# Flatband Tips..



## bullseyeben!

Gday everyone,
Its often discussed how one makes a good, lasting and powerfull set of flats. Most of us know that light pull bands can be very fast, ammo weight considered; thicker bands shoot heavy ammo faster than thin at same dimensions ie tb blue vs gold. that tapered cuts don't last like straights etc etc..

These things aside I have a few things I always do when cutting a flat rig, as do others I'm sure..so here's a few tips Id like to share, and please give any other ideas if you have any.

*1*. Always ensure your rotary cutter is Sharp, free of any knicks possibly from contacting a metal ruler when guiding. As knicks in the blade convert to knicks in the bands, that turn into tears in the bands quickly.​
*2*. In relation to the above, I would recommend a aluminium ruler as opposed to steel, preferably with soft rounded edges, to lessen the chance of ruler to blade contact.​
*3*. When making the cut, ensure the cutter is as verticle as possible, as any angle will effectively chamfer or bevel the bands, making the extreme edge of the bands thinner than the bands themself, making them tear much faster. Hope that makes sense..​
*4*. If you cut your own pouches too, use a separate blade.​
*5*. I definetly recommend pouch end tying with the wrap tuck method..and that said, tied off with a lighter or thinner rubber than the bands themself. Ie tb gold bands, tb blue ties..this keeps weight down, and I find less abrasive on the bands.. I cut the tie rubber at 30mm x 5mm, 4 wraps then tuck then 2 wraps, pull through with a saliver dampened string.
Have the bands moderate stretched before commencing this process, and at this moderate stretch, the pouch holes should be similar size.​
*6*. When cutting from a fresh roll of ie tb gold, I take close to 1mm off they're edges, both sides as I've noticed they're factory cutter leaves them infamous knicks mentioned above..​
*7*. Forks must be very smooth, especially when ott tying.. and the first wrap of the ties not too tight..as with pouch end.​
*8*. The heavier the taper, if done, the faster pouch end will wear. Ie: A 25mm fork to 10mm pouch rig will wear at the pouch faster than 10mm straight as the taper stresses the thinner part faster.​
*9*. Try extending your draw.. ie 6 inch bands will usually last a lot less than 9inch, yet speed can be similar but life increased as the bands have the distance to accelerate, with out hard stretching the rubber.​
*10*. Match your ammo wisely to the bands, very light ammo with over powered bands rob life.​
I hope this helps some, and please feel free to add to this if I've forgotten anything.


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## akmslingshots

good post Ben, very helpfull


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## bullseyeben!

Cheers mate, no worries...some newbies may find it helpful in one way or another.. cheers mate


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## akmslingshots

not just the newbies lol, I didn't think of trimming a mill of the edges and after looking could be the reason I have lost bandsets so quickly!!!


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## Dry Creek

I am new to making bands for myself. I appreciate all the post like this. I need all the free advice I can get.


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## Hrawk

Awesome post Ben !

In regards to point 3, I no longer use a ruler when cutting, sure I use one to mark the dimensions, but when cutting, I use a strip of 4mm thick aluminium bar. I find this is much easier to keep the blade pressed against with no chance of tilting or nicking the blade.

ps. If you don't click 'Like This' on Bens post, you are a giant poo poo head!


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## newconvert

Dry Creek said:


> I am new to making bands for myself. I appreciate all the post like this. I need all the free advice I can get.


free? your statement is in the mail!


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## newconvert

thanks Ben, it helps to reinforce these simple yet effective techniques, a person can get in a hurry, or not check the bands close enough and end up getting slapped in the face, even though it has never happened to me lol!


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## Stevotattoo

Great post mate...thanks, it's really helped a newbie like me


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## treefork

Well done!


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## Eyeball75

Nice one Ben. I guess you could say *puts sun glasses on* that you hit the bullseye with this thread!


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## lightgeoduck

Hrawk said:


> Awesome post Ben !
> 
> In regards to point 3, I no longer use a ruler when cutting, sure I use one to mark the dimensions, but when cutting, I use a strip of 4mm thick aluminium bar. I find this is much easier to keep the blade pressed against with no chance of tilting or nicking the blade.
> 
> ps. If you don't click 'Like This' on Bens post, you are a giant poo poo head!


I "like this" on Bens post, but I still think I am a giant poo poo head.

