# Logs To Lumber, Advice Needed



## Sean (Nov 17, 2011)

Always trying to find a new angle to this wonderful hobby, and seeing a few of you guys who have tried this, I decided to
go out for a drive this morning a few km up the road from my place, to see if I could find some small logs/stumps in which
to harvest some lumber for board cut slingshots.

Here are a few pictures of an area I remember travelling through late last winter and seeing the boys with big machinery
going at it harvesting a lot of timber. Now, it's abandoned and left for cleanup and eventually replanting.

I was wondering, and keep in mind I have no experience doing this kind of thing, but have a few questions, and open to
any and all advice I can get to make this successful if at all possible.

First, I have two methods at my disposal for cutting these stumps, one a 12 amp reciprocal saw with a 9 blade made to
cut green wood, and two, I have a sledge hammer and some heavy, pound in mauls. I have to try and make it work as
best I can with either two of those options.









Next, I need to know if you guys would suggest I cut the logs now then stack to dry or would you just leave in stump form
for awhile. This wood has all been sitting since probably the middle to late last year as can be seen in the photo's.

Lastly, how is lumber, after being cut this way, does it tend to warp or crack on you guys or...? Also, I think I will just plain
cut this timber as opposed to quarter sawing.

As always, thank you.


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## The Gopher (Aug 25, 2010)

yes, it may warp and crack, but if you cut the planks a bit thick you should be able to take care of that as well. i would scrap the saw method unless you have a chainsaw mill or a large bandsaw. Google "froe" it is an old time tool that still works great for splitting planks. They work better on some woods more than others. You could make one from a chunk of leaf spring or a flat bar if need be. This is worth pursuing it is a great source of wood for a bit of elbow grease, I've used chunks of leftover firewood before with great results. This slingshot was made from an old log of crab apple that was in the firewood pile for over a year


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## Sean (Nov 17, 2011)

Wow, lovely, thanks for the info, I'll check out the tool.


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## jskeen (Feb 7, 2011)

I tend to agree, splitting is going to be much easier than trying to rip those logs with a reciprocating saw. You want to try for a finished thickness between one and two inches. Thinner it will tend to warp and split full thickness as it dries. Thicker and will take forever to get rid of the moisture down to a workable level. Stack the slabs up on themselves with some 1 inch square pieces of wood between the layers to allow for air circulation. The weight will help minimize warpage. You want to paint the end grain of the wood with something to slow down the moisture loss at the ends, as that is where cracks start. Exterior grade paint is a good choice, There are commercial products for that as well, but they are not cheap. most paint stores will have a can or two of mismixed paint for small money(or for free) , and the color don't matter.


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## Sean (Nov 17, 2011)

Alright, that is good advice that I'll heed. I'll try and not split over the two inch mark. I'll stack it and weight it as well, thanks. That froe looks like a
really cool tool. I'll phone the local logging store and see if I can pick one up. I see Lee Valley tools has one and it's inexpensive but a bit of a
drive from here.


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## rockslinger (Nov 16, 2010)

That's a nice stash of logs!
If you can find a small dry log you could work it with your saw.
Here's one I did about a year ago.

































Good luck...Jim


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## Sean (Nov 17, 2011)

Thanks Jim, that's a beaut! All of these will still be fairly green so will have to be split. It really is bringing back the thrill of board cut catty's
for me.


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## harson (Oct 21, 2011)

Hi Sean i think you would be best taking your logs to a sawmill and get them to saw them for you they need put through a band saw.
then get them stacked ,if you can find an old dry one somewhere start with that,a while back i made one from a log i got from a pub they were just about to throw it in the fire ,turned out stunning ,so many people asked about it i ended up giving it to a guy who liked it ,


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## newconvert (Dec 12, 2011)

cool topic!


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## Sean (Nov 17, 2011)

harson said:


> Hi Sean i think you would be best taking your logs to a sawmill and get them to saw them for you they need put through a band saw.
> then get them stacked ,if you can find an old dry one somewhere start with that,a while back i made one from a log i got from a pub they were just about to throw it in the fire ,turned out stunning ,so many people asked about it i ended up giving it to a guy who liked it ,


Hi John, thanks for your input and suggestion. As we have mills all over town and in neighboring ones as well. I want to try doing this as best I can with my own hand. There just seems to be a bit of a thrill in finding a log or two, rolling it up onto the truck, toting It home and splitting and drying it myself that gives me a bit of satisfaction. However, that may change as I move forward and I may kick myself for not taking your advice.


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## Rockape66 (Dec 18, 2011)

Sean, don't forget using wedges or gluts for slitting logs at length. Gluts are wedges made of hardwood. Using multiple wedges in a single split you can control to straightness of the split to a large degree. Using a froe to rive boards is a skill with a large learning curve. Check out local flea markets and you can usually find a froe. Start with the straightest grained log you can find to teach yourself how to control the slit when riving boards.


