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#483440 Waste Not, Want Not

Posted by flippinout on 23 November 2014 - 10:54 AM

Recently while cleaning the shop (my wife strongly encouraged I do so) I was contemplating what to do with all of the bits of wood I have been saving from other projects that were too small to make a slingshot but too large to toss or burn.  After running them through the planer, I glued them all up into a slab and began cutting and re-gluing.



There were a tremendous variety of woods composed of bamboo, buginga, rosewood(both Honduran and Bolivian), kingwood, cocobolo, sycamore, maple, purpleheart, walnut(black and new guinea), shedua, antique heart pine, reclaimed american chestnut, dogwood, cherry and probably a few more.


Having not made a Scout slingshot in hardwoods, I decided to make a go at that design.  The core of the slingshot is made from 3mm carbon fiber and it is finished with Liberon finishing oil.  This one was a fun build!



#371281 Let it Bee

Posted by ash on 06 December 2013 - 08:12 PM

I've been learning about bees and wasps lately as they start to accomodate themselves in my bee house. A few of my designs started looking a bit bee-ish, so I decided to name therm Bee, Hornet and Wasp. This is the first prototype of the Bee - Bee P1




The main structure (head, thorax and abdomen?) is 18mm birch plywood picked up off the floor at work. This one was going to be the template, but I changed the design slightly, so I figured I might as well finish this one off to test the shape.




The palm swell section is laminated from Indian rosewood and some kind of spruce from a packing case. Possibly German spruce from a piano crate. There's a sapele spacer and a kauri veneer between the palm swell and the frame.




The whole lot was stained yellow and then sprayed with satin lacquer.




It can shoot looped tubes either OTT or TTF and will take OTT flatbands as well. 




I think this is my favourite boardcut so far and I have a few cunning ideas for it yet. This is another step down the path on my quest for a perfect straight-wrist slingshot.




#203291 Flatband Tips..

Posted by bullseyeben! on 17 July 2012 - 03:33 AM

Gday everyone,
Its often discussed how one makes a good, lasting and powerfull set of flats. Most of us know that light pull bands can be very fast, ammo weight considered; thicker bands shoot heavy ammo faster than thin at same dimensions ie tb blue vs gold. that tapered cuts don't last like straights etc etc..

These things aside I have a few things I always do when cutting a flat rig, as do others I'm sure..so here's a few tips Id like to share, and please give any other ideas if you have any.

1. Always ensure your rotary cutter is Sharp, free of any knicks possibly from contacting a metal ruler when guiding. As knicks in the blade convert to knicks in the bands, that turn into tears in the bands quickly.

2. In relation to the above, I would recommend a aluminium ruler as opposed to steel, preferably with soft rounded edges, to lessen the chance of ruler to blade contact.

3. When making the cut, ensure the cutter is as verticle as possible, as any angle will effectively chamfer or bevel the bands, making the extreme edge of the bands thinner than the bands themself, making them tear much faster. Hope that makes sense..

4. If you cut your own pouches too, use a separate blade.

5. I definetly recommend pouch end tying with the wrap tuck method..and that said, tied off with a lighter or thinner rubber than the bands themself. Ie tb gold bands, tb blue ties..this keeps weight down, and I find less abrasive on the bands.. I cut the tie rubber at 30mm x 5mm, 4 wraps then tuck then 2 wraps, pull through with a saliver dampened string.
Have the bands moderate stretched before commencing this process, and at this moderate stretch, the pouch holes should be similar size.

6. When cutting from a fresh roll of ie tb gold, I take close to 1mm off they're edges, both sides as I've noticed they're factory cutter leaves them infamous knicks mentioned above..

7. Forks must be very smooth, especially when ott tying.. and the first wrap of the ties not too tight..as with pouch end.

8. The heavier the taper, if done, the faster pouch end will wear. Ie: A 25mm fork to 10mm pouch rig will wear at the pouch faster than 10mm straight as the taper stresses the thinner part faster.

9. Try extending your draw.. ie 6 inch bands will usually last a lot less than 9inch, yet speed can be similar but life increased as the bands have the distance to accelerate, with out hard stretching the rubber.

