# Steel ammo = 3/8", 7/16", or 1/2" for optimal hunting?



## JuantonSoup

Hey guys; first post! So I've jumped into the slingshot scene recently after I went camping a few weeks back. My friend brought a few of his slingshots, and other than hiking around, we spent a good amount of time plinking targets.

Needless to say, it was quite fun, and as soon as I got back, I ordered a Trumark FSX-2000. It arrived yesterday, so now I'm deciding what size of *steel* ammo to get. The FSX-2000 comes with a Trumark RR-T (tapered, red) band.

I plan on sticking this in my survival pack for possible hunting. So out of the three steel ammo sizes (3/8", 7/16", and 1/2"), which one would you guys suggest for optimal small-game hunting?

On the Trumark website, they state that they don't recommend any ammo larger than 3/8 inch "_since it becomes too heavy, and is unsafe if used improperly._" Is this true?

On my camping trip, we were using 3/8" steel balls for plinking, but to me, 3/8" still seems a bit too light/small. Would a 7/16" or 1/2" be too much for the RR-T band to handle? Would the increase to the 7/16" or 1/2" be more efficient at hunting? What are the advantages/disadvantages of each size?

Just a side note: I _don't_ plan on using lead ammo -- only steel. Suggestions appreciated!


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## Charles

In my opinion 3/8 inch steel is too light for anything bigger than quail, pigeons, and frogs. If you intend to hunt pheasants, grouse, ducks, or rabbits, I would suggest using the 1/2 inch steel. I have no idea why Trumark advises against the heavier ammo. Personally, I have never hear of anyone having problems with it. No doubt others will come in with their suggestions.

Cheers ........ Charles


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## Litebow

Trumark says on their website that the sizes larger than 3/8 constitute to much of a richochet hazard so they don't sell the larger sizes. I guess they have different lawyers than the companies that do sell larger sizes. Go figure.

Dave


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## JuantonSoup

Charles said:


> Trumark says on their website that the sizes larger than 3/8 constitute to much of a richochet hazard so they don't sell the larger sizes. I guess they have different lawyers than the companies that do sell larger sizes. Go figure.
> 
> Dave


Ah, that makes sense.

I mean, if people were plinking at cement walls or hardwood trees, I could understand why Trumark would put that disclaimer there.


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## Charles

There has been a lot of discussion in this hunting section about the difference between penetration and blunt force trauma. I believe that most think blunt force trauma is most important (that is certainly my belief). I suggest you try the search function and look for "trauma" and for "penetration".

Although theoretically air resistance plays some role in velocity, at slingshot velocities and the ammo weight in question, you can ignore air resistance. The biggest change in velocity comes from the mass of the ammo. How the velocity falls off with mass depends on a number of factors ... the temperature, the bands being used, and your draw length, primarily. I do not know of any studies on this forum that have been done on the RRT tubes. That being said, for the velocity range and mass range in question, you will get much greater energy with heavier ammo. If you want to deposit more energy on your target, use heavier ammo ... within reason - do not try shooting bowling balls!

The ricochet problem can be serious in some situations. For example, if you are shooting pigeons under a concrete and steel bridge, you should avoid steel ammo ... lead will not ricochet nearly as much. Heavier ammo retains more energy even after ricochet, so no doubt that is what concerns Trumark.

My general advice is to use the search function ... you will find a lot of very useful information more quickly that way.

Cheers .... Charles


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## JuantonSoup

Charles said:


> There has been a lot of discussion in this hunting section about the difference between penetration and blunt force trauma. I believe that most think blunt force trauma is most important (that is certainly my belief). I suggest you try the search function and look for "trauma" and for "penetration".
> 
> Although theoretically air resistance plays some role in velocity, at slingshot velocities and the ammo weight in question, you can ignore air resistance. The biggest change in velocity comes from the mass of the ammo. How the velocity falls off with mass depends on a number of factors ... the temperature, the bands being used, and your draw length, primarily. I do not know of any studies on this forum that have been done on the RRT tubes. That being said, for the velocity range and mass range in question, you will get much greater energy with heavier ammo. If you want to deposit more energy on your target, use heavier ammo ... within reason - do not try shooting bowling balls!
> 
> The ricochet problem can be serious in some situations. For example, if you are shooting pigeons under a concrete and steel bridge, you should avoid steel ammo ... lead will not ricochet nearly as much. Heavier ammo retains more energy even after ricochet, so no doubt that is what concerns Trumark.
> 
> My general advice is to use the search function ... you will find a lot of very useful information more quickly that way.
> 
> Cheers .... Charles


Good point. Ricochet would probably still pose a problem in certain hunting situations... something that I should consider. Though I think for hunting out in the woods, I'd rather err on the side of greater firepower by using heavier ammo.

Anyhow, thanks for the help. I'll do some more research and see what I come up with.


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## M.J

From personal experience, RRTs work great with 1/2" steel.


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## JuantonSoup

M_J said:


> From personal experience, RRTs work great with 1/2" steel.


Awesome -- I'll keep that in mind.


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## bullseyeben!

If its them pink tapered tubes, sorry guys but got nothing good to say bout em! Personal pref etc etc, but doubt theyd clock anymore than 230fps mark with 3/8 at av draw..in my eyes not fast enough to quickly down a pigeon with that amo.. 3/8 will have great effectiveness at pref 290+fps, but recomend .44 @ 230fps+ to kill humanly..


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## Charles

bullseyeben! said:


> If its them pink tapered tubes, sorry guys but got nothing good to say bout em! Personal pref etc etc, but doubt theyd clock anymore than 230fps mark with 3/8 at av draw..in my eyes not fast enough to quickly down a pigeon with that amo.. 3/8 will have great effectiveness at pref 290+fps, but recomend .44 @ 230fps+ to kill humanly..


I agree with you about those RRT tubes, but not based on velocities. Personally, I have not had good experience with those RRT tubes ... they broke after about 50 shots. But I may have gotten old stock or a bad batch. Several folks on the forum seem to like them.

However, concerning velocities, my hunting experience is rather different from yours. From my own hunting experience, I have found that .44 caliber lead (about the same weight as 1/2 inch steel) at about 160-170 fps is quite adequate for rabbit, and more than adequate for birds of pigeon size, out to about 10 meters or so (30-40 feet). I do not think I have ever fired any ammo from a slingshot at 290 fps, nor have I ever fired .44 lead ball at over about 200 fps.

You are certainly correct to suggest that as long as you are accurate with it, higher velocities are preferable; but I think the velocities you suggest are somewhat extreme. I doubt that Rufus Hussey ever attained anything like those velocities. Nico, who used to be on this forum but is now on the Rebel Slingshot Forum, does not get those sort of velocities, and he is regularly successful as a hunter.

Just a different point of view for the benefit of beginners ... don't mean to start a big argument.









Cheers ... Charles


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## Tex-Shooter

Any standard size tube, like Trumark's are slow, so a large shot size is very important. I highly recommend 1/2 inch steel if you are going to shoot steel from a Trumark slingshot. Even though the standard tubes are slow to start with, you will not lose a lot of speed by going to a larger size shot and will have a bunch more deleivered energy. -- Tex


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## bullseyeben!

Charles said:


> If its them pink tapered tubes, sorry guys but got nothing good to say bout em! Personal pref etc etc, but doubt theyd clock anymore than 230fps mark with 3/8 at av draw..in my eyes not fast enough to quickly down a pigeon with that amo.. 3/8 will have great effectiveness at pref 290+fps, but recomend .44 @ 230fps+ to kill humanly..


I agree with you about those RRT tubes, but not based on velocities. Personally, I have not had good experience with those RRT tubes ... they broke after about 50 shots. But I may have gotten old stock or a bad batch. Several folks on the forum seem to like them.

