# Setup for TBG



## Jmart432 (Dec 31, 2014)

Hey guys. Could y'all give me the best dimensions for cutting TBG to. I'll be using 16mm marbles and I draw to the corner of my mouth. Also I probably won't be tapering them.

As for the actual cutting I here the a lot of you use those mini pizza cutting things. Are those necessary?

Thanks 
-Jacob


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## Henry the Hermit (Jun 2, 2010)

Try 1 inch straight cut about 7 inches pouch tie to frame. Pizza cutters are worthless for cutting rubber. You need a good quality rotary cutter made for cutting cloth.

http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Contour-Rotary-Cutter-195210-1001/dp/B000B7M8WU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422540120&sr=8-1&keywords=roll+cutter


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## Urban Fisher (Aug 13, 2014)

Yeah I agree with Henry. A good quality rotary cutter is what you need. Also a self healing pad. I know Bill Hays uses a paper guillotine cutter and I have been looking for one of those, but I'm in no hurry because my rotary cutter (usually used for cutting fabric) works great!

And as too dimensions...well I'm no expert. Good thing about TBG and a cutter is that you can experiment and decide what works best for you with what you want it to do. The old rule is to have an active length about one fifth of your draw length (with TBG). So an example...I have a 30" draw length so I cut my bands to have about 6" active length (30/5=6).


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## mopper (Nov 17, 2012)

I'd seriously reconsider the choice to not taper the bands. I have tried both tapered and untapered and it makes a very noticeable difference, at least with TBG. Tapered is much easier and more "pleasant" to draw in my opinion, it also increases speed a good deal and reduces handslaps.

Not tapering also doesn't prolong band life as much as you'd think it would. If that is concern, I have had decent success with wrapping a fingernail-sized, non-stretched bit of rubber around the bands before using the wrap-and-tuck rubber band method to tie them to the pouch (you wrap-and-tuck over the protective "sleeve")

That said, I also shoot mostly 16mm marbles, and a single band with a 2,5-2 cm or 2,5-1,5cm taper gives you some serious speed when you shoot half butterfly while still being very easy to draw. When I shoot 12mm steel at a large tree 40m from my window with the 2,5-2cm setup, the balls bury themselves in the bark and don't bounce off.


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## Jmart432 (Dec 31, 2014)

mopper said:


> I'd seriously reconsider the choice to not taper the bands. I have tried both tapered and untapered and it makes a very noticeable difference, at least with TBG. Tapered is much easier and more "pleasant" to draw in my opinion, it also increases speed a good deal and reduces handslaps.
> 
> Not tapering also doesn't prolong band life as much as you'd think it would. If that is concern, I have had decent success with wrapping a fingernail-sized, non-stretched bit of rubber around the bands before using the wrap-and-tuck rubber band method to tie them to the pouch (you wrap-and-tuck over the protective "sleeve")
> 
> That said, I also shoot mostly 16mm marbles, and a single band with a 2,5-2 cm or 2,5-1,5cm taper gives you some serious speed when you shoot half butterfly while still being very easy to draw. When I shoot 12mm steel at a large tree 40m from my window with the 2,5-2cm setup, the balls bury themselves in the bark and don't bounce off.


Wow that does sound impressive! I may have to use tempered bands then. 40m with steel and I layer of TBG sounds really nice.

Thanks for that. I guess I'll buy a sheet and experiment


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