10. Match your ammo wisely to the bands, very light ammo with over powered bands rob life.

I hope this helps some, and please feel free to add to this if I've forgotten anything. :)

#278101 HDPE sheet

Posted by lexlow on 13 April 2013 - 03:36 PM

Hello again, a simple project here this time, compared to the micarter (well sorta).



ok, so for those who have found this tutorial and not the micarta one, i'll repeat a few steps from that one.



HDPE is easy to find, 

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as long as its got the number 2 in the triangle and or it has HDPE (sometimes PEHD) then its good for what we need.

 hdpe melts (not burns or release fumes) at about 180 c.

this stuff can be easily singed at about 220 c i think from experience, although the inside would still be fine. 

step one:

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take your bottle and cut it into pieces roughly 1-2 cm2  and collect. now i'm sure its wrong (knowing me prob by alot) but i think its weighing in at about 1.5grams per cm3 so you can roughly work out how much plastic you will need to collect by working out how big your mould is.


step two:

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putt all your HDPE into a metal bowl and place into an oven. switch oven to 190c and as with the micarta heat for about an hour checking twice and turning the bowl. this stuff is the consistency of toffee peeps, so dont think your going to be poring it anywhere! using a metal rod or butter knife etc pry the HDPE from the bowl and place into your mould.


step three:

HDPE when cooling wants to twist badly as different parts cool quicker, so i made a block moulder that i could dump the melted HDPE in and form it to a rough block and hold it there.

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here is the area for the plastic, it is contained by 2x2 cm wooden slats into a piece of ply with a side left open for a sliding push bar.

step four:

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once the plastic is sitting roughly inside the three sides of the rig, you can push the lid (peice of ply)

 down and squash it then screw in place.

step five:

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use the push side to further squash the HDPE into the mould, and screw that in place.



and then leave to cool for around two hours before taking it out.

 coloured pieces can be added into the mix before heating, or even layers of whole coloured plastic, or...... anything heat proof . anyway, hope that gave someone something to do  :-)miniss02.jpg hdpeham ready.jpg

#229188 Beginner Slingshot Builders Kit

Posted by Hrawk on 28 October 2012 - 10:46 PM

We often get a lot of questions here from newcomers to the sport regarding what they need to get started. I thought I'd put together a quick post for all to see showing just how little an investment is really needed to start making your own quality shooters.

By no way will this be a definitive solution as people have created some awesome shooters with nothing but a small folding pocket knife but I hope some people will find this useful.

They way I see it, the most minimal amount of kit you would need for making board cuts and naturals is as follows:
  • Coping Saw
  • Rasp/s
  • Sandpaper
  • Finish (Optional)

-Coping Saw-

Coping saws are a great option for slingshot making. They are cheap. They can get into the tightest of curves and cut through the hardest of woods (with a bit of patience and elbow grease). The blade can be removed and inserted in a hole for cutting out shapes inside the frame. The blade can also be turned to face any direction for detailed work and ease of cutting. They are available just about anywhere for a small investment. They offer a large enough throat for the biggest of frames yet are capable of turning out even the smallest sized pocket shooter.

Coping Saw @ Harbour Freight $5.99

This particular one comes with a few different blades included, from rough cutting to extremely fine detailed work. I agree that a pruning saw or other hand saw would be better for cutting a natural fork from a tree, this particular saw is more than capable of doing the job.

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Similar in design to a metal file however the teeth are optimised for wood shaping and removal. There are literally hundreds of sizes, styles and tooth patterns available but don't confuse yourself with all the specifics. Your main concern right now is being able to shape the wood to your desired style. Rasps provide a very aggressive cutting action, getting your work done very quickly.

3 Piece Rasp Set @ Harbour Freight $2.99

This great set of rasps is ideal for putting final touches on your projects. The 3/4” flat rasp is designed for general purpose sanding and shaping on flat surfaces. The 7/8” half round rasp is built for flat, concave and convex surfaces. Finally, the 3/8” diameter round rasp is designed for shaving and forming tightly curved wood sections such as finger grooves, pinkie holes and even band grooves..