However, concerning velocities, my hunting experience is rather different from yours. From my own hunting experience, I have found that .44 caliber lead (about the same weight as 1/2 inch steel) at about 160-170 fps is quite adequate for rabbit, and more than adequate for birds of pigeon size, out to about 10 meters or so (30-40 feet). I do not think I have ever fired any ammo from a slingshot at 290 fps, nor have I ever fired .44 lead ball at over about 200 fps.

You are certainly correct to suggest that as long as you are accurate with it, higher velocities are preferable; but I think the velocities you suggest are somewhat extreme. I doubt that Rufus Hussey ever attained anything like those velocities. Nico, who used to be on this forum but is now on the Rebel Slingshot Forum, does not get those sort of velocities, and he is regularly successful as a hunter.

Just a different point of view for the benefit of beginners ... don't mean to start a big argument.









Cheers ... Charles
[/quote]
You could well be right Charles, I am not a hunter, so cant really speak from my own experience, but do think a 3/8 needs alot more speed than a .44 to kill a rabbit, maybe those first numbers were a bit extreme, but very possible all the same.. cheers


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## Charles

bullseyeben! said:


> I do think a 3/8 needs a lot more speed than a .44 to kill a rabbit, ... cheers


Absolutely ... I agree with you completely!! I think that generally 3/8, especially steel, kills by penetration, and you need a lot of speed for that. But .44 and larger kills by blunt force trauma ... because of its high mass, it does not need as much speed.

Cheers ...... Charles


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## JetBlack

I was going to post the same thread. Half inch steel is devastating when I shoot things with it so for killing rabbits it seems like a good choice. Glad others agree.


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## bootneck

I've been hit by richocheting 3/8 and 1/2 the 3/8 felt like being flicked, the 1/2 hurt, so i think thats why they advice against larger ammo, a 20 gram rock going at 150 fps will kill rabbits with chest shots so dont worry, basically the smaller the ammo the smaller your kill zone is, regardless of speed, the only difference is with faster speeds some people find it easyer to be accurate due to the flat trajectory, i personally like big shot going slow, because then i can see my shot flying, so can adjust for the next shot plus all i have to do is hit the animal then it dies, with small shot i cant see where i missed and it doesnt seem to kill without a good head shot, some people find it easyer the other way though so it's up to you. In short any slingshot will kill a small animal (there was a post on another forum of a fox killed with a massive 16mm lead ball and square elastics probably doing 150 fps) so just do what feels best. I use square elastics using 16mm lead, 50 lead rocks or scrap metal.

Andy


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## kyrokon

I shoot RRT, and have good success with them. 3/8 steel for targets with feathers and hex nuts for hairy targets. Marbles are good also for feather targets. I know you said no lead, if heavier ammo is needed you can add led to the hex nuts. 
Enjoy your new hobby.


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## chico

I enjoyed reading everybodys input here, thats good stuff.


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## Tex-Shooter

Steel tends to slide off of game more if a direct center hit is not made, therefor not delivering its full potential. Steel will also come back at you if hunting around concrete, rocks or other hard objects. Lead don't have these problems near as much and also penetrate better. I use 1/2 inch steel for target and 44 cal. lead for hunting as they both weigh the same. The 1/2 inch steel is easier on the target insert and a lot nicer to handle when shooting a lot. The lead just kills better and the softer the lead (no alloy) the better if formed in balls. As far as speed goes, as a humane hunter, I don't take shots over about 10 meters. I seldom shoot over 200 FPS per second and have a fair degree of accuracy out to about 50 meters. Now as far as power, 6 foot pounds will take small game. If you shoot a 44 cal lead at 180 fps it will deliver 9.3 foot pounds of energy and that is plenty for small game. The slower that you shoot, the slower that a projectile slows down, so at common humane (because of accuracy) slingshot ranges the air resistance does not play a great deal in speed especially with lead shot. I firmly believe in large shot and short ranges in slingshot hunting. Take time to develop hunting skills to get close to game. It is not uncommon for me to to get within 15/20 feet of game before shooting. The best hunter that I ever knew used a projectile weight about the same as a 9/16 lead ball. He killed thousands of jack rabbits in his lifetime with a slinngshot that only shot about 140 FPS. I know this for a fact asHe left me his slingshot and I have shot his slingshot over the chrony. -- Tex


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## chico

Yup, even though its not the best for the enviroment, lead is best for hunting. Steel is a close 2nd, but it does tend to skid off like you say. I skipped a 3/8ths steel ball off a squirrels head the other day, all it did was growl and dissappear!


