# I Can't Sharpen Knives: A Cry For Help



## MikeyLikesIt (Oct 19, 2018)

It's confession time. Although I own multiple knives and use them frequently, I am hopeless at sharpening them. I've tried various methods, and even paid a guy to do it for me, but I feel it's a pretty basic skill that everyone should be able to do with a moderate degree of success. I use knives for chores, for work, for fun, for cooking. I should be able to figure this out!

I'm gonna break down what I have and what I know, and maybe some of you knife wizards can give me a friendly suggestion. I've checked on some other forums and read articles, but the information is either incredibly generic (sharpen your knife at a consistent angle) or way too specific for me to understand (If you're using #G7r12 steel and living in the Southern Hemisphere you need to be sharpening with a whale bone at 12 degree angles...).

So I get the basics of knife sharpening. By consistently removing material from either side of the blade at a set angle you can acquire a sharper edge. And I assume the edge/angle put on the knife is correct, so I'm just looking to sharpen up what already exists. My issue seems to be finding and keeping the correct angle while sharpening.

I started out with a basic knife sharpener from AccuSharp (green and orange image). I've used these before at a restaurant and they work fine, but the angle of the sharpener is often different than the edge geometry of my knife. Sometimes it's close, other times it's not...

So question 1: Is this type of sharpener okay for most knives? Do you just keep swiping away till you've destroyed the old edge angle and established the new one that fits the sharpener?

Next, I've experimented with a whetstone. I have a three sided one from harbor freight (see image 2) with different grits for stainless steel, carbon steel, etc. My dad showed me how to use these as a kid, but I always seem to have trouble finding the proper angle for the knife and then maintaining it. I've tried with a couple knives where I spend a good amount of time carefully honing both sides of the blade only to realize I've been off by a fraction and made the thing duller than when I started.

Question 2: Is the whetstone the type of tool you keep practicing with until you become proficient? ie - is this a skill tool that just requires hours of abusing knives till you've mastered it's potential?

Finally, I've been eyeballing these little wedges you can affix to your whetstone with rubber (See image 3). You pick the one that matches the angle of your blade's edge, and utilize it to make sure you're getting consistent swipes each time. I feel like these might be a good option but haven't seen many reviews on them.

Question 3: Has anyone tried these wedges before and how well did you think they worked?

I'm limited in funds so I'd like to make one of these solutions work. I've seen really fancy electric sharpeners that allow you to dial in the correct angle then sharpen the blade with a motor, but I don't think I can justify a purchase of that level for my cheap knife collection. Any help or tips you all can offer would be greatly appreciated!


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## Blade (Jun 5, 2014)

The carbide scraper will never get it as sharp as you want it. The trihone is perfect, it's what I started with. Alas there really isn't more to it than keeping a consistent angle and time.
But doing one side first may help you keep your angle and see results faster. With the coarsest stone, pick your angle and go back and forth without taking the knife off the stone unless you're checking it. Go until you raise a burr along the edge. You'll know you raised the burr when you drag your fingers/fingernails across the edge and you feel it on the opposite side from what you're sharpening. Now you can switch sides to remove that burr. Chase that burr back and forth until it's not noticable and your knife will be sharp. You can refine it with strokes on alternating sides after that with the finer stones


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## Ibojoe (Mar 13, 2016)

Sound advice. There's lots of videos on the subject and it's a learned thing so it takes a while to learn. Once you get a good technique it's just a matter of time.
Watch out for all the aids out there. That tri-hone is all you need. 
Enjoy your journey my friend.


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## Wiconsinconcepts (Oct 5, 2019)

Hey Mikey, I had the same deal going on for a long while. I just couldn't get it. I have that same three sided stone. I thought it was garbage until I got it down. Granted, I'm still just ok and not the greatest. But there's a YouTuber that I watch who's tips I believe in. Maybe someone else has better recommendations, but I've dramatically improved from OUTDOOR55's videos and tips on sharpening and honing with a strap.