LGD


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## Charles

Excellent post, Ben. This will be extremely useful to a great many.

Cheers ....... Charles


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## Dayhiker

Thanks Ben. Good advice for all.


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## Tirador

Why didn't you post this two years ago?!? You could have saved me a lot of time reading!!! (haha just kidding)
GREAT POST!!!


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## Quercusuber

_It's because of posts like this one that we learn so much on this site!!_
_Very good!!!_


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## bullseyeben!

Cheers all








Give them tubes a run for their money


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## Mr. IO Slinger

Very well said..


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## Devoman

Great tips, thanks!


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## fsa46

Great post....thanks for sharing.


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## islanders888

You just tought a noob some cool stuff. Any chart on Band to ammo relation? I couldn't find any post about it. I just got 3/8 steel balls and am not sure what dimension I should cut my TB. Thanks,
-kenny


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## bullseyeben!

islanders888 said:


> You just tought a noob some cool stuff. Any chart on Band to ammo relation? I couldn't find any post about it. I just got 3/8 steel balls and am not sure what dimension I should cut my TB. Thanks,
> -kenny


Well Kenny, how longs your draw? Do you want fast bands that lack life but kick butt? Or do you want long lasting target shooting bands? Are you using tb gold, blue, black, silver, or other? As the shooter you need to decide what's best for you..
Keeping things simple, and assuming you draw is similar to mine (rather long) i would suggest a good combination between speed and life span, shooting 3/8 steel would be a 9 to 10" cut, with tb gold tapered around 20mm fork to 15mm pouch.. but it really depends most on what works for you








All the best mate..


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## faca

bullseyeben! said:


> Gday everyone,
> Its often discussed how one makes a good, lasting and powerfull set of flats. Most of us know that light pull bands can be very fast, ammo weight considered; thicker bands shoot heavy ammo faster than thin at same dimensions ie tb blue vs gold. that tapered cuts don't last like straights etc etc..
> 
> These things aside I have a few things I always do when cutting a flat rig, as do others I'm sure..so here's a few tips Id like to share, and please give any other ideas if you have any.
> 
> *1*. Always ensure your rotary cutter is Sharp, free of any knicks possibly from contacting a metal ruler when guiding. As knicks in the blade convert to knicks in the bands, that turn into tears in the bands quickly.​
> *2*. In relation to the above, I would recommend a aluminium ruler as opposed to steel, preferably with soft rounded edges, to lessen the chance of ruler to blade contact.​
> *3*. When making the cut, ensure the cutter is as verticle as possible, as any angle will effectively chamfer or bevel the bands, making the extreme edge of the bands thinner than the bands themself, making them tear much faster. Hope that makes sense..​
> *4*. If you cut your own pouches too, use a separate blade.​
> *5*. I definetly recommend pouch end tying with the wrap tuck method..and that said, tied off with a lighter or thinner rubber than the bands themself. Ie tb gold bands, tb blue ties..this keeps weight down, and I find less abrasive on the bands.. I cut the tie rubber at 30mm x 5mm, 4 wraps then tuck then 2 wraps, pull through with a saliver dampened string.
> Have the bands moderate stretched before commencing this process, and at this moderate stretch, the pouch holes should be similar size.​
> *6*. When cutting from a fresh roll of ie tb gold, I take close to 1mm off they're edges, both sides as I've noticed they're factory cutter leaves them infamous knicks mentioned above..​
> *7*. Forks must be very smooth, especially when ott tying.. and the first wrap of the ties not too tight..as with pouch end.​
> *8*. The heavier the taper, if done, the faster pouch end will wear. Ie: A 25mm fork to 10mm pouch rig will wear at the pouch faster than 10mm straight as the taper stresses the thinner part faster.​
> *9*. Try extending your draw.. ie 6 inch bands will usually last a lot less than 9inch, yet speed can be similar but life increased as the bands have the distance to accelerate, with out hard stretching the rubber.​
> *10*. Match your ammo wisely to the bands, very light ammo with over powered bands rob life.​
> I hope this helps some, and please feel free to add to this if I've forgotten anything.


hi I agree with your points but my problem is always at pouch where the bands break ???.
I use gold TB tappered from 30mm to 20mm+marbles+200mm length and 780mm pull length.
Do you know with could be the cause for my breaks with this setup?
Thanks


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## Berkshire bred

you are stretching the bands quite a bit and that is quite a taper. are you cutting the bands carefully? how long is not long?


