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#229188 Beginner Slingshot Builders Kit

Posted by Hrawk on 28 October 2012 - 10:46 PM

We often get a lot of questions here from newcomers to the sport regarding what they need to get started. I thought I'd put together a quick post for all to see showing just how little an investment is really needed to start making your own quality shooters.

By no way will this be a definitive solution as people have created some awesome shooters with nothing but a small folding pocket knife but I hope some people will find this useful.

They way I see it, the most minimal amount of kit you would need for making board cuts and naturals is as follows:
  • Coping Saw
  • Rasp/s
  • Sandpaper
  • Finish (Optional)


-Coping Saw-

Coping saws are a great option for slingshot making. They are cheap. They can get into the tightest of curves and cut through the hardest of woods (with a bit of patience and elbow grease). The blade can be removed and inserted in a hole for cutting out shapes inside the frame. The blade can also be turned to face any direction for detailed work and ease of cutting. They are available just about anywhere for a small investment. They offer a large enough throat for the biggest of frames yet are capable of turning out even the smallest sized pocket shooter.

Coping Saw @ Harbour Freight $5.99

This particular one comes with a few different blades included, from rough cutting to extremely fine detailed work. I agree that a pruning saw or other hand saw would be better for cutting a natural fork from a tree, this particular saw is more than capable of doing the job.


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-Rasp/s-

Similar in design to a metal file however the teeth are optimised for wood shaping and removal. There are literally hundreds of sizes, styles and tooth patterns available but don't confuse yourself with all the specifics. Your main concern right now is being able to shape the wood to your desired style. Rasps provide a very aggressive cutting action, getting your work done very quickly.

3 Piece Rasp Set @ Harbour Freight $2.99

This great set of rasps is ideal for putting final touches on your projects. The 3/4” flat rasp is designed for general purpose sanding and shaping on flat surfaces. The 7/8” half round rasp is built for flat, concave and convex surfaces. Finally, the 3/8” diameter round rasp is designed for shaving and forming tightly curved wood sections such as finger grooves, pinkie holes and even band grooves..

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-Sandpaper-

I have heard it said time and time again that 90% of any form of woodwork is sanding and yup, it's pretty true. Having used the rasps to cut and mould your wood to shape, you will find the current surface of your project looks a bit ragged and for lack of a better word, crap. This where the sanding begins. Sandpaper is available in different grits, from very coarse to smooth as glass. The lower the grit number, the more aggressive it is at removing material. You will start with a lower grit and progressively move up to achieve the desired finish. After using the rasps you would probably go for a 40 or 80 grit paper, moving on to 120, 240, 360 and sometimes even higher. You will probably find that going to 220/240 is more than satisfactory for a good finish. If you want glassy smoothness, keep sanding :) You want to spend time and make sure that your fork tips are as smooth as possible as this will contribute to band life. Rough forks will wear your bands very quickly. Smooth is good.

Sandpaper is cheap. If you are starting out, grab yourself a couple of sheets of 80, 120 & 220 grit paper.

Sandpaper pack @ Harbour Freight $2.99

This assortment of sandpaper comes with a variety of grits. The assortment includes two sheets of 60 grit, three sheets of 100 grit, three sheets of 150 grit and two sheets of 220 grit aluminum oxide sanding sheets to help you accommodate a variety of jobs! This sandpaper assortment is a great set for any do-it-yourselfer or professional craftsman to smooth metal, finish wood pieces and sand paint away for a clear, clean surface.

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-Finish-

Finishing, oh wow, where do I start. As I mentioned above this can be an optional step in the build however most people like to bring out the best in their choice of wood and give it that bit of extra bling. The options for finishing are endless and mostly come down to personal preference. Here I will list two options that are cheap and easy to do.

The first I will mention is Linseed oil, a personal favourite of mine. Like all the above tools, Linseed oil can be purchased just about anywhere. It is available as a raw or boiled product. Boiled is the preferred option of most as it has a considerably shorted curing (drying) time. Linseed oil can be purchased for only a few dollars. It can be wiped on with a rag/cloth, or your project can be soaked in it for a few hours to a few days. It does take time though, as curing times can be anywhere from a few days to a few weeks to achieve optimum results. It does however do an awesome job of bringing out the beautiful grain and colour in most woods. Linseed oil finish is usually further enhanced by a wax polish to bring out a nice lustre and shine. Expect to pay around $5 for a half litre bottle of boiled Linseed Oil.

