# The OTT no tie, no tools band attachment method



## Bill Hays

This is a method I came up with just prior to the Universal Forks, in an attempt to help alleviate handslap.... It does help a lot but on the advise of my Wife we never came out with this... as if done a little wrong then it's possible for the bands to come loose. Whereas with the Universal Forks, the tie on method keeps the bands from slipping and unless you do something _really_ wrong, they won't come off.

Anyway, here it is... the fastest, easiest method I know of for attaching in an OTT fashion with no tools or ties.
Feel free to use the method yourself... but experiment a little with hole size and roll up size needed first before doing anything to drastic with it.

Note the slingshot used here is one of my Mini-Hunter designs with a touch higher forks... it's 3/4" thick ballistic grade G10. The slot is cut off center (2/3 from back) on purpose so that the leading edge (side closest to the shooter) can be rounded over a touch more.


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## e~shot

Bill that is the best and quick attachment method I ever saw. Good job.


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## SuwaneeRick

Awesome. I'm going to try it. Thanks


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## Rockape66

*Bill, just an idea. Maybe cut the slot on a slight bias; front towards the back. That might eliminate any slips. Let me know what you think.*


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## Alex Jacob

Genius. That vies with the Dankung method for quick change. Might just have to get myself some theraband...


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## Wingshooter

I have to say that is a cleaner looking than on the front like I did. I will give that a try but like Rockape66 I am going to angle the slots slightly. It would be nice to have an over the top method without hand slap for us sissy's.


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## Tex-Shooter

I think that Wingshooter has been doing that. It is something that we looked at in 2006. Be careful of bands pulling off to the side by newcomers. -- Tex -- Edit -- Wingshooter beat me with a post!


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## orcrender

Could that be done and have a shaft pushed into the center of the roll that would keep it in the slot?


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## Charles

It looks great, and would make band changes a real snap. I have NO experience with this ... and Bill, I trust you. But I cannot help but feel very uneasy about the bands slipping out ... just my psychology. Perhaps after a lot of experience, I would come to trust it. However, I figure that if it can be done wrong, then I will do it!!!

Cheers ...... Charles


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## Wingshooter

Bill I had to try it and it works darn good. I have been shooting the 3/8 steel with my 1" bands pulled to 34" and no hand slap. I slanted my slots slightly and stayed with a flat top. These forks are 1 1 /8" high so I should have got some hand slap. Pretty cool idea.


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## Bill Hays

Tex-Shooter said:


> Bill I had to try it and it works darn good. I have been shooting the 3/8 steel with my 1" bands pulled to 34" and no hand slap. I slanted my slots slightly and stayed with a flat top. These forks are 1 1 /8" high so I should have got some hand slap. Pretty cool idea.


Seeing your other method reminded me of this one so I posted it. You're very innovative and are always thinking... I'm very happy that you like it!


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## Wingshooter

I put a set of 3/4 bands in this top slot setup to see how they would react. I have been shooting it all afternoon from an anchor, I don't generally shoot from an anchor anymore. In my opinion it is an exellant way to shoot. What I noticed right away was that it had a clean look about it. Another one to go in my favorite pile.


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## XxDollarBillxX

very nice, simple idea.

im gunna give this a try for sure.


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## treefork

Point well made about personal usage vs suitabity to mass.


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## Dayhiker

Next natural I make is going to have this feature. Thanks for posting this, guys.


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## Rayshot

Another one to put in our list of methods for slingshots.


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## treefork

I tried this attachment today. I love it. No more hand slaps! Works like Bill said even with light ammo. No way are the bands going to pull out if you make it tight. Shoots great. You must try this. Thanks Bill Hayes!


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## NaturalFork




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## AZshooter

Very inventive way of attaching bands...What size would the channel ( hole ) be?...Would this vary with different thicknesses of banding material?...Will this technique work with metal, and other slick plastics, like cutting boards used for making slingshots?...Have you noticed any variations in the lengths of band sets after extended use?...Do the band sets wear well compared to other tying methods?...This technique is well worth exploring...Thanks for giving us the information!