Here's a link. I hope it works. Otherwise just look up OUTDOOR55 and sharpening tips. He has a couple good videos.

https://youtu.be/-8WxarmQmIY' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>


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## Ordo (Feb 11, 2018)

As a devoted home cook I have a knife collection and sharpen my own knives since many years ago. I only use whetstones. Never used devices like AccuSharp because they usually eat and destroy the edges. Sharpening with whetstones is not that complicated really, if you get proper stones. I use: Shapton Glass Stones:#320 and #1000 and several Chocera SS stones, Bester, etc. A collection of stones indeed, but you can stick to the Glass Stones. I don't use 3 stones jigs. I believe the quality of dedicated stones is much better and stable. Stability of the stone over the counter top is important to get consistent angles. Something I learned through experience is that when you use many stones, like going from #320-550-1000-5000-15.000, etc. you will probably modify the angles and you will end up with a mediocre edge. So nowdays I use just the #320 (to remake horrible bevels) and #1000 Glassstone. That's enough for my cooking. Here's a good channel to see and learn:

Sharpening techniques





Myths of knife sharpening





If you're in doubt about really touching the edge, check the marker sharpie trick:





Good luck and keep those angles constant!


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## MikeyLikesIt (Oct 19, 2018)

Alright! Great tips all around guys. So it does seem that it's just a skill that requires some practice and finesse. That is sad, in that some of my knives will suffer from my clumsy attempts, but a good thing in that it's something that won't require fancy equipment and should serve me well throughout my life.

A couple quick questions about stones:

#1 - am I supposed to put water on the tri-stone jig I have? Or do I use it dry?

#2 - My tri-stone block has three different stones and the instructions say they are for 3 different metals. Do I sharpen my carbon steel knife on just the one side, or is it recommended to start with a rougher grit stone and progress your way up to the finer grit to finish up an edge?

Thanks for all the feedback. I may still get the wedges to help me establish the correct angles and stay consistent, but I'll keep at it till I'm splitting paper and shaving hairs! I've got a couple carbon knives that I'd love to bring to their full potential...


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## urbanshooter (Aug 23, 2017)

If you pick up one of those knife sharpening systems with adjustable angles, you'll get the quickest, most consistent results. If not, then investing in a good set of stones will be the way to go. It takes time to build up a sharpening stone collection.

I do prefer free hand sharpening because every knife is different and I want to be able to feel out each edge and tailor the edge profile I want. Just do some research and watch the many Youtube videos on sharpening. You'll get it very quickly. The tricky part is always the belly and tip of the knife where you need to lift up just enough to follow the curve.

Whatever you use or do, to get a sharp edge, you MUST "apex". And to apex, you need to create a consistent burr on the side you are not sharpening. The burr lets you know that you are grinding to an apex and pushing material over to the other side. If you don't get burr, you are not apexing. Once the burr feels consistent along the entire edge, it means you have properly worked through the entire edge. At that point you would turn over and repeat and work through the stone grits to a point you are satisfied. All the good sharpening videos will tell you this and that's the one tip you must take to heart 

For dull knives you need to start with a low grit stone like a 600 or 800. Then move on to a 1,000 and depending how far you want to take the edge you can keep going on finer grits. Generally though, the edge is polished at 6,000 and will easily push cut. Push cut means just that, if you push the edge against a sheet of paper it will cut. This is contrasted with a sheer cut where it will cut only if you draw the knife across in a slicing motion. If your knife won't even sheer cut then your edge is dull.

If your knives are maintained often, a 1,000 stone would be the go to. There are little tricks like pull across end strokes on each grit to remove wire edges but that's getting into refined sharpening. Basically, if you remember nothing else, just remember to burr and deburr. If you can do that you will have a good enough edge. Burr and deburr! Burr and deburr!!

For stones, note that there are oil stones and waterstones and they are not interchangeable or they might be ruined. The method of using oil stones is with a honing motion, meaning you sharpen on the push stroke and relax on the pull and with waterstones, it's the reverse - applying pressure and sharpening only on a pull stroke.

If you are sharpening camp knives and utility knives, just get an Arkansas stone. something from Smiths is good enough. These are oil stones and usually come with some honing oil.

Diamond coated steel plates are also superb but you need to know how to use them as they are very aggressive at removing steel and are great for fixing messed up edges. If your knives aren't precious then using diamond plates is the quickest sharpening. Every sharpening takes away steel and some of your knife's life. But it does take ages to wear through a knife.

