# Flatband Slot Cutting Question for all you Pro's.



## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

Hi Guys, when cutting the slots into a frame's forks ......... how do you go about making the inside furfaces of those slots smooth enough so as to not abrade the bands and yet not open them up so far as to have the slots allow the bands to slip?

Are you using a bandsaw or scrollsaw to cut the slots?

How do you finish the inside of the slots so as to protect the bands?

Thanks.

Teach


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## Viper010 (Apr 21, 2012)

Good question mate.. I'll be following this one with interest. ????


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

Viper010 said:


> Good question mate.. I'll be following this one with interest.


Hey quit following me, ur makin me nervous! :rofl:


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## Urban Fisher (Aug 13, 2014)

This is actually a good question. I started out OTF, but with time became more of a TTF shooter. Many of the simple templates are set up for OTF shooting. I do not have any fancy tools (basically a coping saw) so I kept my template usage to just simple slingshot shapes (no fancy tube attachment holes and "wings" for TTF shooting). In fact I thought many of the frames set up for TTF shooting were quite ugly! So I went old school and decided to attach my bands the old Wham-O method with a simple slot down the fork (Wham-O's actually had two slots, I only cut one...that's all you need).

So onto the question. I just use my coping saw to cut the slots. Not the best way by any means, but it works. I do take a piece on sandpaper and run it through the slots on each side (inside the slot) but that is just to remove any fuzzies that may have formed.Then I just fold my TBG to make it double thickness where I'm mounting it on my fork, stretch it, slide it into fork slot and let go (no tying!!!). I have shot thousands of rounds out of several slingshots with this method and I have yet to have one band slip on me. If the slot is too wide and the bands do slip (guess depending on the thickness of your saw blade) you can just do the match stick attachment method.


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## lunasling (Apr 5, 2015)

KISS = keeping it simple slingshot !


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## treefork (Feb 1, 2010)

I use a band saw, drill press and then some good old fashioned sandpaper .


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

treefork said:


> I use a band saw, drill press and then some good old fashioned sandpaper .


If you are doing simple slot or slots per fork, where does the drill press come in Marty? Is that for a hole at the bottom of the slot within which to have a little rolled band? I think I have seen this somewhere but can't place it.


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

Urban Fisher said:


> I do take a piece on sandpaper and run it through the slots on each side (inside the slot) but that is just to remove any fuzzies that may have formed.


Up to how fine a sandpaper grit are you taking this to within the slots to satisfy yourself the insides are smooth enough? Thanks


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## Chuck Daehler (Mar 17, 2015)

I use a standard hack saw then sand the insides starting with a small band of 150 grit, then 250 then 350. I round the slot a bit at the edges to not abrade the bands. A hack saw makes just the right width slot for double band TBG so it's a bit wide for single bands. Not to worry. Sometimes I shoot singles too but use a section of broken band about 1 inch as a shim, doubled over with the real band to simulate a double band. I ALWAYS use the "match stick" method of putting something (trimmer/weed whacker nylon line in my case) in the band loop to assure it's not coming out of the slot. Using the shim method all my SSs are fine for singles and doubles and not one has pulled out.


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## TSM (Oct 8, 2013)

I use an electric hand drill and 1/8" bit to put the holes in first and then a hack saw for the slots. Then usually just a 100 or 150 grit sandpaper doubled over to sand the slot.


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

Chuck and I were discussing the Twisted Tike I just did the build along with. As I originally thought this unit was going to be an OTT shooter I was kind of disappointed when the frame turned out so nicely as I shoot TTF grin. So if I slot this frame the cuts have to go vertically from the top of the forks down toward the end of the handle and oriented front to back. I don't have room for two vertical slots in each fork as it will interfere with my thumb support shelf. I think a single slot will be best using a tooth pick method on the back side with a doubled band. The principle is simple enough, just wondered how to finish up the insides of the groove without taking them too wide but I think this has been addressed well. If a person does go too wide he could always address the problem by using another layer of TBG as Chuck mentioned in between the dual layers from the folded single band.

