, so there is a lot of room for good well designed sharpening systems, but be sure that you pick one that takes the heat factor into account. -- Tex-Shooter


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## HOE (Nov 13, 2010)

I finally managed to get some dull box-cuter blades razor sharp. I use a small rectangular oil stone soaked in water, clamp down the blade on something flat, then drag the stone over the blade at an angle. It's sharp enough to shave some hair!


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## NoSugarRob (Jun 3, 2010)

I


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

Cool!

My oldest one is about 6 years old now, still going strong.


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## NoSugarRob (Jun 3, 2010)

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## Grafvitnir (Apr 21, 2010)

_"There is something you can use that can give you the same results, it just takes longer... and that is a Time Shaver sanding block. It can use regular sized sanding sheets that are cut to fit the face.
Using wet dry papers starting at 100 grit all the way to 2000 grit (for auto paint polishing) you can put a razor edge on almost any knife in about 5 minutes. 
There's cheaper brands, but I've found the Time Shavers are about the best. So for around $30, you can get the sanding block, the papers and a piece of leather for a finishing strop."_

With sandpaper you can use Juranitch's method (http://sharpeningmad...itch1977Feb.htm) , or these:

http://sharpeningmadeeasy.com/ward.htm

http://gpvec.unl.edu...wTo-DDG-2K7.pdf

You can try the "Scary Sharp System" http://www.woodbutcher.net/scary.shtml

http://wood.bigelows...scary_sharp.htm

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=4--HIDogrc8

http://www.youtube.c...feature=related

I've used it (Scary Sharp for knives) combined with knife sharpening theory (Juranitch and Bottorff) and it works very good. The theory (waiting for the burr, correct angle, microbevel) is important.

Hope it helps

Rubén

PS. I forgot this link: 




What is important is technique, not equipment


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## NoSugarRob (Jun 3, 2010)

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## NoSugarRob (Jun 3, 2010)

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## NoSugarRob (Jun 3, 2010)

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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

The Mini Lansky sharpens at approx 22.5 degrees.

It may take a while with a knife you first start sharpening for the geometry of the blade to match the sharpener.

Make sure you are holding the knife perfectly vertical with the Lansky sitting on a hard flat surface. Draw the knife through a few dozen times.

Take a very close look at the edge. Which part is being smoothed out? Is it the very edge or further back? A magnifying glass or loupe is very handy for checking this if you have one around.

When you first start sharpening with a unit like this, you will find that your pulls through the sharpener feel rough, like dragging something across a piece of sandpaper. Eventually you will feel the draw start to smooth out and finally it will start sliding through like a well greased bearing. The harder the blade steel, the longer it will take to sharpen.

What knife are you trying to sharpen btw ? How blunt was it to start with? How many times have you drawn it through the sharpener already?

To give some examples. I was away on a camping trip last year and a friend had this machete that was about as sharp as a spoon. Kicking back with a few beers and talking crap as we do, it probably took about 400-500 passes with the Lansky to achieve hair popping sharpness, mainly do the the re profiling of the blade that needed to be done before the ceramic rods even started making contact with the cutting edge.

Another knife I purchased recently came reasonably sharp from the factory, could shave a few hairs but left most behind. About 20-30 pulls through the Lansky, this one now shaves as clean as a razor.

Stick with it man, you WILL get there.

EDIT : I've attached a quick pic to help explain.

In the left pic, you can see a new blade that does not have the correct profile yet, when using the sharpener you are removing material further back from the edge.

In the right pic, the blade has the correct profile by this time and now the sharpener is making contact with the actual cutting edge.

Your blade will not start to sharpen UNTIL your profile of the blade matches that of the sharpener as shown in the right pic. Once this happens, it will go from blunt to sharp with just a few more strokes.


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## dgui (Jan 12, 2010)

It is Ez to sharpen any knife without an elaberate array of stones and oils.


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## NoSugarRob (Jun 3, 2010)

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## pelleteer (Dec 19, 2009)

dgui said:


> It is Ez to sharpen any knife without an elaberate array of stones and oils.


 Yikes!







I was waiting for you to slice the end of your thumb off!







Definitely effective, though.