If you can sharpen your knives on a stone, then you should also get or make yourself a leather strop. Stropping really does take the edge to the next level and just stropping alone is usually enough to maintain an edge or at least stretch out sharpening intervals.

I hate those wedges or guides as they very quickly become more of a hindrance rather than an aid...

If you are not sure if you are getting on the edge, one trick is the Sharpee mark just the very edge and remove the marking on the stone to sharpen.

I love knives, especially Japanese knives. Here is one of my knives illustrating sharpness...


__
http://instagr.am/p/BOtnyJRB5qe/

PM me anytime if you need any guidance... or look for someone here who might be a chef coz all chefs know how to sharpen their knives...or at least they should!

And welcome to the rabbit hole of knife sharpening


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## chuck sitas (Sep 9, 2019)

There is quite a difference in steel quality. A quality knife will sharpen way easier than cheap stainless steel, and hold it's edge way longer. I keep a small cheap washer deal made by RADA on the counter.It's as effective as a good quality steel for touch up. A quality diamond steel is worth owning in my book. You could put a good edge on a grader blade if you have to.I would like to add, sharp is one thing. Razor sharp is another story. You need a strop to do the job perfect. I've sharpend knives, clevers ,axes. chisles. Just takes time and a good eye, which my age is taking from me.


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## SJAaz (Apr 30, 2019)

Mike..

The advice from the previous posts is all you need. Find a stable flat surface at a comfortable working hight. Sit down relax follow advice above.

A couple more thoughts that might help. Cheap lower quality blades have a lower carbon content, are softer and are easier to sharpen. I grew up in a slaughter house, that is all we used, all we could afford. We used a steel to stand the edge back up on them. When stainless came out, we didn't like them because we couldn't get them sharp on our cheap stones, They were to hard. You didn't learn to hold a slingshot in a consistent manner overnight and you won't learn to hold a blade at a consistent angle either. Practice young man! Start with cheapos and work up to the harder steel after you get the idea. I was impressed with the advice given above, follow it. Be patient, you aren't launching a rocket into space, you just putting a consistent bevel on a piece of steel.


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## MakoPat (Mar 12, 2018)

No time for a complete reply...but please, be aware that all pull-through sharpeners have high likelihood of off damaging your knife at some time...they put these kind of waves or ripple on the secondary bevel that leads to chips or worse...and the edge is never really sharpened.

My vote is to pay someone to sharpen them while you devote some time to learn how.

I use the cheese grater like diamond plates, a bit of oiled leather...sometimes a very fine stone to touch up the edge.


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## MikeyLikesIt (Oct 19, 2018)

Thanks for all the advice guys! I sat down for an hour and worked on a butcher knife I picked up a while back. While the thing isn't razor sharp, it certainly has a better edge than when purchased. I tried the sharpie method and it really helped me see how my angle was too steep/too shallow. I put some water on the stone occasionally and worked one side till I had a nice even burr, then switched to the other and cleaned it up. I just made a sheath for it too, so hopefully it'll stay a little sharper than banging around in my kitchen drawer.

I do have a couple other questions: The sharpening stone I got is a cheap one from Harbor Freight Tools. It has 3 sides, 120 grit aluminum oxide for carbon steel, 240 grit aluminum oxide for stainless steel, and 150 grit silicon carbide for hard carbide blades. I used the 120 grit since my blade is carbon steel. It sounds like some of you all are recommending starting out on a 300-600 grit and working you're way up to get a better edge. Is there a preferred grit level with which to start? I can probably ask for a decent whetstone for Christmas, but I'm not sure what brand or grit would be preferable. Any recommendations would be great!


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## Ordo (Feb 11, 2018)

Your 3 stone kit is way too coarse. Better get a couple stones: one in the 300-500 grit range and a 1000. That's enough. There're many fine brands (Chosera, Naniwa, Shapton, Norton, King...) but here's a good deal:

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Suehiro-Cerax-Single-Grit-Stone-P1639C4.aspx

When you a want to try a leather strop loaded with chromium oxide, tell us and we can guide you building it.