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I have heard it said time and time again that 90% of any form of woodwork is sanding and yup, it's pretty true. Having used the rasps to cut and mould your wood to shape, you will find the current surface of your project looks a bit ragged and for lack of a better word, crap. This where the sanding begins. Sandpaper is available in different grits, from very coarse to smooth as glass. The lower the grit number, the more aggressive it is at removing material. You will start with a lower grit and progressively move up to achieve the desired finish. After using the rasps you would probably go for a 40 or 80 grit paper, moving on to 120, 240, 360 and sometimes even higher. You will probably find that going to 220/240 is more than satisfactory for a good finish. If you want glassy smoothness, keep sanding :) You want to spend time and make sure that your fork tips are as smooth as possible as this will contribute to band life. Rough forks will wear your bands very quickly. Smooth is good.

Sandpaper is cheap. If you are starting out, grab yourself a couple of sheets of 80, 120 & 220 grit paper.

Sandpaper pack @ Harbour Freight $2.99

This assortment of sandpaper comes with a variety of grits. The assortment includes two sheets of 60 grit, three sheets of 100 grit, three sheets of 150 grit and two sheets of 220 grit aluminum oxide sanding sheets to help you accommodate a variety of jobs! This sandpaper assortment is a great set for any do-it-yourselfer or professional craftsman to smooth metal, finish wood pieces and sand paint away for a clear, clean surface.

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Finishing, oh wow, where do I start. As I mentioned above this can be an optional step in the build however most people like to bring out the best in their choice of wood and give it that bit of extra bling. The options for finishing are endless and mostly come down to personal preference. Here I will list two options that are cheap and easy to do.

The first I will mention is Linseed oil, a personal favourite of mine. Like all the above tools, Linseed oil can be purchased just about anywhere. It is available as a raw or boiled product. Boiled is the preferred option of most as it has a considerably shorted curing (drying) time. Linseed oil can be purchased for only a few dollars. It can be wiped on with a rag/cloth, or your project can be soaked in it for a few hours to a few days. It does take time though, as curing times can be anywhere from a few days to a few weeks to achieve optimum results. It does however do an awesome job of bringing out the beautiful grain and colour in most woods. Linseed oil finish is usually further enhanced by a wax polish to bring out a nice lustre and shine. Expect to pay around $5 for a half litre bottle of boiled Linseed Oil.

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Another option is aerosol based finishes. Once again you have a huge range of options here so I wont go into them all. Probably the most common of these finishes is spray on Polyurethane. Comes in a can just like spray paint and is very easy to apply. Usually you would hang your slingshot up and apply several THIN coats, emphasis on thin. It is very important to ensure that each coat has completely dried before applying the next. For best results it is also best to sand between coats for that super smooth glassy look. Common options here are to use 800 grit sandpaper or even steel wool. Whatever you do, don't try to do it all in one go as you will end up with a thick tacky coat and possibly drip marks. Multiple thin coats is the trick to a great finish. Myself I like to use a spray on marine varnish as this also offers great UV protection against fading. These products also offer the option of a satin, semi gloss or gloss finish. Expect to pay between $5 and $10 for a good spray on finish. One can is usually enough for 2 to 5 frames, depending on number of coats you use.

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Well there you have it. Ignoring the finish for the moment, for an initial outlay of approximately $12 dollars, you are well on your way to building your very own slingshot.

Check out the Templates tab at the top of this forum for some great designs to get you started. Just print them out, glue them to your wood and get started !

