# Different attachment



## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

I find attaching bands to forks with the wound rubber strip method fiddly to do, so I tried securing the bands with 6 " of electrical insulating tape as an alternative. I have fired over 200 shots with this PFS since yesterday and there has been no band slippage or any other problem. Thanks.


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## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

That's cool, how hard is it to get the tape off of the bands? should one need to redo the banding.

LGD


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

lightgeoduck said:


> That's cool, how hard is it to get the tape off of the bands? should one need to redo the banding.
> 
> LGD


That is not a problem as it just peels off the band and the fork surfaces with no glue residue. The tape is a kind of plastic that stretchs as you wrap it, and it seems to just stick good to itself.


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## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

I will have to give it a try,, I have some black electrical tape, I just wasn't sure how it would do on latex... thanks I will let you know how it works for me

LGD


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

I wanted black for my PFS but the shop only stocked blue. My only concern before trying this was that the glue would react with the latex, but that has not happened at all.


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## bullseyeben! (Apr 24, 2011)

Not sure mate, them buggass could come loose on a warmer day at any moment... I don't reckon its safe mate..


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

I understand your concern, but I live in Scotland and we don't get warm days


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## dgui (Jan 12, 2010)

Really give it a very Neat Look. Works by pressure, Nice.


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## slingshot_sniper (Feb 20, 2011)

I keep meaning to try self ammagumating tape,I must get on to it soon


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## whipcrackdeadbunny (May 22, 2010)

No slipping, impressive.


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

I am always amazed at how little pressure it seems to take to hold bands in place. Keep us posted on the longevity of the tape technique. It certainly is easier than the rubber band tie.

Cheers ...... Charles


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

slingshot_sniper said:


> I keep meaning to try self ammagumating tape,I must get on to it soon


That's the effect I was trying to describe. Thanks sniper.


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

Charles said:


> I am always amazed at how little pressure it seems to take to hold bands in place. Keep us posted on the longevity of the tape technique. It certainly is easier than the rubber band tie.
> 
> Cheers ...... Charles


My theory is that the energy needed to stretch the band along it's full length is much less than the energy needed to pull it out of it's attachment point, therefore there is very little stress at the fork fastening as the full band is doing the giving. Also, dry rubber has a natural tendency to grip and not slip. I will keep you informed if I have any problems with this. Thanks.


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## NaturalFork (Jan 21, 2010)

No residue huh? That was my only concern. And if it does not leave any then I say that attachment method is great!


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## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

Well I tested this out,, and it works great (pics later).. a few points to make

1. make sure you get quality electrical tape... not all tape is created equal
2. NF you are right to be concerned about residue, BUT that is only for black electric tape. I had a discussion with my co-worker and though I knew that black tape leaves slight coloring on wires, I didn't know that it was only that specific color. It isn't something to worry over since with a little elbow grease it will come off, its basicly saying that Tubeman you made a good "choice" using blue tape(colors other than black should be fine as well).

I most likely won't use it on all of my forks, but I will definitely use it (black tape doesn't bother me, I don't mind cleaning







)

Thanks TM, this is definitely a quicker way of attaching bands, and no need to cut up latex strips for it.

LGD


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## rubberpower (Aug 16, 2011)

What is it like to live where it doesn't get hot? We have had over 60 days of over 100 deg f. Black tape here would literally melt off the forks in sunlight. That is a great idea only wish I could use it. For what it is worth my deck measured 117 last week.


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

Current temp on my neighbour's garden thermometer is 56 f and there is a cool breeze blowing. I live in a village at the start ot the Highland Walkway so I see a lot of overseas visitors who come to do this walk and a regular comment from US citizens is " wow, it's so green here " I do miss the sunny days of my youth, but apparently Global Warming for Scotland means wet and windy, honest, I read that somewhere. I tell people that we don't tan in Scotland, we just rust


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## bullseyeben! (Apr 24, 2011)

Here in S.A. we can hit 47c for a week or more on end, dunno what thats in farengeight, but yea plastic wouldn't be wise...