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## SJAaz (Apr 30, 2019)

MikeyLikesIt said:


> Thanks for all the advice guys! I sat down for an hour and worked on a butcher knife I picked up a while back. While the thing isn't razor sharp, it certainly has a better edge than when purchased. I tried the sharpie method and it really helped me see how my angle was too steep/too shallow. I put some water on the stone occasionally and worked one side till I had a nice even burr, then switched to the other and cleaned it up. I just made a sheath for it too, so hopefully it'll stay a little sharper than banging around in my kitchen drawer.
> 
> I do have a couple other questions: The sharpening stone I got is a cheap one from Harbor Freight Tools. It has 3 sides, 120 grit aluminum oxide for carbon steel, 240 grit aluminum oxide for stainless steel, and 150 grit silicon carbide for hard carbide blades. I used the 120 grit since my blade is carbon steel. It sounds like some of you all are recommending starting out on a 300-600 grit and working you're way up to get a better edge. Is there a preferred grit level with which to start? I can probably ask for a decent whetstone for Christmas, but I'm not sure what brand or grit would be preferable. Any recommendations would be great!


Hey that is an "old Hickery" you got there> Don't sell it short, I still have two or three. Put a good edge on it, Keep it out of the dirt, stand the edge back up when it stops cutting, you could skin a bull moose with it. Make a steel. Take a rat tailed file grind the teeth off, run it back and forth length wise over an old sandstone brick or something. You want the scratches to run the length of it. Run your knife over it LIGHTLY I said LIGHTLY at the same angle you sharpened it at. Remember, you are just straightening that microscopic edge which you honed on there. Oh, and if you do skin a moose, stay away from the teeth. You hit a tooth, and you might as well go back to the hones.


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## urbanshooter (Aug 23, 2017)

MikeyLikesIt said:


> Thanks for all the advice guys! I sat down for an hour and worked on a butcher knife I picked up a while back. While the thing isn't razor sharp, it certainly has a better edge than when purchased. I tried the sharpie method and it really helped me see how my angle was too steep/too shallow. I put some water on the stone occasionally and worked one side till I had a nice even burr, then switched to the other and cleaned it up. I just made a sheath for it too, so hopefully it'll stay a little sharper than banging around in my kitchen drawer.
> 
> I do have a couple other questions: The sharpening stone I got is a cheap one from Harbor Freight Tools. It has 3 sides, 120 grit aluminum oxide for carbon steel, 240 grit aluminum oxide for stainless steel, and 150 grit silicon carbide for hard carbide blades. I used the 120 grit since my blade is carbon steel. It sounds like some of you all are recommending starting out on a 300-600 grit and working you're way up to get a better edge. Is there a preferred grit level with which to start? I can probably ask for a decent whetstone for Christmas, but I'm not sure what brand or grit would be preferable. Any recommendations would be great!


If you are only gonna have only one stone then I would say you need 1000 grit because that can work out dull edges though it might take a bit more elbow grease and it is still fine enough for daily use.1000 produces a toothy edge that is great for shear cutting. I would then get a 600 as that is rough enough to fix most knife problems. With those two you would have all you need for regular serviceable usage. So, you might want to invest in a 600/1000 combination stone for the best of both worlds and that would set you up for a good while. They are quite common and can usually be found at the kitchen knives area of a good retailer.

Sharpening is a mechanical process of holding an angle and grinding down steel to an apex. So the better you can maintain a consistent angle throughout the entire edge the better a result you will get. Expert sharpeners will also always maintain a knife's edge profile and become sticklers about not altering a blade's profile unintentionally. If you do it right you will find a clean consistent grind appearing as a shiny line along your edge. Just be aware of your blade's profile and try not to alter it by grinding too much in one area (overgrinding usually occurs at the centre) or loosing the point.

If you want to go for more refinement, you can collect finer stone grits. You got some great Japanese stone recommendations above but those can be pricy.

Also all knife edges deform with use. It's microscopic but enough to affect performance. That's why some people use a knife steel to realign the edge between uses. Stropping also helps to realign edges... Enjoy your sharp knives!


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## ghost0311/8541 (Jan 6, 2013)

Get a spiderco knife sharpener and you won't have a problem unless your knife is junk steel.