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Another option is aerosol based finishes. Once again you have a huge range of options here so I wont go into them all. Probably the most common of these finishes is spray on Polyurethane. Comes in a can just like spray paint and is very easy to apply. Usually you would hang your slingshot up and apply several THIN coats, emphasis on thin. It is very important to ensure that each coat has completely dried before applying the next. For best results it is also best to sand between coats for that super smooth glassy look. Common options here are to use 800 grit sandpaper or even steel wool. Whatever you do, don't try to do it all in one go as you will end up with a thick tacky coat and possibly drip marks. Multiple thin coats is the trick to a great finish. Myself I like to use a spray on marine varnish as this also offers great UV protection against fading. These products also offer the option of a satin, semi gloss or gloss finish. Expect to pay between $5 and $10 for a good spray on finish. One can is usually enough for 2 to 5 frames, depending on number of coats you use.

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Well there you have it. Ignoring the finish for the moment, for an initial outlay of approximately $12 dollars, you are well on your way to building your very own slingshot.

Check out the Templates tab at the top of this forum for some great designs to get you started. Just print them out, glue them to your wood and get started !

If you have found this post helpful, please click the 'Like This' button in the lower right hand side of this post :)


#278101 HDPE sheet

Posted by lexlow on 13 April 2013 - 03:36 PM

Hello again, a simple project here this time, compared to the micarter (well sorta).

 

 

ok, so for those who have found this tutorial and not the micarta one, i'll repeat a few steps from that one.

 

 

HDPE is easy to find, 

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as long as its got the number 2 in the triangle and or it has HDPE (sometimes PEHD) then its good for what we need.

 hdpe melts (not burns or release fumes) at about 180 c.

this stuff can be easily singed at about 220 c i think from experience, although the inside would still be fine. 

step one:

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take your bottle and cut it into pieces roughly 1-2 cm2  and collect. now i'm sure its wrong (knowing me prob by alot) but i think its weighing in at about 1.5grams per cm3 so you can roughly work out how much plastic you will need to collect by working out how big your mould is.

 

step two:

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putt all your HDPE into a metal bowl and place into an oven. switch oven to 190c and as with the micarta heat for about an hour checking twice and turning the bowl. this stuff is the consistency of toffee peeps, so dont think your going to be poring it anywhere! using a metal rod or butter knife etc pry the HDPE from the bowl and place into your mould.

 

step three:

HDPE when cooling wants to twist badly as different parts cool quicker, so i made a block moulder that i could dump the melted HDPE in and form it to a rough block and hold it there.

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here is the area for the plastic, it is contained by 2x2 cm wooden slats into a piece of ply with a side left open for a sliding push bar.

step four:

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once the plastic is sitting roughly inside the three sides of the rig, you can push the lid (peice of ply)

 down and squash it then screw in place.

step five:

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use the push side to further squash the HDPE into the mould, and screw that in place.

 

 

and then leave to cool for around two hours before taking it out.

 coloured pieces can be added into the mix before heating, or even layers of whole coloured plastic, or...... anything heat proof . anyway, hope that gave someone something to do  :-)miniss02.jpg hdpeham ready.jpg




#483440 Waste Not, Want Not

Posted by flippinout on 23 November 2014 - 10:54 AM

Recently while cleaning the shop (my wife strongly encouraged I do so) I was contemplating what to do with all of the bits of wood I have been saving from other projects that were too small to make a slingshot but too large to toss or burn.  After running them through the planer, I glued them all up into a slab and began cutting and re-gluing.

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There were a tremendous variety of woods composed of bamboo, buginga, rosewood(both Honduran and Bolivian), kingwood, cocobolo, sycamore, maple, purpleheart, walnut(black and new guinea), shedua, antique heart pine, reclaimed american chestnut, dogwood, cherry and probably a few more.

 

Having not made a Scout slingshot in hardwoods, I decided to make a go at that design.  The core of the slingshot is made from 3mm carbon fiber and it is finished with Liberon finishing oil.  This one was a fun build!

 

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#503735 The A.N.T.

Posted by flicks on 01 February 2015 - 08:05 AM

Hello slingshot enthusiasts!

