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#371281 Let it Bee

Posted by ash on 06 December 2013 - 08:12 PM

I've been learning about bees and wasps lately as they start to accomodate themselves in my bee house. A few of my designs started looking a bit bee-ish, so I decided to name therm Bee, Hornet and Wasp. This is the first prototype of the Bee - Bee P1

 

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The main structure (head, thorax and abdomen?) is 18mm birch plywood picked up off the floor at work. This one was going to be the template, but I changed the design slightly, so I figured I might as well finish this one off to test the shape.

 

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The palm swell section is laminated from Indian rosewood and some kind of spruce from a packing case. Possibly German spruce from a piano crate. There's a sapele spacer and a kauri veneer between the palm swell and the frame.

 

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The whole lot was stained yellow and then sprayed with satin lacquer.

 

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It can shoot looped tubes either OTT or TTF and will take OTT flatbands as well. 

 

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I think this is my favourite boardcut so far and I have a few cunning ideas for it yet. This is another step down the path on my quest for a perfect straight-wrist slingshot.

 

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#203291 Flatband Tips..

Posted by bullseyeben! on 17 July 2012 - 03:33 AM

Gday everyone,
Its often discussed how one makes a good, lasting and powerfull set of flats. Most of us know that light pull bands can be very fast, ammo weight considered; thicker bands shoot heavy ammo faster than thin at same dimensions ie tb blue vs gold. that tapered cuts don't last like straights etc etc..

These things aside I have a few things I always do when cutting a flat rig, as do others I'm sure..so here's a few tips Id like to share, and please give any other ideas if you have any.

1. Always ensure your rotary cutter is Sharp, free of any knicks possibly from contacting a metal ruler when guiding. As knicks in the blade convert to knicks in the bands, that turn into tears in the bands quickly.


2. In relation to the above, I would recommend a aluminium ruler as opposed to steel, preferably with soft rounded edges, to lessen the chance of ruler to blade contact.


3. When making the cut, ensure the cutter is as verticle as possible, as any angle will effectively chamfer or bevel the bands, making the extreme edge of the bands thinner than the bands themself, making them tear much faster. Hope that makes sense..


4. If you cut your own pouches too, use a separate blade.


5. I definetly recommend pouch end tying with the wrap tuck method..and that said, tied off with a lighter or thinner rubber than the bands themself. Ie tb gold bands, tb blue ties..this keeps weight down, and I find less abrasive on the bands.. I cut the tie rubber at 30mm x 5mm, 4 wraps then tuck then 2 wraps, pull through with a saliver dampened string.
Have the bands moderate stretched before commencing this process, and at this moderate stretch, the pouch holes should be similar size.


6. When cutting from a fresh roll of ie tb gold, I take close to 1mm off they're edges, both sides as I've noticed they're factory cutter leaves them infamous knicks mentioned above..


7. Forks must be very smooth, especially when ott tying.. and the first wrap of the ties not too tight..as with pouch end.


8. The heavier the taper, if done, the faster pouch end will wear. Ie: A 25mm fork to 10mm pouch rig will wear at the pouch faster than 10mm straight as the taper stresses the thinner part faster.


9. Try extending your draw.. ie 6 inch bands will usually last a lot less than 9inch, yet speed can be similar but life increased as the bands have the distance to accelerate, with out hard stretching the rubber.


10. Match your ammo wisely to the bands, very light ammo with over powered bands rob life.


I hope this helps some, and please feel free to add to this if I've forgotten anything. :)


#278101 HDPE sheet

Posted by lexlow on 13 April 2013 - 03:36 PM

Hello again, a simple project here this time, compared to the micarter (well sorta).

 

 

ok, so for those who have found this tutorial and not the micarta one, i'll repeat a few steps from that one.

