8 replies to this topic

[Bruno529]

I've been working on a natural oak fork that I believe will be a nice shooter if I don't screw it up. Fork heights is 2 in (50 mm), fork diameter 1 1/8th inches (28.5 mm). One is almost perfectly round, the other is slightly elliptical and dimension vary by only 1/16th in ( 1.6 mm ). The width between the forks at the top is 2 1/2 in (64mm). Handle width is from 1 3/8 to 1/ 5/8 in (35-40 mm). Height is @ 7 1/2 (190 mm). It will get shortened some.

As you can see I've been doing some carving. Around the lower part of the forks and along the handle. That is two finger grooves and the beginning of a pinky hole. I will cut it below that at an angle so it stands up and put a lanyard hole on the lowest part. I plan it as a thumb brace finger wrap though the thumb can also be wrapped around. It fits me very nice. I've been taking my time with the carving, literally checking the feel every 30 seconds.

I have yet to start on the fork attachments. I want to make grooves around the top of the forks to support OTT attachments, I also want to put an appropriate size hole in the center of the forks for tubes. To top it off, so to speak, I'd like to put slight grooves/valley across the very tops of the forks for tubes to lay across. I have seen that on a SPS, on some of the Bill Hays models and other slingshots, the hole in the fork is wide enough to support RRT tubes through the hole with a ball in tube method or some other method and is a good size for loose Chinese tubes. I have a bit of Theratube Red which is actually slightly narrower than the RRT tubes, but I would like it to also accommodate Chinese tubes in the future.

Questions are:
1) I assume that the slit on the forks as on Chinese shooters, a SPS and many Bill Hays models which is used to slide the tubes on is out of the question with a natural. So I would have to obviously have to attach looped tubes the hard way, feeding through the hole on the fork first before securing at the pouch. Am I wrong?? Is it possible to make this slit on a thick fork like this and not screw it up??? Would moving the holes off center to leave a thicker section solve strength issues?? Also smoothing the inside of the slit will be a concern as with the inside of the fork holes.

2) What would be the appropriate size hole for the methods I mentioned, a hole large enough to support my Theratube Red through (width 8mm @ 5/16th inch) ?? Someone in chat mentioned their Chines shooter's hole was @ 9mm, but I don't know that they support a fixed tube attachment. What is the size of hole in an SPS or certain Bill Hays models?? Is that a secret??

3) If drilled properly will the inside of the fork holes be smooth enough ?? Does that answer depend on my finish?

4) With or without the slit is this whole idea for attachment methods just way to wrong for this fork?

Anything anyone can add will be greatly appreciated.

Yes I know, the camera on my phone

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[Btoon84]

Have you thought about Gypsy tabs? Look em up if not.

[M.J]

Have you thought about Gypsy tabs? Look em up if not.

Seconded.

[Bruno529]

Have you thought about Gypsy tabs? Look em up if not.

Seconded.

Thank you guys for the suggestion. I do know what gypsy tabs are and have seen videos on how to attach them. I initially did not give it serious consideration and was trying to be as polite as I could in my response as to why........everyone here is so helpful and awesome. Then I realized it does cover both looped tubes and fixed tubes and realized that was likely the reason for the suggestion, my initial assumption being it had to to with fork shape/dimensions. I am now seriously considering it.
My concerns with the tabs are:

1. Will they work with flatbands. I believe I have only seen them with tubes.

2. How is their accuracy compared to flatbands both OTT and TTF and tubes(more concerned with looped Chinese) in both OTT and TTF. Of course my ideas don't cover flats TTF.

3. Though flatband attached in my idea is over the top, the hole in the fork will be 7/16th to 1/2 an inch (10-12mm) from the top, will the gypsy tab attachment add torque...more wrist strain (enough to notice) because it's higher on the fork?

I will consider if for sure, it certainly may be my best choice. I'd still like to hear from others about the concerns I voiced in the original post if you would be so kind.

Edited by Bruno529, 15 July 2012 - 11:12 PM.

[Btoon84]

If you use tabs, u wouldn't necessarily need this hole in the fork you speak of. Just tab to sling OTT and I've seen guys tie flats to tabs. Attatchmet would be pretty much just like tying to a pouch.... if you were so inclined. And as for the wrist strain, the tabs will flow right over the top and back towards you, your fork height will determine your wrist strain, the tabs will add only millimeters of elevation to your forks... Hope this is helping.

Edited by Btoon84, 16 July 2012 - 01:20 AM.

[WILD BILL]

With the size of forks you have there, why not use both methods. Drill the hole for tubes and on the front side (where the tubes first come in contact with wood) make a subtle groove for the tubes to track. A hole for the big tubes (like Daisy or Dub Dub) will work as well for the smaller tubes.

I am just beginning an Oak natural. If the material allows for it, I am planning on "multi-method" tips

Make your attachment configuration on the forks before you reduce the size. This way you can mill the material off and keep an eye on structural integrity.

Care should be made just how subtle and how high on the tips the grooves should be, so as not to interfere with the contact point for flats.

I have used gypsy tabs with flats and although they were accurate and worked great, "tying in" was a pain. Here is a picture of my tabs with flats.

Bill

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Edited by WTBJR, 16 July 2012 - 06:00 AM.

[Bruno529]

If you use tabs, u wouldn't necessarily need this hole in the fork you speak of. Just tab to sling OTT and I've seen guys tie flats to tabs. Attatchmet would be pretty much just like tying to a pouch.... if you were so inclined. And as for the wrist strain, the tabs will flow right over the top and back towards you, your fork height will determine your wrist strain, the tabs will add only millimeters of elevation to your forks... Hope this is helping.

Oh yes it is helping a lot. The one statement is poorly worded on my part , I mentioned the hole when discussing wrist strain implying that the holes were farther down the forks (less strain) as a comparison to tabs on top of the forks. Not meaning I would do both. I really didn't think tabs would add any noticeable strain. Good to know I can use flatbands too.

Bill believes I can do both, which to me means the holes could work. When saying I took tabs seriously I was thinking that if the holes wouldn't work I would use gypsy tabs. I had really thought of putting gypsy tabs on the first natural I made or making another with gypsy tabs in mind. The first natty is shooting pretty nice OTT with 107s so likely I'll make one. I'd really like to see how this works more or less the way I described and I'm sure I could go back and add the tabs later if my original ideas don't work for some reason. The feedback is definitely helping either way since I'll have a slingshot with tabs one way or the other before too long. I don't see my self ever not making slingshots.....unless my arms fall off or something. D:=

Bill the tabs on those pictures seem a bit different from what I've seen before. I like that, I will certainly need to delve deeper into tabs.
All feedback still welcome.

Thanks again, Bruno

[newconvert]

Have you thought about Gypsy tabs? Look em up if not.

Seconded.

+1000

[Bruno529]

Well, stained it with a medium walnut, but that's what I had. Not the best finish, new to this ....BUT it shoots pretty freakin' AWESOME !! So I'm happy.

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