I've been working on a natural oak fork that I believe will be a nice shooter if I don't screw it up. Fork heights is 2 in (50 mm), fork diameter 1 1/8th inches (28.5 mm). One is almost perfectly round, the other is slightly elliptical and dimension vary by only 1/16th in ( 1.6 mm ). The width between the forks at the top is 2 1/2 in (64mm). Handle width is from 1 3/8 to 1/ 5/8 in (35-40 mm). Height is @ 7 1/2 (190 mm). It will get shortened some.
As you can see I've been doing some carving. Around the lower part of the forks and along the handle. That is two finger grooves and the beginning of a pinky hole. I will cut it below that at an angle so it stands up and put a lanyard hole on the lowest part. I plan it as a thumb brace finger wrap though the thumb can also be wrapped around. It fits me very nice. I've been taking my time with the carving, literally checking the feel every 30 seconds.
I have yet to start on the fork attachments. I want to make grooves around the top of the forks to support OTT attachments, I also want to put an appropriate size hole in the center of the forks for tubes. To top it off, so to speak, I'd like to put slight grooves/valley across the very tops of the forks for tubes to lay across. I have seen that on a SPS, on some of the Bill Hays models and other slingshots, the hole in the fork is wide enough to support RRT tubes through the hole with a ball in tube method or some other method and is a good size for loose Chinese tubes. I have a bit of Theratube Red which is actually slightly narrower than the RRT tubes, but I would like it to also accommodate Chinese tubes in the future.
1) I assume that the slit on the forks as on Chinese shooters, a SPS and many Bill Hays models which is used to slide the tubes on is out of the question with a natural. So I would have to obviously have to attach looped tubes the hard way, feeding through the hole on the fork first before securing at the pouch. Am I wrong?? Is it possible to make this slit on a thick fork like this and not screw it up??? Would moving the holes off center to leave a thicker section solve strength issues?? Also smoothing the inside of the slit will be a concern as with the inside of the fork holes.
2) What would be the appropriate size hole for the methods I mentioned, a hole large enough to support my Theratube Red through (width 8mm @ 5/16th inch) ?? Someone in chat mentioned their Chines shooter's hole was @ 9mm, but I don't know that they support a fixed tube attachment. What is the size of hole in an SPS or certain Bill Hays models?? Is that a secret??
3) If drilled properly will the inside of the fork holes be smooth enough ?? Does that answer depend on my finish?
4) With or without the slit is this whole idea for attachment methods just way to wrong for this fork?
Anything anyone can add will be greatly appreciated.
Yes I know, the camera on my phone