# Ring shooter question



## Bucky Webb (Feb 5, 2015)

How do you decide how to cut your forks? Do you cut them where they are a certain length or do you cut them where they will have a certain gap? Also, how do you factor in your rings when deciding where to cut the forks?


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## stinger (Jul 6, 2014)

Cutting tip # 1
- start LONG and work your way down. Hold those rings at different heights just get a look at em. Putting material back on the tips is a bitch. Totally doable, but a bitch, UNLESS that what you are after then it's just part of the fun!


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## Henry the Hermit (Jun 2, 2010)

I cut them so that my thumb and forefinger almost reach the tip of the fork.


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## tyrone8511 (May 2, 2014)

Well advice I got from 1 the master builder was to cut them about 2" from centre of the forks, then it has a nice balance between height and strain on the wrist. I think it also depends how you hold your slingshot hammer, pinch or thumb support. I am not to sure what you mean by rings on the fork, if you refering to the rings to attach the bands I usually make it about 5 to 7mm from the tip. If you shoot gangsta be careful that your fork gap is not too small any slight error in pouch grip or release could result in a fork hit. Hope all this blabble helps you.

Tyrone


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## jazz (May 15, 2012)

If I cut the forks for myself or for few people I know that hold the slingshot pinch grip or thumb support style, then I cut them just like Henry in Panama does - "so that my thumb and forefinger almost reach the tip of the fork".

If I cut them for the mayority of people here than it is (hand grip) with unnecessarily long forks because they prefer so probably because they feel more sure with wider forks.

cheers,

jazz


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## Bucky Webb (Feb 5, 2015)

Thanks guys. I usually shoot pinch or finger/thumb supported, so I will give Henry's method a try.


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

Bucky, I've just had a discussion with Henry from Panama about this very topic. I made my first one (in my opinion) with too narrow a gap between the rings and fork hits were too common an occurrence. Fork hits normally are caused by a poor release or other poor shooting form yet my shooting with my Scout never gets fork hits so it leaves me thinking that the rings I placed too close. Oddly my BB shooter has even a closer gap so who knows.

I'm more of a thumb and finger supported shooter and the ring shooter I made ended up being more of a hammer grip style as there was no where to place my thumb and finger so the grip might be having an affect. I know when I shoot hammer grip style I always shoot low like I"m doing a PFS flip at the end of my shot or something. I've not had the chance to iron out these wrinkles yet as I'm back in Canada now and the ring shooter is still in Mexico.

In our info exchange Henry said to me just as he stated above, that he cuts the forks so that his thumb and finger just about reach the top but in my conversation with him he added that the gap usually ends up at about the 3 inch mark between the rings. Maybe that might be a little detail you need. Good luck.


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## Bucky Webb (Feb 5, 2015)

Thanks Teach, I was curious if the gap was a major factor or not.

One other question(might need to be in the bands/tubes section). What tubes would be good to use for dollar store marbles as ammo? I was hoping to use looped tubes for ease of install but I read on simple-shot that single 2040 is good. Does that mean looped 2040 is too strong for these marbles? Or maybe I should use a pseudo taper 2040 set?


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

I would take that to mean that looped 2040's would be too strong. A lot depends on how much strength you have. I have not shot looped 2040's on anything. I have shot looped 1745's and found even they were too strong for me in that I could not hold them steady without shaking at full draw. I then went to a pseudo taper with the 1745's and found they were much easier to get along with. You will find too tho that that will change for you as you shoot more your strength will change and increase. 3/8 steel is whistling along at a pretty good rate of speed from pseudo 1745's. Pseudo performance is better than straight looped tubes but they don't seem to last as long, maybe only 70% as long as straight loops?

Something else you could try if cost of tubing is a factor you can try office bands like Sterling brand #105's and 107's. I've used these to great affect and they too are very long lasting when properly tied. They are big rubber bands that you cut open the circle formed by the rubber band and open them up to make one long flat band. Several methods of attachment could be used.

Perhaps Henry from Panama might weigh in here as he has a whole lot more experience with different tubes/bands and especially ringers as I am relatively new to them. I've long admired their positive attributes but have only actually been shooting them in the last few months.

Also go here for lots of info; http://slingshotforum.com/forum/93-slingshot-bands-and-tubes/


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## Henry the Hermit (Jun 2, 2010)

Rather than reinvent the wheel, I'll just refer to my threads on Chinese tubes and 107s, both of which are pinned at the top of this Forum. I will note that for 1/2 inch (or so) marbles, 105/107 is overkill and will most likely make you miserable with handslap, and single 2040 is plenty. Looped 2040 is OK, and may be easier than tying singles, but is about twice as much rubber as you need. In my experience marbles tend to curve after about 10 yards.

Oops, just realized this post is in the Newbie Forum. Here are links to those threads.

http://slingshotforum.com/topic/10254-alliance-107-rubber-band-tests/ (107s)

http://slingshotforum.com/topic/13242-testing-chinese-tubes/ (Chinese tubes, mostly 204/1842)


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## Teach (Jul 5, 2014)

Yes I was thinking for other ammo not with marbles.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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