35 replies to this topic

[smitty]

Rob, the hole in the leather is small enough to keep some tension on the peg when the rubber is stretched through it. Too large a hole wouldn't be a good idea for peg retention.

[whipcrackdeadbunny]

wd40, on 07 September 2010 - 12:47 PM, said:

attaching tube to natural fork.jpg

Does the plastic of the tie, not cut into the rubber?

[joseph_curwen]

smitty, on 07 September 2010 - 01:11 PM, said:

Good looking attachments, especially with the Trumark plastic. How do they shoot. Here is what I am trying now:
DSCN0789.JPG

Notice the peg for a quick change. I think these, being flexible, flex with the rubber more and help it to last longer. They shoot very well, but still have not proven them to last longer than attaching like flats.

i really like this way of attanching tubes. I'm waiting for my 1745 to test it

[whipcrackdeadbunny]

Do you find the release has more flex, so it can be off target easier?

[baumstamm]

whipcrackdeadbunny, on 08 September 2010 - 07:20 AM, said:

wd40, on 07 September 2010 - 12:47 PM, said:

attaching tube to natural fork.jpg

Does the plastic of the tie, not cut into the rubber?

no, the plastic didnt cut the rubber. i´ve used cabel ties when i can´t wait shooting a new fork. there are much more elegant ways to tie the lether . with this atatchment tubes last much longer then any other i´ve tryed. it might be dangerous because of the heavy dowels, but i didn´t have any problems with. it is very pricise!!

[jmplsnt]

With my tabs, I have always attempted to select leather that is very strong, yet somewhat soft and pliant. I also run the elastic completely around the tab and bind it back on itself. In the beginning this was simply just because it was the way I saw others made. Now that I have some off-hitches under my belt shooting with this style of catapult I can offer a few observations on why elastics do so well with it:

1) I use strong but somewhat soft and pliant leather. When the elastic is stretched the leather's shape changes from flat to curved. This gives the elastic something curved to pull against versus what you would think of as sharp edges on the leather. When you release the tension the leather returns to its normal shape.

2) By using the multiple-strand chains, each of the strands is taking some of the strain. In my experience (and the experts may differ) rubber is under the greatest danger from abrasion on its edges. By having ten edges stretching less than two edges getting maximum stretch you're going to have less band breakage. I also don't taper as I feel the thickness at the pouch end keeps my bands alive much longer.

3) I bind my bands, be they chains or tubes, on my tabs with just a tiny bit of stretch room. By this I mean the portion bound around the leather tab can stretch a small amount, too. This is my fail-safe which gives the band just a little bit extra to stretch in the event they are "up against the wall".

4) In reference to #3, what I mean by this is the width of the leather tab creates a loop for the band as it runs around it. They are tied securely; there is no hanging loop as in the dankungs. The secured loop is still of course elastic material and while it doesn't stretch the wild majority of shots when it's needed it can and does stretch. The wild majority of band failures are either at the pocket or fork. By giving the band a little insurance (without making it overly long, or for that matter longer period) the tabs allow them to stretch when their laccy is in a bind. Everyone knows elastics stretch more at the pocket end, and this is why, in my opinion, tapered bands break more quickly. Even if the band is not tapered (as with the cadenas) by giving the band an oppurtunity to flex that little bit more you're extending the life of the band without really changing the band's length more than a few millimeters. And when this little extra (which in reality isn't extra at all) keeps me from changing elastics that's a fine, fine thing.

5) Finally, on a gypsy tabs slingshot strapped up as I do mine, the point where the elastic leads back from the fork is completely free of any touching, interference, and abrasion from the fork. The elastic leads straight back to the shooter and when released doesn't abrade against the fork, period, due to it's being bound on itself. If you think about it, almost every style of slingshot has this kind of abrasion--tube-on rods, over-the-top, through-the-hole (Milbro), and Mexican tie (though not as bad as the others). I'm not presenting this kind of slingshot as some sort of miracle cure but it does solve many of the pressing problems in a very low-key and low-tech way and offers much to shooters who will give it a chance.

I want everyone to know I'm not pushing my style of slingshot or bands on anyone; just offering my two cents. I welcome spirited debate on the above points!

Smitty you've beaten me to the punch on this, though I have done this with a knockoff Milbro recently in order to mount the cadenas and it works fine.

[Dayhiker]

Hey Jmp,
Just couldn't wait for you to get off the boat. I was really missing shooting the BadBoy, so I re-armed her with the closest thing I could find at the hardware store -- 1/4" diameter surgical tube. Also because I really like your all-purpose pouch I kept it. But I changed to the "knot-in-tube" connection, which is working out nicely. Don't know, but I think this might last longer than the kink-and-tie. I have been able to keep a 9" grouping at 18 yds. with this, the first day of shooting. (1/2" steel)
Love this catty, man!

Attached Files

•  one.jpg   108.98K   86 downloads
•  knot in tube.jpg   16.51K   63 downloads

[jmplsnt]

Looks good to me. Keep us posted regarding how it works and its durability. I also like the use of hardware store materials to keep things going. For those wondering about my Point #1, you can look at Dayhiker's first picture in his preceding post for a perfect illustration.

BTW, I began the Countdown at sundown today......one week out!

[Deimos]

whats wrong with using the common flatband method?

I used some red tube to protect the yellow XD

the back, you see, I don't like my bands moving, lol

[baumstamm]

if u don´t protect this place u will get to much friction and abrasion there .
but how abt shooting like the nick do? not pulling against the fork like here the rubber flys streight over the fork. this could be better 4 tubes, i´don´t know?

[Nico]

baumstamm, on 10 October 2010 - 04:23 AM, said:

if u don´t protect this place u will get to much friction and abrasion there .
but how abt shooting like the nick do? not pulling against the fork like here the rubber flys streight over the fork. this could be better 4 tubes, i´don´t know?

Thats why I favor this method because it always flighs over the fork (no fork hits ever) the key is using the right insulation for the rubber you are attaching, I have used this method with tubes and with round solids having lasted me well over 500 shots without any wear signs. Pulling against the ties with this method is safe as long as you use enough rubberbands and prepare the fork correctly.

The secret to wear prevention in this method is connected to the insulator that you use. The other side is how the fork is carved which is something I shared with DH.

Here's a fork with round solids using this attachment I have had it for months barely now showing signs of wear from shooting  capulina1.jpg   71.92K   57 downloads

I have a co-worker from Nayarit Mexico that also used this attachment, he said that he would use a thin plastic strip as insulation before tying with rubberbands. He said they always lasted him 6 months shooting/hunting I admit I have never tried the plastic strip but I think its a good idea and even some wide bike innertube strips and a cloth insulator like I use befor tying down with rubberbands.

You have to carve your fork in this manner for the Mexican tie down method  el tiburon 1.jpg   33.72K   42 downloads this is a half knotch in the front this is to trap and hold the rubberband ties in place and creates greater constriction hold.
 el tiburon 2.jpg   66.8K   34 downloads this is the back it is flat and where you install the bands and where you draw back the bands. This method works with all elastics and I even have an antler fork with black squares attached in this way.