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## MikeyLikesIt (Oct 19, 2018)

urbanshooter said:


> MikeyLikesIt said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for all the advice guys! I sat down for an hour and worked on a butcher knife I picked up a while back. While the thing isn't razor sharp, it certainly has a better edge than when purchased. I tried the sharpie method and it really helped me see how my angle was too steep/too shallow. I put some water on the stone occasionally and worked one side till I had a nice even burr, then switched to the other and cleaned it up. I just made a sheath for it too, so hopefully it'll stay a little sharper than banging around in my kitchen drawer.
> ...


Thanks! After I posted my final question I went back and read some answers again and realized you had already given a recommendation. Sometimes all the answers start to swim together...


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## MikeyLikesIt (Oct 19, 2018)

Thanks for the feedback. I'll definitely see about picking up a decent stone or two here in the near future and let you know how it goes!


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## urbanshooter (Aug 23, 2017)

One other tip that could help is to position the knife and stone at about chest level and no lower than your waist when sharpening. Ideally, the level should be just a little higher than where your elbows drop down to. This helps us to maintain the angle as we would be using our arms to move in the right way, to push and pull on a more consistent angle. If we position the knife too low, we would unconsciously have a scooping motion. If you find yourself scooping then try to raise the the stone a little. Something about our body mechanics and the way our joints are hinged. It's not that it can't be done down low but it just takes a lot more effort and attention. Hope this helps!

Sharpening can be quite gratifying... enjoy


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## bigdh2000 (Feb 9, 2015)

A lot of good advice here. It takes practice. Following the pointers will get you there a little faster, but, like anything, practice.

I strictly use Japanese wet stones with water. One thing you need to be mindful of...these stones wear down and eventually have a trough in them. Use both sides until the trough becomes too difficult to work with and then buy a replacement stone.


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## urbanshooter (Aug 23, 2017)

bigdh2000 said:


> A lot of good advice here. It takes practice. Following the pointers will get you there a little faster, but, like anything, practice.
> 
> I strictly use Japanese wet stones with water. One thing you need to be mindful of...these stones wear down and eventually have a trough in them. Use both sides until the trough becomes too difficult to work with and then buy a replacement stone.


Yeah... they do!!! They have to be flattened to prolong their usabilility... I have to regularly use a flattening stone on my waterstones to quickly get them all level again... They do eventually get to a point where they are so thin they need to be tossed but that's a really really long time...


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## THWACK! (Nov 25, 2010)

For centuries, the Chinese would use the bottom of "China" (say it isn't so) - plates and cups - to sharpen their knives and cleavers. The bottoms of their plates and cups act like abrasive on a knife edge. As long as you maintain the proper angle for the particular knife you are sharpening, you'll be okay. Run a thick line of black felt-tip marker along the two edges, so that you can see where you are and aren't "sharpening". That'll help to keep the angle correct.

BTW - after a knife is sharp, don't sharpen it over and over again - it probably just needs a bit of honing on a "strop", which is a knife's best friend.

DO NOT throw your knives into the kitchen "junk drawer" , or let them collide with other utensils or objects (Llamas, flagpoles, roller skates, etc.), or you'll forever be sharpening them.

STAY AWAY from carbide "sharpeners" - they ruin blades.

I use a "DMT Duo Sharp" diamond stone set #WM8EF-WB (has two grits, 600 and 1200, like John Wayne), and a strop with "Fromm Strop Dressing" applied. That's ALL I ever need. You should be stropping a heck of a lot more than sharpening, once a blade is sharp.

...and wash them by hands, not the machine!

Enjoy!

THWACK!


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## THWACK! (Nov 25, 2010)

I re-read your post and noticed that you referred to your collection as "cheap" knives.

Be aware that knives made of poor steel will neither sharpen or hold their sharpness well.

Also, you'll be spending a lot more time trying to sharpen stainless steel than high-quality carbon steel knives.

So, if you're frustrated, a good part of it may be the lack of quality of the knives in your collection.

I've a dozen "Mora" (brand) knives - NEVER needed to sharpen any one of them, whether my stainless steel fishing knives, my woodcarving knife, utility knives or bushcrafting knives. Strop, yes, if necessary, but never a need to "sharpen".