 

 

HDPE is easy to find, 

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as long as its got the number 2 in the triangle and or it has HDPE (sometimes PEHD) then its good for what we need.

 hdpe melts (not burns or release fumes) at about 180 c.

this stuff can be easily singed at about 220 c i think from experience, although the inside would still be fine. 

step one:

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take your bottle and cut it into pieces roughly 1-2 cm2  and collect. now i'm sure its wrong (knowing me prob by alot) but i think its weighing in at about 1.5grams per cm3 so you can roughly work out how much plastic you will need to collect by working out how big your mould is.

 

step two:

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putt all your HDPE into a metal bowl and place into an oven. switch oven to 190c and as with the micarta heat for about an hour checking twice and turning the bowl. this stuff is the consistency of toffee peeps, so dont think your going to be poring it anywhere! using a metal rod or butter knife etc pry the HDPE from the bowl and place into your mould.

 

step three:

HDPE when cooling wants to twist badly as different parts cool quicker, so i made a block moulder that i could dump the melted HDPE in and form it to a rough block and hold it there.

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here is the area for the plastic, it is contained by 2x2 cm wooden slats into a piece of ply with a side left open for a sliding push bar.

step four:

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once the plastic is sitting roughly inside the three sides of the rig, you can push the lid (peice of ply)

 down and squash it then screw in place.

step five:

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use the push side to further squash the HDPE into the mould, and screw that in place.

 

 

and then leave to cool for around two hours before taking it out.

 coloured pieces can be added into the mix before heating, or even layers of whole coloured plastic, or...... anything heat proof . anyway, hope that gave someone something to do  :-)miniss02.jpg hdpeham ready.jpg




#229188 Beginner Slingshot Builders Kit

Posted by Hrawk on 28 October 2012 - 10:46 PM

We often get a lot of questions here from newcomers to the sport regarding what they need to get started. I thought I'd put together a quick post for all to see showing just how little an investment is really needed to start making your own quality shooters.

By no way will this be a definitive solution as people have created some awesome shooters with nothing but a small folding pocket knife but I hope some people will find this useful.

They way I see it, the most minimal amount of kit you would need for making board cuts and naturals is as follows:
  • Coping Saw
  • Rasp/s
  • Sandpaper
  • Finish (Optional)


-Coping Saw-

Coping saws are a great option for slingshot making. They are cheap. They can get into the tightest of curves and cut through the hardest of woods (with a bit of patience and elbow grease). The blade can be removed and inserted in a hole for cutting out shapes inside the frame. The blade can also be turned to face any direction for detailed work and ease of cutting. They are available just about anywhere for a small investment. They offer a large enough throat for the biggest of frames yet are capable of turning out even the smallest sized pocket shooter.

Coping Saw @ Harbour Freight $5.99

This particular one comes with a few different blades included, from rough cutting to extremely fine detailed work. I agree that a pruning saw or other hand saw would be better for cutting a natural fork from a tree, this particular saw is more than capable of doing the job.


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-Rasp/s-

Similar in design to a metal file however the teeth are optimised for wood shaping and removal. There are literally hundreds of sizes, styles and tooth patterns available but don't confuse yourself with all the specifics. Your main concern right now is being able to shape the wood to your desired style. Rasps provide a very aggressive cutting action, getting your work done very quickly.

3 Piece Rasp Set @ Harbour Freight $2.99

This great set of rasps is ideal for putting final touches on your projects. The 3/4” flat rasp is designed for general purpose sanding and shaping on flat surfaces. The 7/8” half round rasp is built for flat, concave and convex surfaces. Finally, the 3/8” diameter round rasp is designed for shaving and forming tightly curved wood sections such as finger grooves, pinkie holes and even band grooves..

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-Sandpaper-

I have heard it said time and time again that 90% of any form of woodwork is sanding and yup, it's pretty true. Having used the rasps to cut and mould your wood to shape, you will find the current surface of your project looks a bit ragged and for lack of a better word, crap. This where the sanding begins. Sandpaper is available in different grits, from very coarse to smooth as glass. The lower the grit number, the more aggressive it is at removing material. You will start with a lower grit and progressively move up to achieve the desired finish. After using the rasps you would probably go for a 40 or 80 grit paper, moving on to 120, 240, 360 and sometimes even higher. You will probably find that going to 220/240 is more than satisfactory for a good finish. If you want glassy smoothness, keep sanding :) You want to spend time and make sure that your fork tips are as smooth as possible as this will contribute to band life. Rough forks will wear your bands very quickly. Smooth is good.

