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beginner rasps or router?


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#1 ryanpaul

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Posted 19 March 2017 - 04:53 PM


i wanted to get ok with rasps before i got router. im now thinking that ill have plenty of time for getting good w/ rasps aside from rounding edges? what did/would  you all do?



#2 brucered

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Posted 19 March 2017 - 05:51 PM

I don't use my router for naturals, which is what I make most. But it sure comes in handy when I'm making Poly or Boardcut frames.

Once you buy the router, you'll need to add a few bucks in bits, base plate and maybe even a router table.

For a long time, I just uses a router base plate and clamped it in a work station for a pseudo router table. Since then, I have made my own table with the base plate, as it was from Lee Valley and the plate came with plans to make one.

Routers can be fairly cheap, especially if you can find a local used one. They come in handy for other things if you venture into small furniture making, cases, display shelves etc.

Edited by brucered, 19 March 2017 - 05:53 PM.

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#3 mattwalt

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Posted 20 March 2017 - 03:53 AM

Like Brucered says - try find one secondhand - handheld is fine - If it has a baseplate with guide rods its easy to make a table for it board with a hole and the router clamped in from the bottom... 


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#4 ryanpaul

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Posted 20 March 2017 - 12:23 PM

I don't use my router for naturals, which is what I make most. But it sure comes in handy when I'm making Poly or Boardcut frames.

Once you buy the router, you'll need to add a few bucks in bits, base plate and maybe even a router table.

For a long time, I just uses a router base plate and clamped it in a work station for a pseudo router table. Since then, I have made my own table with the base plate, as it was from Lee Valley and the plate came with plans to make one.

Routers can be fairly cheap, especially if you can find a local used one. They come in handy for other things if you venture into small furniture making, cases, display shelves etc.

 

Like Brucered says - try find one secondhand - handheld is fine - If it has a baseplate with guide rods its easy to make a table for it board with a hole and the router clamped in from the bottom... 

im getting one with 3hp bunch of power, n plan on attaching it and a jig saw to small tables.



#5 mattwalt

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Posted 20 March 2017 - 02:01 PM

 

I don't use my router for naturals, which is what I make most. But it sure comes in handy when I'm making Poly or Boardcut frames.

Once you buy the router, you'll need to add a few bucks in bits, base plate and maybe even a router table.

For a long time, I just uses a router base plate and clamped it in a work station for a pseudo router table. Since then, I have made my own table with the base plate, as it was from Lee Valley and the plate came with plans to make one.

Routers can be fairly cheap, especially if you can find a local used one. They come in handy for other things if you venture into small furniture making, cases, display shelves etc.

 

Like Brucered says - try find one secondhand - handheld is fine - If it has a baseplate with guide rods its easy to make a table for it board with a hole and the router clamped in from the bottom... 

im getting one with 3hp bunch of power, n plan on attaching it and a jig saw to small tables.

 

 

 

Its what I'm trying to get sorted my side - same setup. 


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#6 ryanpaul

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Posted 20 March 2017 - 05:00 PM

 

 

I don't use my router for naturals, which is what I make most. But it sure comes in handy when I'm making Poly or Boardcut frames.

Once you buy the router, you'll need to add a few bucks in bits, base plate and maybe even a router table.

For a long time, I just uses a router base plate and clamped it in a work station for a pseudo router table. Since then, I have made my own table with the base plate, as it was from Lee Valley and the plate came with plans to make one.

Routers can be fairly cheap, especially if you can find a local used one. They come in handy for other things if you venture into small furniture making, cases, display shelves etc.

 

Like Brucered says - try find one secondhand - handheld is fine - If it has a baseplate with guide rods its easy to make a table for it board with a hole and the router clamped in from the bottom... 

im getting one with 3hp bunch of power, n plan on attaching it and a jig saw to small tables.

 

 

 

Its what I'm trying to get sorted my side - same setup. 

 

i got 6amp jig saw on way that should keep me from bandsaw for a while??? i think i would get scroll saw anyway???? you???


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#7 brucered

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Posted 20 March 2017 - 05:02 PM

I don't use my jigsaw for anything slingshot related, it's all scroll saw for me.

I have contemplated a bandsaw, but members here have me wondering if I need it.

Edited by brucered, 20 March 2017 - 05:03 PM.

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#8 ryanpaul

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Posted 20 March 2017 - 05:33 PM

I don't use my jigsaw for anything slingshot related, it's all scroll saw for me.

I have contemplated a bandsaw, but members here have me wondering if I need it.

it looks like the cuts are more detail and fine with scroll saw.  slower is downside i hear. how long does it take to cut out 3/8 aluminum blank?


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#9 brucered

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Posted 20 March 2017 - 05:53 PM



it looks like the cuts are more detail and fine with scroll saw. slower is downside i hear. how long does it take to cut out 3/8 aluminum blank?