My kitchen knives are from Victorinox and Forschner - they get stropped - that's it!

So basically, one gets what one pays for. Joy for quality, frustration for otherwise.

Enjoy!

THWACK!

PS - the only time I need to use my DMT Duo Sharp system of diamond stones is when my girlfriend gets careless with my knives. Shame on her.


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## SLING-N-SHOT (Jun 5, 2018)

Wiconsinconcepts said:


> Hey Mikey, I had the same deal going on for a long while. I just couldn't get it. I have that same three sided stone. I thought it was garbage until I got it down. Granted, I'm still just ok and not the greatest. But there's a YouTuber that I watch who's tips I believe in. Maybe someone else has better recommendations, but I've dramatically improved from OUTDOOR55's videos and tips on sharpening and honing with a strap.
> 
> Here's a link. I hope it works. Otherwise just look up OUTDOOR55 and sharpening tips. He has a couple good videos.
> 
> https://youtu.be/-8WxarmQmIY' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>


I second this recommendation, Outdoor55 is good info....it just takes practice holding a consistent angle, going up in grit, and at the end, a good stropping using a flat piece of leather loaded with Jewelers rouge. 
Sharpen pushing the blade away from you, and strop pulling the blade towards you, so you don't cut your leather.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SLING-N-SHOT (Jun 5, 2018)

urbanshooter said:


> bigdh2000 said:
> 
> 
> > A lot of good advice here. It takes practice. Following the pointers will get you there a little faster, but, like anything, practice.
> ...


Was gonna mention the flattening plates for keeping the wet stones flat as well . 

I bought a Wicked Edge Prof. Sharpen system years ago, and it's fantastic.....until you have to replace a worn out diamond or ceramic paddle, expensive

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## SJAaz (Apr 30, 2019)

I don't want to take up any more of this thread sooo.... I have some "old timey" fire hose made of natural fibers, before they changed to man made stuff in public buildings. Any one interested in how I use it can ask. PM or maybe another thread. Sorry about jumping into your thread Mike.


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## Cjw (Nov 1, 2012)

I use the Spiderco triangle sharpener. Really easy to use.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## MikeyLikesIt (Oct 19, 2018)

THWACK! said:


> I re-read your post and noticed that you referred to your collection as "cheap" knives.
> 
> Be aware that knives made of poor steel will neither sharpen or hold their sharpness well.
> 
> ...


Hmm. Some are cheap for sure, but others are quality on the 'low end' of the pricing spectrum. My EDC is a Swiss Army knife I picked up at a flea market. I have an opinel folder, a couple cold steel knives and Spyderco folder. It sounds like several of them just need to be stropped to get them back into cutting form. Other knives aren't so lucky, including one I accidentally chipped on a wire and one my wife used as a screw driver...

Other knives aren't so great, or come rather dull from the manufacturer. The Old Hickory butcher knife is a great example. Good quality steel, but rather dull. Didn't draw cut very well, and certainly not living up to it's potential.


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## MikeyLikesIt (Oct 19, 2018)

SJAaz said:


> I don't want to take up any more of this thread sooo.... I have some "old timey" fire hose made of natural fibers, before they changed to man made stuff in public buildings. Any one interested in how I use it can ask. PM or maybe another thread. Sorry about jumping into your thread Mike.


Jump away! I think the threads get more interesting the farther down rabbit holes they go.


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## SJAaz (Apr 30, 2019)

MikeyLikesIt said:


> SJAaz said:
> 
> 
> > I don't want to take up any more of this thread sooo.... I have some "old timey" fire hose made of natural fibers, before they changed to man made stuff in public buildings. Any one interested in how I use it can ask. PM or maybe another thread. Sorry about jumping into your thread Mike.
> ...


Okay Mike...

The trouble with a strop is folks use them, but they sag in the middle as you draw the edge backwards down the length. Instead of an edge that looks like this V, you get an edge like this () sort of. The fix is to put the strop on a board or some such.

If you find a piece of old fire hose, cut a board the right size to slide the hose over it (I knock the corners off the board). Next time your in Home Depot or Lowes, pick up a stick of green buffing compound. apply to new strop, draw edge along this many times after you hone the wire edge on you blade. I have enough hose to send you a bit if you are serious about making above mentioned.


