# Wood finish?



## BCLuxor (Aug 24, 2010)

Just curious what type off finish people/vendors use to get that high quality super shiny gloss on their boardcuts? I have been using clear non drip diamond gloss on my boardcuts and they seem to be glossy but not shiny.... Also how do you get a nice even coat across your workpeice is it some sort of spraypaint?


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## baumstamm (Jan 16, 2010)

if u want it shiny, make more layers and sand it with real fine sandpaper between the layers if needed. minimum is 5 layers of urethan. u can spray it, it might be easyer but u can brush it to. line seed oil is also pretty good.


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## lucifer93 (May 4, 2010)

MYLANDS of LONDON EST 1884 Taditional WAX POLISH very good stuff. Linseed oil is very good for snooker cues and slingshots


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## flippinout (Jul 16, 2010)

Birchwood Casey Tru Oil gunstock finish. 8+ coats polished w 000 steel wool btw coats. Finished with 4-5 coats of a hard paste wax polished on cloth wheel. However that won't work unless thje wood has been sanded at least 600 grit. My favorite and not as difficult as it it sounds.


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

flippinout said:


> Birchwood Casey Tru Oil gunstock finish. 8+ coats polished w 000 steel wool btw coats. Finished with 4-5 coats of a hard paste wax polished on cloth wheel. However that won't work unless thje wood has been sanded at least 600 grit. My favorite and not as difficult as it it sounds.


Hey flip,
Ha ha, I'd only do that if I wanted to hang said sculpture (surely it can't be a tool) on the wall of my art museum.


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## bunnybuster (Dec 26, 2009)

I like spray laquer, using multiple coats.
Linseed oil is my other choice, multiple coats.


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## A+ Slingshots (Jan 22, 2010)

My favorite is 4-5 coats of Urethane Spar Varnish guys. Tough and shines nice too!!!


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## USASlingshot (Feb 25, 2010)

we put 3 coats of spray poly on. inbetween coats once its fully dry i rub it with steel wool untill its smooth. i have yet to get a finish like flatband though


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## mxred91 (Aug 8, 2010)

Wipe on gloss poly, 000 steel wool between coats, typically 8 coats


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## USASlingshot (Feb 25, 2010)

from what im reading i might have to try 5 coats and see how that is


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## BCLuxor (Aug 24, 2010)

OK i got a bucket full of linseed oil which I use and do quite like. When I use the heavier gloss varnish etc I find it hard to get an even coat and near impossible to find a drying position that allows the coat to dry even without dripping or smears etc... how do you guys apply your chosen layer? Do you use a custom painting rig or just lie flat and do one face at a time? Through experimenting I found that lying flat and painting one face at a time is good for the front and back but makes the edges look really tacky hence why I moved to plastikote spray paint to do my cammo it was the only paint/gloss I could get to look semi decent. Last thing I want to extract from the knowledge bank is what do you apply your varnish with? I use kitchen roll tissue it holds up well until the paint gets a skin and then tears leaving tissue bits all over my nice varnish. I have also tried using sponge, paint brushes, cloth, denim and dipping all seem to leave really tacky results.... any help much welcome. here is one I did using a paint brush you can see what I mean about the gloss looking uneven..


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## mxred91 (Aug 8, 2010)

With wipe on poly you just apply it with a lint free rag (I expect you can do the same thing with linseed oil). The trick to a smooth finish is the sanding (or use of steel wool) between coats. That is where you take out any runs, dust, hairs, etc. The more coats you put on, each coat after is easier. If at any point you have a problem, like a run, it is no big deal, you sand off the run and apply another coat. Thin coats work better than thick coats. I have also used a foam brush instead of a rag, same procedure.


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## whipcrackdeadbunny (May 22, 2010)

Little and often, I recommend; and maybe a little heat treatment at the end.


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## HungaJungaESQ (Jan 4, 2012)

Old topic ressurected... but I figure it's better than starting a new one.

I was looking to see if anyone paints over linseed oil? I'd like to make some friends custom slingshots using paint to differentiate them. It would be acrylic craft paint because I know it works very well on wood and keeps its colour well. I would use sealant after the paint to keep it from rubbing off. What the paint doesn't do, however, is strengthen or protect the wood. I'm very pleased with the results of linseed oil. It cures beautifully and feels great but still strengthens the wood.

Question is, can paint just go right on top of the oil? Will it soak in? Will it bead off? I would check but my linseed projects have not fully dried/cured yet.

If not, any ideas? Maybe just poly over the paint?

-Bob


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## Jim Williams (Jul 6, 2011)

I just stick with danish oil but I'm hoping to get a cloth wheel soon, Flippinout gets the best finishes I have ever seen on a catapult.


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