Sandpaper is cheap. If you are starting out, grab yourself a couple of sheets of 80, 120 & 220 grit paper.

Sandpaper pack @ Harbour Freight $2.99

This assortment of sandpaper comes with a variety of grits. The assortment includes two sheets of 60 grit, three sheets of 100 grit, three sheets of 150 grit and two sheets of 220 grit aluminum oxide sanding sheets to help you accommodate a variety of jobs! This sandpaper assortment is a great set for any do-it-yourselfer or professional craftsman to smooth metal, finish wood pieces and sand paint away for a clear, clean surface.

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-Finish-

Finishing, oh wow, where do I start. As I mentioned above this can be an optional step in the build however most people like to bring out the best in their choice of wood and give it that bit of extra bling. The options for finishing are endless and mostly come down to personal preference. Here I will list two options that are cheap and easy to do.

The first I will mention is Linseed oil, a personal favourite of mine. Like all the above tools, Linseed oil can be purchased just about anywhere. It is available as a raw or boiled product. Boiled is the preferred option of most as it has a considerably shorted curing (drying) time. Linseed oil can be purchased for only a few dollars. It can be wiped on with a rag/cloth, or your project can be soaked in it for a few hours to a few days. It does take time though, as curing times can be anywhere from a few days to a few weeks to achieve optimum results. It does however do an awesome job of bringing out the beautiful grain and colour in most woods. Linseed oil finish is usually further enhanced by a wax polish to bring out a nice lustre and shine. Expect to pay around $5 for a half litre bottle of boiled Linseed Oil.

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Another option is aerosol based finishes. Once again you have a huge range of options here so I wont go into them all. Probably the most common of these finishes is spray on Polyurethane. Comes in a can just like spray paint and is very easy to apply. Usually you would hang your slingshot up and apply several THIN coats, emphasis on thin. It is very important to ensure that each coat has completely dried before applying the next. For best results it is also best to sand between coats for that super smooth glassy look. Common options here are to use 800 grit sandpaper or even steel wool. Whatever you do, don't try to do it all in one go as you will end up with a thick tacky coat and possibly drip marks. Multiple thin coats is the trick to a great finish. Myself I like to use a spray on marine varnish as this also offers great UV protection against fading. These products also offer the option of a satin, semi gloss or gloss finish. Expect to pay between $5 and $10 for a good spray on finish. One can is usually enough for 2 to 5 frames, depending on number of coats you use.

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Well there you have it. Ignoring the finish for the moment, for an initial outlay of approximately $12 dollars, you are well on your way to building your very own slingshot.

Check out the Templates tab at the top of this forum for some great designs to get you started. Just print them out, glue them to your wood and get started !

If you have found this post helpful, please click the 'Like This' button in the lower right hand side of this post :)


#413733 My shoes are awesome, but this is a slingshot.

Posted by quarterinmynose on 29 March 2014 - 07:01 AM

Design:

 

Little (Lil'?) Plinker by Dayhiker

 

Materials:

 

G10 core,

Wenge,

Purple heart,

Osage Orange,

Black Walnut,

Some random veneer,

Blue dyed Birch,

Fire wood(some sort of oak I'm pretty sure)

 

I really love the Little Plinker design, so comfortable and just a great compact size.

I played around a bit with an idea I had for laminating.  I think it worked out pretty well.  

The firewood came from a stack me and Noobshooter were collecting for our Shoot out last December.  I noticed some awesomeness going on and just had to set aside a couple pieces for a slinger.

 

Let me know what you think, and thanks for looking.

 

Stay well, and shoot happy!