Rob, there's really no way to truly sharpen a knife, especially after damage to the edge like denting or chipping, without a certain degree of skill. Even the well known clamp systems (Lansky, SMith's, etc.) take a degree of practice and skill to use effectively. The various pull throughs, crock sticks, etc. do a fair job of maintaining a good cutting edge, but you have to have a decent edge (even bevels, etc.) to begin with. As Hrawk noted, they _can_ be used for reprofiling, damage repair, etc., but are hardly ideal for such use, imho. Like Tex said, using benchstones takes a lot of practice to get good at. In fact, I'm just finally "getting" it after years of off an on practice with them, thanks to doing tons of reading at various knife forums. The method I've been using for the last few years that works great is convexing on sandpaper over leather (mousepad can be used too). Take a look at these vids:

Sharpening

Even if you're a no hoper with benchstones (as I was until recently







) this method is very easy to pick up. It's similar to using stones, but as the guy says in one of the vids it's more forgiving of slight variations in blade angle. Give it a shot.


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## dgui (Jan 12, 2010)

I have fixed chips in a knife blade before by going with a coarse cheap 2 dollar stone from a supermaket and keep it wet under running water and put the entire edge both sides very wide. Yes you will have a deep cutting edge and you can still sharpen it to shave. You can also file it out. I dont think you can go so fast by hand to change the temper with wetting it. Or send it back to the company and change the blade if it is not so bad they will reshape the blade for you.


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## NoSugarRob (Jun 3, 2010)

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## NoSugarRob (Jun 3, 2010)

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## pelleteer (Dec 19, 2009)

I should have also mentioned that the guy shows a full convex ground knife in the videos, but you can use the same technique to convex just the edge bevel on a more typical knife.


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## dgui (Jan 12, 2010)

NoSugarRob said:


> It is Ez to sharpen any knife without an elaberate array of stones and oils.


i see you've done that before mate. I think I'd of lost finger tips trying this








[/quote]

The coarse sharpener in the video is one I have had for about 12 or more years in fact the cover finally wore off. I think I may have paid 6 dollars for it. I had this sharpener attached to my nail bag to sharpen my utility blade or at least to dress it up a bit. You can get larger and longer ones. These even come the size of a wallet and about 1/16 inch thick so you can carry it in your back pocket. Dry or wet they work just fine. If I would have sharpened it longer and then hit it on some leather you could shave your face with it. I like things uncomplicated, it's is just more harmonious.


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## NoSugarRob (Jun 3, 2010)

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## pelleteer (Dec 19, 2009)

Yes, the edge will be converted from two specific fixed flat angles (like 20 degrees per side for example) into two gradual curves. That's why it's easier to do. You don't have to hold as exact an angle. Check out the illustration in the link. Notice how the V edge is two flat intersecting planes while the convex edge is two intersecting curves.









Edge Types


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## dgui (Jan 12, 2010)

Very simply you reshape the edge every time you swipe the edge of the blade on a hard surface. When a knife already has an edge ground on the blade and after some cutting this cutting action changes or manipulates the finest part of the edge. So when you re-sharpen a knife by swiping it across a hard fine surface you are not taking away from the blade ( in general ) you are in truth only stratening the finest part of the edge. Unless you are purposfully removing metal from a knife blade the size of a knife blade over a lifetime of use will not be reduced. Many years ago when Old Timer was manufacturing soft steel for ease of sharpening I use to sharpen my work knife on the job by swiping it across a 2 by 4 stud. This only straightened the edge and brought it back in line.


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## NoSugarRob (Jun 3, 2010)

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## Rayshot (Feb 1, 2010)

NoSugarRob said:


> its gettin all complicated again
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I agree that the convex is probably the easiest. With my flooring business I don't carry around blade sharpeners but i do have various grits of sand paper. There are a few tools that I eventually need to put an edge on. Nothing like a knife because of the coarseness of the paper grit and abuse the blade is used for. I simply find a flat surface, even if it yields a little like they mention using a mouse pad. Rub it on one side for a while, switch to the other side. To get it really sharp move to a higher grit and start spending less time on each side before switching.

As all the sharpening systems do; is to follow the principle of choosing a type of bevel, coarse to fine grit and alternate the side of the blade being sharpened.

One thing to keep in mind I had to work on when I learned how to sharpen a knife for chip carving (these knives are scary sharp when finished) is patience. Accomplish one step completely then the next.