If you have found this post helpful, please click the 'Like This' button in the lower right hand side of this post :)

#506539 Pretty Boy Floyd (pic heavy)

Posted by DougDynasty on 11 February 2015 - 02:51 AM

Hey everybody I wanted to post this one to show y'all what I believe  to be my very best work yet. I think this is my best so far. I really hope y'all enjoy it as much as me because all of yall inspire me . I worked really hard on this one and wow does it fit my hand perfect. It's balanced  perfectly and feels amazing to hold. It's curly maple and bicoti with aluminum.  I kniw it's a lit of pics but I hope y'all like it. Thanks! D.D.Screenshot_2015-02-10-21-07-21-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-21-07-59-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-19-15-53-2.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-19-13-51-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-19-10-56-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-19-12-14-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-59-31-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-58-34-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-55-43-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-54-40-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-54-11-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-47-26-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-50-51-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-49-42-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-52-56-1.png Screenshot_2015-02-10-17-57-31-1.png

#413733 My shoes are awesome, but this is a slingshot.

Posted by quarterinmynose on 29 March 2014 - 07:01 AM



Little (Lil'?) Plinker by Dayhiker




G10 core,


Purple heart,

Osage Orange,

Black Walnut,

Some random veneer,

Blue dyed Birch,

Fire wood(some sort of oak I'm pretty sure)


I really love the Little Plinker design, so comfortable and just a great compact size.

I played around a bit with an idea I had for laminating.  I think it worked out pretty well.  

The firewood came from a stack me and Noobshooter were collecting for our Shoot out last December.  I noticed some awesomeness going on and just had to set aside a couple pieces for a slinger.


Let me know what you think, and thanks for looking.


Stay well, and shoot happy!


Open these up in a new tab for a much better look.   :nerd:


Pic-o-Spam-O!  :excl: 

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#381304 Starship- XP class

Posted by flippinout on 31 December 2013 - 02:19 PM

Ever since I made a starship for Blue Skeen a few years back, I have wanted to make another one in a similar style.  Here is what I made for Blue... a clone of his 'Long Tom' design.



Ever since I made that one, I have always wanted to take that design and emulate a pistol I have always admired- The Remington XP-100.




Well, after two years of putting this project on the back burner, I took a day off from my regular responsibilites to create this variant of the 'Long Tom XP-100'.  It is a tack driver to say the least...




The main body of the slingshot is made from SpectraPly.  The forks are 3/8" thick G10.  All of the red material is DymaLux and the buttcap on the handle is honduran rosewood burl and carbon fiber accents on the arm rest.


This slingshot is NOT for sale.


Squirrels... BEWARE!!


#505568 Just for Leeeeee! Black Sheep Rehabilitation Program.

Posted by Lee Silva on 08 February 2015 - 02:46 AM

a few hot new mods - 8.jpg a few hot new mods - 7.jpg


Three cheers for "Dayhiker"!!!


 I've been having so much fun designing around the basic "Lil Plinker" Profile for a few months now. A classic shape that shoots brilliantly straight off the bandsaw, has proven it'self to be a perfect starting point for all sorts of fantastic 3-D "Mods"!!!! 

This is one of my favorites. Still very much the "Lil Plinker", only now with a gentle ergonomic "re-curve" as well as a teardrop shaped , polymorph "palm swell", and my "otter " fork tips. All three come together quite well to complement an already fabulous catapult..In this very special case, I could not be more pleased.... cause I'm actually allowing myself to keep this puppy!!! 

I'll post a video with more details later on today.

Have a safe weekend, everybody! 

#503735 The A.N.T.

Posted by flicks on 01 February 2015 - 08:05 AM

Hello slingshot enthusiasts!


I've just finished a little slingshot puzzle. ;)  6 layers of 2 mm carbon fiber prepreg plates, finished with 6 layers of clear coat. The result is a full carbon fiber folder with integrated clips. The handle is locked in the opened position.


Basically it is a slightly modified 80% sized NightTrain shape. It is designed to fit in an Altoid can, hence the name - Altoid-Night-Train


I hope you like it! Thanks for watching!






#304774 An Orange Giant

Posted by Quercusuber on 14 June 2013 - 07:02 PM

Hello SlingshotForum Friends!!!!

Some months ago, I did a trade with the member and friend Beanflip. Included in the deal, besides some good quality latex and a slingshot made by him, came also a HUGE fork of Osage Orange (Maclura pomifera) for me to carve.

