# Band breakage



## Shooterofslingshots (Apr 2, 2013)

Hi. I'm new here.

This must be the most noob question, but I've bought 2 metres of theraband gold, and I cut my own bands. I cut them 25 cm long, and taper them from 25 to 15 mm. It shoots pretty hard, but the problem is, they keep breaking at the pouch end. Am I doing something wrong?


----------



## Viper010 (Apr 21, 2012)

its normal for the bands to break at or near the pouch attachment, especially with tapered flats. 
how many shots are you getting on average before they break?
whats your preferred ammo?


----------



## Shooterofslingshots (Apr 2, 2013)

I think about 100-200 shots. And the theraband is expensive and I shoot a lot. My ammo is 10 mm steel balls. If my bands keep breaking at this pace, I'll soon run out of theraband.


----------



## Rayshot (Feb 1, 2010)

Shooterofslingshots said:


> Hi. I'm new here.
> 
> This must be the most noob question, but I've bought 2 metres of theraband gold, and I cut my own bands. I cut them 25 cm long, and taper them from 25 to 15 mm. It shoots pretty hard, but the problem is, they keep breaking at the pouch end. Am I doing something wrong?


Try a 3:2 ratio on the tapers is a happy medium in speed gain and band life. This gives the good speed but the more you taper, the less shots you get out of them. Therefore, ease up on the taper for more band life.

Your taper is real close to the 3:2 ratio, about 2mm too severe.


----------



## Tex-Shooter (Dec 17, 2009)

Ray shot is right, also and I harp on this, rough or sharp edged fork tips will cause premature breaking at the pouch. Also my LA2000 and LB2000 band set with Saunders patented bands last quite a bit longer because of the shape profile. -- Tex


----------



## August West (Jan 21, 2012)

Don't know how you are tying but I got better band life when I started tying by hand, no jig, and I also dust my ties and bands with corn starch which I think helps. Now I am sure using a jig you can get the right amount of prestretch, I'm just saying that I didn't and it affected my band life.


----------



## Shooterofslingshots (Apr 2, 2013)

Thanks for the replies chaps.  I might have a better question then. What's the longest lasting dimensions of bands that will still kill small game responsibly?

Would non tapered bands still kill small game for example?

I don't own a jig, but when I tie at the pouch end, I put it in a vice, and hold it prestretched while tying.

I already made my fork ends into a smoothe square shape. I'll try to make it completely round then.

Thanks again for the help folks!


----------



## August West (Jan 21, 2012)

I taper mine 3/4" to 1/2" which is 19mm to 12.7mm and am happy with performance and longevity, honestly straight cut will take small game fine. Something else to take into effect is how hard your working the bands, or how close you get to max stretch at your draw.

Forgot to say, that seems like too much band for 10mm steel, which will also shorten the life of your bands, also for some reason I get more life from doubled bands, I really don't know why.


----------



## Shooterofslingshots (Apr 2, 2013)

August West said:


> I taper mine 3/4" to 1/2" which is 19mm to 12.7mm and am happy with performance and longevity, honestly straight cut will take small game fine. Something else to take into effect is how hard your working the bands, or how close you get to max stretch at your draw.
> 
> Forgot to say, that seems like too much band for 10mm steel, which will also shorten the life of your bands, also for some reason I get more life from doubled bands, I really don't know why.


So what band length and size would you suggest for 10mm steel balls please?


----------



## August West (Jan 21, 2012)

I have never shot 10mm steel so would have to experiment with my chrony. Your set up might be ok, but seems to me to be heavier than needed, I am sure some steel shooters will chime in.


----------



## All Buns Glazing (Apr 22, 2012)

That's a pretty extreme taper.

My advice would be to cut single 20mm bands and go from there.

30mm-25mm works well, too.

THIS IS FOR TARGET SHOOTING. I don't hunt, so I can't advise on it.


----------



## Shooterofslingshots (Apr 2, 2013)

Ok. Little update, I've been experimenting with non tapered bands that where 1,3 cm wide, and 25 cm long. I was pretty accurate with them but it didn't penetrate a coke can on both sides, so probably not powerful enough.

I used this calculator: http://www.slingshotchannel.com/band_calc.html

With my 95cm drawlength it gives me double non tapering bands of about 25 cm long, and 1,51 cm's wide.

Does anyone know what kind of power these sorts of bands would give me?

The calculator is lacking in the sense that it doesn't give you an idea of the estimate band life and power.


----------



## Adirondack Kyle (Aug 20, 2012)

I don't taper my bands, its NOT worth it for me, find i get the same speed, especially with heavier ammo.
And my bands last quite a bit longer.
It has been proven, tapered bands lighten your draw weight, therefore, making your draw weight to speed ratio higher, if you are willing to taper your bands from 2 inches at the fork to half inch at the pouch , you will get 5-10 shots out of it and will see a dramatic increase in speed, by the way, my 8 yr old daughter shoots 3/8 straight cut thera, 3/8 inch steel punch through one side of a dinty more can. Its all about matching your ammo, , holding your shot at full draw for too long will also slow your shot down. There are many things to consider besides tapering that effect your speed and power. I learned these things the hard way instead of taking the advice of MANY pros here on the forum.
Good luck. ( my personal opinion)


----------



## Shooterofslingshots (Apr 2, 2013)

Thanks for the advice. I'm now shooting some 1,5 to 2 cm bands. They've survived about 100 shots so far. If they last well I'll do that again, if they don't I'll probably try double 1,5 cm square bands.

I think my next order of rubber, I'll try to get some tubes, as they seem cheaper, longer lasting and still up to the job. Another advantage would seem that you can use rocks with tubes, which is almost impossible to do with flatbands.

I'll let you all know how it turns out!

-Shooterofslingshots


----------



## All Buns Glazing (Apr 22, 2012)

Hey bud. Good to see you're experimenting!

With that draw length, you'll have no problems when you sort it out.

Can I recommend 2cm straight cut singles? In my experience, for simple target bands that will last a very acceptable amount of time, these are great for plinking. Easily destroy an aluminium can.


----------



## ash (Apr 23, 2013)

If you want to get more out of your bands and are only getting breakages at the pouch end you could try starting with a longer band, say 30-35cm long and tie them to the forks at 25cm leaving the extra 5-10cm running down the front of the forks/handle.

When the bands break at the pouch end, you can cut both bands back to the same length and re-tie a few cm further up at the fork end using the excess length to restore your 25cm working length. That could well double or triple the number of shots per length of rubber. I'm sure I've seen pictures of slingshots banded in this way here, so someone who has actually tried it might be able to confirm whether it is practical or not.


----------



## Dr J (Apr 22, 2013)

Excellent information! Thanks for sharing.


----------



## HarryBee (Jun 29, 2013)

ash said:


> If you want to get more out of your bands and are only getting breakages at the pouch end you could try starting with a longer band, say 30-35cm long and tie them to the forks at 25cm leaving the extra 5-10cm running down the front of the forks/handle.
> 
> When the bands break at the pouch end, you can cut both bands back to the same length and re-tie a few cm further up at the fork end using the excess length to restore your 25cm working length. That could well double or triple the number of shots per length of rubber. I'm sure I've seen pictures of slingshots banded in this way here, so someone who has actually tried it might be able to confirm whether it is practical or not.


Yes it is, Ash. I leave an inch in front of the forks for re-tying. Its not as 'pretty' as neatly tied forks but its more convenient if a band goes at the pouch, and also much more economical of course. Cheers, Harry


----------

