During the summer of 2013, Bill Hays sponsored a series of slingshot precision shooting competitions. The distance for each of the competitions was the same ... 10 meters, or 33 feet. Here is the thread for the competitions, and you should peruse the thread for examples of each of the feats described below.
Several of the participants thought it would be nice to have badges associated with demonstrated skill. The badges were awarded based on shooting videos that met some strict criteria. These badges may be awarded to those who did not participate in the competitions, providing a video is posted which meets the criteria.
To begin, please note the following:
1) You cannot use lasers or enhanced optics like a magnified scope.
2) You must support the weapon yourself, no benchrests, prone shooting or resting the elbows on a solid surface.
3) Shoulder stocks, wrist braces, are allowed ... and if you want to shoot while sitting down, that's fine too.
4) Ammo should be .60 caliber (15 mm) or smaller.
For each badge, the video must be unedited. The target must be clearly visible, reasonably close up, and the shooter must be visible. For the timed events, a clock must be visible in the frame as well. Note: the target must be visible for the entire shooting sequence ... that is to avoid any possibility of switching or manipulating the target.
Either one of two camera setups is preferred.
1. You may mount a mirror next to the catch box. The camera is set up in front of the catch box, but somewhat off to one side. The focus is on the targets ... matches, cards, etc. ... but the shooter must be visible in the mirror. Here is an example:
2. You may mount the camera slightly behind the targets, focused on the targets, but also with a view down the range to the shooter. Here is an example:
There is a more problematic camera arrangement.
3. The camera may be set up behind the shooter, with the targets down range. This setup is very poor, because it is difficult to verify what is going on at the target site. For example, it is difficult to tell that a card is undamaged if more than one shot is taken. To avoid controversy and ill feelings, you are strongly advised to use arrangement 1 or 2, above, rather than this one. PLEASE DO NOT USE THIS ARRANGEMENT.
When shooting, the shooter should stand behind a visible barrier of some sort ... a table, a saw horse, a concrete block, etc. Immediately after the shooting, the distance must be verified by tape measure. The distance must be measured on camera, from the front of the catch box to the shooting position. The video should also show a clear view down the entire range.
If you can do the shot legitimately, then there is no good reason not to document it appropriately. Out of respect to those who have already accomplished these feats, please do not consider yourself to be exempt from these criteria. It is not that we are questioning YOUR personal integrity ... but if we accept one questionable video from you, then we have no grounds for not accepting every questionable video from anyone.
For this badge, the target is a strike-anywhere match, at a distance of 10 meters or 33 feet. The match may be mounted any way you see fit. Best results seem to be obtained when the match is in a vertical position, angled about 30 degrees toward the shooter. Most of the fellows used a length of 1745 rubber tubing, with the match stuck into one end of the tubing and a piece of wire stuck into the other end of the tubing. The wire is then attached to a solid support ... the match can be pointing up or hanging down. Etched or sanded steel ammo seems to work best, with moderate, rather than high velocity ... 200 fps or less. The match must burst into flame ... not just smoke. The match must remain attached and clearly burst into flame. Knocking the head off the match does not count. You may mount several matches at once, but the matches must be a minimum of 2 inches apart. The separation between the matches must be verified in the video.
For this badge, the target is the edge of a standard playing card. Before the shot, the card must be in pristine condition, uncreased and undamaged. The goal is to cut the card cleanly with one shot from a distance of 10 meters. The card may be supported by a clamp. To count as a cut and not just a tear, the cut must not occur right at the clamp ... there must be a portion of the card remaining between the clamp and the cut. The cut must be the full width of the card, not just a portion (for example, not just the top corner). For this badge, it is very important that the card be seen close up. If your video shows more than one shot, it must be possible to verify that the card was not damaged by any shot prior to the cutting shot. For this reason, you should avoid placing the camera behind the shooter. If you insist on placing the camera behind the shooter and you take more than one shot, then after each shot you must walk the camera up to the card to show that the card has not been damaged. The card must remain clearly in the view of the camera during the entire process. You may mount several cards at once, but they must be spaced a minimum of 2 inches (5 cm) apart, and that distance must be verified in the video.
For this badge, the goal is to strike a match and cut a card with one shot, at a distance of 10 meters. The match is positioned with the head in front of the edge of the card, match and card arranged as described above. The restrictions indicated for both the match strike and the card cutter badges apply.
For this badge, the targets are threads. Each thread is attached to an overhead support, and then hangs down with some sort of weight attached to the end ... usually a soda can. Several threads are hung, but they must be at least 2 inches (5 cm) apart. The shooting distance is 10 meters. The goal is to cut as many threads as possible in one minute. Your badge will indicate the number of threads cut. In order to get a badge, you must cut a minimum of 2 threads. It is best to use wimpy cotton thread ... polyester or nylon threads are too tough to cut. You may attach small sticky labels to the threads as an aiming point to make it easier to see the threads. Your video should show the cans and threads clearly enough that it is possible to tell that when one can falls that it does not cause another thread to break. For this badge, there must also be a clock with a second hand clearly visible in the video to verify the continuity of the shoot. You may shoot as many shots as you like, but the time limit is one minute. The one minute time limit will be measured from the point at which the first shot hits the backstop. Any cuts after the one minute limit will not count.
I hope these conditions are clear. If there are any questions, do send me a PM.
Cheers ....... Charles
Edited by Charles, 03 December 2013 - 05:13 PM.