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## Wingshooter

AZ shooter said:


> Very inventive way of attaching bands...What size would the channel ( hole ) be?...Would this vary with different thicknesses of banding material?...Will this technique work with metal, and other slick plastics, like cutting boards used for making slingshots?...Have you noticed any variations in the lengths of band sets after extended use?...Do the band sets wear well compared to other tying methods?...This technique is well worth exploring...Thanks for giving us the information!


I made myself another one taking a little more care. I used a 3/16 bit for the hole. The slot is the same size as a regular hacksaw blade. I use a pull style cutoff saw to cut it. I put a slight foward angle in it to add just a little more hold to the bands. I came in from the back and down from the top 3/8 for the hole. The slot starts 1/4 in from the back and I cut to the back side of the hole to give a little more offset to the band. I sanded lightly with 100 grit folded in three layers. The leading edge I rounded slightly just to make sure there are no sharp edges. You will notice i made the top of the slingshot flat I am sure this helps.
I fold the ends of the bands twice about a quater of an inch Then stretch them from side to side and slide them down into the slot you can feel when they snap in to place. I use the .030 latex but I put a set of theraband bands on one and they fit fine. I also tried a set of 3/4 bands same results.
Shooting, absolutly excellant results very accurate I may covert back to over the top I am so enthused. I was out shooting early and found a couple of 3/8 that were by my catch box I shot them this morning with cold hands and no hand slap. Some times you find ways of doing things that just feel right from the very begining This is one of them. I shoot sideways and have had no slippage at all with the bands.
Bill may not recomend it but Ido. After all we are the same bunch that holds heavy rubber bands streched out as far as we can get them then hold one end to our face and hope they don't break not only once but many times. mmmm.


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## Incomudro

Hmmmm...
I'll be waiting to see a Recurve Hunter in spectraply featuring this attachment method!


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## Bill Hays

Exactly what Roger said.
Hacksaw sized slot, and a 1/8" drilled hole is what I use... 3/16 works fine as well.

Whenever I do videos I try to use the exact same type of attachments and generally the same type of slingshots I sell... or if checking out someone else's, like I've done with some of Roger's, those.
What I don't show is MANY other ideas that may or may not work for just everybody. Some things works very well and just need a little more testing before releasing, and some things are a little wonky to be released to the general public.
This particular attachment method is the one I use on my own little pocket sized shooters that I take out with me when I'm working on the farm... as the bands can be taken off, changed or whatever in seconds and the mini sized slingshot doesn't get in the way while working.... I have shot using this method many thousands of rounds and have been through maybe 30 bandsets, some doubles but mainly singles of varying thicknesses of latexes.... and I have NEVER had even one failure, slippage or any other problems with it.

Again, the ONLY reason I never released this is we were just afraid some kid would not roll or fold the edge so there's a minimum of three layers in the channel or slot to hold it tightly enough... he/she would pull back and SNAP a band pops out and hits them in the eye... then because I sold it to them... well, in this litigious society you know what comes next!

And again, so long as you roll or fold the end of the band like Roger or I have shown in the pics above... stretch it out, pull all the way down to the hole, center the thing and release into the hole/channel... it works BETTER than tying. It's faster, easier, can be done "in the field", and the sight picture is more "pure" and unobstructed as well.
It really IS the best method for OTT shooting.


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## M.J

NaturalFork said:


>


So you like it, then?


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## NaturalFork

M_J said:


>


So you like it, then?








[/quote]

Indeed.


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## Bill Hays

I was playing around with this a little just now... trying to figure out a way to make it "idiot" proof... and there is a way!
Pretty simple too... all you've got to do is fold the latex flat around a short piece of 1745 tube... stretch the sides while inserting into the slot and hole... voila easy as that!


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## filipino_saltik

Bill Hays said:


> I was playing around with this a little just now... trying to figure out a way to make it "idiot" proof... and there is a way!
> Pretty simple too... all you've got to do is fold the latex flat around a short piece of 1745 tube... stretch the sides while inserting into the slot and hole... voila easy as that!


thats the method iv been tinking of to prevent the bands from sliping even a single match atachment maybe great to . isnt it guys?


