41 replies to this topic

[Flatband]

Hey Frosty,
sorry to hear about your thumb accident. I can attest to what Jim (Performance Catapults) said about his pouch holding style. A lot of credit has to be given to Jim for trying a new hold and then working with it constantly,and then winning a Tournament -all within one year! It is an excellent style and holding method and with a lot of practice you'll be as smooth and as accurate as he is-good luck Bud! Flatband

[Frodo]

Only a few pictures of my new pouch. Thin leather and a pouch influenced by Baumstamm's and Fish's pouch.

 Bandset1.JPG   1.03MB   37 downloads

 Bandset2.JPG   1.14MB   26 downloads

Have fun & good luck frosty!

[mr.joel]

Sorry about your grippage issues, frosty2. On the subject of pouches...I bought a leather jacket for about $10 in an ukay ukay(used clothing) store. I skinned it already and am thinking to stretch the leather on a frame before cutting out the pouches. What do you guys think? Good idea or not? Is this going too far and I'm being ridiculous or is it beneficial? I am sure at minimum this would reduce pouch stretching.

[frosty2]

Just curious. Has anybody tried impregnating the leather right around the pouch holes with epoxy in an effort to make it last longer? I may try that when I get some new leather.
frosty2

[mr.joel]

I think your better off wrapping/sewing a whip stitch around the holes.

[Frodo]

In my opinion leather is not to epensive. It takes me 2 minutes to make a pouch. A pouch (if you make it right and don't use to powerful bands) can last more than

3 bandsets. I never had a ripped pouch.

[mr.joel]

Yes, but if your leather is crap, it will rip, even with weak bands. look for a short nap in the leather as this is the best indicator of long lasting leather. A long nap will indicate it will tear, and besides, I think it might possibly interfere with your release(I go suede side out). Try to use chrome tanned leather, its usually got that color of the Trumark pouches. However be warned, this can often also be junk, hardware store gloves often use this leather but often is not as durable as chrome tanned leather should be. Again, look at the nap: it's you best and sadly only indicator of longevity, other than cuts in the hide made during the skinning process.

[Tex-Shooter]

I have went bback to top grain leather again, even though it will wrinkle a little when bent, but it is very strong. -- Tex

[mr.joel]

Tex-Shooter, on 27 August 2010 - 06:06 AM, said:

I have went bback to top grain leather again, even though it will wrinkle a little when bent, but it is very strong. -- Tex

That's part of why i'm wondering if I should stretch it on a frame, the material will also be more consistent.

[whipcrackdeadbunny]

mr.joel, on 26 August 2010 - 01:34 PM, said:

Sorry about your grippage issues, frosty2. On the subject of pouches...I bought a leather jacket for about $10 in an ukay ukay(used clothing) store. I skinned it already and am thinking to stretch the leather on a frame before cutting out the pouches. What do you guys think? Good idea or not? Is this going too far and I'm being ridiculous or is it beneficial? I am sure at minimum this would reduce pouch stretching.

I've used that leather before, I find the normal jacket leather too thin ('less it's cow-hide) but I doubled one over and sewed the edges, it's been going a long time and is very sensitive, because of the thinness. I don't think you'd need to stretch it first, but you could try.

[whipcrackdeadbunny]

mr.joel, on 26 August 2010 - 04:59 PM, said:

I think your better off wrapping/sewing a whip stitch around the holes.

Does whipping not move around the bands, where an epoxy would stay put?

[whipcrackdeadbunny]

frosty2, on 25 August 2010 - 11:06 AM, said:

Thanks for all the replies. I probably should have said that I don't have a problem with large ammo -- marbles, .45 lead and such, it is 3/8 steel and arrows that give me trouble. I have went with golf tees in place of knocks but they were still hard to grip. I tried large yellow wire nuts but they hit the rest and mess up the flight (Chief AJ HFX). Has anybody ever tried to make a pouch "sticky" on the outside. I have thought about maybe a leather / rubber laminate or impregnating the outside with silicone caulk. Well thanks again and hope all your shots are bulls eyes. frosty2

I had an idea, have you tried pressing the pouch into your palm with your fingers, that might work, but it might make loading hard ... and I'm not sure, I have only just thought about it, but a sticky pouch might open before the release is in a suitable position, resulting in the shot going wild. Not sure though and it's a sound idea.

[frosty2]

whipcrackdeadbunny, on 27 August 2010 - 07:37 AM, said:

frosty2, on 25 August 2010 - 11:06 AM, said:

Thanks for all the replies. I probably should have said that I don't have a problem with large ammo -- marbles, .45 lead and such, it is 3/8 steel and arrows that give me trouble. I have went with golf tees in place of knocks but they were still hard to grip. I tried large yellow wire nuts but they hit the rest and mess up the flight (Chief AJ HFX). Has anybody ever tried to make a pouch "sticky" on the outside. I have thought about maybe a leather / rubber laminate or impregnating the outside with silicone caulk. Well thanks again and hope all your shots are bulls eyes. frosty2

I had an idea, have you tried pressing the pouch into your palm with your fingers, that might work, but it might make loading hard ... and I'm not sure, I have only just thought about it, but a sticky pouch might open before the release is in a suitable position, resulting in the shot going wild. Not sure though and it's a sound idea.

I'll give that a try. See if it affects accuracy.
frosty2

[mr.joel]

whipcrackdeadbunny, on 27 August 2010 - 07:33 AM, said:

mr.joel, on 26 August 2010 - 04:59 PM, said:

I think your better off wrapping/sewing a whip stitch around the holes.

Does whipping not move around the bands, where an epoxy would stay put?

the epoxy would harden and end up cutting the rubber i think, i dont think the whipping would move as the rubber would lock it in place unless possibly you are using chinese tubes

[mr.joel]

whipcrackdeadbunny, on 27 August 2010 - 07:32 AM, said:

mr.joel, on 26 August 2010 - 01:34 PM, said:

Sorry about your grippage issues, frosty2. On the subject of pouches...I bought a leather jacket for about $10 in an ukay ukay(used clothing) store. I skinned it already and am thinking to stretch the leather on a frame before cutting out the pouches. What do you guys think? Good idea or not? Is this going too far and I'm being ridiculous or is it beneficial? I am sure at minimum this would reduce pouch stretching.

I've used that leather before, I find the normal jacket leather too thin ('less it's cow-hide) but I doubled one over and sewed the edges, it's been going a long time and is very sensitive, because of the thinness. I don't think you'd need to stretch it first, but you could try.

I picked the one with the thickest leather and it is cowhide, ended up with a variety of thick and thin. I've noticed the sleeves seem to yield thicker leather on most leather jackets.

[Paul]

mr.joel, on 27 August 2010 - 05:32 AM, said:

Try to use chrome tanned leather...

Yup, that's what I now use. I get it from Oregon Leather, in their scrap barrels.

[ZDP-189]

If they fail, almost all pouches fail at the side of the punch hole. I could beef up that part of the pouch till it is no longer the weakest part of the bandset, but that would cost a little velocity and if a bandset is going to fail, then it's a relatively safe place to fail.

Insteadn what I'd really like is a disclosing thread or another structure similar to the coloured thread in safety harness straps that would show the user when the pouch is beyond it's useful life.