# Installing Fork Tips



## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

I want to install contrasting fork tips on one of the nice Tulip forks given to me by Harpersgrace. Not being a man of many tools, however, I am having a bit of trouble mating the tips at this point.

My biggest initial problem was how to clamp the tips. Then I came up with the idea of epoxying in threaded rod for the pins, then epoxying the forks onto the rod & tips and clamping them down with a wingnut & washer, as pictured.









But now I have a new challenge. Since I only have a hand drill, I could only drill down into the forks by eye, and of course the hole isn't 100% perpendicular to the fork tip so that the pieces aren't exactly flush (luckily one tip is perfect, though). Any suggestions as to how to get them flush without screwing things up?


















The tip on the left is not flush.


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## harpersgrace (Jan 28, 2010)

Fraid I can't help you, but hope you enjoy the tulip wood....


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## ZDP-189 (Mar 14, 2010)

Simple: Glue then drill.

Complicated: V-Clamp on a drill press table set at 90 degrees.


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## ZDP-189 (Mar 14, 2010)

Also, use a vulcan fibre spacer. That hides problems with getting it flush.


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## AJW (Apr 24, 2011)

Glue then Drill .... so simple (most) everyone (me) missed it. Simple and effective.

Al


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

Thanks fellas, but it's the glue then drill part that I'm worried about. Maybe I'm being thick, but there will be a clamping problem if I don't glue in the posts first, right?

In any case, the posts are epoxyed in already on this one. Dan, I might go with the fibre spacers but I don't know if this one tip is worth it?


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## ZDP-189 (Mar 14, 2010)

Regarding the glue then pin method, it's not a new idea. This was the technique we used when making knives. If you glue one by one with epoxy, it will not be an issue. You can use quick set epoxy because the tension will be taken up later by the allthread.

Regarding the rescue of this particular fork, you might rescue it by cutting a groove around both the joins and fill with dyed epoxy. The rings will be of equal spacing and in any case, the wider band makes it harder to see if anything is a little out.


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

Thanks, Dan. I have already made a more crude adjustment on this one. I will just consider this one a learning experience. Thanks for your help. I still have another Tulip fork and some Black Cherry. What you suggested just now will be the way I will go.


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## Blue Danube (Sep 24, 2011)

If you groove the bottom of the caps, top of forks for banding the problem "vanishes"...


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

What about the strength of the bond, though? Doesn't there have to be a dead fit?


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## harpersgrace (Jan 28, 2010)

DH, you'll probably feel better with the next one. It'll be all you from start to finish, instead of picking up where I left off Just remember the other one was completely green, just as I cut it from the branch.


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## ZDP-189 (Mar 14, 2010)

Dayhiker said:


> What about the strength of the bond, though? Doesn't there have to be a dead fit?


Not if it is glue filled and backed up with allthread in epoxy.


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## Blue Danube (Sep 24, 2011)

Yeppers the load is BELOW the tip on main body with your combined components tis but a blemish easily hidden...


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## harpersgrace (Jan 28, 2010)

DH, how did it turn out??


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

Hi Scott,
The tips came out fairly well. I just glued on a butt cap last night and today I will be finishing the slingshot. I think it will be a fair to middling piece. I'm learning, thouth, ha ha!


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## harpersgrace (Jan 28, 2010)

looking forward to seeing it, what do you think of the tulip wood so far??


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## Blue Danube (Sep 24, 2011)

DayHiker, 
is it done yet? 
Is it done yet? Lol

I am REALLY looking forward to seeing the finished product.


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

It is done and I will post it when the sun comes up today.


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