Hmmm, I think I'm off to go cut some slots in this new frame. Thanks once again fellas! anic:

Teach....


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## Bob Fionda (Apr 6, 2011)

I use a rasp, so called "rat-tail", starting with one small and very fine. After that I start sanding inside the grooves bending pieces of sandpaper from 240 grip up to 2500 grit. I don't use power-tools, just by hand. Yes, I'm freaked out, but the grooves are very smooth!


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

Bob Fionda said:


> I use a rasp, so called "rat-tail", starting with one small and very fine. After that I start sanding inside the grooves bending pieces of sandpaper from 240 grip up to 2500 grit. I don't use power-tools, just by hand. Yes, I'm freaked out, but the grooves are very smooth!


Bob, you are talking about what we usually call band grooves. The "slots" are cut vertically in the tips to allow for TTF shooting.


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## Bob Fionda (Apr 6, 2011)

Oh Sorry! That's my bad english.......thanks Bill.


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

LOL Bob, way to go..........ya just made me feel younger jajaja. But WOW is that a gorgeous hunk of wood there. Orange colour with what looks like a cat's fur in the crotch. Very interesting piece of wood. What species is that? Mesquite?


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

Ok guys, I got my slots cut and made up a new set of bands and pouch and strapped her up and took her for a ride! Oh my.......

I knew that frame was comfy just from the way it felt in my hand while carving it but once the bands pull it back into my hand it just say "I'm home".

I had an unexpected pleasant surprise too. The angle that the forks go out create a perfectly aligned sight with the top corner of the left fork. I put that corner on the target and WHAM dead can. Oooo this is gonna be fun.

Thanks for the info and help you guys. And Bob, thank you for the effort. I'm learning Spanish so I'm well acquainted with how easy that is to do. Speaking a second language can be a lot of laughs, mostly for the other folks. grin


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## AZshooter (May 1, 2011)

After the slots are cut and holes drilled fine sand paper helps to smooth out the rough spots...To make everything ultra- smooth you can BURNISH the cut/ drilled areas with cotton cord of appropriate size and bees wax rubbed in vigorously...the friction melts the wax into the pores of the wood...this should help protect your bands...PHIL


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

Good suggestions for an OTT shooter but what I had made was a TTF so there are no holes, just one slot all the way through the frame from front to back with the bands secured by folding with a toothpick at the fold to keep the bands from slipping.


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## lunasling (Apr 5, 2015)

Pics of build is in order ?


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## Can-Opener (May 11, 2013)

I use my band saw and drill press. I drill an 1/8" hole. The saw blade kerf is about 1/16"


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## bigdh2000 (Feb 9, 2015)

I always design to allow for a drilled hole.

TTF shooters - I work them exactly like Can-Opener above. At times this style can be a bit cumbersome to fit in the drill press for the holes depending on your design. However, it is a little easier to cut the slot with a band saw on these. After cutting the slots, I usually just use 220 grit until the saw grooves are gone.

OTF shooters - the holes are fairly easy in the drill press (you can almost do them freehand). My issue has always been cutting the slots on these since you pretty much have to cut both together when the tops of the forks are parallel. I have ruined way too many trying to use my band saw. I have tried tons of processes to get it right but I always end up with one slot right, one slot off. Now I just cut them by hand with a hacksaw since I can control that a lot batter (slower speed). So far the hacksaw is about 50 to 0 and the band saw is about 1 to 20 (the 1 was a fluke).

What I want to know is if anyone has come up with a semi-versatile jig that can hold a slingshot while the holes and slots are placed with a drill press and band saw. A few pictures would be of interest to me.


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## BAT (Feb 26, 2015)

I want to try this band attachment method, but I have one question:

What is the distance needed to make the hole?


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

Canopener and Dan Hood, I started this frame to be OTT because of a lack if wood to make it TTF which was a teal drag as the frame turned out so well and I shoot TTF so I wanted to employ slots so as to be able to use it TTF for myself. I made one slot for the bands and use the toothpick
method Chuck told me about. Im real happy with the results.

























Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## lunasling (Apr 5, 2015)

Fine build brother !


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

lunasling said:


> Fine build brother !


Thanks Lunasling, this was from my recent "First Build Along". I'll be posting pics of it all banded up real soon. Just a little more hand rubbing to do lol.


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## Can-Opener (May 11, 2013)

BAT said:


> I want to try this band attachment method, but I have one question:
> 
> What is the distance needed to make the hole?


5/16" from the edge to the center of the hole is what that one is. It dose not seem to super critical as long as the slot is cleanly cut and not a sloppy opening. !/8" hole is what I like for .030" latex


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## BAT (Feb 26, 2015)

Can-Opener said:


> BAT said:
> 
> 
> > I want to try this band attachment method, but I have one question:
> ...


Thanks a lot!! Now I have all the info to make it happen!!!


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## you'llshootyereyeout (Apr 5, 2014)

My benchtop bandsaw doesn't have a wide enough throat to cut both forks so this is how I do it. I use a router base on my dremel with a saw blade attachment. I cut as deep as the saw blade will allow. Then I drill an 1/8" hole. After that I counter sink the ends of the holes and smooth with some sandpaper.


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

Matt, what's your source for red and white HDPE? Buckets? Coffee containers? The red is so rich.


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## bigdh2000 (Feb 9, 2015)

Teach said:


> Matt, what's your source for red and white HDPE? Buckets? Coffee containers? The red is so rich.


I actually know the answer to this but will let Matt give you his secret. It will crack you up when you find out. I accidentally acquired one of the items and had ask for some advice from Matt.


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## bigdh2000 (Feb 9, 2015)

you'llshootyereyeout said:


> My benchtop bandsaw doesn't have a wide enough throat to cut both forks so this is how I do it. I use a router base on my dremel with a saw blade attachment. I cut as deep as the saw blade will allow. Then I drill an 1/8" hole. After that I counter sink the ends of the holes and smooth with some sandpaper.


...and to think I have one of those sitting on the shelf holding up dust (FOREHEAD-PALM). Time to test it.


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## lunasling (Apr 5, 2015)

I got one of those to minus the router base i also have a router and a table as well just no time to play with them lol


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## you'llshootyereyeout (Apr 5, 2014)

Teach said:


> Matt, what's your source for red and white HDPE? Buckets? Coffee containers? The red is so rich.


I get the red HDPE from a 5gal pickle bucket from a restaurant called Fire House Subs. The white I'm using is also a pickle bucket, but it's from a restaurant called Penn Station Subs.


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## Bob Fionda (Apr 6, 2011)

Teach, this is larix.


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## Arnisador78 (Apr 10, 2013)

you said:


> My benchtop bandsaw doesn't have a wide enough throat to cut both forks so this is how I do it. I use a router base on my dremel with a saw blade attachment. I cut as deep as the saw blade will allow. Then I drill an 1/8" hole. After that I counter sink the ends of the holes and smooth with some sandpaper.


that is a cool set up. I gave up on trying to use bandsaw for the slots. Lately I've just been using a hacksaw... Much more control.


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## Can-Opener (May 11, 2013)

you'llshootyereyeout said:


> My benchtop bandsaw doesn't have a wide enough throat to cut both forks so this is how I do it. I use a router base on my dremel with a saw blade attachment. I cut as deep as the saw blade will allow. Then I drill an 1/8" hole. After that I counter sink the ends of the holes and smooth with some sandpaper.


If you added a ballbearing to the end of that cutter it would be a really slick set up. Very smart use of your tools!


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

Bob Fionda said:


> Teach, this is larix.


I'm confused Bob. What is a larix? If I'm not mistaken Larix is a European Larch species of wood. Are you referring to the type of wood my sling shot was made from?


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

you'llshootyereyeout said:


> Teach said:
> 
> 
> > Matt, what's your source for red and white HDPE? Buckets? Coffee containers? The red is so rich.
> ...