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## Charles

Bill Hays said:


> Exactly what Roger said.
> Hacksaw sized slot, and a 1/8" drilled hole is what I use... 3/16 works fine as well.
> 
> Whenever I do videos I try to use the exact same type of attachments and generally the same type of slingshots I sell... or if checking out someone else's, like I've done with some of Roger's, those.
> What I don't show is MANY other ideas that may or may not work for just everybody. Some things works very well and just need a little more testing before releasing, and some things are a little wonky to be released to the general public.
> This particular attachment method is the one I use on my own little pocket sized shooters that I take out with me when I'm working on the farm... as the bands can be taken off, changed or whatever in seconds and the mini sized slingshot doesn't get in the way while working.... I have shot using this method many thousands of rounds and have been through maybe 30 bandsets, some doubles but mainly singles of varying thicknesses of latexes.... and I have NEVER had even one failure, slippage or any other problems with it.
> 
> Again, the ONLY reason I never released this is we were just afraid some kid would not roll or fold the edge so there's a minimum of three layers in the channel or slot to hold it tightly enough... he/she would pull back and SNAP a band pops out and hits them in the eye... then because I sold it to them... well, in this litigious society you know what comes next!
> 
> And again, so long as you roll or fold the end of the band like Roger or I have shown in the pics above... stretch it out, pull all the way down to the hole, center the thing and release into the hole/channel... it works BETTER than tying. It's faster, easier, can be done "in the field", and the sight picture is more "pure" and unobstructed as well.
> It really IS the best method for OTT shooting.


O.K., O.K. ... you have convinced me to try it. As soon as I get back from Belize I will give it a go.

Cheers ...... Charles


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## theolithic71

Bill or Wingshooter,
If y'all don't mind continuing to share...
what is the width of your kerf for the slot? What size is the drilled hole? I don't wanna wreck a ss by experimenting if I don't have to.


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## Bill Hays

The slot is as wide as a standard hacksaw blade makes it... the hole I use is 1/8" and Roger's is 3/16".


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## theolithic71

Bill Hays said:


> The slot is as wide as a standard hacksaw blade makes it... the hole I use is 1/8" and Roger's is 3/16".


Thank you sir. The ss community is awesome. Kind of eutopian.


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## theolithic71

Oops, Utopian, I mean


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## Bill Hays

I don't know about Utopian... but we all do tend to share a lot.
Anyway, use this method of band attachement and you'll wonder why you ever tied 'em on in the first place as it makes tying totally passe.... as it's faster to change bandsets, improved site picture with a cleaner look, changes can be done without tools or ties, the bands last longer and it helps to reduce the potential for that wicked handslap thing!


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## jskeen

I wanted to chime in and confirm that this method is super for minimizing band slap!  I'm attaching a couple of pics of the first of many forks I (plan to anyway) modify with this. This was my "squashed" version of bills ranger

http://slingshotforu...__fromsearch__1

but honestly, I had pretty much sidelined it because of the nasty slap even with fairly light bands and heavy ammo. A 10 minute modification, and I put the same bands back on, and ran about 50 or 60 rounds of 1/4 and 5/16 steel through it. Even with very light ammo the slap was minimal, I could hear the pouch smacking the front of the forks. It was rebounding almost straight back and not even dropping the less than 1 inch needed to smack my left index finger most of the time! I'm amazed!

My next try will use a slightly larger drill bit so I can use a piece of 1745 the width of the forks to wrap the band around, as I like the idea of the extra security the tube expanding to lock the band into the hole on all sides seems like it would give. It also seems to be a bit more idiot proof, as we all know how darn inventive those idiots out there can be. I also plan to drill a bit closer to the tip, shortening the slot some. But I honestly can't see a downside to this method, and the improvement is immense so far.

Thanks Bill!

Pardon the unretouched cell phone pics


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## Wingshooter

It sounds like you have been coverted. The bands won't come loose but your right I think the tubes are a foolproof way to go. I have one setup with just a straght cut no hole at all and the bands hold. You can also use this method for doubles.


