# How would i go about having a metal core.



## Individual (Nov 6, 2013)

Would i have to go to a metal cutting factory or something?
I have no power tools. Except a old jigsaw i may be able to find.


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## Tentacle Toast (Jan 17, 2013)

You'd probably be able to have any local machine shop mill a few out for you...an automobile restoration shop might be able to help you too, as they're likely to have a mill on hand. Good luck!


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## Individual (Nov 6, 2013)

Tentacle Toast said:


> You'd probably be able to have any local machine shop mill a few out for you...an automobile restoration shop might be able to help you too, as they're likely to have a mill on hand. Good luck!


Any idea on costs?


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## Tentacle Toast (Jan 17, 2013)

Probably not much, especially if they've the metal you desire in scrap laying around. Odds would be good that it'd be a request they'd enjoy, so that'd help with costs, too. Unless you're trying for dozens of them, it shouldn't set you back much at all...


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## Gardengroove (Feb 13, 2012)

There is no need for power tools. All my catties with an aluminum core were made with hand tools. Vice, hacksaw, files and sandaper is all you need. Steel can be also worked efficiently with handtools.


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

Gardengroove said:


> There is no need for power tools. All my catties with an aluminum core were made with hand tools. Vice, hacksaw, files and sandaper is all you need. Steel can be also worked efficiently with handtools.


THIS ^^^

Start off with some aluminium and you'll be surprised just how easy it can be to work. Pretty much any tool you use on wood can be used for non ferrous alloys.


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## Individual (Nov 6, 2013)

What thickness for aluminum would you reccomend?

I'm thinking 5mm with 20mm plywood either side, it would be its thickest at the palm swell.


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

3 and 5mm alloy sheet is pretty easy to come by so both are a good starting point while you get used to working with the stuff.

I guess it really depends on what you want your final thickness to be. For my preferred board cuts I aim for a total thickness of about 20mm.

Nothing to stop you from doing multiple layers either. Say 5mm wood, 3mm alloy, 5mm wood, 3mm alloy, 5mm wood etc. Even use the wood as the core with the alloy on the outsides. The only limit is your imagination. I quite like the aluminium on the outside as it's pretty easy to achieve a mirror like finish.

Be sure to rough up the surfaces of the aluminium before glueing it all up. I give it a few licks with 80 grit paper. The rough surface gives the glue a much better purchase. Always use a quality epoxy to bond, something like West Systems or similar. Steer clear of the 5 minute stuff as a slower cure offers a stronger bond.


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## Individual (Nov 6, 2013)

Is this a good price for it?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/aluminium-sheet-plate-300-x-200-x-5-mm-thick-grade-en485-1050-H14-/290801746314?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&hash=item43b522818a

Thanks for all the help!


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

Price is ok but not the grade I would use. 1080 is getting pretty close to pure aluminium and is rather soft.

Look for some 6060 or 6061, T5 or T6 temper.

Wrought alloys[edit]

The International Alloy Designation System is the most widely accepted naming scheme for wrought alloys. Each alloy is given a four-digit number, where the first digit indicates the major alloying elements.


1000 series are essentially _pure aluminium_ with a minimum 99% aluminium content by weight and can be work hardened.
2000 series are alloyed with _copper_, can be precipitation hardened to strengths comparable to steel. Formerly referred to as duralumin, they were once the most common aerospace alloys, but were susceptible to stress corrosion cracking and are increasingly replaced by 7000 series in new designs.
3000 series are alloyed with _manganese_, and can be work hardened.
4000 series are alloyed with _silicon_. They are also known as silumin.
5000 series are alloyed with _magnesium_.
6000 series are alloyed with _magnesium_ and _silicon_, are easy to machine, and can be precipitation hardened, but not to the high strengths that 2000 and 7000 can reach.
7000 series are alloyed with _zinc_, and can be precipitation hardened to the highest strengths of any aluminium alloy.
8000 series is a category mainly used for _lithium_ alloys.[_citation needed_]


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## Individual (Nov 6, 2013)

It took a lot of searching, but I think I found the right stuff at a good rate.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-Flat-Bar-Plate-width-from-120mm-to-250mm-many-thicknesses-and-lengths-/151080276666?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&var=450190730439&hash=item232d1612ba

Opinions?

Its 6082.
Not sure if anyone has experience with it. But the price is right


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

Perfect.

Take a read of this thread by Danny0663 and check out his freaking awesome aluminium build using minimal power tools and a LOT of elbow grease!

http://slingshotforum.com/topic/13738-aluminium-slingshot-build-2-danny0663/?fromsearch=1


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## Individual (Nov 6, 2013)

For the glue/bondant, would the strong "moonputty" epoxy work?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LIQUID-WELD-METAL-PUTTY-EPOXY-RESIN-EXHAUST-RADIATOR-OR-PIPE-REPAIRS-8-SPARES-/220950510560?pt=UK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&hash=item3371ad3be0


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

Nope, that is filler, not a bonding agent.


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## Individual (Nov 6, 2013)

I'm not very educated on "epoxy" and such.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/EPOXY-ADHESIVE-GLASS-LEATHER-PLASTIC/dp/B003BPX9EK

Would that work?
I'm trying to stay as low budget as possible.


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## Hrawk (Oct 25, 2010)

Try and steer away from the quick setting epoxies as generally they are not as strong as the slow curing variants.

This is a product I have used many times with great results:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/ARALDITE-ULTRA-STRONG-STANDARD-EXTRA/dp/B00AU0MW1K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388449737&sr=8-1&keywords=araldite+ultra+strong


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## Gardengroove (Feb 13, 2012)

Better invest a few pounds in a good epoxy glue rather than getting a shock when you notice everything is coming apart and you have put so many hours and dedication into the project  You can use the epoxy for more projects coming up. I use this product. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Epoxy-based-2-component-UHU-adhesive/dp/B00GFSEKI4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1388450370&sr=8-3&keywords=uhu+epoxy


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