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

115 f mate


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## bullseyeben! (Apr 24, 2011)

Maybe you could wack it in the oven for a hour at that temp and see hpw it goes for us lol... I use many diff tapes in my job and have found the adhesive becomes a lubricant just about when hot, any way I just don't any one to loose an eye....


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## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

here is my set up.. so far so good

Like BEB said you wouldn't want to leave this out in the heat for a long time, or if you do just ensure you still have a secure attachment.

All and all, I feel if we do PMCS (Preventive Maintenance Checks and Services) on our slingshots we will be well aware of any issues should they occur, Its no different than ensuring you don't have tears/holes in your bands.

I give this a B+ since it may not be the perfect attachment set up, but it is a great one none the less

Thanks TM

LGD


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

Thanks for that LGD. I am on the lookout for small rubber O rings as I still feel that 3 on each fork and sitting in a shallow grove would work. Just roll them down, position band and roll them up and over it. That would be my perfect attachment on my PFS


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## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

I tried the O-ring thing on one of my naturals, it works great, but its a pain in the butt trying to get it just right, every time I rolled it it caught some of the band so I had to fiddle with it to align it right. Let me know if you find a less time consuming way of doing it

LGD


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

My plan to overcome this problem was to secure the tip of the band to the fork with a small piece of Sellotape, then roll up the O rings over the tape and onto the band, then just peel off the tape. I am not able to put this to the test until I find some O rings unfortunately


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## slingshot_sniper (Feb 20, 2011)

Two words

Castration rings


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

slingshot_sniper said:


> Two words
> 
> Castration rings


I am prepared to make sacrifices for a secure band method, but draw the line at losing my 2 best Buddys


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

Kidding apart, I am not familiar with these. I know what they are used for but can you explain the difference between them and small O rings mate ?


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## slingshot_sniper (Feb 20, 2011)

tubeman said:


> Kidding apart, I am not familiar with these. I know what they are used for but can you explain the difference between them and small O rings mate ?


I think they're from pure latex and would perhaps have more grip than rubber o rings


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## slingshot_sniper (Feb 20, 2011)

But that said I recall Tex shooter say the ring method was not that great


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

Yes, I remember Tex saying that in a previous thread as well, but with all due respect to him, I am talking about securing 3/4 " single strand latex. How hard can that be to secure if 6 " of insulating tape holds it solid ?


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## slingshot_sniper (Feb 20, 2011)

Well they're not that expensive worth a try maybe?


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## slingshot_sniper (Feb 20, 2011)

here's some on the bay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rubber-Castration-Tailing-rings-100s-/220833101299?pt=UK_BOI_FarmingEquipment_RL&hash=item336aadb5f3#ht_500wt_1156


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

They are certainly cheap enough SS, but I would like to see some sizes so that I can compare them to O rings I have seen in the past. They talk about using them on goat horns, but I mean O rings that were about one 1/8 " dia and 1/16 " thick. If I could find them I would use 3 per fork in grooves on my PFS. I had a Gunsmith friend and I think they were air pistol breech seal O rings that he gave me. It was a while ago.


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## gamekeeper john (Apr 11, 2011)

tubeman i realy like the idea of that method, if it does proove to work it is one of the quickest & most easy ways i know of attaching, As a hunter i often find myself changing bands in the woods, i will probaly use this method next time i'm in the woods, it might not be everyones first choice method but in a situation were you need to change your bands quickley its perfect







-- gamekeeper john


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

GJ, I must have shot over 500 3/8 bearings in the last couple of days and there was no band slippage at all with 3/4 single latex, and this was fitted to polished aluminium. I decided to take the tape off last nite and check the rubber and it was in perfect condition


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

Castration rings ... I have used them, and that's why I talk in such a high voice!

Seriously, I used them a lot on the farm to castrate newborn lambs. They are small, and very strong ... but do expand greatly. They are sometimes used to de-horn cattle and goats, but it takes a long time to work on horns; and in my experience, the horns wind up being attached only at once side and then break off, causing pain and bleeding. But that is another story.

I think trying to apply castration rings by hand would be a MAJOR pain. The best bet would be to use castration ring pliers:

http://www.amazon.com/Durvet-Castration-Ring-Pliers/dp/B000HHQGEU

The pliers are not heavy, but it would just be one more piece of kit to carry around out in the bush. If you use the piers to put the rings on, I think they would work quite well.