I have one done wood, roughing on naturals and Poly.

It was for cutting G10, Micarta and aluminum that was I was looking at a bandsaw. One of these days I get my hands on some material to try it on the scroll saw.
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#10 ryanpaul

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Posted 20 March 2017 - 07:20 PM

then let me know please. cuz im pretty sure im rollin with the scroll saw neatness if not so bad. shouldnt be ive seen youtube, that setup cut fast as anything else.


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#11 ryanpaul

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Posted 20 March 2017 - 07:21 PM

 

it looks like the cuts are more detail and fine with scroll saw. slower is downside i hear. how long does it take to cut out 3/8 aluminum blank?


I have one done wood, roughing on naturals and Poly.

It was for cutting G10, Micarta and aluminum that was I was looking at a bandsaw. One of these days I get my hands on some material to try it on the scroll saw.

 

then let me know please. cuz im pretty sure im rollin with the scroll saw neatness if not so bad. shouldnt be ive seen youtube, that setup cut fast as anything else.


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#12 The Gopher

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 06:53 AM

OK here we go: Assuming you are making these for personal use, not running a business.

 

You don't need a bandsaw unless you will be re-sawing boards to make thinner boards.

 

A scroll saw will do everything you need, just go slow. I will cut out profiles from 2" thick hardwood slabs on my scroll saw and profiles from 1/4" aluminum, I'm sure you could do 3/8" as well. I also cut out G10 profiles on the scroll saw up to 1/4". you will go through a lot of blades on G10 but scroll saw blades are cheap. I lubricate the blade as I go when cutting aluminum by touch the blade frequently with a block of paraffin. as far as time goes, for me to cut out a profile from 1/4" aluminum I'd say it takes 10 minutes, which is not long at all when you think about it.

 

Routers can be had for real cheap, I built my own custom router table that has three routers mounted next to each other each with a different bit setup so I don't have to change a thing (Flush trim, 1/4" roundover, small beading bit for fork grooves) I'll try to find a picture. I got the routers for 10 bucks each at the pawn shop and built the table from scrap.

 

Rasps: if you get good rasps (and you should they are worth every penny) they will cost more than the routers. I'd get a nicholoson #49 and #50 which are two very good cabinet rasps. they cost about 50 bucks each, but will last a lifetime if you use them properly and take care of them.



#13 brucered

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 07:39 AM

Great advice, tips and suggestions. This is valuable information for anyone in the home slingshot making sector.

Edited by brucered, 13 April 2017 - 07:40 AM.

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#14 inconvenience

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 08:49 AM

I'm working with mostly hand tools right now. But my next power tool will be a small router table from Home Depot. About 120 bucks router included. It's a decent brand too. (can't remember which)

Just being able to knock out a consistent symmetrical edge in a few minutes on my board cuts will be like going from the stone age to steel for me.

Edited by inconvenience, 13 April 2017 - 08:50 AM.

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#15 The Gopher

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 02:13 PM

http://slingshotforu...=+router +table

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#16 ryanpaul

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 03:01 PM

http://slingshotforu...=+router +table

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awesome, never woulda seen this? thought id been through them all? thanks!!!



#17 brucered

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 03:28 PM

http://slingshotforu...=+router +table

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

That is an awesome setup, I love your 3 station table.

With only 1 router, limited workspace and a wife who things I have enough tools....I use this setup. My scroll saw is on another work bench.

b796a99f0ceea689e816de19caaea806.jpg

I take the spinder/belt sander off and my homemade router/table is underneath. I'm mainly a natural frame maker, so don't use the router that much right now. The sander usually gets a good workout though.

766c8b9645dfc02f7b8691cdba6a84b7.jpg

Edited by brucered, 13 April 2017 - 03:46 PM.


#18 The Gopher

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 06:08 AM

I've got the same Ridgid sander, I love it!



#19 SlingNerd

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 09:52 AM

Oh yeah? Well I have a Lowe's brand coping saw and a Nicholson file set.

Jealous yet?

No but really at 24 living in a shoebox apartment and perpetually broke, there's some major tool envy over here.

Keeping notes of everything here for the day I can expand a little bit!

#20 brucered

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 10:53 AM

Oh yeah? Well I have a Lowe's brand coping saw and a Nicholson file set.

Jealous yet?

No but really at 24 living in a shoebox apartment and perpetually broke, there's some major tool envy over here.

Keeping notes of everything here for the day I can expand a little bit!

Don't feel bad....At 24, I had none of this.

As nice as it is to have some tools, you work with what you have. I probably use my 4-1 file that cost $10, more than anything else in my shop when making slingshots.

Edited by brucered, 14 April 2017 - 10:53 AM.





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