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## August West

Just out of curiousity why are you opposed to hunting with lead?


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## Berkshire bred

i have hunted with 9.5mm steel but i only did this because i was shooting it very fast (350fps) i would not sugest this to someone who is relatively inexperienced with slingshots and i would sugest the half inch. the main thing is practice a lot and do not hunt until you can hit a target the size of your intended quarrys head at the range that you would reosonably expect to be hunting at.


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## Henry the Hermit

There is simply no good reason not to use lead in slingshots. The public has been (mis)educated to believe that lead is deadly poison and not safe to handle. That is simply not true. Here are my safety rules for lead.

1. Don't eat it

2. Cast it in a well ventilated area

3. Wash your hands after shooting with lead

Remember that lead comes out of the ground and returning some of it to the ground is not going to destroy the planet.


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## A+ Slingshots

Henry in Panama said:


> There is simply no good reason not to use lead in slingshots. The public has been (mis)educated to believe that lead is deadly poison and not safe to handle. That is simply not true. Here are my safety rules for lead.
> 
> 1. Don't eat it
> 2. Cast it in a well ventilated area
> 3. Wash your hands after shooting with lead
> 
> Remember that lead comes out of the ground and returning some of it to the ground is not going to destroy the planet.


Absolutely true Henry! I don't carry lead for my business currently, but only because I don't have time to make it for sale anymore since my eldest son got married and a full time job. 
California has gone crazy with the Lead Ban stuff in my area (getting close the the whole state) but I like lead for hunting.
That being said steel most certainly works well and I carry steel in 3/8, 1/2 and 5/8 inches. I recommend the 1/2" most if the time and the largest size only for the Big Tube Hunter and its Big Tubes I carry. I don't really consider 3/8" a very appropriate or effective hunting size ammo unless it was very small game like quail etc; as some others have suggested.


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## chico

Oh im not opposed to hunting with lead, i typed that because some people believe its bad for the water.


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## Charles

In Canada, it is illegal to hunt waterfowl with lead shot. The ban was based on research done by Environment Canada, a branch of the federal government. Their website is here:

http://www.ec.gc.ca/faunescience-wildlifescience/default.asp?lang=En&n=3F9A1AD5-1&xsl=privateArticles2,viewfull&po=B5BB0941

Whether one believes their research or not, the fact remains that you can get into a lot of trouble using lead ammo around water. It is easier to avoid the legal hassle by using steel when hunting around water.

I have posted below a direct quote from their web site.

Cheers .... Charles

Research on lead in wildlife has focused mainly on the issue of 'lead shot,' small pellets of metallic lead used as projectiles in shotgun ammunition for hunting and target shooting. A related issue is the accidental ingestion of small lead fishing sinkers and jigs used in recreational angling.

Waterbirds can ingest spent lead pellets or lost fishing tackle, resulting in poisoning. In addition, birds shot with lead pellets and not retrieved by hunters can become a source of secondary poisoning for predatory and scavenging wildlife. Other animals may prey upon dead or wounded game animals having lead shot embedded in their tissues.

Research ongoing since the 1960s led researchers to conclude that lead shot was the most important source of elevated lead exposure in waterfowl and some other waterbirds species. It was estimated that annual lead poisoning affected 250,000 birds in Canada, and about 2.5 million across North America.

Based on this research, Environment Canada banned use of lead shot for hunting most migratory game bird species. The nation-wide ban, in place since 1999, has resulted in a dramatic decrease in elevated lead exposure in wild waterfowl. It was found that elevated lead in bones of migrating ducks decreased between 52% and 90% depending on the species and location sampled.