Cheers .... Charles


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

Thanks for that info Charles. I am currently in the process of making another aluminium PFS and intent to file out the 4 areas marked in ink. I thought perhaps 3 'O' or Castration rings recessed into this slot would hold bands securely. Any thoughts on this ?


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## slingshot_sniper (Feb 20, 2011)

If you have some 1745 tube you could fashion o rings from it to try..maybe


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

Now there's an idea SS, and I have some 1745 tube off cuts. Sometimes I just miss the obvious mate


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## slingshot_sniper (Feb 20, 2011)

tubeman said:


> Now there's an idea SS, and I have some 1745 tube off cuts. Sometimes I just miss the obvious mate


I tried it with one and it was not to bad,it held but more would be better


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

slingshot_sniper said:


> Now there's an idea SS, and I have some 1745 tube off cuts. Sometimes I just miss the obvious mate


I tried it with one and it was not to bad,it held but more would be better








[/quote]
' more would be better ' I have this problem with lager as well


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## slingshot_sniper (Feb 20, 2011)

tubeman said:


> Now there's an idea SS, and I have some 1745 tube off cuts. Sometimes I just miss the obvious mate


I tried it with one and it was not to bad,it held but more would be better








[/quote]
' more would be better ' I have this problem with lager as well








[/quote]
Lol now that's a fact


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

tubeman said:


> Thanks for that info Charles. I am currently in the process of making another aluminium PFS and intent to file out the 4 areas marked in ink. I thought perhaps 3 'O' or Castration rings recessed into this slot would hold bands securely. Any thoughts on this ?


I think the castration rings would hold quite well, particularly if you have filed the indentations to help keep the rings in place. My only worry is that they are circular in cross section, so you will not have as much surface area bearing on the bands as you would with a rubber band tie. Only experimentation will tell you. See if you can get hold of a couple just to try ... check with a local feed store, or ask a sheep farmer. (We sheep farmers frequently use them for docking the tails of newborn lambs as well as for castration.) You could install them with a pair of needle nosed pliers. Just slip the band over the nose of the pliers and push it up well onto the nose. Then use a block of wood between the handles to keep the handles apart; slip a slat of wood between the handles and then turn the slat on edge between the handles, opening the pliers and hence opening the ring, while you slip the ring in place. That will save the expense of the special castration ring pliers and should allow you to at least try the rings.

Let us know how it works.

Cheers ...... Charles


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

" My only worry is that they are circular in cross section, so you will not have as much surface area bearing on the bands as you would with a rubber band tie " That was my concern as well Charles, but I suspect that 3 butted together O rings would provide enough surface area of grip to hold latex bands in check. After all, 6" of PVA tape does that without a problem. I will finish my latest metal PDF tomorrow and put this securing problem to the test, as my quest is to find the quickest / easiest method of attaching bands to forks.
TM


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

tubeman said:


> " My only worry is that they are circular in cross section, so you will not have as much surface area bearing on the bands as you would with a rubber band tie " That was my concern as well Charles, but I suspect that 3 butted together O rings would provide enough surface area of grip to hold latex bands in check. After all, 6" of PVA tape does that without a problem. I will finish my latest metal PDF tomorrow and put this securing problem to the test, as my quest is to find the quickest / easiest method of attaching bands to forks.
> TM


If you are looking for easy, then you should try this. I have just used it myself, and do not know how long it will last. Basically, it is just z-type attachment at the forks. I drilled 1/4 inch holes through the forks. Punched a hole in each band near the end. Used string to pull the end of the band through the hole in the fork. Then stretched the hole in the band over the fork. Here is a photo with one side done and the other partially done:










And here is the finished version:










So, no ties at the pouch, and no ties at the fork. As long as the new bands are pre-punched at each end, it is a snap to change them very quickly indeed. I will have to shoot a lot to see how the fork attachment holds up.

Cheers ....... Charles


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## danielh (Jul 28, 2011)

why not design a low profile attachment method like that metal clamps that use a screw to apply pressure to the bands or tubes, ive been thinking of this i need to hit lowes and see what i can find.