 

I've just finished a little slingshot puzzle. ;)  6 layers of 2 mm carbon fiber prepreg plates, finished with 6 layers of clear coat. The result is a full carbon fiber folder with integrated clips. The handle is locked in the opened position.

 

Basically it is a slightly modified 80% sized NightTrain shape. It is designed to fit in an Altoid can, hence the name - Altoid-Night-Train

 

I hope you like it! Thanks for watching!

http://youtu.be/Q7hA1uoScPU

 

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#371281 Let it Bee

Posted by ash on 06 December 2013 - 08:12 PM

I've been learning about bees and wasps lately as they start to accomodate themselves in my bee house. A few of my designs started looking a bit bee-ish, so I decided to name therm Bee, Hornet and Wasp. This is the first prototype of the Bee - Bee P1

 

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The main structure (head, thorax and abdomen?) is 18mm birch plywood picked up off the floor at work. This one was going to be the template, but I changed the design slightly, so I figured I might as well finish this one off to test the shape.

 

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The palm swell section is laminated from Indian rosewood and some kind of spruce from a packing case. Possibly German spruce from a piano crate. There's a sapele spacer and a kauri veneer between the palm swell and the frame.

 

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The whole lot was stained yellow and then sprayed with satin lacquer.

 

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It can shoot looped tubes either OTT or TTF and will take OTT flatbands as well. 

 

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I think this is my favourite boardcut so far and I have a few cunning ideas for it yet. This is another step down the path on my quest for a perfect straight-wrist slingshot.

 

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#203291 Flatband Tips..

Posted by bullseyeben! on 17 July 2012 - 03:33 AM

Gday everyone,
Its often discussed how one makes a good, lasting and powerfull set of flats. Most of us know that light pull bands can be very fast, ammo weight considered; thicker bands shoot heavy ammo faster than thin at same dimensions ie tb blue vs gold. that tapered cuts don't last like straights etc etc..

These things aside I have a few things I always do when cutting a flat rig, as do others I'm sure..so here's a few tips Id like to share, and please give any other ideas if you have any.

1. Always ensure your rotary cutter is Sharp, free of any knicks possibly from contacting a metal ruler when guiding. As knicks in the blade convert to knicks in the bands, that turn into tears in the bands quickly.


2. In relation to the above, I would recommend a aluminium ruler as opposed to steel, preferably with soft rounded edges, to lessen the chance of ruler to blade contact.


3. When making the cut, ensure the cutter is as verticle as possible, as any angle will effectively chamfer or bevel the bands, making the extreme edge of the bands thinner than the bands themself, making them tear much faster. Hope that makes sense..


4. If you cut your own pouches too, use a separate blade.


5. I definetly recommend pouch end tying with the wrap tuck method..and that said, tied off with a lighter or thinner rubber than the bands themself. Ie tb gold bands, tb blue ties..this keeps weight down, and I find less abrasive on the bands.. I cut the tie rubber at 30mm x 5mm, 4 wraps then tuck then 2 wraps, pull through with a saliver dampened string.
Have the bands moderate stretched before commencing this process, and at this moderate stretch, the pouch holes should be similar size.


6. When cutting from a fresh roll of ie tb gold, I take close to 1mm off they're edges, both sides as I've noticed they're factory cutter leaves them infamous knicks mentioned above..


7. Forks must be very smooth, especially when ott tying.. and the first wrap of the ties not too tight..as with pouch end.


8. The heavier the taper, if done, the faster pouch end will wear. Ie: A 25mm fork to 10mm pouch rig will wear at the pouch faster than 10mm straight as the taper stresses the thinner part faster.


9. Try extending your draw.. ie 6 inch bands will usually last a lot less than 9inch, yet speed can be similar but life increased as the bands have the distance to accelerate, with out hard stretching the rubber.


10. Match your ammo wisely to the bands, very light ammo with over powered bands rob life.


I hope this helps some, and please feel free to add to this if I've forgotten anything. :)


#304774 An Orange Giant

Posted by Quercusuber on 14 June 2013 - 07:02 PM

Hello SlingshotForum Friends!!!!

Some months ago, I did a trade with the member and friend Beanflip. Included in the deal, besides some good quality latex and a slingshot made by him, came also a HUGE fork of Osage Orange (Maclura pomifera) for me to carve.