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## dgui (Jan 12, 2010)

Simple, in say the old days when there were actually Barber Shops. Good steel was was used for the straight razors and I recall when a man paid for a shave and a haircut. The Barber never pulled out a sharpening tool but instead a leather strop. My father had one and it served two purposes, one was to hone his straight razor to shave the 2nd usfull purpose was to whale the tar out of me. However to drive home this one thing, the leather strop was used to make the cutting edge straight again for shaving. Hence once the pocket knife has a working edge you do not have to grind or sand or file. When speaking of tool sharpening such as things that may hit nails for screws then you will have to resort to removing some material to put back an edge. Drill bits concrete breakers, cutters on planers and finely crafted knifes each require different approches for sharpening. Thats all.


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## Rayshot (Feb 1, 2010)

dgui said:


> Simple, in say the old days when there were actually Barber Shops. Good steel was was used for the straight razors and I recall when a man paid for a shave and a haircut. The Barber never pulled out a sharpening tool but instead a leather strop. My father had one and it served two purposes, one was to hone his straight razor to shave the 2nd usfull purpose was to whale the tar out of me. However to drive home this one thing, the leather strop was used to make the cutting edge straight again for shaving. Hence once the pocket knife has a working edge you do not have to grind or sand or file. When speaking of tool sharpening such as things that may hit nails for screws then you will have to resort to removing some material to put back an edge. Drill bits concrete breakers, cutters on planers and finely crafted knifes each require different approches for sharpening. Thats all.


Yeah Darrel, the practice of maintaining a keen edge is an aspect of knife sharpening makes for much happiness. Maintenance makes for less work.


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## pelleteer (Dec 19, 2009)

NoSugarRob said:


> its gettin all complicated again
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Have no fear. It's not as complicated as it sounds.







Don't worry about any details right now, just focus on putting a new, clean, even edge on your blade. Think of it as starting fresh. Your blade probably has multiple different bevel angles on it now from being pulled through different sharpeners with different angles on them. Continuing to attempt to get it sharp this way (especially by trying even more sharpeners with even more different angles to them







) is just going to lead to more frustration. Try out the convexing method and I think you'll be pleased. Probably best to try it out the first few times on a cheap knife just to get a feel for what you're doing, then move onto your nicer knife/knives.


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## NoSugarRob (Jun 3, 2010)

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## whipcrackdeadbunny (May 22, 2010)

Ray Mears taught me everything I know about sharpening knives ... check out his youtube stuff






For me, small circular motions, as I use it to cut in all directions.


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## MelaniePalmero (Jul 29, 2011)

Hi NoSugarRob! Chef Phil has so much in store for sharpening ideas. You might wanna check it out. Hope it will help.


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## strikewzen (Jun 18, 2010)

i've recently started carving a blackthorn natural that Mr. Marcus Sr sent me

ran into the sharpening problem in like 5 minutes, this thing is tough...
so went and bought some knives from my airsoft shop...




  








25092011128




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strikewzen


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Sep 25, 2011


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sharpening is pain...






i tried a gatco ultimate diamond kit but it ruined my blade.... so i gave it to girlfriend for her kitchen knives

i bought 5 DMT diamond stones(dia-sharp) online costed around 350 dollars lol... let's hope i get my skills up soon
right now practicing on some japanese waterstones


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## AlmostHuman (Jul 10, 2011)

Crikey , you could of got yourself a 3M Scarey sharpening set-up for less , totally foolproof as well .....


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## pelleteer (Dec 19, 2009)

strikewzen said:


> i bought 5 DMT diamond stones(dia-sharp) online costed around 350 dollars lol... let's hope i get my skills up soon
> right now practicing on some japanese waterstones


$350 is a bargain, considering those diamond plates will last several lifetimes (pass 'em down to the kids if you have any) as long as you don't use crazy pressure on them and dislodge the diamond particles from the plate. The DMT D8XX (extra, extra coarse) is perhaps the ultimate tool for reprofiling edges or repairing severely damaged edges. If you didn't buy one in that group of 5 you just got, I'd strongly suggest adding one when you can. Water stones give fantastic edges (especially for final polishing), but they dish out faster than most other types of stones and require (comparitively) frequent flattening (the DMTs work well for flattening water stones, btw).


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

its simple, so many different ways to sharpen. go to you tube key in knife sharpening, and you will get more info than anybody really needs, its also a fun hobby


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