 

Open these up in a new tab for a much better look.   :nerd:

 

Pic-o-Spam-O!  :excl: 

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#381304 Starship- XP class

Posted by flippinout on 31 December 2013 - 02:19 PM

Ever since I made a starship for Blue Skeen a few years back, I have wanted to make another one in a similar style.  Here is what I made for Blue... a clone of his 'Long Tom' design.

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Ever since I made that one, I have always wanted to take that design and emulate a pistol I have always admired- The Remington XP-100.

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Well, after two years of putting this project on the back burner, I took a day off from my regular responsibilites to create this variant of the 'Long Tom XP-100'.  It is a tack driver to say the least...

 

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The main body of the slingshot is made from SpectraPly.  The forks are 3/8" thick G10.  All of the red material is DymaLux and the buttcap on the handle is honduran rosewood burl and carbon fiber accents on the arm rest.

 

This slingshot is NOT for sale.

 

Squirrels... BEWARE!!

 




#403225 "Time Traveler" a Slingshot from the future

Posted by Can-Opener on 26 February 2014 - 09:40 AM

Hi fellow Slingshot enthusiast,
Here is my fantasy Slinshot. I wanted to make a slingshot that looked like something from the future. I wanted it to be very functional. I was thinking of my German friend who can not have wrist brace slingshots so I wanted to push it out as far as I could without wrist brace. I wanted a thick handle because it is more comfortable. I also prefer remove-able scales so I can fix or replace damaged scales,or change them to fit my mood. I like low fork tips and these are definitely low down. I like the platform because it give a reference to line up the bands with when shooting. I also get comfort from having my hand protected. With this design I can add taller fork tips if I like and I already have an extended model with a wrist brace about half done. It could be deemed a mini starship if you please. This frame is made from aluminum and the handle scales are elm burl I stabilized with the cactus juice. All the screws are stainless steel. I am very pleased with the way it looks and shoots. I hope you enjoy looking :)

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#304774 An Orange Giant

Posted by Quercusuber on 14 June 2013 - 07:02 PM

Hello SlingshotForum Friends!!!!

Some months ago, I did a trade with the member and friend Beanflip. Included in the deal, besides some good quality latex and a slingshot made by him, came also a HUGE fork of Osage Orange (Maclura pomifera) for me to carve.

Well, "carve" isn't the appropriate word to use for what happened with this wood piece ...I had to put aside my carving knife and get to work with my little axe. Oh boy!! It was very hard, I tell ya!!! :D

This wood is one of the hardest I've worked until now. Also, the amount of sandpaper that I've spent on this one was the triple of what I normally use. To be honest, sandpaper did a great share of the work.

Well, but in the end, in spite of his massive frame body, I think it turned out a very functional shooter, with a nice design for sideways thumb-support shooting style.

And the grain on this species is absolutely WILD!!! Finished with olive oil and shellac.

Many thanks to you, Beanflip, for such a quality gift!!! I feel I owe you one!!! ;)

Thanks for watching!!!

Q

 

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#413951 "The Vision" a wearable slingshot : )

Posted by Can-Opener on 29 March 2014 - 07:19 PM

Hi guys,
Here is my extended fork wearable arm brace slingshot. The arm brace was very challenging to figure out and held up the project a bit. I am very pleased with the results. With the slingshot in hand you can twist your wrist and be in and out of the brace in seconds. If you are wondering how I bent the brace the answer is I did not bend anything I will leave it at that for a bit. The tricky part for the brace is it is adjusted to fit the arm so nicely that it needs no padding. After I play with it a bit it is warm and inviting to hold. It is made to fit me and I think any one who makes this style will quickly understand it has to be fit to the user.

Here is field change without tools band clips!!!!The clamp knobs are brass. The handle scales are stabilized boxelder burl. It is a very accurate shooter!!!! It is hard to fit in my pocket. :) Perhaps a sling! :)

I hope you all armbrace this concept! It will be very nice on many frame styles. :)

I hope you are entertained for a while!!! :) Thanks for looking!!!! :)

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#296141 A Few of my Favorite Things

Posted by flippinout on 23 May 2013 - 10:44 AM

I have a favorite knife that I carry nearly everyday.  Good steel, compact size, made to fit my hand.  I love it.

