# Bill's slot lock banding tie system



## Tex-Shooter (Dec 17, 2009)

Here is a new video of me stumbling around, but showing what I want anyway in spite of myself! This is what happens when you don't think what you are going to say before filming. Also it shows how things get out of the picture when not planned too well! Well anyway I hope that you learn something from the video and enjoy a silly old man's bumbles.







I designed this system several years ago and it is on several of my slingshots. -- Tex-Shooter


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## Gwilym (Dec 9, 2010)

I like that it makes band changes so quick and easy. Nice vid. I didn't have sound when i watched it so i missed out on your bumbling I'm afraid


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## BCLuxor (Aug 24, 2010)

Great idea! I like methods of attatchment that kind of "use themselves to make themselves tighter".. eliminates poor knot tying ( in my case anyway).


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## mckee (Oct 28, 2010)

great method bill!


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## dgui (Jan 12, 2010)

Simple Snugg and Incredible Fast on and off.


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## wd40 (Jul 19, 2010)

Bill,

The "slot-lock" system is incredible.

You know so dang much about slingshots.

And I have this sneaking suspicion that you just feed the herd a little at a time. Nonetheless, a little is better than nothing.

Thanks for sharing.

WD40


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## Melchior (Dec 27, 2009)

Indeed, this is a very elegant method. And with a little modification, it should work just as well on a Y-shaped fork.


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## e~shot (Jun 3, 2010)

Thanks Tex.


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## Tex-Shooter (Dec 17, 2009)

I have a couple of classics and tree forks with the tie slots. It works fine if the bands are not tied to close to the tips. By the way the tie rubber should always be finished from the inside to the outside of the fork. -- Tex-Shooter


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## Dayhiker (Mar 13, 2010)

I don't understand how that stays in place but I sure like the speed and efficiency. Thanks, Bill!


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## Tex-Shooter (Dec 17, 2009)

I have been asked why I don't trim them. Maybe I need to make a video on trimming tie rubber!







The answer for above is the slot is much thinner than the tie rubber, so it swells in the slot and stays put there. If you leave about 1/16 of an inch stuck out of the slot, which is enough to get hold of and pull it out, releasing the whole tie. -- Tex-shooter


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## tubeman (Mar 7, 2011)

Clever stuff that


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## Ted (May 27, 2011)

I think this is a great design. I tried tying the bands to the fork using constrictor knots the other day but this design is much faster for both on and off.


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## hawk2009 (Dec 30, 2009)

Ingenious thats a great idea Bill i'm sure many others will be jumping on the bandwagon and will be using this method to attatch the bands.to their slingshots.


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## slingshot_sniper (Feb 20, 2011)

Amazing Bill


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## watcher by night (Jun 14, 2010)

Very slick system, Tex! I like the way it makes it so easy to re-use the tie rubber as long as it hasn't been on so long it's lost its elasticity. 
Plus I like the fact that it's easy to use (easy is always good for someone coordination-challenged like me).


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## wd40 (Jul 19, 2010)

I've been thinking of putting a slot-lock on my favorite board cut.

I usually use a thin strip of ribbon to bring the tying band through, and it doesn't take but a second. But this idea keeps sounding better and better the more I think of it.

Just wanted to bump this thread up. If anyone's used this method since Bill shared it, let us know how it's working out.

Again, great idea, Bill.

WD40


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## Ted (May 27, 2011)

I tried this on a natural, and it's holding. The saw has a 0.02" thick blade and 15 teeth per inch. I cut the slot barely 1/4" deep. I use a cut #32 red rubber band to tie the band to the fork. Although it's holding, probably a slightly thinner saw blade would work even better.

If I just stretch the rubber band and slip it into the slot and then pull with only moderate force on the rubber band, it will easily slide right through the slot in the long direction. However, when used to attach the band to the fork, there isn't that much pull on the end of the rubber band, so it stays put in the slot. Suggest you try it out on a scrap piece of the material you're making the slingshot out of, and see if it works.

Many thanks to Bill for this idea.


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## wd40 (Jul 19, 2010)

Hey, that looks great, Ted.

A very professional, neat job.

That is what I was looking for. I shall try her out for myself.

Again, many thanks.

WD40


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## jskeen (Feb 7, 2011)

I put this on a splitframe that I sent to Aaron for the first time, and it's a fantastic way to put bands on and take them off. It's practical, elegant and totally tool free. I used a hacksaw for the cuts on that one, and after a little sanding to smooth them out, they were too wide to hold a single thickness of tbg. Would probably work great for a single 64 rubber band or a strip of 107.

I think next time I'll use a dovetail saw with no set, and see if I can get a kerf narrow enough to hold the TBG. If not, the wider slot still holds solid if you double the tie strip over itself and put a twist in it before you stretch it down into the slot.


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## jskeen (Feb 7, 2011)

delete double post


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## Tex-Shooter (Dec 17, 2009)

Scroll saw or coping saw! I use 1/16 gum rubber for tying when using this method! I rhink that I first tried this in 2004. One of our 2004 tounament slingshots had the slot. -- Tex


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