Once considered a problem only in wetlands, wildlife and landscape scientists are now also examining how lead shot is affecting upland-foraging birds and raptors, like great horned owls, red-tailed hawks and golden eagles, as they have also been found to scavenge uncollected game animals shot and killed with lead shot or bullets.

For example, Richardson's ground squirrels are a favoured prey item of Swainson's and ferruginous hawks. Long considered a pest, it is a common management control practice to use lead shot to shoot ground squirrels. However, given the large numbers of ground squirrels shot, and the fact that they are rarely retrieved, the carcasses pose a significant risk of lead exposure and poisoning for scavenging raptor species. It has been estimated that hawks need only 23 days of feeding on this prey to ingest potentially lethal levels of lead.

In addition, researchers are investigating how lead shot affects the species currently exempt from the lead shot ban, including the American woodcock.

Research has also determined that ingestion of small lead fishing sinkers and jigs is a major cause of death in breeding common loons in eastern Canada and the United States, often exceeding the death rate caused by trauma, disease and entanglement in fishing gear.

Research is currently investigating alternatives to current management practices in order to reduce wildlife risk of lead poisoning.


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## Henry the Hermit

Lead shot is illegal for waterfowl in the US. Shooting waterfowl with a slingshot is illegal in most, if not all, States. Risking a fine or jail time is reason enough to follow the law, but the dangers of lead is grossly overstated.


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## August West

Henry in Panama said:


> Lead shot is illegal for waterfowl in the US. Shooting waterfowl with a slingshot is illegal in most, if not all, States. Risking a fine or jail time is reason enough to follow the law, but the dangers of lead is grossly overstated.


+1

More a tactic to ban hunting and guns in general than a danger to the environment. Saying that lost lead fishing sinkers causes a significant problem to wildlife is insane.


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## chico

wow, so using steel ammo might keep you out of jail? Its not just a fine?


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## August West

No, but hunting ducks with a slingshot might put you there. Texas hunting regulations are online and searchable.


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## Henry the Hermit

chico said:


> wow, so using steel ammo might keep you out of jail? Its not just a fine?


That was a general statement about breaking the law, but if you get fined for possessing lead shot, you can refuse to pay the fine and see what happens.


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## chico

Luckily i dont hunt duck, or waterfowl. I would probably make my case in court since its illegal to hunt waterfowl with it, not possess lead shot right? Anyway, i stick to varmint on my property, and my friends and nieghbors land. That is open season all year, and no license needed. Lead seems a little complicated right now. To answer the original question: Im not familiar with the slingshot youre using, but i know a lot of people would go with 1/2"


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## Henry the Hermit

chico said:


> Luckily i dont hunt duck, or waterfowl. I would probably make my case in court since its illegal to hunt waterfowl with it, not possess lead shot right? Anyway, i stick to varmint on my property, and my friends and nieghbors land. That is open season all year, and no license needed. Lead seems a little complicated right now. To answer the original question: Im not familiar with the slingshot youre using, but i know a lot of people would go with 1/2"


It is illegal to possess lead shot or shotshells while hunting waterfowl.

http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/publications/pwdpubs/media/pwd_bk_k0700_1014.pdf

Also, it would be a good idea to find out what is a "varmint" under State law and what you can hunt without a license.

http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/regulations/fish_hunt/hunt/general/


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## JetBlack

Lead seems to work much better for me and less chance of it hitting you.I like 12 mm. recently killed something with it and when I tried steel, the game got away.it was koed and when I got close and thought it was dead it escaped and scared the Hell out of me.


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## Popcorn

Take a look at this topic by Wingshooter http://slingshotforum.com/topic/14390-vinegaring-my-balls/?hl=%2Bvinegaring+%2Bballs .He soaks steel balls in vinegar over night, and says it makes them look and feel like lead. So maybe 1/2" steel given this treatment would make good hunting ammo.