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## AJW

Great posting with lots of meat in it, wish I had this to read when I started. I don't think anyone will get more value from these tips than I will. Thanks bulleye.

(LGD I'm no poo poo head)


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## faca

I see some nicks along the side of bands I don´t know if caused by my cutter or becouse aged rubber?


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## bullseyeben!

faca said:


> I see some nicks along the side of bands I don´t know if caused by my cutter or becouse aged rubber?


If all the above most points made earlier are checked off, you should minimize the chance of these nasty nicks. Aged rubber won't suddenly grow nicks, always keep your rubber in air/ light tight storage to slow its ageing or deteriation process.. all the best


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## Rayshot

Glad you have noticed and posted on #6, the rough edges. I make sure of a clean cut edge too.

The whole list is good. I have made several templates for band sizes. One of them I used a piece of the composite material masonite and it works well. With pressure on the edge of the template the rougher back side holds onto the latex well.

Templates are the bomb for band cutting.


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## trobbie66

Great advice!! Figured i would post to bump up the post for the noobs, and vetrans alike.


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## Saderath

Thanks for sharing!


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## SlingshotJustice

Hey guys, I am wondering what the easiest flat band is to pull back. I am only 14 and fairly small and weak... Keep in mind I am wanting to put this flat band on a wooden slingshot in which does not have a wrist brace. Thank you and please reply!!!!


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## trobbie66

SlingshotJustice said:


> Hey guys, I am wondering what the easiest flat band is to pull back. I am only 14 and fairly small and weak... Keep in mind I am wanting to put this flat band on a wooden slingshot in which does not have a wrist brace. Thank you and please reply!!!!


Any flatband can be easy to pull. First a few questions. What band are you working with and what ammo and what is your draw length?


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## SlingshotJustice

Answer to trobbie66:

I change up my draw length but usually I like my bands long so my draw length will be short and easy to pull the bands.

I want a flat band ( something similar to theraband or something)

and I will only shoot 3/8 inch or bigger.


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## LostMarbles

SlingshotJustice said:


> Answer to trobbie66:
> 
> I change up my draw length but usually I like my bands long so my draw length will be short and easy to pull the bands.
> 
> I want a flat band ( something similar to theraband or something)
> 
> and I will only shoot 3/8 inch or bigger.


You can measure your draw length with a tape measure and that will help you know what to look for and others to offer advice. Just hold in your hand and draw it back to your anchor point. That's your draw length. Or if you only have ruler use some string or such, draw, then measure it.

A band I have enjoyed for the ability to tear through cans easily and draws rather lightly (don't know the actual poundage but under 10lbs I would guess) is the tapered flat bands in .030 latex from SimpleShot. The width determines how hard it would be to draw but the tapered .875" works good with 3/8" ammo & 5/8" SuperPouch. The tapered 1.25" is harder to pull but really shoots hard and fast. When they tear, just cut them shorter, retie, and enjoy the faster speed & slightly harder draw but reduced band life.


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## trobbie66

SlingshotJustice said:


> Answer to trobbie66:
> 
> I change up my draw length but usually I like my bands long so my draw length will be short and easy to pull the bands.
> 
> I want a flat band ( something similar to theraband or something)
> 
> and I will only shoot 3/8 inch or bigger.


K I hope Aaron doesnt thump me for telling you this. Im sure the info is here too if you search,but. Go to the slingshot channel forum. there Joerg has a band calculator. put in the type of band you have and the draw you want and it will tell you how to cut your bands. Everyone has thier own ideas, but the calculator is a decent place to start. Theraband isnt the only band material out there, also check the vendors thread here. There are guys there that will make sure you get what you want and need. good luck and dont over think enjoy first!!


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## Charles

http://www.slingshotchannel.com/band_calc.html

Cheers ..... Charles


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## trobbie66

Thank you Charles


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## Jeff Lazerface

kool


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## oldmiser

as I am new to cutting bands..this is excellent advice for me..thank you for sharing~AKAOldmiser


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## Kettiefreak

Great post....very helpfull... keep them tips coming!


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## Grada

Thanks, good advices.

Cheers.


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## Erickol

Thank You. good stuff for newbies like me


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## erniepc1

Good advice never gets old. Thanks for the good info.


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