Well, "carve" isn't the appropriate word to use for what happened with this wood piece ...I had to put aside my carving knife and get to work with my little axe. Oh boy!! It was very hard, I tell ya!!! :D

This wood is one of the hardest I've worked until now. Also, the amount of sandpaper that I've spent on this one was the triple of what I normally use. To be honest, sandpaper did a great share of the work.

Well, but in the end, in spite of his massive frame body, I think it turned out a very functional shooter, with a nice design for sideways thumb-support shooting style.

And the grain on this species is absolutely WILD!!! Finished with olive oil and shellac.

Many thanks to you, Beanflip, for such a quality gift!!! I feel I owe you one!!! ;)

Thanks for watching!!!

Q

 

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#571234 "Can-able" :)

Posted by Can-Opener on 04 January 2016 - 09:52 PM

Hello slingshot enthusiast,

  Here is a design I have been playing around with. I like to start by making a prototype of the design in HDPE. I did this and made changes after test shooting the design. Here they are from  the first prototype pictured on the left side of the screen to the final design on the right in black and white HDPE  they look very different to me but if you look closely you can see I started with a pinky hole and symmetrical fork and made slight changes each time. The changes were based on how the frame felt and shot. I like a frame that has easy hand acusition and a couple of my changes were based on that. Silly as it seems one of the changes was becasue I shoot with a lanyard and it was touching the end of my pinky and really bothered me. :) I hope you enjoy seeing how the design elvolved :)

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Once I was happy with the design I proceeded to make a couple of them in G-10 composite. The first one in black and blue with white and orange center is 1" thick and it is my favorite so far :) I made a matching lanyard and she has a woven Dacron pouch made by Sanch which I have yet to test out. I am looking forward to that. I put on some .030 latex tapered 1" to 3/4" my favorite cut and I will shoot 1/2" steel or 5/8" if I feel like working at it. :) I put my makers mark on the shooters side of the sling but those who want to know will see a round divot on the other side and it is a landing spot for secound finger. :) It is an added benefit that it looks cool like a bulleyes thing :)

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The second one is Camo G-10 and she is 3/4" thick. She came out really nice and fills the need for a camo shooter very nicely :)

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All said and done I like my new frames very much. I have put lots of ammo down range with the HDPE prototype and I am looking foreward to enjoying the awesome gripy feel of solid G-10 with these two new ones.

  I hope you enjoy the pictures they will enlarge if you click on them :)

 

                  Kind Regards 

                     Randy

Safety glasses are COOL :)

 

 

 




#516689 Yew: this is "Stratos"

Posted by Bob Fionda on 28 March 2015 - 06:10 PM

Hello slingshooters!

Stratos is made of a one year seasoned yew, carved with knives, chisels, rasps and tons of sand paper up to 2500 grit. The shape is designed for ambidextrous shooters and the grip is easy and safe at the same time. It is lighweight and stylish, the finishing makes the wood's natural beauty and give it a smooth velvety touch, but it does not take away strenght and resiliance to this powerful catapult.

I hope you like it, tips and suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks for watching.

Best regards.

Bob

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#505568 Just for Leeeeee! Black Sheep Rehabilitation Program.

Posted by Lee Silva on 08 February 2015 - 02:46 AM

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Three cheers for "Dayhiker"!!!

Whooowhooo!

 I've been having so much fun designing around the basic "Lil Plinker" Profile for a few months now. A classic shape that shoots brilliantly straight off the bandsaw, has proven it'self to be a perfect starting point for all sorts of fantastic 3-D "Mods"!!!! 

This is one of my favorites. Still very much the "Lil Plinker", only now with a gentle ergonomic "re-curve" as well as a teardrop shaped , polymorph "palm swell", and my "otter " fork tips. All three come together quite well to complement an already fabulous catapult..In this very special case, I could not be more pleased.... cause I'm actually allowing myself to keep this puppy!!! 

I'll post a video with more details later on today.

Have a safe weekend, everybody! 




#413733 My shoes are awesome, but this is a slingshot.