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I have a favorite natural slingshot.  It has taken more squirrels than I can count, fits my hand perfect and I love it.

 

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So the next logical step is to fuse the two into one:

 

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The blade is held within the forks with neodynium magnets.  The kangaroo hide lanyard locks everything in place for solid shooting.  The core of the slingshot is comprised of three layers of canvas and linen micarta.  The faces are osage orange with purpleheart spacers.  The bolsters are made from G10 and vulcanized fiber.  This was a personal challenge and a concept that had been on the drawing board for a few years.  It was one of the more challenging builds I have undertaken.

 

Stay tuned for part two when I build one with a damascus blade made by Lee Silva of Black Sheep Forge!!

 

.... and don't ask if it is for sale, this one will be passed down to the grandchildren some day.




#475100 The Night Train - blink blink, bye bye

Posted by flicks on 26 October 2014 - 08:21 AM

Hello slingshot enthusiasts!

Lately, I've played around with a black 20mm HDPE board and that is the result - the Night Train.

I wanted to get rid of the typical poly look, so I've sanded and flamed it for a matte, charcoal black surface. My aim was not to get a even and smooth surface, but something that looks more like forged black steel with scars and marks.

 

I've added one piece integrated clips and a build-in allen screw tool. The steel parts are blue flamed to match the dark look of the frame.

Not a shiny and blinky one, but a tough slingshot, which can take rough treatment or a fork hit without without problems.

 

I hope you like it.

 

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#373533 Aluminum Caymanite Slinger

Posted by Dr J on 12 December 2013 - 04:58 PM

Many moons ago I did a trade with Trax, he sent me two aluminum  forks, I sent him two large slabs of Caymanite. The Aluminum was not finished as shown in the photo below. I could not decide how to finish them, however, the silient Santa thread gave me an idea.
I learned a lot about working with Aluminum, it is soft and scratches easily. Polish completely before putting on the scales. The next one will have a florentine finish which would not show scratches  as easily. I am not 100 % pleased with my effort but it is passable.
It is easily the most balanced SS frame I have held to date. Comments welcome!

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#240734 As Tie, Bands Or Tubes "style Chepo69"

Posted by Chepo69 on 12 December 2012 - 12:19 AM

4º block images

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Hrawk thank you very much!


#391993 Tiny Turtle

Posted by Can-Opener on 29 January 2014 - 09:34 AM

This is my latest I call her the “Tiny Turtle” She is made from ½” aluminum and dressed up with a tortoise shell scale. I only put the scale on one side for a palm swell. The front side I just put on a nice comfortable radius. On the scale side I put a heavy radius in the finger grip area. By using my channel lock band clamps I avoid having to grip on the binding rubber strips which I do not find really comfortable.
Don’t worry the scale is faux tortoise no turtles were harmed in the making of this slingshot. :) I put in a picture of the faux tortoise shell so you can see it comes in 3” diameter rods.The SS is in front of shirt pocket in the same photo. I hope you like her but don’t get any ideas she is MINE! : )

CAUTION!!!!!! several cans were harmed in the making of this video!!!! If you are squeamish STOP now do not WATCH!!!!! :)



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The top left photo was edited by AntraXX. See how nice a pro can make an average photo look!!! Thanks AnTraXX :)


#378574 Merry Christmas to Me from Guinness!

Posted by M.J on 24 December 2013 - 07:58 AM

After six months of waiting, I finally got an email from the Guinness World Records people today congratulating me on my official record for most cans hit in a minute with a slingshot :woot: :woot:
Here's what it said on my member page and will presumably say on the website once they get back from holiday :
" The current record for "Slingshot- most cans hit in one minute" is: The most cans hit with a slingshot in one minute is 13 and was achieved by Michael McClure (USA), at the East Coast Slingshot Tournament in Alverton, Pennsylvania, USA on 8 June 2013."
Thanks to everyone who gave support and encouragement, especially those who were at the tournament!