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## Bill Hays

jskeen said:


> I wanted to chime in and confirm that this method is super for minimizing band slap! I'm attaching a couple of pics of the first of many forks I (plan to anyway) modify with this. This was my "squashed" version of bills ranger
> 
> http://slingshotforu...__fromsearch__1
> 
> but honestly, I had pretty much sidelined it because of the nasty slap even with fairly light bands and heavy ammo. A 10 minute modification, and I put the same bands back on, and ran about 50 or 60 rounds of 1/4 and 5/16 steel through it. Even with very light ammo the slap was minimal, I could hear the pouch smacking the front of the forks. It was rebounding almost straight back and not even dropping the less than 1 inch needed to smack my left index finger most of the time! I'm amazed!
> 
> My next try will use a slightly larger drill bit so I can use a piece of 1745 the width of the forks to wrap the band around, as I like the idea of the extra security the tube expanding to lock the band into the hole on all sides seems like it would give. It also seems to be a bit more idiot proof, as we all know how darn inventive those idiots out there can be. I also plan to drill a bit closer to the tip, shortening the slot some. But I honestly can't see a downside to this method, and the improvement is immense so far.
> 
> Thanks Bill!
> 
> Pardon the unretouched cell phone pics


Hey, that is a sweet looking Ranger natural!
I'm glad you like the attachment method... it's all I use on my own personal OTT shooters. Yes you can do it without the hole, but as Roger points out the hole makes attaching doubles easier.... and that's what I used to shoot with all the time until I figured out that I'm not shooting .50 or larger cal lead so the 2nd band only adds maybe 20 fps... which I more than make up for with a longer pull due to a lighter draw weight!

I was advised by a couple of different people in the past on what would make a good slingshot for general selling... one of the things I was told was that for liability reasons the fork ends need to be at least an inch away from the hand.
With this attachment, the band backlash hits a maximum of 1" from the top of the fork, and with a lot less energy than the tied on bands rebound with as well... So long as the forktips are 1" away you should never get a handslap... and even if they're less than an inch, for example 1/2" like on my own minis, you still only get a minor tickle every now and then... nothing like the full blown whipcrack you sometimes get from the tied on bands.

Also, it same thing works just fine with a shorter slot... so long as you have an edge to stretch the band against... you'll be fine. However I wouldn't recommend shorter than diameter of your retaining hole/channel.


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## Devoman

Very cool, thanks for all the info, that why I love this forum!


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## Bill Hays

You're more than welcome... you might think about a Yo model to utilize it with!


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## Tex-Shooter

I think that is the way that Wingshooter does it. -- Tex


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## Tex-Shooter

_ I am going to give this a try myself! -- Tex_


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## jskeen

A second update from me on this method seems to be in order, as I've finished several more mods and think that the method just keeps improving. I have been concentrating on the width of the slot and the size of the hole to try to find the most flexible size combination for different bands. I started out with a standard hack saw width slot, and it's fantastic for single tbg. I'm not sure what size the original drill bit was, but it worked great with a roll and a half on the bottom of the band, ie 4 thicknesses across the roll. It was a little struggle to get down through the slot, so I did a bit of sanding to open it up a little. Worked great for singles, but no way were doubles or a piece of tube wrapped in the bands going through. Next I tried a crown tennon saw with 14 tpi , but the kerf was not much wider, although the saw was much easier to use than an hacksaw  Finally moved up to my standard disston D-8 8tpi crosscut , and a letter size drill bit (can't recall which) between 3/8 and 1/4. that combo after sanding smooth allows for using single tbg wrapped around a piece of 1745 tube easily, and also double tbg rolled 1.5 times, as well as 107 bands rolled 2 times. Easy and smooth to change, and secure once released, I'm thinking that's going to be my new standard combination (for now at least)

I'm up to 5 frames modified to use this method, and no plans to go back to ties for now.


