# Tung oil vs. Boiled Linseed oil (blo)



## kwinpr (Sep 25, 2014)

This is not a question. I just wanted to share an interesting article that I read today because I thought it may help shed some light on the differences between the 2 finishing oils. I've used both finishes in the past, but my preference is tung oil because even though it is slow to cure it is a very forgiving finish to apply while producing a beautiful understated sheen with a great feel. Blo has a similar look, but seemed to yellow quickly and I like the thickness of pure tung oil. I also like the smell of tung oil (blo smells good too) as it's not offensive like some poly finishes.

Anyway, here's the link to the article. Oh and don't forget to put your used tung oil and blo rags in a container filled with water so they don't combust (google it).

https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/tung-oil-debunking-myths


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## DogBox (Aug 11, 2014)

Yeah! First time I read about the application rag instantaneous combusting I freaked! But apparently, MOST of these oils DO! Definitely something to watch out for!!!


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## Rayshot (Feb 1, 2010)

kwinpr said:


> This is not a question. I just wanted to share an interesting article that I read today because I thought it may help shed some light on the differences between the 2 finishing oils. I've used both finishes in the past, but my preference is tung oil because even though it is slow to cure it is a very forgiving finish to apply while producing a beautiful understated sheen with a great feel. Blo has a similar look, but seemed to yellow quickly and I like the thickness of pure tung oil. I also like the smell of tung oil (blo smells good too) as it's not offensive like some poly finishes.
> 
> Anyway, here's the link to the article. Oh and don't forget to put your used tung oil and blo rags in a container filled with water so they don't combust (google it).
> 
> https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/tung-oil-debunking-myths


Being in the flooring business and having used the oils on floors and having a fair amount of saturated to lightly saturated rags they will combust if piled up or bunched together in a trash can.

That being said I can also attest to the fact that they will not combust if laid out so as to not let heat build up, as it can when the rags are bunched up in one way or another. The water can is not to be dismissed but typically an extra water can that I have to have kicking around is just another item that has to be stored. Whereas the frequency in which I get a rag or two saturated with oil is infrequent and spreading them out over night (until oil is cured) is far less of a nuisance to me.

But do what you feel most confident in to not let them be a fire hazard.


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## kwinpr (Sep 25, 2014)

Rayshot said:


> kwinpr said:
> 
> 
> > This is not a question. I just wanted to share an interesting article that I read today because I thought it may help shed some light on the differences between the 2 finishing oils. I've used both finishes in the past, but my preference is tung oil because even though it is slow to cure it is a very forgiving finish to apply while producing a beautiful understated sheen with a great feel. Blo has a similar look, but seemed to yellow quickly and I like the thickness of pure tung oil. I also like the smell of tung oil (blo smells good too) as it's not offensive like some poly finishes.
> ...


Rayshot,

You're right - that method also works (for those with space) and I neglected to mention it. When I had a house with a garage I used to lay what little rags I had flat on the concrete floor in a single lay to dry/cure before disposing of them. Now I live in an apartment (with roommates) so I don't really have anywhere to let them dry, which is why I store my few used rags in either a glass or metal container filled with water. Thankfully, I have a friend that has some property where he frequently burns brush so he's able to take my rags (when my jar is full) and burn them.

Thanks for sharing you experiences!


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## jazz (May 15, 2012)

Hi kwinpr,

thanks for this link, it is very informative for me because I intend to buy some tung oil, and I never used it before.

cheers,

jazz


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## DogBox (Aug 11, 2014)

Yes! Very interesting Link! :thumbsup: Sorry if I led the post in the wrong direction... but good to learn from the experts we have here!

I am also looking into 'finishes', Tung Oil included. I also found something Genuinely American making a revival: Minwax. Its history is

very interesting but the products on offer are "right up our alley" as far as application and finish. How they compare is another Q.?

Do you have to keep re-coating once you apply an oil - whether BLO or Tung? to keep the finish looking good? :hmm:


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## DogBox (Aug 11, 2014)

Just found a mountain of reading material! Went back to the 'Newbie Forum' and typed "Finishes" in the search box..... THAT did the trick!


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## kwinpr (Sep 25, 2014)

DogBox said:


> Yes! Very interesting Link! :thumbsup: Sorry if I led the post in the wrong direction... but good to learn from the experts we have here!
> 
> I am also looking into 'finishes', Tung Oil included. I also found something Genuinely American making a revival: Minwax. Its history is
> 
> ...


You can keep the finish looking good for a while as long as you apply a coat of wax here and there, but yes eventually you will have to reapply the oil.


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## DogBox (Aug 11, 2014)

Amongst that 'mountain of info' was this little gem... [from what showed up when it ended, looks like more to be had!]


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## bslingin (Sep 28, 2014)

Being a house painter, I can say for real this is a real thing. I always have a water can for used rags, and have actually seen a rag with laquer thinner on it combust in the pocket of my old bosses coat. Haha, he was pissed, his own fault though LOL.


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## NaturalFork (Jan 21, 2010)

I have used tung oil in the past. I unfortunately do not have the patience for it.


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## DogBox (Aug 11, 2014)

...mmm? Patience for it..?? Why's that NaturalFork? It takes a long time to dry or to recoat? Isn't it worth it? Please tell...


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## kwinpr (Sep 25, 2014)

DogBox said:


> ...mmm? Patience for it..?? Why's that NaturalFork? It takes a long time to dry or to recoat? Isn't it worth it? Please tell...


It takes a long time to dry between coats would be my guess as to why NaturalFork does not have the patience for it. With pure tung oil it can take more than a day (sometimes a few days) to cure between coats depending upon the humidity and temperature of your environment. When I lived in Florida it would take 24 hours between coats during the winter and roughly 60ish hours during the peak of the summer humidity. Keep in mind I was doing my finishing in my outdoor garage. If you do you finishing in a climate controlled environment it's not that bad.


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## kwinpr (Sep 25, 2014)

If you don't want to wait so long you can use a oil/poly blend like Danish Oil or even the Minwax Tung Oil (it's and oil'poly blend).


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## DogBox (Aug 11, 2014)

kwinpr said:


> If you don't want to wait so long you can use a oil/poly blend like Danish Oil or even the Minwax Tung Oil (it's and oil'poly blend).


So, you are familiar with the 'Minwax' product and range? I have ordered [bought] some "wipe-on" and also a "Spar Urethane" brush on & a

can of Spray finish. Bound to settle on something! But I think different types also suit different applications - as if you are coating scales on

a metal core or finishing a Natural 'Y'...


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## kwinpr (Sep 25, 2014)

I've tried the Minwax "tung oil" (not pure it's an oil poly blend) and I've used their paste wax, but that's it. So I can't really comment on their other products. What I have used seems to work well.


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## DogBox (Aug 11, 2014)

A little bit more info into 'Finishes'... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spar_varnish

DB

Edit:

*Go toward the bottom where you will see 'Categories' and click-on 'Wood Finishing Materials' ... a bit hard to drag here!


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