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## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

Charles said:


> " My only worry is that they are circular in cross section, so you will not have as much surface area bearing on the bands as you would with a rubber band tie " That was my concern as well Charles, but I suspect that 3 butted together O rings would provide enough surface area of grip to hold latex bands in check. After all, 6" of PVA tape does that without a problem. I will finish my latest metal PDF tomorrow and put this securing problem to the test, as my quest is to find the quickest / easiest method of attaching bands to forks.
> TM


If you are looking for easy, then you should try this. I have just used it myself, and do not know how long it will last. Basically, it is just z-type attachment at the forks. I drilled 1/4 inch holes through the forks. Punched a hole in each band near the end. Used string to pull the end of the band through the hole in the fork. Then stretched the hole in the band over the fork. Here is a photo with one side done and the other partially done:










And here is the finished version:










So, no ties at the pouch, and no ties at the fork. As long as the new bands are pre-punched at each end, it is a snap to change them very quickly indeed. I will have to shoot a lot to see how the fork attachment holds up.

Cheers ....... Charles
[/quote]

Charles it looks like you run the PFS fork through the hole EDIT: YOU STATE THAT YOU DID THAT.. if that is so and doesn't work, have you tried running the band through the hole? I use that method for my dankung slingshots http://slingshotforu...__fromsearch__1

IF your method lasts let me know I will have to start drilling holes through my PFSs

LGD

LGD


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

lightgeoduck said:


> Charles it looks like you run the PFS fork through the hole EDIT: YOU STATE THAT YOU DID THAT.. if that is so and doesn't work, have you tried running the band through the hole? I use that method for my dankung slingshots http://slingshotforu...__fromsearch__1
> 
> IF your method lasts let me know I will have to start drilling holes through my PFSs
> 
> ...


The only problem with looping the band through itself is that you run into a topological problem when you try to do that on the pouch and on both forks ... you just cannot do all 4 attachments that way. Just do the thought experiment: You attach your bands to the pouch. Next you force the punched end of the first band through the hole in the first fork. Then you do an attachment to the first fork, by drawing the other band, the pouch, and the first band through the hole in the end of the first band. Now, you force the punched end of the second band through the hole in the second fork. But there is no "end" to draw through the hole in the second band ... checkmate. It is impossible to do all 4 attachments this way.

Of course there are all sorts of alternatives, but this is the simplest I have come up with. With holes in the forks, you can also switch to chains quickly and easily, so there is that added benefit. So far, I have fired about 50 shots of 11 mm lead ball with no sign of a problem. I will keep you posted.

Cheers ..... Charles


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

danielh said:


> why not design a low profile attachment method like that metal clamps that use a screw to apply pressure to the bands or tubes, ive been thinking of this i need to hit lowes and see what i can find.


Yep, that would work ... just use a bar of metal or plastic across the back, with a screw and nut at each end. For example, I could just cut a small bar from my cutting board material and drill holes for the screws ... perhaps one at each end, maybe one in the middle. But that is not as simple as the z-type attachment. And it requires metal screws and nuts. I am hoping to stay metal free and have the attachment with no extra ties or paraphenalia of any kind.

It is not clear to me that a clamp arrangement has any advantages over a rubber band tie. When I need to undo the tie, I just spit on the rubber bands and then pull one end ... the knots are then easy to undo, and I can use the same rubber band to tie on the replacement band. But to each his/her own. You may well find a clamping bar to be preferable. If you try it, please post pictures of your arrangement and let us know how it works.

Cheers ...... Charles


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## bullseyeben! (Apr 24, 2011)

tubeman said:


> I find attaching bands to forks with the wound rubber strip method fiddly to do, so I tried securing the bands with 6 " of electrical insulating tape as an alternative. I have fired over 200 shots with this PFS since yesterday and there has been no band slippage or any other problem. Thanks.


Just curious, what part of attaching the bands to the fork do you
find fidly, obviously simply wrapping rubber around a fork is no different to wrapping tape, would i be correct to assume its tucking the rubber under itself? may have one more suggestion thats all, cheers
Ben


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## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

Charles.. my calculator works







,, I just didn't realize you do it to the pouch as well.. my china slingshots only get the z at the forks since that's the best way to use flatbands on the ones I have.