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## Wingshooter

I am with you. I can no longer see any reason to tie bands on. Because 99.9% of my shooting is at cans, catus or the stray pigeon I shoot single 1 inch bands. I have settled on the 3/16 hole and the slot cut with the 1/4 inch band saw bland with a little sanding. I found the slightly larger hole lets me slide the bands to the side a little easier when i need to change them out. I have also quite rounding the fork tips I try and keep them as flat as possible. Just sanding the edges so there are no sharp spots. My preffered method is to fold the ends of the bands twice just under a 1/4 inch I can keep them uniform that way.


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## Flatband

That is really sharp Guys! Another new(for me anyway) way of band attachment. Nice job! Flatband


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## Rayshot

I appreciate all the input from you guys that have had the time to experiment with this. This is a really good thing for us entusiasts even if not a legally wise thing to offer to the commercial industry.


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## Jaxter

That is really clever


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## Wingshooter

Here is a demonstration how good this setup holds. I grabed the band at the end of the fork.There is 1/4 of band in the fork before it rolls in the hole. I pulled straight out in line with the slot and streched the band to 3 1/2 inches until the band would not stretch any more. As long as there is a roll of rubber on the end of the band it will not come out. If done correctly it will hold as good as any other way of attaching bands.


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## treefork

Wingshooter said:


> Here is a demonstration how good this setup holds. I grabed the band at the end of the fork.There is 1/4 of band in the fork before it rolls in the hole. I pulled straight out in line with the slot and streched the band to 3 1/2 inches until the band would not stretch any more. As long as there is a roll of rubber on the end of the band it will not come out. If done correctly it will hold as good as any other way of attaching bands.


 I hear ya. i've been using this and will vouch for it. I don,t think every body realizes how good this set up is. I'm not seeing it much in posts.


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## Flatband

Next one I do will surely have it as the attachment! Kudos to Roger and Bill and anyone else I missed who came up with this gem!!!!! Flatband


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## NaturalFork

My next frame will have this attachment method for sure.


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## BIG PAPA

Outstanding method of attachment.....ya'll making me spend more time in the workshop.


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## treefork

BIG PAPA said:


> Outstanding method of attachment.....ya'll making me spend more time in the workshop.


Should work out nice on the "Tsunami"


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## wombat

I love the idea, as I hate tying bands so tend to just drill a hole and pull the tube through. but so far no one has mentioned that by drilling a horizontal hole you've made a 3/4" inch thick fork into almost a 1/2 inch one. It might be okay for light bands, but I wouldn't be pulling anything heavy with it, it just looks like something that's ready to snap off and come flying back at you.


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## Bill Hays

You'd think that at first glance and thought... but actually there's more pressure against the lower part of the fork, where it comes out from the handle, due to leverage... than on the thinner retention area. I need to do a video of a test I did one time, it's fairly enlightening.
So long as you're using decent wood, plywood or a laminate of some sort... you should be fine. Afterall it's been proven numerous times that so long as the wood is over 3/16" thick, it's thick enough... for example most of the PFSs are a little more than 1/8".


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## wombat

fair enough comment about the PFS's, but as a former fitter welder that's made quite a few different types of machinery, it just goes against the grain ( no pun intended).







Some things look right and some things just look wrong. I'd love to see the video, in the mean time I guess I'll use my face as a guinea pig, cuz I really do hate tying bands.


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## Devoman

Bill Hays said:


> You're more than welcome... you might think about a Yo model to utilize it with!


Hey Bill it is in the works, I just can't get in the shop until early May. It has been the longest wait in my life...lol.


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## Bill Hays

Wow... I think I'd go into "DT"s!


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## Beanflip

Do you guys think i could modify my maple recurve that has the TTF slots?


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## treefork

Beanflip said:


> Do you guys think i could modify my maple recurve that has the TTF slots?


Are the top of the forks smooth? Why no just make another slingshot and keep that one as is? You can't have to many.That's part of the fun here. The worst that can happen is you'll be accused of be a "Slingshot Hoarder". Don't worry your among friends who can relate.


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## Wingshooter

treefork said:


> Do you guys think i could modify my maple recurve that has the TTF slots?


