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Testing Chinese Tubes


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#41 pgandy

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 09:38 PM

@Henry the tutorial was what I was referring to.

#42 pgandy

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 09:53 PM

say guy's can you give me some info on what you use to aquire you weight of ammo, and your weight in draw. I've been ask to do some of these and can't, also maybe I can also bother you in how to put in photos .... I've got some real uglys to show ya


This is what I use for draw weight.
http://www.amazon.co...s00_i00_details
Check here for something to weigh your ammo.
http://www.amazon.co...Scale&x=15&y=15

Edited by pgandy, 29 December 2011 - 09:53 PM.


#43 timdix

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 01:37 AM

My 1842 has arrived...squeezed in some brief testing today and it didn't disappoint.
In 29C temp,3/8 steel with a loop then single to give a 2:1 taper,10.5inch long,55-60inch draw: 10 shots averaged 306.3fps,maximum 314.4fps.
This setup seems absolutely perfect for 3/8 steel,more so than 1745.
The 1745 is just as fast but is much harder on my elbow.Thus my choice for such light ammo would be a no brainer. I expect tube life will be shorter than with1745 but I'm hoping it should still be superior to flats.
The 1745 is probably ideally suited to 3/8 lead and slightly heavier.
A trial with a 5.5 inches of 2050 joined to 5.5 inches of 1842 was a let down.

Edited by timdix, 30 December 2011 - 01:49 AM.


#44 Alex Jacob

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 04:03 AM

Many thanks for sharing all your findings, Henry. May the gods of Up-For-It smile upon you.

My favourite catty, Yellowhammer, is a stubby tree-fork with eye-bolts and is the sweetest shooting catty I've come across. Which is why I only have one other as a spare. I like office bands for the simplicity but the best ones are hard to find here. Going to get a big pile of 1842 now.

#45 Dayhiker

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 07:43 AM

Henry, thank you for doing this research. Your writing and presentation are superb! I haven't shot my Jungle Hunter in a year or more for the same reasons. I am now going to make a wooden handle for it and start doing my own experimenting with the 1842's to find my own sweet spot.

Thanks again for all this good info.

#46 Henry the Hermit

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 07:57 AM

I made a brief side trip into the raw power side of tapered 1842. I wanted to see if I could get 200+ fps with .495 lead balls. I got 222 fps (67.7 ms), 19.96 lbs/ft (26.69 joules). I have no doubt there is more power there, but I'm not strong enough to pull past 32 inches without shaking enough to endanger my Chrony. I'll have my son take a crack at it later. This is Mr. Stubby with the double tapered set.



Glad you didn't use my pouch with this setup. I doubt it is strong enough to use safely, as it is not intended to be. It is great to see the exporation you are doing with the tubes however. ;)


JIm, there is no better pouch on the market for its intended use.They last just about forever, and are the perfect size for 3/8 ammo. I love them, but I noticed when I got into the 300 fps range that they tended to wear faster, so I went with some thicker shoe leather for the power bands.

I'll take this opportunity to caution everyone about powerful slingshots. Everything has to be up to the task. Make sure the fork is strong enough and comfortable to hold. Make sure you can hold onto it when you release. Inspect everything often, and especially, wear good eye protection. Also, if you are experiencing frequent fork hits, fix that problem before you explore high power.

#47 Henry the Hermit

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 08:11 AM

Well 330fps with 3/8 lead! Does that out- joule my 338fps with 9mm? Bloody close id say lol, great research mate.., Ben


The 3/8 balls I'm using now are 9.2 mm and weigh 71 grains, so if you're using steel, I have the edge. If yours are lead, it's very close.

#48 Henry the Hermit

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 08:26 AM

Henry, I got to tell ya "Mr. Stubby" is just plain coooooool looking - I think at some point I read here how you installed those eye-bolts if ya wouldn't mind going through it again it would be appreciated.......thanks

had I knew how efficient those 1842 bands were I would have ordered those too, thanks for your info


I used steel eye bolts 3 inches long. I drilled a hole in each fork 2 inches deep, the length of the . The hole is sized so that the bolts screw in with very little force. Then I forced as much 2 part epoxy as i could down the holes and coated the threads on the eye bolts with it. I screwed the bolts in and gave it 24 hours to cure. It is very important not to make the holes too small as that would put radial force from the inside on the forks and the last thing you want is a steel eye bolt hitting you in the face. I tested the eyes by applying 50 pounds of pull with a rope and my fish scale.

#49 Henry the Hermit

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 12:41 PM

The tutorial is now up on my website. Here is a direct link so you don't have to look at the commercial stuff.

http://oldpeddler.co...o/bandset-1842/

Edited by Henry in Panama, 14 September 2012 - 09:39 AM.


#50 Henry the Hermit

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 01:59 PM

There is now a dedicated forum for bands and tubes. I have moved this topic there.