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## Sean (Nov 17, 2011)

Rockape66 said:


> Sean, don't forget using wedges or gluts for slitting logs at length. Gluts are wedges made of hardwood. Using multiple wedges in a single split you can control to straightness of the split to a large degree. Using a froe to rive boards is a skill with a large learning curve. Check out local flea markets and you can usually find a froe. Start with the straightest grained log you can find to teach yourself how to control the slit when riving boards.


This is all very interesting, I will keep it in mind and also keep in mind the learning curve on this venture, thanks.


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## Jaxter (Jan 23, 2012)

what woods would a froe work on, would a froe work on gum tree logs?


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## Sean (Nov 17, 2011)

Well, I picked up a froe, and boy was this a lot of work! I did manage to get some planks from the timber, which unfortunately where partially dried which I think made it harder to split with the froe. Reading about it more online, it's a really useable tool if the wood is green and
only about 6 inches in diameter. I've also got to get the edge convexed more so it doesn't bounce out of the slot. Anyhow, it was a great
workout and experience, plus like I said I got some planks drying and actually a whole lot of camp fire wood to burn later.









Like Rockape mentioned, it "is" a real learning curve doing this kind of thing especially with timber over a foot in length. I think though
I will keep at it and try a few different things and see what works best.

Cheers and thanks for all your suggestions and help.


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## The Gopher (Aug 25, 2010)

glad it worked for you, there is satisfaction in using an old style tool like that. Froe's are harder to use on longer logs but fortunately, we don't need much for a slingshot!


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## jskeen (Feb 7, 2011)

What were you using to drive it with? A long cylindrical wooden mallet is the usual tool of choice, over a normal shaped hammer because it has a much longer sweet spot for hitting something thin that is perpendicular to it. It also won't upset the back of the froe the way a metal hammer would. It will eventually wear through in the center and need to be replaced, but it's much easier to turn a new mallet on a lathe than get a new froe blade.


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## Sean (Nov 17, 2011)

Thanks guys, yeah I started with a mallet I made but it split within minutes so I then just grabbed a thick log, just enough for me to get my hands around
it and give it a good smack.


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## richblades (May 2, 2012)

I am certainly no wood carver but here is my attempt at putting something worth shooting together from a log.
My technique is to hit the wood, smack the wood, talk dirty to the wood, sand the wood, saw the wood, until all the wood is gone accept for the slingshot within.


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## Imperial (Feb 9, 2011)

richblades said:


> My technique is to hit the wood, smack the wood, talk dirty to the wood, sand the wood, saw the wood, until all the wood is gone accept for the slingshot within.


(i cant not say it, childish but still funny) thats what she said .


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## jskeen (Feb 7, 2011)

Interesting topic, makes me wonder. Is a slingshot made from a slab rived (riven)? from a log with a froe stronger than one made from a board cut with a saw? I know it is absolutely critical for a bowyer. You can make a bow from a sawn stave, but it's NOT going to shoot well (if at all) I know a slingshot is not bent the way a longbow is, but still, might be an advantage.

Anybody got an opinion?


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## Sean (Nov 17, 2011)

I would assume it might have something to do with the way it's cut rather than the tool used? Just saying plain cut vs. quarter sawn lumber might
make a difference in strength?


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## jskeen (Feb 7, 2011)

That is part of it, you do want to be careful which way you face the grain in a bow stave, even though it's all parallel and hopefully straight. But which direction it was facing in the tree is important too.

As for Riven vs sawn, I think it relates to the fact that you are always splitting along the grain with a froe, vs cutting through it no matter which way it runs with a saw. Again, I dunno if it makes any difference at all in something as short and wide as a slingshot frame vs something long and narrow like a bow stave.

James


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## pop shot (Sep 29, 2011)

the strength is in the grain "sheets" or growth rings, when you shape a bow you find a full length growth ring and chase it all the way down the stave so that the bow's back (the target side) is one continuous growth ring. Gopher would be the guy on this topic. I don't think the forces of a slingshot really come into play enough in this case.


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

I have a fro and have riven a lot of small logs for various trivial reasons. It's something that -- along with splitting larger logs -- brings lot of satisfaction in itself. Also, as Sean has found, it is hard work. I think it is a great way to get exercise along with doing something productive while you are at it. ( I am not a fan of exercising, wearing myself out, and having nothing to show for my effort afterwards.)

Nowadays, though, I don't enjoy splitting anything long. The last time I split a log -- which was about 8 ft. long and 8 in. in diameter -- was about two years ago and I thought I was gonna have a heart attack! Ha, ha! No more of that stuff for me.

What I do now is to use my bow saw and cut the log into short chunks (get a little exercise this way), then split it with my fro, which is fairly easy. I usually get one or two decent slabs from a log of about 6 or 8 inches in diameter.