Well, "carve" isn't the appropriate word to use for what happened with this wood piece ...I had to put aside my carving knife and get to work with my little axe. Oh boy!! It was very hard, I tell ya!!! :D

This wood is one of the hardest I've worked until now. Also, the amount of sandpaper that I've spent on this one was the triple of what I normally use. To be honest, sandpaper did a great share of the work.

Well, but in the end, in spite of his massive frame body, I think it turned out a very functional shooter, with a nice design for sideways thumb-support shooting style.

And the grain on this species is absolutely WILD!!! Finished with olive oil and shellac.

Many thanks to you, Beanflip, for such a quality gift!!! I feel I owe you one!!! ;)

Thanks for watching!!!







#403225 "Time Traveler" a Slingshot from the future

Posted by Can-Opener on 26 February 2014 - 09:40 AM

Hi fellow Slingshot enthusiast,
Here is my fantasy Slinshot. I wanted to make a slingshot that looked like something from the future. I wanted it to be very functional. I was thinking of my German friend who can not have wrist brace slingshots so I wanted to push it out as far as I could without wrist brace. I wanted a thick handle because it is more comfortable. I also prefer remove-able scales so I can fix or replace damaged scales,or change them to fit my mood. I like low fork tips and these are definitely low down. I like the platform because it give a reference to line up the bands with when shooting. I also get comfort from having my hand protected. With this design I can add taller fork tips if I like and I already have an extended model with a wrist brace about half done. It could be deemed a mini starship if you please. This frame is made from aluminum and the handle scales are elm burl I stabilized with the cactus juice. All the screws are stainless steel. I am very pleased with the way it looks and shoots. I hope you enjoy looking :)

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Posted by DougDynasty on 31 December 2014 - 01:59 AM

Hey guys this is my first one back, my oldest son has been in a horrible health situation and after the stress and worry of going from specialist to specialist,  hospital to hospital, we finally got him healthy Thank God, and I'm just now getting caught up and getting around to getting on here with my wonderful slingshot family. This is the first time I've logged on since first week of october and I sure have missed all of yall. I wanted to try something new since I've been gone awhile, this is my first time to do pins. Learned alot. I hate hate hate that I missed the Christmas trade. I really really have missed u all and this place. This place means alot to me. Anyways this is Masur Birch wood, it only grows in Finland and northern Russia from what I was told. And paper micarta I got from another forum member (haven't had time to ask him if I can mention his name) , with aluminum core and aluminum pins with copper lanyard hole. I wanted to make something special since I haven't been on since the first week of october. It's sanded to 2000g. Just finished it today so haven't Shot it yet but it feels amazing in the hand. Both sides are identical so it might be hard to tell the front from the back side lol. I hope u guys enjoy it. I worked really hard on it. Glad to be back on here with u guys. What y'all think?Screenshot_2014-12-31-00-31-26-1.png Screenshot_2014-12-31-00-57-01.png Screenshot_2014-12-31-00-56-40.png Screenshot_2014-12-31-00-57-18.png Screenshot_2014-12-31-00-56-48.png Screenshot_2014-12-31-00-58-08.png Screenshot_2014-12-31-00-59-50.png Screenshot_2014-12-31-00-59-58.png Screenshot_2014-12-31-01-00-08.png Screenshot_2014-12-30-23-09-08-1.png

#475100 The Night Train - blink blink, bye bye

Posted by flicks on 26 October 2014 - 08:21 AM

Hello slingshot enthusiasts!

Lately, I've played around with a black 20mm HDPE board and that is the result - the Night Train.

I wanted to get rid of the typical poly look, so I've sanded and flamed it for a matte, charcoal black surface. My aim was not to get a even and smooth surface, but something that looks more like forged black steel with scars and marks.


I've added one piece integrated clips and a build-in allen screw tool. The steel parts are blue flamed to match the dark look of the frame.

Not a shiny and blinky one, but a tough slingshot, which can take rough treatment or a fork hit without without problems.


I hope you like it.