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## MikeyLikesIt (Oct 19, 2018)

SJAaz said:


> MikeyLikesIt said:
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> 
> > SJAaz said:
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Hmm. I definitely get the concept, and the need for prevent sagging makes sense. I'm currently juggling the last month of nursing school, a new niece, trying to squeeze in a hunting trip and picking up more shifts at work. I'll pass on the equipment right now, but I really appreciate the offer! I'm just afraid it'll sit on a workbench all Winter while I try to keep up with my other tasks. If I decide to make one I'll definitely give you a shout, even if just for tips and guidance.

Side note: I just skinned my first two squirrels yesterday and it was quite the learning experience. I thought about your family past as butchers and wished I had taken some classes or something. The squirrels got skinned, but it looks like they died in a Viking raid rather than by a shotgun!


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## SJAaz (Apr 30, 2019)

MikeyLikesIt said:


> SJAaz said:
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> > MikeyLikesIt said:
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Laugh, laugh laugh! Ah man...Viking raid! First time I skinned a hog, (we couldn't get the boiler working),, The old man said "looks like a GD beaver chewed it to death".. Life is great aint it?


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## SLING-N-SHOT (Jun 5, 2018)

MikeyLikesIt said:


> SJAaz said:
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> 
> > MikeyLikesIt said:
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Mikey,as Steve said, put your leather strop onto a wooden board that is stable. 
If you can find an old leather weightlifting belt, maybe at a Play It Again Sports store, they make fantastic strops, and if you keep the buckle intact, it gives you a great way to hang it up. Here's the one I built using the belt, a pine 1x6, and some rubber contact cement 






























Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## raventree78 (Apr 20, 2016)

One trick I used when I was starting out was to put a couple coins on the stone to use to set my angle, just stack a couple on the starting side. It is cheap and works good enough till you get the feel for it and can hold the angle. I think sharpening by hand is one of those things you have to do over and over till you get the muscle memory down. Like has been said before you want it really sharp you will need a strop and OUTDOOR55 shows how to make a good one.


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## raventree78 (Apr 20, 2016)

SLING-N-SHOT said:


> MikeyLikesIt said:
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> > SJAaz said:
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Awesome idea with the lift belt


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## SLING-N-SHOT (Jun 5, 2018)

raventree78 said:


> SLING-N-SHOT said:
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> > MikeyLikesIt said:
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Thanks raventree78.....it works great, for large and small knives, and plus, it didn't fit around my waist anymore, so this is a much better use for it that just sitting around. I will prob NEVER wear this thing out, good quality leather in those weight lifting belts.


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## SJAaz (Apr 30, 2019)

SLING-N-SHOT said:


> MikeyLikesIt said:
> 
> 
> > SJAaz said:
> ...


Now guys, That is how it's done!


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## Grandpa Pete (May 2, 2013)

I am recovering from having knee replacement surgery so I haven't been looking at the forum recently. As an old guy who has tried just about every form of knife sharpening system I found all of the above discussion very interesting. 50 years ago I had a fine soft Arkansas water stone which I got from my dad. After using a two sided carborundum stone to do the rough work I would go to the Arkansas stone and my lives were razor sharp. I loved that stone but, one day I dropped it on a cement floor and broke it. 

Not sure if anyone suggested this but, get yourself a 10X or more magnifying ring.......taking a close up view of knife edge will give you a world of information on what you need to do to get a razor edge.

GP


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## MikeyLikesIt (Oct 19, 2018)

Grandpa Pete said:


> I am recovering from having knee replacement surgery so I haven't been looking at the forum recently. As an old guy who has tried just about every form of knife sharpening system I found all of the above discussion very interesting. 50 years ago I had a fine soft Arkansas water stone which I got from my dad. After using a two sided carborundum stone to do the rough work I would go to the Arkansas stone and my lives were razor sharp. I loved that stone but, one day I dropped it on a cement floor and broke it.
> 
> Not sure if anyone suggested this but, get yourself a 10X or more magnifying ring.......taking a close up view of knife edge will give you a world of information on what you need to do to get a razor edge.


