# Best way to apply polyurothane varnish ???



## Hunter69 (Jun 23, 2011)

I have made a couple of frames but tried to brush on the poly varnish and it as hot day and was drying almost instantly and leaving horrible brush marks









Short of buying spray varnish what is the applying secrets please ?
And also holding the frame is hard if applying varnish unless you have a pinky hole to wedge a dowel into to hold whilst you apply.......

Any info much appreciated...
Deano


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## mckee (Oct 28, 2010)

i allways use a bush but i never get brush marks


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## Hunter69 (Jun 23, 2011)

mckee said:


> i allways use a bush but i never get brush marks


It must just be me then lol


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## jskeen (Feb 7, 2011)

You can try several things to give the finish a little more time to flow before it sets, and allow the brush marks to disappear like cooling the poly in the fridge for 15 or 20 min before applying it, or cutting a small amount of it with a few drops of mineral spirits in a separate container before applying. You can also apply poly with a soft cloth rather than a brush. You can either buy wipe on poly for this, or just standard plain old cheap gloss poly cut with some thinner, (whatever is recommended for the particular one you are using).

Rattle can poly is nice, but expensive if you use much. I like the spar varnish with the uv inhibitors, but the brush on is a pain to apply, while the spray can version is quite nice.

You can also buff the finish after it is totally cured with either tripoli or white rouge on a cotton buff to smooth it out, and make it much nicer feeling in the hand. The abrasive smooths out the inevitable bumps, and the wax binder kills the residual tackyness inevitable with poly finishes. the larger and softer the buff, the less likely it is to cut through your finish in spots. I use an 8 inch loose cotton flannel buff 2 inches thick mounted in my variable speed lathe to buff frames, among other things.


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## gamekeeper john (Apr 11, 2011)

it sound like u are using the quick drying water based polly? is it a white colour in the tin and then drys clear? i have never got on with this stuff as it seems nearly impossible to get rid of the brush marks, the non quick drying polly takes about 24 hours to dry but you seem to get no brush marks with it! if you are using a brush yaht varnish is great, its cheap / hard wearing / water proof and realy gives a nice finish, 
but the only thing i will use is spray polly, it takes about 24 hours to harden properly but its the best finish i could find 
(and i'v tried s**t loads of varnishes lol) john


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## mckee (Oct 28, 2010)

John how do u mage to put 5 coats of poly on ur catties if the take a day to dry each coat


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## Cap (Jun 22, 2011)

I would guess, spray them 5 days in a row.


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## jskeen (Feb 7, 2011)

actually, you don't need to let each coat cure completely before applying the next, just let it firm up enough to not run when the next coat is applied. Then let all 5 coats cure overnight before you attempt to buff, polish, wax, whatever you do.


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

Interesting post and replies


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## Hunter69 (Jun 23, 2011)

gamekeeper john said:


> it sound like u are using the quick drying water based polly? is it a white colour in the tin and then drys clear? i have never got on with this stuff as it seems nearly impossible to get rid of the brush marks, the non quick drying polly takes about 24 hours to dry but you seem to get no brush marks with it! if you are using a brush yaht varnish is great, its cheap / hard wearing / water proof and realy gives a nice finish,
> but the only thing i will use is spray polly, it takes about 24 hours to harden properly but its the best finish i could find
> (and i'v tried s**t loads of varnishes lol) john


Cheers John yeah looked at the tin it is the quick drying one ......thats what happens when you send the misses


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## shawnr5 (Feb 16, 2011)

I recently picked up some General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Satin polyurethane. It has produced an incredible finish. With it, I sand to at least 120 grit and no more than 220. Then, rub on a coat of poly and wait 12-24 hours for it to dry. Once dry, scuff it lightly with 0000 steel wool , clean it and wipe on another coat. Repeat this until you are happy with the coat that has built up. I applied four coats on my ash/palm slingshot and the fnish is beautiful, without looking plastic. The pictures really don't do the slingshot justice.


