# help a novice with bands



## slingingjaymie (Apr 19, 2013)

Hello all, I am new here. I have hunted with some slingshots and rocks before.

I have read over Henry's post regarding psuedo-tapers.

I am intending to cut an "ergo" shooter out of 1/4" steel. Drilling it for a mild weight reduction and wrapping in 550 cord for comfort and palmswell.

Intend to be using .36, .50 and possibly .62 caliber LEAD round balls.

I want to know the best tapers vs softest draw.

I have read 2040 was king for the 36cal. I was unable to determine if it was a psuedo-taper or dual-psuedo(two or four total tubes).

I was thinking psuedo 2040 for the 36cal, dual-psuedo 1842 for the 50 and possibly some dual pseudo 1745 on the 62cal.

Wanting the longest lifespan with least slap. Not interested in being a "300 club" or anything else. Only efficient hunting combinations.

My preferred shooting is "intuitive" and aiming with the "gangster" and angled forks.

Apologies all around for poor "lingo". Very unfamiliar with all the terms. I like the over the top(Ott) style. No flat bands. I want longevity and low cost. Using the Chinese style mounting for fast field changes either in break or ammunition swaps.

Saw the dipped latex from the flippinout slingshot webpage. Unsure of it in comparison to dankung. Only found reference posts about Dankung tubing. Lurked here for a few weeks trying to mastermind a more efficient package.

My goals are transfer of energy and penetration(only for 36). Hunting fowl, small and medium game. For use while backpacking. Hunting range will be 50yards and less. Looking for clean takes.

Thank you to everyone in advance. =>

Oh, I forgot to mention. Draw will be 26". With larger rounds I can pull 20-25#.

Happy shooting


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## August West (Jan 21, 2012)

I think latex flats shoot harder with less draw and last just as long, or almost as long as psuedo tapers and are a whole lot easier to make. I started out with tubes and only shoot latex flats now.


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## slingingjaymie (Apr 19, 2013)

August, thank you for the fast response! While I too have read many reports about flat bands having pros, I can not think of a cheap way to make them accomplish my goals. They are more expensive and time consuming in the field. Other than using tubes to be tied into the flats allowing a fast interchange with the hooped fork...

I have no experience with flat bands nor will pretend to. I have read several accounts of them being a nuisance with straightening them. Plus being rip prone.

What I am getting at is, how will they handle the brush in Missouri while I am chasing a rabbit, squirrel, fowl or stalking something larger.

Eating fish gets old. Now this is not a hunting thread; trying to stay on topic. Granted other people are not interested in the same uses of this as myself...

I just want help selecting the most efficient tubes. No pictures, no stories.

From everything I've read, there can be multiple tube combinations for various speed and grain.

Has anyone mix-matched the pseudo tapers? Two 2040, two 1842? Pairing one each per fork. Or will this cause firing issues? I am use to the store bought big tubes or a long strand of unknown medical tubing on a Y fork.

Needless to say the performance was typically sub-satisfactory.

I am in no way trying to be crass, narrow sighted or obnoxious. Trying to clarify my goals, desires and constraints.

Thank you!


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## August West (Jan 21, 2012)

I only target shoot so I can hit game better if that tells you anything about me. I can change flats in the field FAST, not as fast as looped tubes but fast enough not to notice, I inspect my bands frequently and have never had to make an emergency field change though. Honestly never got very good longevity out of the psuedos, I don't think as good as the latex. Another thing is one size of flats will cover everything from 36 to 62 depending on the taper and if they are doubled or single. I can't imagine Missouri thickets would be any worse than ours.

A lot of people like to gripe about the flats but I really don't see it. They are easy to make with the right equip, rotary cutter and mat, and they last plenty good for me, and honestly there really is no comparing the performance.


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## August West (Jan 21, 2012)

I used to be a hard core tube shooter, since I discovered latex I really don't think I will go back to tubes ever.


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## kobe23 (Jun 28, 2010)

50 yards is a long way.