Thanks for the tip! I hope that knee heals up quickly for you too. I've had multiple family members get them done, and I may be looking at the same thing in 20-30 years. I hear once you get through the physical therapy and it's all healed up it's a game changer.


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## SJAaz (Apr 30, 2019)

MikeyLikesIt said:


> Grandpa Pete said:
> 
> 
> > I am recovering from having knee replacement surgery so I haven't been looking at the forum recently. As an old guy who has tried just about every form of knife sharpening system I found all of the above discussion very interesting. 50 years ago I had a fine soft Arkansas water stone which I got from my dad. After using a two sided carborundum stone to do the rough work I would go to the Arkansas stone and my lives were razor sharp. I loved that stone but, one day I dropped it on a cement floor and broke it.
> ...


GP you old rascal! Get well soon. Can't have the only guy here older than me going lame on us Or they'll start calling you Grampa Gimpy! :wave:


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## bigdh2000 (Feb 9, 2015)

I just realize I only gave a partial answer. My answer above was for big, fixed blades. For most of my pocket knives I just use this:

https://lansky.com/index.php/products/dlx-5-stone-system/


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## MikeyLikesIt (Oct 19, 2018)

bigdh2000 said:


> I just realize I only gave a partial answer. My answer above was for big, fixed blades. For most of my pocket knives I just use this:
> 
> https://lansky.com/index.php/products/dlx-5-stone-system/


Whoah! I've got a birthday and Christmas coming up, so some of this stuff may find it's way to me soon! Thanks for the recommendation.


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## Slingshot Seb (Jan 9, 2020)

MikeyLikesIt said:


> It's confession time. Although I own multiple knives and use them frequently, I am hopeless at sharpening them. I've tried various methods, and even paid a guy to do it for me, but I feel it's a pretty basic skill that everyone should be able to do with a moderate degree of success. I use knives for chores, for work, for fun, for cooking. I should be able to figure this out!
> 
> I'm gonna break down what I have and what I know, and maybe some of you knife wizards can give me a friendly suggestion. I've checked on some other forums and read articles, but the information is either incredibly generic (sharpen your knife at a consistent angle) or way too specific for me to understand (If you're using #G7r12 steel and living in the Southern Hemisphere you need to be sharpening with a whale bone at 12 degree angles...).
> 
> ...


This is what works for me to get my knives razor sharp. I use an oil stone, working up in grit obviously. After sharpening it in a high grit, u get a bit of leather stuck to a board, I think it's called a strop I'm not sure. Anyway press down firmly with the edge being at the back and run it down the leather. Basically don't go in the direction where u risk cutting the leather. U do 50 strokes on each side and that should get it razor sharp. Also remember to hold the same angle with every stroke as that is very important


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## juliashawn33 (May 19, 2021)

Alright! Great tips all around guys 
https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/


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## Trap1 (Apr 12, 2020)

A' think that the whole edge sharpening 'hing goes beyond what in realistic terms should boil doon tae "how sharp do A' want/need this edge tae be?" (Does the knife use need the edge tae be able tae shave curls on a single human hair? How much d'ye want tae spend on sharpening equipment?)

My wife's idea o' sharp is really blunt tae me but when a' tell her that blunt knives are the main cause of accidents, does she listen? Ye should see her prepare a turnip! Scary!

A' sharpen awe sorts o' edges: knives, lathe/milling tools, drills, chisels etc. & have done fae a very early age. Edge maintenance is a big thing, knowin' when tae sharpen is important... leave it too late & it becomes a major correction. Major corrections need different approaches/skills.

There is a lot o guid advice above & depending your levels o dexterity, touch & needs you'll choose what works best for you...pick a method & practice yer technique.

A' can only add that A' keep it real simple these days & rarely use stanes, maist o' my edge profiling work is done on a cheap 1" x 30" belt sander using trizact belts, & some hard leather strops with diamond pastes. My ain knives rarely go near the sander as stropping frequently in, & after, use keeps the edges healthy (& ma wife disnae wont touch thame!)


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## K Williams (Dec 9, 2015)

Get a Spyderco Sharpmaker, KME sharpening system, or Edge Pro Apex sharpening system.


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