Posted by quarterinmynose on 29 March 2014 - 07:01 AM

Design:

 

Little (Lil'?) Plinker by Dayhiker

 

Materials:

 

G10 core,

Wenge,

Purple heart,

Osage Orange,

Black Walnut,

Some random veneer,

Blue dyed Birch,

Fire wood(some sort of oak I'm pretty sure)

 

I really love the Little Plinker design, so comfortable and just a great compact size.

I played around a bit with an idea I had for laminating.  I think it worked out pretty well.  

The firewood came from a stack me and Noobshooter were collecting for our Shoot out last December.  I noticed some awesomeness going on and just had to set aside a couple pieces for a slinger.

 

Let me know what you think, and thanks for looking.

 

Stay well, and shoot happy!

 

Open these up in a new tab for a much better look.   :nerd:

 

Pic-o-Spam-O!  :excl: 

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#549007 NT 2.0 - Liquid Darkness

Posted by flicks on 30 August 2015 - 12:37 AM

Hi slingshot enthusiasts!

 

I want to show you the next evolution step of the Night Train shape. It is scaled to 90% of the original size. A 6 mm aluminium core is scaled with black pertinax and black and red paper micarta liners and finished with several layers of BLO and wax. On some photos it looks a bit greyish, but in fact it is deep black with dark brown phenolic resin layers in between

 

I did some effort to match it perfectly to my hand. It looks quite "fluid" and organic now. Hence the name. :)

 

The clips and the Allen wrench tool are integrated. The tool is held by a magnet and acts as well as a reference point for my index finger. The three pins at the left fork tip are sights. It was just a test (or a weird idea :rolleyes: ), but for me it works great for distances above 10 meter.

 

Thanks for watching! I hope you like it!

 

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#381304 Starship- XP class

Posted by flippinout on 31 December 2013 - 02:19 PM

Ever since I made a starship for Blue Skeen a few years back, I have wanted to make another one in a similar style.  Here is what I made for Blue... a clone of his 'Long Tom' design.

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Ever since I made that one, I have always wanted to take that design and emulate a pistol I have always admired- The Remington XP-100.

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Well, after two years of putting this project on the back burner, I took a day off from my regular responsibilites to create this variant of the 'Long Tom XP-100'.  It is a tack driver to say the least...

 

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The main body of the slingshot is made from SpectraPly.  The forks are 3/8" thick G10.  All of the red material is DymaLux and the buttcap on the handle is honduran rosewood burl and carbon fiber accents on the arm rest.

 

This slingshot is NOT for sale.

 

Squirrels... BEWARE!!

 




#552154 Cará

Posted by Poiema on 15 September 2015 - 10:16 AM

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Arctostaphylos punges. Pointleaf Manzanita. An evergreen shrub.

 
Not the best wood for impressive grain patterns. What I like most is the glossy smooth, mahogany red bark.
 

This slingshot frame has gone though several name transformations. :blush: A major case of indecisiveness! It’s a girl thing —I think. But for the purpose of this thread, I have finally settled for Chará. Joy. My utmost thanks to the creative and influential ancient Greeks for this beautiful word.

 
I collected THIS fork many moons ago, while my Weim and I chased storms and played in the rain one Sunday. It was a fork with a lot of issues... Who would want it, I thought. But I loved it, so I chose to gift myself with the task of shaping it. I hoped it would become something pretty later. So I set it aside, waiting to collect a few more hand tools before beginning the work.
 
The base is very stable. bi-regular for tips. I forgot to measure this frame before sending it off to a good home. Just slightly taller and wider than a Scout, if I remember correctly. Not big, but not small.
 
My hands only.  Coping saw. A carving knife. Carving files. And my first experience with micro-mesh and boiled linseed oil. I’m not quite pleased with the yellowish tones. I think poor photography skills make it worse. But I’m still exploring oils and finishing techniques —a whole bunch of stuff actually.
 
Thank you for allowing me to share this tiny drop of soul in an sea of mystery, delight, and wonder.
 