Are the top of the forks smooth? Why no just make another slingshot and keep that one as is? You can't have to many.That's part of the fun here. The worst that can happen is you'll be accused of be a "Slingshot Hoarder". Don't worry your among friends who can relate.
[/quote]
Like the man says i think you need another dedicated top slot recure hunter


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## Beanflip

Yes, I wish i could.


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## Bajaja

Yesterday try it,
for pouchless bands it's realy perfect, but with classic bands with pouch i cannot centered the bands - the both sides were not exactly the same lenght. Awghrrrr!!!!
Maybe I'm clumsy, it will require more practice to me. But i will stay with this method for next slingshots.

Thanks for pics and video!!!


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## rockslinger

Reznik Krkovicka said:


> Yesterday try it,
> for pouchless bands it's realy perfect, but with classic bands with pouch i cannot centered the bands - the both sides were not exactly the same lenght. Awghrrrr!!!!
> Maybe I'm clumsy, it will require more practice to me. But i will stay with this method for next slingshots.
> 
> Thanks for pics and video!!!


Try putting bands into the slots first, then tie on your pouch.


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## Adirondack Kyle

Thanks for the tip bill. And the research guys, 
I love shooting ott, but the band slaps can be brutal!
I just hope this doesn't put extra stress on the latex.
Hopefully they will hold up. I like the idea of using a piece of small diameter tubing for extra measure.
the only tubes i have are tex lights, hope that will work


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## Susi

I wonder about chafing at the point of exit of the band from the slot in terms of band breakage at that point. Maybe best to round that part a bit and sand it very smooth? Or would that diminish the grip of the concept? It sure makes sence this attachment method for bands...make the slot according to band thickness of course, trial/error...and it raises the band a centimeter higher, reducing hand slap.


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## Bucky Webb

Has anyone tried this method but made the hole vertical for shooting TTF?


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## Wingshooter

Bucky Webb said:


> Has anyone tried this method but made the hole vertical for shooting TTF?


Check out CanOpener's slingshot


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## calinb

And here's my 3D-printed TTF example. A Boy Scout with slots!

I not sure that I agree with Bill Hays and his wife that slingshots with no-tie slots present increased liability vs. conventional slingshot designs for commercial slingshot manufacturers. Slots work so incredibly well! I think there are more ways to screw-up tied-on bands and still get thwacked in the face than when installing bands into slots--especially for the newbie.

Given that hand slap isn't an issue, I located the slot well forward of center in the fork prong. (I don't know how much space is required in front of the slot in an OTT slingshot, if reduced hand slap is the goal.) Leaving a good amount of fork material behind the slot maximized fork stiffness against the pull of the bands. The slingshot is printed in nylon, which is a strong 3D printing material (and it tends not to fail suddenly and catastrophically), but it is also somewhat flexible and I wanted to maximize stiffness. Eliminating the original tie holes in the Boy Scout fork prongs made the forks stiffer too.


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## Sharker

But how about double layered bands? Has anybody tried this way?


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## calinb

I plan to try them, but haven't yet. I'm sure others have and hopefully they will report here.

Regardless of single, doubled or even tripled bands. an optimum retention vs. insertion tightness range exists for any slot size. If the band(s) are too thick, you will not be able to get at least a couple layers worth of band in the roll and still insert them into the slots, but a wider slot should accommodate them in that case. With a wider slot, you'd need many rolls on thinner bands. I don't know if there is a downside to having to roll-up several thin layers to achieve good band retention. Certainly with ties, you can tie-on just about any bands--from the thinnest to thickest imaginable, including muti-band stackups.

But I'm a newbie to slingshots. Though I'm experimenting like crazy, practicing my shooting, and learning fast, I'm interested in hearing what other forum members with experience with this attachment method have to say.



Sharker said:


> But how about double layered bands? Has anybody tried this way?


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## Sharker

This is a promising answer, I myself am a builder, rather than the shooter. It would be nice to provide a convenient alternative.