#413951 "The Vision" a wearable slingshot : )

Posted by Can-Opener on 29 March 2014 - 07:19 PM

Hi guys,
Here is my extended fork wearable arm brace slingshot. The arm brace was very challenging to figure out and held up the project a bit. I am very pleased with the results. With the slingshot in hand you can twist your wrist and be in and out of the brace in seconds. If you are wondering how I bent the brace the answer is I did not bend anything I will leave it at that for a bit. The tricky part for the brace is it is adjusted to fit the arm so nicely that it needs no padding. After I play with it a bit it is warm and inviting to hold. It is made to fit me and I think any one who makes this style will quickly understand it has to be fit to the user.

Here is field change without tools band clips!!!!The clamp knobs are brass. The handle scales are stabilized boxelder burl. It is a very accurate shooter!!!! It is hard to fit in my pocket. :) Perhaps a sling! :)

I hope you all armbrace this concept! It will be very nice on many frame styles. :)

I hope you are entertained for a while!!! :) Thanks for looking!!!! :)

Mother ship 1.jpg Mother Ship 2.jpg Mother Ship 3.jpg Mother Ship 4.jpg Mother Ship 5.jpg Mother Ship 6.jpg Mother Ship 7.jpg Mother Ship 8.jpg Mother Ship 9.jpg Mother Ship10.jpg

#296141 A Few of my Favorite Things

Posted by flippinout on 23 May 2013 - 10:44 AM

I have a favorite knife that I carry nearly everyday.  Good steel, compact size, made to fit my hand.  I love it.


I have a favorite natural slingshot.  It has taken more squirrels than I can count, fits my hand perfect and I love it.




So the next logical step is to fuse the two into one:




The blade is held within the forks with neodynium magnets.  The kangaroo hide lanyard locks everything in place for solid shooting.  The core of the slingshot is comprised of three layers of canvas and linen micarta.  The faces are osage orange with purpleheart spacers.  The bolsters are made from G10 and vulcanized fiber.  This was a personal challenge and a concept that had been on the drawing board for a few years.  It was one of the more challenging builds I have undertaken.


Stay tuned for part two when I build one with a damascus blade made by Lee Silva of Black Sheep Forge!!


.... and don't ask if it is for sale, this one will be passed down to the grandchildren some day.

#494668 One for me

Posted by Simple Shot on 31 December 2014 - 04:06 PM

Looking back on 2014, I shot the Scout most of the time and have not made a slingshot for myself in a long time.  So, I made a Scout variant just for me and my shooting preferences.

A few years back Rayshot gave me a chunk of carbon fiber.   I picked up some material at a knife show made from volcanic ash, metal dust and resins- can't recall the products name, but it was hiding in a corner of the shop, lost for a few years.  A sheet of CTek was waiting for the right project and thus was born my new slingshot.  I started it a few days before Christmas and have been working a bit everyday since.  I remember now why that chunk of carbon fiber has been around for so long... terrible stuff to work with- even with good dust collection.  But the result is fantastic.  It shoots just as good as it looks and I am looking forward to the fun it will provide during 2015.


This slingshot is not for sale

#483452 Metrograde Flipped Out

Posted by flippinout on 23 November 2014 - 11:14 AM

A while back I received a Metrograde core in a trade.  I finally got around to scaling it up with bloodwood, linen micarta, and Ctek.  Setup with light loops, this is a dandy little shooter.  Thanks for a great design Metrograde!



#373533 Aluminum Caymanite Slinger

Posted by Dr J on 12 December 2013 - 04:58 PM

Many moons ago I did a trade with Trax, he sent me two aluminum  forks, I sent him two large slabs of Caymanite. The Aluminum was not finished as shown in the photo below. I could not decide how to finish them, however, the silient Santa thread gave me an idea.
I learned a lot about working with Aluminum, it is soft and scratches easily. Polish completely before putting on the scales. The next one will have a florentine finish which would not show scratches  as easily. I am not 100 % pleased with my effort but it is passable.
It is easily the most balanced SS frame I have held to date. Comments welcome!

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#240734 As Tie, Bands Or Tubes "style Chepo69"

Posted by Chepo69 on 12 December 2012 - 12:19 AM

4ΒΊ block images

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Hrawk thank you very much!

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