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#506539 Pretty Boy Floyd (pic heavy)

Posted by DougDynasty on 11 February 2015 - 02:51 AM

Hey everybody I wanted to post this one to show y'all what I believe to be my very best work yet. I think this is my best so far. I really hope y'all enjoy it as much as me because all of yall inspire me . I worked really hard on this one and wow does it fit my hand perfect. It's balanced perfectly and feels amazing to hold. It's curly maple and bicoti with aluminum. I kniw it's a lit of pics but I hope y'all like it. Thanks! D.D.Screenshot_2015-02-10-21-07-21-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-21-07-59-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-19-15-53-2.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-19-13-51-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-19-10-56-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-19-12-14-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-59-31-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-58-34-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-55-43-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-54-40-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-54-11-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-47-26-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-50-51-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-49-42-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-52-56-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-57-31-1.png


#568529 Antler kirinite hybrid

Posted by PrideProducts on 21 December 2015 - 05:40 PM

Hi guys
Here is one of my most successful experiments, a over sized antler fork infused with polyurethane resin with a lovely iridescent green and black colour pattern in it.
Hope you guys like it All the best
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Oh and here is the behemoth it came from haha
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From Lewis

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk


#403225 "Time Traveler" a Slingshot from the future

Posted by Can-Opener on 26 February 2014 - 09:40 AM

Hi fellow Slingshot enthusiast,
Here is my fantasy Slinshot. I wanted to make a slingshot that looked like something from the future. I wanted it to be very functional. I was thinking of my German friend who can not have wrist brace slingshots so I wanted to push it out as far as I could without wrist brace. I wanted a thick handle because it is more comfortable. I also prefer remove-able scales so I can fix or replace damaged scales,or change them to fit my mood. I like low fork tips and these are definitely low down. I like the platform because it give a reference to line up the bands with when shooting. I also get comfort from having my hand protected. With this design I can add taller fork tips if I like and I already have an extended model with a wrist brace about half done. It could be deemed a mini starship if you please. This frame is made from aluminum and the handle scales are elm burl I stabilized with the cactus juice. All the screws are stainless steel. I am very pleased with the way it looks and shoots. I hope you enjoy looking :)

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#240734 As Tie, Bands Or Tubes "style Chepo69"

Posted by Chepo69 on 12 December 2012 - 12:19 AM

4º block images

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Hrawk thank you very much!


#125829 Slingshot Glossary and Slang

Posted by Flatband on 10 October 2011 - 04:23 PM

Here's a glossary of common terms used in the slingshot sport. There are some slang words too. I think this may help some of the newcomers figure out what we are talking about. Every sport has them and Slingshooting is no different. I know I missed a few so let me know and we'll add them in. Here's a few:

  • Catapult, Catty,Cutty,Gutty, Beanflip, Shanghai, Resorta, Flip, Ging, Tirachina, Schlueder, Fionda, Gomero-a few names for slingshots
  • Prongs, forks, branches = the two structures that form the "V"
  • Throat, crotch, yoke = the opening between the "V"
  • Frame = the body of the slingshot
  • Anchor point = The spot usually around the cheek or corner of the mouth where the pouch lands when it's pulled back.
  • Draw = the distance bands are pulled back to the anchor point
  • Lam or Laminate frame = Slingshot carved from a multilayered board
  • Traditional fork = any slingshot without a brace
  • PFS or Pickle Fork Shooter = a very shallow throated,small,thin slingshot
  • Tree Fork = a slingshot made from a "V" formed tree branch-Also called a natural fork
  • SB'S- Steel Balls- Slingshot ammo of choice
  • BB's Small Round Ammo used for BB Guns and also as a load in a pouch
  • "A Load" Shooting more then one pellet in a pouch
  • 107's- Pale crepe Rubber bands made by Alliance. Dimensions 5/8" x 7". Decent flatbands already cut. 107 is the size designation.
  • Tubes = tubular rubber
  • 1745-2040-3060- These are popular thin tube numerical designations.Different numbers correspond to different diameters. These are Dankung numbers. Good tubes!
  • Chinese tubes = thin tubes
  • Looped Chinese Tubes- no prong connection on this set-up.Tubes are one piece looped through a fork hole-then the ends are connected normally to pouch.Tubes can be added for more power and speed-just make bigger or more pouch holes for the ends
  • Flats, flatbands, straps = flat cut rubber
  • Cubes = quadrangular-square rubber
  • Chains,Ganged Bands= School or office type bands chained or looped all together and attached to the pouch. Very Powerful set-up.
  • Psuedo Tapers= A method of getting the benefit of tapering without the cutting of a taper. It involves the use of two different sizes of bands or tubes. Bigger or thicker band or tube up front,smaller attached to it a half or third of the way from the pouch tie.
  • Gauge = the thickness of flat rubber, the thickness of tube walls
  • Board cut = a slingshot cut from a board- note: can also be used to denote a slingshot cut from any other material not only wood-I.E ,Plastic slab-metal slab-fibreglass etc.
  • FlatNat = a natural tree fork planed down to a uniform thickness like a board cut slingshot
  • Bareback = using no slingshot at all to shoot. Holding the bands and pouch and drawing back and releasing using only the hand as the fork.
  • Beavertail = a flattened protrusion extending out from the handle covering the web of your hand (space between thumb and index finger ) used mostly on Hammer (Pistol grip)designs.Lessens wrist strain and adds protection from errant shots.
  • Ergo = a board cut slingshot shaped to fit the hand
  • Slingbow= A regular slingshot customized to shoot arrows
  • Flechette= small dart type projectiles used with a slings bow
  • Whiskerbiscuit= a small round brushlike device to center/hold an arrow in the throat of a sling bow. Also helps keeping the feathers or fins of the arrow from getting damaged 
  • Cant= the angle that the slingshot is held at. 45 degree, 90 degree, etc.
  • Finger braced = a gripping method where you brace the index finger and the thumb up against the forks for more support
  • Pistol grip = a grip where you don't brace the fingers up against the forks
  • Hammer Grip = same as Pistol Grip
  • Gangsta Style = Horizontal frame hold, Parallel to ground
  • Over the top ( OTT ) = a band set-up that allows the bands to fly over the top of the forks
  • Knuckle Knock = sometimes the pouch on an over the top set-up comes back and slaps you in the knuckles
  • Through the throat (TTT), through the fork = a band set-up that allows the bands to go through the "V' opening or throat
  • Speed Bump Effect= When the pouch is jerked by too hard of a grip or too much pressure on the pouch on one side upon release. Causing the ammo to jump like a car going over a speed bump. Many a fork hit is caused by this action. Also when holding the pouch horizontally with the thumb held pushing up rather then straight-creates a bump for the ball to go over.(thumb being the bump) Some people say twisting the pouch this way reduces fork hits especially shooting PFS style.
  • Chrony = a device that's used to measure speed(usually in Feet per second)
  • Speed Shooting = loading and shooting as fast as you can put ammo on target. Term also used for shooting for high speeds over a Chrony
  • Snap Shooting = a super fast draw and release popular with hunters(for obvious reasons) and also shooting for high speeds over a Chrony
  • Hysterisis = A condition that happens with rubber when it's stretched and held for too long causing a loss in velocity
  • F.P.S. = a velocity designation, Feet Per Second
  • Starship = slang term for a wrist-braced extended fork slingshot
  • Shuttle Craft= Any smaller standard wrist braced slingshot
  • Dry shot = shooting a pouch empty (DO NOT DO!!!)
  • RTS= Return To Sender shot. Sometimes on high speed set-ups,after the shot is released it may not release clean and come back at you-NOT FUNNY!
  • Chinese Handcuff = a method for putting tubes on the forks(round metal) where the tips are moistened and the tubes are slipped on. When dry,the action of pulling back the sling tightens the tube-prong connection so they won't come off
  • Pre-stressing = stretching the rubber before tying on to a pouch or a post. Reduces pouch curl on a pouch connection and makes a more secure attachment at the posts for a non-"Chinese" attachment
  • African Wrap = a method of attaching rubber to the posts where the rubber is run down the front of the posts to the base of the prongs. Leather strips or strong cord is wrapped all the way around and up until it reaches the tops of the posts. A very secure way but a long band is needed