Well that about eliminates my chances of accessing any here in Mexico - grin. You'd think being able to access something so common north of the border would be just as easy to find south of the border but nooooooo. I've even tried to find sources for brand new ones with no success...............so far. Thanks Matt, I was kinda hoping you were gonna say something like Folgers coffee containers or something else very common. Oh well. Onward.


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## Bob Fionda (Apr 6, 2011)

Teach, pardon, Larix Decidua is the name in latin, the one used to classify it. In english is Larch.

Regards,

Bob


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## bigdh2000 (Feb 9, 2015)

Teach said:


> you'llshootyereyeout said:
> 
> 
> > Teach said:
> ...


Teach, Walmart has a red 3 gallon bucket in the mop section that is HDPE. Not the cheapest way to go about it but it works very well.


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

Bob Fionda said:


> Teach, pardon, Larix Decidua is the name in latin, the one used to classify it. In english is Larch.
> Regards,
> Bob


This is definitely not Larch. Larch has needles, this had leaves. Larch is one of the hardest of softwoods, but it is still soft. This stuff is hard. A buddy here told me he thought it was Jacaranda which when in bloom has beautiful purple flowers thick throughout the tree. The other thing was the bark of this stuff was nothing like Larch bark. Larch always has some purple running through it, this had absolutely none. Also Larch has a very distinct smell to it, this wood smelled nothing like it.

I used to work in the forest industry as a commercial log scaler. Larch is a merchantable species, meaning a commercial species which is very plentiful in BC where I was from. Not at all like this. The grain density of this wood is far denser than Larch with very tight growth rings. Thanks for your effort, but Larch I can definitely rule out.


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## Bob Fionda (Apr 6, 2011)

Teach, jacaranda does not grow in Italy, especially in the site where I got it, on the Valtellina mountains near Sondrio. I'm sorry, definitely this is not jacaranda, I might be wrong about larch, even though I know this tree, but it's not jacaranda.


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

Bob Fionda said:


> Teach, jacaranda does not grow in Italy, especially in the site where I got it, on the Valtellina mountains near Sondrio. I'm sorry, definitely this is not jacaranda, I might be wrong about larch, even though I know this tree, but it's not jacaranda.


Did you go back and compare the bark at the beginning of the build? I'm not familiar with Jacaranda myself but I am very familiar with Larch. So If I can rule out Larch and you can rule out Jacaranda then I'm right back where I started from lol.


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## Bob Fionda (Apr 6, 2011)

I cannot go back to the bark, I can only show you the slingshot finished. Then if you're sure this is not larch, that's all right, this slingshot is happy in one's hand somewhere in the States and me too.

Cheers!

Bob.


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

That is beautiful! And different wood than mine.

What I meant was for you to go back to the photo of the build along that showed it's bark still on.

http://slingshotforum.com/topic/44004-first-build-along/

You will see the bark is entirely different from Larch.


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

bigdh2000 said:


> Teach said:
> 
> 
> > you'llshootyereyeout said:
> ...


thanks for this Dan, the stock in Walmart here in Mexico is not the same stuff you will find in the USA or Canada and for the most part most of it is really really cheap crap brought in from China. I don't know why that is, perhaps something to do with tariffs on goods from North America. Or perhaps because of the incomes of most Mexicans is very low......only the cheap stuff sells?


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## BAT (Feb 26, 2015)

Hi Teach!!

Have you looked in hardware stores known as "Ferreterias"?? Maybe they handle some red buckets. Other place where you can find them is where you can buy cleaning goods like brooms, mops, etc.

Cheers!!


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

BAT said:


> Hi Teach!!
> 
> Have you looked in hardware stores known as "Ferreterias"?? Maybe they handle some red buckets. Other place where you can find them is where you can buy cleaning goods like brooms, mops, etc.
> 
> Cheers!!


Yes, I have checked with the local "Ace" hardware store and a couple of the "Trooper" ferreterias. No joy. Even tried the paint stores.


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