If the wood is green, I will then use my hatchet to rough out the shape of the slingshot, and then a coping saw to cut the "cup". I work quickly doing this before the wood starts to split right in my hands -- I have lost many a spoon I was carving this way. So the rough-out is quite rough, only vaguely resembling a slingshot. At this point, I begin drying the wood in the microwave. I stick it in a seal-able plastic bag and give it 30-second bursts on high, with 20 - 30 minute cooling periods between. This can require many sessions depending on how wet the wood is.

If the wood is already dry, I don't try to square up a perfect board before starting to make my slingshot. I just get it as flat as I can using my hatchet and a large camping knife I have. Then I use a coping saw to cut it out and the rest is done with my knife and rasps. ( I now have a small band saw to replace the coping saw, but due to reparations being done to my home, I can't use it much at present.)

I know this sounds like I have made many a slingshot this way, but I haven't; just a few. But this is the way I work and I think it is a good and practical way for someone who doesn't have a modern electric woodworking shop. Also the fact that much of the work is done outdoors is very appealing for folks like me who like to get out of the house into the fresh air.


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## akmslingshots (Mar 2, 2012)

I have learned so much from reading this thread, thank you Sean for posting and thats a mighty fine looking stack of timber.


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## richblades (May 2, 2012)

this was the piece left over after hacking away at my log.
I will have to take dayhikers microwave tip next time because this one may have been a little to green.
I guess I'll know once I band it up and see if the forks snap off when I shoot it.


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## Knoll (Nov 10, 2011)

Looks like 'bout 50 planks for your efforts. Kewl! Definitely added satisfaction knowing you formed boardcuts all the way from the log state. Good post!


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

richblades said:


> this was the piece left over after hacking away at my log.
> I will have to take dayhikers microwave tip next time because this one may have been a little to green.
> I guess I'll know once I band it up and see if the forks snap off when I shoot it.


Rich, it certainly won't blow up. The only danger is splitting on its own, not from a fork hit.


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## akmslingshots (Mar 2, 2012)

this was a Yew log, notice were it cracked though. That's why its pinned, the crack was during drying I didn't notice it until sanding.

Its still my most comfy thing to shoot though


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## Knoll (Nov 10, 2011)

akmslingshots said:


> this was a Yew log, notice were it cracked though. That's why its pinned, the crack was during drying I didn't notice it until sanding.
> 
> Its still my most comfy thing to shoot though
> 
> View attachment 20632


That's a svelte-looking slingshot! NICE!!


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

This is why I use mostly plywood for board cuts.


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## akmslingshots (Mar 2, 2012)

Dayhiker said:


> This is why I use mostly plywood for board cuts.


if I am ever lucky enough to own a better bandsaw my intentions are to make my own plywood, best of every world there


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## Sean (Nov 17, 2011)

Thanks guys for the compliments and your input/ideas. I think I might pull a odd piece out of the pile and cut something out and try the microwave
drying method with it. I'm not sure how the wood will hold up against splitting and general strength. I might have to do some pinning on my own.
I do have lots of rods lying around I think I can make use of. If not I'll have more wood in which to use as laminate.
It is a satisfying feeling though the way I obtained the wood for use.


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## akmslingshots (Mar 2, 2012)

it just puts a huge smile on your face when you first shoot the end product, from tree to sling


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## richblades (May 2, 2012)

akmslingshots said:


> it just puts a huge smile on your face when you first shoot the end product, from tree to sling


Yes I agree 100%.
It makes one proud to give birth to a steel spitting monster from from an old log that I'm sure would rather be transformed than burned.
But if it dont shoot well I am grabbing the marshmellows.. after all I have the wood.

Oh I did actually band it up and shoot it and it is a champ.
Not light matches or splitting cards but still got 4 in a sheet of paper with the first 5 shots.


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## akmslingshots (Mar 2, 2012)

its all good


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## Flatband (Dec 18, 2009)

I agree with Andy (AKM), there is something special about cutting the log from the tree,cutting planks from the log and then cutting frame blanks from the planks and turning it into a slingshot. I found that cutting the blanks 2 to 3 inches longer then you need and an inch or so thicker then you need is good after you let them dry for a few months. They will get cracks but usually the extra length and width you left in will be where the cracks are. You just mark the frame out inside the cracks and go for it. Here's a few rough outs and blanks.Flatband


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## Sean (Nov 17, 2011)

Thanks for the pic's there Gary. I remember seeing those on your glo account. I bought a green cutting blade for my recipro saw but it
just wasn't going to get through it perhaps until it dried out a bit more. But it's certainly working for you, thanks for posting, the wood
looks awesome.


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## WILD BILL (Jan 26, 2012)

Ending up with a nice unit, no matter what your materials are is great. I will have to agree, taking a huge chunk of raw material and shaping a good shooter out of it is just an amazing feeling!

I feel that cutting out of the "Heartwood" and pinning the forks are necessary steps with all board cuts just to be safe.

A busted fork and a dent in you head is one thing but an busted prize slingshot is just terrible.

Nice work, beautiful pieces!

Never tried the SAWSALL nice looking cuts Gary. A sharp, wore-out chain on my Echo works for me

Bill


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