# 1/4" vs. 3/8" Aluminum Rod



## pawzzz (Jan 15, 2010)

I have made several aluminum rod slingshots with 1/4" stock. They were relatively easy to make, were accurate, but just didn't have a sturdy feel. I obtained some 3/8" stock and made a few. Oh what a difference that extra 1/8" makes! They are rock solid. The only problem I encountered was the 3/8" stock broke the pine wooden base of my jig. I substituted a heavy, hard plywood and that solved the base problem.


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## NightKnight (Dec 16, 2009)

Very nice! Do you have any pictures of the jig?


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## smitty (Dec 17, 2009)

Very nice slingshots! You could also use a metal base for your jig and bolts to bend around.


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## christopher (Jan 8, 2010)

I saw my dad's creations first hand this weekend and got some tips-n-tricks on how he made them. He's being modest, the 3/8" aluminium fork is strong enough to be a gardening tool. I won't steal his thunder, he worked hard on them.


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## Flatband (Dec 18, 2009)

I just use a short length of pipe and a vise and make marks with a Sharpie on the rod. I broke a few in the beginning but now I know to go SLOW!! Here's a few pictures:



Flatband


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## dgui (Jan 12, 2010)

pawzzz said:


> View attachment 279
> I have made several aluminum rod slingshots with 1/4" stock. They were relatively easy to make, were accurate, but just didn't have a sturdy feel. I obtained some 3/8" stock and made a few. Oh what a difference that extra 1/8" makes! They are rock solid. The only problem I encountered was the 3/8" stock broke the pine wooden base of my jig. I substituted a heavy, hard plywood and that solved the base problem.
> View attachment 277


Nice clean look. I think you can adjust to the 1/4 inch flex when shooting. Can you provide the overall measurements? Duluth has a small pocket bender that is advertised this month.


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## Warhammer1 (Dec 27, 2009)

NICE!! Its good to know Im not the only one using "primitive" bending techiques LOL!. The vice and pipe work great. I found though that if I took a grinder to the vices "bending" surfaces rounding them off instead of leaving square, it makes for a stronger bend and less marring of the wireform. The nicks a sharp edge leaves will be the weakest part of the bend. Also, the metal is left stronger not having to make such a sharp bend.

Thats some fine work flatband, thanx for pics.

W.



Flatband said:


> I just use a short length of pipe and a vise and make marks with a Sharpie on the rod. I broke a few in the beginning but now I know to go SLOW!! Here's a few pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> Flatband


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## pawzzz (Jan 15, 2010)

AaronC, here are the pictures you requested. My jig is a piece of plywood with holes drilled at one inch intervals. I have inserted two pivots that are three inches apart. The pivots consist of a 1/4" dia. bolt, a 1/4" nylon washer, a 1/4" steel sleeve, a washer and a nut. Screw the bolt, nylon washer, and sleeve into the plywood and secure it on the other side with the washer and nut - leave just enough "play" to allow the sleeve to rotate. Secure the jig in a bench vise. Mark and place the rod in the jig where you want the bend. Secure the rod with a scrap of 2X4 that you tighten down with a C-clamp. There is a piece of blue painter's tape on the jig that you mark with the angle you want to bend the rod to. Making sure to wear safety glasses and leather gloves, then use a scrap piece of 2X4 to slowly push the rod to the angle you have marked on the blue tape.

This is a thumbnail of the process I use; it doesn't cover the initial 180 degree bend, some special clamps I have made to hold the rod (instead of just pushing with a 2 X 4), and forming and finishing the tubing attachment horns. I have a few more to make for my son and grandson. If there is interest maybe I'll photograph the process and do a series of "How I Did It" posts. Take care, Pawzzz


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## jmplsnt (Jan 1, 2010)

Good post and some useful information here. I especially like the simple jig made from obtainable materials. I must say that while I love the feel of a board cut or good natural fork I have never been able to come anywhere even close to duplicating the accuracy I got from my bent-brass killer. I bent it out much like Flatband with a vise, Sharpie Marker, and small cheater-pipe. I do like the jig idea as a man can bang them out once you settle on the final product.


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## NaturalFork (Jan 21, 2010)

I have bent a few using 1/4 inch. It is the same that trumark uses so i figure it is strong enough. Is the 3/8 much harder to bend when compared to the 1/4 inch?


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## Flatband (Dec 18, 2009)

Yeah, the jig is the way to go guys. I don't have one made up yet but it is on my wish list too. Flatband


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

Great post!! And nice slingshots both of you. Thanks.


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## Henry the Hermit (Jun 2, 2010)

pawzzz said:


> View attachment 279
> I have made several aluminum rod slingshots with 1/4" stock. They were relatively easy to make, were accurate, but just didn't have a sturdy feel. I obtained some 3/8" stock and made a few. Oh what a difference that extra 1/8" makes! They are rock solid. The only problem I encountered was the 3/8" stock broke the pine wooden base of my jig. I substituted a heavy, hard plywood and that solved the base problem.
> View attachment 277


I use 5/16 aluminum rod. It seems a good compromise, and does not show any flex. I'm now using Fimo to make grips. Here's a sample.


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