  • Spanish or Spain Attachment = A method of attaching rubbers to the forks where by holes are drilled down into the posts,then small leather strips or strong nylon cords(both ends) are pressed down into the hole forming a small loop. Toothpicks or other wedging material is forced into the hole with the addition of a strong wood glue. The rubbers are attached to the loop when the glue is dry. Make sure the loop is securely anchored before shooting.
  • Gypsy Tabs = Leather or other suitable material attached to the prongs which bands are attached to. Makes them last longer-popular in some European countries.
  • Cupped pouch or dimpled pouch = a pouch that has a cup in the center for ammo placement
  • Double cupped pouch = a pouch that has a cup on each side of the pouch for ammo placement (also good for loads)
  • Pouch slap, band slap = the assembly slaps or hits the post when going through the throat.It also rubs a little on an over the top set-up but not as much.
  • Center punched = a hole right in the middle of the pouch for ammo placement
  • 3 hole pouch = like a center punched pouch but the center hole is the same size as the band holes. It is a self centering type pouch
  • Ventilated pouch = a series of holes(5-10) punched in a pouch to reduce air drag and lessen weight
  • Wings = The ends of a flat strap assembly that come through the pouch hole after tying. Also same thing with a tube set tied in this fashion
  • Trough= when folding the band over itself and running it through the pouch hole-the resulting valley created by the fold in the band is this
  • Hole in Tube, Hole in Strap = the pouch connection on a tube assembly where a small hole is made close to the end of the tube.The tube is then feed through the pouch hole and into the tube hole making the attachment.Probably the most popular method of tube to pouch connection. Also was done in the past on flat strap assemblies (not as good on flats)
  • Flier = a wild shot, not going where intended
  • Group or grouping = a specified number of shots at a specific distance(shots are measured to see how close they are
  • A slotted attachment or Matchstick method = A thin cut is made in the top of the post. The end of the rubber is folded over about 1 inch and stretched to fit in the slot.The addition of a matchstick in the loop or a rubber piece aids in securing it
  • Double slotted attachment = two thin cuts are made in the top of the post. Rubber is stretched to fit into the slot nearest the throat first,then stretched around to fit in the outer slot. The rubber is then pulled tight to seat up against the fork. A popular method used on older wooden slingshots(Wham-o, Lohman, Bullseye Etc.)
  • Catch box = a cardboard box or other material with an opening in the front and rags, old t-shirts, or towels hanging behind the opening to catch ammo shot at a hanging target in the front of the box
  • Straight set = A straight cut band assembly
  • Tapered bands or tapered tubes = Rubber cut with a wide end for the post and a narrow end for the pouch.Gives more speed then a straight cut
  • Gauge Taper = On sheet rubber sometimes the sheet is thicker on one end then the other.
  • Double Taper = On some flat rubber the rubber sheet itself is tapered(Gauge Taper). One end is thicker then the other. If bands are cut properly from this type sheet, you can get a double taper-thickness of the rubber plus the width. Thin and narrow end at pouch, thick and wide end at forks. A very fast high performing set of bands possible with this cut
  • Psuedo Taper= A tapering method used with tubes and flats where two different size tubes or flatbands are tied ( I.E.-soft cotton string-elasticized cotton covered braiding) together keeping the larger band or tube up at the prong and the smaller tube or flat at the back ( pouch connection ) an alternative way of making a tapered set-up without cutting.
  • A Shoot = A slingshot Tournament or a gathering of slingshot shooters
  • Flippers Draw, Albatross style, or Butterfly Draw = A drawing style. It is popular in the Czech Republic and also used by old timers down in the south U.S.A. The pouch is drawn up from the waist and at the same time the the frame holding hand is pushed out as far as possible, the pouch is drawn back well behind the normal anchor point. Aim is by feel and a lot of practice.A very difficult style but great speeds are possible because of the extra long draw
  • Rotating Prongs = a movable or rotating attachment at posts,especially helpful with tubes.Helps them last longer and gives more speed
  • Palm Knob, Heel Knob, Palm Swell = a swell at the bottom of the handle of some slingshots (can also be a swell in the middle too). Aids in gripping and in security
  • "Missed by that much" = An exclamation used by all slingshooters!

There are more terms but it's supper time for me!!!! Flatband:D




#475100 The Night Train - blink blink, bye bye

Posted by flicks on 26 October 2014 - 08:21 AM

Hello slingshot enthusiasts!

Lately, I've played around with a black 20mm HDPE board and that is the result - the Night Train.

I wanted to get rid of the typical poly look, so I've sanded and flamed it for a matte, charcoal black surface. My aim was not to get a even and smooth surface, but something that looks more like forged black steel with scars and marks.

 

I've added one piece integrated clips and a build-in allen screw tool. The steel parts are blue flamed to match the dark look of the frame.

Not a shiny and blinky one, but a tough slingshot, which can take rough treatment or a fork hit without without problems.

 

I hope you like it.

 

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