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## Henry the Hermit

Popcorn said:


> Take a look at this topic by Wingshooter http://slingshotforum.com/topic/14390-vinegaring-my-balls/?hl=%2Bvinegaring+%2Bballs .He soaks steel balls in vinegar over night, and says it makes them look and feel like lead. So maybe 1/2" steel given this treatment would make good hunting ammo.


Look and feel are no substitute for the greater density of lead. Even though 1/2 inch steel weighs the same as .44 lead, it loses velocity, and therefore power, more rapidly.


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## dhansen

I recommend 1/2" steel or even better yet, 5/8" steel.

Haven't tried 7/16" steel.

I use 3/8 inch steel only for target shooting with my small shooters.

The important thing is to correctly match the proper projectile size and weight to the pouch, bands, and forks.

I prefer lead to steel when it comes to hunting.

happy trails


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## Shooterofslingshots

How do you guys practice outside for hunting, without loosing precious lead and steel ammo? Or are you all just rich enough to keep buying ammo


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## SuperMonkeySlinger

Shooterofslingshots said:


> How do you guys practice outside for hunting, without loosing precious lead and steel ammo? Or are you all just rich enough to keep buying ammo


 Good practice ammo = marbles ( Very cheap but effective ammo ) Another solution is rocks ( been used for ages ) And last but not least, Steel and lead balls for the killshot. But ofcourse rocks can take game too..

SMS


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## August West

SMS, I firmly believe that you should practice with the same ammo you hunt with.


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## Charles

Rocks, rocks, rocks .... shoot rocks.

Rocks should cost you nothing but the effort of gathering them.

PAY ATTENTION HERE: If you just pick up a handful of odd sized hex nuts, odd sized steel balls, and a few old washers and then just began shooting them, how accurate would you be? You would be lucky to hit anything! In the same way, if you just pick up a random handful of stones, you will not be very accurate.

Select your stones carefully! Rocks have in general a density similar to that of glass. To hunt with rocks, you are going to have to shoot fairly large ones ... no smaller than 1/2 inch across. Get a plastic bucket or something similar and a trowel. If at all possible, go to a stream bed or beach, somewhere with moving water. Moving water will round the stones. Select stones that are fairly round, or at worst cubical. Avoid flat stones. Get stones that are 1/2 to 3/4 inch in diameter. Select them to be as uniform in size as possible. Invest in a small digital scale:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/garden/page.aspx?p=68352&cat=2,40725

These scales are cheap ... about the same price as a few beers ... skip one night at the pub and buy a scale. Use the scale to weigh your selected stones. Discard stones that are really light or really heavy. You will then have a selection of stones that are very similar in shape and weight. You will be much more accurate with stones that are selected and sorted this way.

If you invest a little time, you will have all the good ammo you want at no financial cost.

Cheers ..... Charles


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## wll

JuantonSoup said:


> Hey guys; first post! So I've jumped into the slingshot scene recently after I went camping a few weeks back. My friend brought a few of his slingshots, and other than hiking around, we spent a good amount of time plinking targets.
> 
> Needless to say, it was quite fun, and as soon as I got back, I ordered a Trumark FSX-2000. It arrived yesterday, so now I'm deciding what size of *steel* ammo to get. The FSX-2000 comes with a Trumark RR-T (tapered, red) band.
> 
> I plan on sticking this in my survival pack for possible hunting. So out of the three steel ammo sizes (3/8", 7/16", and 1/2"), which one would you guys suggest for optimal small-game hunting?
> 
> *On the Trumark website, they state that they don't recommend any ammo larger than 3/8 inch "since it becomes too heavy, and is unsafe if used improperly."* Is this true?
> 
> On my camping trip, we were using 3/8" steel balls for plinking, but to me, 3/8" still seems a bit too light/small. Would a 7/16" or 1/2" be too much for the RR-T band to handle? Would the increase to the 7/16" or 1/2" be more efficient at hunting? What are the advantages/disadvantages of each size?
> 
> Just a side note: I don't plan on using lead ammo -- only steel. Suggestions appreciated!