#358185 "The Boy King"

Posted by Can-Opener on 06 November 2013 - 12:18 AM

Hi fellow slingshot enthusiast,
I have been continuing to work on my "Ergo Bone" design. Some time ago a friend of mine was cleaning out his work shop. He came over with a nice slab of 1/2" brass or bronze I do not know for sure which it is. He said he could not stand to take it to the recycle drop off. I was happy to take it off his hands. So I thought about it for a while and decided I would like to make a slingshot that might be like something found in an Egyptian tomb. I did a little research on ancient Egypt plus what I see on the history channel. So I decided to make a gold slingshot with ornamentation on it. The glass element is my interpretation of a scarab beetle. In my glass kiln I fused three layers of different colored glass to make the beetle. There is a matching beetle on the back also. The removable handle scales are ebony. The base is African black wood The scarab beetle was a scared symbol of ancient Egypt. It seemed fitting to make the theme and I could relate to it as sometimes I feel like rolling dung balls around all day! Just Kidding :)
I hope you enjoy it. It is meant to be pleasing to the eye!

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Thanks for looking :)


#348687 Mantis is 300 years old (Updated)

Posted by Bob Fionda on 15 October 2013 - 11:20 AM

A couple of weeks ago Mike (OldSpookAsa, a well-known member of this Forum) sent me a slab of a 300 years old maple. He asked me to make a slingshot from that piece of beautiful wood and I accepted. Here is the result: I named her "Mantis". Lenght cm. 10 - fork width cm. 2- between the forks cm. 3,4 -

I carved her with a knife, a chisel, some rasps and sand-paper up to 2500 grit. I finished with Camellia oil.

Small enough, it has an excellent grip;it is easy to shoot as well as to hide.

Thanks for watching. Bob.

 

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#475243 Experiment with G10...

Posted by toolmantf99 on 26 October 2014 - 03:23 PM

This is my first time working with G10...and man is it some tough stuff!  Can-Opener was right on when he said it kills your tools!  It sands and buffs to a beautiful glossy finish, but is unforgiving if you mess up any sanding steps.

 

This one has a 1/8" brass core with layers of black and white G10 for a 3/4" total thickness.  It also has an additional 1/4" on the fork height from the original design.  I am a big Pitttsburgh Penguins fan and have been wanting to make this colored theme shooter for about two years.  Thanks for looking!

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#389564 Unknown Package

Posted by e~shot on 23 January 2014 - 12:38 AM

An unknown package was waiting for me at home when I returned back, I unwrapped the parcel wondering from whom it was ... WOW!

 

Yes... I was thrilled and lucky enough to have this stunning slingshot with letter "E" crafted.

 

thank you AnTrAxX for your fabulous gift my friend :)

 

Pics from AnTrAxX

 

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My pics.... (don't do any justice for it :( )

 

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Materials used

 

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#384288 No more slippery slingshot!

Posted by Greavous on 08 January 2014 - 09:16 PM

Im putting this in the slingshot mod section because that is what I did, I made my daily driver slingshot better.  I also made my slingshot but that was back in the fall so this would be a modification. 

 

I hope Im not the only one that sometimes drops his slingshot but it happens to me because of my archery background/form sort of thing.  When Im not dropping the thing sometimes I dont grip it the same way every time and I fire off some unexpected tragictrory projectiles.  So in order to find a solution to a few of my shooting problems it only seemed logical to get some traction over a reather smoothly finished slingshot.

 

I decided to add some checkering to my slingshot.  I was fortunate enough to purchace myself a brand new over/under shotgun a few years ago and the stock was had hand cut checkering and it was sharp!  I remember thinking about how pressed checkering (the cheap way) just gave some traction where cut checkering grabbed you!

 

Anyway, please keep in mind I have never done any checkering before.  I just bought a nice set of tools and did a few practice patches before jumping in with both feet.  The slingshot is alum. core with mesquite wood.

 

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this is the back side

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