#51 Henry the Hermit

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 04:15 PM

Not surprisingly, the first set of bands on which I kept count failed at 189 shots. I say not surprisingly because most of the shots with that set were drawn to the max. The right side band broke just behind the single side of the loop tie. I've now started shot counts on a new set that has not been abused, shooting at about 240 fps.

I'm also building a cousin to "Mr. Stubby" to keep a shot count on a short loop version. I would appreciate it if the rest of you who are using 1842s would let us know what kind of life you get out of them.

#52 Rayshot

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 04:58 PM

The tutorial is now up on my website. Here is a direct link so you don't have to look at the commercial stuff.

http://oldpeddler.co...o/bandset-1842/


Henry, Marvelous job on the tutorial!!

I have been following this thread and I appreciate the time, experimentation and sharing you have done.

These tutorials are so good for the newbies to have posted as a "sticky". When I first came to this site there was not the dedicated places to find tutorials like this. This is the best stuff...even for us that have been around.

Note: Edited by Henry to change link.

Edited by Henry in Panama, 14 September 2012 - 09:32 AM.


#53 AZshooter

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 10:32 PM

Henry...With a possible problem at the loop connection could it be that the constrictor knot is creating an unusual amount of stress at this point...Would it help to use a bit of contact cement here ( at the connection ), allow it to dry then attach the connection ( with pressure ) ...Over this adding a short section of 1745 tubing...?

#54 pgandy

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 08:34 AM

Thanks again Henry. I appreciate your efforts and time in this project and I am sure it will be helpful to many. Approximately how much force are you applying when stretching the bands during fabrication?

Edited by pgandy, 31 December 2011 - 10:13 AM.


#55 Henry the Hermit

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 08:56 AM

Henry...With a possible problem at the loop connection could it be that the constrictor knot is creating an unusual amount of stress at this point...Would it help to use a bit of contact cement here ( at the connection ), allow it to dry then attach the connection ( with pressure ) ...Over this adding a short section of 1745 tubing...?


I have my doubts that this is a solvable problem, but the contact glue is worth a try. A common characteristic of approaching the upper limits of performance is short band life. Please elaborate on the short section of 1745 addition.

#56 Henry the Hermit

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 08:59 AM

Thanks again Henry. I appreciate your efforts and time in this project and I am sure it will be helpful go many. Approximately how much force are you applying when stretching the bands during fabrication?


I stretch them to near maximum, about 5 times relaxed length. The next time I make a set I will measure the force.

#57 AZshooter

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 10:38 AM

Henry...What I meant about adding the short piece of 1745, was to actually fit ( with narrow pliers ) a 1/4 inch ( or slightly shorter ) section over the area where the loop connects...Neil was doing this type of surgery in the construction of his fixed tubes on his Trophy slingshot...With the contact cemented area under this extra layer of tube, this should make a good connection with less severe stress on the connection point...If it were really necessary you could fix a constrictor knot over this 1/4 inch section of 1745, but I personally would try to avoid to much stress at this point...When I learn how to use this #@%"# computer I`ll try to be more articulate in my explanations ( I might even take a few shots with my #@%"# digital camera if I can learn how to get it on the forum display )...

#58 Henry the Hermit

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 11:17 AM

Henry...What I meant about adding the short piece of 1745, was to actually fit ( with narrow pliers ) a 1/4 inch ( or slightly shorter ) section over the area where the loop connects...Neil was doing this type of surgery in the construction of his fixed tubes on his Trophy slingshot...With the contact cemented area under this extra layer of tube, this should make a good connection with less severe stress on the connection point...If it were really necessary you could fix a constrictor knot over this 1/4 inch section of 1745, but I personally would try to avoid to much stress at this point...When I learn how to use this #@%"# computer I`ll try to be more articulate in my explanations ( I might even take a few shots with my #@%"# digital camera if I can learn how to get it on the forum display )...


OK, I got it. That is the method I use to tie my Theraband tubes and I tried it on the tapered #107s. I'll have to try to figure out a way to expand the reinforcing tube. Maybe the tips ends of my Circlip pliers will work.

#59 AZshooter

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 12:30 PM

Henry...Circlip pliers would be the best choice...I forgot to mention that in Chinese tutorials they would sometimes create a small knot on the end of the tube...When the end of the tube is looped around and secured this might add a little more "grab" when you place the small 1/4inch section of 1745 over it...The knot is made with thread...Thanks again for your ambitious research...

#60 Henry the Hermit

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 09:31 AM

I completed the second longevity test yesterday. Using the 4:3 7 inch long bands, and anchoring below my ear, the right side band broke at the pouch at 355 shots. I retied and got 98 more shots before it broke near the loop tie. Total 453 shots. The shorter draw (28 inches) gave consistent 205-210 fps with 3/8 steel. My son grabbed the slingshot and ripped off about a dozen 300+ fps shots and that may have shortened the life a bit. I can't find my pull weight chart at the moment, but when I get back from the store, I'll redo the pulls of this configuration vs the standard double. I do know that the 3:4 setup has lighter draw and higher velocity than the standard double set.




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