So to revamp my previous suggestion. if you find the way you are currently are doing to be ineffective for the long haul, maybe try looping the bands through the hole and attaching them to the pouch using another fashion.

LGD


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## bullseyeben! (Apr 24, 2011)

Ok so I don't, never have , never will use them plier type gizzmos to help with pulling the band under its self, as gamekeeper J said, changing bands when out or hunting can be a nuisance, espescially carrying tools arond with you. This is hiw i do it, and with 2 or 3 tries each fork can be secured within and under a minute, easy if you ask me, and safe... bugga them pliers things all ya needs a bit of string, nylon in this case , tie a loop in it, and there's your pull through devise... wrap the rubber of cuts or what ever as normal around the band and fork, pulling tight, about 5 times, put the looped string on the fork, and tight around another 3 or 4 times, then feed the tie through the loop, still pulling.g tight, than pull the string back under the tie. Easy peazy!


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## hanomag (Jan 8, 2010)

I always use pieces about 5 mm long of therra tube blue instead o rings . Flip it over the fork, put your band in place and roll the tube back into the grooves. Works good for me


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

hanomag said:


> I always use pieces about 5 mm long of therra tube blue instead o rings . Flip it over the fork, put your band in place and roll the tube back into the grooves. Works good for me


Thanks for that. I will give that a go on a PFS i am making atm. It sounds exactly like what I am looking for in attachments


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

I have now fired 300+ shots from my cutting board pfs, using the z-type attachment of bands to forks and pouch to bands. Everything is still holding fine, and there is no sign of abrasion, tearing, or other damage either at the forks or at the bands.

Cheers ....... Charles


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

I put another 100 shots on the set-up today. That's 400 shots with no sign of fatigue on the bands, at the forks, or at the pouch.

Cheers ..... Charles


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## lightgeoduck (Apr 3, 2011)

Charles said:


> I put another 100 shots on the set-up today. That's 400 shots with no sign of fatigue on the bands, at the forks, or at the pouch.
> 
> Cheers ..... Charles


well I am going to give this a try on my PFS for sure then..

Thanks for the update

LGD


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

Just an update ... I have fired about another 25-50 shots, mostly stones, with the PFS with z type attachments of Alliance 105 bands at both forks and pouch, as described above. One band finally failed at the pouch. The hole in the band tore through. The fork attachments still appear to be just fine. All thinks considered, I would take this as a positive test.

Frankly, I still prefer the tube ring connection at the pouch, since that works well for tapered bands, very thin bands, and for tubes. In my opinion, it also looks neater. But it is more of a pain to do.

Cheers ........ Charles


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## toxophool (Nov 22, 2011)

Charles said:


> " My only worry is that they are circular in cross section, so you will not have as much surface area bearing on the bands as you would with a rubber band tie " That was my concern as well Charles, but I suspect that 3 butted together O rings would provide enough surface area of grip to hold latex bands in check. After all, 6" of PVA tape does that without a problem. I will finish my latest metal PDF tomorrow and put this securing problem to the test, as my quest is to find the quickest / easiest method of attaching bands to forks.
> TM


If you are looking for easy, then you should try this. I have just used it myself, and do not know how long it will last. Basically, it is just z-type attachment at the forks. I drilled 1/4 inch holes through the forks. Punched a hole in each band near the end. Used string to pull the end of the band through the hole in the fork. Then stretched the hole in the band over the fork. Here is a photo with one side done and the other partially done:










And here is the finished version:










So, no ties at the pouch, and no ties at the fork. As long as the new bands are pre-punched at each end, it is a snap to change them very quickly indeed. I will have to shoot a lot to see how the fork attachment holds up.

Cheers ....... Charles
[/quote]

Charles, are those Alliance 107#s you're using there?


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## Charles (Aug 26, 2010)

Either 107s or 105s ... they are the same, only the 105s are shorter than the 107s.

Cheers ...... Charles


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## skipman (May 1, 2011)

sorry to but in tubeman i am trxing to get in tuch with you


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