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## calinb

I think this might be the best way to slot a TTF shooter:

This is a promising answer, I myself am a builder, rather than the shooter. It would be nice to provide a convenient alternative.

http://slingshotforum.com/gallery/image/23505-eiucalyptus2-side-1/


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## calinb

rockslinger said:


> Reznik Krkovicka said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yesterday try it,
> for pouchless bands it's realy perfect, but with classic bands with pouch i cannot centered the bands - the both sides were not exactly the same lenght. Awghrrrr!!!!
> Maybe I'm clumsy, it will require more practice to me. But i will stay with this method for next slingshots.
> 
> Thanks for pics and video!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Try putting bands into the slots first, then tie on your pouch.
Click to expand...

Old post but I'm still going to answer it:

Once you figure out how much to roll the band (as much as you can and still stretch it to get it into the slot), just roll it (tightly too) and mark the length right at the end of the roll with a ball point pen. Then unroll the band and match and mark the other band(s) at the same roll stopping point.


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## calinb

The topic of this thread is OTT slotted forks but I still think this is the best place to post this CAD screen shot of my 3D printed slotted Boy Scout (TTF) projects. The following TTF SSs are intended for OTT (outside the forks) band routing.

Orange is for rolled tubes as discussed in this thread. No additional band attachment or precautionary safety anchor hardware is required. It supports the widest bands (over 1.25" in the Boy Scout here). The slots are offset for improved strength against heavy band pull and the asymmetric slot configuration results in a non-ambidextrous SS.

Yellow is easier than Orange to use (just fold and stretch) but it warrants a match stick or other safety anchor stick in the loop formed by the fold. 1" wide bands maximum in the Boy Scout SS here. Again--non-ambidextrous.

Pink is also easier than Orange to use, but the bands must be slightly longer than the other two slot configurations. The bands must wrap from the fold loop and safety anchor dowel on the shooter side to the front face of the fork and around the outside of the fork. The extra band length required is approximately equal to the wrap length across one side of the fork. Not that I would forgo the installation of safety sticks / dowels in Yellow or Pink, but the Pink version should provide more security for the bands than Yellow, if the safety sticks were ever omitted. (The band is pulled across two 90 degree corners instead of only one.) Although the Pink slots are offset for improved strength against heavy band pull like Yellow, the Pink configuration is ambidextrous. 1" wide bands maximum here.


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## Chuck Daehler

Excellent! And you know why too. The ambidextrous (purple) seems to be the most universal and would put less breaking stress on the slot halves than the yellow image's version, and I like the purple inline slots best actually but you be dah printer so you decide. Great mod for Bill Hays' Boy Scout.

A wide slot made for thick bands or double bands will fit a thin or narrow band or single band. How?

Just cut off a 3/4 ir 1 inch piece of broken band and incorporate it into the fold of the thinner band or single band to increase the fold's width so it is snug in the slot. I call this shimming. Always use a "match stick" insert (can be a section of leather thong, paracord, trimmer line, the mid section of a round toothpick etc.)in the loop so as to prevent the bands from pulling out of the slot. I've shot many thousands of rounds using slots, single and double band and only once has a band set pulled out but I was lucky and it didn't hit my eye. Had it, likely I would be missing a cornea and that's for life. Always use an insert in the loop for any slot attachment to prevent it from coming out.

If a band breaks at the fork, same thing happens whether it's slotted or not. Moral of the story is, buy a couple bucks worth of eye protection for nothing is worth a blind eye or ripped out cornea (same thing).

Most slingshot makers firmly recommend eye protection...any worth their salt would.


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## calinb

After having offline discussions with you, Chuck, I'm planning to print a Boy Scout like the purple one here, but I'll center the slots. After talking to you, I think the bands' loops (either short loops folded just for retention or single pieces of band of 2x length that are doubled) can be anchored on the front face of the forks and routed straight back in the slots instead of outside the forks (OTF). It is the strongest fork configuration, wastes the least band material, 3D-prints very well (no printed overhangs) and it provides perhaps the easiest method of affixing bands to a SS!



Chuck Daehler said:


> <snip>
> 
> The ambidextrous (purple) seems to be the most universal and would put less breaking stress on the slot halves than the yellow image's version, and I like the purple inline slots best actually but you be dah printer so you decide. Great mod for Bill Hays' Boy Scout.
> 
> <snip>


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