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## ash (Apr 23, 2013)

Looks like you've done your research, ,know what you want and have a lot of the factors already worked out. With your draw length I'd be looking at the heavier of those Dankung tubes doubled rather than pseudo, to minimise the chances of slippage while you're in the field. One less thing to go wrong when you draw on your quarry..

After reading up on the Tex Shooter dipped latex last night, I would also be looking at getting some of those to try out, also doubled.

Once you've tried doubled you could then cut them down a bit a re-tie in progressively shorter pseudo tapers until you find the combo that works best with each ammo weight.


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## slingingjaymie (Apr 19, 2013)

Thank you for the great responses!

I did a quick search on the Tex dipped latex. Did not see which post you mention, Ash.

Appreciate all the feedback.

As far as tying the pseudo, was intending to use a short piece of tube stretched over the psuedo-joint(also stretched). Would like to hear how other users have fared with that attachment method. Always had the waxed string eventually cut tubes.

I was trying to discern the different rate of taper from Henry's thread.

Would the dipped latex also be the same amber stuff the simple-shot vendor stocks? I looked at it but was unsure what to choose. Any and all input on various tubes, tube/round combination and other experience is widely accepted and even more appreciated.

So, a shorter tube length with heavier tubes is recommended for a draw length of mine? Would it still be best to work from a 1:1 ratio like henry reports in his thread for pseudo taper in my scenario? I could always experiment.

If I recall(without looking back) henry posted that the double(non pseudo) 2040 bands produced the best results with the .36lead? Could anyone rationalise this to me? With the lighter mass and pseudo wrapped 2040's I anticipated better results.

Apologies for asking questions that probably pop up very often.

Yes, fifty yards is a long range. It is also the end of my comfort zone. Believing in mastering an art before using it, there will be much catching of shot and sacrificial band sets.

Thank you everyone!


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## August West (Jan 21, 2012)

Looks to me you have done your homework and figured out what you want to try. The only thing left is to get some tubes and start shooting, no one can tell you your perfect setup you will just have to figure that out through trial and error.


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## slingingjaymie (Apr 19, 2013)

I did a little deeper digging and apparently the amber stuff is faster with a shorter lifespan when it comes to the simple-shot/Tex bands. Ina thread i believe Tex posts stating they are the same. Apparently the black has more rubber content making it harder to draw and a tad slower. For the tradeoff of more lifespan.

I thought about the 2040 double vs 1842 pseudo-taper and accordingly I've come to the assessment being that the 2040 was forced to carry the max load it retained less unspent energy. Maximizing the transfer. Perhaps I am looking at this wrong.

Because of that thought, I was thinking the balance(length) of the taper would produce similar results. That weight of the pouch and round when coupled to the weight of the band would best be neutral. This is all perfunctory interjection as of now. I have no chronograph so testing will be limited.

I welcome any and all input on this.

From my (extremely)limited knowledge, I seem to understand the tapered flat bands generate the "best" force with the greatest taper. Something about having the large fork side, narrow pouch side causes a great initial torque followed by a rapid contraction.

The pseudo-taper should work in a similar manner? Going with this I am guessing the length of the loop against the length of the single affects velocity vs mass.

I remember seeing a few other fellows mention using varied lengths of their loop. A different ratio of 1:1. Although unsure if their longevity was due to poor knots, overloading or over stretching. Seems to me Henry had strong results with his 1:1 with ample life. Has there been any more large reports on that style of taper beyond Henry's massive thread?

Greatly appreciate all the help and insight! Everyone here is great


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## August West (Jan 21, 2012)

Wow dude, order some rubber and start shooting.Your head is going to explode.  LOL

PM me and I'll send you some to try for free, no way reading other peoples work will tell you what you will like, give you an idea yes but until you shoot it, it is still jsut an idea.


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## slingingjaymie (Apr 19, 2013)

Pm'ed. Thanks everyone! So much knowledge here. Head definitely is swelling


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