# Alternatives to Linseed oil?



## Hitchednegima

I don't have access to alot of different treating oils, seeing as I am quite poor. Can you use regular oils like olive oils? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I have no idea what I'm doing. (My profile picture is my slingshot btw, tell me if there is anything I can improve)


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## jazz

You can probably use any oil, but the oils that I hear here about most are tung oil, danish oil, and some other oils which, by the way, I can not buy where I live.

I used olive oil and I was ok with it.

Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) is quite popular here and I use it almost exclusively.

I must say that I am puzzled by your quest for something cheeper than BLO... in my country 7.5 dcl of pure virgin oil is more expensive than 1 liter of BLO..

cheers,

jazz


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## treefork

All oils are not the same and will not have the same results . The preferred oils actually cure and harden forming a protective coat . There are posts explaining the technical details and science of the matter . Don't have the links at the moment .


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## Bob E

I've used mineral oil as a food safe wood finish on cutting boards. It works good enough. It's usually sold as a laxative here in the states, or with fragrance added (not food safe) as baby oil. I'm told the old time European woodworkers used tallow on all of their hand tools. I've tried lard which also seems to work okay. None of these would be ideal. They don't harden, and I don't know how the rubber would react to them...


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## Viper010

Linseed oil is really not that expensive. A liter of oil (2 pints approx) can be had for under ten euros. And that's enough for a hundred slingshots easy.

Linseed oil is a so called siccative or drying oil. Over time it polymerises and forms a protective coat. Cooking oil and mineral oil and lard will not do that. They can also go rancid and stinky.

You could also rub a white candle on the wood until it's coated in wax and run a soft yellow flame over it to melt in the wax. That will protect the wood pretty well against moisture but it will always stay a little greasy.

If you wish to soak a fork in linseed oil for a couple of hours or days, I recommend you use a ziploc bag instead of a container. Then a couple of tablespoons is enough, so it's much more economical.


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## Hitchednegima

A big thanks to all the people who replied, but I ended up just using olive oil. I know it probably won't help all that much, but treating the wood has proved not be that important for me. I only make amateur slingshots. And the reason that BLO is too expensive for me is that I'm 14, and I don't wanna use all my allowence on oil. So I mainly wanted something I could take in the house.


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## JRSC

Certainly olive oil is better than no oil. I Put a little Crisco or a little coconut oil on mine. Just a light coat. I figured it's nontoxic and couldn't hurt. So far no troubles.


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## twang

what about wax? like bees wax?


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## JRSC

twang said:


> what about wax? like bees wax?


It's natural and couldn't hurt. Certainly better than nothing. Just keep a light coat on it. IMO almost anything natural with no chemicals will do. I may be wrong but I fear non-natural oil with chemicals and such would dry out the band.


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## twang

also it has a nice grip to it.


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## tyrone8511

I also struggled to get hold of different oils for finishing, try teak oil, if you can't find that check the oils for outdoor furniture at your supermarket.


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## Viper010

I may be wrong but I fear non-natural oil with chemicals and such would dry out the band.[/quote]

Yes, I'm afraid you're wrong on this one. Any non-siccative oil, such as olive oil, and mineral oil, and many others will in fact chemically react with latex and make it rip very very very fast indeed.

This is also why, in the bedroom, one needs to keep massage/baby oil far far away from the condoms. Get oil on a condom and it WILL rip. No ifs ands buts or maybe's about it.

I'd advise you cover the olive oil over with a layer of wax and hope for the best. Cover over with laquer or varnish if you want to be absolutely sure the oil doesn't eat away at the bands.


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## fsimpson

paste wax for floors and furniture works well -- apply several coats - used that before . candle wax (paraffin ) put on hot and buffed might work --


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## JRSC

Viper010 said:


> I may be wrong but I fear non-natural oil with chemicals and such would dry out the band.


Yes, I'm afraid you're wrong on this one. Any non-siccative oil, such as olive oil, and mineral oil, and many others will in fact chemically react with latex and make it rip very very very fast indeed.

This is also why, in the bedroom, one needs to keep massage/baby oil far far away from the condoms. Get oil on a condom and it WILL rip. No ifs ands buts or maybe's about it.

I'd advise you cover the olive oil over with a layer of wax and hope for the best. Cover over with laquer or varnish if you want to be absolutely sure the oil doesn't eat away at the bands.[/quote]

Thank you sir, I've done a study on this since you've posted this. I never thought it would react. Though I haven't had any problems I believe from now on I'll just leave the bands raw. If they're going bad then it's time for replacing.


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## twang

i used some almond oil today. it stained the wood a nice honey hue and dried quite fast . i got 3 coats on in about 20 mins. its used for woodwind instruments as a wood conditioner.


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## Sanch

I am surprised Noone mentioned a few coats of cyanoacrlite (super glue) rub it on with a gloved finger sand with 400 grit and repeat wipe between coats with fingernail polish remover (acetone) let each coat dry fully!


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## Viper010

Sanch said:


> I am surprised Noone mentioned a few coats of cyanoacrlite (super glue) rub it on with a gloved finger sand with 400 grit and repeat wipe between coats with fingernail polish remover (acetone) let each coat dry fully!


He asked for alternatives for linseed oil. Cyanoacrylate can make for a fine finish, that's true, but quite different from the warm natural feel of an oil finish. It's also a lot more labor intensive and less forgiving of beginner mistakes. And you have the noxious fumes to contend with.

Personally I see super glue more as an alternative to spray lacquer or varnish than as an alternative to oil.

It's true that it can make for a nice low cost high gloss finish if you do it right, but I think those are the main reasons nobody had mentioned it here before you.


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## Sanch

@Viper point well made but I was thinking about sealing and that was all !


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## Buckskin Dave

I've used olive oil many times and had no problems. It soaks in. I've also used peanut oil and had no issues. But boil linseed oil is my first choice.


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## devils son in law

One thing I've tried with very good results is Pine Tar. I worked at a Cross Country ski shop and we had a few die hard wood ski fanatics and we would prep their wood skis with Pine Tar.

I applied it in sections and used a torch to heat it just till it starts to bubble. The heat causes the wood grain open up a bit and also makes the tar thinner allowing it penetrate better. It definitely acts like a stain, it's dark brown in color but it has a great feel and it smells very good too! : )


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## MakoPat

Beeswax is costly. I use mineral oil in several coats... then seal with a mineral oil & beeswax mixture.
But if you have beeswax you can use petroleum jelly (has to repeated on a regular basis). Just "glob" it on after the oil has dried and let set overnight. Wipe clean.
The issue with olive oil and mineral oil is ( I have not encountered it) can go rancid.
I do not like the plastic feel of super glue, nail polish, or polyurethane sealants. The wax makes thing easier to grip. 
Have fun.


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## Ordo

Walnut oil is a good and cheap alternative. Just put some walnuts in a small piece of cotton fabric, tie it, carefully crush the nuts inside (the oil will appear) and rub the wood. I used that on my guitars. Here some picks:


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## cpu_melt_down

Not that you'll be licking on your slingshot, but some oils turn rancid.

It's something to be aware of...


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