In my opinion this is a crock .... 3/8" is ok for small birds, but anyone who hunts, uses ammo that weights at least 100+ grains.

This is lawyer talk for sure ....search these forums and find out what the hunters are using... not the crap that the lawyers say !!!

wll


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## Adam2

Learning to hunt and shoot legally in your area is more important than what ,ammo ,bands and slingshot one wants to use. 
Otherwise it would be called poaching. Fishing without a license can get your fishing gear and even vehicle taken away. 
I couldnt imagine what killing animals illegally would get somebody. 
Just fealt it needed to be said
I do like the topic though and do want to hear and learn more on it. 
I also have no qualms about hitting targets with lead or steel shots. With that in mind, it is also good to know how your going to go about, what it is you need to say when and if your so much as using a slingshot to plink a few cans to the public or authorities

Sent from my SM-G998W using Tapatalk


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## High Desert Flipper

I haven't hunted yet but have been enjoying the slingshots with the idea of hunting with them in the back of my mind. I have seen the conventional wisdom of hitting small game with 7-10 ft lbs of energy to humanely take them.

I regularly shoot 3/8", 7/16", and 1/2" steel and make frequent use of a choronograph and energy calculator. I have a shortish draw of 29" and the bands I use put the 3/8" out over 260 fps, and sometimes up to 280. Lighter target bands send it out around 230 fps. At 230 fps the 3/8" comes in around 6 ft lbs of energy which sounds like fine for birds but questionable for furry things. At 260 fps the 3/8" steel generates ~8 ft lbs and is probably in the humane range for furry things.

I have not gotten a bandset that I can pull / shoot accurately that will put 1/2" steel over 200 fps. Some of the heavy ones get into the 190's, but not over 200. Stronger people with longer arms or extended draws have no problem, but not me. The 1/2" steel at 190 fps generates the most energy of any setup I shoot, a bit over 11 ft lbs, and the most energy I can impart through a ball and certainly the deadliest for small game. Although I have a hard time with accuracy due to the rapid drop of the slower moving ball.

Again, I haven't been hunting with a slingshot yet but have contemplated it a lot. In this regard, I am liking the 7/16" steel. I can comfortably shoot it at 225 fps, and with a few bandsets a tad over 230 fps. Still right up around 10 ft lbs (9.6) and much flatter trajectory than the 1/2" steel. Seems like a good compromise to me with better energy than the 3/8" and flatter trajectory than the 1/2" steel.

So as I continue practicing, I have duplicate frames set up with light and heavy bands. The light shoots 3/8" at ~230 fps, the heavy shoots 7/16" at ~225 fps. I can shoot the light one all day long for target practice. And when I switch to the heavy, the aiming points are virtually the same. And based on the energy info I have gleaned from experienced hunters here, I think I should be in good shape if I take the heavy rig and 7/16" steel out trying to put something in the pot.

So there is two cents from somebody who has thought quite a bit about it, but hasn't taken a slingshot hunting yet. Along with a plug for the 7/16" steel that doesn't seem to have gotten much attention yet in this thread.

I will see what my future holds. One thing I am happy with- lots of time spent improving accuracy makes me confident that if or when I do take a slingshot hunting I will have equipped myself well to do it efficiently and humanely.


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## High Desert Flipper

And okay, not everyone has a chronograph or is numbers obsessed like me. There are also some simpler tests you can do to evaluate power.

Take a steel soup can and fill it with water. 3/8" and 7/16" steel will go through and through (in, through the water, and out the back) when they are traveling fast enough to generate around 7-8 ft lbs of energy. The 1/2" will often go through and through as well, but sometimes just in and leave a big ole dent on the back.

All also make the can give a good jump and send a little geyser up as well. Hit them like this consistently from 10 yds and odds are you will be able to hit a small critter with enough energy to humanely take it.

Soup cans are a lot cheaper than chronographs, and more fun to hit!


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