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## gamekeeper john (Apr 11, 2011)

mckee said:


> John how do u mage to put 5 coats of poly on ur catties if the take a day to dry each coat


you can recoat after about 2 hours but its 24 hours before it hardened properly


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

shawnr5 said:


> I recently picked up some General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Satin polyurethane. It has produced an incredible finish. With it, I sand to at least 120 grit and no more than 220. Then, rub on a coat of poly and wait 12-24 hours for it to dry. Once dry, scuff it lightly with 0000 steel wool , clean it and wipe on another coat. Repeat this until you are happy with the coat that has built up.


Shawn, this is exactly the way I do mine when I use wipe-on poly. But after the last coat, I polish it a little by just using a bit of mineral oil to lubricate while I buff it with the 0000 steel wool.


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## flippinout (Jul 16, 2010)

It can be thinned with mineral spirits and sprayed through an HVLP sprayer. Quick and no brushes to clean up.


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## shawnr5 (Feb 16, 2011)

As far as holding the slingshot while varnishing, I tie small loops in both ends of a Theraband tie and put them over the band grooves and use the band to hang the frame from the work light dangling from my ceiling. When one coat is dry, I change the slot that the band is in. I use the pipe cleaners I bought for Pinewood Derby to apply the poly in the grooves and any holes.


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## Hunter69 (Jun 23, 2011)

Thanks everyone for all your help on this subject..................
Deano


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## bj000 (Jul 21, 2011)

i dilute the poly with mineral spirts quite a bit. and do many coats,.. 
i have been tinkering with the ratios and the thinner it is, the nicer it will look. but you need to patient


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## Performance Catapults (Feb 3, 2010)

Rattle can spar urethane. 3 coats, let dry, lightly sand with 400. Then apply one (or two) more coat(s). Always worked like a charm for me.


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## philly (Jun 13, 2010)

shawnr5 said:


> I recently picked up some General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Satin polyurethane. It has produced an incredible finish. With it, I sand to at least 120 grit and no more than 220. Then, rub on a coat of poly and wait 12-24 hours for it to dry. Once dry, scuff it lightly with 0000 steel wool , clean it and wipe on another coat. Repeat this until you are happy with the coat that has built up. I applied four coats on my ash/palm slingshot and the fnish is beautiful, without looking plastic. The pictures really don't do the slingshot justice.


Stunning fork Shawn, don't mean to hijack, sorry.
Philly


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## NaturalFork (Jan 21, 2010)

I am hoping mr Flatband chimes in. His slingshots are finished exactly like I like them.


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## bikermikearchery (Sep 30, 2010)

Marine spar urathane mixed with Penatrol and a good natural boars hair brush. You wouldent believe in how much the quality or the brush makes in the finish.


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## hawk2009 (Dec 30, 2009)

I have a spray can of poly but not used it yet as it says to use only on bare untreated wood,will it not stick if I coat the s/shot in beeswax first.


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## Flatband (Dec 18, 2009)

I caught it Ray! I dunk mine Hunter. I put a small hook in the bottom of the handle, dunk the frame after really sanding the heck out of it (3 grits) and a final 000 steel wool rub. Then hang it in a box with a cover that's sealed from any dust. After 24 hours I take it out , give a light sanding ( 3m cloth) or 400 grit paper and the redo. I usually do it 3 times but I've found out recently that on older Poly she will thicken up on you (over time )from opening and closing the can, but I don't thin it , I applied it thick and in a few cases ,got away with one coat-dead smooth-no runs or ripples. After it's all said and done all I have is a few dried drip drops hanging off the prongs which I cut off, give a light sanding too and she's ready to go. You can avoid the drip drops if you're hanging wet frames by waiting abit for the excess to run off,then hang it. That tidbit iof advice comes from Rayshot who I think does his the same way. Good luck Hunter! Flatband


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